EP2853296B1 - Schutzvorrichtung zur Verwendung beim Klettern - Google Patents

Schutzvorrichtung zur Verwendung beim Klettern Download PDF

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Publication number
EP2853296B1
EP2853296B1 EP14186458.7A EP14186458A EP2853296B1 EP 2853296 B1 EP2853296 B1 EP 2853296B1 EP 14186458 A EP14186458 A EP 14186458A EP 2853296 B1 EP2853296 B1 EP 2853296B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
camming device
head
stem
tensile
camming
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Active
Application number
EP14186458.7A
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English (en)
French (fr)
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EP2853296A1 (de
Inventor
Darren McMaster
Elliot James Tanner
Frederick Allan Hall
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
DMM International Ltd
Original Assignee
DMM International Ltd
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by DMM International Ltd filed Critical DMM International Ltd
Priority to EP15174664.1A priority Critical patent/EP2954937B1/de
Publication of EP2853296A1 publication Critical patent/EP2853296A1/de
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP2853296B1 publication Critical patent/EP2853296B1/de
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Classifications

    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C25—ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PROCESSES; APPARATUS THEREFOR
    • C25D—PROCESSES FOR THE ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PRODUCTION OF COATINGS; ELECTROFORMING; APPARATUS THEREFOR
    • C25D11/00—Electrolytic coating by surface reaction, i.e. forming conversion layers
    • C25D11/02—Anodisation
    • C25D11/022—Anodisation on selected surface areas
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63—SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63B—APPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B29/00—Apparatus for mountaineering
    • A63B29/02—Mountain guy-ropes or accessories, e.g. avalanche ropes; Means for indicating the location of accidentally buried, e.g. snow-buried, persons
    • A63B29/024—Climbing chocks
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63—SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63B—APPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B71/00—Games or sports accessories not covered in groups A63B1/00 - A63B69/00
    • A63B71/06—Indicating or scoring devices for games or players, or for other sports activities
    • A63B2071/0694—Visual indication, e.g. Indicia

