EP2862562A1 - Cosmetic or dermatological composition for lightening and for preventing skin blemishes - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions containing a combination of at least one of the active substances listed under a) and at least one of the substances listed under b): a) Extract from Quassia Amara; b) saturated or unsaturated, linear (C9 to C18) dicarboxylic acid, in particular 8-hexadecene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid and / or 7-tetradecene-1, 14-dicarboxylic acid and / or 9-octadecene-1,18-dicarboxylic acid and / or 6-dodecene-1,12-dicarboxylic acid and / or 5-decene-1,10-dicarboxylic acid and / or decanedioic acid (sebacic acid) and / or nonanedioic acid (azelaic acid), very particularly preferably 8-hexadecene-1,16- dicarboxylic acid. are suitable for cosmetic and topical dermatological skin whitening or to prevent tanning of the skin, in particular the skin tanning caused by UV radiation, as well as for lightening age spots or freckles.

Description

The present invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological compositions for the cosmetic and topical dermatological skin whitening or for the prevention of tanning of the skin, in particular the skin tanning caused by UV radiation, and for the lightening of age spots or freckles. The present invention further relates to the use of these agents and methods using these agents.

The pigmentation of the skin is carried out by melanocytes, which are found in the lowest layer of the epidermis in addition to the basal cells as either isolated or frequently occurring pigment-forming cells depending on the skin type. Melanocytes contain melanosomes in which melanin is formed. Through various chemical and / or physical influences, in particular by UV radiation, melanin is increasingly formed. This is transported via the keratinocytes into the corneocytes (horny layer) and leads to a brownish to brown-black skin color. Melanin is formed as the final stage of an oxidative process in which tyrosine is converted by means of the enzyme tyrosinase via several intermediates to the brown to brown-black eumelanins (DHICA and DHI melanin) or with the involvement of sulfur-containing compounds to the reddish phaeomelanin. Melanin formation - and thus skin color - is subject to external influences and, in addition to desirable effects ("healthy tan"), can also lead to undesired symptoms. Thus, e.g. UV radiation lead to freckles. Malignant pigmentation may also occur due to genetic disposition, wound healing or scarring, or skin aging ("age spots"). Since the process of desquamation (superficial detachment of cells or cell groups from their epithelial dressing) involves a constant loss of melanin, lightening of the skin can be achieved by inhibiting the new synthesis of melanin.

Age spots are a sign of aging that requires special treatment. Age spots are not a more intensive pigmentation of the skin, but actually accumulations of the brownish-waxy pigment lipofuscin (also age or wear pigment), which is the end product of the oxidation of unsaturated fatty acids of cell membranes. The lysosomes are no longer able to completely degrade the substance. So he stays back as a stain.

Effective cosmetic skin whitening agents are known. However, these usually contain as active ingredient hydroquinone or kojic acid (for the inhibition of tyrosinase). Both substances are mutagenic and should therefore not be used for prolonged periods. Skin cosmetic agents for the treatment of age spots are described, for example, in the European patent application EP 2163238 A2 described.

It was still the task of providing storage-stable skin-lightening cosmetic or dermatological agents which are highly effective, also applicable under UV irradiation (sunlight) and, if possible, based on natural substances. In addition, further positive effects on older skin should be made possible, for example skin tightening and / or reduction of the skin folds.

It has surprisingly been found that the combination of at least one extract of Quassia Amara, with at least one dicarboxylic acid selected from 9-octadecene-1,18-dicarboxylic acid, 8-hexadecene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid, 7-tetradecene 1,14-dicarboxylic acid, 6-dodecene-1,12-dicarboxylic acid, 5-decene-1,10-dicarboxylic acid, sebacic acid and azelaic acid and mixtures of these dicarboxylic acids, leading to a particularly good lightening of the skin color, both in large-scale application to the skin as well as local application to pigmentary disorders such as age spots.

1. a) Extrakt aus Quassia Amara;
2. b) gesättigte oder ungesättigte, lineare (C9- bis C18)-Dicarbonsäure, insbesondere 8-Hexadecen-1,16-dicarbonsäure und/oder 7-Tetradecen-1, 14-dicarbonsäure und/oder 9-Octadecen-1,18-dicarbonsäure und/oder 6-Dodecen-1,12-dicarbonsäure und/oder 5-Decen-1,10-dicarbonsäure und/oder Decandisäure (Sebacinsäure) und/oder Nonandisäure (Azelainsäure), ganz besonders bevorzugt 8-Hexadecen-1,16-dicarbonsäure.

