EP2717970A2 - Polyethylene glycol-free cosmetic or dermatological preparations - Google Patents

Polyethylene glycol-free cosmetic or dermatological preparations

Info

Publication number
EP2717970A2
EP2717970A2 EP12727305.0A EP12727305A EP2717970A2 EP 2717970 A2 EP2717970 A2 EP 2717970A2 EP 12727305 A EP12727305 A EP 12727305A EP 2717970 A2 EP2717970 A2 EP 2717970A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
stearate
preparation
polyglyceryl
preparations
oil
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
EP12727305.0A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Stefanie Von Thaden
Manuela Köhler
Rainer Kröpke
Jens Nielsen
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Beiersdorf AG
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf AG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from DE201110077060 external-priority patent/DE102011077060A1/en
Priority claimed from DE201110077018 external-priority patent/DE102011077018A1/en
Application filed by Beiersdorf AG filed Critical Beiersdorf AG
Publication of EP2717970A2 publication Critical patent/EP2717970A2/en
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/005—Preparations for sensitive skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients

Definitions

  • the invention encompasses cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing polyglyceryl-10-stearate, which are free of polyethylene glycols and / or
  • Polyethylene glycol derivatives are.
  • Hydrodispersions are known. Hydrodispersions are dispersions of a liquid, semi-solid or solid internal (discontinuous) lipid phase in an external aqueous (continuous) phase. Hydrodispersions are - as well as emulsions characterized by a similar phase arrangement - metastable systems and therefore inclined to a state of two in to pass on coherent discrete phases. In a classic O / W emulsion, the choice of a suitable emulsifier prevents the
  • hydrodispersions contain only very small amounts of emulsifiers or can even be completely free from
  • Emulsions in particular W / O, O / W, O / W / O or W / O / W emulsions, are often used as cosmetic or medical preparations.
  • Emulsions are generally understood to mean heterogeneous systems which consist of two liquids which are immiscible or only slightly miscible with one another, which are usually referred to as phases.
  • one of the two liquids W / O
  • the liquids pure or as solutions
  • an oil-in-water emulsion O / W emulsion, eg milk.
  • the basic character for example electrical conductivity, sensor technology, dyeability of the continuous phase, an O W emulsion is characterized by the water.
  • a water-in-oil emulsion W / O emulsion, eg butter is the inverse principle, the basic character here being determined by the oil.
  • Emulsions generally require one or more emulsifiers, thickeners and / or bodying agents for their formation and stabilization to be stable over a cosmetically acceptable period of time, generally 1 year after opening a cosmetic preparation.
  • ethoxylated emulsifiers are commonly used, which, as is well known, lead to strong, stable emulsion formulations and can often cover a relatively wide sensory range.
  • ethoxylated emulsifiers act as penetration enhancers through their PEG units.
  • Polyethylene glycols and / or polyethylene glycol derivatives and their derivatives can make the skin more permeable and thus introduce harmful substances into the body. For this reason, the use of ethoxylated substances in cosmetics is controversial and ethoxylated emulsifiers are therefore not desired by the consumer. Furthermore, under the action of solar radiation, the photoinstable
  • Polyethylene glycol-containing (PEG) emulsifiers are decomposed and unsightly
  • cosmetic or dermatological preparations must meet some aesthetic criteria in order to obtain sufficient consumer acceptance.
  • glyceryl stearate citrate Imwitor®
  • polyglyceryl-10-stearate In the search for suitable emulsifiers that meet the desired requirements of cosmetics or dermatology, these emulsifiers seem to be excluded.
  • Glyceryl stearate citrate must be used in cosmetic preparations in such a high amount or in combination with co-emulsifiers to obtain stable emulsions, so that the desire for reduced emulsifier content with glyceryl stearate citrate is not met.
  • Polyglyceryl-10-stearate (PG-10 stearate, CAS No .: 79777-30-3) is a hydrophilic emulsifier and has an HLB of 12.
  • Polyglyceryl-10 stearates are commercially available as blends, for example, as Polyaldo 10-1-S (Lonza), Nikkol Decaglyn 1-S (Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.) or Salacos PGMSV (The Nisshin OilliO Group, Ltd.).
  • Polyglyceryl-10-stearate is known from ice cream manufacture and has a brown color. Also due to this aesthetically problematic circumstance, the application in cosmetic emulsions seemed to ban itself.
  • Heliogel® which in addition to Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Hydrogenated Polyisobutenes, Phospholipids, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil also contains polyglyceryl-10 stearates, is available for purchase.
  • PG-10 stearate is merely part of a
  • JP 2005162664 discloses PG-10 stearate in hair dye preparation comprising peroxides. A cosmetic topical application therefore excludes.
  • WO 0027197 A1 discloses preparations comprising besides PG-10-stearate one or more UV filters, lecithins, polyethylene glycols and parabens.
  • DE 102008028821 A1 and DE 102008028822 A1 disclose stick preparations with PG-10 stearate.
  • DE 10213955 A1 discloses PG-10 stearate in an aftershave lotion wherein the content of PG-10 stearate is 6% or more.
  • polyglyceryl-10-stearate can be used as an emulsifier in cosmetic or dermatological preparations without showing the disadvantages of the coloring effect and the instability.
  • the invention is a cosmetic or dermatological preparation comprising
  • Polyglyceryl-10-stearate in a proportion of less than 6 wt.%, In particular in the range of 0.1 to 2.8 wt.%, Based on the total mass of the preparation, and comprising less than 0.01 wt.% Ethoxylated emuigators , especially no PEG-40 stearate. In particular, the preparations have no (0%) ethoxylated emuigators,
  • Polyethylene glycols and / or polyethylene glycol derivatives are examples of polyethylene glycols.
  • Cyclic silicone oil 0 3 0 0
  • Citric acid 0.0050 0 0 0
  • Citric acid 0.0050 0 0 0
  • Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate 0.7 1, 8 1 1
  • the preparations according to the invention are advantageously based on an emulsion, preferably an O / W emulsion, or hydrodispersion.
  • the preparations thus prepared, preferably emulsions have a low emulsifier content of less than 6% and fulfill Thus, the desire for well-tolerated, mild products, without compromising the stability.
  • Less than 6% by weight or less than 3% by weight of PG-10 stearate does not mean 0% by weight.
  • the minimum proportion of PG-10 stearate is preferably 0.1% by weight.
  • polyglyceryl-10-stearate also used as the only emulsifier, leads to stable emulsions. A waiver of additional emulsifiers is thus possible and comes so the desire for reduced
  • fatty alcohols are often used.
  • the generic term fatty alcohols stands for monohydric primary alcohols with 8 to 22
  • Carbon atoms and branched or unbranched chains are obtained by a reduction of the triglycerides, fatty acids or fatty acid methyl esters and form elementary raw materials for the production of various chemical secondary products. Regarding the chain length, an even number of carbon atoms is a hallmark of the
  • Chain components of 16 and 18 C atoms are suitable as classical components for cosmetic or dermatological creams and ointments. Depending on their molecular weight, they are high-boiling oily liquids, waxy masses or solid products, e.g. Octanol (caprylic alcohol), octenol, octadienol, decanol (capric alcohol), decenol, decadienol, dodecanol (lauryl alcohol), dodecenol, dodecadienol, tetradecanol (myristyl alcohol), hexadecanol (cetyl alcohol), octadecanol (stearyl alcohol or isostearyl alcohol),
  • Octadecenol oleyl alcohol or erucyl alcohol
  • octadecene diol ricinoleic alcohol
  • fatty alcohols monohydric primary alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms and branched or unbranched chains
  • proportion of fatty alcohols, monohydric primary alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms and branched or unbranched chains is therefore advantageously not more than 1% by weight, preferably 0% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation.
  • PG-10 stearate can be added to the emulsion formation both in the water and in the fat phase. In both cases, the same product is obtained. The differences in consistency are not significant and not relevant to a consumer.
  • Figure 1 shows these consistency studies. The consistency was determined using a consistency determination device according to Fligge (according to DE 29 09 087).
  • Formula A differs from formula B in that the PG-10 Stearate emulsifier was added to the water phase in case A and to the fat phase in case B. All further steps were identical for both formulations.
  • the consistency value is plotted on the y axis. It can be seen that both formulas even have the same consistency numerically after one day, ie they are identical in terms of consistency. After 30 days there is a numerical difference, but the consumer can not understand it.
  • a process for the preparation of cosmetic or dermatological emulsion preparations with polyglyceryl-10-stearate as emulsifier, preferably single emulsifier, allows the addition both in the water and / or in the oil phase of the emulsion.
  • PG-10-containing preparations can thus be produced more easily and give the person skilled an outstanding flexibility with regard to viscosity, sensor technology, application form and tolerance to a wide variety of ingredients and production.
  • Preparations no instabilities, phase separation, coalescence, Ostwald ripening or change in droplet size with time or creaming.
  • the formulations as disclosed in the examples were optically stable for at least 6 months at room temperature and at 40 ° C. That is, no phase separation or phase separation was observed.
  • Mildness can be described by various aspects. Mildness may mean that a product does not cause redness, burning or itching or that the skin does not dry out when using the product. However, these are all indicators that can only be fixed by the use of the consumer. However, the goal in the development of cosmetic or dermatological products is, inter alia, to bring products into the market which do not evoke the same reaction from the consumer. For this reason, there are various tests to show already such a potential of "mildness".
  • the expert knows such tests for example the Repetitive patch test.
  • the repetitive, occlusive epicutaneous test with up to four applications of the test sample on the same skin area for four consecutive days for a defined period of time serves to differentiate the skin compatibility of skin care products and to optimize products.
  • a test sample with a known irritation profile should be tested.
  • the termination criterion for further applications is the occurrence of a clearly recognizable skin irritation.
  • the evaluation it is stated whether, and if so, after how many applications a skin change has occurred. Reactions that occur at an early stage are to be evaluated more strongly than reactions after the later ones
  • Emulsifiers trigger significantly stronger effects with 14, 22 and 25 reactions, respectively. The lower the number of reactions observed, the milder the product.
  • Additional emulsifiers may be added to the preparations according to the invention. However, this is not required or mandatory in all cases according to the invention.
  • additional emulsifiers are added, these are preferably to be selected from the group of emulsifiers which are solid, pasty or liquid at 25 ° C and not ethoxylated. Particularly preferred additional emulsifiers are to be selected from the group 1, 2 Propandiolfettklareester, acetoglycerides, acetylated mono- / diglycerides, alkali or
  • Ammonium soaps ammonium phosphatides, sorbitan monoisostearate, C10-C22 fatty acids, cetearyl sulfate, cetearyl glucosides, cetyl phosphate, cetylstearyl alcohol in combination with sodium cetyl stearyl sulfate, citrate glyceride esters, citric acid monoglycerides,
  • Diacetyltartaric acid monoglycerides diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (Isolan PDI), egg lecithin, emulsifier YN (trade name), acetic acid monoglycerides, mixed propylene glycol glycerol esters, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl oleate in combination with propylene glycol, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate SE, glyceryl stearate citrate, glycol distearate, isostearyl diglyceryl succinate , Isostearylglyceryl ether, potassium cetyl phosphate,
  • Lactoglycerides Lactylated mono- / diglycerides, lecithin, methyl glucose sesquistearate,
  • Lactic acid monoglycerides mono- and diglycerides of fatty acids esterified with acetic acid and tartaric acid, monoglyceride acetate, monoglyceride citrate, monoglyceride diacetyl tartrate, monoglyceride lactate, monoglyceride tartrate, Na, K and Ca salts of stearoyl-2-lactyl lactic acid, Na, K and Ca; stearoyl-2-lactoyl-lactate, Na, K and Ca stearoyl-2-lactyllactate, Na, K and Ca stearoyl lactic acid, Na salt of lauryl sulfuric acid,
  • Polyglyceryl-1 dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls PGPH), polyglyceryl-2-laurate, polyglyceryl-2-sesquiisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 beeswax (Cera Bellina), polyglyceryl-3 cetyl ether
  • Diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate (Isolan GPS), polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (Isolan GI 34), polyoxyethylene stearic acid ester, polyoxylstearate mono- / diglyceride, propylene glycol stearate SE, propylene glycol fatty acid ester, propylene glycol mono- / di-fatty acid ester, rapeseed lecithin, sucrose glycerides , Sucrose esters of fatty acids, soy lecithin, sorbates bsp.
  • Isolan GPS Diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate
  • Isolan GI 34 polyglyceryl-4 isostearate
  • polyoxyethylene stearic acid ester polyoxylstearate mono- / diglyceride
  • propylene glycol stearate SE propylene glycol fatty acid ester
  • Sorbitan monolaurate (sorbate 20), sorbitan di-citrate, sorbitan butucate, Sorbitan dihydroxystearate, sorbitan diisostearate, sorbitan adipate, sorbitan dioleate,
  • Sorbitan monostearate (sorbate 60), sorbitan monotartrate, sorbitan sesquiterate,
  • the preparations according to the invention preferably comprise no further additional emulsifier except PG-10 stearate.
  • the proportion of additional emulsifiers should therefore preferably be less than 0.01% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation, in order to be considered to be present according to the invention-without additional emulsifier.
  • Lecithins is the classic name for a group of chemical compounds called phosphatidylcholines. These are phospholipids, which are composed of fatty acids, glycerol, phosphoric acid and choline. Lecithins are
  • Lecithins Components of the cell membrane of animal and plant organisms. They are accompanying substances in fats and oils. They allow the emulsification of fats and water and are therefore important natural surfactants (emulsifiers) for food and feed. Lecithins are widely accepted in the EU as a food additive (E 322) for foodstuffs with a maximum limit on infant formula only. In medicine and cosmetics, they are also used as an active ingredient, in dietetics as a dietary supplement. In addition to their structure-forming properties, lecithins are ascribed numerous functional tasks. They are actively involved in both anabolic lipid metabolism and catabolic lipid metabolism.
  • Lecithins are therefore excluded according to the invention.
  • the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention may further contain cosmetic adjuvants and other active ingredients, such as are commonly used in such preparations, for.
  • preservatives preservatives, bactericides, substances for preventing foaming, dyes and color pigments, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other conventional ingredients of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives, self-tanner, buffers, pH regulators, vegetable
  • Preferred lipid components in the preparations according to the invention are C 12-15 alkyl benzoate, isopropyl palmitate, caprylic / capric triglycerides and / or octyldodecanol.
  • Preferred auxiliaries are preferably to be selected from the group acetyl
  • Trifluoromethylphenyl Valylglycine Amaranthus Caudatus Extract, Amaranthus Extract, Andrographolide, Anthemis Nobilis Flower, Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Maleate, Essential Oils, Avena Aqua, BGT, Biosaccharides Gum 3, Butyl Hydroquinone, Cassia Alata,
  • Polycaprolactone Polyester-5, Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate, Polyglycerol-6 Polyricinoleate, Punica Granatum Fruit Juice, Pyracantha Fortuneana Extract, Pyrus Malus Water, Selaginella Tamariscina Extract, Shorea Robusta Butter, Sodium Dodecylbenzene Sulfonate, Sodium Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Acryloyl Dimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Sodium Mannose Phosphate, Succinoglycan, Sucrose Polycarbonate Solvent, Tetrahydrobisdemethoxycurcumin, Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane,
  • Tetrahydrodemethoxycurcumin Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Thiodipropionic Acid, Thiotaurine, Tocopheryl Glucoside, Tri C14-15 Al ky Lead Rate, Trilon B, Trioctyl Dodecyl Citrate, Trioxaundecanedioic Acid and / or Xymenynic Acid.
  • the preparations according to the invention are preferably O / W, W / O, W / O / W, O / W / O emulsions and hydrodispersions, where O can also stand for silicone oils.
  • the preparation is based on a O / W emulsion or
  • the lipid phase used may preferably be the following oils in the emulsion preferred according to the invention, in particular O / W emulsion:
  • polar oil components selected from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a
  • ester oils can advantageously be selected from the group consisting of phenethyl benzoate, 2-phenylethyl benzoate, propylheptyl caprylate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, dibutyl adipate, octyl palmitate, octyl cocoate, octyl isostearate, octyldodeceyl myristate, octyldodecanol, cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate,
  • Isononyl isononanoate 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl palmitate, stearyl heptanoate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, tridecyl stearate, tridecyl trimellitate, as well as synthetic, semisynthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, e.g. B. jojoba oil.
  • dialkyl ethers and dialkyl carbonates may advantageously be selected, and z.
  • Dicaprylyl carbonate for example that available under the trade name Cetiol CC from Cognis. It is further preferred that the oil component (s) is selected from the group consisting of isoeicosane, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate,
  • oil phase of the formulations of the invention has a content of C12-15-alkyl benzoate or consists entirely of this.
  • Other oil components may include: caprylic / capric triglycerides, octyldodecanol, C12-15 alkyl benzoates,
  • Neopentanoates and Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides Neopentanoates and Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides.
  • non-polar oil components such as silicone oils
  • silicone oils such as silicone oils
  • Cyclomethicones for example D4, D5, D6, Dimethicone, Dimethiconecopolyol and other hydrocarbon based oils such as Parafinum Liquidum, halogenated and perhalogenated hydrocarbons are selected.
  • Preferred lipid components in the preparations according to the invention are C 12-15 alkyl benzoate, isopropyl palmitate, caprylic / capric triglycerides and / or octyldodecanol.
  • the preparations according to the invention comprise no parabens, formalin-cleavers, organohalogens, benzoic acid and its salts, formates and tea tree oil, and advantageously also no benzyl alcohol and / or phenoxyethanol.
  • DMDM Hydantoin is a formaldehyde releaser.
  • formaldehyde is a toxic substance and its use in cosmetics is not uncontroversial.
  • Benzyl alcohol has a characteristic odor which must be masked in a formulation with perfume.
  • perfume ingredients are often suspected of irritating or sensitizing. Therefore it is desirable to keep the perfume concentration as low as possible. Phenoxyethanol is repeatedly suspected Type IV
  • Organic halides are relatively highly reactive substances and interact with the cell membrane and are thus strongly rejected by consumers.
  • Tea tree oil is not approved as a drug and is considered a risk substance for the occurrence of contact dermatitis.
  • Emulsion preparations with PG-10 stearate can be prepared in the cold-cold process. Normally, the fat phase is melted to 80-100 ° C and heats the water phase parallel to 80-100 ° C on. These two hot phases are combined and stirred. Subsequently, it is homogenized. In production, this often has to be cooled.
  • This process is called hot / hot process.
  • Cold / cold method is thus analogous, you have a water phase at room temperature and a fat phase at room temperature, which gives together and homogenized, which is energetically a big advantage.
  • thermally labile active substances for example natural oils, active substances, vitamins, perfume or else individual perfume ingredients.
  • Thermally labile substances are those which, when heated above 50 ° C., change in color, smell or in physical parameters or even degrade completely or partially.
