EP2601336A2 - Machine for stitching shoe parts to a related sole - Google Patents
Machine for stitching shoe parts to a related soleInfo
- Publication number
- EP2601336A2 EP2601336A2 EP11760562.6A EP11760562A EP2601336A2 EP 2601336 A2 EP2601336 A2 EP 2601336A2 EP 11760562 A EP11760562 A EP 11760562A EP 2601336 A2 EP2601336 A2 EP 2601336A2
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- machine
- foot
- sewing
- needle
- abutment
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
Links
- 238000009958 sewing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 49
- 210000000056 organ Anatomy 0.000 claims description 14
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 210000000078 claw Anatomy 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000011144 upstream manufacturing Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- 230000000149 penetrating effect Effects 0.000 claims 1
- 238000004026 adhesive bonding Methods 0.000 description 5
- 239000010985 leather Substances 0.000 description 4
- 230000010355 oscillation Effects 0.000 description 4
- 238000005304 joining Methods 0.000 description 3
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 description 3
- 230000037361 pathway Effects 0.000 description 3
- 230000006978 adaptation Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000000284 resting effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 230000003213 activating effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000002547 anomalous effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000012467 final product Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000006870 function Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000047 product Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000001681 protective effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000007787 solid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920002994 synthetic fiber Polymers 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A43—FOOTWEAR
- A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
- A43B9/00—Footwear characterised by the assembling of the individual parts
- A43B9/04—Welted footwear
- A43B9/06—Welted footwear stitched or nailed through
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
- D05B—SEWING
- D05B15/00—Machines for sewing leather goods
- D05B15/02—Shoe sewing machines
Definitions
- the present invention relates to the technical sector concerning the sewing of elements, for example an upper, to bottoms for realising shoes.
- Machines are known for curved-needle sewing, in which the needle is borne at the free end of an arm, radially keyed on a shaft arranged longitudinally in the head of the machine.
- the shaft is destined to be activated in alternated oscillating motion, such as to move the needle between two extreme positions along a curved trajectory that is concentric with the radius of curvature of the needle.
- the machine is provided with suitable support and guide means, destined to define the correct positioning and trim of both the upper and the bottom during the sewing.
- the needle In the outward oscillation the needle first passes through the lower edge of the upper, and then the bottom, then to enter a rotating hook device, commonly known as a crochet, which is suitable for cooperating with the needle in order to form the sewing stitch.
- a rotating hook device commonly known as a crochet
- a positioning foot is activated to press the bottom in an opposite direction to the advancing of the needle, such as to bear the thrust thereof.
- the longitudinal shaft With the needle engaged in the upper and the bottom the longitudinal shaft is translated axially in synchrony with the crochet, by an amount that is equal to a predetermined sewing step, determining the advancement of the material to be sewn.
- the BALLERINA shoe is constituted by an open upper, having small dimensions, joined to a slim bottom often lacking a heel and preferably made of leather; the bottom is prepared with a step in the relative perimeter edge and an incision that, starting from the upper surface of the bottom, penetrates obliquely into the thickness thereof, in the direction of the perimeter edge, and extends along a closed-loop pathway which follows the plan profile of the bottom at a practically constant distance.
- this incision is known as a channel.
- the upper is turned inside-out and the relative lower edge is glued at the step position.
- the join is stabilised by a stitching which goes from the internal end of the incision up to the step, involving the lower pre-glued edge of the upper; once the sewing has been completed, the upper is newly turned and the stitching itself is invisible, both externally and internally of the shoe.
- the sewing machine of the cited patent application is destined to realise the stitching, starting from a semi-finished workpiece, as described, by an open upper priorly turned and glued to the perimeter edge of a bottom provided, in the upper surface with an oblique incision.
- the machine comprises: a vertical support column, solidly constrained to an oscillating arm, for resting the bottom; a spreader foot, made solid to the head of the machine, destined to partially insert in the incision, for distancing the adjacent flaps; an abutting foot, opposite the positioning foot, destined to laterally abut the semi-finished workpiece, for defining the horizontal position of the workpiece; a curved needle, made to oscillate between a retracted position and an advanced position; in the advanced position the needle inserts between the flaps in order to pass, in order, through the bottom and the upper in the mutually-glued zone.
