EP2773316A2 - Cosmetic or dermatological water-in-oil emulsions having a certain urea and polyglyceryl-4-diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacate content - Google Patents

Cosmetic or dermatological water-in-oil emulsions having a certain urea and polyglyceryl-4-diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacate content

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Publication number
EP2773316A2
EP2773316A2 EP12778732.3A EP12778732A EP2773316A2 EP 2773316 A2 EP2773316 A2 EP 2773316A2 EP 12778732 A EP12778732 A EP 12778732A EP 2773316 A2 EP2773316 A2 EP 2773316A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
cosmetic
polyglyceryl
diisostearate
urea
water
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
EP12778732.3A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Stephanie Von Der Fecht
Alexander Filbry
Silke Heinecke
Rainer Kröpke
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Beiersdorf AG
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf AG
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf AG filed Critical Beiersdorf AG
Publication of EP2773316A2 publication Critical patent/EP2773316A2/en
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06Emulsions
    • A61K8/064Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/42Amides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological water-in-oil emulsions containing urea and polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate.
  • Urea is considered in about 2% preparations as granulation (as granulation tissue is called the typical young, vascular-rich connective tissue, which is formed in the wound and ulcer healing or in chronic inflammation and after some time in scar tissue is transformed).
  • the dermatologist makes use of the hygroscopic (hydrophilic) effect of the urea, e.g. in the treatment of ichthyosis ("fish scale disease"), psoriasis and atopic dermatitis.
  • Hygroscopic substances primarily urea, retain moisture in the cornea as a natural moisturizing factor. If the water content in the horny layer (caused by urea deficiency) falls below 15%, e.g. In atopic eczema, the skin becomes dry, brittle and cracked. Similar to atopic dermatitis, psoriasis also lacks urea in the epidermis. The result is a strong dehydration of the affected skin areas.
  • urea In cosmetic skin preparations, urea is used as a substance that binds moisture in the skin (1 to 2%). A 10% aqueous solution of urea is bactericidal. After all, urea - which can be used both in pharmacy and cosmetics - has a keratolytic or keratoplastic effect (has a softening effect on the keratin of the skin) as well as relieves itching. Due to its polar structure, it holds the water in the skin and thereby keeps it smoothness and suppleness.
  • the effect of the active ingredient allantoin is also based on urea, as it is split off from the allantoin.
  • the problem is that just natural oils in combination with urea are difficult to formulate.
  • ethoxylated emulsifiers For the development of stable water-in-oil emulsions, ethoxylated emulsifiers have always had to be resorted to. As a result, it is often necessary to add sensory additives to the product in order to achieve a pleasant sensory perception of the product, since ethoxylated compounds tend to impart some tackiness to the cosmetic formulation.
  • the object of the present invention was to eliminate the disadvantages of the prior art.
  • the object is achieved by cosmetic or dermatological water-in-oil emulsions containing
  • Polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate is characterized by an approximate structural element as follows
  • R 1 COO, R 2 COO and R 3 COO can independently of one another be isostearate and / or polyhydoxystearate, and n assumes values of about 2 to 3.
  • the molar ratio of polyhydroxystearate to isostearate should be about 1: 2.
  • the prior art discloses W / O emulsions with 5% urea, based on or ethyoxylated emulsifiers. These preparations are unstable with very high urea concentration (> 5%) or extremely viscous and therefore very sticky.
  • the weight ratio of urea on the one hand Polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearates / sebacate on the other hand from the range of 100: 1 to 1 to 100, preferably 10: 1 to 1 to 10, particularly preferably 2: 1 to 1: 2.
  • Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention advantageously contain 0.01 to 60 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 25 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1 to 10 wt .-% of urea, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention advantageously contain 0.0001 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 2.5 wt .-% of polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearates / Sebacate, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations are applied according to the invention in the usual manner for cosmetics on the skin and / or hair in sufficient quantity.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention may contain cosmetic or galenic adjuvants such as are commonly used in such preparations, e.g. Preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, foaming inhibitors, dyes, pigments having a coloring effect, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common ingredients of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, Polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
  • cosmetic or galenic adjuvants such as are commonly used in such preparations, e.g. Preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, foaming inhibitors, dyes, pigments having a coloring effect, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common ingredients of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, Polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
  • antioxidants which are suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as favorable antioxidants.