A first subject of the present invention are therefore cosmetic or dermatological compositions comprising a combination of at least one of the active substances listed under a) and at least one of the substances listed under b):

1. a) Extract from Quassia Amara;
2. b) saturated or unsaturated, linear (C9 to C18) dicarboxylic acid, in particular 8-hexadecene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid and / or 7-tetradecene-1, 14-dicarboxylic acid and / or 9-octadecene-1,18-dicarboxylic acid and / or 6-dodecene-1,12-dicarboxylic acid and / or 5-decene-1,10-dicarboxylic acid and / or decanedioic acid (sebacic acid) and / or nonanedioic acid (azelaic acid), very particularly preferably 8-hexadecene-1,16- dicarboxylic acid.

The compositions according to the invention contain as the first obligatory component, based on the total weight of the compositions according to the invention, a total of from 0.001 to 2.0% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight and in particular from 0.05 to 0.2% by weight .-% of at least one extract from Quassia Amara.

The Quassia amara, Brazilian Quassia tree, Quassia tree, Quassia tree, Bitter quassia or as some other species also called Bitter wood, is a plant species in the family Bittereschengewächse (Simaroubaceae). It is widespread in the Neotropics. The extracts used according to the invention are preferably obtained from the wood, leaves, flowers, fruits, particularly preferably from the wood.

Extract of Quassia amara can according to known manufacturing processes in variable composition with solvents such. As water, methanol, ethanol, acetone, etc., and mixtures thereof at temperatures from room temperature to 100 ° C under mild to vigorous mixing within 10 min. To 24 hours. Under atmospheric pressure up to 200 bar. For enrichment of effectiveness-determining components further concentration steps can be carried out such. B. liquid-liquid distribution with z. B. 1-butanol / water or ethyl acetate / water, adsorption-desorption on ion exchanger, LH20, HP20 and other resins or chromatographic separations over RP18, silica gel, etc .. If further processing to dry extracts is desired, this is carried out according to known methods by stripping off the solvent at elevated temperature and / or reduced pressure. The data on the weight fraction of Quassia Amara in the total weight of the compositions of the invention are based on the dry matter of the extract.

Very preferred according to the invention is an extract obtainable by extraction of Quassia amara wood with water.

The commercial product of the extract from Quassia Amara may contain, in addition to extractants, additional solvents to improve the shelf life of the product. For example, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and pentylene glycol are such antimicrobial solvents.

Preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention contain, based on their total weight, from 0.001 to 2.0% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight and in particular from 0.05 to 0.2% by weight of pentylene glycol.

Further preferred cosmetic or dermatological agents according to the invention contain, based on their total weight, 0.003 to 6.0% by weight, preferably 0.03 to 1.5% by weight and in particular 0.15 to 0.6% by weight 1 , 3-Butylene glycol.

The compositions according to the invention with Quassia amara extract exhibit, compared with the middle variant which does not contain Quassia amara extract, much better lightening effect against skin spots and protect the skin more effectively against the appearance of new skin patches.

As a second obligatory component, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear (C 9 -C 18) -dicarboxylic acid, in particular 8-hexadecene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid and / or 7-tetradecene-1,14-dicarboxylic acid and / or 9 Octadecene-1,18-dicarboxylic acid and / or 6-dodecene-1,12-dicarboxylic acid and / or 5-decene-1,10-dicarboxylic acid and / or decanedioic acid (sebacic acid) and / or nonanedioic acid (azelaic acid), very particularly preferably 8-hexadecene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid.

The compositions according to the invention contain, based on their total weight, the saturated or unsaturated, linear (C 9 -C 18) -dicarboxylic acid, in particular the 8-hexadecene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid, in a total amount of 0.01-10% by weight. , preferably 0.05 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 0.5 wt .-%.

8-hexadecene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid (Dioic acid, CAS number 20701-68-2), also referred to as 9-octadecene-1,18-diacid, is a metabolite of yeast cells from selected mutant strains of Candida Strain, using as starting substance a fatty acid of pure vegetable origin, which is converted into the hydroxy fatty acid, which is then oxidized through the stage of fatty acid aldehyde to dicarboxylic acid. 8-hexadecene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid is characterized by the following structure:

8-hexadecene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid is available under the trade name ODA White (INCI name OCTADECENEDIOIC ACID, BHT) from Croda (Sederma). The commercial product has a purity of 100%, wherein the 8-hexadecene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid is present therein as a mixture of the cis and trans isomers and the cis isomer predominates in terms of quantity.

