EP3042583A1 - Crimp-System für einen Uhr- oder Schmuckartikel, das ein Gelenk umfasst - Google Patents

Crimp-System für einen Uhr- oder Schmuckartikel, das ein Gelenk umfasst Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3042583A1
EP3042583A1 EP15150385.1A EP15150385A EP3042583A1 EP 3042583 A1 EP3042583 A1 EP 3042583A1 EP 15150385 A EP15150385 A EP 15150385A EP 3042583 A1 EP3042583 A1 EP 3042583A1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
crimping
support
proximal
distal
article
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP15150385.1A
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English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP3042583B1 (de
Inventor
Gabriel Chevallier
Davy Perrin
Romain MOYSE
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Cartier International AG
Original Assignee
Cartier International AG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
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Publication date
Application filed by Cartier International AG filed Critical Cartier International AG
Priority to EP15150385.1A priority Critical patent/EP3042583B1/de
Publication of EP3042583A1 publication Critical patent/EP3042583A1/de
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP3042583B1 publication Critical patent/EP3042583B1/de
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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/02—Settings for holding gems or the like, e.g. for ornaments or decorations
    • A44C17/0275—Settings for holding gems or the like, e.g. for ornaments or decorations in an oscillating way
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
    • G04B47/00—Time-pieces combined with other articles which do not interfere with the running or the time-keeping of the time-piece
    • G04B47/04—Time-pieces combined with other articles which do not interfere with the running or the time-keeping of the time-piece with attached ornaments or amusement apparatus
    • G04B47/042—Fastening of jewels and the like