  • the amount of the aforementioned antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 1-10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of Preparation.
  • the cosmetic or dermatological preparation in the sense of the present invention is a solution or emulsion or dispersion, it is possible to use as solvent: Water or aqueous solutions
  • Oils such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, but preferably castor oil; Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fats, preferably esters of fatty acids with lower C-number alcohols, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, glyceryl glucose, NMF complex, ceramides, cholesterol, sterols or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids of low C number or with fatty acids; Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products.
  • Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fats preferably
  • mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used.
  • alcoholic solvents water can be another ingredient.
  • the cosmetic or dermatological preparation in the sense of the present invention is a solution or emulsion or dispersion, it is possible to use as solvent:
  • Oils such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, but preferably castor oil; Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fats, preferably esters of fatty acids with lower C-number alcohols, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids of low C number or with fatty acids;
  • Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products.
  • mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used.
  • alcoholic solvents water can be another ingredient.
  • Suitable propellants for sprayable from aerosol containers cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations in the context of the present invention the usual known volatile, liquefied propellants, such as hydrocarbons (propane, butane, isobutane) are suitable, which can be used alone or in mixture with each other. Also, compressed air is advantageous to use.
  • hydrocarbons propane, butane, isobutane
  • compressed air is advantageous to use.
  • propellants which would be useful in the practice of the present invention in the form of aerosol preparations, but which should be avoided due to adverse environmental effects or other concomitant conditions, especially fluorocarbons and chlorofluorocarbons (US Pat. CFC).
  • Cosmetic preparations in the context of the present invention may also be present as gels which, in addition to an effective content of the active ingredient according to the invention and solvents customarily used for it, preferably water, also organic thickening agents, e.g. Gum arabic, xanthan gum, sodium alginate, cellulose derivatives, preferably methylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose or inorganic thickening agents, e.g. For example, aluminum silicates such as bentonites, or a mixture of polyethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol stearate or distearate.
  • the thickener is present in the gel e.g. in an amount between 0, 1 and 30 wt .-%, preferably between 0.5 and 15 wt .-%, included.
  • the preparations may advantageously contain further substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of filter substances being e.g. 0, 1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular 1 to 6 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations in order to provide cosmetic preparations, which protect the skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also serve as sunscreen.
  • the total amount of filter substances being e.g. 0, 1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular 1 to 6 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations in order to provide cosmetic preparations, which protect the skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also serve as sunscreen.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

Disclosed are cosmetic or dermatological water-in-oil emulsions having a certain (a) urea and (b) polyglyceryl-4-diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacate content.

Description

Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Hamburg  Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Hamburg
Kosmetische oder dermatologische Wasser-in-ÖI-Emulsionen mit einem Gehalt an Harnstoff und Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearat/Polyhydroxystearat/Sebacat. Cosmetic or dermatological water-in-oil emulsions containing urea and polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate.
Die vorliegende Erfindung betrifft Kosmetische oder dermatologische Wasser-in-ÖI-Emulsionen mit einem Gehalt an Harnstoff und Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearat/Polyhydroxystearat/- Sebacat. The present invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological water-in-oil emulsions containing urea and polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate.
Harnstoff gilt in ca. 2%igen Zubereitungen als granulationsfördernd (als Granulationsgewebe bezeichnet man das typische junge, gefäßreiche Bindegewebe, das bei der Wund- und Geschwürsheilung bzw. bei chronischen Entzündungen gebildet wird und sich nach einiger Zeit in Narbengewebe umbildet). Urea is considered in about 2% preparations as granulation (as granulation tissue is called the typical young, vascular-rich connective tissue, which is formed in the wound and ulcer healing or in chronic inflammation and after some time in scar tissue is transformed).