  • Particularly preferred active ingredients therefore include biochinones, in particular ubiquinone Q10, isoflavone and isoflavonoids, genistein, arctiin, cardiolipin, lipoic acid, anti-freezing proteins, hop and hops malt extracts, and / or the restructuring of the connective tissue promoting substances, isoflavonoids and isoflavonoid -containing plant extracts such as soy and clover extracts, which can also be used very well in the preparations according to the invention and Hautauflagenmatrices.
  • biochinones in particular ubiquinone Q10, isoflavone and isoflavonoids, genistein, arctiin, cardiolipin, lipoic acid, anti-freezing proteins, hop and hops malt extracts, and / or the restructuring of the connective tissue promoting substances, isoflavonoids and isoflavonoid -containing plant extracts such as soy and clover extracts, which can also be used very well in the preparations according to
  • the combination product according to the invention is particularly suitable as active ingredients for supporting the skin functions in dry skin, such as, for example, vitamin C, biotin, creatine, creatinine, propionic acid, glycerol, green tea extracts, white tea extracts or solutions, to use.
  • agents such as sericosides, various extracts of licorice, licochalcone A, silymarin or silyphos, flavonoids, dexpanthenol, ethanol, inhibitors of
  • Prostaglandin metabolism in particular cyclooxygenase, and the
  • Leukotrienstoffops in particular the 5-lipoxygenase, but also the 5-lipoxygenase inhibitor protein, FLAP.
  • modulators of pigmentation also proved to be advantageous.
  • Reduce age spots and / or lighten existing age spots such as tyrosine sulfate, vitamin C, lipoic acid and liponamide, various extracts of licorice, kojic acid, hydroquinone, arbutin, fruit acids, especially alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), bearberry (uvae ursi), ursolic acid, Ascorbic acid, green tea extracts, aminoguanidine and / or
  • active ingredients that promote enhanced / faster tanning of the skin (Advanced Glycation End Products (AGE), lipofuscins, nucleic acid oligonucleotides, purines and pyrimidines, NO-releasing substances, with or without the influence of UV light, have proven to be effective).
  • AGE Advanced Glycation End Products
  • lipofuscins lipofuscins
  • nucleic acid oligonucleotides nucleic acid oligonucleotides
  • purines and pyrimidines NO-releasing substances, with or without the influence of UV light
  • suitable active ingredients are, for example, folic acid, phytoene, urea, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, flavone glycosides such. ⁇ -glucosylrutin, carnitine,
  • Such ingredients may preferably each be contained in a proportion of 0.01 to 30 wt.%, Based on the total weight of the preparation in this.
  • Formulations according to the invention which contain one or more anti-wrinkle active ingredients such as flavone glycosides, in particular ⁇ -glycosyl rutin, coenzyme Q10, retinol and its esters, vitamin E and its derivatives and other anti-wrinkle agents known to the skilled person, are particularly suitable for protection against aesthetically unattractive
  • Skin changes such as those that occur with tired skin or skin aging. These changes include e.g. Dryness, roughness and formation of dryness wrinkles, itching, reduced refatting especially after washing, visible vascular dilations such as tele-angiectasias or cuperosis, slackness and development of wrinkles and wrinkles, local hyper-, hypo- and Albertpigment michen age spots, increased susceptibility to mechanical stress such as cracking and other changes known to those skilled in the art. Further advantageous emulsions of the invention are suitable for the appearance of dry or rough skin.
  • the preparations 2, 4, 6, 8, 9 and 10 comprise as emulsifier according to the invention only polyglycerol-10-stearate and are still extremely stable.
  • Cyclic silicone oil (cyclomethicone) 12.5 15 25.0 10.0 7.5
  • Triglycerol diisostearate 1 0 0.5 0.25 2.0 3.0
  • Polyglyceryl 10 Stearate 0.2 1, 0 0.5 0.1 0.75
  • Myristyl alcohol 0.00 0.5 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00
  • Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 2.50 0.00 2.50 0.00 0.00 0.00
  • Polyglyceryl 10 Stearates 0.30 0.30 2.00 1, 00 4.00 1, 50
  • Methylisothiazolinone 0.00 0.00 0.05 0.00 0.04 0.04 Phenoxyethanol 0.00 0.00 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.60
  • Methylparaben 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.30 0.00 0.00

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing polyglyceryl-10-stearate and no ethoxylated emulsifiers.

Description

Polyethylenglykol-freie kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen  Polyethylene glycol-free cosmetic or dermatological preparations
Die Erfindung umfasst kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen enthaltend Polyglyceryl-10-Stearat, die frei von Polyethylenglykolen und/oder The invention encompasses cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing polyglyceryl-10-stearate, which are free of polyethylene glycols and / or
Polyethylenglykolderivaten sind.  Polyethylene glycol derivatives are.
Häufige Erscheinungsformen kosmetischer oder dermatologischer Zubereitungen sind feindisperse Mehrphasensysteme, in welchen eine oder mehrere Fett- bzw. ölphasen neben einer bzw. mehreren Wasserphasen vorliegen. Von diesen Systemen sind am weitesten verbreitet wiederum die eigentlichen Emulsionen. Common manifestations of cosmetic or dermatological preparations are finely dispersed multiphase systems in which one or more fat or oil phases are present alongside one or more water phases. Of these systems, the most common are again the actual emulsions.
Aber auch emulgatorarme bzw. -freie Zubereitungen auf Basis sogenannter  But also emulsifier-poor or -free preparations based on so-called
Hydrodispersionen sind bekannt. Hydrodispersionen stellen Dispersionen einer flüssigen, halbfesten oder festen inneren (diskontinuierlichen) Lipidphase in einer äußeren wäßrigen (kontinuierlichen) Phase dar. Hydrodispersionen sind - wie auch Emulsionen, die sich durch eine ähnliche Phasenanordnung auszeichnen - metastabile Systeme und daher geneigt, in einen Zustand zweier in sich zusammenhängender diskreter Phasen überzugehen. In einer klassischen O/W-Emulsion verhindert die Wahl eines geeigneten Emulgators die Hydrodispersions are known. Hydrodispersions are dispersions of a liquid, semi-solid or solid internal (discontinuous) lipid phase in an external aqueous (continuous) phase. Hydrodispersions are - as well as emulsions characterized by a similar phase arrangement - metastable systems and therefore inclined to a state of two in to pass on coherent discrete phases. In a classic O / W emulsion, the choice of a suitable emulsifier prevents the
Phasentrennung. Im Gegensatz zur klassischen Emulsionen enthalten Hydrodispersionen aber nur sehr geringe Mengen an Emulgatoren bzw. können sogar gänzlich frei von Phase separation. In contrast to classical emulsions, however, hydrodispersions contain only very small amounts of emulsifiers or can even be completely free from
Emulgatoren sein. Be emulsifiers.
Als kosmetische oder medizinische Zubereitungen sind oftmals Emulsionen, insbesondere W/O-, O/W-, O/W/O oder W/O/W-Emulsionen, im Einsatz. Unter Emulsionen versteht man im Allgemeinen heterogene Systeme, die aus zwei nicht oder nur begrenzt miteinander mischbaren Flüssigkeiten bestehen, die üblicherweise als Phasen bezeichnet werden. In einer Emulsion ist eine der beiden Flüssigkeiten (W/O) in Form feinster Tröpfchen in der anderen Flüssigkeit dispergiert. Die Flüssigkeiten (rein oder als Lösungen) liegen in einer Emulsion in einer mehr oder weniger feinen Verteilung vor, die im Allgemeinen nur begrenzt stabil ist. Emulsions, in particular W / O, O / W, O / W / O or W / O / W emulsions, are often used as cosmetic or medical preparations. Emulsions are generally understood to mean heterogeneous systems which consist of two liquids which are immiscible or only slightly miscible with one another, which are usually referred to as phases. In an emulsion, one of the two liquids (W / O) is dispersed in the form of very fine droplets in the other liquid. The liquids (pure or as solutions) are present in an emulsion in a more or less fine distribution, which is generally limited stability.
Sind die beiden Flüssigkeiten Wasser und öl und liegen öltröpfchen fein verteilt in Wasser vor, so handelt es sich um eine öl-in-Wasser-Emulsion (O/W-Emulsion, z. B. Milch). Der Grundcharakter, zum Beispiel elektrische Leitfähigkeit, Sensorik, Anfärbbarkeit der kontinuierlichen Phase, einer O W-Emulsion ist durch das Wasser geprägt. Bei einer Wasser-in-öl-Emulsion (W/O-Emulsion, z. B. Butter) handelt es sich um das umgekehrte Prinzip, wobei der Grundcharakter hier durch das öl bestimmt wird. If the two liquids are water and oil and oil droplets are finely distributed in water, then it is an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion, eg milk). The basic character, for example electrical conductivity, sensor technology, dyeability of the continuous phase, an O W emulsion is characterized by the water. A water-in-oil emulsion (W / O emulsion, eg butter) is the inverse principle, the basic character here being determined by the oil.
BESTÄTIGUNGSKOPIE Der Stand der Technik kennt mehrere wesentliche Faktoren, die einen positiven Einfluss auf die Stabilität und Rheologie von Emulsionen haben. CONFIRMATION COPY The prior art knows several important factors that have a positive influence on the stability and rheology of emulsions.
Emulsionen benötigen zu ihrer Bildung und zur Stabilisierung im Allgemeinen einen oder mehrere Emulgatoren, Verdicker und/oder Konsistenzgeber, um über einen kosmetisch akzeptablen Zeitraum stabil zu sein, im Allgemeinen 1 Jahr nach dem öffnen einer kosmetischen Zubereitung. Emulsions generally require one or more emulsifiers, thickeners and / or bodying agents for their formation and stabilization to be stable over a cosmetically acceptable period of time, generally 1 year after opening a cosmetic preparation.
Dazu werden oft große Mengen an Emulgatoren benötigt. Dies wiederum kann bei  This often requires large amounts of emulsifiers. This in turn can be at
Konsumenten zu Missempfindungen bis zur Unverträglichkeit und im Extremfall sogar zu Phänomenen wie die Mallorca Akne o.ä. führen.  Consumers to misperceptions to intolerance and in extreme cases, even to phenomena such as Mallorca acne or similar. to lead.
Wünschenswert ist es daher Emulsionszubereitungen zur Verfügung zu stellen, die möglichst geringe Mengen an Emulgatoren umfassen und dennoch ausreichend stabil formuliert sind. It is therefore desirable to provide emulsion formulations which comprise the smallest possible amounts of emulsifiers and are nevertheless sufficiently stable in formulated.
Zur Stabilisierung von Emulsionen werden häufig ethoxilierte Emulgatoren verwendet, die, allgemein bekannt, zu belastbaren, stabilen Emulsionszubereitungen führen und oft einen relativ breiten sensorischen Bereich abdecken können. Bekannt ist jedoch, dass ethoxilierte Emulgatoren durch ihre PEG-Einheiten als Penetrationsenhancer wirken. To stabilize emulsions, ethoxylated emulsifiers are commonly used, which, as is well known, lead to strong, stable emulsion formulations and can often cover a relatively wide sensory range. However, it is known that ethoxylated emulsifiers act as penetration enhancers through their PEG units.
Polyethylenglykole und/oder Polyethylenglykolderivate und deren Abkömmlinge können die Haut durchlässiger machen und Schadstoffe somit in den Körper einschleusen. Aus diesem Grunde wird die Verwendung von ethoxilierten Substanzen in Kosmetika kontrovers diskutiert und ethoxilierte Emulgatoren sind daher vom Konsumenten nicht gewünscht. Weiterhin können unter Einwirkung von Sonnenstrahlung die photoinstabilen Polyethylene glycols and / or polyethylene glycol derivatives and their derivatives can make the skin more permeable and thus introduce harmful substances into the body. For this reason, the use of ethoxylated substances in cosmetics is controversial and ethoxylated emulsifiers are therefore not desired by the consumer. Furthermore, under the action of solar radiation, the photoinstable
Polyethylenglykolhaltigen (PEG)-Emulgatoren zersetzt werden und unschöne Polyethylene glycol-containing (PEG) emulsifiers are decomposed and unsightly
Hautreaktionen auslösen. Trigger skin reactions.
Wünschenswert ist es daher Emulsionszubereitung ohne ethoxilierte Emulgatoren zur Verfügung zu stellen, die aber dennoch möglichst breit variierbar und vor allem stabile Emulsionen darstellen. It is therefore desirable to provide emulsion preparation without ethoxylated emulsifiers, which, however, nevertheless represent the widest possible range of variations and above all stable emulsions.
Weiterhin müssen kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen einigen ästhetischen Gesichtspunkten genügen um eine ausreichende Verbraucherakzeptanz zu erlangen. Furthermore, cosmetic or dermatological preparations must meet some aesthetic criteria in order to obtain sufficient consumer acceptance.
Dem Fachmann sind Emulgatoren aus dem Lebensmittelbereich bekannt wie Glyceryl Stearate Citrat (Imwitor®) oder Polyglyceryl-10-Stearat. Auf der Suche nach geeigneten Emulatoren, die den gewünschten Anforderungen der Kosmetik oder Dermatologie entsprechen, scheinen diese Emulgatoren sich aber auszuschließen. The person skilled in the art emulsifiers from the food industry are known as glyceryl stearate citrate (Imwitor®) or polyglyceryl-10-stearate. In the search for suitable emulsifiers that meet the desired requirements of cosmetics or dermatology, these emulsifiers seem to be excluded.
Glyceryl Stearate Citrat muss in kosmetischen Zubereitungen in einer solch hohen Menge oder in Kombination mit Co-Emulgatoren eingesetzt werden um stabile Emulsionen zu erhalten, so dass der Wunsch nach verringertem Emulgatorgehalt mit Glyceryl Stearate Citrat nicht zu erfüllen ist.  Glyceryl stearate citrate must be used in cosmetic preparations in such a high amount or in combination with co-emulsifiers to obtain stable emulsions, so that the desire for reduced emulsifier content with glyceryl stearate citrate is not met.
Polyglyceryl-10-Stearat (PG-10-Stearat, CAS-Nr.: 79777-30-3) ist ein hydrophiler Emulgator und weist einen HLB von 12 auf.  Polyglyceryl-10-stearate (PG-10 stearate, CAS No .: 79777-30-3) is a hydrophilic emulsifier and has an HLB of 12.
Im Handel sind Polyglyceryl-10-Stearate als Mischungen beispielsweise erhältlich als Polyaldo 10-1-S (Lonza), Nikkol Decaglyn 1-S (Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.) oder Salacos PGMSV (The Nisshin OilliO Group, Ltd.).  Polyglyceryl-10 stearates are commercially available as blends, for example, as Polyaldo 10-1-S (Lonza), Nikkol Decaglyn 1-S (Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.) or Salacos PGMSV (The Nisshin OilliO Group, Ltd.).
Polyglyceryl-10-Stearat ist aus der Eiscremeherstellung bekannt und weist eine braune Farbe auf. Auch aufgrund dieses ästhetisch problematischen Umstandes schien sich die Anwendung in kosmetischen Emulsionen von selbst zu verbieten. Polyglyceryl-10-stearate is known from ice cream manufacture and has a brown color. Also due to this aesthetically problematic circumstance, the application in cosmetic emulsions seemed to ban itself.
Käuflich erwerbar ist Heliogel®, welches neben Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Phospholipids, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil auch Polyglyceryl- 10-Stearate umfasst. Heliogel®, which in addition to Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Hydrogenated Polyisobutenes, Phospholipids, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil also contains polyglyceryl-10 stearates, is available for purchase.
In kosmetischen Zubereitungen ist PG-10-Stearat lediglich als Bestandteil eines In cosmetic preparations, PG-10 stearate is merely part of a
Aftershavegeis genannt. In dieser Zubereitung sind 6 Gew.% PG-10-Stearat neben weiteren Emulgatoren wie Lecithin und PEG 150 distearat beschrieben (WO 2003082182). Called aftershave geese. In this preparation, 6 wt.% PG-10 stearate are described in addition to other emulsifiers such as lecithin and PEG 150 distearate (WO 2003082182).
JP 2005162664 offenbart PG-10-stearat in Haarfärbezubereitung umfassend Peroxide. Eine kosmetische topische Applikation schließt sich daher aus. JP 2005162664 discloses PG-10 stearate in hair dye preparation comprising peroxides. A cosmetic topical application therefore excludes.
US 5925615 offenbart PG-10-stearat in Shampooformulierungen umfassend US 5925615 discloses PG-10 stearate in shampoo formulations comprising
Polyethylenglykole und Parabene. Polyethylene glycols and parabens.
DE 19547679 A1 beschreibt eine Haarpflegeemulsionen mit PG-10-stearat und  DE 19547679 A1 describes a hair care emulsions with PG-10-stearate and
Konservierungsmitteln. Preservatives.
DE 19724587 A1 beschreibt eine Haarspülung mit PG-10-stearat sowie Polyethylenglykole und Parabene.  DE 19724587 A1 describes a hair rinse with PG-10-stearate and also polyethylene glycols and parabens.
WO 0027197 A1 offenbart Zubereitungen umfassend neben PG-10-stearat ein oder mehrere UV Filter, Lecithine, Polyethylenglykole und Parabene. DE 102008028821 A1 und DE 102008028822 A1 offenbaren Stiftzubereitungen mit PG-10- stearat. WO 0027197 A1 discloses preparations comprising besides PG-10-stearate one or more UV filters, lecithins, polyethylene glycols and parabens. DE 102008028821 A1 and DE 102008028822 A1 disclose stick preparations with PG-10 stearate.
DE 10213955 A1 offenbart PG-10-stearat in einer After Shave Lotion, wobei der Gehalt an PG-10-stearat 6% und mehr beträgt.  DE 10213955 A1 discloses PG-10 stearate in an aftershave lotion wherein the content of PG-10 stearate is 6% or more.
US 20060018853 beschreibt peel-off Zubereitung mit PG-10-stearat mit  US 20060018853 describes peel-off preparation with PG-10-stearate with
Decaglyceryltriisostearat und Lecithin. Decaglyceryl triisostearate and lecithin.
Überraschenderweise zeigte sich, dass sich Polyglyceryl-10-Stearat in kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen als Emulgator einsetzen lässt, ohne die Nachteile der färbenden Wirkung und der Instabilität zu zeigen. It has surprisingly been found that polyglyceryl-10-stearate can be used as an emulsifier in cosmetic or dermatological preparations without showing the disadvantages of the coloring effect and the instability.
Des Weiteren zeigte sich überraschenderweise, dass Zubereitungen mit Polyglyceryl-10- Stearat eine Stabilität wie mit ethoxilierten Emuigatoren aufweisen ohne die oben genannten Probleme der PEGs auslösen zu können.  Furthermore, it was surprisingly found that preparations with polyglyceryl-10-stearate have the same stability as with ethoxylated emuigators without being able to trigger the above-mentioned problems of the PEGs.