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a crimping system for a timepiece or jewelery in which a gemstone is mounted to give a visual effect of vibration of the stone.
  • the present invention also relates to a watch face and a timepiece or jewelery including such a crimping system.
  • crimping systems allow to mount one or more precious stones to a support.
  • the stone When the stone is fixedly mounted on the support, it is difficult to see the light reflected through the different facets of the stone since the movements of the stone are very small.
  • Such an arrangement is therefore not optimal when looking for a certain animation effect.
  • crimping systems include spring elements or optical means to produce an animation effect.
  • a jewelery item has diamonds being illuminated with an illumination source.
  • a controller controls the illumination source so as to vary the intensity of the light emitted by the source, thus making it possible to better highlight the optical effects of the diamond.
  • it is often undesirable to use electronic devices in timepieces or high-end jewelry.
  • the document EP2510824 discloses a jewelery article comprising a precious stone fixed in a kitten mounted on a pivotal element made of plastic or elastomer. Although the whole kitten stone can move, its movement on the pivot element does not give a visual effect of vibration of the stone.
  • the utility model RU100367U describes a jewelery item comprising a gemstone set in a washer-shaped kitten, this set of stone-kitten is bonded to a base of the article by a cylindrical spring.
  • the vibration of the stone mounted on the spring causes a refraction effect of the light.
  • Fixing the ends of the spring to the kitten and the base is however complicated and delicate.
  • small springs which are required in the case of small stones, they may be excessively deformed when the stone moves from its original position, thereby disturbing the vibration movement of the stone and therefore the aesthetics of the room.
  • the dimensioning of the spring so as to obtain the desired visual effect makes it fragile and the spring can also be irreversibly deformed by shocks.
  • the patent application WO2012 / 115458 discloses a jewelery article comprising a ring-shaped carrier having a hollow sector in which a kitten is mounted by means of a spiral or conical spring.
  • the ends of the spring are fixed in grooves in the support and in the kitten respectively, and the kitten is oscillated under the effect of external excitations on the support.
  • a pin is mounted through the upper part of the kitten, each end of the pin being housed in the support in a plane parallel to the plane of the spring (the spring being attached to a lower part of the kitten) .
  • the pin is used to prevent the separation of the kitten and the support in case of major shocks.
  • the lower part of the kitten can only vibrate in a direction perpendicular to the pin in the plane of the spring, and the upper part of the kitten remains effectively secured to the support.
  • An object of the present invention is to provide a crimping system for a timepiece or jewelery free of limitations of the prior art known.
  • Another object of the invention is to obtain a crimping system having a much easier and reliable assembly of the stone in comparison with known systems, and being better adapted to the use of small stones.
  • a crimping system comprising: a crimping support; a gemstone mounted in or on the crimping support; an elastic member attached to the crimping support so as to flexibly connect the crimping support to said article; the crimping system further comprising a proximal member attached to the crimping support and extending distally from the crimping support; a distal member attached to the article and extending proximally from the article; the proximal member and the distal member cooperating in an articulated manner with respect to the elastic member so that the crimping support can oscillate about the axis of symmetry.
  • the present invention also relates to a watch or jewelery article comprising said crimping system.
  • FIGS. figures 1 and 2 A crimping system 1 for a timepiece 6 or jewelery is illustrated in FIGS. figures 1 and 2 according to one embodiment.
  • the crimping system 1 comprises a crimping support 3, or kitten, in which is mounted a gemstone 2, such as a diamond, ruby, sapphire or emerald.
  • a gemstone means at least one gemstone 2, the support 3 being able to support a plurality of precious stones 2.
  • the expression “gemstone” can also include any type of stone, such as fine stones.
  • An elastic element 5 fixed to the crimping support 3 flexibly connects the crimping support 3 to the article 6. The elastic element 5 extends axially between the crimping support 3 and the article 6.
  • the crimping system 1 comprises a proximal element 13 fixed to the crimping support 3 and extending distally from the crimping support 3.
  • a distal element 17 is attached to the article 6 and extends proximally from the article 6
  • the proximal member 13 and the distal member 17 cooperate in an articulated manner relative to one another by means of the elastic member 5 so that the crimping holder 3 can oscillate by relative to an axis of symmetry 15 substantially parallel (or even in this embodiment) to the proximal elements 13 and distal 17 when the crimping system 1 does not vibrate.
  • the stone 2 can oscillate or vibrate on the elastic member 5 following a movement of the article 6 (that is, so that the crimping support, and thus the stone, can oscillate or vibrate on the elastic element 5 following a movement of the article 6).
  • the distal element 17 remains fixed, while the elastic element 5 and the proximal element 13 flex under the effect of the acceleration of the mass of the stone 2 and the crimping support 3.
  • the stiffness of the elastic element 5, the mass of the stone 2 and the crimping support 3, and the intensity of the shock are the main factors defining the amplitude of the vibrations (or oscillations) of the stone 2.
  • the oscillation of the stone 2 is in a radial movement with respect to an axis of symmetry 15 and an axial movement by compared to this same axis 15.
  • the elastic member 5 comprises a coil spring 50 (hereinafter helical spring).
  • the helical spring 50 is of cylindrical section.
  • the proximal member 13 is inserted through one end of the coil spring 50 in the shape of a tube, and the distal member 17 is inserted through the other end of the coil spring 50.
  • at least one portion of the proximal element 13 and the distal member 17 is housed in the coil spring 50.
  • the proximal element 13 and the distal element 17 can be entirely housed in the coil spring 50.
  • the proximal element 13 and the distal element 17 are more rigid than the coil spring 50.
  • the proximal element 13 and the distal element 17 have a stiffness K 2 greater than the stiffness K 1 of the spring 50. Therefore, when the crimping system 1 is vibrated, the coil spring 50 allows the crimping support 3 and the stone 2 to oscillate about the axis of symmetry 15, the proximal 13 and distal 17 elements. ensuring the mechanical strength of the crimping support 3 and the attachment to the article 6, respectively.
  • the proximal element 13 and the distal element 17 can be housed in the coil spring 50 so that the distal end 32 of the proximal element 13 mechanically contacts the proximal end 33 of the distal element 17, as illustrated in the figure 1 .
  • the distal end 32 of the proximal element 13 as well as the proximal end 33 of the distal element 17 may comprise a convex articular surface 34, for example having a substantially hemispherical shape, so as to facilitate the pivoting of the element proximal 13 with respect to the distal member 17.
  • the crimping system 1 As the crimping system 1 is intended for a timepiece 6 or jewelry, it must be arranged to be able to create an animation, for example on a watch dial, based on a vibration of the stone. In other words, the crimping system 1 must be configured so that the vibration of the stone is visible. The vibration must also be durable in time and in its environment of use. On the other hand, so as to accommodate the crimping system 1, for example, between the dial and the ice of the watch, on a bezel, a jewel, its size must be minimal and the dimensions of the crimping system 1 must be reduced.
  • the vibration of the stone 2, in an axial and / or radial movement with respect to the axis of symmetry 15, will be visible in the case where the oscillation frequency thereof is adapted to the retinal persistence.
  • This oscillation frequency is preferably between 1 Hz and 30 Hz.
  • the elastic element 5 preferably has a stiffness between 1.2x10 -5 N / m and 1.4x10 +1 N / m and the combined mass of the crimping support 3 and the gemstone 2 is preferably between 3x10 -4 g and 4x10 -1 g.
  • the crimping support 3 can thus oscillate in axial and / or radial movement with respect to an axis of symmetry 15, following a movement of the article 6, with an oscillation frequency of between 1 Hz and 30 Hz.
  • the combined mass M of the crimping support 3 and the gemstone 2 is between 1x10 -3 g and 1x10 -1 g, and the stiffness K of the elastic element 5 is between 3.9x10 -5 N / m and 3.6 N / m.
  • the combined mass M of the crimping support 3 and the gemstone 2 is between 1x10 -2 g and 5x10 -2 g, and the stiffness K of the elastic element 5 is between 3.9x10 -4 N / m and 1.8 N / m.
  • the crimping support 3 can oscillate according to an axial and / or radial movement, following a movement of the article 6, with an oscillation frequency of between 10 Hz and 20 Hz relative to the axis of symmetry 15, the combined mass M of the crimping support 3 and the gemstone 2 is between 1x10 -2 g and 5x10 -2 g, and the stiffness K of the elastic element 5 is included between 3.9x10 -2 N / m and 7.9x10 -1 N / m.
  • the proximal element 13 and the distal element 17 are housed in the coil spring 50 so that the distal end 32 of the proximal element 13 is distant from the proximal end 33 of the element
  • a portion of the coil spring 50 between the proximal 13 and distal 17 elements may be flexed with respect to the axis of symmetry 15 more easily and with greater amplitude than when the proximal 13 and distal elements 17 are in contact.
  • the further apart the distal 32 and proximal 33 ends the more easily the helical spring 50 can be flexed with respect to the axis of symmetry 15 and with greater amplitude.
  • the helical spring 50 may comprise contiguous or non-contiguous turns.
EP15150385.1A 2015-01-07 2015-01-07 Crimp-System für einen Uhr- oder Schmuckartikel, das ein Gelenk umfasst Active EP3042583B1 (de)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP15150385.1A EP3042583B1 (de) 2015-01-07 2015-01-07 Crimp-System für einen Uhr- oder Schmuckartikel, das ein Gelenk umfasst