Preferably, the at least one extract of Quassia Amara and the at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear (C9 to C18) dicarboxylic acid are used in specific proportions to one another. Cosmetic or dermatological agents according to the invention are preferred in which the weight ratio of the total content of Quassia Amara extract to the total amount of saturated or unsaturated, linear (C9 to C18) dicarboxylic acid is 1:10 to 5: 1, preferably 1: 5 to 2 : 1 and in particular 1: 3 to 1: 1, is.

When determining the weight ratio only dry matter of the extract from Quassia Amara is considered.

In a preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention, in order to support the whitening effect, additionally comprise a total of the combination of at least one Quassia Amara extract with at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear (C9- to C18) -dicarboxylic acid, based on the total weight of the compositions according to the invention 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 1% by weight, of at least one further skin-lightening substance selected from the group consisting of ascorbic acid, ascorbic acid salts, ascorbic acid glycosides, ascorbic acid glycoside salts, ascorbic acid esters of organic acids, the salts of ascorbic acid esters of organic acids, ascorbic acid esters of inorganic acids, the salts of ascorbic acid esters of inorganic acids, and mixtures of the aforementioned substances, in particular ascorbic acid.

Among ascorbic acid salts, the alkali and alkaline earth salts are preferred. Particularly preferred salts of ascorbic acid which can be used according to the invention are sodium hydroascorbate, sodium ascorbate, potassium hydroascorbate, potassium ascorbate, ammonium ascorbate, ammonium hydroascorbate, calcium ascorbate, calcium hydroascorbate, magnesium ascorbate and magnesium hydroascorbate.

With particular preference, the esters of ascorbic acid can be used. Ascorbyl methanoate, ascorbyl ethanoate, ascorbyl n-propanoate, ascorbyl iso-propanoate, ascorbyl n-butanoate, etc. are particularly preferred among the esters of ascorbic acid. With particular preference the agents according to the invention contain esters of ascorbic acid with fatty acids, in particular ascorbyl linoleate, ascorbyl oleate, ascorbyloleinate, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl stearate, ascorbyl oleate (6-palmitoyl-L-ascorbic acid) and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate.

Also "inorganic" acids can be esterified with ascorbic acid. Among the "inorganic" esters of ascorbic acid, particular preference is given to ascorbyl phosphate.

Also ascorbic acid derivatives with glycosidically bound sugars are inventively used with particular preference. In particular, the ascorbyl glucoside has proven to be useful here.

Preference is given to cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention which contain ascorbyl phosphate and / or ascorbyl glucoside and / or ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate.

Apart from the ascorbic acid and / or ascorbic acid salts and / or ascorbic acid derivatives, in a further preferred embodiment the compositions according to the invention may further comprise at least one conditioning agent selected from the group of vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors. These are in the inventive compositions in an amount of 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.2 to 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 1 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the funds, contain. According to the invention, such vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are preferred, which are usually assigned to groups A, B, F and H.

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A1) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A2). The β-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration.

• Vitamin B1 (Thiamin)
• Vitamin B2 (Riboflavin)
• Vitamin B3. Unter dieser Bezeichnung werden häufig die Verbindungen Nicotinsäure und Nicotinsäureamid (Niacinamid) geführt, unter denen insbesondere das Nicotinsäureamid erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt ist.
• Vitamin B5 (Pantothensäure und Panthenol). Im Rahmen dieser Gruppe wird bevorzugt das Panthenol eingesetzt. Erfindungsgemäß einsetzbare Derivate des Panthenols sind insbesondere die Ester und Ether des Panthenols, kationisch derivatisierte Panthenole sowie Pantolacton.
• Vitamin B6 (Pyridoxin sowie Pyridoxamin und Pyridoxal).

The vitamin B group or vitamin B complex includes, among others

• Vitamin B1 (thiamine)
• Vitamin B2 (riboflavin)
• Vitamin B3. Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed, among which in particular the nicotinic acid amide is preferred according to the invention.
• Vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid and panthenol). Within this group the panthenol is preferred. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol, cationically derivatized panthenols and pantolactone.
• Vitamin B6 (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

The term "vitamin F" is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.

Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] -imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile prevailed.

It is also advantageous in the context of the present invention to prepare cosmetic or dermatological agents whose main purpose is not the protection from sunlight, but which nevertheless contain a content of further UV protective substances.

The UV filters to be used according to the invention are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties. On the contrary, all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and whose absorption maximum lies in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) range are suitable. The UVA, UVB and UVC filters can be used individually or in mixtures. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.

The use of at least one inorganic and / or at least one organic UV filter substance is preferred according to the invention.