- One of the main advantageous aspects of the machine lies in the fact that the operating organs which constitute the setting-up of BALLERINA shoe stitching can be rapidly demounted and replaced with others, so that the machine can temporarily be converted for other operations.
- the aim of the present invention is therefore to provide a machine for sewing elements to a bottom for shoes, exploiting the intrinsic characteristics of curved- needle machines and is equipped such as to enable, with small adaptation, realisation of a wide variety of operations and shoes comprising, among those types, the one known as the BALLERINA.
- a further aim of the invention consists in providing a machines which can perform the stitching starting from detached elements, without any need for preliminary gluing actions, though not excluding efficient operation with a pre-glued semifinished workpiece.
- a further aim of the invention is to provide a machines which is able to sew elements to a slim bottom made either of leather or a synthetic material, in which the incision (channel) can be provided in the upper surface or in the lower surface, in order to respectively obtain invisible seams, or seams that are in view.
- a further aim of the invention relates to the desire to provide a machine in which the set-up characterising the machine can be rapidly demounted in order to convert the machine for other operations.
- a further aims consists in provided, alternatively, a machine in which a straight needle is provided, while keeping the functional characteristics of the machine with a curved needle more or less intact.
- a machine for sewing elements to a bottom for shoes the bottom being provided with an abutment opposite the perimeter edge, extending along a looped pathway which follows, at a more or less constant distance, the plan profile thereof, with the above-described machine comprising: a positioning foot provided with a slot, which positioning foot is fixed to a bearing body solidly constrained to a head of the machine, which positioning foot is able to abut against the abutment in a zone of the abutment from each time involved in the sewing; a needle mobile between a retracted position, in which it is external of at least one of said elements, the bottom and the positioning foot, and an advanced position, in which the needle is able to pass through the at least an element, then to penetrate laterally into the perimeter edge, then to exit at the abutment, then to transit through the slot of the positioning foot and then to enter a rotary-hook device, provided for cooperating with the needle so as to realize stitches of the sewing; means for horizontally synchronization
- the above-described machine enables obtaining the set aims thanks to the conformation and arrangement of the positioning foot, which determines, for the bottom, an orientation such that the relative perimeter edge, in the sewing zone, is on the entry side of the needle, as is the element to be joined thereto.
- the machine provided can work equally on leather or synthetic bottoms, with the abutment defined internally of the oblique incision (the channel), or profiled externally by the bottom itself. In the case of the oblique incision, this can be provided in the upper surface or in the lower surface, in order to obtain, respectively, either invisible or visible stitch seams.
- the set-up which makes the machine conform to the invention can be rapidly demounted, in some cases even only partially, in order to convert the machine for other operations.
- the arrangement of the elements to be sewn enables realising, alternatively, a machine having a straight needle, which maintaining almost intact the functional characteristics of the machine with the curved needle.
- figure 1 is a partial perspective view of the machine, in the stitching zone, with some parts in exploded view;
- figure 2 is a partial perspective view of a first bottom and an upper for obtaining a BALLERINA type shoe
- ⁇ figure 3 is a partial perspective view of the machine, from a viewing angle similar to that of figure 1 , during the sewing of the bottom and the upper of figure 2;
- figure 4 is a view in larger scale of a detail of the sewing step of figure 3, from a different viewing angle;
- ⁇ figure 5 schematically illustrates a second of the machine of figures 3 and 4, obtained on the vertical lie plane of the needle, during the sewing operation;
- figure 6 is a partial section of the first bottom sewn to the upper of figure 2, and a subsequent manual step of turning the upper inside-out;
- figure 7 is a partial perspective view of a second bottom and an upper for obtaining a shoe having an invisible stitching
- figure 8 schematically illustrates a second of the machine alike to that of figure 5, during the sewing of the bottom to the upper of figure 7;
- figure 9 is a partial section of the second bottom sewn to the upper of figure 7, and a subsequently manual step of turning the upper inside-out;
- figure 10 is a partial perspective view of a third bottom and an upper for obtaining a shoe having a visible stitching
- ⁇ figure 11 schematically illustrates a section of the machine alike to that of figure 5, during the sewing of the bottom and the upper of figure 10;
- figure 12 is partial perspective view of a fourth bottom and a lateral welt to be joined to the edge of the bottom;
- figure 13 schematically illustrates a section of the machine alike to figure 5, during sewing of the bottom and the welt of figure 12.