Die Erfindung ist eine kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitung umfassend The invention is a cosmetic or dermatological preparation comprising
Polyglyceryl-10-Stearat zu einem Anteil von weniger als 6 Gew.%, insbesondere im Bereich von 0,1 bis 2,8 Gew.%, bezogen auf die Gesamtmasse der Zubereitung, und umfassend weniger als 0,01 Gew.% ethoxilierte Emuigatoren, insbesondere kein PEG-40 Stearat. Die Zubereitungen weisen insbesondere keine (0%) ethoxilierte Emuigatoren , Polyglyceryl-10-stearate in a proportion of less than 6 wt.%, In particular in the range of 0.1 to 2.8 wt.%, Based on the total mass of the preparation, and comprising less than 0.01 wt.% Ethoxylated emuigators , especially no PEG-40 stearate. In particular, the preparations have no (0%) ethoxylated emuigators,
Polyethylenglykole und/oder Polyethylenglykolderivate auf. Polyethylene glycols and / or polyethylene glycol derivatives.
Ausgenommen von den erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen sind 07W- Emulsionszubereitungen 1 , 3, 4 und 5 bestehend aus Excluded from the preparations according to the invention are 07W emulsion preparations 1, 3, 4 and 5 consisting of
1 3 4 5  1 3 4 5
Panthenol 1 ,5 0 0,7 0  Panthenol 1, 5 0 0.7 0
Butylenglykol — — 5 10  Butylene glycol - - 5 10
Propylenglykol — 10 5 —  Propylene Glycol - 10 5 -
Benzethoniumchlorid 1 ,0 0,25 0,5 0,9  Benzethonium chloride 1, 0 0.25 0.5 0.9
Lauroylethylarginat 1 ,0 1 ,5 1 ,0 0,5  Lauroylethylarginate 1, 0 1, 5 1, 0 0.5
medizinisches Weissöl 0 6 0 0  medicinal white oil 0 6 0 0
Isopropylpalmitat 1 0 0 0  Isopropyl palmitate 1 0 0 0
Caprylic Capric Triglycerid 0 3 0 1 ,00  Caprylic Capric Triglyceride 0 3 0 1, 00
Cetearylalkohol 0 0 2,5 4,00  Cetearyl alcohol 0 0 2.5 4.00
Cetylalkohol 0 3 0 0  Cetyl alcohol 0 3 0 0
lineares Silikonöl 0 3 0 0,50  linear silicone oil 0 3 0 0,50
cyclisches Silikonöl 0 3 0 0  Cyclic silicone oil 0 3 0 0
C12-15 Alkylbenzoat 0 0 0 2,00 Sheabutter 0 0,5 0 0C12-15 alkyl benzoate 0 0 0 2.00 Shea butter 0 0.5 0 0
Dicaprylylether 0 0 10 0Dicaprylyl ether 0 0 10 0
Dicaprylylcarbonat 2 0 0 0Dicaprylyl carbonate 2 0 0 0
Glyceryl stearat 0 1 ,2 2,4 2,4Glyceryl stearate 0 1, 2 2,4 2,4
Tapiocastärke 1 0 0 0Tapioca starch 1 0 0 0
Glycerin 5 10 8 8Glycerol 5 10 8 8
Butylenglykol 0 0 1 0Butylene glycol 0 0 1 0
Zitronensäure 0,0050 0 0 0Citric acid 0.0050 0 0 0
Natronlauge 45% 0,35 0,01 0,25 1Sodium hydroxide 45% 0.35 0.01 0.25 1
Polyglyceryl-10 Myristat 0 0 0 0Polyglyceryl-10 myristate 0 0 0 0
Polyglyceryl-10 Stearat 0,7 1.8 1 1Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate 0.7 1.8 1 1
Polyacrylsäure, Na-Salz Polyacrylic acid, Na salt
(Carbopol 981 ) 0,5 0,02 0 0 (Carbopol 981) 0.5 0.02 0 0
Acrylic Acid/VP Crosspolymer 0 0 0,5 0,75Acrylic Acid / VP Crosspolymer 0 0 0.5 0.75
Trinatrium EDTA 0 1 1Trisodium EDTA 0 1 1
Ethylhexylmethoxycinnamat ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate
0 0 2 0 0 0 2 0
Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethan 0 0 0 2Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 0 0 0 2
Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonsäure, Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonsäure,
Natrium-Salz 0 0 0 2 Sodium salt 0 0 0 2
Ethylhexylsalicylat 0 0 0 2Ethylhexyl salicylate 0 0 0 2
Titandioxid, silikongecoated Titanium dioxide, silicone-coated
0 0 0,3600 0 0 0 0.3600 0
Octocrylen 0 0 0 2Octocrylene 0 0 0 2
Parfüm 0,10 0,35 0 0,20Perfume 0.10 0.35 0 0.20
Wasser ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 sowie O/W-Emulsionszubereitungen 46, 48, 49 und 50 bestehend aus Water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 and O / W emulsion preparations 46, 48, 49 and 50 consisting of
46 48 49 50 46 48 49 50
Panthenol 1.5 0 0,7 0Panthenol 1.5 0 0.7 0
Butylenglykol — — 5 10Butylene glycol - - 5 10
Propylenglykol — 10 5 — Propylene Glycol - 10 5 -
Methylisothiazolinone — — 0,06 —  Methylisothiazolinone - - 0.06 -
Benzethoniumchlorid 2,0 -- 0,15 —  Benzethonium chloride 2.0 - 0.15 -
Piroctonolamin — 0,25 0,15 —  Piroctonolamine - 0.25 0.15 -
Lauroylethylarginat — — 0,15 1.75 medizinisches Weißöl 0 3 0 0 Isopropylpalmitat 1 0 0 0 Lauroylethylarginate - - 0.15 1.75 medicinal white oil 0 3 0 0 Isopropyl palmitate 1 0 0 0
Caprylic/Capric Triglycerid 0 3 0 1 ,00  Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 0 3 0 1, 00
Cetearylalkohol 0 0 2,5 4,00  Cetearyl alcohol 0 0 2.5 4.00
Cetylalkohol 0 3 0 0  Cetyl alcohol 0 3 0 0
lineares Silikonöl 0 3 0 0,50  linear silicone oil 0 3 0 0,50
zyklisches Silikonöl 0 3 0 0  cyclic silicone oil 0 3 0 0
C 12-15 Alkylbenzoat 0 0 0 2,00  C 12-15 alkyl benzoate 0 0 0 2.00
Sheabutter 0 0,5 0 0  Shea butter 0 0.5 0 0
Dicaprylylether 0 0 10 0  Dicaprylyl ether 0 0 10 0
Dicaprylylcarbonat 2 0 0 0  Dicaprylyl carbonate 2 0 0 0
Glyceryl Stearate 0 1 ,2 2,4 2,4  Glyceryl Stearate 0 1, 2 2,4 2,4
Tapiocastärke 1 0 0 0  Tapioca starch 1 0 0 0
Glycerin 5 10 8 8  Glycerol 5 10 8 8
Zitronensäure 0,0050 0 0 0  Citric acid 0.0050 0 0 0
Natronlauge 45%ig 0,35 0,01 0,25 1  Sodium hydroxide 45% 0.35 0.01 0.25 1
Polyglyceryl-10 Myristat 0 0 0 0  Polyglyceryl-10 myristate 0 0 0 0
Polyglyceryl-10 Stearat 0,7 1 ,8 1 1  Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate 0.7 1, 8 1 1
Polyacrylsäure, Na-Salz 0,5 0,02 0 0  Polyacrylic acid, Na salt 0.5 0.02 0 0
Acrylic AcidA P Crosspolymer 0 0 0,5 0,75  Acrylic AcidA P Crosspolymer 0 0 0.5 0.75
Trinatrium EDTA 0 1 1  Trisodium EDTA 0 1 1
Ethylhexylmethoxycinnamat  ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate
0 0 2 0  0 0 2 0
Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethan 0 0 0 2  Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 0 0 0 2
Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonsäure  Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonsäure
0 0 0 2  0 0 0 2
Ethylhexylsalicylat 0 0 0 2  Ethylhexyl salicylate 0 0 0 2
Titandioxid+  titanium dioxide +
Trimethoxycaprylylsilan 0 0 0,3600 0  Trimethoxycaprylylsilane 0 0 0.3600 0
Octocrylen 0 0 0 2  Octocrylene 0 0 0 2
Parfüm 0,10 0,35 0 0,20  Perfume 0.10 0.35 0 0.20
Wasser ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 wobei die Zahlenwerte Gewichtsanteile bezogen auf die Gesamtmasse der Zubereitungen darstellen.  Water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 wherein the numerical values represent parts by weight based on the total mass of the preparations.
Die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen basieren vorteilhaft auf einer Emulsion, bevorzugt einer O/W-Emulsion, oder Hydrodispersion. Die so hergestellten Zubereitungen, bevorzugt Emulsionen, weisen eine niedrigen Emulgatorgehalt von weniger als 6% auf und erfüllen somit den Wunsch nach gut verträglichen, milden Produkten, ohne das die Stabilität beeinträchtigt wird. Weniger als 6 Gew.% bzw. weniger als 3 Gew.% PG-10-Stearat bedeutet nicht 0 Gew.%. Bevorzugt beträgt der Mindestanteil an PG-10-Stearat 0,1 Gew.%. The preparations according to the invention are advantageously based on an emulsion, preferably an O / W emulsion, or hydrodispersion. The preparations thus prepared, preferably emulsions, have a low emulsifier content of less than 6% and fulfill Thus, the desire for well-tolerated, mild products, without compromising the stability. Less than 6% by weight or less than 3% by weight of PG-10 stearate does not mean 0% by weight. The minimum proportion of PG-10 stearate is preferably 0.1% by weight.
Überraschenderweise sind die mit weniger als 6 Gew.% Polyglyceryl-10-Stearat  Surprisingly, those with less than 6 wt.% Polyglyceryl-10-stearate
hergestellten Zubereitungen stabil für einen Zeitraum von mindestens 3 Jahre bei  prepared preparations stable for a period of at least 3 years
Raumtemperatur und mindestens 6 Monate bei 40°C Lagerung.  Room temperature and at least 6 months at 40 ° C storage.
Des Weiteren zeigte sich überraschend, dass Polyglyceryl-10-Stearat, auch als einziger Emulgator eingesetzt, zu stabilen Emulsionen führt. Ein Verzicht auf weitere zusätzliche Emulgatoren ist damit möglich und kommt so dem Wunsch nach verringerten  Furthermore, it was surprisingly found that polyglyceryl-10-stearate, also used as the only emulsifier, leads to stable emulsions. A waiver of additional emulsifiers is thus possible and comes so the desire for reduced
Emulgatorgehalten nach.  Emulsifier contents after.
Zur Stabilisierung oder Verdickung von Emulsionen werden häufig Fettalkohole verwendet. Der Sammelbegriff Fettalkohole steht für einwertige primäre Alkohole mit 8 bis 22 To stabilize or thicken emulsions, fatty alcohols are often used. The generic term fatty alcohols stands for monohydric primary alcohols with 8 to 22
Kohlenstoff-Atomen und verzweigten oder unverzweigten Ketten. Sie werden durch eine Reduktion der Triglyceride, Fettsäuren bzw. Fettsäuremethylester gewonnen und bilden elementare Grundstoffe zur Herstellung diverser chemischer Folgeprodukte. Was die Kettenlänge betrifft, ist eine gerade Anzahl an C-Atomen ein Kennzeichen für den  Carbon atoms and branched or unbranched chains. They are obtained by a reduction of the triglycerides, fatty acids or fatty acid methyl esters and form elementary raw materials for the production of various chemical secondary products. Regarding the chain length, an even number of carbon atoms is a hallmark of the
natürlichen Ursprung. natural origin.
Als klassische Komponenten für kosmetische oder dermatologische Cremes und Salben sind Kettenlängen von 16 und 18 C-Atomen geeignet. In Abhängigkeit ihrer Molmasse handelt es sich um hochsiedende ölige Flüssigkeiten, wachsweiche Massen oder feste Produkte z.B. Octanol (Caprylalkohol), Octenol, Octadienol, Decanol (Caprinalkohol), Decenol, Decadienol, Dodecanol (Laurylalkohol), Dodecenol, Dodecadienol, Tetradecanol (Myristylalkohol), Hexadecanol (Cetylalkohol), Octadecanol (Stearylalkohol oder Isostearylalkohol),  Chain components of 16 and 18 C atoms are suitable as classical components for cosmetic or dermatological creams and ointments. Depending on their molecular weight, they are high-boiling oily liquids, waxy masses or solid products, e.g. Octanol (caprylic alcohol), octenol, octadienol, decanol (capric alcohol), decenol, decadienol, dodecanol (lauryl alcohol), dodecenol, dodecadienol, tetradecanol (myristyl alcohol), hexadecanol (cetyl alcohol), octadecanol (stearyl alcohol or isostearyl alcohol),
Octadecenol (Oleylalkohol oder Erucylalkohol), Octadecendiol (Ricinolalkohol), Octadecenol (oleyl alcohol or erucyl alcohol), octadecene diol (ricinoleic alcohol),
Octadecadienol (Linoleylalkohol), Octadecatrienol (Linolenylalkohol), Eicosanol Octadecadienol (linoleyl alcohol), octadecatrienol (linolenyl alcohol), eicosanol
(Arachidylalkohol), Eicosenol (Gadoleylalkohol), Docosanol (Behenylalkohol) oder Docosenol (Erucylalkohol oder Brassidylalkohol). Besonderen Ausführungsform werden als Mischungen von gesättigten primären Alkoholen mit 14-20 Kohlenstoffatomen angeboten, insbesondere Cetylstearylalkohol. (Arachidyl alcohol), eicosenol (gadoleyl alcohol), docosanol (behenyl alcohol) or docosenol (erucyl alcohol or brassidyl alcohol). Particular embodiments are offered as mixtures of saturated primary alcohols having 14-20 carbon atoms, especially cetylstearyl alcohol.
Fettalkohole bewirken jedoch ein charakteristisches, wachsiges, stumpfes und reichhaltiges Hautgefühl. Je nach Produkt, Zielgruppe und/oder Produktkonzept ist diese Eigenschaft aber nicht immer gewollt.  However, fatty alcohols cause a characteristic, waxy, dull and rich skin feeling. Depending on the product, target group and / or product concept, this property is not always wanted.
Wünschenswert ist es daher Emulsionszubereitung ohne Fettalkohole zur Verfügung zu stellen, die aber dennoch möglichst breit variierbar und vor allem stabile Emulsionen darstellen. Dies ist erfindungsgemäß möglich. Der Anteil an Fettalkoholen, einwertige primäre Alkohole mit 8 bis 22 Kohlenstoff-Atomen und verzweigten oder unverzweigten Ketten, beträgt daher vorteilhaft maximal 1 Gew.%, bevorzugt 0 Gew. %, bezogen auf die Gesamtmasse der Zubereitung. It is therefore desirable to provide emulsion preparation without fatty alcohols, which, however, nevertheless represent the widest possible range of variations and above all stable emulsions. This is possible according to the invention. The proportion of fatty alcohols, monohydric primary alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms and branched or unbranched chains is therefore advantageously not more than 1% by weight, preferably 0% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation.
Weiterhin zeigte sich überraschenderweise, dass PG-10-Stearat bei der Emulsionsbildung sowohl in die Wasser- als auch in die Fettphase gegeben werden kann. In beiden Fällen wird das gleiche Produkt erhalten. Die Abweichungen in der Konsistenz sind nicht signifikant und für einen Konsumenten nicht relevant. Furthermore, it was surprisingly found that PG-10 stearate can be added to the emulsion formation both in the water and in the fat phase. In both cases, the same product is obtained. The differences in consistency are not significant and not relevant to a consumer.
Abbildung 1 zeigt diese Konsistenzuntersuchungen. Die Konsistenz wurde mit einem Konsistenzbestimmungsgerät nach Fligge (gemäß DE 29 09 087) ermittelt.  Figure 1 shows these consistency studies. The consistency was determined using a consistency determination device according to Fligge (according to DE 29 09 087).
Auf der X-Achse ist zum Einen der Wert der Konsistenz der zu vergleichenden Formeln A und B nach einem Tag (links) und nach 30 Tagen (rechts) aufgetragen. Die Formel A unterscheidet sich von der Formel B darin, dass der Emulgator PG-10-Stearate im Fall A in die Wasserphase und im Fall B in die Fettphase gegeben wurde. Alle weiteren Schritte waren für beide Formulierungen identisch.  On the X-axis, on the one hand, the value of the consistency of the formulas A and B to be compared is plotted after one day (left) and after 30 days (right). Formula A differs from formula B in that the PG-10 Stearate emulsifier was added to the water phase in case A and to the fat phase in case B. All further steps were identical for both formulations.
Auf der y- Achse ist der Konsistenzwert aufgetragen. Man erkennt, dass beide Formeln nach 1 Tag sogar numerisch die gleiche Konsistenz haben, also identisch sind bezüglich der Konsistenz. Nach 30 Tagen gibt es zwar einen numerischen Unterschied, der jedoch vom Konsumenten nicht nachvollziehbar ist.  The consistency value is plotted on the y axis. It can be seen that both formulas even have the same consistency numerically after one day, ie they are identical in terms of consistency. After 30 days there is a numerical difference, but the consumer can not understand it.
Die Untersuchungen belegen die außergewöhnlichen Eigenschaften von PG-10-Stearat. Da es nicht relevant ist, in welche Phase man den Emulgator gibt, hat man in der  The studies confirm the extraordinary properties of PG-10 stearate. Since it is not relevant in which phase you give the emulsifier, you have in the
Phasenaufteilung in der Produktion größere Flexibilität. Phase distribution in production greater flexibility.
Ein Verfahren zur Herstellung kosmetischer oder dermatologischer Emulsionszubereitungen mit Polyglyceryl-10-Stearat als Emulgator, bevorzugt einzigen Emulgator, ermöglicht die Zugabe sowohl in die Wasser- und/oder in die ölphase der Emulsion.  A process for the preparation of cosmetic or dermatological emulsion preparations with polyglyceryl-10-stearate as emulsifier, preferably single emulsifier, allows the addition both in the water and / or in the oil phase of the emulsion.
PG-10-sterat haltige Zubereitungen lassen sich somit einfacher herstellen und geben dem Fachmann eine hervorragende Flexibilität bezüglich Viskosität, Sensorik, Applikationsform und Toleranz gegenüber verschiedenster Inhaltsstoffe und der Produktion. PG-10-containing preparations can thus be produced more easily and give the person skilled an outstanding flexibility with regard to viscosity, sensor technology, application form and tolerance to a wide variety of ingredients and production.