The organic UV filters preferred according to the invention are selected from the derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, cinnamic acid esters, diphenylacrylic esters, benzophenone, camphor, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, o-aminobenzoic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles, symmetrically or unsymmetrically substituted 1,3,5-triazines, monomeric and oligomeric 4,4-Diarylbutadienecarboxylic acid esters and carboxamides, ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane, benzalmalonic acid esters, Benzoxazole and any mixtures of the components mentioned. The organic UV filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. The benzoxazole derivatives are advantageously present in dissolved form in the cosmetic preparations according to the invention. However, it may also be advantageous if the benzoxazole derivatives are present in a pigmentary, ie undissolved form, for example in particle sizes of from 10 nm to 300 nm. According to the invention particularly preferred oil-soluble UV filters are 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione (Parsol ^® 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'- isopropylphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-octyl ester, 4 - (dimethylamino) benzoic acid ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester, 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene), salicylic acid 2-ethylhexylester, Salicylic acid 4-isopropylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid homomenthyl ester (3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4 -methoxybenzophenone, 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'-hydroxybenzoyl) -benzoesäurhexylester (also: aminobenzophenone, available under the name Uvinul A Plus from BASF), 4-Methoxybenzmalonsäuredi-2-ethylhexyl ester, of polymers bound UV filters, eg. B. 3- (4- (2,2-bis-ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) -methoxysiloxan / dimethylsiloxane copolymer with the INCI name Dimethicodiethylbenzal malonate (CAS no. 207574-74-1, Parsol ^® SLX) , Triazine derivatives, such as. For example, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, available under the name Tinosorb S from CIBA), dioctylbutylamidotriazone (INCI: Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, available under the name Uvasorb HEB from Sigma 3V ^®), 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl- 1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine (ethylhexyl triazone, Uvinul ^® T 150), 2- [4,6-bis (2,4-dimethylphenyl) -1,3,5-triazin-2-yl ] -5- (octyloxy) phenol (CAS No .: 2725-22-6), 2,4-bis [5-1 (di-methylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl (4-phenyl) -imino] - 6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1,3,5-triazine (CAS no. 288254-16-0, Uvasorb K2A ^® from 3V Sigma), the benzotriazole derivatives of 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- ( 2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -phenol) [Tinosorb M (Ciba)], 2,2'-methyl-bis- [6 (2H-benzotriazole-2 -yl) -4- (methyl) phenol] (MIXXIM BB / 200 from Fairmount Chemical), 2- (2'-hydroxy-3 ', 5'-di-t-amylphenyl) benzotriazole (CAS No .: 025973 -551), 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-octylphenyl) benzot riazole (CAS no. 003147-75-9), 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-methylphenyl) benzotriazole (CAS No. 2440-22-4), 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6 - [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - ((tri-methylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl) propyl] -phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI -Credication Drometrizole Trisiloxanes, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Bis -Ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine or Aniso triazine, available as Tinosorb S from CIBA ^®), 2,4-bis - {[4- (3-sulfonato) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6 - (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine sodium salt, 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- [4- (2-methoxyethylcarboxyl) phenylamino] -1,3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] - phenyl} -6- [4- (ethylcarboxyl) -phenylamino] -1,3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- ( 1-methyl-pyrrol-2-yl) -1,3,5 triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4-tris (trimethylsil-oxy-silylpropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis { [4- (2-methylpropenyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - [[4- (1 ', 1 ', 1', 3 ', 5', 5 ', 5'-Heptamethylsiloxy-2-methyl-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine and Mixtures of the components mentioned.

Preferred water-soluble UV filters are 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and their alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, Alkylammonium, Alkanolammonium- and Glucammoniumsalze, in particular the sulfonic acid itself with the INCI name Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (CAS No. 27503-81-7), for example, under the trade name Eusolex 232 at Merck or Neo Heliopan Hydro available from Symrise and the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate (CAS No .: 180898- 37-7), which is available for example under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP Symrise, sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers such. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bionylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) sulfonic acid and its salts with the INCI name Terephthalydene Dicampher Sulfonic Acid (CAS. 90457-82-2, available as Mexoryl SX from Chimex).

Inorganic pigments can also be used according to the invention as UV filters. Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other sparingly water-soluble or insoluble metal compounds, for example carbonates, sulfates, etc. Preferred oxides of titanium (TiO 2), zinc (ZnO), iron (eg Fe 2 O 3), zirconium (ZrO 2 ), Silicon (SiO 2), manganese (eg MnO), aluminum (Al 2 O 3), cerium (eg Ce 2 O 3), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals as well as mixtures of such oxides and the barium sulfate (BaSO 4).