- M denotes the sewing machine of the invention, in its entirety, provided such as to join a bottom F for a shoe to at least an element E.
- the machine M which in itself is known, comprises a head in which the movement organs for activating the sewing organs are housed.
- a longitudinal shaft enters between the movement organs which projects frontally from the head and bears a radial arm 1 (seen only partially in figure 1) keyed thereto, to the free end of which a needle 4 is fixed, developing in an arc of circumference, the centre of which coincides with the axis of the longitudinal axis.
- the longitudinal shaft is destined to be activated in alternating oscillating motion, such as to move the needle 4 between two extreme positions, respectively a retracted position and an advanced position A, along a curved trajectory that is concentric to the radius of curvature of the needle 4 and arranged on a vertical plane.
- the needle 4 is destined to encounter and pass beyond the sewing material, supported and positioned by suitable organs, as will be described in detail herein below.
- the needle 4 is in the advanced position A, the point thereof is internal of a rotating hook device 5, known as a crochet, with which it cooperates for realising stitches having two knotted threads.
- the longitudinal shaft is axially translatable with alternating machine in runs of predetermined size, in synchrony with the crochet 5 and in suitable phase relation with the oscillation of the needle 4, such as to impart thereon a perpendicular motion to the relative oscillating plane, equal to a predetermined sewing step.
- a known device, not illustrated, for protecting the needle can be associated to the needle 4, which device is constituted by an oscillating lever, concentric to the radial arm 1 and subjected to the action of a spring.
- the machine M is provided with a straight needle, axially activated such as to define the respective retracted and advanced positions, and subjected to organs which can translate it perpendicularly to the axis in order to obtain the runs corresponding to the sewing step.
- the machine M of the invention is equipped with a positioning foot 10, fixed to a bearing body 11 solidly constrained to the head of the machine M.
- the positioning foot 10 is arranged by a flank of the crochet 5, by the lateral opening (not illustrated) provided therein to enable entry of the needle 4.
- the positioning foot 10 exhibits a horizontally-developing slot 10A, destined to enable transit of the needle 4 as well as translation thereof in a step advancement.
- the positioning foot 10 fashions two protuberances 10B, almost parallel, extending on an opposite side to the crochet 5 (figure 1), the function of which will emerge more fully in the following.
- the bottom for the shoe F must be of a first type, distinguished with reference numeral F1 , while element E to be joined to the bottom is an open upper T (figure 2).
- the first bottom F1 is relatively slim (about 6 mm), preferably made of leather and lacking a heel.
- the first bottom F1 comprises a step 21 in the relative perimeter edge 22 and an incision 23 (channel) which, starting from the upper surface 24 of the first bottom F1 penetrates obliquely into the thickness thereof, in the direction of the perimeter edge 22, and extends along a closed-loop pathway which follows, at a practically constant distance, the plan profile of the first bottom F1 ; the inside of the incision 23 defines an abutment B.
- the upper T before being sewn, is turned inside-out.
- the machine M apart from the positioning foot 10, is provided with:
- a curling group 30 comprising a curling foot 31 and a separating blade 32, destined to retain a larger extension in plan view of the upper T with respect to the perimeter of the first bottom F; - a leather-guiding foot 40, destined to convey the edge of the upper T towards the sewing zone as well as to constitute an upper abutment therefor (Fig. 3).
- the curling foot 31 fixed to a relative arm 31 B, is provided with a tip 31 A and is arranged upstream of the needle 4, with respect to an advancement direction X of the material to be stitched (figures 1 , 3).
- the curling foot 31 is activated by organs of the machine in a claw movement, such that the tip 31 A, as it presses on the edge of the upper T, causes an advancement thereof that is greater than the advancement caused by the sewing step imparted by the translation of the needle-crochet group.
- the separating blade 32 which is fixed removably to the bearing body 11 is positioned at the curling foot 31 , such as to be flat in front of the curling foot 31 at a suitable distance from the tip 31 A (figures 1 , 3, 4).
- the separating blade 32 is destined to prevent contact between the bottom F1 and the upper T, such that the action of the curling foot 31 regards only the curling foot (figure 4) itself.