In höheren Konzentrationen (5-10%) nutzt der Hautarzt den hygroskopischen (wasseranziehenden) Effekt des Harnstoffs aus, z.B. bei der Behandlung der Ichthyosis ("Fischschuppenkrankheit"), der Schuppenflechte (Psoriasis) und der Neurodermitis (atopisches Ekzem). Hygroskopische Substanzen, in erster Linie Harnstoff, halten als natürliche Feuchthaltefaktoren die Feuchtigkeit in der Hornhaut zurück. Sinkt der Wassergehalt in der Hornschicht (verursacht durch einen Harnstoffmangel) unter 15%, z.B. bei der Neurodermitis atopica, wird die Haut trocken, spröde und rissig. Ähnlich wie beim atopischen Ekzem fehlt auch bei der Schuppenflechte Harnstoff in der Epidermis. Die Folge ist eine starke Austrocknung der befallenen Hautfächen. At higher concentrations (5-10%), the dermatologist makes use of the hygroscopic (hydrophilic) effect of the urea, e.g. in the treatment of ichthyosis ("fish scale disease"), psoriasis and atopic dermatitis. Hygroscopic substances, primarily urea, retain moisture in the cornea as a natural moisturizing factor. If the water content in the horny layer (caused by urea deficiency) falls below 15%, e.g. In atopic eczema, the skin becomes dry, brittle and cracked. Similar to atopic dermatitis, psoriasis also lacks urea in the epidermis. The result is a strong dehydration of the affected skin areas.
In kosmetischen Hautpräparaten verwendet man Harnstoff als in der Haut feuchtigkeitsbindende Substanz (1 bis 2%ig). Eine 10%ige wäßrige Lösung von Harnstoff ist bakterientötend. Schließlich wirkt Harnstoff - was man sich sowohl in Pharmazie wie auch Kosmetik zunutze machen kann - keratolytisch bzw. keratoplastisch (erweichender Effekt auf das Keratin der Haut) sowie juckreizmildernd. Durch seine polare Struktur hält er das Wasser in der Haut fest und bewahrt ihr dadurch Glätte und Geschmeidigkeit. In cosmetic skin preparations, urea is used as a substance that binds moisture in the skin (1 to 2%). A 10% aqueous solution of urea is bactericidal. After all, urea - which can be used both in pharmacy and cosmetics - has a keratolytic or keratoplastic effect (has a softening effect on the keratin of the skin) as well as relieves itching. Due to its polar structure, it holds the water in the skin and thereby keeps it smoothness and suppleness.
Die Wirkung des Wirkstoffs Allantoin beruht ebenfalls auf Harnstoff, da dieser aus dem Allan- toin abgespalten wird. Problematisch ist aber, daß gerade natürliche Öle in Kombination mit Harnstoff schwer zu formulieren sind. The effect of the active ingredient allantoin is also based on urea, as it is split off from the allantoin. The problem is that just natural oils in combination with urea are difficult to formulate.
Für die Entwicklung stabilier Wasser-in-ÖI-Emulsionen mußte daher bisher immer auf ethoxylierte Emulgatoren zurückgegriffen werden. Will man eine angenehme Sensorik des Produktes erreichen, mußte man dem Produkt infolgedessen oft Sensorikadditive zusetzen, weil ethoxylierte Verbindungen dazu neigen, der kosmetischen Formulierung eine gewisse Klebrigkeit zu verleihen. For the development of stable water-in-oil emulsions, ethoxylated emulsifiers have always had to be resorted to. As a result, it is often necessary to add sensory additives to the product in order to achieve a pleasant sensory perception of the product, since ethoxylated compounds tend to impart some tackiness to the cosmetic formulation.
Ein weiteres Problem war es, daß dergleichen Zubereitungen sich oft durch eine niedrige Stabilität auszeichnen, insbesondere, wenn sie als Lotionen, also niedrigviskose Zubereitungen vorliegen sollten. Another problem was that such preparations are often characterized by low stability, especially if they should be present as lotions, ie low-viscosity preparations.
Aufgabe der vorliegenden Erfindung war es, die Nachteile des Standes der Technik zu beseitigen. The object of the present invention was to eliminate the disadvantages of the prior art.