The inorganic pigments may have a maximum average particle diameter of 200 microns and from the oxides of silicon, titanium, iron, zinc, zirconium, magnesium, cerium and bismuth, boron nitride, mica, fluorspar and water-insoluble pearlescent pigments containing at least one inorganic and / or or organic compound may be selected. Preferred inorganic pigments have a diameter of 1 to 100 .mu.m, more preferably 1 to 50 .mu.m, and most preferably 1 to 10 .mu.m.

The pigments can be both colored and colorless. The preferred pigments are selected from the oxides of silicon, titanium, zinc and iron, as well as bismuth oxychloride. Further preferred pigments according to the invention are mica and pearlescent pigments.

The said inorganic pigments may be coated. The coating can be carried out with the aid of inorganic and / or organic compounds. According to the invention, preference is given to inorganic pigments which have an inorganic coating.

Preferred pigments of this type are selected from silica particles coated with titanium dioxide and / or iron oxides. A particularly preferred pigment of this type is the commercial product Ronasphere® LDP from Merck KGaA. This product is a spherical silica particle coated with titanium dioxide and iron oxide. Ronasphere® LDP has a refractive index that is similar to the refractive index of the skin.

Also suitable are inorganic-coated mica pigments which have no pearlescence.

Further preferred inorganic-coated inorganic pigments are mica pigments which are coated with titanium dioxide in various layer thicknesses, for example the product RonaFlair® Extender W from Merk KGaA. The named product had average particle diameters of 3 to 8 μm. Also preferred are mica particles having a coating of metal oxide mixture. Other pigments which are suitable according to the invention are inorganic-coated inorganic pigments whose coating has a proportion of 0.1-5% by weight of tin oxide.

Also suitable according to the invention, although less preferred, are inorganic pigments coated with organic substances. Examples include aluminum stearate coated titanium dioxide pigments, dimethylpolysiloxane (dimethicone) coated zinc oxide, dimethicone coated boron nitride, a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane and silica gel (simethicone) and alumina hydrate (alumina) coated titania, octylsilanol coated titania or spherical polyalkylsesquisiloxane particles ,

In a preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention comprise at least one metal oxide, preferably a metal oxide as skin-lightening active ingredient. Here, cosmetic or dermatological agents according to the invention are preferred which contain, based on their total weight, a total of 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 3 wt .-% metal oxide, preferably metal oxide as skin-lightening agent. Titanium dioxide is preferably usable according to the invention.

The compositions of the invention contain the respective active ingredients in a cosmetically acceptable carrier. This cosmetic carrier is preferably aqueous, alcoholic, aqueous-alcoholic or aqueous-glycolic. Such carriers are, for example, creams, emulsions, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions, such as shower gels or other preparations which are suitable for use on the skin. An aqueous carrier contains in According to the invention preferably at least 40 wt .-%, particularly preferably at least 50 wt .-% water. Cosmetic agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain 10 to 80% by weight, preferably 20 to 75% by weight, more preferably 30 to 70% by weight, even more preferably 35 to 100% by weight, based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent 60 wt .-% and in particular 40 to 60 wt .-% water.

In the context of the present invention, aqueous-alcoholic carriers are water-containing compositions containing from 3 to 70% by weight, preferably from 10 to 60% by weight, particularly preferably from 15 to 40% by weight, of a monohydric C 2 -C 4 -alcohol. especially ethanol, to understand.

For the purposes of the present invention, aqueous-glycolic carriers are water-containing compositions containing from 3 to 70% by weight, preferably from 10 to 60% by weight, particularly preferably from 15 to 40% by weight, of at least one bivalent or polyvalent C 2 C9 alcohol or at least one water-soluble polyethylene glycol having 3 to 20 ethylene oxide units, in particular selected from 1,2-propylene glycol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, glycerol, 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol , 1,4-butylene glycol, pentylene glycols such as 1,2-pentanediol and 1,5-pentanediol, hexanediols such as 1,6-hexanediol, hexanetriols such as 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 1,2-octanediol, 1,8-octanediol , Dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, diglycerol, triglycerol, PEG-3, PEG-4, PEG-6, PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-9, PEG-10, PEG-12, PEG-14, PEG-16, PEG -18 and PEG-20 and mixtures thereof.

The compositions of the invention may additionally contain other organic solvents such as, for example, methoxybutanol, ethyl diglycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, n-propanol, n-butanol, n-butylene glycol, glycerol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and diethylene glycol mono-n butyl ether. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents.