Den Einsatz von PG-10-Stearat in Kosmetika auf möglichst geringe Anteile zu begrenzen mag für einen Kosmetikfachmann aufgrund der braunen Farbe des PG-10-Stearats nahe gelegen haben, jedoch müsste er aufgrund der geringen Anteile dann auch von einer verminderten emulgierenden Wirkung ausgehen. Dies hat sich bei einer Verwendung von weniger als 6 Gew.% PG-10-Stearat, insbesondere im Bereich von 0,1 bis 2,8 Gew.%, bezogen auf die Gesamtmenge der Zubereitung, überraschenderweise aber nicht bewahrheitet. In mehreren Langzeitstabilitätsuntersuchungen zeigten die PG-10-Stearat haltigen Limiting the use of PG-10 stearate in cosmetics to the lowest possible levels may have been obvious to a cosmetic professional due to the brown color of the PG-10 stearate, but due to the low levels it would then have to emanate from a reduced emulsifying effect. However, surprisingly, this did not materialize when using less than 6% by weight PG-10 stearate, in particular in the range from 0.1 to 2.8% by weight, based on the total amount of the preparation. In several long-term stability studies showed the PG-10 stearate containing
Zubereitungen keine Instabilitäten, Phasentrennung, Koaleszenz, Ostwald-Reifung oder Veränderung der Tröpfchengröße mit der Zeit oder Aufrahmung. Die Formulierungen, wie sie in den Beispielen offenbart sind, waren mindestens 6 Monate bei Raumtemperatur sowie bei 40°C optisch stabil. Das heißt es wurde keine Phasentrennung oder Phasenabscheidung beobachtet.  Preparations no instabilities, phase separation, coalescence, Ostwald ripening or change in droplet size with time or creaming. The formulations as disclosed in the examples were optically stable for at least 6 months at room temperature and at 40 ° C. That is, no phase separation or phase separation was observed.
Weiterer überraschender Effekt zeigt sich in der Milde zur Haut der erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen.  Another surprising effect is found in the mildness of the skin of the preparations according to the invention.
Milde lässt sich über verschiedene Aspekte beschreiben. Milde kann bedeuten, dass ein Produkt keine Hautrötung, kein Brennen oder Jucken verursacht oder dass die Haut durch Verwendung des Produktes nicht austrocknet. Dies sind jedoch alles Indikatoren, die man erst durch die Verwendung am Konsumenten festmachen kann. Ziel in der Entwicklung kosmetischer oder dermatologischer Produkte ist jedoch unter anderem Produkte in dem Markt zu bringen, die bei dem Konsumenten ebensolche Reaktion nicht hervorrufen. Aus diesem Grund gibt es verschiedene Tests um vorher schon ein solches Potential der„Milde" aufzuzeigen.  Mildness can be described by various aspects. Mildness may mean that a product does not cause redness, burning or itching or that the skin does not dry out when using the product. However, these are all indicators that can only be fixed by the use of the consumer. However, the goal in the development of cosmetic or dermatological products is, inter alia, to bring products into the market which do not evoke the same reaction from the consumer. For this reason, there are various tests to show already such a potential of "mildness".
Der Experte kennt derlei Tests zum Beispiel den Repetitiven Epikutantest. Der repetitive, okklusive Epikutantest mit einer bis zu viermaligen Applikation des Prüfmusters auf demselben Hautareal an vier aufeinander folgenden Tagen für eine festgelegte Zeit dient zur Differenzierung der Hautverträglichkeit von Hautpflegeprodukten und zur Optimierung von Produkten. Um Vergleiche zwischen den Hautverträglichkeiten verschiedener Prüfmuster zu ermöglichen, sollte ein Prüfmuster mit bekanntem Irritationsprofil mit getestet werden. The expert knows such tests for example the Repetitive patch test. The repetitive, occlusive epicutaneous test with up to four applications of the test sample on the same skin area for four consecutive days for a defined period of time serves to differentiate the skin compatibility of skin care products and to optimize products. In order to allow comparisons between the skin tolerances of different test samples, a test sample with a known irritation profile should be tested.
Das Abbruchkriterium für weitere Applikationen ist das Auftreten einer klar erkennbaren Hautirritation. Zur Auswertung wird angegeben, ob überhaupt und wenn, nach der wievielten Applikation eine Hautveränderung aufgetreten ist. Reaktionen, die bereits zu einem frühen Zeitpunkt auftreten, sind stärker zu bewerten als Reaktionen nach den späteren The termination criterion for further applications is the occurrence of a clearly recognizable skin irritation. For the evaluation, it is stated whether, and if so, after how many applications a skin change has occurred. Reactions that occur at an early stage are to be evaluated more strongly than reactions after the later ones
Applikationen. Applications.
In folgenden Untersuchungen wurde die Hautfreundlichkeit/Milde der erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitung im Vergleich zu Zubereitungen mit anderen hydrophile Emulgatoren getestet. Hydrophile Emulgatoren sind häufig auffällig bezüglich ihrer Milde/Hautfreundlichkeit. Das heißt, dass sie in Hauttests schneller und stärker und bei mehr Personen zu einer Reaktion führen.  In the following investigations, the skin friendliness / mildness of the preparation according to the invention was tested in comparison with preparations with other hydrophilic emulsifiers. Hydrophilic emulsifiers are often conspicuous for their mildness / skin friendliness. This means that they lead to faster and stronger skin tests and more reactions to more people.
Dazu wurden 4 verschiedene Zubereitungen (C, D, E, F) mit unterschiedlichen hydrophilen Emulgatoren (Polyglyceryl-10-Stearat, Sodium Cetearyl Sulfat, Potassium Cetyl Phosphat, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamat) und ansonsten gleicher Zusammensetzung (siehe Tabelle 1 ) im repitativen Epikutantests hinsichtlich ihrer Hautreaktionen auf 30 Probanden (x) getestet. Tabelle 1 : Zubereitungen im repitativen Epikutantest For this purpose, 4 different preparations (C, D, E, F) with different hydrophilic emulsifiers (polyglyceryl-10-stearate, sodium cetearyl sulfate, potassium cetyl phosphate, sodium stearoyl glutamate) and otherwise the same composition (see Table 1) in repitative patch tests Their skin reactions were tested on 30 subjects (x). Table 1: Preparations in Repitative Epicutaneous Test
Die Tabelle fasst die Testergebnisse des Repitativen Epikutantests zusammen. The table summarizes the test results of the Repeative Patch Test.
Hier ist eindeutig sichtbar, dass bei der PG-10-Stearat haltigen Zubereitung (C) nur 6 von 30 Here it is clearly visible that in PG-10 stearate containing preparation (C) only 6 out of 30
Personen sichtbar reagiert haben. Die Vergleichsprodukte (D, E und F) mit hydrophilenPeople have visibly reacted. The comparison products (D, E and F) with hydrophilic
Emulgatoren lösen mit jeweils 14, 22 und 25 Reaktionen deutlich stärkere Effekte aus. Je niedriger die Anzahl der beobachteten Reaktionen, desto milder ist das Produkt. Emulsifiers trigger significantly stronger effects with 14, 22 and 25 reactions, respectively. The lower the number of reactions observed, the milder the product.
Das heißt, dass die Verwendung von PG-10-Stearat zu milderen und besser verträglichen That is, the use of PG-10 stearate to milder and better tolerated
Produkten führt. Und damit die Verwendung von PG-10-Stearat anderen O/W Emulgatoren vorzuziehen ist. Leads products. And so that the use of PG-10 stearate is preferable to other O / W emulsifiers.
Die Verwendung von weniger als 6 Gew.% Polyglyceryl-10-Stearat, bezogen auf die Gesamtmasse der Zubereitung, zur Herstellung kosmetischer oder dermatologischer Zubereitungen führt zu einer verbesserten Hautverträglichkeit und Milde gegenüber Zubereitungen mit anderen hydrophilen Emulgator/en und ansonsten gleicher Zusammensetzung. The use of less than 6% by weight of polyglyceryl-10-stearate, based on the total mass of the preparation, for the preparation of cosmetic or dermatological preparations leads to improved skin tolerance and mildness Preparations with other hydrophilic emulsifier (s) and otherwise the same composition.
Den erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen können zusätzliche Emulgatoren zugesetzt werden. Dies ist aber erfindungsgemäß nicht in allen Fällen erforderlich oder zwingend. Additional emulsifiers may be added to the preparations according to the invention. However, this is not required or mandatory in all cases according to the invention.
Wenn zusätzliche Emulgatoren hinzugefügt werden, sind diese bevorzugt zu wählen aus der Gruppe der Emulgatoren, die bei 25°C fest, pastös oder flüssig und nicht ethoxiliert sind. Besonders bevorzugte zusätzliche Emulgatoren sind zu wählen aus der Gruppe 1 ,2- Propandiolfettsäureester, Acetoglyceride, acetylierte Mono-/Diglyceride, Alkali- bzw.  If additional emulsifiers are added, these are preferably to be selected from the group of emulsifiers which are solid, pasty or liquid at 25 ° C and not ethoxylated. Particularly preferred additional emulsifiers are to be selected from the group 1, 2 Propandiolfettsäureester, acetoglycerides, acetylated mono- / diglycerides, alkali or
Ammonium-Seifen, Ammoniumphosphatide, Sorbitanmonoisostearat, C10-C22 Fettsäuren, Cetearyl Sulfat, Cetearylglucoside, Cetylphosphat, Cetylstearylalkohol in Kombination mit Natrium Cetylstearylsulfat, Citraglyceridester, Citronensäuremonoglyceride,  Ammonium soaps, ammonium phosphatides, sorbitan monoisostearate, C10-C22 fatty acids, cetearyl sulfate, cetearyl glucosides, cetyl phosphate, cetylstearyl alcohol in combination with sodium cetyl stearyl sulfate, citrate glyceride esters, citric acid monoglycerides,
Diacetylweinsäuremonoglyceride, Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearat (Isolan PDI), Ei- Lecithin, Emulgator YN (Handelsbezeichnung), Essigsäuremonoglyceride, gemischte Propylenglykol-Glycerinester, Glyceryllaurat, Glycerylmyristat, Glyceryloleat in Kombination mit Propylenglycol, Glycerylstearat, Glycerylstearat SE, Glycerylstearatcitrat, Glycol Distearat, Isostearyldiglycerylsuccinat, Isostearylglycerylether, Kaliumcetylphosphat,  Diacetyltartaric acid monoglycerides, diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (Isolan PDI), egg lecithin, emulsifier YN (trade name), acetic acid monoglycerides, mixed propylene glycol glycerol esters, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl oleate in combination with propylene glycol, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate SE, glyceryl stearate citrate, glycol distearate, isostearyl diglyceryl succinate , Isostearylglyceryl ether, potassium cetyl phosphate,
Lactoglyceride, lactylierte Mono-/Diglyceride, Lecithin, Methylglucosesesquistearat,  Lactoglycerides, lactylated mono- / diglycerides, lecithin, methyl glucose sesquistearate,
Milchsäuremonoglyceride, Mono- und Diglyceride von Speisefettsäuren verestert mit Essigsäure und Weinsäure, Monoglyceridacetat, Monoglyceridcitrat, Monoglycerid- diacetyltartrat, Monoglyceridlactat, Monoglyceridtartrat, Na-,K- und Ca-Salze der Stearoyl-2- lactylmilchsäure, Na-,K- und Ca-stearoyl-2-lactoyl-lactat, Na-,K- und Ca-stearoyl-2- lactyllactat, Na-,K- und Ca-stearoylmilchsäure, Na-Salz der Laurylschwefelsäure, Lactic acid monoglycerides, mono- and diglycerides of fatty acids esterified with acetic acid and tartaric acid, monoglyceride acetate, monoglyceride citrate, monoglyceride diacetyl tartrate, monoglyceride lactate, monoglyceride tartrate, Na, K and Ca salts of stearoyl-2-lactyl lactic acid, Na, K and Ca; stearoyl-2-lactoyl-lactate, Na, K and Ca stearoyl-2-lactyllactate, Na, K and Ca stearoyl lactic acid, Na salt of lauryl sulfuric acid,
Natriumcetylphosphat, Natriumcetylstearylsulfat, Natriumdodecylsulfat und/oder Sodium cetyl phosphate, sodium cetyl stearyl sulfate, sodium dodecyl sulfate and / or
Dodecylhydrogensulfat, Polyglycerin-3-Diisostearat (LameformTGl), Polyglycerinester der interesterifizierten Ricinolsäure, Polyglycerinfettsäureester, Polyglycerin-Polycrinoleat, Polyglyceryl Dimerate Isostearat, Polyglyceryl Polyricinoleat (Admul WOL 1403), Dodecyl hydrogen sulfate, polyglycerol-3-diisostearate (LameformTGl), polyglycerol ester of interesterified ricinoleic acid, polyglycerol fatty acid ester, polyglycerol polycrinoleate, polyglyceryl dimerate isostearate, polyglyceryl polyricinoleate (Admul WOL 1403),
Polyglyceryl-1 Dipolyhydroxystearat (Dehymuls PGPH), Polyglyceryl-2-laurat, Polyglyceryl-2- sesquiisostearat, Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether Polyglyceryl-1 dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls PGPH), polyglyceryl-2-laurate, polyglyceryl-2-sesquiisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 beeswax (Cera Bellina), polyglyceryl-3 cetyl ether
(Chimexane NL), Polyglyceryl-3 Distearat (Cremophor GS 32), Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearat (Tego Care 450), Polyglyceryl-3 Oleat, Polyglyceryl-3-methylglycosedistearat, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprat (Polyglycerol Caprate T2010190), Polyglyceryl-4 (Chimexane NL), polyglyceryl-3 distearate (Cremophor GS 32), polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate (Tego Care 450), polyglyceryl-3-oleate, polyglyceryl-3-methylglycose distearate, polyglyceryl-4-caprate (polyglycerol caprate T2010190), polyglyceryl-4
Diisostearat/Polyhydroxystearat/Sebacate (Isolan GPS), Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearat (Isolan Gl 34), Polyoxyethylen-stearinsäureester, Polyoxylstearat-Mono-/Diglycerid, Propylengly- colstearat SE, Propylenglykolfettsäureester, Propylenglykolmono-/di-fettsäureester, Raps- Lecithin, Saccharoglyceride, Saccharoseester von Speisefettsäuren, Soja-Lecithin, Sorbate bsp. Sorbitanmonolaurat (Sorbat 20), Sorbitandicitrat, Sorbitandierucat, Sorbitandihydroxystearat, Sorbitandiisostearat, Sorbitandimaleat, Sorbitandioleat, Diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate (Isolan GPS), polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (Isolan GI 34), polyoxyethylene stearic acid ester, polyoxylstearate mono- / diglyceride, propylene glycol stearate SE, propylene glycol fatty acid ester, propylene glycol mono- / di-fatty acid ester, rapeseed lecithin, sucrose glycerides , Sucrose esters of fatty acids, soy lecithin, sorbates bsp. Sorbitan monolaurate (sorbate 20), sorbitan di-citrate, sorbitan butucate, Sorbitan dihydroxystearate, sorbitan diisostearate, sorbitan adipate, sorbitan dioleate,
Sorbitandiricinoleat, Sorbitanditartrat, Sorbitanmonocitrat, Sorbitanmonoerucat,  Sorbitan dicinoleate, sorbitan ditartrate, sorbitan monocitrate, sorbitan monoerucate,
Sorbitanmonohydroxystearat, Sorbitanmonomaleat, Sorbitanmonoricinoleat,  Sorbitan monohydroxystearate, sorbitan monomaleate, sorbitan monoricinoleate,
Sorbitanmonostearat (Sorbat 60), Sorbitanmonotartrat, Sorbitansesquicitrat,  Sorbitan monostearate (sorbate 60), sorbitan monotartrate, sorbitan sesquiterate,
Sorbitansesquierucat, Sorbitansesquihydroxystearat, Sorbitansesquiisostearat,  Sorbitan sesquierucate, sorbitan sesquihydroxystearate, sorbitan sesquiisostearate,
Sorbitansesquimaleat, Sorbitansesquioleat, Sorbitansesquiricinoleat, Sorbitansesquitartrat, Sorbitantricitrat, Sorbitantrierucat, Sorbitantrihydroxystearat, Sorbitantriisostearat,  Sorbitan sesquimlate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan squiricinoleate, sorbitan sesquitartrate, sorbitan tricitrate, sorbitan trierucate, sorbitan trihydroxystearate, sorbitan triisostearate,
Sorbitanmonooleat, Sorbitantrimaleat, Sorbitantrioleat, Sorbitantriricinoleat, Sorbitantristearat (Sorbat 65), Sorbitantritartrat, Stearinsäure sowie ihrer Salze, Sucroester, Triethylcitrat, Weinsäureglyceride, Weinsäuremonoglyceride und/oder Zuckerfettsäureester, besonders bevorzugt ist Glycerylstearat.  Sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan trimaleate, sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan triricinoleate, sorbitan tristearate (sorbate 65), sorbitan tritartrate, stearic acid and its salts, sucrose, triethyl citrate, tartaric acid glycerides, tartaric acid glycerides and / or sugar fatty acid esters, particularly preferred is glyceryl stearate.
Bevorzugt umfassen die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen keinen weiteren zusätzlichen Emulgator ausser PG-10-Stearat. Der Anteil an zusätzlichen Emulgatoren sollte somit bevorzugt unter 0,01 Gew.% liegen, bezogen auf die Gesamtmasse der Zubereitung, um als erfindungsgemäß - ohne zusätzlichen Emulgator - zu gelten. The preparations according to the invention preferably comprise no further additional emulsifier except PG-10 stearate. The proportion of additional emulsifiers should therefore preferably be less than 0.01% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation, in order to be considered to be present according to the invention-without additional emulsifier.
Lecithine ist der klassische Name für eine Gruppe chemischer Verbindungen, die so genannten Phosphatidylcholine. Dabei handelt es sich um Phospholipide, die sich aus Fettsäuren, Glycerin, Phosphorsäure und Cholin zusammensetzen. Lecithine sind Lecithins is the classic name for a group of chemical compounds called phosphatidylcholines. These are phospholipids, which are composed of fatty acids, glycerol, phosphoric acid and choline. Lecithins are
Bestandteile der Zellmembran tierischer und pflanzlicher Lebewesen. Sie sind Begleitstoffe in Fetten und ölen. Sie ermöglichen das Emulgieren von Fetten und Wasser und sind somit wichtige natürliche Tenside (Emulgatoren) für Nahrungs- und Futtermittel. Lecithine sind in der EU als Lebensmittelzusatzstoff (E 322) für Lebensmittel allgemein zugelassen mit Höchstmengenbeschränkung ausschließlich bei Säuglingsnahrung. In der Medizin und in der Kosmetik werden sie auch als Wirkstoff, in der Diätetik als Nahrungsergänzungsmittel genutzt. Den Lecithinen werden neben ihren strukturbildenden Eigenschaften zahlreiche funktionelle Aufgaben zugeschrieben. Sie sind sowohl am anabolen Lipidstoffwechsel als auch am katabolen Fettstoffwechsel aktiv beteiligt. Components of the cell membrane of animal and plant organisms. They are accompanying substances in fats and oils. They allow the emulsification of fats and water and are therefore important natural surfactants (emulsifiers) for food and feed. Lecithins are widely accepted in the EU as a food additive (E 322) for foodstuffs with a maximum limit on infant formula only. In medicine and cosmetics, they are also used as an active ingredient, in dietetics as a dietary supplement. In addition to their structure-forming properties, lecithins are ascribed numerous functional tasks. They are actively involved in both anabolic lipid metabolism and catabolic lipid metabolism.