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP15150385.1A EP3042583B1 (de) 2015-01-07 2015-01-07 Crimp-System für einen Uhr- oder Schmuckartikel, das ein Gelenk umfasst

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP3042583A1 true EP3042583A1 (de) 2016-07-13
EP3042583B1 EP3042583B1 (de) 2018-10-03

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EP15150385.1A Active EP3042583B1 (de) 2015-01-07 2015-01-07 Crimp-System für einen Uhr- oder Schmuckartikel, das ein Gelenk umfasst

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EP (1) EP3042583B1 (de)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN107928031A (zh) * 2017-11-13 2018-04-20 武汉地质资源环境工业技术研究院有限公司 一种能多角度展示镶嵌品的戒托

Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US6433483B1 (en) 1997-11-12 2002-08-13 Scintillate Limited Jewellery illumination
CN201403636Y (zh) * 2009-04-25 2010-02-17 陶章菊 八围一旋转宝石首饰
JP2010046218A (ja) * 2008-08-20 2010-03-04 Inose Hoseki Kk 揺動装身具
RU100367U1 (ru) 2010-07-13 2010-12-20 Общество с ограниченной ответственностью "ЭПЛ Ювелир" Ювелирное изделие с драгоценными и полудрагоценными камнями
WO2012115458A2 (ko) 2011-02-25 2012-08-30 Kim Chang Hyun 유동성 난집을 구비한 보석 난집 조립체
EP2510824A1 (de) 2011-04-15 2012-10-17 Walter Weinbeck Fassung für einen Schmuckstein

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US6433483B1 (en) 1997-11-12 2002-08-13 Scintillate Limited Jewellery illumination
JP2010046218A (ja) * 2008-08-20 2010-03-04 Inose Hoseki Kk 揺動装身具
CN201403636Y (zh) * 2009-04-25 2010-02-17 陶章菊 八围一旋转宝石首饰
RU100367U1 (ru) 2010-07-13 2010-12-20 Общество с ограниченной ответственностью "ЭПЛ Ювелир" Ювелирное изделие с драгоценными и полудрагоценными камнями
WO2012115458A2 (ko) 2011-02-25 2012-08-30 Kim Chang Hyun 유동성 난집을 구비한 보석 난집 조립체
EP2510824A1 (de) 2011-04-15 2012-10-17 Walter Weinbeck Fassung für einen Schmuckstein

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN107928031A (zh) * 2017-11-13 2018-04-20 武汉地质资源环境工业技术研究院有限公司 一种能多角度展示镶嵌品的戒托

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