The compositions according to the invention can be formulated in all dosage forms suitable for topical application to the skin. Preferred dosage forms are a solution, a water-in-oil (W / O) type emulsion, an oil-in-water (O / W) type emulsion, a multiple emulsion, for example, water-in-oil-in type Water (W / O / W) or oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O), a hydrodispersion, a lipodispersion, a gel, a hydrodispersion gel, a lipodispersion gel, a solid stick, a gel patch (Gelpatch ), a patch, a cataplasm, drug-containing liposomes or a transdermal therapeutic system. Low-viscous or medium-viscosity dosage forms may also be packaged in a propellant-free pump or spray dispenser or together with a propellant in an aerosol container.

The ready-to-use agents according to the invention may contain further active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives.

For example, it has proved to be advantageous for the application and the whereabouts of the agent on the skin if the agents contain at least one thickener. Regarding this

• anionische, synthetische Polymere;
• kationische, synthetische Polymere;
• natürlich vorkommende Verdickungsmittel, wie Guargums, Skleroglucangums oder Xanthangums, Gummi arabicum, Ghatti-Gummi, Karaya-Gummi, Tragant-Gummi, Carrageen-Gummi, Agar-Agar, Johannisbrotkernmehl, Pektine, Alginate, Stärke-Fraktionen und Derivate wie Amylose, Amylopektin und Dextrine, sowie Cellulosederivate, wie beispielsweise Methylcellulose, Carboxyalkylcellulosen und Hydroxyalkylcellulosen;
• nichtionische, vollsynthetische Polymere, wie Polyvinylalkohol oder Polyvinylpyrrolidinon; sowie
• anorganische Verdickungsmittel, insbesondere Schichtsilikate wie beispielsweise Bentonit, besonders Smektite, wie Montmorillonit oder Hectorit.

Thickeners are not subject to any restrictions. Both organic and purely inorganic thickening agents can be used. Suitable thickeners are

• anionic, synthetic polymers;
• cationic synthetic polymers;
• naturally occurring thickening agents such as guar gums, scleroglucan gums or xanthan gums, gum arabic, ghatti gum, karaya gum, gum tragacanth, carrageenan gum, agar agar, locust bean gum, pectins, alginates, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and Dextrins, as well as cellulose derivatives such as methylcellulose, carboxyalkylcelluloses and hydroxyalkylcelluloses;
• nonionic, fully synthetic polymers, such as polyvinyl alcohol or polyvinylpyrrolidinone; such as
• inorganic thickeners, in particular phyllosilicates such as bentonite, especially smectites, such as montmorillonite or hectorite.

Preferably, the agents are provided as flowable preparations. "Flowable" in the context of the present application are compositions which are pourable and may have viscosities of from 10 mPa.s up to 250,000 mPa.s (20 ° C.). The viscosity can be measured by conventional standard methods (for example Brookfield LVT-II viscosimeter at 20 rpm and 20 ° C., spindle 3) and is preferably in the range from 50 to 50 000 mPa · s. Preferred agents have viscosities of from 1000 to 30,000 mPas, with values of from 5,000 to 20,000 mPas being particularly preferred.

According to the invention emulsions, z. As in the form of a cream, a lotion or a cosmetic milk, are advantageous and contain z. As fats, oils, waxes and / or other fatty substances, and water and one or more emulsifiers, such as are commonly used for such a type of formulation.

• Anlagerungsprodukte von 4 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 22 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• C12-C22-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Polyole mit 3 bis 6 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere an Glycerin,
• Ethylenoxid- und Polyglycerin-Anlagerungsprodukte an Methylglucosid-Fettsäureester, Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettsäureglucamide,
• C8-C22-Alkylmono- und -oligoglycoside und deren ethoxylierte Analoga, wobei Oligomerisierungsgrade von 1,1 bis 5, insbesondere 1,2 bis 2,0, und Glucose als Zuckerkomponente bevorzugt sind,
• Gemische aus Alkyl-(oligo)-glucosiden und Fettalkoholen zum Beispiel das im Handel erhältliche Produkt Montanov®68,
• Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• Partialester von Polyolen mit 3-6 Kohlenstoffatomen mit gesättigten Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen,
• Sterine. Als Sterine wird eine Gruppe von Steroiden verstanden, die am C-Atom 3 des Steroid-Gerüstes eine Hydroxylgruppe tragen und sowohl aus tierischem Gewebe (Zoosterine) wie auch aus pflanzlichen Fetten (Phytosterine) isoliert werden. Beispiele für Zoosterine sind das Cholesterin und das Lanosterin. Beispiele geeigneter Phytosterine sind Ergosterin, Stigmasterin und Sitosterin. Auch aus Pilzen und Hefen werden Sterine, die sogenannten Mykosterine, isoliert.
• Phospholipide. Hierunter werden vor allem die Glucose-Phospolipide, die z.B. als Lecithine bzw. Phosphatidylcholine aus z.B. Eidotter oder Pflanzensamen (z.B. Sojabohnen) gewonnen werden, verstanden.
• Fettsäureester von Zuckern und Zuckeralkoholen, wie Sorbit,
• Polyglycerine und Polyglycerinderivate wie beispielsweise Polyglycerinpoly-12-hydroxystearat (Handelsprodukt Dehymuls® PGPH),
• Lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C - Atomen und deren Na-, K-, Ammonium-, Ca-, Mg- und Zn - Salze.