Definitions

  • This invention relates to a protection device for use in climbing. It has particular application to a protection device of the type known as a "camming device”.
  • a camming device includes a stem on which is carried a head that comprises a plurality of pivotal cam elements.
  • the cam elements are sprung to an expanded position, and can be drawn to a retracted position by operation of a manual control, typically by drawing it along the stem.
  • a manual control typically by drawing it along the stem.
  • the elements are retracted and the head is inserted into a recess in a rock.
  • the control is released, and the cam elements move towards the expanded position to make contact with and to grip the rock, and thereby retain the head within the recess.
  • the cams are arranged such that if a force is applied to the stem that would pull the head from the recess, the effect is to urge the cam elements towards the expanded position, thereby enhancing the grip of the cams on the rock.
  • the stem includes a loop to which a flexible sling can be connected, typically during manufacture, and/or a carabiner can be connected by a user as required.
  • a conventional camming device has a stem that comprises one or more cables connected to a component of the head, and which may be further connected to a termination, or which is formed as a loop, to allow connection optionally by way of a sling to a carabiner.
  • US-A-4 832 289 shows a camming device having a head on a flexible main cable.
  • the head has spring-biased cams which are wedged by a camming action onto the walls of a crevice by pulling on the cable.
  • the cams are actuated against a spring by an elongate flexible sleevelike structure coaxially supported and slidable on the cable.
  • EP-A-1 557 202 discloses a camming device in which the stem is formed from a single length of cable that is formed into a loop, and has two opposite end portions secured to the head between the camming elements.
  • the stem has an elongate portion extending from the head, in which lengths of the cable run parallel to one another. Remote from the head, a connection the cable forms a loop to which a carabiner or sling can be connected. This is a compact and lightweight arrangement.
  • An aim of this invention is to provide a camming device that has a stem which provides the advantages of the device of EP-A-1 557 202 , yet which can be used with a wider range of slings and carabiners without a reduction in the strength of the device.
  • This invention provides a camming device according to claim 1.
  • the camming device comprises a head on which is carried a plurality of pivotable cam elements that can pivot between an extended position and a withdrawn position, a trigger operable to pivot the cam elements towards the withdrawn position, and a stem connected to the head, wherein the stem has a first and a second portion, an end part of the first portion being secured to the head, and the second portion having two branches that are secured to a common termination component at spaced-apart locations.
  • Loads arising from connection of the device to other equipment can be borne primarily by the termination component rather than the tensile members, thereby removing a potential source of weakness in known devices wherein an end portion of each of the branches of the second portion is retained by the termination component, the branches extending through respective bores in the termination component, each branch carrying blocking means that cannot pass through at least part of the bore.
  • the stem comprises a plurality of tensile members.
  • Each tensile member may be constituted by a length of cable, such as stainless steel or galvanised steel cable, or by a length of synthetic or composite material.
  • the tensile members may be connected to the head by all of them being swaged, soldered or otherwise fixed within a common formation of the head, such as a common recess, or tubular formation. Alternatively, they may be secured independently, but closely spaced.
  • each of the tensile members are close to or in contact with one another, or there is a single tensile member.
  • the first portion may be enclosed within a flexible sleeve. This presents the appearance of a single, approximately cylindrical, covered member.
  • the trigger may be carried on the stem in the region of the first portion such that it can slide along the stem.
  • tensile members may diverge from one another in a direction away from the head, thereby forming a branch in the stem. At least part of the divergent portion of tensile members may be contained within a channel in a splitter block.
  • the splitter block may have a concave surface facing away from the head, the concave surface serving as a convenient and comfortable abutment to which a user can apply a manual force to assist in operation of the trigger.
  • there is typically a space between the splitter block and the termination component for example by spacing the splitter block and the termination components apart along the length of the tensile members. This enables a carabiner or other connection device to be introduced into the space between the splitter block and the termination component between the two branches of the second portion of the stem to enable the device to be connected to other equipment.
  • An aperture is advantageously provided through the termination component.
  • Such embodiments of the invention may include such a sling, which is typically formed of a web of woven material, such as a polyethylene or other polymer or composite fibre of extreme strength, such as that made by DSM Dyneema B.V, and sold under the trade mark Dyneema.
  • the sling is typically a continuous loop that preferably passes twice through the aperture. It will be seen that this arrangement provides a barrier between the sling and a carabiner within the branched second portion of the stem, so preventing the carabiner from damaging the sling.
  • the blocking means may be a ferrule applied to an end portion of the tensile member.
  • the termination component is typically formed from a casting, forging of or is machined from metal alloy.
  • each of the cam elements typically has a body on which a curved working surface is formed.
  • the working surface is the part of the cam element that is intended to engage with a surface to cause the device to be retained in place, for example within a recess or crack in a rock.
  • the working surface typically has additional formations, such as grooves or ridges, to enhance its grip.
  • a cam element for a camming device is also provided, which has a body on which is formed a working surface, in which the body, as manufactured, has applied to it a coating, primarily for size identification during use, other than in the region of the working surface.
  • the absence of a coating enhances the grip of the working surface (or avoids the degradation of the grip that is caused by the presence of a coating). It should be noted that in conventional cam elements, which are entirely coated, the coating may partially or completely wear from the working surface after a period of use.
