EP2785320A2

EP2785320A2 - Hair treatment agents containing 4-morpholino-methyl-substituted silicone(s) and thickening agent(s)

Info

Publication number: EP2785320A2
Application number: EP12784249.0A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Erik Schulze Zur Wiesche
Original assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Current assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date: 2011-12-02
Filing date: 2012-11-09
Publication date: 2014-10-08
Also published as: US20150023901A1; WO2013079299A3; WO2013079299A2; US9066892B2; DE102011087621A1

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic compositions which contain in a cosmetically acceptable medium at least one thickening agent and at least one 4-morpholino-methyl-substituted silicone of formula (V), in which A represents structural unit (I), (II) or (III) or an O-bound oligomeric or polymeric radical containing structural units of formulae (I), (II) or (III) or half of a connecting O-atom to a structural unit (III) or represents -OH; wherein * represents a bond to one of the structural units (I), (II) or (III) or an end group B (Si-bound) or D (O-bound); B represents a group -O-Si(CH₃)₃, -O-Si(CH₃)₂OH, -O-Si(CH₃)₂OCH₃; D represents a group -Si(CH₃)₃, -Si(CH₃)₂OH, -Si(CH₃)₂OCH₃; a, b and c represent integers between 0 and 1000, with the proviso a + b + c > 0; m, n and o represent integers between 1 and 1000. The cosmetic compositions improve numerous properties of the body surfaces treated with them, and, in addition to improved combing and improved touch, lead in particular to a reduction of the contact angles of the hair.

Description

08.1 1.2012

"Hair treatment agent containing 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone (s) and thickener (s)"

The invention relates to hair treatment compositions containing specifically substituted silicone (s) and the use of these agents for the cleaning and / or care of hair.

Keratin fiber care products affect the natural structure and properties of hair. Thus, for example, the wet and dry combability of the hair, the hold and the fullness of the hair can be optimized or the hair can be protected from increased splits following such treatments. It has therefore long been customary to subject the hair to a special aftertreatment. In this case, the hair is treated with special active ingredients, for example quaternary ammonium salts or special polymers, usually in the form of a rinse. Depending on the formulation, this treatment improves the combability, the hold and the fullness of the hair and reduces the splitting rate.

Furthermore, more recently so-called combination preparations have been developed to reduce the burden of the usual multi-stage process, especially in direct application by consumers. These preparations contain, in addition to the usual components, for example for the cleaning of the hair, in addition to active ingredients which were formerly reserved for the hair aftertreatment agents. The consumer thus saves an application step; At the same time, packaging costs are reduced because one product is less needed.

However, the known active ingredients can not cover all needs sufficiently. There is therefore still a need for active ingredients or combinations of active substances for cosmetic products with good care properties and good biodegradability. Especially in surfactant- and / or electrolyte-containing formulations, there is a need for additional skin care ingredients that can be easily incorporated into known formulations and are not weakened in their action due to incompatibilities with other ingredients.

Silicones, and among them, amino-functional silicones are known as conditioners in hair-treatment agents, and such products are widely used in the market. However, there is still a need to improve the effects achieved, in particular with regard to the grip, the combability, the softness and the volume of the hair or hairstyle and to reduce the amounts used.

It is an object of the present invention to provide silicone-containing hair treatment compositions which give the hair treated with them even better properties than hair treatment compositions containing known amodimethicones. In addition, equally good or better effects should be achieved even with significantly reduced quantities. In particular, the products should include the handle, combability, softness and volume of the hair or Improve the hairstyle and minimize the contact angle of water droplets that come on the treated hair, which is a measure of product performance.

It has now been found that particularly advantageous results are achieved by incorporating certain silicone (s) and thickening agents in hair treatment compositions.

A first subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one thickening agent and at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of the formula (V)

in the

A for a structural unit (I), (II) or (III) bonded via an -O-

or an oligomeric or polymeric radical attached via an -O-

Structural units of the formulas (I), (II) or (III) or half of a connecting

O atom to a structural unit (III) or is -OH,

* for a bond to one of the structural units (I), (II) or (III) or for a

End group B (Si-bonded) or D (O-linked),

B is a group -OH, -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ , -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ OH, -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ OCH ₃ ,

D is a group -H, -Si (CH ₃ ) 3, -Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ 0H, -Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ OCH ₃ ,

a, b and c are integers between 0 and 1000, with the proviso that a + b + c> 0 m, n and o are integers between 1 and 1000.

The agent according to the invention is a cosmetic agent. Cosmetic agents preferred according to the invention are selected from the group of shower gels, shower baths, Dentifrices, mouthwashes, hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hairsprays, hair conditioners, hair conditioners, hair wraps, hair tonics, perming solutions, hair dye shampoos, hair dyes, hair fixatives, hair dressings, hair styling preparations, hair lotions, mousses, hair gels, hair waxes or the like combinations.

Hair care agents in the context of the present invention are, for example, hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hair sprays, hair rinses, hair treatments, hair wraps, hair tonics, perming solutions, hair dye shampoos, hair dyes , Hair fixatives, hair dressings, hair styling preparations, hair lotions, mousses, hair gels, hair waxes or combinations thereof. In view of the fact that men often shy away from the use of several different agents and / or several application steps, means according to the invention are preferably agents which the man applies anyway. Preferred agents according to the invention are therefore shampoos, conditioners or hair tonics.

The compositions of the invention have improved cosmetic properties (in hair, for example, lightness, softness, entangleability, natural feel and airy hairstyle, brightness), and the effects are more persistent and persistent. In particular, these effects are resistant to many shampoos.

In addition, when applied to the skin (for example, by a foam bath or shower gel), the compositions of the invention result in improved suppleness of the skin.

The agents according to the invention contain as the first essential ingredient at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of the structural formula (V). This shows that the siloxane groups n and o do not necessarily have to be bound directly to a final grouping B or D, respectively. Rather, in preferred formulas (V) a> 0 or b> 0 and in particularly preferred formulas (V) a> 0 and b> 0, i. the terminal moiety B or D is preferably attached to a dimethylsiloxy moiety. Also in formula (V), the siloxane units a, b, c, n and o are preferably randomly distributed.

The silicones used according to the invention represented by formula (V) can be trimethylsilyl-terminated on both sides (D = -Si (CH ₃ ) _3, B = -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ ), but they can also be dimethylsilylhydroxy- or dimethylsilylmethoxy-terminated. Silicones particularly preferably used in the context of the present invention have at least one terminal dimethylsilylhydroxy group, ie are selected from silicones in which

B = -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ OH and D = -Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

B = -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ OH and D = -Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ OH

B = -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ OH and D = -Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ OCH ₃

B = -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ and D = -Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ OH

B = -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ OCH ₃ and D = -Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ OH means. These silicones lead to exorbitant improvements in the hair properties of the hairs treated with the agents according to the invention, in particular to a serious reduction in the contact angle.

The structural units of the formulas (I), (II) and (III) can be present randomly distributed in the molecule, but the silicones used according to the invention can also be block copolymers of blocks of the individual structural units, wherein the blocks can again be present statistically distributed. The ^* at the free valences of the structural units (I), (II) or (III) stands for a bond to one of the structural units (I), (II) or (III) or for an end group B (Si-bonded) or D (O-bound).

In formula (V), the radical A

for a structural unit (I), (II) or (III) or a group bonded via an -O- or

an oligomeric or polymeric radical bonded via an -O- and containing structural units of the formulas (I), (II) or (III)

- or half of a connecting O atom to a structural unit (III) or for -OH.

Thus formula (V) is specified to one of the formulas (Va), (Vb), (Vc), (Vd), (Ve) or (Vf):

(Vb)

In the structural unit (III), the radical A

for a structural unit (I), (II) or (III) or a group bonded via an -O- or

- or half of a connecting O atom to a structural unit (III) or for -OH.

In the former case, the structural unit (III) to one of the structural units (purple), (IIIb) or

(lllc) with m = n = o = 1 and A and D as defined above.

In the second case, in the above-mentioned formulas (IIIa), (IIIb) and (IIIc), the integers m, n and o for integers may be between 2 and 1000. The second case also covers oligomers or polymeric radicals which contain at least two different structural units of the formulas (I), (II) or (III), as shown in formula (IIId):

where a, b, and c are integers between 0 and 1000, with the proviso that a + b + c> 0 and n and o are integers between 1 and 1000.

In the third case A is half of a connecting O atom to a structural unit (III) (represents in the structural unit (Never) or for -OH (shown in the structural unit (Nif)

The structural unit (III) or the siloxane units o in the formula (V) can form via the group A nest or partial cage structures, if A stands for a half of a connecting O atom to a structural unit (III). Inventive hair treatment compositions containing silicones with corresponding 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silsequioxane partial structures are preferred according to the invention, since these silicones result in enormously improved combabilities and drastically reduced contact angles.

Cosmetic agents according to the invention are accordingly characterized in that they contain at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone which has structural units of the formula (VI)

in the

R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R 4, independently of one another, denote -H, -CH ₃ , a group D, a structural unit (I), (II) or (III) or an oligomeric or polymeric radical comprising structural units of the formulas (I), (II ) or (III) or

two of the radicals R1, R2, R3 and R4 for a structural unit -Si (R6) (R5) - with

R 5 = -CH ₃ or a structural unit of the formula (I) or (II) or (III) or an oligomeric or polymeric radical containing structural units of the formulas (I), (II) or (III)

R 6 = -OH, -CH ₃ , or a structural unit of the formula (I) or (II) or (III) or an oligomeric or polymeric radical containing structural units of the formulas (I), (II) or (III).

In preferred silicones of the formula (VI), at least one of the radicals R 1, R 2, R 3 or R 4 is an oligomeric or polymeric radical containing structural units of the formulas (I), (II) or (III). In further preferred silicones of the formula (VI), at least one of the radicals R 1, R 2, R 3 or R 4 is an oligomeric or polymeric radical containing structural units of the formulas (I) and (II). In still further preferred silicones of the formula (VI), at least one of the radicals R 1, R 2, R 3 or R 4 is an oligomeric or polymeric radical containing structural units of the formulas (I) and (II) and (III).