- the leather-guiding foot 40 also removably fixed to the bearing body 11 , extends between the zone of action of the curling foot 31 and the sewing foot when the needle 4 operates.
- the machine M comprises rest organs 13, destined to provide a lower abutment to the bottom F for shoes.
- the rest organs 13, in the embodiment for BALLERINA type shoes, comprise an arm 14, with a plate 15 arranged on the top thereof (figure 1).
- the plate 15 is associated to means for height-adjustment, not illustrated in the drawings.
- the first bottom F1 is arranged resting on the plate 15 and orientated such that the positioning foot 10 inserts, with the relative protuberances 10B, in the incision 23 in order to spread the adjacent flaps L1 , L2 in the zone thereof which will be progressively involved in the stitching operation (figures 4, 5).
- the splayed flaps L1 , L2 define the abutment B which halts the entry of the protuberances 10B in the incision 23.
- the positioning foot 10, engaged in the incision 23, is destined to support the first bottom F1 even in the absence of the plate 15.
- the upper T turned inside-out, is positioned such that the edge thereof destined to be sewn is:
- the first bottom F1 and the upper T exhibit, in a known way, respective reference notches (not illustrated).
- the first two notches are reciprocally aligned at the start of the sewing operation, while others indicate the tracts in which the curling foot 31 has to be activated in order to increase the advancement of the upper T with respect to the bottom.
- the upper T is newly turned inside-out in order to return it to the normal configuration.
- the stitching C is invisible from the outside of the shoe, as it is hidden by the folding of the upper T and is also invisible from the inside, as it is covered by the flaps L1 , L2 of the slit 23, newly neared to one another (figure 6).
- Figures from 7 to 9 illustrate a second bottom F2, in which the incision 23 is absent and a border 28 is provided at a constant distance from the perimeter edge 22, which border 28 stretches upwards.
- a step 21 is defined between the border 28 and the perimeter edge 22, which step is alike to the step in the firs bottom F, while the internal side of the border 28 defines the abutment B.
- the second bottom F2 is positioned such that the border 28 is facing upwards.
- the positioning foot 10 has a modified form, such that the protuberances 10B are longer and reach the abutment B conformed by the border 28, defining the correct position of the second bottom F2 (figure 8).
- the upper T is sewn inside-out and, not being pre-glued, requires the use of a curling group 30.
- the upper T is newly turned-out (figure 9).
- the machine M in the above configuration, can realise various shoe models, apart from the ones described, in which the lateral stitching between the bottom F and the upper T is in view.
- Figures 10 and 11 illustrate a third bottom F3 in which the incision 23 is realised in the respective external surface 26, i.e. the surface which when the shoe is finished will rest on the ground.
- the inside of the incision 23 defines the abutment B.
- the third bottom F3 exhibits a step 21 similar to the ones already described with reference to the first and second bottom F1 , F2.
- the third bottom F3 is arranged with the external surface 26 facing upwards, such that the positioning foot 10 can insert between the limbs L1 , L2 of the incision 23 (figure 11).
- the presence of the rest organs 13 is optional.
- the upper T is stitched straight, i.e. in the normal position which it will have when the shoe is finished and, not being pre-glued, required the use of the curling group 30.
- the leather-guiding foot 40 in the presence of the step 21 , superiorly abuts the third bottom F3, defining the correct height thereof (see figure 11 once more); in the absence of the step 21 , it abuts both the bottom F3 and the edge of the upper T.
- a decorative strip or a faux welt 50 can be applied (broken lines in figure 11), which is involved by the stitching.
- the incision 23 on the external surface 26 is sealed, for example by gluing the flaps L1 , L2, and, if so required, a heel is applied (not illustrated).
- the machine M can perform other operations, among which joining, with a visible stitching, a bottom F to an element E constituted by a welt 60.
- Figures 12 and 13 illustrate a fourth bottom F4 in which the incision 23 is realised in the upper surface 24, while the perimeter edge 22 exhibits a straight cut.
- the welt 60 exhibits, on the internal side, a lip 61 which superiorly delimits a niche 62 destined to contain the perimeter edge 22.