Lecithine sind daher erfindungsgemäß auszuschließen. Lecithins are therefore excluded according to the invention.
Die kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen gemäß der Erfindung können ferner kosmetische Hilfsstoffe und weitere Wirkstoffe enthalten, wie sie üblicherweise in solchen Zubereitungen verwendet werden, z. B. Konservierungsmittel, Konservierungshelfer, Bakterizide, Substanzen zum Verhindern des Schäumens, Farbstoffe und Farbpigmente, Verdickungsmittel, anfeuchtende und/oder feuchthaltende Substanzen, Fette, öle, Wachse oder andere übliche Bestandteile einer kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Formulierung wie Alkohole, Polyole, Polymere, Schaumstabilisatoren, Elektrolyte, organische Lösungsmittel oder Silikonderivate, Selbstbräuner, Puffer, pH Regulatoren, Pflanzliche The cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention may further contain cosmetic adjuvants and other active ingredients, such as are commonly used in such preparations, for. As preservatives, preservatives, bactericides, substances for preventing foaming, dyes and color pigments, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other conventional ingredients of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives, self-tanner, buffers, pH regulators, vegetable
Extrakte, Tenside, Treibgase, Puder, Sebumabsorbierende Substanzen, UV-Filter, Wirkstoffe wie zum Beispiel Anti Age, Anti-Cellulite, Anti Akne, Anti-Rosacea, Anti-Neurodermitis, Antioxidantien, Moisturiser, Chelatbildner, Antitraspirantien, Bleich und Färbemittel etc, sofern der Zusatz die geforderten Eigenschaften hinsichtlich PEG-freiheit, Emulgatorgehalt, geforderter Stabilität und Milde nicht behindert.  Extracts, surfactants, propellants, powders, sebum-absorbing substances, UV filters, active ingredients such as anti-aging, anti-cellulite, anti-acne, anti-rosacea, anti-eczema, antioxidants, moisturizers, chelating agents, antitraspirants, bleaching and coloring agents, etc .; if the additive does not hinder the required properties with respect to PEG-freedom, emulsifier content, required stability and mildness.
Bevorzugte Lipidkomponenten in den erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen sind C 12-15 Alkylbenzoat, Isopropylpalmitat, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride und/oder Octyldodecanol. Preferred lipid components in the preparations according to the invention are C 12-15 alkyl benzoate, isopropyl palmitate, caprylic / capric triglycerides and / or octyldodecanol.
Bevorzugte Hilfsstoffe sind bevorzugt zu wählen aus der Gruppe Acetyl Preferred auxiliaries are preferably to be selected from the group acetyl
Trifluoromethylphenyl Valylglycine, Amaranthus Caudatus Extract, Amaranthus Extract, Andrographolide, Anthemis Nobilis Flower, Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Maleate, Ätherische öle, Avena Aqua, BGT, Biosaccharide Gum 3, Butyl Hydroquinone, Cassia Alata, Trifluoromethylphenyl Valylglycine, Amaranthus Caudatus Extract, Amaranthus Extract, Andrographolide, Anthemis Nobilis Flower, Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Maleate, Essential Oils, Avena Aqua, BGT, Biosaccharides Gum 3, Butyl Hydroquinone, Cassia Alata,
Chrysanthenum Parthenium Lauryl Polyglucoside, Citrus Aurantium Duicis Blossoms, Coffea Robusta, Coleus Barbatus Extract, Dimethoxy Di-p-Cresol, Disodium NADH, Dodecene, Echium Lycopsis Oil, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Erythritol, Ethyl Bisiminomethylguaiacol Manganese Chloride, Ethyl Glucoside, Eucalyptol, Glucosylrutin, Glycyrrhiza Inflata, Guanosine, Heptapeptide-6, Hierochloe Odorata Extract, Humulus Japonicus Flower / Leaf / Stern Extract, Hydrated Magnesium Silicate, Hydrogenated Myristyl Olive Esters, Hydrolyzed Cera Alba, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid, Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol, Isoquercitrin, Kaempferia Galanga Root Extract, Lagerstroemia Indica Extract, Lauryl Dimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Linseed Acid, Lupinus Luteus Extract, Methylserine, Methylsilanol / Silicate Crosspolymer, Mineral Water, Nylon-66, Oxothiazolidinecarboxylic Acid, Palmitoyl Lysyl Aminovaleroyl Lysine, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10, PEG / PPG-14/7 Dimethyl Ether, PEG-10 Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-2 Stearyl Ether, PEG-20 Stearyl Ether, PEG-24 Cetyl Ether, PEG-24 Cholesteryl Ether, PEG-60 Glyceryl Isostearate, PG-Propyl Methylsilanediol, Phytol, Pisces Collagen, Platanus Occidentalis, Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, Chrysanthenum Parthenium Lauryl Polyglucosides, Citrus Aurantium Duicis Blossoms, Coffea Robusta, Coleus Barbatus Extract, Dimethoxy Di-p-cresol, Disodium NADH, Dodecenes, Echium Lycopsis Oil, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Erythritol, Ethyl Bisiminomethylguaiacol Manganese Chlorides, Ethyl Glucosides, Eucalyptol, Glucosylrutin , Glycyrrhiza Inflata, Guanosine, Heptapeptide-6, Hierochloe Odorata Extract, Humulus Japonicus Flower / Leaf / Star Extract, Hydrated Magnesium Silicate, Hydrogenated Myristyl Olive Esters, Hydrolyzed Cera Alba, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid, Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyranetriol, Isoquercitrin, Kaempferia Galanga Root Extract, Lagerstroemia Indica Extract, Lauryl Dimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Linseed Acid, Lupinus Luteus Extract, Methylserine, Methylsilanol / Silicate Crosspolymer, Mineral Water, Nylon-66, Oxothiazolidinecarboxylic Acid, Palmitoyl Lysyl Aminovaleroyl Lysine, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10, PEG / PPG-14 / 7 Dimethyl Ether, PEG-10 Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-2 Stearyl Ether, PEG-20 Stearyl Ether, PEG-24 Cetyl Ether, PEG-24 Cholesteryl Ether, PEG-60 Glyceryl Isostearate, PG-Propyl Methylsilanediol, Phytol, Pisces Collagen, Platanus Occidentalis, Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylates,
Polycaprolactone, Polyester-5, Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Punica Granatum Fruit Juice, Pyracantha Fortuneana Extract,, Pyrus Malus Water, Selaginella Tamariscina Extract, Shorea Robusta Butter, Sodium Dodecylbenzene Sulfonate, Sodium Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Sodium Mannose Phosphate, Succinoglycan, Sucrose Polycottonseedate, Tetrahydrobisdemethoxycurcumin, Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Polycaprolactone, Polyester-5, Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate, Polyglycerol-6 Polyricinoleate, Punica Granatum Fruit Juice, Pyracantha Fortuneana Extract, Pyrus Malus Water, Selaginella Tamariscina Extract, Shorea Robusta Butter, Sodium Dodecylbenzene Sulfonate, Sodium Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Acryloyl Dimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Sodium Mannose Phosphate, Succinoglycan, Sucrose Polycarbonate Solvent, Tetrahydrobisdemethoxycurcumin, Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane,
Tetrahydrodemethoxycurcumin, Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Thiodipropionic Acid, Thiotaurine, Tocopheryl Glucoside, Tri C14-15 AI ky leitrate, Trilon B., Trioctyldodecyl Citrate, Trioxaundecanedioic Acid und/oder Xymenynic Acid. Tetrahydrodemethoxycurcumin, Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Thiodipropionic Acid, Thiotaurine, Tocopheryl Glucoside, Tri C14-15 Al ky Lead Rate, Trilon B, Trioctyl Dodecyl Citrate, Trioxaundecanedioic Acid and / or Xymenynic Acid.
Bevorzugt handelt es sich bei den erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen um O/W-, W/O-, W/O/W-, O/W/O-Emulsionen und Hydrodispersionen, wobei O auch für Silikonöle stehen kann. Bevorzugt ist die Zubereitung auf Basis einer einer O/W-Emulsion oder The preparations according to the invention are preferably O / W, W / O, W / O / W, O / W / O emulsions and hydrodispersions, where O can also stand for silicone oils. Preferably, the preparation is based on a O / W emulsion or
Hydrodispersion formuliert.  Formulated hydrodispersion.
Als Lipidphase können bevorzugt folgende öle in der erfindungsgemäß bevorzugten Emulsion, insbesondere O/W-Emulsion, eingesetzt werden:  The lipid phase used may preferably be the following oils in the emulsion preferred according to the invention, in particular O / W emulsion:
polare ölkomponenten gewählt aus der Gruppe der Ester aus gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkancarbonsäuren mit einer  polar oil components selected from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a
Kettenlänge von 3 bis 30 C-Atomen und gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 3 bis 30 C-Atomen sowie aus der Gruppe der Ester aus aromatischen Carbonsäuren und gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 3 bis 30 C-Atomen. Solche Esteröle können vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe Phenethylbenzoat, 2- Phenylethylbenzoat, Propylheptyl Caprylate, Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarkosinat, Dibutyladipat, Octylpalmitat, Octylcocoat, Octylisostearat, Octyldodeceylmyristat, Octyldodekanol, Cetea- rylisononanoat, Isopropylmyristat, Isopropylpalmitat, Isopropylstearat, Isopropyloleat, n- Butylstearat, n-Hexyllaurat, n-Decyloleat, Isooctylstearat, Isononylstearat,  Chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can advantageously be selected from the group consisting of phenethyl benzoate, 2-phenylethyl benzoate, propylheptyl caprylate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, dibutyl adipate, octyl palmitate, octyl cocoate, octyl isostearate, octyldodeceyl myristate, octyldodecanol, cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate,
Isononylisononanoat, 2-Ethylhexylpalmitat, 2-Ethylhexyllaurat, 2-Hexyldecylstearat, 2- Octyldodecylpalmitat, Stearylheptanoat, Oleyloleat, Oleylerucat, Erucyloleat, Erucylerucat, Tridecylstearat, Tridecyltrimeliitat, sowie synthetische, halbsynthetische und natürliche Gemische solcher Ester, wie z. B. Jojobaöl. Ferner können vorteilhaft gewählt werden Dialkylether und Dialkylcarbonate, vorteilhaft sind z. B. Dicaprylylether (Cetiol OE) und/oder Isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl palmitate, stearyl heptanoate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, tridecyl stearate, tridecyl trimellitate, as well as synthetic, semisynthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, e.g. B. jojoba oil. Furthermore, dialkyl ethers and dialkyl carbonates may advantageously be selected, and z. B. dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE) and / or
Dicaprylylcarbonat, beispielsweise das unter der Handelsbezeichnung Cetiol CC bei der Fa. Cognis erhältliche. Es ist ferner bevorzugt, das oder die ölkomponenten aus der Gruppe Isoeikosan, Neopentylglykoldiheptanoat, Propylenglykoldicaprylat/dicaprat, Dicaprylyl carbonate, for example that available under the trade name Cetiol CC from Cognis. It is further preferred that the oil component (s) is selected from the group consisting of isoeicosane, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate,
Caprylic/Capric/Diglycerylsuccinat, Butylenglykol Dicaprylat/Dicaprat, C12-13-Alkyllactat, Di- C12-13-Alkyltartrat, Triisostearin, Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylat/Hexacaprat, Caprylic / capric / diglyceryl succinate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, C12-13 alkyl lactate, di-C12-13 alkyl tartrate, triisostearin, dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate / hexacaprate,
Propylenglykolmonoisostearat, Tricaprylin, Dimethylisosorbid zu wählen. Es ist insbesondere vorteilhaft, wenn die ölphase der erfindungsgemäßen Formulierungen einen Gehalt an C12- 15-Alkylbenzoat aufweist oder vollständig aus diesem besteht. Weitere ölkomponenten können sein: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Octyldodecanol, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Propylene glycol monoisostearate, tricaprylin, dimethylisosorbide. It is particularly advantageous if the oil phase of the formulations of the invention has a content of C12-15-alkyl benzoate or consists entirely of this. Other oil components may include: caprylic / capric triglycerides, octyldodecanol, C12-15 alkyl benzoates,
Butylenglycol Dicaprylat/Dicaprat, Dicaprylyl Carbonat, Isopropyl Palmitate, Ethylhexyl Cocoate, Cera Microcristallina + Paraffinum Liquidum, Butyrospermum Parkii, Dicaprylyl Ether, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Simmondsia Chinensis Oil, Tridecyl Stearate, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate/Hexacaprate, Lanolin Alkohol, C12-15- Alkylbenzoat; Butylenglycol Dicaprylat/Dicaprat, Dicaprylyl Carbonat, Isodecyl Butylenglycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Ethylhexyl Cocoate, Cera Microcristallina + Paraffin Liquidum, Butyrospermum Parkii, Dicaprylyl Ether, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Simmondsia Chinensis Oil, Tridecyl Stearate, Tridecyl trimellitate, dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate / hexacaprate, lanolin alcohol, C12-15 alkyl benzoate; Butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isodecyl
Neopentanoate und Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride.  Neopentanoates and Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides.
Ferner können vorteilhaft unpolare ölkomponenten wie zum Beispiel Silikonöle wie  Furthermore, advantageous non-polar oil components such as silicone oils such as
Cyclomethicone, zum Beispiel D4, D5, D6, Dimethicone, Dimethiconecopolyol und desweiteren Kohlenwasserstoff basierende öle wie zum Beispiel Parafinum Liquidum, halogenierte sowie perhalogenierte Kohlenwasserstoffe gewählt werden.  Cyclomethicones, for example D4, D5, D6, Dimethicone, Dimethiconecopolyol and other hydrocarbon based oils such as Parafinum Liquidum, halogenated and perhalogenated hydrocarbons are selected.
Bevorzugte Lipidkomponenten in den erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen sind C 12-15 Alkylbenzoat, Isopropylpalmitat, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride und/oder Octyldodecanol. Preferred lipid components in the preparations according to the invention are C 12-15 alkyl benzoate, isopropyl palmitate, caprylic / capric triglycerides and / or octyldodecanol.
Die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen umfassen keine Parabene, Formalgehydabspalter, organohalogenische Stoffe, Benzoesäure und deren Salze, Formiate und Teebaumöl sowie vorteilhaft auch kein Benzylalkohol und/oder Phenoxyethanol. The preparations according to the invention comprise no parabens, formalin-cleavers, organohalogens, benzoic acid and its salts, formates and tea tree oil, and advantageously also no benzyl alcohol and / or phenoxyethanol.
Diese Substanzen sind allesamt gängige Konservierungsmittel, weisen jedoch auch Nachteile auf. So ist DMDM Hydantoin ein Formaldehydabspalter. Formaldehyd ist wie allgemein bekannt eine giftige Substanz und ihr Gebrauch in Kosmetik nicht unumstritten. Benzylalkohol hat einen charakteristischen Geruch, welche in einer Formulierung mit Parfüm maskiert werden muss. Parfuminhaltstoffe sind leider oft auch im Verdacht reizend oder sensibilisierend zu wirken. Deswegen ist es wünschenswert die Parfumkonzentration möglichst gering zu halten. Phenoxyethanol steht immer wieder im Verdacht Typ IV These substances are all common preservatives, but also have disadvantages. So, DMDM Hydantoin is a formaldehyde releaser. As is generally known, formaldehyde is a toxic substance and its use in cosmetics is not uncontroversial. Benzyl alcohol has a characteristic odor which must be masked in a formulation with perfume. Unfortunately, perfume ingredients are often suspected of irritating or sensitizing. Therefore it is desirable to keep the perfume concentration as low as possible. Phenoxyethanol is repeatedly suspected Type IV
Kontaktallergien auszulösen und wird somit von Konsumenten zunehmend abgelehnt. Organische Halogenide sind vergleichsweise hochreaktive Stoffe und interagieren mit der Zellmembran und werden somit bei den Konsumenten ebenfalls stark abgelehnt. Trigger contact allergies and is thus increasingly rejected by consumers. Organic halides are relatively highly reactive substances and interact with the cell membrane and are thus strongly rejected by consumers.
Teebaumöl ist nicht als Arzneimittel zugelassen und wird als Risikosubstanz für das Auftreten von Kontakt-Dermatitiden gewertet. Tea tree oil is not approved as a drug and is considered a risk substance for the occurrence of contact dermatitis.
Bei der Herstellung der erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen zeigt sich ein weiterer unerwarteter Vorteil bei der Verwendung von Polyglyceryl-10-Stearat. In preparing the formulations of the present invention, another unexpected advantage is seen in the use of polyglyceryl-10-stearate.
Bei der Emulsionsherstellung muss normalerweise eine Wasser- und eine Fettphase aufgeheizt werden, gemischt und diese Mischung anschließend wieder gekühlt werden. Das bedeutet eine mindestens zweimalige Zugabe von Wärmeenergie. Energetisch ist das ungünstig und ebenso problematisch bei ggf. thermisch labilen Wirkstoffen. In emulsion production, usually one water and one fat phase must be heated, mixed and then re-cooled. This means at least two times the addition of heat energy. Energetically, this is unfavorable and just as problematic in possibly thermally labile active ingredients.
Überraschenderweise ist diese zweimalige Erwärmung durch die Verwendung von Surprisingly, this two-fold warming is through the use of
Polyglyceryl-10-Stearat als Emulgator nicht notwendig. Emulsionszubereitungen mit PG-10-Stearat lassen sich im sogenannten cold-cold Verfahren herstellen. Normalerweise schmilzt man die Fettphase auf 80-100°C und heizt parallel die Wasserphase auf 80-100°C auf. Diese beiden heißen Phasen gibt man zusammen und rührt. Anschließend wird homogenisiert. In der Produktion muss dafür häufig gekühlt werden. Polyglyceryl-10-stearate as emulsifier not necessary. Emulsion preparations with PG-10 stearate can be prepared in the cold-cold process. Normally, the fat phase is melted to 80-100 ° C and heats the water phase parallel to 80-100 ° C on. These two hot phases are combined and stirred. Subsequently, it is homogenized. In production, this often has to be cooled.