  • the coating is one that is applied as a manufacturing step, such as by an anodisation process, as distinct from a naturally-occurring passivation coating as forms naturally on metals such as aluminium.
  • One or more cam elements in a device according to the invention may be provided with this coating.
  • a method of making a cam element comprising forming a body, applying a coating to the body, and performing an operation on the body to form a working surface, thereby removing the coating in the region of the working surface. Such an operation may include one or more of machining, abrading, or blasting.
  • a method of making a cam element comprising forming a body that includes a working surface, applying a resist or a mask to the working surface, and then applying a coating to the body other than in the region of the resist or mask.
  • the camming device comprises a head on which is carried a plurality of pivotable cam elements, at least one cam element being provided with this coating.
  • a camming device comprises a head 10 and stem 12.
  • the head comprises an axle boss 20 formed from metal alloy, which may be cast, forged or machined as appropriate.
  • the axle boss 20 has a projecting termination tube 22.
  • the axle boss 20 has a plurality (four, in this embodiment) of projecting pivot pin 24.
  • the axle boss 20 has a central plane of symmetry upon which the termination tube 22 is centred. All of the pivot pins 24 project normally from the plane of symmetry, half of them in one direction and half in the opposite direction.
  • a securing plate 30 serves to retain each cam element 28 on its pivot pin. In this embodiment, each securing plate 30 extends between two pins on one side of the central plane.
  • Each pivot pin 24 carries a respective cam element 28, such that each cam element 28 can pivot about the pin 24 on which it is carried between a withdrawn position, and an extended operational position, the latter being shown in the drawings.
  • a respective spring 32 surrounds each pivot pin 24 that acts to urge the corresponding cam element 28 towards the extended position.
  • the stem 12 comprises two similar lengths of stainless steel cable40. An end portion of each of the lengths of cable 40 is inserted into the termination tube 22, which is then crimped to securely retain the cables 40 within. A first length of both of the cables 40 extends from the termination tube 22 within a common flexible polymer sleeve 42.
  • a rigid splitter block 46 is carried at an end of the sleeve 42.
  • the cables enter the splitter block 46 from the end of the sleeve 42.
  • the cables 40 extend within respective bores that diverge apart from one another, causing whereby the stem is branched, and then emerge from the splitter block 46 with an acute angle between them in a plane that is generally parallel to the axes of the pivot pins 24.
  • the splitter block 46 has a concave curved surface 48 within which ridges are formed extending between the cables 40 where they leave the splitter block 46.
  • the cables 40 extend from the splitter block 46 to a forged or cast alloy termination block 50.
  • the termination block 50 has a respective bore 54 within which each cable 40 is received. Between the splitter block 46 and the termination block 50, the cables curve such that they converge as they enter the termination block 50.
  • a central part of the bore 54 has a diameter that is a close fit around the cable 40.
  • a respective terminating ferrule 56 is secured to an end portion of each cable 40 by a crimping and/or silver soldering.
  • the ferrules 56 have an external diameter greater than the diameter of the central parts of the bores 54, and thus prevent removal of the termination block 50 from the cables 40.
  • each cable is contained within a respective flexible tube 52, which may be transparent to enhance the appearance of the device. End portions of the bores in the splitter block 46 and the termination block 50 are enlarged to receive end portions of the flexible tubes 52.
  • a rounded aperture 60 is formed through the termination block 50 normal to the plane of the cables 40.
  • a length of strong, flexible webbing is passed twice through the aperture 60 and formed into a continuous loop by sewing its opposite end portions together to form a continuous sling 62 with two loops, each passing through the aperture 60.
  • a trigger 34 is carried on the stem 12, such the trigger 34 can slide along the polymer sleeve 42. Respective portions of the trigger 34 extend in the plane of the cables 40 to opposite sides of the sleeve 42. These portions have respective concave surfaces 36 facing the head 10.
  • the trigger 34 is connected to each of the cam elements 28 by wires 26. When the cam elements 28 are in the extended position, the trigger 34 is close to the head 10 and is retained against a stop 38 formed on the sleeve 42. If the trigger 34 is drawn along the stem 12 away from the head, the wires pull the trigger elements 28 towards the withdrawn position against the force of the springs 32.
  • each cam element 28 has a body and a peripheral curved working surface 66 that makes contact with rock when the device is in use.
  • the working surface 66 has a plurality of grooves 68 extending across it to enhance its grip.
  • Most of each cam element 28 is anodised. This serves two purposes: the anodised coat can be coloured to indicate some property of the device (most usually, its size) in a clear and easy-to-recognise manner, and the coat inhibits corrosion of the metal of the cam element 28.
  • the working surface 66 is, however, free from such a coating. This can be achieved during manufacture in various ways.
  • the working surface may have a resist or mask applied prior to the cam element being subject to anodisation.
  • the entire cam element may be anodised prior to a subsequent manufacturing step in which the working surface 66 and its grooves 68 are machined, thereby removing the coating in the region of the working surface.
  • cam elements shown in Figure 4 have potential application to camming devices in general.
  • the camming device can be connected to other equipment in various ways.
  • a carabiner 70 can be inserted into the loop formed by the splitter block 46, the termination block 50 and the two lengths of cable running between them, as shown in Figure 5 .
  • the sling 62 can be connected to a connecting device such as a carabiner. As shown in Figure 6 , both loops of the sling 62 can be drawn from the termination block 50, and a connecting device passed through both bops. Alternatively, just one loop can be drawn from the termination block and the connecting device is passed through that one loop, as shown in Figure 7 .
  • the latter configuration 62 provides a sling that is almost twice as long as the former.
  • the termination block 50 is subject to the greatest loading, so avoiding high, localised loads being applied to a cable, or other component that could be damaged by such a load.
  • the first portion of the stem which extends from the head to the splitter block, is formed from a single length of cable.
  • the second portion of the stem is constituted by two lengths of cable that extend from the splitter block to the termination block.