In a further preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention may contain emulsifiers. Emulsifiers effect at the phase interface the formation of water- or oil-stable adsorption layers, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion. Emulsifiers are therefore constructed like surfactants from a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic part of the molecule. Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions. An emulsion is to be understood as meaning a droplet-like distribution (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid under the expense of energy in order to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants. The selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers depends on the substances to be dispersed and the respective outer phase and the fineness of the emulsion. Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example

• Addition products of 4 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
• C12-C22 fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide onto polyols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular to glycerol,
• Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products to methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,
• C 8 -C 22 -alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, preference being given to degrees of oligomerization of from 1.1 to 5, in particular from 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as the sugar component,
• Mixtures of alkyl (oligo) glucosides and fatty alcohols, for example the commercially available product Montanov®68,
• Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
• Partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
• Sterols. Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which have a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.
• Phospholipids. These include, in particular, the glucose phospholipids which are obtained, for example, as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from, for example, egg yolks or plant seeds (for example soybeans).
• Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol,
• Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls® PGPH),
• Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.

The agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of from 0.1 to 30% by weight, in particular from 3 to 15% by weight, based on the total agent.

The agents according to the invention may preferably contain at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 to 18. Nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value of 10 to 15 may be particularly preferred according to the invention.

The compositions according to the invention are suitable for lightening the skin and can be used accordingly. In this case, the skin can be locally limited (for example freckles, age spots or Fehlpigmentierungen) or large (for skin lightening) to be treated.

Further objects of the present invention are therefore the non-therapeutic, cosmetic use of cosmetic or dermatological agents according to the invention for lightening the skin color, reducing pigmentation of the skin, balancing the appearance of uneven skin pigmentation and / or lightening age spots or freckles of the skin ,

Another object of the present invention is the non-therapeutic, cosmetic use of cosmetic and dermatological agents according to the invention for the treatment of postinflammatory hyperpigmentation.

With respect to preferred embodiments of the uses according to the invention mutatis mutandis applies to the means of the invention.

1. a) Extrakt aus Quassia Amara;
2. b) gesättigte oder ungesättigte, lineare (C9- bis C18)-Dicarbonsäure, insbesondere 8-Hexadecen-1,16-dicarbonsäure und/oder 7-Tetradecen-1, 14-dicarbonsäure und/oder 9-Octadecen-1,18-dicarbonsäure und/oder 6-Dodecen-1,12-dicarbonsäure und/oder 5-Decen-1,10-dicarbonsäure und/oder Decandisäure (Sebacinsäure) und/oder Nonandisäure (Azelainsäure), ganz besonders bevorzugt 8-Hexadecen-1,16-dicarbonsäure,

auf die Haut aufgetragen wird.Another object of the present invention is a non-therapeutic, cosmetic method for whitening the skin color, to reduce the pigmentation of the skin, to compensate for the appearance of uneven skin pigmentation and / or to lighten age spots or freckles of the skin, characterized in that Cosmetic composition containing a combination of at least one of the active substances listed under a) and at least one of the substances listed under b):

1. a) Extract from Quassia Amara;
2. b) saturated or unsaturated, linear (C9 to C18) dicarboxylic acid, in particular 8-hexadecene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid and / or 7-tetradecene-1, 14-dicarboxylic acid and / or 9-octadecene-1,18-dicarboxylic acid and / or 6-dodecene-1,12-dicarboxylic acid and / or 5-decene-1,10-dicarboxylic acid and / or decanedioic acid (sebacic acid) and / or nonanedioic acid (azelaic acid), very particularly preferably 8-hexadecene-1,16- dicarboxylic acid,

is applied to the skin.

With respect to preferred embodiments of the method according to the invention mutatis mutandis applies to the means of the invention.