Dieses Verfahren nennt man hot/hot-Verfahren. Cold/cold-Verfahren heißt also analog, man hat eine Wasserphase bei Raumtemperatur und eine Fettphase bei Raumtemperatur, welche man zusammen gibt und homogenisiert, was energetisch ein großer Vorteil ist.  This process is called hot / hot process. Cold / cold method is thus analogous, you have a water phase at room temperature and a fat phase at room temperature, which gives together and homogenized, which is energetically a big advantage.
Die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen sind daher für die Einarbeitung thermisch labiler Wirkstoffe, wie beispielsweise natürlichen ölen, Wirkstoffe, Vitaminen, Parfüm oder auch einzelnen Parfuminhaltsstoffen bevorzugt.  The preparations according to the invention are therefore preferred for the incorporation of thermally labile active substances, for example natural oils, active substances, vitamins, perfume or else individual perfume ingredients.
Als thermisch labil bezeichnet man Substanzen, die beim Erwärmen über 50°C sich farblich, geruchlich oder in physikalischen Parametern verändern oder gar sich ganz oder teilweise abbauen.  Thermally labile substances are those which, when heated above 50 ° C., change in color, smell or in physical parameters or even degrade completely or partially.
Parfuminhaltsstoffe können daher bevorzugt gewählt werden. Hierzu zählen z.B. (1- oxopropoxy)-,1-(3,3-dimethylcyclohexyl), 1 ,1-Dimethoxy-2,25-trimethyl-4-hexene, Parfum ingredients can therefore be chosen with preference. These include e.g. (1-oxopropoxy), 1- (3,3-dimethylcyclohexyl), 1,1-dimethoxy-2,25-trimethyl-4-hexenes,
1 ,3,4,6,7,8-Hexahydro-4,6,6,7,8,8-hexamethylcyclopenta-gamma-2-benzopyran, 1 ,4- Dioxacyclohexadecane-5,16-dione, 1 ,5,9-Trimethyl-13-oxabicyclo(10.1.0) trideca-4,8-diene, 1 ,6,7,8-Tetrahydro-1 ,4,6,6,8,8-hexamthyl-as-indacen-3<2H>-one, 12-Oxahexadecanolide, 13 Vetiver oil, 1-Phenyl-3-methyl-3-pentanol, 2,4-Dimethyl-3-cyclohexen-1-carboxaaldehyde, 2,6-Dimethyl-7-octen-2-ol, 2,6-Nonadienal, 2-Acetonapthone-1 ,2,3,4,5,6,7,8-octahydro- 2,3,8, 8-tetramethyl-p-t-Butyl-alpha-methyldihydrocinnamic aldehyde, 2-lsobutyl-4-hydroxy-4- methyltetrahydropyran, 2-Methyl-3(4-(2-methylpropyl)phenyl)propanal, 2-Methyl-4-(2,6,6- trimethyl-2(1 )-cyclohexen-1 -yl) butanal, 2-Methyl-4-phenyl-2-butanol Phenylethyl acetate, 2- Methyl-4-phenyl-2-pentanone, 2-Methyl-5-phenylpentan-1-ol, 2-methyl-6-methylene, 2- Methylbutyl acetate, 2-Phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, 2-tert-Pentyl-cyclohexyl acetate, 3(4), 8(9)- Dihydroxymethyl tricyclo(5.2.1.0(2,6)decane, 3-(4-t-Butylphenyl)propanal, 3-(5,5,6- Trimethylbicyclo(2.2.1 )hept-2-yl)cyclohexan-1-ol, 3,7,1 1-Trimethyl-1 ,2, 10,-dodecatrien-3-ol (cis & trans), 3,7-Dimethyl-1 ,3,6-octatriene, 3,7-Dimethyl-1-octanol, 3,7-Dimethyl-2(3),6- nonadienenitrile, 3,7-Dimethyl-6-octen-1-ol, 3,7-Dimethyloctan-3-yl acetate, 3-lsocamphyl cyclohexanol, 3-Methyl-5-phenyl-1 -pentanol, 3-Pentyltetrahydro(2H)pyranyl acetate, 3- Phenyl-1-propanol, 4-(4-Hydroxy-4-methylpentyl)-3-cyclohexene-1 -carboxyaldehyde, 4-(p- Hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanone, 4-Acetyl-6-t-butyl-1 ,1-dimetylindane, 4-Carvomenthenol, 4-t- Butylcyclohexyl acetate, 5-Phenylpentanol, 7-Acetyl-1 ,1 , 3,4,4, 6-hexamethyltetralin, 7-Octen- 2-ol, Abietyl acetate, Acetic acid, Allyl phenoxyacetate, alpha-Amylcinnamaldehyde, alpha- Butylcinnamaldehyde, alpha-Hexylcinnamaldehyde, alpha-lonone, alpha-lsomethylionone, alpha-Methyionantheme, alpha-Methyl-3,4-methylene dioxyhydrocinnamic aldehyde, alpha- Methylbenzyl acetate, alpha-Pinene, alpha-Terpineol, Amyl salicylate, Anisic acid, Anisyl acetate, Anisyl alcohol, Benzaldehyde, Benzyl acetate, Benzyl alcohol, Benzyl benzoate, Benzyl laurate, Benzyl salicylate, Bergamot oil, beta-Caryophyllene, beta-lonone, beta- Pinene, Bois de rose oil, Bornyl acetate, Butylated hydroxytoluene, Camphene, Cedarwood oil, Cedrenol, Cedrenyl acetate, Cedrol, Cedrol methyl ether, Cedryl acetate, Cinnamic alcohol, Cinnamic aldehyde, cis-3-Hexenyl salicylate, Citral, Citronella oil, Citronellal, Citronellyl acetate, Citrus oil distilled, Clove bud oil, Cognac oil, Coumarin, Cyclamen aldehyde, Cyclohexyl salicylate, d-Camphor, Decanal, delta-3-Caren, Diacetin, Diethyl malonate, Diethyl phthalate, Diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, Dihydromyrcenyl acetate, Dihydroterpinyl acetate, Dimethyl benzyl carbinyl acetate, Dimethyl benzyl carbinyl butyrate, Dimethyl phthalate, Diphenyl ether, d-Limonene, Ethyl acetate, Ethyl acetoacetate, Ethyl butyrate, Ethyl maltol, Ethyl vanillin, Ethyl-2methyl-1.3-dioxolane-2-acet.ate, Ethylene brassylate, Ethyllinalool, Ethyllinylyl acetate, Etyhl methylphenylglycidate, Eucalyptol, Eucalyptus oil, Eugenol, Fir needle oil, Formaldehyde cyclododecyl ethyl acetal Myristicin, Galbanum oil, gamma-Decalactone, gamma-Nonalactone, gamma-Terpinene., gamma- Undecalactone, Geranium oil, Geranyl acetate, Glyceryl caprylate, Grapefruit oil, Heliotropin, Hexahydro-4,7-methanoinden-5(6)-yl acetate, Hexyl ace-tate, Hexyl alcohol, Hexyl salicylate, Hexylene glycol, Hydroxycitronellal, Hydroxycitronellol, lonone, Isoamyl salicylate, Isobornyl acetate, Isobornylcyclohexanol, Isobutyl salicylate, Isoeugenol, Isopropyl myristate, Juniper berry oil, Labdanum oil, Lauric aldehy-de, Lauryl alcohol, Lavandin oil, Lavender oil, Lemon oil, Lemon oil terpenes, Lemon terpenes, Lime oil, Linalool, Linalyl acetate, I-Menthol, Majantol, Maltol isobutyrate, Mandarin oil, Menthanyl acetate, Menthol liquid, Menthone, Menthyl acetate, Methyl 2-nonenoate, Methyl abietate, Methyl cedryl ketone, Methyl dihydrojasmonate, Methyl ester of rosin - partially hydrogenated, Methyl-alpha-ionone, Methyl-delta-ionone, Methylpentenolone, Musk ketone, Myrcene, Myrcenyl acetate, Nerol, Neroli bigarade oil, Nerolidol, Neryl acetate, Nopyl acetate, Nutmeg oil, Octanal, Octyl acetate, Octyldodecanol, omega-Pentadecalactone, Orange oil, Orange terpenes, Orange terpenes (natural), o-t-Butylcyclohexyl acetate, Oxacyclohexadecen-2-one, Dipropylene glycol, Patchouli oil 3,7-Dimethyl-2,6-octadien-1-ol, Peppermint oil, Petitgrain oil, Phenethyl alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Phenylacetaldehyde glyceryl acetal, p-Methylanisole, Pulegone, Rhodinol, Rosemary oil, Sabinene, Sandalwood oil, Sclareoate, Spearmint oil, Spike lavender oil, Stearic acid, Terpineol, Terpinyl acetate, Tetrahydrolinalool, 1, 3,4,6,7,8-hexahydro-4,6,6,7,8,8-hexamethylcyclopenta-gamma-2-benzopyran, 1,4-dioxacyclohexadecan-5,16-dione, 1, 5, 9-trimethyl-13-oxabicyclo (10.1.0) trideca-4,8-diene, 1, 6,7,8-tetrahydro-1, 4,6,6,8,8-hexamethyl-as-indacene-3 <2H> -one, 12-oxahexadecanolide, 13 vetiver oil, 1-phenyl-3-methyl-3-pentanol, 2,4-dimethyl-3-cyclohexene-1-carboxaldehyde, 2,6-dimethyl-7-octene-2 -ol, 2,6-nonadienal, 2-acetonaphthone-1, 2,3,4,5,6,7,8-octahydro-2,3,8,8-tetramethyl-pt-butyl-alpha-methyldihydrocinnamic aldehyde, 2-Isobutyl-4-hydroxy-4-methyltetrahydropyran, 2-methyl-3 (4- (2-methylpropyl) phenyl) propanal, 2-methyl-4- (2,6,6-trimethyl-2 (1) -cyclohexene 1 -yl) butanal, 2-methyl-4-phenyl-2-butanol, phenylethyl acetate, 2-methyl-4-phenyl-2-pentanone, 2-methyl-5-phenyl-pentan-1-ol, 2-methyl-6 -methylene, 2-methylbutyl acetate, 2-phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, 2-tert-pentylcyclohexyl acetate, 3 (4), 8 (9) -dihydroxymethyltricyclo (5.2.1.0 (2,6) decane, 3- (4- t-butylphenyl) propanal, 3- (5,5,6-trimethylbicyclo (2.2.1) hept-2-yl) cyclohexan-1-ol, 3,7,1-trimethyl-1,2,10-dodecatrien-3-ol (cis & trans), 3,7-dimethyl-1,3,6 octatrienes, 3,7-dimethyl-1-octanol, 3,7-dimethyl-2 (3), 6-nonadienenitriles, 3,7-dimethyl-6-octen-1-ol, 3,7-dimethyloctane-3 yl acetate, 3-isocamphyl cyclohexanol, 3-methyl-5-phenyl-1-pentanol, 3-pentyltetrahydro (2H) pyranyl acetate, 3-phenyl-1-propanol, 4- (4-hydroxy-4-methylpentyl) -3 -cyclohexenes-1-carboxyaldehydes, 4- (p-hydroxyphenyl) -2-butanones, 4-acetyl-6-t-butyl-1,1-dimethylindanes, 4-carvomenthenol, 4-t-butylcyclohexyl acetate, 5-phenylpentanol, 7-acetyl-1,1,1,4,4,6-hexamethyltetralin, 7-octene-2-ol, abietyl acetate, acetic acid, allyl phenoxyacetate, alpha-amylcinnamaldehyde, alpha-butylcinnamaldehyde, alpha-hexylcinnamaldehyde, alpha-ionone , alpha-isomethylionone, alpha-methyionantheme, alpha-methyl-3,4-methylene dioxyhydrocinnamic aldehyde, alpha Methylbenzylacetate, alpha-pinene, alpha-terpineol, amyl salicylate, anisic acid, anisyl acetate, anisyl alcohol, benzaldehydes, benzyl acetate, benzyl alcohol, benzyl benzoate, benzyl laurate, benzyl salicylate, bergamot oil, beta-caryophyllene, beta-ionone Pinene, Bois de rose oil, Bornyl acetate, Butylated hydroxytoluene, Camphene, Cedarwood oil, Cedrenol, Cedrenyl acetate, Cedrol, Cedrol methyl ether, Cedryl acetate, Cinnamic alcohol, Cinnamic aldehyde, Cis-3-hexenyl salicylate, Citral, Citronella oil, citronellal, citronellyl acetate, citrus oil distilled, clove bud oil, cognac oil, coumarin, cyclamen aldehyde, cyclohexyl salicylate, d-camphor, decanal, delta-3-carene, diacetin, diethyl malonate, diethyl phthalate, diethylene glycol monoethyl ethers, dihydromyrcenyl acetates, dihydrotinyl acetates, dimethylbenzyl carbinyl acetates, dimethyl benzyl carbinyl butyrates, dimethyl phthalates, diphenyl ethers, d-limonene, ethyl acetate, ethyl acetoacetates, ethyl butyrate, ethyl malto l, ethyl vanillin, ethyl-2-methyl-1,3-dioxolane-2-acetate, ethylenea brassylate, ethyllinalool, ethyllinyllyl acetate, ethyl methylphenyl glycidate, eucalyptol, eucalyptus oil, eugenol, fir needle oil, formaldehyde cyclododecyl ethyl acetal myristicin, galbanum oil, gamma-decalactones, gamma-nonalactones, gamma-terpinene., gamma-undecalactones, geranium oil, geranyl acetate, glyceryl caprylate, grapefruit oil, heliotropin, hexahydro-4,7-methanoinden-5 (6) -yl acetate, hexyl acetone. tate, hexyl alcohol, hexyl salicylate, hexylene glycol, hydroxycitronellal, hydroxycitronellol, ionone, isoamyl salicylate, isobornyl acetate, isobornyl cyclohexanol, isobutyl salicylate, isoeugenol, isopropyl myristate, juniper berry oil, labdanum oil, lauric aldehyde, lauryl alcohol, lavandin oil , Lavender oil, lemon oil, lemon terpenes, lemon terpenes, lime oil, linalool, linalyl acetate, l-menthol, majantol, maltol isobutyrate, mandarin oil, menthanyl acetate, menthol liquid, menthone, menthyl acetate, methyl 2 -nonenoate, methyl abietate, methyl cedryl ketone, methyl dihydrojasmonate, methyl ester of rosin - partially hydrogenated, methyl-alpha-ionone, methyl-delta-ionone, methylpentenolone, muscone ketone, myrcene, myrcenyl acetate, nerol, neroli bigarade oil, nerolidol , Neryl acetate, Nopyl acetate, Nutmeg oil, Octanal, Octyl acetate, Octyldodecanol, omega-Pentadecalactone, Orange oil, Orange terpenes, Orange terpenes (natural), ot-butylcyclohexyl acetate, Oxacyclohexadecen-2-one, Dipropylene glycol, Patchouli oil 3 , 7-dimethyl-2,6-octadien-1-ol, peppermint oil, petitgrain oil, phenethyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, phenylacetaldehyde glyceryl acetal, p-methylanisole, pulegone, rhodinol, rosemary oil, Sabinene, Sandalwood oil, Sclareoate, Spearmint oil , Spike lavender oil, stearic acid, terpineol, terpinyl acetate, tetrahydrolinalool,
Tetrahydromyrcenol, Thyme oil, Thymol, trans-Anethole, trans-beta-lonone, Treemoss abs., Triacetin, Trichloromethyl phenyl carbinyl acetate, Tricyclodecenyl Propionate, Triethyl citrate, Undecanal, Vanillin, Ylang ylang oil. Tetrahydromyrcenol, thyme oil, thymol, trans-anetholes, trans -beta-lonones, Treemoss abs., Triacetin, trichloromethylphenyl carbinyl acetate, tricyclodecenyl propionates, triethyl citrate, undecanal, vanillin, ylang ylang oil.
Es ist im Rahmen der Erfindung sinnvoll Wirkstoffe zur positiven Beeinflussung der  It is useful in the context of the invention active ingredients for positively influencing the
Altershaut, die die Entstehung von Falten oder auch bestehenden Falten vermindern, einzusetzen. Als besonders bevorzugte Wirkstoffe gelten daher Biochinone, insbesondere Ubichinon Q10, Isoflavon und Isoflavonoide, Genistein, Arctiin, Cardiolipin, Liponsäure, Anti Freezing Proteine, Hopfen- und Hopfen-Malz-Extrakte, und/oder die Restrukturierung des Bindegewebes fördernde Stoffe, Isoflavonoide sowie Isoflavonoid-haltige Pflanzenextrakte wie z.B. Soja- und Klee-Extrakte, die auch in den erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen und Hautauflagenmatrices sehr gut verwendet werden können. Aging skin that reduces the appearance of wrinkles or even existing wrinkles, use. Particularly preferred active ingredients therefore include biochinones, in particular ubiquinone Q10, isoflavone and isoflavonoids, genistein, arctiin, cardiolipin, lipoic acid, anti-freezing proteins, hop and hops malt extracts, and / or the restructuring of the connective tissue promoting substances, isoflavonoids and isoflavonoid -containing plant extracts such as soy and clover extracts, which can also be used very well in the preparations according to the invention and Hautauflagenmatrices.
Auch zeigte sich, dass sich das erfindungsgemäße Kombinationsprodukt in besonderer Weise eignet, Wirkstoffe zur Unterstützung der Hautfunktionen bei trockener Haut, wie beispielsweise Vitamin C, Biotin, Kreatin, Kreatinin, Propionsäure, Glycerin, Grüntee- Extrakte, white tea - Extrakte oder - Lösungen, zu verwenden.  It has also been found that the combination product according to the invention is particularly suitable as active ingredients for supporting the skin functions in dry skin, such as, for example, vitamin C, biotin, creatine, creatinine, propionic acid, glycerol, green tea extracts, white tea extracts or solutions, to use.
In ähnlicher Weise erwies sich die Einarbeitung von Wirkstoffen zur Linderung bzw. positiven Beeinflussung von irritativen Hautzuständen, sei es bei empfindlicher Haut im allgemeinen oder bei durch Noxen gereizter Haut (UV-Licht, Chemikalien), als vorteilhaft. Hier sind Wirkstoffe zu nennen wie Sericoside, verschiedene Extrakte des Süssholzes, Licochalcone A, Silymarin bzw. Silyphos, Flavonoide, Dexpanthenol, Ethanol, Inhibitoren des  Similarly, the incorporation of drugs to alleviate or positively affect irritative skin conditions, whether sensitive skin in general or noxa-irritated skin (UV light, chemicals), has been found to be beneficial. Here are agents such as sericosides, various extracts of licorice, licochalcone A, silymarin or silyphos, flavonoids, dexpanthenol, ethanol, inhibitors of
Prostaglandinstoffwechsels, insbesondere der Cyclooxygenase, und des Prostaglandin metabolism, in particular cyclooxygenase, and the
Leukotrienstoffwechsels, insbesondere der 5-Lipoxygenase, aber auch des 5-Lipoxygenase Inhibitor Proteins, FLAP. Leukotrienstoffwechsels, in particular the 5-lipoxygenase, but also the 5-lipoxygenase inhibitor protein, FLAP.