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  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • Electrochemistry (AREA)
  • Materials Engineering (AREA)
  • Metallurgy (AREA)
  • Organic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Pulmonology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Physical Education & Sports Medicine (AREA)
  • Electric Cable Installation (AREA)

Claims (13)

  1. Nockeneinrichtung umfassend einen Kopf (10) auf dem eine Vielzahl von schwenkbaren Nockenelementen (28) getragen wird, die zwischen einer ausgefahrenen Position und einer zurückgezogenen Position schwenken können, einen Auslöser (34), der so betrieben werden kann, dass er die Nockenelemente zu der zurückgezogenen Position schwenkt, und einen Schaft (12), der mit dem Kopf verbunden ist, wobei der Schaft einen ersten und einen zweiten Abschnitt aufweist, wobei ein Endteil des ersten Abschnitts an dem Kopf befestigt ist und der zweite Abschnitt zwei Zweige aufweist, die an einer gemeinsamen Abschlusskomponente (50) an voneinander beabstandeten Stellen befestigt sind, an denen der erste Abschnitt ein einziges Zugelement (40) oder eine Vielzahl von Zugelementen umfasst, die sich in Kontakt mit einander erstrecken, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass ein Endabschnitt von jedem der Zweige des zweiten Abschnitts durch die Abschlusskomponente (50) aufbewahrt wird, wobei sich die Zweige durch entsprechende Bohrungen (54) in der Abschlusskomponente (50) erstrecken, wobei jeder Zweig ein Sperrmittel (56) trägt, dass nicht durch mindestens einen Teil der Bohrung laufen darf.
  2. Nockeneinrichtung nach Anspruch 1, in der das oder jedes Zugelement eine Kabellänge (40) ist.
  3. Nockeneinrichtung nach Anspruch 1 oder 2, die eine Vielzahl von Zugelementen im ersten Abschnitt enthält, in dem die Zugelemente dadurch mit dem Kopf (10) verbunden sind, dass alle gestaucht, verlötet oder anderweitig innerhalb einer gemeinsamen Ausbildung des Kopfs fixiert sind.
  4. Nockeneinrichtung nach Anspruch 3, in der die gemeinsame Ausbildung eine gemeinsame Ausspaarungs- oder rohrförmige Ausbildung (22) ist.
  5. Nockeneinrichtung nach Anspruch 3, in der die Zugelemente unabhängig an entsprechenden beabstandeten Stellen an dem Kopf befestigt sind.
  6. Nockeneinrichtung nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, in der der erste Abschnitt innerhalb einer flexiblen Hülse (42) eingeschlossen ist.
  7. Nockeneinrichtung nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, in der der Auslöser (34) auf dem ersten Abschnitt des Schafts getragen wird, sodass er entlang des Schafts (12) gleiten kann.
  8. Nockeneinrichtung nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, wobei in dem zweiten Abschnitt Zugelemente (40) des Schafts (12) in einer Richtung weg von dem Kopf (10) auseinanderlaufen.
  9. Nockeneinrichtung nach Anspruch 8, wobei mindestens ein Teil der auseinanderlaufenden Zugelemente innerhalb eines Kanals in einem Teilerblock (46) enthalten ist, der eine konkave Oberfläche (48) aufweist, die vom Kopf abgewandt ist.
  10. Nockeneinrichtung nach Anspruch 9, in der der Teilerblock und die Abschlusskomponenten entlang der Länge der Zugelemente voneinander beabstandet sind.
  11. Nockeneinrichtung nach Anspruch 10, die eine Schlinge (62) aus flexiblem Material aufweist, die durch eine Öffnung (60) in der Abschlusskomponente (50) läuft.
  12. Nockeneinrichtung nach Anspruch 11, in der die Schlinge eine Endlosschleife ist, die zweimal durch die Öffnung läuft.
  13. Nockeneinrichtung nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, die ein Nockenelement (28) enthält, das einen Körper aufweist, an dem eine Arbeitsfläche (66) gebildet ist, in der auf dem Körper, wie hergestellt und außer auf dem Bereich der Arbeitsfläche, eine Beschichtung aufgebracht ist.
EP14186458.7A 2013-09-26 2014-09-25 Schutzvorrichtung zur Verwendung beim Klettern Active EP2853296B1 (de)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP15174664.1A EP2954937B1 (de) 2013-09-26 2014-09-25 Schutzvorrichtung zur verwendung beim klettern