Überraschenderweise wird die Aufgabe gelöst durch kosmetische oder dermatologische Wasser - in -Öl-Emulsionen mit einem Gehalt anSurprisingly, the object is achieved by cosmetic or dermatological water-in-oil emulsions containing
(a) Harnstoff (a) urea
(b) Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearat/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacat  (b) Polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate
Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearat/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacat zeichnet sich durch eine ungefähres Strukturelement wie folgt Polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate is characterized by an approximate structural element as follows
aus, bei der R1COO, R2COO und R3COO unabhängig voneinander Isostearat und/oder Pohlyhydoxystearat bedeuten können, und n Werte von etwa 2 bis 3 annimmt. in which R 1 COO, R 2 COO and R 3 COO can independently of one another be isostearate and / or polyhydoxystearate, and n assumes values of about 2 to 3.
Das molareVerhältnis von Polyhydroxystearat zu Isostearat soll etwa 1 : 2 betragen. The molar ratio of polyhydroxystearate to isostearate should be about 1: 2.
Die Herstellung solcher Substanzen wird in EP 1 500 427 A2 beschrieben. Erhältlich ist eine solche Substanz beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung„Isolan® GPS" von der Gesellschaft Evonik Goldschmidt. The preparation of such substances is described in EP 1 500 427 A2. Such a substance is available, for example, under the trade name "Isolan® GPS" from Evonik Goldschmidt.
Zwar ist - unter anderem aus dem SÖFW Journal 131 / 1 1 (2005), S. 20 ff. - bekannt, daß es möglich ist, mit Hilfe von Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearat/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacat W/O- Emulsionen mit angenehmer Sensorik zu formulieren. Dennoch konnte der Stand der Technik nicht den Weg zu den erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen, die sich durch einen relativ hohen Harnstoffgehalt auszeichnen, führen würde. Although it is known, inter alia, from SÖFW Journal 131/11 (2005), p. 20 et seq., That it is possible with the aid of polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate to provide W / O emulsions with pleasant sensor technology formulate. Nevertheless, the prior art could not lead the way to the preparations according to the invention, which are characterized by a relatively high urea content.
Insbesondere war erstaunlich, daß erfindungsgemäß stabile Lotionen mit hohem Wassergehalt erhältlich sind, da hoch wasserhaltige W/O-Emulsionen eher dazu neigen, eine hohe Viskosität auszubilden (-> NIVEA®-Creme). In particular, it was surprising that stable lotions with high water content are obtainable according to the invention, since high water-content W / O emulsions are more likely to form a high viscosity (-> NIVEA® cream).
Unter Lotionen werden üblicherweise freifließende Zubereitungen verstanden, die bei 25 °C eine Viskosität von 2.000 - 10.000 mPas (= Millipascalsekunden) aufweisen. Üblicherweise werden solche Viskositäten bei Scherraten von 10 Pa/s ermittelt. Lotions are usually understood to mean free-flowing preparations which have a viscosity of 2,000-10,000 mPas (= millipascal seconds) at 25 ° C. Usually, such viscosities are determined at shear rates of 10 Pa / s.
Im Stand der Technik sind W/O-Emulsionen mit 5% Harnstoff, auf Basis von oder ethyoxylierten Emulgatoren bekannt. Diese Zubereitungen sind mit sehr hohen Harnstoffkonzentration (> 5%) instabil oder extrem hochviskos und damit stark klebrig. The prior art discloses W / O emulsions with 5% urea, based on or ethyoxylated emulsifiers. These preparations are unstable with very high urea concentration (> 5%) or extremely viscous and therefore very sticky.