Preferably, at least one of the radicals R _1, R _2, R ₃ or R _{4 is} a - [- Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ -O] _m - grouping, ie an oligo- or polymer of the structural unit (I). In addition, the structural unit (II) or an oligo- or polymer thereof is preferably never alone, but always bound in a random distribution with further structural units of the formula (I) as one of the radicals R 1, R 2, R 3 or R 4 in the molecule.

Preferred silicones of the formula (VI) can be described by the formula (VI a)

in the

R ₁ , R ₂ and R 4, independently of one another, denote -H, -CH ₃ , a group D, a structural unit (I), (II) or (III) or an oligomeric or polymeric radical comprising structural units of the formulas (I), (II) or (III) stand or

two of the radicals R1, R2 and R4 for a structural unit -Si (R6) (R5) - with

R 6 = -OH, -CH ₃ , or a structural unit of the formula (I) or (II) or (III) or an oligomeric or polymeric radical containing structural units of the formulas (I), (II) or (III)

A is a structural unit (I), (II) or (III) attached via an -O- or an oligomeric or polymeric radical bonded via an -O- containing structural units of the formulas (I), (II) or (III) or Half of a connecting O atom to a structural unit (III) or is -OH,

D for a group -H; -Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ , -Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ OH, -Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ OCH ₃ ,

a, b and c stand for integers between 0 and 1000, with the proviso that a + b + c> 0 n and o stand for integers between 1 and 1000.

Further preferred silicones of the formula (VI) can be described by the formula (VI b)

in which the radicals and indices are as defined above.

Particularly preferred silicones of the formula (VI) can be described by the formula (VIc)

in which the radicals and indices are as defined above and the indices d and e stand for integers between 0 and 1000.

In the formulas (VI a), (VI b) and (VI c) n, preferably at least one of the groupings D is -Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ OH.

The silsequioxane structures may be even more pronounced in the silicones used according to the invention. What strengthens the beneficial effects. Particularly preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone which has structural units of the formula (VII)

for a structural unit (I), (II) or (III) bonded via an -O- or an oligomeric or polymeric radical bonded via an -O-

Structural units of the formulas (I), (II) or (III) or half of a connecting

O atom to a structural unit (III) or is -OH,

for a group -H; -Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ , -Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ OH, -Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ OCH ₃ , a radical is 4-morpholinomethyl,

for -H or the grouping

stands,

wherein the siloxane units m, n and o or a, b, c, x and y are present randomly distributed.

Particularly preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention comprise at least one silicone of the following formula (VII a)

(VII a) with the definitions as for formula (VII).

Very particularly preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention contain at least one silicone of the following formula (VII b)

(VII b) with the definitions as for formula (VII).

In the formulas (VII), (VII a) and (VII b), the bridging oxygen atoms between the morpholinomethyl-substituted silicon atoms can also be represented by a - [- Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ -O] _m grouping, ie an oligo- or polymer of the structural unit (I) to be extended. Corresponding hair treatment compositions according to the invention which contain at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone which has structural units of the formula (VIII)

in the

A for an attached via an -O- structural unit (I), (II) or (III) or an attached via an -O- oligomeric or polymeric radical

Structural units of the formulas (I), (II) or (III) or half of a connecting

O atom to a structural unit (III) or is -OH,

G1 to G9 independently of one another represent --O- or a group - [- Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ -O] _m - where m = 1 to

200 stand,

R is a residue 4-morpholinomethyl,

R6 is -H or the grouping

stands,

wherein the siloxane units m, n and o or a, b, c, x and y are present randomly distributed. Particularly preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention comprise at least one silicone of the following formula (VIII a)

(VIII a) with the definitions as for formula (VIII).

Very particularly preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention contain at least one silicone of the following formula (VIII b)

(VIII b) with the definitions as for formula (VIII). Regardless of which particular 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone is used in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention, agents containing a 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone in which more than 50 mole% of the structural units are dimethylsiloxy units, ie in which the structural unit (I) makes up at least half of all the structural units of the silicone used.

In other words, silicones are preferred in which m> (n + o) or (a + b + c)> (n + o).

Still more preferred cosmetic agents include a 4-morpholinomethyl substituted silicone in which more than 90 mole percent of the structural units are dimethylsiloxy units, i. in which the structural unit (I) makes up at least nine tenths of all the structural units of the silicone used.

In other words, silicones are preferred in which m> 10 (n + o) or (a + b + c)> 10 (n + o). Even more preferred cosmetic agents include a 4-morpholinomethyl substituted silicone in which more than 98 mole percent of the structural units are dimethylsiloxy units, i. in which the structural unit (I) makes up at least ninety-eight hundredths of all the structural units of the silicone used.

In other words, silicones are preferred in which m> 50 (n + o) or (a + b + c)> 50 (n + o). Still more preferred cosmetic agents include a 4-morpholinomethyl substituted silicone in which more than 98.5 mole percent of the structural units are dimethylsiloxy units, i. in which the structural unit (I) makes up at least nine hundred and eighty-five thousandths of all the structural units of the silicone used.

In other words, silicones are preferred in which m> 75 (n + o) or (a + b + c)> 75 (n + o). Even more preferred cosmetic agents include a 4-morpholinomethyl substituted silicone in which more than 99 mole percent of the structural units are dimethylsiloxy units, i. in which the structural unit (I) makes up at least nine tenths of all the structural units of the silicone used.

In other words, silicones are preferred in which m> 100 (n + o) or (a + b + c)> 100 (n + o).

In summary, preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone in which

m> (n + o) or (a + b + c)> (n + o), preferably

m> 10 (n + o) or (a + b + c)> 10 (n + o), more preferably

m> 50 (n + o) or (a + b + c)> 50 (n + o), more preferably

m> 75 (n + o) or (a + b + c)> 75 (n + o) and in particular

m> 100 (n + o) or (a + b + c)> 100 (n + o).

The or 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone (s) can be used in varying amounts depending on the purpose of the invention. Preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are characterized in that, based on their weight, 0.00001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.0001 to 7.5% by weight, is particularly preferred 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.01 to 3 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 1 wt .-% 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted (s) silicone (s) included.

It has been shown that the effect of the silicones used according to the invention can be increased even more if certain nonionic components are likewise used in the agents according to the invention. In addition, these nonionic components have positive effects on the storage stability of the compositions according to the invention. Nonionic components which are particularly suitable here are ethoxylates of decanol, undecanol, dodecanol, tridecanol, etc. Ethoxylated tridecanols have proven to be particularly suitable, which are incorporated with particular preference into the compositions according to the invention. According to the invention particularly preferred cosmetic compositions contain - based on their weight - 0.00001 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 to 3.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 2 wt .-%, more preferably 0.01 up to 1% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight branched, ethoxylated tridecanol (INCI name: trideceth-5) or α-isotridecyl-hydroxypolyglycol ether (INCI name: Trideceth-10) or mixtures thereof.

Preferred morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone (s) according to the invention have both hydroxyl and alkoxy groups. Cosmetic compositions particularly preferred according to the invention contain hydrohy-terminated (s) 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone (s) in which the molar ratio hydroxy / alkoxy is in the range from 0.2: 1 to 0.4: 1, preferably in the range from 1: 0.8 to 1: 1, 1.

The average molecular weight of the silicone is preferably from 2,000 to 200,000, and more preferably from 5,000 to 100,000, especially from 10,000 to 50,000 daltons. Cosmetic compositions wherein the weight average molecular weight of the 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of formula (V) contained therein is in the range of 2,000 to 1,000,000 gmol ^" , preferably 5,000 to 200,000 gmol ^{" 1} are preferred.

The average molecular weights of amino-substituted silicones can be measured, for example, by gel permeation chromatography (GPC) at room temperature in polystyrene. As columns Styragel columns μ, as eluent THF and as flow rate 1 ml / min can be selected. The detection preferably takes place by means of refractometry and UV meter.

The use of the 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicones of the formula (V) is preferably carried out as an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion may contain one or more surfactants. The surfactants may be of any type, preferably cationic and / or nonionic. The number-average average size of the silicone droplets in the emulsion is preferably between 3 nm and 500 nm, particularly preferably between 5 nm and 60 nm (inclusive) and in particular between 10 nm and 50 nm (inclusive).

Cosmetic compositions according to the invention in which the 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of the formula (V) is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion in which the number-average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion is in the range from 3 to 500 nm, preferably Range of 5 to 60 nm, are preferred according to the invention. Preferably, the 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicones of formula (V) are chosen such that the contact angle of human hair with water after treatment with a composition containing 2% (active ingredient) of said silicone is between 90 ° and 180 ° (inclusive), preferably between 90 and 130 ° (inclusive).

Another essential ingredient of the compositions of the invention is a thickening agent whose function is to increase the viscosity of the composition.

In preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention, the thickeners are selected from

(i.) associative thickeners;

(ii.) crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid;

crosslinked (. iii) copolymers of (meth) acrylic acid and alkyl (C- |. ₆₎ acrylate;

(iv) nonionic homopolymers and copolymers containing ethylenically unsaturated ester-type and / or amide-type monomers;

(v.) homopolymers of ammonium acrylate or copolymers of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide;

(vi.) polysaccharides;

(vii) fatty alcohols with C12-30;

(viii.) fatty acid amides.

"Associative thickeners" according to the invention are thickeners with both hydrophilic and hydrophobic units, in particular with at least one fatty chain C ₈ -C ₃₀ and at least one hydrophilic unit.

