EP2568835B1 - Anthropomorphic mannequin - Google Patents

Anthropomorphic mannequin Download PDF

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Publication number
EP2568835B1
EP2568835B1 EP11724275.0A EP11724275A EP2568835B1 EP 2568835 B1 EP2568835 B1 EP 2568835B1 EP 11724275 A EP11724275 A EP 11724275A EP 2568835 B1 EP2568835 B1 EP 2568835B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
mannequin
volume
mannequin according
predetermined areas
area
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EP11724275.0A
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German (de)
French (fr)
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EP2568835A1 (en
Inventor
Pauline Zanatta
Audrey Bergenthal
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Euveka
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Euveka
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H5/00—Dress forms; Bust forms; Stands
    • A41H5/01—Dress forms; Bust forms; Stands with means for adjustment, e.g. of height
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H5/00—Dress forms; Bust forms; Stands
    • A41H5/02—Inflatable forms
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A47—FURNITURE; DOMESTIC ARTICLES OR APPLIANCES; COFFEE MILLS; SPICE MILLS; SUCTION CLEANERS IN GENERAL
    • A47F—SPECIAL FURNITURE, FITTINGS, OR ACCESSORIES FOR SHOPS, STOREHOUSES, BARS, RESTAURANTS OR THE LIKE; PAYING COUNTERS
    • A47F8/00—Dummies, busts or the like, e.g. for displaying garments

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a dummy equipped with a size modification device intended more particularly for sewing as well as its adaptation method controlled by a specific software.
  • manikins For manikins, to date, those designed by sewing pieces of fabric like coarse cloth, directly or by means of a thin layer of cotton, on the surface of a form made of cardboard and similar, those whose interior is obtained in a mixture of plaster and textiles and whose exterior is made of fabric and obtained by wrapping a plastic foam on the outside, the same of which the outside may be made of paper, those whose exterior is fabric and obtained by winding a soft plastic foam outside a manikin plastic or the like.
  • these manikins are made to standard human body measurements or to be a little smaller than standard measurements, it is almost impossible, even with a large number of model models, to be in complete agreement with the user.
  • Document is known FR-A-548 772 a mannequin of the bust type whose volume can be modified entirely by air injection.
  • the internal volume of the bust is completely filled with air and the volume of air determines a level of inflation of the bust.
  • the document FR-A-2515937 relating to a personalized dummy allows the exact reproduction of a bust of a person by the application of a tubular jersey stretched and molded on the bust of a natural person, which after drying, can be assembled into a "dummy imprint" To actual measurements.
  • This device characterized by the hardening of plaster band on the body of the person requires to be split along the back of the person generating several constraints: the obligation of the physical presence of the person to proceed with his measurement, the inconvenience caused by the operation of molding and cutting on his body strips of plaster. This process is binding and slow. It also poses problems of conservation and storage and the risk of injury. It does not respond to a logic of technical, temporal and financial optimization of the tailoring process.
  • Invention patent N ° US6438853 B1 relating to a set of mannequins with special measurements and shapes manufactured according to a pre-established database on a study of the morphologies of the soldiers of the American army poses the problem also of the storage and the cost of this set. It does not bring a global and unique response to a multi-problem namely the diversity of morphologies of the human body to be transcribed on a single object to optimize temporally and qualitatively a production of clothing.
  • these dummies cited in the state of the art all represent an external form of the body according to fixed standards or at most non-evolutive to the real. They are not infinitely adjustable. They are more arcana used to support the work of the technicians but never real busts anatomically homothetic to the human body of the woman, the man and the child.
  • An anthropomorphic manikin such as the preamble of claim 1 is known in WO2010 / 096878 .
  • the invention overcomes at least some of the aforementioned drawbacks.
  • the object of the invention is to provide an anthropomorphic manikin whose sizes of the bust and possibly members as well as the volumes of predetermined parts can be modified.