Stabilitätsdaten der erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen werden nachfolgend aufgeführt: Stability data of the preparations according to the invention are listed below:
Zubereitungen: preparations:
Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearat 2.0000 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 2.0000
Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearat 3.0000  Polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate 3.0000
PEG-40 Sorbitan Perisostearate 5.0000  PEG-40 Sorbitan Perisostearate 5.0000
Polyglyceryl-4 1.0000 Polyglyceryl-4 1.0000
Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate Diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacates
Nylon-12 1 .0000 1 .0000 1.0000 Nylon-12 1 .0000 1 .0000 1.0000
Glycerin 15.0000 15.0000 15.0000Glycerine 15.0000 15.0000 15.0000
Harnstoff 10.0000 10.0000 10.0000Urea 10.0000 10.0000 10.0000
Natrium PCA 1 .0000 1 .0000 1.0000Sodium PCA 1 .0000 1 .0000 1.0000
Milchsäure 0.4000 0.4000 0.4000Lactic acid 0.4000 0.4000 0.4000
Phenoxyethanol 0.5000 0.5000 0.5000Phenoxyethanol 0.5000 0.5000 0.5000
Kaliumsorbat 0.1250 0.1250 0.1250Potassium sorbate 0.1250 0.1250 0.1250
1 ,2-Hexanediol 0.5000 0.5000 0.50001, 2-hexanediol 0.5000 0.5000 0.5000
Natriumchlorid 0.5000 0.5000 0.5000Sodium chloride 0.5000 0.5000 0.5000
Wasser, demineralisiert ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Water, demineralized ad 100 ad 100 ad 100
Stabilitätsergebnisse: Stability results:
Vorteilhaft wird das Gewichtsverhältnis aus Harnstoff einerseits Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearat/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacat andererseits aus dem Bereich von 100 : 1 bis 1 zu 100, bevorzugt 10 : 1 bis 1 zu 10, insbesondere bevorzugt 2 : 1 bis 1 : 2 gewählt. Advantageously, the weight ratio of urea on the one hand Polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearates / sebacate on the other hand from the range of 100: 1 to 1 to 100, preferably 10: 1 to 1 to 10, particularly preferably 2: 1 to 1: 2.
Kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen gemäß der Erfindung enthalten vorteilhaft 0,01 bis 60 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,1 bis 25 Gew.-%, insbesondere bevorzugt 1 bis 10 Gew.-% an Harnstoff, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen. Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention advantageously contain 0.01 to 60 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 25 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1 to 10 wt .-% of urea, based on the total weight of the preparations.
Kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen gemäß der Erfindung enthalten vorteilhaft 0,0001 bis 15 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,01 bis 10 Gew.-%, insbesondere bevorzugt 0,05 bis 2,5 Gew.-% an Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearat/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacat, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen. Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention advantageously contain 0.0001 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 2.5 wt .-% of polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearates / Sebacate, based on the total weight of the preparations.
Zur Anwendung werden die kosmetischen und dermatologischen Zubereitungen erfindungsgemäß in der für Kosmetika üblichen Weise auf die Haut und/oder die Haare in ausreichender Menge aufgebracht. For use, the cosmetic and dermatological preparations are applied according to the invention in the usual manner for cosmetics on the skin and / or hair in sufficient quantity.
Die kosmetischen und dermatologischen Zubereitungen gemäß der Erfindung können kosmetische oder galenische Hilfsstoffe enthalten, wie sie üblicherweise in solchen Zubereitungen verwendet werden, z.B. Konservierungsmittel, Bakterizide, Parfüme, Substanzen zum Verhindern des Schäumens, Farbstoffe, Pigmente, die eine färbende Wirkung haben, Verdickungsmittel, anfeuchtende und/oder feuchhaltende Substanzen, Fette, Öle, Wachse oder andere übliche Bestandteile einer kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Formulierung wie Alkohole, Polyole, Polymere, Schaumstabilisatoren, Elektrolyte, organische Lösungsmittel oder Silikonderivate. The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention may contain cosmetic or galenic adjuvants such as are commonly used in such preparations, e.g. Preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, foaming inhibitors, dyes, pigments having a coloring effect, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common ingredients of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, Polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
Ein zusätzlicher Gehalt an üblichen Antioxidantien ist im Allgemeinen bevorzugt. Erfindungsgemäß können als günstige Antioxidantien alle für kosmetische und/oder dermatologische Anwendungen geeigneten oder gebräuchlichen Antioxidantien verwendet werden. An additional level of conventional antioxidants is generally preferred. According to the invention, all antioxidants which are suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as favorable antioxidants.