According to preferred cosmetic compositions containing as associative thickener is an associative polymer, which is selected from

(i.) nonionic amphiphilic polymers containing at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic moiety;

(ii.) anionic amphiphilic polymers containing at least one hydrophilic moiety and at least one fatty chain moiety;

(iii.) cationic amphiphilic polymers containing at least one hydrophilic moiety and at least one fatty chain moiety;

(iv) amphoteric amphiphilic polymers containing at least one hydrophilic moiety and at least one fatty chain moiety,

wherein the fatty chains have 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

The nonionic amphiphilic polymer having at least one fatty acid chain and at least one hydrophilic unit is preferably selected from:

(1) Celluloses modified with groups having at least one fatty chain;

(2) hydroxypropyl guar compounds modified with groups having at least one fatty chain; (3) urethane polyethers containing at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl or alkenyl groups having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms;

(4) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and hydrophobic monomers with fatty chain;

(5) copolymers of alkyl (. C | ₆₎ methacrylates or alkyl (. C | ₆₎ acrylates and of amphiphilic monomers containing at least one fatty chain;

(6) copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and hydrophobic monomers containing at least one fatty chain.

Examples of (1) are hydroxyethylcelluloses having groups which contain at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl, or mixtures thereof, the alkyl groups being preferably selected from C ₈ -C ₂ 2, such as the product Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS ( Alkyl C16) from Aqualon, or the product Bermocoll EHM 100 from Berol Nobel, or alkylphenols having polyalkylene glycol ether groups, such as the product AMERCELL POLYMER HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) nonyl phenol ether sulfate) from Amerchol.

Examples of (2) are the product Esaflor HM22 (C22 alkyl chain) from Lamberti, MiraCare XC95-3 (C14 alkyl chain) and RE205-1 (C20 alkyl chain) from Rhodia Chimie.

Examples of (3) are the products Dapral T 210 and T 212 Dapral from Akzo or the products Aculyn Aculyn 44 and 46 from Rohm & Haas.

Examples of (4) are Antaron V216 or V216 GANEX (vinyl pyrrolidone / hexadecene copolymer) from ISP and Antaron V220 or V220 GANEX (vinyl pyrrolidone / eicosene) from ISP.

An example of (5) is the oxyethylenated copolymer of methyl methacrylate / stearyl acrylate sold by Goldschmidt under the name Antil 208.

An example of (6) is the copolymer of polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate.

Cosmetic compositions which are preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the nonionic amphiphilic polymers containing at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit are chosen from

(1) Celluloses modified with groups having at least one fatty chain;

(2) hydroxypropyl guar compounds modified with groups having at least one fatty chain;

(3) urethane polyethers containing at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl or alkenyl groups having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms;

(4) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and hydrophobic monomers with fatty chain;

Among the anionic amphiphilic polymers of the invention having at least one hydrophilic and at least one fatty chain are those having at least one allyl ether unit having a fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit of an ethylenically unsaturated anionic Monomer, especially acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred are allyl ethers having a fatty chain corresponding to the monomer of the formula (M-III):

CH ₂ = C (R 1) CH ₂ -OB _n R (M-III)

wherein R 1 is -H or -CH ₃ , B denotes an ethylene oxide moiety, n is zero or an integer between 1 and 100, R is a hydrocarbon radical selected from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, cycloalkyl having 10 to 30 C atoms, preferably 10 to 24 and even more especially 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

Particularly preferred units of the formula (M-III) are those in which R1 = -H, n = 10, and R is a stearyl radical (C18).

Among these anionic amphiphilic polymers, particularly preferred are acrylates having from 20 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, from 5 to 60% by weight of lower alkyl (meth) acrylates, from 2 to 50% by weight of allyl ethers having a fatty chain of the formula (M-III) and 0 to 1 wt.% Crosslinker. Commercially available is, for example, a copolymer of diallyl phthalate, (meth) acrylate, allyl divinylbenzene dimethacrylate, (poly) ethylene glycol and methylene-bis-acrylamide.

Particularly preferred terpolymers of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate, polyethylene glycol (10 EO) stearyl alcohol ethers (steareth 10) are sold under the names SALCARE SC 80 and SALCARE SC90, which are 30% aqueous emulsions of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate, and steareth-10. Allyl ethers (40/50/10).

Preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the anionic amphiphilic polymers containing at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one unit having a fatty chain are among the compounds containing at least one fatty chain allyl ether unit and at least one hydrophilic unit selected from an ethylenically unsaturated, anionic monomer, compounds containing at least one hydrophilic unit of the type of an olefinically unsaturated carboxylic acid and at least one hydrophobic unit exclusively of the type of an alkyl (C-> ₃₀ ) ester of an unsaturated carboxylic acid, and copolymers of methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / dimethyl mefa - Isopropenyl benzyl isocyanate of an ethoxylated alcohol are selected.

The anionic amphiphilic polymers may be further selected from those containing at least one hydrophilic moiety of olefinically unsaturated carboxylic acids and at least one hydrophobic moiety of the (C 10 -C 30) alkyl ester type of unsaturated carboxylic acid. The hydrophilic unit of the olefinically unsaturated carboxylic acid type corresponds, for example, to the monomer of the formula (M-IV):

H ₂ C = C (R 1) C (O) -OH (M-IV)

in which R1 is selected from -H, -CH ₃ and -C ₂ H ₅ , ie acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and ethacrylic acid units. And the hydrophobic unit of the (Ci ₀ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl ester of an unsaturated carboxylic acid corresponds, for example, to the monomer of the formula (V):

H ₂ C = C (R 1) C (O) -OR 2 (MV) is in which R1 is selected from -H, _-CH3 and -C2H5 (ie, acrylate, methacrylate and ethacrylate

Units), R 2 is selected from C 10 -C 30 alkyl radicals, for example C 12 -C 22 -alkyl radical.

Examples of (C ₁ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids are lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate

Decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates,

Lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and

Dodecyl.

Representative anionic amphiphilic polymers which can be used are also polymers of a mixture of monomers comprising

(i) acrylic acid esters of the formula (M-VI)

H ₂ C = C (R 1) C (O) -OR 2 (M-VI)

₃ is selected in which R1 is selected from H, -CH (ie, acrylate, methacrylate units), R2 of C ₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl radicals chosen, for example Ci ₂ -C ₂ 2-alkyl group and a crosslinking agent; such as polymers of 95% to 60% by weight of the acrylic acid (hydrophilic moiety), 4% to 40% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic moiety) and 0% to 6% by weight crosslinking of polymerizable monomers or polymers derived from 98% 96% of the weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1% to 4% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0.1% to 0.6% by weight crosslinking of polymerizable monomers or

(ii) acrylic acid and lauryl methacrylate, such as the polymers formed from 66% by weight of acrylic acid and 34% by weight of lauryl methacrylate.

The crosslinking agent may be a monomer containing a group having at least one other polymerizable group whose unsaturated bonds are not conjugated to each other. Mention may be made, for example, of polyallyl ethers such as polyallylsucrose and polyallylpentaerythritol. Among the polymers mentioned above, for example, Goodrich's products under the trade names Pemulen TR1, Pemulen TR2, Carbopol 1382 and others, for example, Pemulen TR1 and the product Coatex SX from Seppic are preferred.

Also to be mentioned under anionic amphiphilic fatty acid chain polymers are the methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / ethoxylated alkyl dimethyl meta-isopropenyl benzyl isocyanate copolymers, which are sold under the name Viscophobe DB 1000 by Amerchol.

Cationic amphiphilic polymers can also be used, for example, quaternized cellulose derivatives and polyacrylates having amino side groups.

The quaternized cellulose derivatives are, for example, selected quaternized celluloses having groups which form at least one fatty chain such as alkyl, arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups having at least 8 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof. Quaternized hydroxyethyl celluloses having groups which are at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups having at least 8 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof are preferred. Quaternized and non-quaternized polyacrylates having amino side groups and, for example, hydrophobic groups such as steareth 20 (polyoxyethylenated (20) stearyl alcohol) and (C 10 -C 30) alkyl PEG-20 itaconates are also preferred. The alkyl radicals of the above-mentioned quaternized celluloses and hydroxyethyl celluloses contain, for example, 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals are z. B. selected from phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl and anthryl groups. Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethyl celluloses from C8-C30 fatty acid chains are the products Quatrisoft LM 200, LM-X Quatrisoft 529-18-A, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18B (C12 alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529 -8 (C18). sold by the company Amerchol, and the products Crodacel QM, Crodacel QL (C12 alkyl) and Crodacel QS (C18) from the company Croda. Examples of polyacrylates having amino side chains are polymers 8781-124B or 9492-103 and Structure Plus from National Starch.

By amphoteric amphiphilic polymers having at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty acid chain unit are, for example, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium / acrylic acid / C10-C30 alkyl methacrylate copolymers, wherein the alkyl radical is, for example, a stearyl radical

The associative thickening agents in the cosmetic compositions can be used, for example, in solution or in dispersion at a concentration of 1% active material in water and having a viscosity measured with a Rheomat RM 180 Rheometer at 25 ° C greater than 0.1 cps and preferably greater than 0.2 cp, may be used at a shear rate of 200 s ^".

In summary, preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the cationic amphiphilic polymers are chosen from quaternized cellulose derivatives and polyacrylates having aminated side chains.

Further preferred cosmetic compositions are characterized in that the amphoteric amphiphilic polymers containing at least one fatty chain, among the copolymers of methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylic acid / Al kyl (Cio ₃₀ ) methacrylate are selected.

(ii) Among the crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers which may be mentioned are those with an allyl alcohol ether of the sugar series, such as the products sold under the name Carbopol 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 by Goodrich, or the products under the names Synthalen M and Synthalen K from the company 3 VSA.

(iii) Crosslinked copolymers of (meth) acrylic acid and C1-C6 alkyl acrylates may be selected from crosslinked copolymers of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate in the form of an aqueous dispersion containing 38% active material. These are sold under the name Viscoatex 538C by Coatex. Crosslinked copolymers of acrylic acid and ethyl acrylate in the form of an aqueous dispersion containing 28% active material are sold under the name Aculyn 33 by Rohm & Haas. Crosslinked copolymers of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate comprise an aqueous dispersion made with 30% active material and sold under the name Carbopol Aqua SF-1 by Noveon.