  • control means are configured to independently control the means for varying the volume of at least two predetermined zones. While the state of the art offers, at best, an overall size change of the bust of a manikin, the invention offers a precise and completely flexible adaptation. For this purpose, it comprises means for varying the volume at several predetermined zones. Thus, a separate adjustment is possible at different locations of the manikin.
  • control means control each volume variation means and, advantageously, independently for at least some of them. So, the dummy can be conformed exactly to the image of the person. Each of its measurements can be taken into account.
  • the volume variation means being located and spaced apart, they are small in size and only require low control powers.
  • the bags used are reduced and inflate and deflate quickly and with low pressures and / or volume of air.
  • the shaping of the manikin is therefore very dynamic.
  • the object of the invention is therefore an anthropomorphic manikin composed of a bust comprising means for varying the volume of predetermined zones, and means for controlling the volume variation means, the control means being configured to independently control the means for varying the volume of at least two predetermined zones; in which the volume variation means comprise, for at least one predetermined zone, volume expansion means of predetermined zones which are deformable soft preformed pouches connected to a pneumatic assembly capable of delivering compressed air allowing their growth or decay characterized by the fact that said preformed pockets are protected by a protective coating against drilling by needles.
  • Advantageous embodiments of this anthropomorphous dummy are the subject of dependent claims 2 to 18.
  • the manikin is an anthropomorphous manikin with continuous and controlled growth and decay.
  • the manikin can be mounted on a pedestal and is an assembly of at least three sections defined in a bust, an arm and a leg composed of defined zones subject to the expansion of the material which composes them in this place, in volume ( depth, length, width).
  • Linked to software the manikin grows and decreases according to a table of measurements validated by the instructor from a computerized terminal.
  • the density variability of the dummy by means of a composite material with continuous and controlled deformation offers the possibility of modeling in 3D imaging and simultaneous real representation by means of a uniform gradation not only in an interstitial context.
  • a free gradation with a view of making semi and made-to-measure as is commonly practiced in Huawei couture but also in other areas of application.
  • the manikin may be composed of a rigid structure of light aluminum or hollow rigid plastic and covered in some places (areas subject to expansion) of deformable pockets computer-linked to the central unit and the software to deform them. These pockets are for example fixed according to the human anatomy to reproduce the growth and decay of the muscles of the human body.
  • the deformable zones are optionally protected by a coat type chainmail avoiding any risk of drilling.
  • the chain mail having the known property of adapting to different sizes is sufficient because of its fine mesh to stop needlesticks and protect the envelope covering the areas subject to deformation.
  • a latex skin or equivalent synthetic material advantageously covers the whole in order to maintain and ensure cohesion to the entire manikin.
  • the structure of the bust is made of lightweight material, non-deformable type aluminum or hollow rigid plastic.
  • the manikin can be covered in any point of a flexible and elastic material imitating the human texture namely latex, silicone or polyurethane (non-erodible / stabilized) or durable elastomer to allow the continuous and controlled deformation of said material.
  • the manikin optionally further comprises a table interface adapted to be displayed on the instructor terminal to provide a means for entering and storing the digital data. It comprises a database storage module, a database management module, a structural analysis processing module, a virtual modification means module corresponding to real means.
  • the grading computer system may include means for automatically generating gradation rules from a standard or free measurement scale.
  • the manikin is here composed of a skeleton / rigid frame representing a bust (A), an arm (B) and a leg (C).
  • the bust, the arm and the leg can be obtained by sculpture or molding in a material plastic type or rigid aluminum.
  • These fixed and variable elements have specific sections corresponding to previously defined zones where the material that composes them expands in volume (depth, length, width).
  • points of attachment are practiced in places where the previously mentioned areas can undergo deformation.
  • electrical cables that are connected to the deformation zones and allow their expansion via a software that remote control.
  • the dummy as a whole (bust / arm / leg) is mounted and articulated on an adjustable tubular height structure carrier attached to a foot frame. It is fixed on a foot frame (1) adjustable in height by a screw clamping system (2) but can also be removed / unscrewed from this frame at the crotch for garment manufacturing needs.
  • the manikin is represented in its different parts which constitute its internal skeleton.
