EP3078286A1 - Verfahren zur herstellung eines nähmusters - Google Patents

Verfahren zur herstellung eines nähmusters Download PDF

Info

Publication number
EP3078286A1
EP3078286A1 EP16164442.2A EP16164442A EP3078286A1 EP 3078286 A1 EP3078286 A1 EP 3078286A1 EP 16164442 A EP16164442 A EP 16164442A EP 3078286 A1 EP3078286 A1 EP 3078286A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
point
segment
value
sector
equal
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP16164442.2A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Enrico Baittiner
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Individual
Original Assignee
Individual
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Individual filed Critical Individual
Publication of EP3078286A1 publication Critical patent/EP3078286A1/de
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

Links

Images

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
    • A41H3/04—Making patterns by modelling on the human body
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D1/00—Garments
    • A41D1/22—Clothing specially adapted for women, not otherwise provided for
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D1/00—Garments
    • A41D1/02—Jackets
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/10—Sleeves; Armholes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H1/00—Measuring aids or methods
    • A41H1/02—Devices for taking measurements on the human body

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a method for making a sewing pattern, in particular a sewing pattern for women's outerwear.
  • Sewing patterns usually made of tissue paper, which are firstly drawn and then cut out, are produced to make garments, e.g. outerwear, to measure.
  • the sewing pattern is drawn on the basis of a given number of measurements of parts of the person's body.
  • the drawing of the sewing pattern for women's garments includes at least one triangular shaped zone which, once cut, defines a dart in order to provide three-dimensionality and thus volume for the breasts.
  • the conventional sewing patterns, and thus the outerwear which result therefrom, are made on the basis of some standard measurements or are taken on a woman, typically a size 40, who is employed as a model. Sizes are then developed on a computer or by drawing by hand to make the subsequent size, i.e. sizes 42, 44, 46, 48, 50, etc. Therefore, the outerwear cannot always adequately fit a woman.
  • the conventional methods for making a sewing pattern are burdensome and laborious; indeed, such methods imply many correction steps, for example aimed at correcting posture or plumb line faults which are performed on the woman employed as a model, which imply a lot of work when the outerwear has already been made.
  • a known method for making a sewing pattern is described in US 4 899 448 A .
  • the present invention thus achieves at least one of these objects by providing a method, according to claim 1, for making a sewing pattern on the basis of measurements of parts of the body of a person, the sewing pattern being divided into a first sector, named “chest sector”, a second sector, named “armhole sector” and a third sector, named “back sector”, wherein a "V"-shaped zone is provided in the first sector, wherein an "L”-square is provided, with a first and a second arm forming the "L”, wherein at least the first arm is graduated on a scale in centimeters or millimeters, wherein the following steps are included:
  • the method is particularly adapted to make a sewing pattern for outerwear, from which a bodice, a shirt, a jacket or a coat can be made, for example.
  • the method of the invention may include one or more steps in which the fit is checked so that possible corrections to the finished outerwear are minimized.
  • the method according to the invention includes making the width of the breast dart on the basis of a measurement taken with an "L"-shaped square, so as to provide outerwear which better fits the physical features of a woman, in particular her breast size.
  • all the segments such as for example AB, AC and the like, should be understood as two points of a line, e.g. between points A and B, A and C etc.
  • all the measurements or lengths indicated by letter M and respective subscript are measured according to the decimal metric system, preferably in cm or in mm. It is worth noting that using a measurement system for the described values different from the decimal metric system is not beyond the scope of the present invention.
  • the sewing pattern is divided into three sectors, in particular a first sector 1, named “chest sector”, a second sector 2, named “armhole sector” and a third sector 3, named “back sector”.
  • the second sector 2 is arranged between the first sector 1 and the third sector 3.
  • the first sector 1 comprises a "V"-shaped zone, indicated by reference numeral 10, defined by two consecutive segments, and in particular by a segment LF and another segment FE.