(iv) Among the nonionic homopolymers or copolymers of ethylenically unsaturated monomers of ester and / or amide type, mention may be made of: cyanoamer P250 from Cytec (polyacrylamide); PMMA MBX-8C from the company US cosmetics (methyl methacrylate / Ethylene glycol dimethacrylate copolymer); Acryloid B66 from Rohm & Haas (butyl methacrylate / methyl methacrylate copolymer), BPA 500 from Kobo (polymethyl methacrylate).

(v) Ammonium acrylate homo which may be mentioned are the product Microsap PAS 5193 from Hoechst.

Copolymers of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide are sold as a product under the name Bozepol C Nouveau or product PAS 5193 from Hoechst

(vi) The polysaccharides are selected, for example, from glucans, modified and unmodified starches (derived, for example from cereals, for example wheat, corn or rice, from vegetables, for example yellow peas and tubers, for example potatoes or cassava), Amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, dextran, cellulose and its derivatives (methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethyl-hydroxyethylcellu loses and carboxymethylcelluloses), mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans galacturonans, chitin, chitosan, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids and pectins, alginic acid and alginates, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agar, glycosaminoglucans, gum arabics, gum tragacanths, ghatti gum, karaya gum, locust bean gum, galactomannans, such as guar gum, and nonionic derivatives (hydroxypropyl guar) and xanthan gums, and Mixtures thereof. Among the strengths that can be used include z. As macromolecules in the form of polymers, the elementary units, anhydroglucose units. The number of these units and their compound makes it possible to distinguish between amylose (linear polymer) and amylopectin (branched polymer). The relative proportions of amylose and amylopectin, as well as the degree of polymerization, can vary depending on the botanical origin of the starch.

The botanical origin of the starch molecules may be cereals or tubers. For example, the starches may be selected from corn starch, rice starch, cassava, tapioca, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum starch and pea starch.

Starches are typically in the form of a white powder which is insoluble in cold water and which has an elementary particle size in the range of 3 to 100 microns. The starches can be optionally C1-C6 hydroxyalkylated or C1-C6 acylated (eg acetylated). The starches may also have been subjected to heat treatments. Distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate, for example the products of the references Prejel VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinised hydroxypropylated manioc distarch phosphate) or Prejel TK1 (gelatinized manioc distarch phosphate) or Prejel 200 (gelatinized acetylated manioc distarch phosphate) from the company Avebe or Structure ZEA from National Starch (hydroxypropylated corn distarch phosphate) may also be used.

The guar gums can be changed or unchanged. The unchanged guar gums are, for example, the products Vidogum GH 175 from Unipectine and Meyro-Guar 50 and Jaguar C from Meyhall. The modified nonionic guar gums are, for. With C1 C6-hydroxyalkyl groups modified. Hydroxyalkyl groups may be, for example, hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

In summary, preference is given to cosmetic compositions according to the invention in which the polysaccharides are selected from glucans, modified or unmodified starch compounds, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, dextranes, celluloses and their derivatives, mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitin, chitosans, Glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids and pectins, alginic acid and alginates, arabinogalactans, carrageenins, agar-agar, glycosaminoglucans, gum arabic, tragacanth, ghatti gum, karaya gum, locust bean gum, galactomannans, xanthan gum and mixtures thereof.

Such nonionic guar gums optionally substituted with hydroxyalkyl groups are marketed, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP120, Jaguar DC 293 and Jaguar HP 105 from Rhodia Chimie (Meyhall) or under the name Galactasol 4H 4FD2 from Aqualon ,

Among the celluloses, for example, hydroxyethyl cellulose and hydroxypropyl celluloses can be used. Mention may be made of the products Klucel EF, Klucel H, Klucel LHF, Klucel MF and Klucel G from Aqualon.

(vii) The fatty alcohols are, for. B. from myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol.

Cosmetic compositions preferred according to the invention contain the thickener (s) in a total amount of from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight and in particular from 025 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The compositions of the invention contain depending on the application further essential ingredients. Cleansing or conditioning compositions such as shampoos or conditioners contain at least one surfactant, surfactants depending on the field of use being referred to as surfactants or as emulsifiers and being selected from anionic, cationic, zwitterionic, ampholytic and nonionic surfactants and emulsifiers.

Cosmetic agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.5 to 70% by weight, preferably from 1 to 60% by weight and in particular from 5 to 25% by weight of anionic and / or nonionic and / or cationic and / or amphoteric surfactant (s). Particularly preferred surfactants to be used according to the invention from the above-mentioned. Groups are disclosed in detail in the priority document on pages 26 to 37.

The care effects of the compositions according to the invention can be further enhanced by using certain care substances. Preferably, these are selected from certain groups of known care substances, since these care substances formulation technology and from Care effect harmonize excellently with the inventively used 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicones.

Cosmetic agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they additionally contain care substance (s) in amounts of from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 7.5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight Wt .-% and in particular 0.05 to 2.5 wt .-%, with preferred care substance (s) are selected from the group

i-L-carnitine and / or its salts;

ii. Panthenol and / or panthothenic acid;

iii. the 2-furanones and / or their derivatives, in particular pantolactone; iv. Taurine and / or its salts;

V. niacinamide;

vi. ubiquinone

vii. Ectoin;

viii. Allantoin.

In hair treatment compositions according to the invention of this embodiment, the 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicones are combined with at least one care substance which is selected from L-carnitine and / or its salts, panthenol and / or panthothenic acid, 2-furanones and / or their derivatives, in particular pantolactone, Taurine and / or its salts, niacinamide, ubiquinones, ectoine, allantoin. These caring ingredients are described below. L-carnitine (IUPAC name (R) - (3-carboxy-2-hydroxypropyl) -A /, A /, A / -trimethylammonium hydroxide) is a naturally occurring, vitamin-like substance. As betaine, L-carnitine can form addition compounds and double salts. L-carnitine derivatives which are preferred according to the invention are in particular selected from acetyl-L-carnitine, L-carnitine fumarate, L-carnitine citrate, lauroyl-L-carnitine and particularly preferably L-carnitine tartrate. The L-carnitine compounds mentioned are available, for example, from Lonza GmbH (Wuppertal, Germany).

Preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain -0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.005 to 7.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.01 to 5% by weight and in particular 0, based on their weight, Containing from 5 to 2.5% by weight of L-carnitine or L-carnitine derivatives, preferred L-carnitine derivatives being selected from acetyl-L-carnitine, L-carnitine fumarate, L-carnitine citrate, lauroyl-L-carnitine and in particular L-carnitine tartrate.

Panthenol (IUPAC name: (+) - (R) -2,4-dihydroxy-N- (3-hydroxypropyl) -3,3-dimethylbutyramide) is converted to pantothenic acid in the body. Pantothenic acid is a vitamin from the group of B vitamins (vitamin B5).

Preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 2.5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight. Panthenol ((±) -2,4-dihydroxy-A / - (3-hydroxypropyl) -3,3-dimethyl-butyramide).% and especially 0.25 to 1 wt.%. Cosmetic agents preferred according to the invention contain, based on their weight, from 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.025 to 12.5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0 to 1 7.5% by weight and in particular 0.5 to 5% by weight of at least one 2-furanone derivative of the formula (Fur-I) and / or of the formula (Fur-II)

in which the radicals R to R ^{0 are} independently of one another

Hydrogen, -OH, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl or hydroxymethyl radical,

--C ₂ - C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical,

--C ₂ - C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical,

--C ₂ - C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triaminocarbon radical,

a group -OR, with R as a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono- , Di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical,

- a group -NR ² R ¹³ , wherein R ² and R ³ each independently represent hydrogen, a methyl, a C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical,

a group -COOR ⁴ , where R ⁴ is hydrogen, a methyl, a C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated hydrocarbon radical, or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbon hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triaminocarbyl radical,

a group -CONR ⁵ R ¹⁶ , where R ⁵ and R ⁶ each represent hydrogen, methyl, a C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ - saturated mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or Trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triaminocarbon radical,

a group -COR ¹⁶ , where R ⁶ is a methyl, a C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or -or- or a diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triaminocarbon radical,

- a group -OCOR ^7, wherein R ⁷ is a methyl, a C ₂ - C ₃₀ - saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated branched, or linear hydrocarbon group, a C ₂ - C ₃₀ - saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di-, tri- or polyhydroxy hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₃₀ -saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di-, tri- or polyamino hydrocarbon radical,

with the proviso that in the case when R ⁷ and R ^{8 are} -OH and at the same time R ⁹ or R ^{0 is} hydrogen, the remaining group R ⁹ or R ^{0 is} not a dihydroxyethyl. In a particularly preferred embodiment of the teaching according to the invention is used as the compound according to the formula (Fur-I)

(R) - (-) - 4-hydroxymethyl-T-butyrolactone and / or

D, L-4-hydroxymethyl-γ-butyrolactone and / or

(S) - (+) - 4-hydroxymethyl-γ-butyrolactone and / or

R - (-) - 2-hydroxy-3,3-dimethyl-γ-butyrolactone and / or

D, L-2-hydroxy-3,3-dimethyl-γ-butyrolactone and / or

S (+) - 2-hydroxy-3,3-dimethyl-γ-butyrolactone and / or

4-hydroxy-2,5-dimethyl-3 (2H) -furanone and / or

Tetrahydro-5-oxo-2-furancarbonsäure and / or

Tetrahydro-5-oxo-2-furancarboxylic acid, Na salt and / or

Tetrahydro-5-oxo-2-furanecarboxylic acid, K salt and / or

2,5-dihydro-5-methoxy-2-furanone and / or

Dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3 / - /) - furanone

used. In a very particularly preferred embodiment of the teaching according to the invention is used as a compound according to the formula (Fur-I) dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) - furanone. Another, more preferably usable care substance which has activating properties is taurine. According to the invention, preferred cosmetic agents contain, based on their weight, from 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.025 to 12.5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0 to 1 7.5% by weight and in particular 0.5 to 5% by weight of taurine (2-aminoethanesulfonic acid).