Auch erwies sich die Einarbeitung von Modulatoren der Pigmentierung als vorteilhaft. Hier sind Wirkstoffe zu nennen, die die Pigmentierung der Haut vermindern und so zu einer kosmetisch gewünschten Aufhellung der Haut führen und/oder das Auftreten von  The incorporation of modulators of pigmentation also proved to be advantageous. Here are agents that reduce the pigmentation of the skin and thus lead to a cosmetically desired lightening of the skin and / or the occurrence of
Altersflecken reduzieren und/oder bestehende Altersflecken aufhellen, wie Tyrosinsulfat, Vitamin C, Liponsäure und Liponamid, verschiedene Extrakte des Süssholzes, Kojisäure, Hydrochinon, Arbutin, Fruchtsäuren, insbesondere Alpha-Hydroxy-Säuren (AHAs), Bearberry (Uvae ursi), Ursolsäure, Ascorbinsäure, Grüntee-Extrakte, Aminoguanidin und/oder Reduce age spots and / or lighten existing age spots, such as tyrosine sulfate, vitamin C, lipoic acid and liponamide, various extracts of licorice, kojic acid, hydroquinone, arbutin, fruit acids, especially alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), bearberry (uvae ursi), ursolic acid, Ascorbic acid, green tea extracts, aminoguanidine and / or
Pyridoxamin. Pyridoxamine.
In gleicher Weise erwiesen sich Wirkstoffe, die eine verstärkte/schnellere Bräunung der Haut herbeiführen (Advanced Glycation Endproducts (AGE), Lipofuscine, Nukleinsäure- Oligonukleotide, Purine und Pyrimidine, NO-freisetzende Substanzen, sei es mit oder ohne Einfluss von UV-Licht, als geeignete Zusatzwirkstoffe in die erfindungsgemäßen  In the same way, active ingredients that promote enhanced / faster tanning of the skin (Advanced Glycation End Products (AGE), lipofuscins, nucleic acid oligonucleotides, purines and pyrimidines, NO-releasing substances, with or without the influence of UV light, have proven to be effective). as suitable additional active ingredients in the inventive
Zubereitungen. Preparations.
Für den Einsatz ebenfalls geeignete Wirkstoffe sind beispielsweise Folsäure, Phytoen, Harnstoff, D-Biotin, Coenzym Q10, Flavonglycoside wie z.B. α-Glucosylrutin, Carnitin,  For use also suitable active ingredients are, for example, folic acid, phytoene, urea, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, flavone glycosides such. α-glucosylrutin, carnitine,
Polydocanol, natürliche und synthetische Isoflavonoide insbesondere Genistein, Flavonoide, Carotinoide, Kreatin, Kreatinin, Taurin, Ascorbinsäure sowie deren Derivate, Sauerstoff, Tocopherol sowie dessen Ester, Dihydroxyaceton, 8-Hexadecen-1 ,16-dicarbonsäure, langkettige Hyaluronsäuren (d.h. mit einem mittleren Molekulargewicht von 1 Million bis 3 Million Dalton) und kurzkettige Hyaluronsäuren (d.h. mit einem mittleren Molekulargewicht von 5000 bis 1 Million Dalton), Licochalcon A und deren Gemische zu nennen. Derartige Inhaltsstoffe können bevorzugt jeweils zu einem Anteil von 0,01 bis 30 Gew.%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung, in dieser enthalten sein. Polydocanol, natural and synthetic isoflavonoids, in particular genistein, flavonoids, carotenoids, creatine, creatinine, taurine, ascorbic acid and its derivatives, oxygen, tocopherol and its esters, dihydroxyacetone, 8-hexadecene-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid, long-chain hyaluronic acids (ie Molecular weight of 1 million to 3 Million daltons) and short-chain hyaluronic acids (ie with an average molecular weight of 5000 to 1 million daltons), licochalcone A and mixtures thereof. Such ingredients may preferably each be contained in a proportion of 0.01 to 30 wt.%, Based on the total weight of the preparation in this.
Erfindungsgemäße Formulierungen, welche ein oder mehrere Antifaltenwirkstoffe wie Flavon-glycoside insbesondere α-Glycosyl rutin, Coenzym Q10, Retinol und dessen Ester, Vitamin E und dessen Derivate sowie andere dem Fachmann bekannte Antifaltenwirkstoffe enthalten, eignen sich insbesondere zum Schutz vor ästhetisch unattraktiven  Formulations according to the invention which contain one or more anti-wrinkle active ingredients such as flavone glycosides, in particular α-glycosyl rutin, coenzyme Q10, retinol and its esters, vitamin E and its derivatives and other anti-wrinkle agents known to the skilled person, are particularly suitable for protection against aesthetically unattractive
Hautveränderungen wie sie beispielsweise bei ermüdeter Haut oder der Hautalterung auftreten. Zu diesen Veränderungen gehören z.B. Trockenheit, Rauhigkeit und Ausbildung von Trocken heitsfältchen, Juckreiz, verminderte Rückfettung vor allem nach dem Waschen, sichtbare Gefäßerweiterungen wie Tele-angiektasien oder Cuperosis, Schlaffheit und Ausbildung von Falten und Fältchen, lokale Hyper-, Hypo- und Fehlpigmentierungen wie Altersflecken, vergrößerte Anfälligkeit gegenüber mechanischem Stress wie Rissigkeit und andere dem Fachmann bekannte Veränderungen. Weiterhin vorteilhaft eignen sich die erfindungsgemäßen Emulsionen gegen das Erscheinungsbild der trockenen bzw. rauhen Haut.  Skin changes, such as those that occur with tired skin or skin aging. These changes include e.g. Dryness, roughness and formation of dryness wrinkles, itching, reduced refatting especially after washing, visible vascular dilations such as tele-angiectasias or cuperosis, slackness and development of wrinkles and wrinkles, local hyper-, hypo- and Fehlpigmentierungen age spots, increased susceptibility to mechanical stress such as cracking and other changes known to those skilled in the art. Further advantageous emulsions of the invention are suitable for the appearance of dry or rough skin.
Nachfolgende Beispiele illustrieren die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen. Die  The following examples illustrate the preparations according to the invention. The
angegebenen Anteile sind Gewichtsanteile, jeweils bezogen auf die Gesamtmasse der Zubereitung. given proportions are by weight, in each case based on the total mass of the preparation.
BeispieleO/W-Lotion BeispieleO / W Lotion
1 2 3 4 5  1 2 3 4 5
Polyglyceryl-10-Stearat 1 ,0 1 ,5 1 ,75 0,2 0,5 Polyglyceryl-10-stearate 1, 0 1, 5 1, 75 0.2 0.5
Glycerylstearat 0,2 - 2 - 3 Glyceryl stearate 0.2 - 2 - 3
Cetearylakohol - 2 1 3 0,5 Cetearyl alcohol - 2 1 3 0,5
Cyclomethicone 5 10 - - 1 Cyclomethicone 5 10 - - 1
C 12-15 Alkylbenzoat 1 2 - - 2  C 12-15 alkyl benzoate 1 2 - - 2
Isopropylpalmitat 2 1 - - - Isopropyl palmitate 2 1 - - -
Ethanol 15 — 3,0 1 — Ethanol 15 - 3.0 1 -
Caprylic/Capric Triglycerid — — 1 ,0 — 10 Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride - - 1, 0 - 10
Carbomer — 0,3 0,2 — 0,1Carbomer - 0.3 0.2 - 0.1
Octocrylen 2 - - 5 2 Octocrylene 2 - - 5 2
Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethan 2 - - 2 2  Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 2 - - 2 2
Phenylbenzimidazolsulfonsäure 1 - - 4 1  Phenylbenzimidazole sulphonic acid 1 - - 4 1
Ethylhexylsalicylat 4 - - - 4  Ethylhexyl salicylate 4 - - - 4
Titandioxid - - 4 - 1  Titanium Dioxide - - 4 - 1
Tapioka-Stärke 2 - 2 - - Acrylates/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate 0,2 1 0,6 Tapioca starch 2 - 2 - - Acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylates 0.2 1 0.6
Crosspolymer  Crosspolymer
Sheabutter - 3 3 1 - Shea Butter - 3 3 1 -
EDTA 1 1 - 1 -EDTA 1 1 - 1 -
1 ,2 Pentandiol - - 3 - -1, 2 pentanediol - - 3 - -
Glycerin 5 10 7,5 15 7,5Glycerol 5 10 7.5 15 7.5
Parfüm q.s, q,s, q.s, q.s, q.s,Perfume q.s, q, s, q.s, q.s, q.s,
Ethylhexylglycerin - 1 0,5 0,25 —Ethylhexylglycerol - 1 0.5 0.25 -
Wasser ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100
O/W-Creme O / W cream
6 7 8 9 10 6 7 8 9 10
Polyglyceryl-10-Stearat 1 ,0 1 ,5 1 ,75 0,2 0,5Polyglyceryl-10-stearate 1, 0 1, 5 1, 75 0.2 0.5
Glycerylstearat - 1 - - -Glyceryl stearate - 1 - - -
Cetearylakohol 1 - - - -Cetearyl alcohol 1 - - - -
Cyclomethicone 20 - 5 - 10Cyclomethicones 20 - 5 - 10
C 12-15 Alkylbenzoat - 6 1 4 2C 12-15 alkyl benzoate - 6 1 4 2
Isopropylpalmitat 2 - 15 2 -Isopropyl palmitate 2 - 15 2 -
Ethanol - 5 - 20 —Ethanol - 5 - 20 -
Caprylic/Capric Triglycerid 2 - 1 - 1Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 2 - 1 - 1
Carbomer — 0,3 0,2 — 0,1Carbomer - 0.3 0.2 - 0.1
Octocrylen 2 - - 1 -Octocrylene 2 - - 1 -
Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethan 1 - - 1 -Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 1 - - 1 -
Phenylbenzimidazolsulfonsäure 1 - - 1 -Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid 1 - - 1 -
Ethylhexylsalicylat 4 - - 7 -Ethylhexyl salicylate 4 - - 7 -
Titandioxid - - 1 - -Titanium Dioxide - - 1 - -
Tapioka-Stärke 10 5 Tapioca starch 10 5
Acrylates/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate 0,5 0,2 Crosspolymer  Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylates 0.5 0.2 Crosspolymer
Sheabutter - 2 - 1 - Shea butter - 2 - 1 -
EDTA - 1 - 1 -EDTA - 1 - 1 -
1 ,2 Pentandiol 0,5 - 2 - -1, 2 pentanediol 0.5 - 2 - -
Glycerin 5 10 7,5 15 7,5Glycerol 5 10 7.5 15 7.5
Parfüm q,s, q.s, q.s, q.s, q.s,Perfume q, s, q.s, q.s, q.s, q.s,
Ethylhexylglycerin - -- 0,5 1 —Ethylhexylglycerol - - 0.5 1 -
Wasser ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Die Zubereitungen 2, 4, 6, 8, 9 und 10 umfassen als Emulgator erfindungsgemäß nur Polyglycerol-10-Stearat und sind dennoch äußerst stabil. Water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 The preparations 2, 4, 6, 8, 9 and 10 comprise as emulsifier according to the invention only polyglycerol-10-stearate and are still extremely stable.
W/S-Emulsionen W / S emulsions
Si/ W-Emulsion 16 17 18 19 20Si / W emulsion 16 17 18 19 20
Bis-PEG/PPG-16/16 PEG/PPG16/16 1 ,0 2,0 8,0 3,0 5,0 Dimethicone, Caprylic/Caprictriglycerid Bis-PEG / PPG-16/16 PEG / PPG16 / 16 1, 0 2.0 8.0 3.0 5.0 Dimethicone, caprylic / capric triglyceride
Cyclisches Silikonöl (Cyclomethicon) 12,5 15 25,0 10,0 7.5 Cyclic silicone oil (cyclomethicone) 12.5 15 25.0 10.0 7.5
PG-10-Stearat 0,1 1 ,0 0,15 0,25 0,5 Lineares Silikonöi (Dimethicon) 5,0 15,0 5,0 12,0 15,0PG-10 stearate 0.1 1, 0.15 0.25 0.5 Linear silicone oil (dimethicone) 5.0 15.0 5.0 12.0 15.0
MT Propylsilsesquioxan Wachsharz 0,5 2,0 25,5 mit M= Si (C 30+)(CH3)2 MT Propylsilsesquioxane wax resin 0.5 2.0 25.5 with M = Si (C 30 +) (CH 3 ) 2
Octyldodecanol 0,5 1 ,0 0,75 3,0 0,25 Octyldodecanol 0.5 1, 0.75 3.0 0.25
Glycerin 5,0 7,5 10,0 3,0 1 ,0Glycerin 5.0 7.5 10.0 3.0 1, 0
Panthenol 0,5 1 ,0 0,75 0,25 0,1Panthenol 0,5 1, 0 0,75 0,25 0,1
Parfüm q.s, q.s, q.s, q.s, q,s,Perfume q.s, q.s, q.s, q.s, q, s,
Methylparaben 0,4 — — — —Methylparaben 0.4 - - - -
Propylparaben 0,3 — — — —Propylparaben 0.3 - - - -
Ethyllauoylarginate 20% in Glycerin 1 ,8 1 ,8 1 ,8 1 ,8Ethyllauroylarginate 20% in glycerol 1, 8 1, 8 1, 8 1, 8
Phenethylethanol 0,5 Phenethylethanol 0.5
Phenoxyethanol 0,5 0,5 Phenoxyethanol 0.5 0.5
Caprylyl Glycol 0,5 0,5 Caprylyl glycol 0.5 0.5
Benzylalkohol 0,5  Benzyl alcohol 0.5
Piroctone Olamine 0,05 Piroctone olamine 0.05
Ethylhexylcinnamat — — — — 5Ethylhexyl cinnamate - - - - 5
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxy- 1 phenyltriazin Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxy-1-phenyltriazine
Modifizierte Stärke -- 2,5 — 0, 15 - Modified Strength - 2.5 - 0.15 -
Wasser ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100
O/W-Lotion O / W Lotion
21 22  21 22
Polyglyceryl-10-Stearat 5,75 3,0  Polyglyceryl-10-stearate 5.75 3.0
Glycerylstearat 0,2 - Glyceryl Stearate 0.2 -
Cetearylakohol - 2 Cetearyl alcohol - 2
Cyclomethicone 5 10  Cyclomethicone 5 10
C 12-15 Alkylbenzoat 1 2  C 12-15 alkyl benzoate 1 2
Isopropylpalmitat 2 1  Isopropyl palmitate 2 1
Ethanol 15 —  Ethanol 15 -
Caprylic/Capric Triglycerid — —  Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride - -
Carbomer — 0,3  Carbomer - 0.3
Octocrylen 2 - Octocrylene 2 -
Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethan 2 - Phenylbenzimidazolsulfonsäure 1 -Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 2 - Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid 1 -
Ethylhexylsalicylat 4 -Ethylhexyl salicylate 4 -
Titandioxid - -Titanium dioxide - -
Tapioka-Stärke 2 -Tapioca starch 2 -
Acrylates/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate 0,2 Acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylates 0.2
Crosspolymer  Crosspolymer
Sheabutter - 3  Shea Butter - 3
EDTA 1 1  EDTA 1 1
1 ,2 Pentandiol - - 1, 2 pentanediol - -
Glycerin 5 10 Glycerol 5 10
Parfüm q.s, q.s,  Perfume q.s, q.s,
Ethylhexylglycerin - 1  Ethylhexylglycerol - 1
Wasser ad 100 ad 100  Water ad 100 ad 100
Färbung (40°C) leicht keine  Staining (40 ° C) slightly none
Stabilität (6 Monate bei Raumtemperatur) + +  Stability (6 months at room temperature) + +
Es zeigt sich, dass insbesondere Zubereitungen mit einem Anteil von weniger als 3 Gew.% PG-10-Stearat, insbesondere im Bereich von 0,1 bis 2,8 Gew.%, zu stabilen und ästhetisch akzeptablen Zubereitungen führen.  It turns out that in particular preparations with a content of less than 3% by weight of PG-10 stearate, in particular in the range of 0.1 to 2.8% by weight, lead to stable and aesthetically acceptable preparations.