  • the sewing pattern may be cut along such segments LE and FE to make a dart for accommodating the size of the breasts.
  • the method includes measuring the parts of a body of a person, in particular a woman, in order to make a sewing pattern for a woman.
  • the length of the breast M 7 is measured from the upper part of the shoulder down to the breast level, in particular to the nipple.
  • the length the breast may be measured with a tailor's measuring tape by resting one end of the measuring tape on the upper part of the shoulder and extending it to the nipple with an inclination with respect to the vertical which will depend on the breast size.
  • the end of the measuring tape is arranged on the upper part of the shoulder at a distance from the neck equal to M 1 /12, i.e. V 1 .
  • the method also includes the inclination ⁇ of a shoulder with respect to the horizontal, and such a measurement is preferably measured in degrees.
  • the method also includes measuring a length M 20 , or reference length, by means of an "L"-square 4.
  • the "L"-square 4 has a first arm 5 and a second arm 6 forming the "L", and at least the first arm 5 is graduated by means of a plurality of graduation notches which have increasing values, according to a scale in centimeters or millimeters, starting from the cross point between the first arm 5 and the second arm 6.
  • the graduation starts from a predetermined distance, for example 10 cm.
  • the first graduation notch is thus labeled with number 5, and the graduation pitch is 1 cm between the labeled notches with 0.5 increments. This graduation avoids needing to divide the length M 20 by two in the step of the method which will be described below.
  • the length M 20 is measured by resting the square 4 on the person, so that the first arm 5 touches an upper part of the shoulder and that the second arm 6 touches the breast corresponding to the shoulder, e.g. for example a left shoulder with the left breast.
  • the second arm 6 is arranged vertically, touches the most protruding point of the breast with respect to the chest, and is arranged perpendicularly to the ground (not inclined ground).
  • the length M 20 is defined by the distance between the vertical straight line passing through the most protruding point of the breast and the resting point of the first arm 5 on the upper part of the shoulder.
  • the square 4 is provided with a spirit level 7 to check the correct positioning of the square 4 itself during the measurement.
  • the resting point of the first arm 5 on the upper part of the shoulder is at the joint point between shoulder and neck.
  • Such measurements are used to calculate some values which are used to draw the sewing pattern.
  • the method includes calculating:
  • the method includes making the following geometric construction:
  • the first point E, the second point F and the third point L define the "V"-shaped zone of the first sector.
  • the geometric shape of such a "V"-shaped sector is defined on the basis of M 20 , which was previously measured with the "L"-square.
  • the rear armhole level M 11 can be measured, for example, as the distance between the upper part of the shoulder and the corresponding armpit.
  • the method allows determining the breast dart width, which is an important parameter for making the outerwear. Furthermore, the method advantageously includes using the chest dart width to make the sewing pattern, as will be described below.
  • Such a checking operation is advantageous because it is performed already during the creation of the sewing pattern, and thus allows to minimize any changes to the finished outerwear.
  • the invention further provides an optimal measurement of the width of the first sector 1.
  • the invention further provides an optimal measurement for the width of the second sector 2.
  • the circumference of the arm M 6 is taken in a position between the elbow and the corresponding shoulder, preferably the most protruding part (or maximum circumference) in such a zone.
  • a step of checking the total length Ltot of the sewing pattern is included.
  • T 6 which may be positive or negative, is equally divided between L 1 , L 2 and L 3 .
  • the back sector also has a "V"-shaped zone.
  • the tolerance values T 1 , T 2 , T 5 and T 7 refer to the fit of the half of the rear shoulder width, of the armhole level, of the arm circumference and of the half-circumference of the height of the breasts, respectively. Such tolerance values may preferably vary as follows:
  • the value V 1 is determined by measuring the circumference of the neck M 30 .
  • V1 M 30 /5 + 1 cm.
  • all the steps of the method are the same as those described above.
  • an end of the measuring tape is preferably arranged at a distance from the neck equal to (M 30 /5) +1 cm, i.e. V 1 .