Another preferred group of care agents in the compositions of the invention are

Vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors. These are described below:

The group of substances referred to as vitamin A include retinol (vitamin A-1) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As a vitamin

A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters,

Vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as palmitate and acetate in

Consideration. The agents according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include u. a.

Vitamin B-ι (thiamine)

Vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin)

Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide which is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.

Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group (see below). Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. The said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0, 1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the inventive compositions preferably in amounts of 0, 1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent.

Vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid. Vitamin H. Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-cf] - imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile prevailed. Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.

In summary, preference is given to cosmetic agents according to the invention which, based on their weight, are from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 4% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.25 to 3.5% by weight preferably 0.5 to 3 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 2.5 wt .-% vitamins and / or pro-vitamins and / or vitamin precursors containing, preferably, the groups A, B, C, E, F and H, with preferred agents 2,4-dihydroxy-A / - (3-hydroxypropyl) - 3,3-dimethyl-butyramide, provitamin B ₅ ) and / or pantothenic acid (vitamin B ₃ , vitamin B ₅ ) and / or niacin, niacinamide or nicotinamide (vitamin B ₃ ) and / or L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and / or thiamine (vitamin B) and / or riboflavin (vitamin B ₂ , vitamin G) and / or biotin ( Vitamin B ₇ , vitamin H) and / or folic acid (vitamin B ₉ , vitamin B _c or vitamin M) and / or vitamin B ₆ and / or vitamin B ₁₂ .

It has been shown that certain quinones have a special suitability as a care substance. As a further care substance, the compositions according to the invention can therefore contain from 0.0001 to 5% by weight of at least one biochinone of the formula (Ubi)

(Ubi)

contained in the

X, Y, Z are independently -O- or -NH- or NR- or a chemical bond

R ¹ , R ² , R ³ independently represent a hydrogen atom or an optionally substituted aryl group or an optionally substituted (Ci-Ce) alkyl group or a hydroxyalkyl group or a polyhydroxyalkyl group or an optionally substituted (d-Ce) - alkylene group, or a (C 1 -C 6) -acyl radical, preferred radicals being selected independently of one another from -H, CH 3, -CH 2 CH 3, - (CH 2) 2 CH 2, -CH (CH 3) 2, - (CH 2) 3 CH 3, -CH (CH 3) CH 2 CH 3, - CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃

R is -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₂ CH ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ ,

(CH ₂ ) ₃ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃

stands for values from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 15 and in particular for 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10. Particularly preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5% by weight and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0, 1 wt. % of at least one ubiquinone and / or at least one ubiquinol and / or at least one derivative of these substances, preferred agents containing a ubiquinone of the formula (Ubi)

in which n stands for the values = 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10, particularly preferably 10 (coenzyme Q10).

As an alternative to the particularly preferred ubiquinones or in addition to them, the agents according to the invention may also contain plastoquinones. Here, preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they are 0.0002 to 4 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 2 wt .-%, more preferably 0.0015 to 1 and in particular 0.002 to 0.5 wt .-% of at least one plastoquinone of the formula (Ubi-b)

in which n stands for values of 1 to 20, preferably of 2 to 15 and in particular 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, whereby particularly preferred means Plastochinon PQ-9.

As a further care enhancer, the agents according to the invention may contain ectoin. Ectoine ((4S) - 2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydropyrimidine-4-carboxylic acid) is a natural product belonging to the group of compatible solutes. Cosmetic agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 2.5% by weight and in particular 0.1 to 1 wt .-% (S) -2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid (ectoine) and the physiologically acceptable salts of this compound and / or (S, S) -5 -Hydroxy-2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid (hydroxyectoine) and the physiologically acceptable salts of this compound.

Another remedy is allantoin. Allantoin (5-ureidohydantoin, A / - (2,5-dioxo-4-imidazolidinyl) urea) is the final product of nucleic acid degradation, especially of purine, in various animal species, especially mammals, in addition to uric acid. Allantoin is used in cosmetics in skin creams, sunscreens, shampoos, toothpaste and anti-sweating (hyperhidrosis) and skin irritants. It accelerates cell building, cell formation or cell regeneration and calms the skin. The healing of hard-healing wounds is also supported, but allantoin has no antiseptic properties.

According to the invention, particularly preferred cosmetic agents contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 2.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 1% by weight 5-ureido-hydantoin (allantoin).

To improve the elasticity and strengthen the internal structure of the hair treated with the agents according to the invention, the compositions according to the invention may contain purine and / or purine derivatives as a care substance. In particular, the combination of purine and / or purine derivatives with ubiquinones and / or plastoquinones as a care substance means that the hairs treated with appropriate agents show, inter alia, higher measured values in differential thermal analysis and improved wet and dry combabilities.

Purine (7H-imidazo [4,5-cf] pyrimidine) is not freely present in nature, but forms the main body of the purines. Purines, in turn, are a group of important compounds of widespread nature involved in human, animal, plant and microbial metabolic processes, which differ from the parent by substitution with OH, NH ₂ , SH in the 2-, 6-, and 8-positions and / or with CH ₃ in 1-, 3-, 7-position derived. Purine can be prepared, for example, from aminoacetonitrile and formamide. Purines and purine derivatives are often isolated from natural products, but are also synthetically accessible in many ways.

Preferred agents according to the invention contain purine and / or purine derivatives in narrower quantitative ranges. Here are inventively preferred cosmetic agents characterized in that they - based on their weight - 0.001 to 2.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0025 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.01 to 0, 1 wt .-% purine (s) and / or purine derivative (s).

Among purine, the purines and the purine derivatives, some representatives are particularly preferred according to the invention. Cosmetic agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, as a care substance, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.0025 to 1% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.005 to 0.5% by weight. and in particular 0.01 to 0, 1 wt .-% purine (s) and / or purine derivative (s), wherein preferred agents purine and / or purine derivative (s) of the formula (Pur-I)

(Pur-I) in which the radicals R, R ² and R ^{3 are} independently selected from -H, - OH, NH ₂ , -SH and the radicals R ⁴ , R ⁵ and R ^{6 are} independently selected from -H, -CH ₃ and -CH ₂ - CH ₃ , the following compounds being preferred:

Purine (R = R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Adenine (R = NH ₂ , R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Guanine (R = OH, R ² = NH ₂ , R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Uric acid (R = R ² = R ³ = OH, R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Hypoxanthine (R = OH, R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

6-purethiol (R = SH, R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

6-thioguanine (R = SH, R ² = NH ₂ , R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Xanthine (R = R ² = OH, R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Caffeine (R = R ² = OH, R ³ = H, R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = CH ₃ )

- Theobromine (R = R ² = OH, R ³ = R ⁴ = H, R ⁵ = R ⁶ = CH ₃ )

Theophylline (R = R ² = OH, R ³ = H, R ⁴ = CH ₃ , R ⁵ = CH ₃ , R ⁶ = H).

It is also advantageous to use purine or purine derivatives and biochinones in a certain ratio to each other. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred in which the weight ratio of purine (derivative (s)) and biochinone (s) is 10: 1 to 1: 100, preferably 5: 1 to 1:50, particularly preferably 2: 1 to 1:20 and in particular 1: 1 to 1:10.

As already mentioned, caffeine is a particularly preferred purine derivative, and coenzyme Q10 is a particularly preferred biochinone. Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.0025 to 1% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.005 to 0.5% by weight and in particular 0.01 to 0.1 wt .-% caffeine and 0.0002 to 4 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 2 wt .-%, more preferably 0.0015 to 1 and in particular 0.002 to 0.5 wt .-% coenzyme Q10 included.

As a conditioner, the compositions of the invention may also contain flavonoids. The flavonoids are a group of water-soluble plant dyes and play an important role in the metabolism of many plants. They belong together with the phenolic acids to the polyphenols. There are well over 6500 different flavonoids known, which can be divided into flavonols, flavones, flavanones, isoflavonoids and anthocyanins.

According to the invention flavonoids from all six groups can be used, with certain representatives from the individual groups are preferred as a care substance because of their particularly intense action. Preferred flavonols are quercetin, rutin, kaempferol, myricetin, isorhamnetin, preferred flavanols are catechin, gallocatechin, epicatechin, epigallocatechin gallate, theaflavin, thearubigin, preferred flavones are luteolin, apigenin, morin, preferred flavanones are hesperetin, naringenin, eriodictyol, preferred isoflavonoids are genistein , Daidzein, and preferred anthocyanidins (anthocyanins) are cyanidin, delphinidin, malvidin, pelargonidin, peonidin, petunidin. Cosmetic agents which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they

- Based on their weight - 0.001 to 2.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0025 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.01 to 0, 1 wt. % Flavonoids, especially flavonols, more preferably 3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavone (quercetin) and / or 3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavone-3-O-rutinoside (rutin), contain.

Preference is also the use of bisabolol and / or bisabololoxides as a care substance in the inventive compositions. Here, preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are those which additionally contain 0.001 to 5 wt.%, Preferably 0.01 to 4 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.02 to 2.5 wt.% And in particular 0.1 to 1.5 Wt .-% bisabolol and / or oxides of bisabolol, preferably (-) - contain alpha-bisabolol.

Creatine is also suitable as a care substance according to the invention. Creatine (3-methylguanidinoacetic acid) is an organic acid found in vertebrates and the like. a. contributes to supplying the muscles with energy. Creatine is synthesized in the kidney, liver and pancreas. It is formally derived from the amino acids glycine and arginine and is 95% present in skeletal muscle. Particularly preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention contain - based on their weight

0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably 0.025 to 12.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0 , 5 to 5% by weight / V-methylguanidinoacetic acid (creatine).

The compositions according to the invention may contain, in addition to the ingredients mentioned above and optional further ingredients, other substances which prevent, alleviate or cure hair loss. In particular, a content of hair root stabilizing agents is advantageous. These substances are described below:

Propecia (Finasteride) is currently the only preparation that is approved worldwide and has been proven in many studies to be effective and tolerable. Propecia causes less DHT to form from testosterone.