Die Menge der vorgenannten Antioxidantien (eine oder mehrere Verbindungen) in den Zubereitungen beträgt vorzugsweise 0,001 bis 30 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,05 - 20 Gew.- %, insbesondere 1 - 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung. The amount of the aforementioned antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 1-10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of Preparation.
Sofern die kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitung im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung eine Lösung oder Emulsion oder Dispersion darstellt, können als Lösungsmittel verwendet werden: Wasser oder wäßrige Lösungen If the cosmetic or dermatological preparation in the sense of the present invention is a solution or emulsion or dispersion, it is possible to use as solvent: Water or aqueous solutions
Öle, wie Triglyceride der Caprin- oder der Caprylsäure, vorzugsweise aber Rizinusöl; Fette, Wachse und andere natürliche und synthetische Fettkörper, vorzugsweise Ester von Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen niedriger C-Zahl, z.B. mit Isopropanol, Propylengly- kol oder Glycerin, Glycerylglucose, NMF-Komplex, Ceramide, Cholesterol, Sterol oder Ester von Fettalkoholen mit Alkansäuren niedriger C-Zahl oder mit Fettsäuren; Alkohole, Diole oder Polyole niedriger C-Zahl, sowie deren Ether, vorzugsweise Ethanol, Isopropanol, Propylenglykol, Glycerin, Ethylenglykol, Ethylenglykolmonoethyl- oder -monobutylether, Propylenglykolmonomethyl, -monoethyl- oder -monobutylether, Diethylenglykolmonomethyl- oder -monoethylether und analoge Produkte.  Oils, such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, but preferably castor oil; Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fats, preferably esters of fatty acids with lower C-number alcohols, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, glyceryl glucose, NMF complex, ceramides, cholesterol, sterols or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids of low C number or with fatty acids; Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products.
Insbesondere werden Gemische der vorstehend genannten Lösungsmittel verwendet. Bei alkoholischen Lösungsmitteln kann Wasser ein weiterer Bestandteil sein. In particular, mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used. For alcoholic solvents, water can be another ingredient.
Sofern die kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitung im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung eine Lösung oder Emulsion oder Dispersion darstellt, können als Lösungsmittel verwendet werden: If the cosmetic or dermatological preparation in the sense of the present invention is a solution or emulsion or dispersion, it is possible to use as solvent:
Wasser oder wäßrige Lösungen  Water or aqueous solutions
Öle, wie Triglyceride der Caprin- oder der Caprylsäure, vorzugsweise aber Rizinusöl; Fette, Wachse und andere natürliche und synthetische Fettkörper, vorzugsweise Ester von Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen niedriger C-Zahl, z.B. mit Isopropanol, Propylenglykol oder Glycerin, oder Ester von Fettalkoholen mit Alkansäuren niedriger C-Zahl oder mit Fettsäuren;  Oils, such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, but preferably castor oil; Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fats, preferably esters of fatty acids with lower C-number alcohols, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids of low C number or with fatty acids;
Alkohole, Diole oder Polyole niedriger C-Zahl, sowie deren Ether, vorzugsweise Ethanol, Isopropanol, Propylenglykol, Glycerin, Ethylenglykol, Ethylenglykolmonoethyl- oder -monobutylether, Propylenglykolmonomethyl, -monoethyl- oder -monobutylether, Diethylenglykolmonomethyl- oder -monoethylether und analoge Produkte.  Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products.
Insbesondere werden Gemische der vorstehend genannten Lösungsmittel verwendet. Bei alkoholischen Lösungsmitteln kann Wasser ein weiterer Bestandteil sein. In particular, mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used. For alcoholic solvents, water can be another ingredient.