W/O-Emulsionen 23 24 25 26 27 W / O emulsions 23 24 25 26 27
Triglycerindiisostearat 1 ,0 0,5 0,25 2,0 3,0 Triglycerol diisostearate 1, 0 0.5 0.25 2.0 3.0
Diglycerindipolyhydroxystearat 1 ,0 1 ,5 1 ,75 3,0 2,0Diglycerol dipolyhydroxystearate 1, 0 1, 5 1, 75 3.0 2.0
Polyglyceryl 10 Stearat 0,2 1 ,0 0,5 0,1 0,75Polyglyceryl 10 Stearate 0.2 1, 0 0.5 0.1 0.75
Paraffinöl 12,5 — 8,0 5,0 11 ,5Paraffin oil 12.5 - 8.0 5.0 11, 5
Vaseline 8,0 — 5,0 12,0 2,5Vaseline 8.0 - 5.0 12.0 2.5
Hydrierte Kokosglyceride 2,0 1 ,0 2,5 5,0 0,25Hydrogenated coconut glycerides 2.0 1, 0 2.5 5.0 0.25
Decyloleat 0,5 0,75 — 2,0 0,25Decyl oleate 0.5 0.75 - 2.0 0.25
Octyldodecanol — 1 ,0 0,75 3,0 0,25Octyldodecanol - 1.07 0.75 3.0 0.25
Aluminiumstearat 0,4 0,3 0,6 — 1.0Aluminum stearate 0.4 0.3 0.6 - 1.0
Dicaprylylcarbonat 0,1 0,05 0,15 1 ,0 — Dicaprylyl carbonate 0.1 0.05 0.15 1, 0 -
Hydriertes Rizinusöl — 0,75 1 ,0 2,5 5,0 Hydrogenated Castor Oil - 0.75 1, 0 2.5 5.0
MT Propylsilsesquioxan Wachsharz — — 1 ,5 MT Propylsilsesquioxane wax resin - - 1, 5
mit M= Si (C 30+)(CH3)2 with M = Si (C 30 +) (CH 3 ) 2
Magnesiumsulfat 0,5 0,6 0,5 0,7 1 ,0 Glycerin 3,0 5,0 10,0 15,0 1 ,5Magnesium sulfate 0.5 0.6 0.5 0.7 1, 0 Glycerine 3.0 5.0 10.0 15.0 1, 5
Zitronensäure 0,2 0,1 0,2 0,3 1 ,0Citric acid 0.2 0.1 0.2 0.3 1, 0
Natriumeitrat 0,2 0.05 0.4 0.3 2,0Sodium citrate 0.2 0.05 0.4 0.3 2.0
Parfüm 0,5 0,3 0,25 0,7 0,1 ,Perfume 0.5 0.3 0.25 0.7 0.1,
Ethanol 2,0 — 5,0 — —Ethanol 2.0 - 5.0 - -
Capryl-/Caprinsäuretriglycerid 2,0 2,5 3,0 5,0 —Caprylic / Capric Acid Triglyceride 2.0 2.5 3.0 5.0 -
Kaliumsorbat — 0,15 0,05 — 0,4Potassium sorbate - 0.15 0.05 - 0.4
Pirocone Olamine 0,05 — — — —Pirocone Olamine 0.05 - - - -
Benzylalkohol 0,3 0,4 0,25 0,15 —Benzyl alcohol 0.3 0.4 0.25 0.15 -
Methylisothiazolinone — — — 0,05 —Methylisothiazolinone - - - 0.05 -
Wasser ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100
W/O-Emulsionen 28 29 30 31 32W / O emulsions 28 29 30 31 32
Polyglyceryl 10 Stearat 0,5 0,2 0,25 0,3 3,0Polyglyceryl 10 stearate 0.5 0.2 0.25 0.3 3.0
Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearat 2 2,2 2 2,5 3Polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate 2 2,2 2 2,5 3
Lanolin Alcohol — 1 ,5 1 ,75 3,0 -Lanolin Alcohol - 1, 5 1, 75 3.0 -
Paraffinöl 8 — 8,0 5,0 10,5Paraffin oil 8 - 8.0 5.0 10.5
Vaseline -- 6,0 5,0 12,0 —Vaseline - 6.0 5.0 12.0 -
Hydrierte Kokosglyceride 2,0 1 ,0 2,5 5,0 —Hydrogenated Coconut Glycerides 2.0 1, 0 2.5 5.0 -
Hydriertes Polyisobuten 0,5 0,75 1 ,0 2,0 —Hydrogenated polyisobutene 0.5 0.75 1, 0 2.0 -
Octyldodecanol — 1 ,0 — 3,0 —Octyldodecanol - 1, 0 - 3.0 -
Aluminiumstearat 0,4 0,3 0,6 1 ,0 0,05Aluminum stearate 0.4 0.3 0.6 1, 0.05
Dicaprylylcarbonat 0,1 0,05 0,15 0,5 4Dicaprylyl carbonate 0.1 0.05 0.15 0.5 4
Hydriertes Rizinusöl — 0,75 1 ,0 2,5 — Hydrogenated castor oil - 0.75 1, 0 2.5 -
Microcrystalline Cellulose — 1 ,0 0,75 0,25 —  Microcrystalline cellulose - 1, 0 0.75 0.25 -
Magnesiumsulfat 0,2 0,5 0,5 0,3 0,6 Magnesium sulfate 0.2 0.5 0.5 0.3 0.6
Glycerin 3,0 5,0 10,0 15,0 1 ,5Glycerine 3.0 5.0 10.0 15.0 1, 5
Zitronensäure 0,2 0,1 0,2 0,3 1 ,0Citric acid 0.2 0.1 0.2 0.3 1, 0
Parfüm 0,5 0,25 0,7 0,1 0,0Perfume 0.5 0.25 0.7 0.1 0.0
1 ,3 Butylenglykol 2,0 — 5,0 — — 1, 3 butylene glycol 2.0 - 5.0 - -
Lineares Silikon 2 5 — — 4 Natrium Stärke Octenylsuccinat — 1 2 0,5 —Linear silicone 2 5 - - 4 Sodium starch octenylsuccinate - 1 2 0,5 -
Titandioxid 5 — — — 3Titanium dioxide 5 - - - 3
Polysilicon-15 — 4 3 — —Polysilicon-15 - 4 3 - -
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethan — 2 — — 4Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane - 2 - - 4
Octocrylen — 4 — — 9Octocrylene - 4 - - 9
Ethylhexylcinnamat 3 — — — —Ethylhexyl cinnamate 3 - - - -
MT Propylsilsesquioxan Wachsharz 4 — 3 2 — mit M= Si (C 30+)(CH3)2 MT Propylsilsesquioxane wax resin 4 - 3 2 - with M = Si (C 30 +) (CH 3 ) 2
Kaliumsorbat 0,3 0,4 — — —0,25 Potassium sorbate 0.3 0.4 - - 0.25
Kaliumbenzoate 0,3 0,4 0,15Potassium benzoate 0.3 0.4 0.15
Talkum — — 0,05 — 0,1Talc - - 0.05 - 0.1
Hectorite 0,5 Hectorite 0.5
Wasser ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100  Water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100
INCI 33 34 35 36 37 38INCI 33 34 35 36 37 38
Cetearyl Alcohol 3,50 0,00 0,9 0,00 0,00 0,75Cetearyl Alcohol 3.50 0.00 0.9 0.00 0.00 0.75
Myristyl Alcohol 0,00 0,5 0,00 0,00 0,00 0,00Myristyl alcohol 0.00 0.5 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00
Behenylalcohol 0,00 0,00 0,00 0,75 0,00 0,00Behenyl alcohol 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.75 0.00 0.00
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 2,50 0,00 2,50 0,00 0,00 0,00Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 2.50 0.00 2.50 0.00 0.00 0.00
Isopropyl Palmitate 2,50 0,00 2,50 0,00 0,00 0,00Isopropyl Palmitate 2.50 0.00 2.50 0.00 0.00 0.00
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 2,50 0,00 3,00 0,00 0,00 0,00C12-15 alkyl benzoate 2.50 0.00 3.00 0.00 0.00 0.00
Hectorite 0,5 Hectorite 0.5
Hydrogenated Coco- Glycerides 0,00 1 ,00 0,00 1 ,00 1 ,00 1 ,00 Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides 0,00 1, 00 0,00 1, 00 1, 00 1, 00
Stearyl Alcohol 0,00 0,00 0,00 0,00 0,50 0,50Stearyl alcohol 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.50 0.50
Myristyl Myristate 0,00 0,00 0,00 0,00 1 ,00 2,00Myristyl myristate 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 1.00 2.00
Polyglyceryl 10 Stearate 0,30 0,30 2,00 1 ,00 4,00 1 ,50Polyglyceryl 10 Stearates 0.30 0.30 2.00 1, 00 4.00 1, 50
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate 2,00 0,00 0,00 0,50 0,00 0,30Sodium stearoyl glutamate 2.00 0.00 0.00 0.50 0.00 0.30
Glyceryl Stearate 0,00 2,00 0,50 0,00 0,00 0,00Glyceryl Stearate 0.00 2.00 0.50 0.00 0.00 0.00
Tapioca Starch + Aqua 0,00 0,10 0,00 1 ,00 0,00 0,00Tapioca Starch + Aqua 0,00 0,10 0,00 1,00 0,00 0,00
VP/Hexadecene Copolymer 0,00 0,50 0,00 0,00 0,50 0,50VP / hexadecene copolymer 0.00 0.50 0.00 0.00 0.50 0.50
Parfüm 0,60 0,40 0,20 0,40 0,40 0,40Perfume 0.60 0.40 0.20 0.40 0.40 0.40
Glycerin 9,00 4,50 9,00 1 ,00 4,50 5,00Glycerine 9,00 4,50 9,00 1, 00 4,50 5,00
Sodium Hydroxide aq 45% 0,56 0,05 0,56 0,35 0,05 0,40Sodium Hydroxide aq 45% 0.56 0.05 0.56 0.35 0.05 0.40
Methylisothiazolinone 0,00 0,00 0,05 0,00 0,04 0,04 Phenoxyethanol 0,00 0,00 0,60 0,60 0,60 0,60Methylisothiazolinone 0.00 0.00 0.05 0.00 0.04 0.04 Phenoxyethanol 0.00 0.00 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.60
Methylparaben 0,00 0,00 0,00 0,30 0,00 0,00Methylparaben 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.30 0.00 0.00
Kaliumsorbate 0,4 0,00 0,00 0,00 0,00 0,00Potassium sorbates 0.4 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00
Kaliumbenzoate 0,00 0,4 0,00 0,00 0,00 0,00Potassium benzoate 0.00 0.4 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00
Carbomer 0,15 0,00 0,15 0,00 0,00 0,00Carbomer 0.15 0.00 0.15 0.00 0.00 0.00
Acrylates/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl
Acrylate Crosspolymer 0,15 0,20 0,15 0,00 0,10 0,10Acrylates Crosspolymer 0.15 0.20 0.15 0.00 0.10 0.10
Xanthan Gum 0,00 0,40 0,00 0,40 0,60 0,40Xanthan gum 0.00 0.40 0.00 0.40 0.60 0.40
Ammonium ammonium
AcryloyldimethyltaurateA P  Acryloyldimethyltaurate A P
Copolymer 0,00 0,00 0,00 0,10 0,00 0,00Copolymer 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.10 0.00 0.00
Aqua ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100Aqua ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100
Alcohol Denat. 3,00 4,00 3,00 8,00 0,00 0,00Alcohol Denat. 3.00 4.00 3.00 8.00 0.00 0.00
Aqua + Trisodium EDTA 1 ,00 0,50 1 ,00 1 ,00 0,50 0,50Aqua + Trisodium EDTA 1, 00 0.50 1, 00 1, 00 0.50 0.50
Octocrylene 2,00 9,00 2,00 9,00 9,00 7,00Octocrylene 2.00 9.00 2.00 9.00 9.00 7.00
Butyl butyl
Methoxydibenzoylmethane 2,00 4,50 2,00 3,50 3,50 4,50 Methoxydibenzoylmethane 2.00 4.50 2.00 3.50 3.50 4.50
Phenylbenzimidazole Phenylbenzimidazolesulphonic
Sulfonic Acid 2,50 0,00 2,25 0,00 0,00 2,00Sulfonic Acid 2.50 0.00 2.25 0.00 0.00 2.00
Homosalate 0,00 9,00 0,00 9,00 9,00 8,00Homosalates 0.00 9.00 0.00 9.00 9.00 8.00
Ethylhexyl Salicylate 0,00 4,50 0,00 4,50 4,50 4,50Ethylhexyl salicylates 0.00 4.50 0.00 4.50 4.50 4.50
Titanium Dioxide + Titanium Dioxide +
Trimethoxycaprylylsilane 0,00 2,00 0,00 2,00 2,00 0,00Trimethoxycaprylylsilane 0,00 2,00 0,00 2,00 2,00 0,00
Ethylhexylmethoxycrylen 6 9 Ethylhexylmethoxyacrylene 6 9
Diethylhexyl 2,6 Naphthalate 6 9  Diethylhexyl 2,6 naphthalates 6 9

Claims

Patentansprüche claims
1. Kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitung umfassend weniger als 6 Gew.% 1. Cosmetic or dermatological preparation comprising less than 6% by weight
Polyglyceryl-10-Stearat und weniger als 0,01 Gew.% ethoxilierte Emulatoren, bezogen auf die Gesamtmasse der Zubereitung, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Zubereitung keine Lecithine enthält und frei von Parabenen, Formaldehydabspaltern, organischen Halogeniden, Benzoesäure und ihren Salzen, Formiaten und Teebaumöl ist und 07W- Emulsionszubereitungen 1 , 3, 4 und 5 bestehend aus  Polyglyceryl-10-stearate and less than 0.01 wt.% Of ethoxylated emulsifiers, based on the total mass of the preparation, characterized in that the preparation contains no lecithins and free of parabens, Formaldehydabspaltern, organic halides, benzoic acid and its salts, formates and Tea tree oil is and 07W emulsion preparations 1, 3, 4 and 5 consisting of
BERICHTIGTES BLATT (REGEL 91) ADJUSTED SHEET (RULE 91)
ISA/EP Trinatrium EDTA 0 1 1ISA / EP Trisodium EDTA 0 1 1
Ethylhexylmethoxycinnamat ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate
0 0 2 0 0 0 2 0
Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethan 0 0 0 2Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 0 0 0 2
Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonsäure, Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonsäure,
Natrium-Salz 0 0 0 2 Sodium salt 0 0 0 2
Ethylhexylsalicylat 0 0 0 2Ethylhexyl salicylate 0 0 0 2
Titandioxid, silikongecoated Titanium dioxide, silicone-coated
0 0 0,3600 0 0 0 0.3600 0
Octocrylen 0 0 0 2Octocrylene 0 0 0 2
Parfüm 0,10 0,35 0 0,20Perfume 0.10 0.35 0 0.20
Wasser ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 sowie O/W-Emulsionszubereitungen 46, 48, 49 und 50 bestehend aus Water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 and O / W emulsion preparations 46, 48, 49 and 50 consisting of
BERICHTIGTES BLATT (REGEL 91) ADJUSTED SHEET (RULE 91)
ISA/EP Natronlauge 45%ig 0,35 0,01 0,25 1 ISA / EP Sodium hydroxide 45% 0.35 0.01 0.25 1
Polyglyceryl-10 yristat 0 0 0 0  Polyglyceryl-10-yristate 0 0 0 0
Polyglyceryl-10 Stearat 0,7 1 ,8 1 1  Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate 0.7 1, 8 1 1
Polyacrylsäure, Na-Salz 0,5 0,02 0 0  Polyacrylic acid, Na salt 0.5 0.02 0 0
Acrylic AcidA/P Crosspolymer 0 0 0,5 0,75  Acrylic AcidA / P Crosspolymer 0 0 0.5 0.75
Trinatrium EDTA 0 1 1  Trisodium EDTA 0 1 1
Ethylhexylmethoxycinnamat  ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate
0 0 2 0  0 0 2 0
Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethan 0 0 0 2  Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 0 0 0 2
Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonsäure  Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonsäure
0 0 0 2  0 0 0 2
Ethylhexylsalicylat 0 0 0 2  Ethylhexyl salicylate 0 0 0 2
Titandioxid+  titanium dioxide +
Trimethoxycaprylylsilan 0 0 0,3600 0  Trimethoxycaprylylsilane 0 0 0.3600 0
Octocrylen 0 0 0 2  Octocrylene 0 0 0 2
Parfüm 0,10 0,35 0 0,20  Perfume 0.10 0.35 0 0.20
Wasser ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ausgenommen sind, wobei die Zahlenwerte Gewichtsanteile bezogen auf die  Water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 are excluded, where the numerical values by weight based on the
Gesamtmasse der Zubereitungen darstellen.  Represent total mass of the preparations.
2. Zubereitung nach Anspruch 1 umfassend 0,1 bis 2,8 Gew. % Polyglyceryl-10-Stearat, bezogen auf die Gesamtmasse der Zubereitung. 2. Preparation according to claim 1 comprising 0.1 to 2.8 wt.% Polyglyceryl-10-stearate, based on the total mass of the preparation.
3. Zubereitung nach einem der vorstehenden Ansprüchen umfassend neben Polyglyceryl-10- Stearat keine weiteren Emulgatoren. 3. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, in addition to polyglyceryl-10-stearate no further emulsifiers.
4. Zubereitung nach Anspruch 1 oder 2 umfassend neben Polyglyceryl-10-Stearat ein oder mehrere Emulgatoren, die bei 25°C fest, pastös oder flüssig und nicht ethoxiliert sind. 4. Preparation according to claim 1 or 2 comprising in addition to polyglyceryl-10-stearate one or more emulsifiers which are solid, pasty or liquid and not ethoxylated at 25 ° C.
5. Zubereitung nach Anspruch 4 umfassend als zusätzlichen Emulgator Glycerylstearat. 5. A preparation according to claim 4 comprising as additional emulsifier glyceryl stearate.
6. Zubereitung nach einem der vorstehenden Ansprüche als O/W-Emulsion. 6. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims as O / W emulsion.
7. Zubereitung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 5 als Hydrodispersion. 7. Preparation according to one of claims 1 to 5 as hydrodispersion.
8. Zubereitung nach einem der vorstehenden Ansprüche umfassend weniger als 1 Gew.% Fettalkohole, bezogen auf die Gesamtmasse der Zubereitung. 8. A preparation according to any one of the preceding claims comprising less than 1 wt.% Fatty alcohols, based on the total mass of the preparation.
BERICHTIGTES BLATT (REGEL 91)  ADJUSTED SHEET (RULE 91)
ISA/EP ISA / EP
9 . Verwendung von weniger als 6 Gew.% PolyglyceryMO-Stearat, bezogen auf die Gesamtmasse der Zubereitung, zur Herstellung kosmetischer oder dermatologischer Zubereitungen mit einer verbesserten Hautverträglichkeit und Milde gegenüber 9. Use of less than 6% by weight polyglycerate MO stearate, based on the total mass of the preparation, for the preparation of cosmetic or dermatological preparations with improved skin tolerance and mildness
Zubereitungen mit anderen hydrophilen Emulgator/en und ansonsten gleicher  Preparations with other hydrophilic emulsifier (s) and otherwise the same
Zusammensetzung.  Composition.
10. Verwendung nach Anspruch 9, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Gehalt an weiteren Emulgatoren weniger als 0,01 Gew.%, bezogen auf die Gesamtmasse der Zubereitung beträgt. 10. Use according to claim 9, characterized in that the content of further emulsifiers less than 0.01 wt.%, Based on the total mass of the preparation.
11. Verfahren zur Herstellung kosmetischer oder dermatologischer Emulsionszubereitungen in einem cold-cold- Verfahren, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass als Emulgator Polyglyceryl- 10-Stearat eingesetzt wird. 11. Process for the preparation of cosmetic or dermatological emulsion preparations in a cold-cold process, characterized in that polyglyceryl-10-stearate is used as the emulsifier.
BERICHTIGTES BLATT (REGEL 91) ADJUSTED SHEET (RULE 91)
ISA/EP  ISA / EP
EP12727305.0A 2011-06-07 2012-06-05 Polyethylene glycol-free cosmetic or dermatological preparations Ceased EP2717970A2 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE201110077060 DE102011077060A1 (en) 2011-06-07 2011-06-07 Cosmetic or dermatological emulsion preparation, useful as oil-in-water emulsion or hydrodispersion, comprises polyglyceryl-10 stearate
DE201110077018 DE102011077018A1 (en) 2011-06-07 2011-06-07 Cosmetic or dermatological preparation, useful as oil-in-water emulsion and hydrodispersion, comprises polyglyceryl-10 stearate and ethoxylated emulsifiers
PCT/EP2012/002374 WO2012167905A2 (en) 2011-06-07 2012-06-05 Polyethylene glycol-free cosmetic or dermatological preparations

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Publication Number Publication Date
EP2717970A2 true EP2717970A2 (en) 2014-04-16

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WO (1) WO2012167905A2 (en)

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DE102017204792A1 (en) 2017-03-22 2018-09-27 Beiersdorf Ag Sunscreen with polyglyceryl-10 stearate and linalool
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