Minoxidil is probably the oldest proven hair restorer with or without supplemental additives. For the treatment of hair loss, it may only be used for external application. There are hair lotions containing 2% -5% minoxidil, as well as gels with up to 15% minoxidil. The effectiveness increases with the dosage, in hair waters Minoxidil is only up to 5% share soluble. In many countries, hair tonic with up to 2% minoxidil content is available without prescription.

To combat the hormonal influences on the hair follicles spironolactone in the form of hair tonic and in combination with minoxidil can be used for external application. Spironolactone acts as an androgen receptor blocker, ie. the binding of DHT to the hair follicles is prevented.

In summary, cosmetic agents according to the invention are preferred which additionally contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 5% by weight of hair root stabilizing substances, in particular minoxidil and / or finasteride and / or ketoconazole. Additional antidandruff active ingredients (for example climbazole, piroctone olamine or zinc pyrithione) are used to purposefully reduce the amount of dandruff causing the dandruff, to restore the normal bacterial count to the normal percentage and to reduce the scaling to the physiological level. However, laboratory tests have shown that the different species representatives of Pityrosporum ovale react differently to the antidandruff active ingredients. In order to maximally combat all dandruff is therefore a combination of anti-dandruff active ingredients most successful.

In summary, cosmetic agents according to the invention are preferred which additionally contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 5% by weight of antidandruff active ingredients, in particular piroctone olamine (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-tri-methylpentyl) -pyridine-2 (1 H) -one, compound with 2-aminoethanol, 1: 1) and / or zinc pyrithione and / or selenium sulfide and / or climbazole and / or salicylic acid or fumaric acid.

In addition to the care agents, the agents according to the invention may contain further care substances. Their presence is not absolutely necessary for achieving the effects according to the invention, but further effects, such as a pleasant touch or a pleasant application feel, can result from the use of these care substances.

As a further ingredient, the agents according to the invention may with particular preference contain one or more amino acids. Particularly preferred amino acids which can be used according to the invention are from the group glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, tryptophan, proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, glutamine, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, lysine, arginine, histidine, β Alanine, 4-aminobutyric acid (GABA), betaine, L-cystine (L-Cyss), L-carnitine, L-citrulline, L-theanine, 3 ', 4'-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine (L-dopa), 5'-hydroxy-L-tryptophan, L-homocysteine, S-methyl-L-methionine, S-allyl-L-cysteine sulfoxide (L-alliin), L-trans-4-hydroxyproline, L-5-oxoproline ( L-pyroglutamic acid), L-phosphoserine, creatine, 3-methyl-L-histidine, L-ornithine, whereby both the individual amino acids and mixtures can be used. Preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino acids in narrower quantitative ranges. Here, preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 1, 5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.075 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 0.25 wt .-% amino acid (s), preferably from the group glycine and / or alanine and / or valine and / or lysine and / or leucine and / or threonine.

As a further component, the agents according to the invention may contain at least one carbohydrate from the group of monosaccharides, disaccharides and / or oligosaccharides. Here, preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 4.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0, 1 to 4 wt %, more preferably 0.5 to 3.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.75 to 2.5 wt .-% carbohydrate (s) selected from monosaccharides, disaccharides and / or oligosaccharides containing preferred carbohydrates selected are made Monosaccharides, in particular D-ribose and / or D-xylose and / or L-arabinose and / or D-glucose and / or D-mannose and / or D-galactose and / or D-fructose and / or sorbose and / or L. Fucose and / or L-rhamnose, disaccharides, in particular sucrose and / or maltose and / or lactose and / or trehalose and / or cellobiose and / or gentiobiose and / or isomaltose.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain based on their weight

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of glucose monohydrate,

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of sucrose,

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of fructose.

As already mentioned, preferred agents according to the invention contain (a) amino acid (s).

Particularly preferred amino acids which can be used according to the invention are from the group glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, tryptophan, proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, glutamine, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, lysine, arginine, histidine, β Alanine, 4-aminobutyric acid (GABA), betaine, L-cystine (L-Cyss), L-carnitine, L-citrulline, L-theanine, 3 ', 4'-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine (L-dopa), 5'-hydroxy-L-tryptophan, L-homocysteine, S-methyl-L-methionine, S-allyl-L-cysteine-sulfoxide (L-alliin), L-frans-4-hydroxyproline, L-5-oxoproline ( L-pyroglutamic acid), L-phosphoserine, creatine, 3-methyl-L-histidine, L-ornithine, whereby both the individual amino acids and mixtures can be used.

Preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino acids in narrower quantitative ranges. Here, preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they additionally contain from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, more preferably from 0 to 15% by weight and in particular from 0 to 15% by weight , 2 to 0.5 wt .-% amino acid (s), preferably (one) amino acid (s) from the group glycine and / or alanine and / or valine and / or lysine and / or leucine and / or threonine.

0.005 to 0.015 wt .-% caffeine and 0.75 to 1, 5 wt .-% glucose monohydrate and

0.1 to 0.25% by weight of glycine,

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of sucrose and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of glycine,

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of fructose and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of glycine,

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of glucose monohydrate and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of alanine,

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of sucrose and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of alanine,

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of fructose and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of alanine,

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of glucose monohydrate and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of valine, 0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of sucrose and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of valine,

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of fructose and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of valine.

The 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicones used according to the invention can of course be used together with further conventional silicones.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention contain the further silicone (s) preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.25 to 7% by weight and in particular from 0.5 to 5% by weight. %, in each case based on the total mean.

Preferred silicones are described below.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula Si-I

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [0-Si (CH ₃ ) 2] x -O-Si (CH ₃ ) 3 (Si-I),

in which x is a number from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 50, more preferably from 0 to 20 and in particular 0 to 10.

These silicones are called DIMETHICONE according to the INCI nomenclature. In the context of the present invention, the compounds of the formula Si-I which are used on page 57 of the priority document are preferably used as the silicone, where (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si-O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ , (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si-O - (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si-O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ and / or are particularly preferred.

Of course, mixtures of o.g. Silicones may be included in the compositions of the invention.

Preferred silicones which can be used according to the invention have viscosities of 0.2 to 2 mm ² s ^-1 at 20 ° C., silicones having viscosities of 0.5 to 1 mm ² s ^{-1 being} particularly preferred.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino-functional silicones. Such silicones may e.g. through the formula

M (R _a Q _b SiO ₍₄ - _a- _b _{) / 2)} x (R _c SiO _(4- _{c) / 2) y} M

wherein R in the above formula is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical having 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, Q is a polar radical of the general formula -R HZ, wherein R is a divalent linking group attached to hydrogen and the radical Z. Z is an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one amino-functional group; "a" assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b" assumes values in the range of about 1 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c" is a number in the range from about 1 to about 3, and x is a number ranging from 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and y is a number ranging from about 20 to about 10,000 , preferably from about 125 to about 10,000, and most preferably from about 150 to about 1,000, and M is a suitable silicone end group as known in the art, preferably trimethylsiloxy. Non-limiting examples of the radicals represented by R include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; preferably R is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R is methyl. Examples of R include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, - CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, - OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CC (O) ₂ CH ₂ -, -C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -.

Z is an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one functional amino group. A possible formula for Z is NH (CH ₂ ) _Z NH ₂ , wherein z is 1 or more. Another possible formula for Z is -NH (CH ₂ ) _Z (CH ₂ ) _ZZ NH, wherein both z and zz are independently 1 or more, which structure includes diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl. Z is most preferably a -NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ radical. Another possible formula for Z is - N (CH ₂ ) _Z (CH ₂ ) _ZZ NX ₂ or -NX ₂ , wherein each X of X _{2 is} independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0.

Q is most preferably a polar, amine functional group of the formula -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ . In the formulas, "a" assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b" assumes values in the range of about 2 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c "is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3. The molar ratio of the R _a Q _b SiO ( _4. _a - _b ) / 2 units to the R _c SiO ₍₄ - _{C) / 2} units is in the range from about 1: 2 to 1:65, preferably from about 1: 5 to about 1:65, and most preferably from about 1:15 to about 1:20. When one or more silicones of the above formula are used, then the various variables can be used Substituents in the above formula may be different for the various silicone components present in the silicone blend.

Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-II)

R _'a G ₃ _ _a -Si (OSiG ₂₎ _n - (OSiG _b R' ₂ _ _b) _m -0-SiG ₃ _ _a -R _'a (Si-II),

contain, in which means:

G is -H, a phenyl group, -OH, -O-CH ₃ , -CH ₃ , -O-CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -O-

CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -O-CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -O-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -O-CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH _(CH3) _2, -0-CH (CH ₃₎ CH ₂ CH _3, - CH (CH ₃₎ CH ₂ CH _3, -0-C (CH ₃₎ _3, -C (CH ₃₎ _3;

a is a number between 0 and 3, in particular 0;

b is a number between 0 and 1, in particular 1,

m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2,000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n is preferably from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably assumes values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10,

- R ^' is a monovalent radical selected from

o -QN (R ") - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N (R") ₂

o -QN (R ") ₂

o -QN ⁺ (R ") ₃ A ^"

o -QN ⁺ H (R ") ₂ A ^"

o -QN ⁺ H ₂ (R ") A ^"

o -QN (R ") - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N ⁺ R" H ₂ A ^" ,

wherein each Q is a chemical bond, -CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -C (CH ₃ ) ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ C (CH ₃ ) ₂ -, -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₂ -,

R "is identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH ₂ - CH (CH ₃ ) Ph, the Ci. ₂₀ -alkyl radicals, preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , - CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ , and A represents an anion, which is preferably selected from chloride, bromide, iodide or methosulfate.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-IIa)

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [0-Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ ] _n [OSi (CH ₃ )] _m -OSi (CH ₃ ) ₃ (Si-Ila),

I

CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ NH (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ₂

in which m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably values of 0 to 1999 and in particular of 49 to 149 and m preferably values of 1 to 2000 , in particular from 1 to 10 assumes.