- the machine M has a simple set-up with respect to the configuration described herein up to this point, in which the leather-guiding foot 40 and the separating blade 32 are absent; further, the curling group 30 is maintained in an inoperative position, as it is not required.
- the fourth bottom F4 is positioned such that the positioning foot 10 inserts in the slit 23, such as to distance the flaps L1 , L2, similarly to what has already been described (figure 13).
- the presence of the rest organs 13 is optional.
- the welt 60 thanks to the lip 61 , is easily positioned on the perimeter edge 22and once the first stitches have been sewn automatically follows the advancing of the fourth bottom F4 (see figure 13 once more).
- An operational variant which is not illustrated relates to the above-described operation and consists in using a fifth bottom having the incision 23 realised in the external surface, i.e. the surface destined to rest on the ground, while the perimeter edge exhibits a straight cut alike to the cut of the above-mentioned fourth bottom F4.
- the sewing procedure is similar to what was set out with reference to the fourth bottom F4.
Landscapes
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)
- Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)
Abstract
Description
Claims
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
ITBO2010A000512A IT1401264B1 (en) | 2010-08-06 | 2010-08-06 | MACHINE FOR SEWING OF ELEMENTS AT A BASE FOR FOOTWEAR |
PCT/IB2011/053490 WO2012017413A2 (en) | 2010-08-06 | 2011-08-04 | A machine for sewing elements to a shoe botton |
Publications (2)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
EP2601336A2 true EP2601336A2 (en) | 2013-06-12 |
EP2601336B1 EP2601336B1 (en) | 2017-12-13 |
Family
ID=43739423
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
EP11760562.6A Active EP2601336B1 (en) | 2010-08-06 | 2011-08-04 | Machine for stitching shoe parts to a related sole |
Country Status (5)
Country | Link |
---|---|
EP (1) | EP2601336B1 (en) |
ES (1) | ES2662721T3 (en) |
IT (1) | IT1401264B1 (en) |
PT (1) | PT2601336T (en) |
WO (1) | WO2012017413A2 (en) |
Families Citing this family (2)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
ITUB20152321A1 (en) * | 2015-07-20 | 2017-01-20 | Ciucani Mocassino Machinery S R L | SHOE FOR FOOTWEAR, FOOTWEAR INCLUDING THIS BOTTOM AND MACHINE FOR THE CONSTRUCTION OF A FOOTWEAR INCLUDING SUCH FUND |
KR102138621B1 (en) * | 2019-05-31 | 2020-07-28 | 아진시스텍(주) | Robot automation system for fastening of sandals upper and midsole using fiber rope |
Family Cites Families (4)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
FR513102A (en) * | 1914-09-11 | 1921-02-08 | United Shoe Machinery Ab | New shoemaking process and machine that can be used to implement this process |
US1667781A (en) * | 1922-08-09 | 1928-05-01 | United Shoe Machinery Corp | Method of manufacturing boots and shoes |
GB704548A (en) * | 1951-04-20 | 1954-02-24 | British United Shoe Machinery | Improvements in or relating to sewing machines |
IT1033684B (en) * | 1975-07-28 | 1979-08-10 | Ciucani M | DEVICE FOR CUTTING THREADS USED FOR SEWING IN SEWING MACHINES IN PARTICULAR FOR THE SEWING OF THE EDGES OF SHOES COMMONLY CALLED MOCCASIN |
-
2010
- 2010-08-06 IT ITBO2010A000512A patent/IT1401264B1/en active
-
2011
- 2011-08-04 WO PCT/IB2011/053490 patent/WO2012017413A2/en active Application Filing
- 2011-08-04 ES ES11760562.6T patent/ES2662721T3/en active Active
- 2011-08-04 EP EP11760562.6A patent/EP2601336B1/en active Active
- 2011-08-04 PT PT117605626T patent/PT2601336T/en unknown
Non-Patent Citations (1)
Title |
---|
See references of WO2012017413A2 * |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
ES2662721T3 (en) | 2018-04-09 |
PT2601336T (en) | 2018-03-21 |
WO2012017413A2 (en) | 2012-02-09 |
WO2012017413A3 (en) | 2012-03-29 |
EP2601336B1 (en) | 2017-12-13 |
IT1401264B1 (en) | 2013-07-18 |
ITBO20100512A1 (en) | 2012-02-07 |
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