The following examples illustrate the invention without, however, limiting it to:

Examples:

The following cosmetic or dermatological agents have been prepared, all numerical values in the following examples, unless otherwise stated, corresponding to the amount of the respective active substance in percent by weight, based on the total weight of the composition:

The compositions of the invention according to formula 66 were tested in a use test under dermatological control on 50 subjects with age spots on the face. The test subjects should use the funds for facial care at least twice a day for a total of 4 weeks. The dermatological use test of the compositions according to the invention in comparison to the middle variant which does not contain Quassia amara extract shows that the compositions according to the invention with Quassia amara extract show much better whitening effects against skin spots and protect the skin more effectively against the appearance of new skin patches. Used raw materials trade name INCI name Supplier / Manufacturer Quassia Amara A 00264 Quassia Amara Wood Extract BASF Cetiol ^® SB 45 Butyrospermum Parkii (Schea Butter) Cognis Cetiol ^® SN Cetearyl Isononanoate Cognis Cutina MD Glyceryl stearate Cognis RonaFlair ^® Extender W MICA, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide) Merck RonaFlair ^® Balance Gold Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Tin Oxide Merck Montanov 202 Arachidyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, Arachidyl glucoside Seppic Nikkol VC IP Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate Nikko Chemicals Nikkol VC PMG C Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate Nikko Chemicals ODA White Octadecenedioic Acid, BHT Croda Uvinul T 150 Ethylhexyl triazone BASF

Claims (10)

Cosmetic or dermatological agent containing a combination of at least one of the active substances listed under a) and at least one of the substances listed under b): a) Extract from Quassia Amara; b) saturated or unsaturated, linear (C9 to C18) dicarboxylic acid, in particular 8-hexadecene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid and / or 7-tetradecene-1,14-dicarboxylic acid and / or 9-octadecene-1,18-dicarboxylic acid and / or 6-dodecene-1,12-dicarboxylic acid and / or 5-decene-1,10-dicarboxylic acid and / or decanedioic acid (sebacic acid) and / or nonanedioic acid (azelaic acid), very particularly preferably 8-hexadecene-1,16- dicarboxylic acid. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that , based on its total weight, a total of 0.001 to 2.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 0.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.05 to 0.2 wt. - contains at least one extract from Quassia Amara. Composition according to one of claims 1 - 2, characterized in that it, based on its total weight, the saturated or unsaturated, linear (C9 to C18) dicarboxylic acid, in particular the 8-hexadecene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid, in a total amount from 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 0.5 wt .-%, contains. Agent according to one of claims 1-3, characterized in that the weight ratio of the total content of Quassia Amara extract to the total amount of the saturated or unsaturated, linear (C9 to C18) dicarboxylic acid 1:10 to 5: 1, preferably 1: 5 to 2: 1 and in particular 1: 3 to 1: 1, is. Agent according to one of claims 1 - 4, characterized in that it additionally contains a total of 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 1 wt .-%, of at least one further skin lightening substance, which is selected from A group consisting of ascorbic acid, ascorbic acid salts, ascorbic acid glycosides, ascorbic acid glycoside salts, ascorbic acid esters of organic acids, the salts of ascorbic acid esters of organic acids, ascorbic acid esters of inorganic acids, the salts of ascorbic acid esters of inorganic acids, and mixtures of the aforementioned substances, in particular ascorbic acid. Agent according to one of claims 1-5, characterized in that it contains at least one metal oxide, preferably a metal oxide as skin-lightening agent. Composition according to claim 6, characterized in that it contains, based on its total weight, a total of 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 3 wt .-% metal oxide, preferably metal oxide as a skin lightening agent. Agent according to one of claims 1-7, characterized in that it contains 10 to 80 wt .-%, preferably 20 to 75 wt .-%, more preferably 30 to 70 wt .-%, still more preferably 35 to 60 wt. % and in particular 40 to 60 wt .-% water. Non-therapeutic, cosmetic use of a cosmetic or dermatological composition according to any one of claims 1-8 for lightening the color of the skin, reducing the pigmentation of the skin, balancing the appearance of uneven skin pigmentation and / or lightening age spots or freckles of the skin. Non-therapeutic, cosmetic method for lightening the color of the skin, for reducing the pigmentation of the skin, for balancing the appearance of uneven skin pigmentation and / or for lightening age spots or freckles of the skin, characterized in that a cosmetic agent containing a combination of at least one of the active substances listed under a) and at least one of the substances listed under b): a) Extract from Quassia Amara; b) saturated or unsaturated, linear (C9 to C18) dicarboxylic acid, in particular 8-hexadecene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid and / or 7-tetradecene-1, 14-dicarboxylic acid and / or 9-octadecene-1,18-dicarboxylic acid and / or 6-dodecene-1,12-dicarboxylic acid and / or 5-decene-1,10-dicarboxylic acid and / or decanedioic acid (sebacic acid) and / or nonanedioic acid (azelaic acid), very particularly preferably 8-hexadecene-1,16- dicarboxylic acid, is applied to the skin.