These silicones are referred to as trimethylsilylamodimethicones according to the INCI declaration. Particular preference is also given to compositions according to the invention which are an amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-IIb)

R- [Si (CH ₃₎ ₂ -0] _n1 [Si (R) -0] _m - [Si (CH ₃₎ _2] _n2 -R (Si-IIb),

I

(CH ₂ ) ₃ NH (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ₂

in which R is -OH, -O-CH ₃ or a -CH ₃ group and m, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2,000, preferably between 50 and 150 , where the sum (n1 + n2) preferably assumes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.

These silicones are referred to as amodimethicones according to the INCI declaration.

Regardless of which amino-functional silicones are used, agents according to the invention which contain an amino-functional silicone whose amine number is above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g and in particular above 0.4 meq / g, are preferred , The Amine number stands for the Mil Ii equivalents amine per gram of the amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and also expressed in mg KOH / g.

Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, based on their weight, they contain 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.25 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0, 5 to 5 wt.% Amino-functional silicone (s) included.

The INCI CYCLOMETHICONE designated cyclic dimethicones are inventively used with preference. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred which contain at least one silicone of the formula Si-II

fO-SiiCH ^ L- (Si-III) in which x is a number from 3 to 200, preferably from 3 to 10, more preferably from 30 to 7 and especially 3, 4, 5 or 6, stands.

The silicones described above have a backbone composed of -Si-O-Si units. Of course, these Si-O-Si units may also be interrupted by carbon chains. Appropriate molecules are accessible by chain extension reactions and are preferably used in the form of silicone-in-water emulsions.

Agents which are likewise preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula Si-IV

R _{3 is} -Si- [O-SiR 2] x- (CH ₂ ) _n - [O-SiR ₂ ] _y -O-SiR 3 (Si-IV),

in which R is identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) Ph, the Ci. ₂₀ -alkyl radicals, preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ , x or y is a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 0 to 10, more preferably from 0 to 7 and in particular 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6, and n is a number from 0 to 10, preferably from 1 to 8 and especially for 2, 3, 4, 5, 6.

The silicones are preferably water-soluble. Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one water-soluble silicone.

As a further ingredient, the agents according to the invention may contain at least one proteolipid of the formula (P-1)

R ^' -XR ^" (PI),

in the

R ^'is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated

Hydrocarbon radical having 1 1 to 24 carbon atoms,

R ^"means a protein, a peptide or a protein hydrolyzate,

X represents -C (O) O- or -N ⁺ (R '" ₂ ) R ^iv - or -N (R'") R ^iv - or -C (O) -N (R ^V ) R ^VI -,

R '"- (CH ₂ ) _X -CH ₃ where x = 0-22 and

R ^{IV is} -CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ - or - (CH ₂ ) _X - where x = 0-22;

R ^V and R ^{V are} independently -H or - (CH ₂ ) _X -CH ₃ with x = 0-22; with the proviso that R ^"is keratin or a keratin hydrolyzate when X is -C (O) O- Preferably within certain amounts, the proteolipids are used in the agents according to the invention Preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention contain, by weight, 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.02 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 2.5% by weight, more preferably 0, 1 to 1% by weight and in particular 0, 15 to 0.5% by weight of proteolipid (s) The radical R ^" in formula (P1) represents a peptide or a protein or a protein hydrolyzate. When X = -C (O) O-, R ^{"is selected} from the group of keratin or keratin hydrolyzate.

Preferred radicals R ^" are oligopetides which have at least one amino acid sequence Glu-Glu-Glu, wherein the amino group may be free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be free or deprotonated.

In this formula as well as in the formulas below, the parenthetized hydrogen atom of the amino group, as well as the parenthetical group of the acid function, means that the groups concerned may be present as such (then an oligopeptide having the relevant number of amino acids as shown (see above) Formula 3) or that the amino acid sequence is present in an oligopeptide, which also contains other amino acids - depending on where the other amino acid (s) is / are bound, the parenthetical components of the above formula by the / the other Oligopeptides for the purposes of the present application are peptide amide-linked condensation amides of amino acids comprising at least 3 and at most 25 amino acids

In hair treatment compositions of the above-described preferred embodiment, the oligopeptide (= the radical R ^" ) comprises 5 to 15 amino acids, preferably 6 to 13 amino acids, particularly preferably 7 to 12 amino acids and in particular 8, 9 or 10 amino acids.

Depending on whether further amino acids are bound to the sequence Glu-Glu-Glu and depending on the nature of these amino acids and depending on the selection of the radicals R ^' and optionally R ^m and R ^IV , the molecular weight of the proteolipid contained in the inventive compositions vary. Cosmetic agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the proteolipid has a molar mass of from 1000 to 30,000 Da, preferably from 1250 to 25,000 Da, more preferably from 1,500 to 20,000 Da and in particular from 2,000 to 15,000 Da. As R ^{"oligopeptides} are preferably used, which not only consist of the three glutamic acids, but contain further bound to this sequence amino acids. These additional amino acids are preferably selected from certain amino acids are while certain other agents according to the invention are less preferred.

Thus, it is preferred if the radical R ^"of the proteolipids used in the agents according to the invention contains no methionine It is further preferred if the radical R ^{" of} the proteolipids used in the agents according to the invention contains no cysteine and / or cystine.

It is further preferred if the radical R ^"of the proteolipids used in the agents according to the invention contains no aspartic acid and / or asparagine The radical R ^"of the proteolipids used in the agents according to the invention contains no serine and / or threonine.

In contrast, it is preferred if the radical R ^" contains the proteolipids used in the agents according to the invention tyrosine It is further preferred if the radical R ^" contains the proteolipids used in the agents according to the invention leucine. It is further preferred if the radical R '^{' of} the proteolipids used in the agents according to the invention comprises isoleucine.It is further preferred if the radical R ^{'' of} the proteolipids used in the agents according to the invention contains arginine. It is further preferred if the radical R ^" contains the proteolipids used in the agents according to the invention valine.

The radicals R ^{"which are} particularly preferred oligopeptides or amino acid sequences contained in the preferred oligopeptides are described below:

A particularly preferred oligopeptide additionally contains tyrosine, which is preferably linked via its acid function to the Glu-Glu-Glu sequence. Cosmetic agents which are preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the oligopeptide contained in the proteolipids of the formula (I) as the radical R ^"has at least one amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu, where the amino group is free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be free or deprotonated.

Another particularly preferred oligopeptide additionally contains isoleucine, which is preferably linked to the Glu-Glu-Glu sequence via its amino function. Cosmetic agents which are preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the oligopeptide contained in the proteolipids of the formula (I) as the radical R ^"has at least one amino acid sequence Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile, where the amino group is free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be free or deprotonated.

Oligopeptides which have both the abovementioned amino acids (tyrosine and isoleucine) are preferred according to the invention. Hair treatment agents according to the invention are particularly preferred in which the oligopeptide contained in the proteolipids of the formula (I) as the radical R ^"has at least one amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile, where the amino group is free or protonated and the carboxy- Groups may be free or deprotonated.

Further preferred oligopeptides additionally contain arginine, which is preferably bound to isoleucine. Cosmetic agents preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the oligopeptide contained in the proteolipids of the formula (I) as the radical R ^"has at least one amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg, where the amino groups are free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be free or deprotonated.

Still further preferred oligopeptides additionally contain valine, which is preferably bound to the arginine. Cosmetic agents which are further preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the oligopeptide contained in the proteolipids of the formula (I) as the radical R ^"has at least one amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val, the amino groups being free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be present in free or deprotonated form. Even more preferred oligopeptides additionally contain leucine, preferably valine is bound. Cosmetic agents which are further preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the oligopeptide contained in the proteolipids of the formula (I) as the radical R ^"has at least one amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val-Leu, where the amino groups free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be present in a free or deprotonated state.Also preferred oligopeptides additionally contain leucine, which is preferably bound to the tyrosine.Other preferred cosmetic agents are characterized in that the remaining in the proteolipids of the formula (I) R ^" contained oligopeptide at least one amino acid sequence Leu-Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val-Leu

wherein the amino groups may be free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be free or deprotonated.

In summary, in particular, cosmetic agents according to the invention are preferred which contain at least one proteolipd of the formula (I) in which R ^"has at least one amino acid sequence Leu-Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val-Leu, where the amino groups free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be free or deprotonated.

As already mentioned, R ^{"is selected} from the group of keratin or keratin hydrolyzate when X = -C (O) O- In all other cases, the radical R ^" in formula (P1) can be for a peptide or a protein or a protein hydrolyzate with protein hydrolysates being preferred. Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins). According to the invention, protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal origin can be used.

Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois® ^® (Interorgana) Collapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ^® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ^® (Croda) sold.

Preferred according to the invention is the use of protein hydrolysates of plant origin, eg. Soybean, almond, rice, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ^® (Cognis), diamine ^® (Diamalt) ^® (Inolex) and Crotein ^® (Croda) available.

Preferably, irrespective of the choice of X in formula (P1), the radical R ^{"is selected} from keratin or keratin hydrolysates Preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one proteolipid of formula (P1) in which R ^" for keratin or a keratin hydrolyzate is.

In particular, cosmetic agents according to the invention are preferred which contain at least one proteolipd of the formula (II) in which R ^{m is} -CH ₃ and R ^{IV is} - (CH ₂ ) _X - where x = 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 stands.

Furthermore, particularly preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one proteolipd of the formula (I) in which X represents -N ⁺ (CH 3) ₂ -CH ₂ -CH (OH) - CH ₂ - and R ^'is - (CH ₂ ) i ₇ -CH ₃ .

Likewise preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one proteolipd of the formula (P1) in which X is -C (O) -O- and R ^'is - (CH ₂ ) 7 -CH ₃ .