Als Treibmittel für aus Aerosolbehältern versprühbare kosmetische und/oder dermatologische Zubereitungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind die üblichen bekannten leichtflüchtigen, verflüssigten Treibmittel, beispielsweise Kohlenwasserstoffe (Propan, Butan, Isobutan) geeignet, die allein oder in Mischung miteinander eingesetzt werden können. Auch Druckluft ist vorteilhaft zu verwenden. Natürlich weiß der Fachmann, daß es an sich nichttoxische Treibgase gibt, die grundsätzlich für die Verwirklichung der vorliegenden Erfindung in Form von Aerosolpräparaten geeignet wären, auf die aber dennoch wegen bedenklicher Wirkung auf die Umwelt oder sonstiger Begleitumstände verzichtet werden sollte, insbesondere Fluorkohlenwasserstoffe und Fluorchlorkohlenwasserstoffe (FCKW). Suitable propellants for sprayable from aerosol containers cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations in the context of the present invention, the usual known volatile, liquefied propellants, such as hydrocarbons (propane, butane, isobutane) are suitable, which can be used alone or in mixture with each other. Also, compressed air is advantageous to use. Of course, those skilled in the art will recognize that there are inherently nontoxic propellants which would be useful in the practice of the present invention in the form of aerosol preparations, but which should be avoided due to adverse environmental effects or other concomitant conditions, especially fluorocarbons and chlorofluorocarbons (US Pat. CFC).
Kosmetische Zubereitungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung können auch als Gele vorliegen, die neben einem wirksamen Gehalt am erfindungsgemäßen Wirkstoff und dafür üblicherweise verwendeten Lösungsmitteln, bevorzugt Wasser, noch organische Verdickungsmittel, z.B. Gummiarabikum, Xanthangummi, Natriumalginat, Cellulose-Derivate, vorzugsweise Methylcellulose, Hydroxymethylcellulose, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Hydroxypro- pylcellulose, Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose oder anorganische Verdickungsmittel, z. B. Aluminiumsilikate wie beispielsweise Bentonite, oder ein Gemisch aus Polyethylenglykol und Polyethylenglykolstearat oder -distearat, enthalten. Das Verdickungsmittel ist in dem Gel z.B. in einer Menge zwischen 0, 1 und 30 Gew.-%, bevorzugt zwischen 0,5 und 15 Gew.-%, enthalten. Cosmetic preparations in the context of the present invention may also be present as gels which, in addition to an effective content of the active ingredient according to the invention and solvents customarily used for it, preferably water, also organic thickening agents, e.g. Gum arabic, xanthan gum, sodium alginate, cellulose derivatives, preferably methylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose or inorganic thickening agents, e.g. For example, aluminum silicates such as bentonites, or a mixture of polyethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol stearate or distearate. The thickener is present in the gel e.g. in an amount between 0, 1 and 30 wt .-%, preferably between 0.5 and 15 wt .-%, included.
Es ist erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft, außer den erfindungsgemäßen Kombinationen weitere öllösliche UVA-Filter und/oder UVB-Filter in der Lipidphase und/oder weitere wasserlösliche UVA-Filter und/oder UVB-Filter in der wäßrigen Phase einzusetzen. It is advantageous according to the invention to use, in addition to the combinations according to the invention, further oil-soluble UVA filters and / or UVB filters in the lipid phase and / or further water-soluble UVA filters and / or UVB filters in the aqueous phase.
Vorteilhaft können die Zubereitungen erfindungsgemäß weitere Substanzen enthalten, die UV-Strahlung im UVB-Bereich absorbieren, wobei die Gesamtmenge der Filtersubstanzen z.B. 0, 1 Gew.-% bis 30 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,5 bis 10 Gew.-%, insbesondere 1 bis 6 Gew.-% beträgt, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen, um kosmetische Zubereitungen zur Verfügung zu stellen, die die Haut vor dem gesamten Bereich der ultravioletten Strahlung schützen. Sie können auch als Sonnenschutzmittel dienen. According to the invention, the preparations may advantageously contain further substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of filter substances being e.g. 0, 1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular 1 to 6 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations in order to provide cosmetic preparations, which protect the skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also serve as sunscreen.