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Corsets Or Brassieres (AREA)
EP16164442.2A 2015-04-08 2016-04-08 Verfahren zur herstellung eines nähmusters Withdrawn EP3078286A1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
ITRM20150139 2015-04-08

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP3078286A1 true EP3078286A1 (de) 2016-10-12

Family

ID=53053025

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP16164442.2A Withdrawn EP3078286A1 (de) 2015-04-08 2016-04-08 Verfahren zur herstellung eines nähmusters

Country Status (1)

Country Link
EP (1) EP3078286A1 (de)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN108542029A (zh) * 2018-04-04 2018-09-18 西京学院 一种女装原型基础样板制图方法

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB320080A (en) * 1928-06-28 1929-09-30 Alfred Jacob Adjustable patterns for tailoring to measure
US4899448A (en) 1988-05-16 1990-02-13 Huang Ding S Basic formula for active sketch pattern drawing in upper body tailoring
DE10136074A1 (de) * 2001-07-25 2003-02-20 Annegret Brinkmann-Stieler Gradierungsverfahren
CN103284373A (zh) * 2013-05-09 2013-09-11 宁波大学 红帮轴线新型配袖方法

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB320080A (en) * 1928-06-28 1929-09-30 Alfred Jacob Adjustable patterns for tailoring to measure
US4899448A (en) 1988-05-16 1990-02-13 Huang Ding S Basic formula for active sketch pattern drawing in upper body tailoring
DE10136074A1 (de) * 2001-07-25 2003-02-20 Annegret Brinkmann-Stieler Gradierungsverfahren
CN103284373A (zh) * 2013-05-09 2013-09-11 宁波大学 红帮轴线新型配袖方法

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN108542029A (zh) * 2018-04-04 2018-09-18 西京学院 一种女装原型基础样板制图方法

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
CN110986788A (zh) 一种基于三维点云牲畜表型体尺数据的自动测量方法
CN107481276B (zh) 一种三维医学图像中标记点序列的自动识别方法
US8832955B2 (en) Bra size measuring tape
US6467180B1 (en) Measuring tape for determining bra size
CN110991233B (zh) 指针式压力表的自动读数方法
CN110287887A (zh) 一种刻度识别方法、装置及计算机存储介质
CN107218909A (zh) 一种在发动机叶片上贴应变片的方法
EP3078286A1 (de) Verfahren zur herstellung eines nähmusters
CN105258601B (zh) 孔肩距测量结构及孔肩距测量方法
Schofield et al. Defining and testing the assumptions used in current apparel grading practice
WO2013055223A1 (en) Method for making sewing patterns
CN115014241B (zh) 一种三坐标测轮廓的检测系统及方法
US20230354939A1 (en) Method of Brassiere Size Determination by Direct Measurement of Breast Volume and Chest Circumference Cross-Referenced to Manufactured Bra Cup Volume and Band Length
CN106991227B (zh) 服装纸样度尺系统及方法
CN105953733B (zh) 布料缩率检测装置及方法
US1763091A (en) Tailor's square
CN110274919A (zh) 基于Faster R-CNN的裁片花纹参数测量方法
CN105937907A (zh) 一种测量船体受遮挡处坐标位置的辅助工具以及其测量方法
CN106403783A (zh) 测量外圆曲率半径的直角标尺及测量方法
CN210581159U (zh) 一种快速推算绘制服装上衣各松量原型的模板
US2429015A (en) Buttonhole gauge
CN110672014B (zh) 一种衣服尺寸测量方法
CN113340179B (zh) 基准尺、基准尺的制作方法以及基准尺的使用方法
US711611A (en) Measuring and drafting device for garments.
CN103610253B (zh) 服装胸肩差的xe原数裁剪法

Legal Events

Date Code Title Description
PUAI Public reference made under article 153(3) epc to a published international application that has entered the european phase

Free format text: ORIGINAL CODE: 0009012

AK Designated contracting states

Kind code of ref document: A1

Designated state(s): AL AT BE BG CH CY CZ DE DK EE ES FI FR GB GR HR HU IE IS IT LI LT LU LV MC MK MT NL NO PL PT RO RS SE SI SK SM TR

AX Request for extension of the european patent

Extension state: BA ME

STAA Information on the status of an ep patent application or granted ep patent

Free format text: STATUS: THE APPLICATION IS DEEMED TO BE WITHDRAWN

18D Application deemed to be withdrawn

Effective date: 20170413