It has proven advantageous to use protein hydrolysates in addition to the proteolipids. These enhance the effect of the proteolipids and are in turn amplified in their effects. The protein hydrolyzates have been described above as R ^"detailed summary are preferred cosmetic composition of the invention which additionally -. Based on its weight - 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 7 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0, 1 to 5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.25 to 2.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 2.0 wt .-% protein hydrolyzate (s), preferably keratin hydrolyzate (s) included.

For aesthetic reasons, "clear" consumer products are often preferred, and cosmetic agents which are preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized by being transparent or translucent.

In the context of the present invention, transparent or translucent is understood as meaning a composition which has an NTU value of less than 100. The NTU value (Nephelometrie Turbidity Unit, NTU) is a unit used in water treatment for turbidity measurements in liquids. It is the unit of turbidity measured with a calibrated nephelometer.

Furthermore, in a preferred embodiment of the invention, an agent according to the invention may also contain UV filters (I). The UV filters to be used according to the invention are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties. On the contrary, all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and whose absorption maximum lies in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) range are suitable. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.

The UV filters used according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters,

Cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.

The UV filters (I) are contained in the compositions according to the invention usually in amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Levels of 0.4-2.5 wt .-% are preferred.

The compositions of the invention may further comprise a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its

Derivatives (J) included. Preferably, the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or

Ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion contains not only hydrogen but also one to three Cp to C ₄ -

Carries alkyl groups. The sodium salt is most preferred. The amounts used in the compositions according to the invention are preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent, more preferably 0, 1 to 5, and in particular 0, 1 to 3 wt.%.

In addition, it may prove advantageous if in the inventive compositions

Penetrants and / or swelling agents (M) are included. For example, these are too include urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, diols and triols, and in particular 1,2-diols and 1,3-diols such as 1,2-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-dodecanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,6-hexanediol , 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 4-butanediol.

Advantageously in the context of the invention, short-chain carboxylic acids (N) may additionally support the active substance complex (A). Short-chain carboxylic acids and their derivatives in the context of the invention are understood to mean carboxylic acids which may be saturated or unsaturated and / or straight-chain or branched or cyclic and / or aromatic and / or heterocyclic and have a molecular weight of less than 750. For the purposes of the invention, preference may be given to saturated or unsaturated straight-chain or branched carboxylic acids having a chain length of from 1 to 16 C atoms in the chain, very particular preference being given to those having a chain length of from 1 to 12 C atoms in the chain.

The short-chain carboxylic acids according to the invention may have one, two, three or more carboxy groups. Preferred within the meaning of the invention are carboxylic acids having a plurality of carboxy groups, in particular di- and tricarboxylic acids. The carboxy groups may be wholly or partly present as esters, acid anhydride, lactone, amide, imidic acid, lactam, lactim, dicarboximide, carbohydrazide, hydrazone, hydroxam, hydroxime, amidine, amidoxime, nitrile, phosphonic or phosphate ester. The carboxylic acids used according to the invention may of course be substituted along the carbon chain or the ring skeleton. The substituents of the carboxylic acids used according to the invention include, for example, C 1 -C 8 -alkyl, C 2 -C 8 -alkenyl, aryl, aralkyl and aralkenyl, hydroxymethyl, C 2 -C 8 -hydroxyalkyl, C 2 -C 8 -hydroxyalkenyl , Aminomethyl, C 2 -C 8 -aminoalkyl, cyano, formyl, oxo, thioxo, hydroxy, mercapto, amino, carboxy or imino groups. Preferred substituents are C 1 -C 8 alkyl, hydroxymethyl, hydroxy, amino and carboxy groups. Particularly preferred are substituents in the alpha position. Very particularly preferred substituents are hydroxyl, alkoxy and amino groups, where the amino function may optionally be further substituted by alkyl, aryl, aralkyl and / or alkenyl radicals. Furthermore, preferred carboxylic acid derivatives are the phosphonic and phosphate esters.

In a further preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention may contain emulsifiers (F). The agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total agent. The compositions according to the invention may preferably contain at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 to 18. Nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value of 10 to 15 may be particularly preferred according to the invention.

It has furthermore proven to be advantageous if, in addition to the polymer (s) from the group of cationic and / or amphoteric polymers, further polymers (G) are contained in the agents according to the invention. In a preferred embodiment, the inventive agents therefore added more polymers, both anionic and nonionic polymers have been found to be effective.

It is also possible according to the invention that the preparations comprise a plurality of, in particular two, different polymers of the same charge and / or in each case an ionic and an amphoteric and / or nonionic polymer.

The other polymers (G) are contained in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0, 1 to 5, in particular from 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, are particularly preferred.

Another object of the present invention is a method for the treatment of keratinous fibers, in which a hair treatment agent according to the invention is applied to the keratinic fibers and rinsed again after a contact time of a few seconds to 45 minutes.

With respect to preferred embodiments of the method according to the invention mutatis mutandis applies to the means of the invention.

Another object of the present invention is the use of hair treatment compositions according to the invention

for conditioning keratin substances and / or

to improve looseness, softness, gloss and / or combability and to facilitate the styling of keratinous substances and / or to improve the remanence of the conditioning action in hair washing and / or

to improve the wet and dry combabilities and / or to improve the gloss and / or

to improve the moisture balance of keratinic fibers and / or to protect the keratinic fibers from oxidative damage and / or to prevent the re-greasing of keratinous fibers and / or

for increasing the washing resistance of dyed keratinic fibers.

Also with regard to preferred embodiments of the uses according to the invention mutatis mutandis applies to the means of the invention.

Claims

claims

Cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one thickening agent and at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of the formula (V)

in the

A for a structural unit (I), (II) or (III) bonded via an -O-

or an oligomeric or polymeric radical attached via an -O-

Structural units of the formulas (I), (II) or (III) or half of a connecting

O atom to a structural unit (III) or is -OH,

* for a bond to one of the structural units (I), (II) or (III) or for a

End group B (Si-bonded) or D (O-linked),

Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone in which

m> (n + o) or (a + b + c)> (n + o), preferably

m> 10 (n + o) or (a + b + c)> 10 (n + o), more preferably m> 50 (n + o) or (a + b + c)> 50 (n + o), more preferably

m> 75 (n + o) or (a + b + c)> 75 (n + o) and in particular

m> 100 (n + o) or (a + b + c)> 100 (n + o).

3. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that it - based on their weight - 0.00001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 to 7.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.01 to 3 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 1 wt .-% 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted (s) silicone (s).

4. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it - based on their weight - 0.00001 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 to 3.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 2 wt .-%, more preferably 0.01 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 0.5 wt .-% branched, ethoxylated tridecanol (INCI name: Trideceth-5) or oiso-tridecyl-u hydroxypolyglycolether (INCI name: Trideceth-10) or mixtures thereof.

5. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it contains hydrohy-terminated (s) 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted (s) silicone (s), in which the molar ratio hydroxy / alkoxy in the range of 0.2 : 1 to 0.4: 1, preferably in the range of 1: 0.8 to 1: 1, 1.

6. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the weight average molecular weight of the 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of the formula (V) in the range of 2,000 to 1,000,000 gmol ¹ , preferably in the range of 5,000 to 200,000 gmol ^"1 lies.

7. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of the formula (V) is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion in which the number average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion in the range of 3 to 500 nm, preferably in the range of 5 to 60 nm.

8. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the thickeners are selected from:

(i.) associative thickeners;

(ii.) crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid;

(iii.) crosslinked copolymers of (meth) acrylic acid and alkyl (D- ₆ ) acrylate;

(vi.) polysaccharides;

(vii) fatty alcohols with C12-30;

(viii.) fatty acid amides.

9. A cosmetic composition according to claim 8, characterized in that the associative thickener is an associative polymer which is selected from

wherein the fatty chains have 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

10. Cosmetic composition according to claim 8, characterized in that the nonionic amphiphilic polymers containing at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit are preferably selected from

(1) Celluloses modified with groups having at least one fatty chain;

(4) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and hydrophobic monomers with fatty chain;

(5) copolymers of alkyl (Ci_ ₆ ) methacrylates or alkyl (Ci_ ₆ ) acrylates and amphiphilic monomers containing at least one fatty chain;

A cosmetic composition according to claim 8, characterized in that the anionic amphiphilic polymers containing at least one hydrophilic moiety and at least one fatty chain moiety are selected from compounds containing at least one fatty chain allyl ether moiety and at least one hydrophilic moiety is an ethylenically unsaturated, anionic monomer, compounds containing at least one hydrophilic unit of the type of an olefinically unsaturated carboxylic acid and at least one hydrophobic unit exclusively of the type of an alkyl (Ci. ₃₀ ) ester of an unsaturated carboxylic acid, and copolymers methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / dimethyl -mefa- isopropenyl-benzyl isocyanate of an ethoxylated alcohol.

12. Cosmetic composition according to claim 8, characterized in that the cationic amphiphilic polymers are chosen from quaternized cellulose derivatives and polyacrylates having aminated side chains.

13. Cosmetic composition according to claim 8, characterized in that the amphoteric amphiphilic polymers containing at least one fatty chain, among the Copolymers of methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylic acid / Al kyl (Ci ₀ - 3 ₀ ) methacrylate are selected.

14. Cosmetic composition according to claim 8, characterized in that the polysaccharides among the glucans, modified or unmodified starch compounds, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, dextranes, celluloses and their derivatives, mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitin , Chitosans, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids and pectins, alginic acid and alginates, arabinogalactans, carrageenins, agar-agar, glycosaminoglucans, gum arabic, tragacanth, ghatti gum, karaya gum, locust bean gum, galactomannans, xanthan gum and mixtures thereof are selected.

Cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 15, characterized in that it contains the thickening agent (s) in a total amount of from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0 , 1 to 10 wt .-% and in particular from 025 to 5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the composition contains.

16. A method for the treatment of keratinic fibers, characterized in that a hair treatment composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15 is applied to the keratinic fibers and rinsed again after an exposure time of a few seconds up to 45 minutes.

17. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15

for conditioning keratin substances and / or

to improve the wet and dry combabilities and / or to improve the gloss and / or

for increasing the washing resistance of dyed keratinic fibers.