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
GB1317116.0A GB2521998B (en) 2013-09-26 2013-09-26 Protection device for use in climbing

Related Child Applications (2)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP15174664.1A Division-Into EP2954937B1 (de) 2013-09-26 2014-09-25 Schutzvorrichtung zur verwendung beim klettern
EP15174664.1A Division EP2954937B1 (de) 2013-09-26 2014-09-25 Schutzvorrichtung zur verwendung beim klettern

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP2853296A1 EP2853296A1 (de) 2015-04-01
EP2853296B1 true EP2853296B1 (de) 2017-07-19

Family

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Family Applications (2)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP15174664.1A Active EP2954937B1 (de) 2013-09-26 2014-09-25 Schutzvorrichtung zur verwendung beim klettern
EP14186458.7A Active EP2853296B1 (de) 2013-09-26 2014-09-25 Schutzvorrichtung zur Verwendung beim Klettern

Family Applications Before (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP15174664.1A Active EP2954937B1 (de) 2013-09-26 2014-09-25 Schutzvorrichtung zur verwendung beim klettern

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EP (2) EP2954937B1 (de)
ES (2) ES2809569T3 (de)
GB (1) GB2521998B (de)

Families Citing this family (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP3302731A1 (de) * 2015-06-05 2018-04-11 Wild Country Limited Nockenvorrichtung
GB2615745A (en) 2022-02-07 2023-08-23 Excalibur Wales Ltd Protection device for use in climbing

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US4572464A (en) * 1983-10-17 1986-02-25 Phillips Douglas D Change-configuration climbing chock
US4645149A (en) * 1985-09-04 1987-02-24 Lowe Alpine Systems, Inc. Camming device for climbers
DE3712227A1 (de) * 1987-04-10 1988-10-27 Stefan Dipl Ing Engers Seilsicherung fuer ein bergsteiger-kletterseil
US4832289A (en) * 1987-08-11 1989-05-23 Waggoner David L Anchoring device for use in crevices
US5947800A (en) 1997-03-10 1999-09-07 Empire Abrasive Equipment Company Pneumatic suction surface blasting apparatus with an improved media delivery regulating system
DE19747838C2 (de) 1997-10-19 2001-07-12 Gp Granulate Pneumatic Geraete Verfahren und Vorrichtung zum trockenen Entfernen von Beschichtungen, Graffiti oder sonstigen oberflächlichen Verunreinigungen
US6342145B1 (en) 1999-07-14 2002-01-29 Nielsen & Bainbridge Llc Process for manufacturing multi-colored picture frames
ES2212868B1 (es) * 2001-06-28 2006-01-16 Mikel Apezetxea Goñi Dispositivo de levas para escalada.
US20040035992A1 (en) * 2002-08-23 2004-02-26 Watts Allan W. Rock-anchoring devices with non-metal components
US7959118B2 (en) * 2004-01-22 2011-06-14 Black Diamond Equipment, Ltd. Protection device stem design
US20050218282A1 (en) * 2004-03-30 2005-10-06 Metolius Mountain Products, Inc. Climbing cam placement indicator
US7258316B2 (en) * 2004-07-27 2007-08-21 Reeves Eric W Expansible hole anchor with enlarged chock-releasing striker head
ES2258940B1 (es) * 2006-05-09 2007-11-16 Aitzol Telleria Gabiria Anclaje de seguridad para escalada.
GB2477526A (en) * 2010-02-05 2011-08-10 Dmm Internat Ltd A cam device with multiple apertures to engage a sling

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Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
EP2954937A1 (de) 2015-12-16
EP2853296A1 (de) 2015-04-01
GB201317116D0 (en) 2013-11-06
GB2521998A (en) 2015-07-15
ES2639103T3 (es) 2017-10-25
ES2809569T3 (es) 2021-03-04
EP2954937B1 (de) 2020-05-06
GB2521998B (en) 2017-05-17

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