Die nachfolgenden Beispiele sollen die vorliegende Erfindung verdeutlichen, ohne sie einzuschränken. Alle Mengenangaben, Anteile und Prozentanteile sind, soweit nicht anders angegeben, auf das Gewicht und die Gesamtmenge bzw. auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen bezogen. W/O-Emulsionen The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without limiting it. Unless indicated otherwise, all amounts, proportions and percentages are based on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations. W / O emulsions,

Claims

Patentansprüche claims
1. Kosmetische oder dermatologische Wasser-in-ÖI-Emulsionen mit einem Gehalt an1. Cosmetic or dermatological water-in-oil emulsions containing
(a) Harnstoff (a) urea
(b) Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearat/Polyhydroxystearat/Sebacat.  (b) Polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate.
2. Wasser-in-ÖI-Emulsionen nach Anspruch 1 , dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß das Gewichtsverhältnis aus Harnstoff einerseits und Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearat/Polyhydroxy- stearat/Sebacat andererseits aus dem Bereich von 100 : 1 bis 1 zu 100, bevorzugt 10 : 1 bis 1 zu 10, insbesondere bevorzugt 2 : 1 bis 1 : 2 gewählt wird. 2. Water-in-oil emulsions according to claim 1, characterized in that the weight ratio of urea on the one hand and polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxy stearate / sebacate on the other hand from the range of 100: 1 to 1 to 100, preferably 10: 1 to 1 to 10, particularly preferably 2: 1 to 1: 2 is selected.
3. Wasser-in-ÖI-Emulsionen nach Anspruch 1 oder 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß sie 0,01 bis 60 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0, 1 bis 25 Gew.-%, insbesondere bevorzugt 1 bis 10 Gew.-% an Harnstoff enthalten, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen. 3. Water-in-oil emulsions according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that they contain 0.01 to 60 wt .-%, preferably 0, 1 to 25 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1 to 10 wt .-% Containing urea, based on the total weight of the preparations.
4. Wasser-in-ÖI-Emulsionen nach einem der vorstehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß sie 0,0001 bis 15 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,01 bis 10 Gew.-%, insbesondere bevorzugt 0,05 bis 2,5 an Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearat/Polyhydroxystearat/Sebacat enthalten, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen. 4. Water-in-oil emulsions according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it 0.0001 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 2.5 polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, based on the total weight of the preparations.
5. Wasser-in-ÖI-Emulsionen nach einem der vorstehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß sie als Lotionen vorliegen, welche bei 25 °C Viskositäten von 2.000 - 10.000 mPas (= Millipascalsekunden) aufweisen, ermittelt bei Scherraten von 10 Pa/s. 5. Water-in-oil emulsions according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that they are present as lotions, which at 25 ° C have viscosities of 2,000 - 10,000 mPas (= millipascal seconds), determined at shear rates of 10 Pa / s.
EP12778732.3A 2011-11-01 2012-10-26 Cosmetic or dermatological water-in-oil emulsions having a certain urea and polyglyceryl-4-diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacate content Ceased EP2773316A2 (en)

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DE201110085535 DE102011085535A1 (en) 2011-11-01 2011-11-01 Cosmetic or dermatological water-in-oil emulsions containing urea and polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate.
PCT/EP2012/071282 WO2013064432A2 (en) 2011-11-01 2012-10-26 Cosmetic or dermatological water-in-oil emulsions having a certain urea and polyglyceryl-4-diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacate content

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DE10333443A1 (en) 2003-07-23 2005-02-10 Goldschmidt Ag Emulsifier for low-viscosity W / O emulsions based on partially crosslinked polyglycerol esters of polyhydroxystearic acid
DE102007005186A1 (en) * 2007-01-29 2008-07-31 Merck Patent Gmbh Ultraviolet protection agent, e.g. useful for producing photoprotective compositions, comprises metal oxide particles with a manganese-containing coating
DE102008028821A1 (en) * 2007-06-20 2009-01-29 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Cosmetic stick based on a thickened oil-in-water dispersion / emulsion
ES2558156T3 (en) * 2007-12-20 2016-02-02 L'oreal Water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion stabilized with a lipophilic emulsifier and a hydrophobically modified polysaccharide
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