  • the skeletal armatures constituting the bust (A), arm (B) and leg (C) sections are molded of hollow rigid plastic or hollow rigid type aluminum materials.
  • the arm is connected in its upper part to the bust by means of a multidirectional kneecap (6) allowing its manual swing backwards and forwards but also from top to bottom.
  • An upper arm portion and a lower arm portion are connected to each other by a hinge (7).
  • the position of the axes of the bent joint is such that when the lower arm portion is turned to the folded position, foreign matter constituting the outer coating of the manikin is prevented from being sandwiched and deformed between the arm portions in a location in front of the elbow joint. It is the same for areas subject to volumetric deformation.
  • Hydraulic type cylinders at different levels allow a growth / decay measured according to the desired size and adjustable by the software.
  • the bust is provided with a housing (D) where a computer unit (11) can be placed comprising a control interface (12) that can control on the one hand the hydraulic cylinders (1,3,8,9) allowing the lengthening or narrowing of the limbs and the position of the manikin relative to the ground.
  • a computer unit (11) can be placed comprising a control interface (12) that can control on the one hand the hydraulic cylinders (1,3,8,9) allowing the lengthening or narrowing of the limbs and the position of the manikin relative to the ground.
  • the cylinder (8) allows the elongation at the forearm between the wrist and the elbow.
  • the jack (3) allows the lengthening of the bust at the waist. It is attached between two transverse plates (4,5) located on the upper surface of the lower part of the manikin and one located inside the upper part of the bust also representing the base of the box.
  • the jack (9) is located at the level of the leg of the manikin, between the thigh and the knee and allows the elongation thereof.
  • the cylinder (1) allows the positioning of the manikin relative to the ground.
  • the arm is articulated at the shoulder by a multidirectional ball joint system (6).
  • the articulation of the elbow (7a) is effected by means of a clip engaging the upper part of the arm and the lower part fixed by means of a screw allowing the articulation between the two parts.
  • the dimensions of all the elements are to be determined according to the dimensions of the basic skeleton which must be reproduced by molding and which represents a size 34.
  • each of these zones is connected to a central unit (11) with control interface (12) ideally located in the chest compartment (d).
  • This central unit works with data obtained from a specific software that records the human size variations of each zone (26).
  • the control unit must control a varied power by means of a power variator (27) for each of these areas so that they can operate independently of each other.
  • this system is equipped with an information entry frame (26) which informs the central unit on the commands entered by the user determining the size elongations and the volume expansion of each zone. which allows the device to determine after calculation the electric / mechanical forces or by a system carrying compressed air to implement for the increase or decrease of said zones.
  • FIG 7 an example of mounting the expansion zone is presented explaining the operating principle applicable to the entire skeleton.
  • the device comprises a reproduction of the reinforcement of the hollow rigid plastic molded skeleton (28) which is traversed by an electric cable (29) connected to the expandable zone (30) on the one hand, and to the instructor terminal (11) on the other hand.
  • the expandable zone is fixed to the frame by a cavalier attachment system (31) allowing it to be held on the skeleton.
  • the deformation zone is protected, preferably over its entire surface, by a protective coating whose nature is chosen to withstand drilling by sewing needles.
  • a metal coating leaving a freedom of elastic deformation gives satisfaction.
  • the entire skeleton is optionally covered by a latex skin or equivalent synthetic material (34) of varying thickness.
  • the primary application of the anthropomorphic dummy according to the invention is to allow to have a bust on which the skilled person works according to the measurements required in a logic of ready-to-wear and / or fashion, tailor-made.
  • a novelty lies in the technical and computer mechanism of inflation of targeted areas of the manikin corresponding to existing measurements of sizes. It is a device applied to the sewing dummy of several volumes associated but independent of each other whose dimensions are remotely controlled by software.
  • the dummy according to the invention may be a women's seam dummy but may also be applied to the production of a male mannequin or a child dummy and large mannequin.
  • the manikin according to the invention makes it possible to avoid the cost and the storage of different busts in different sizes, according to the custom in the clothing sector.
  • the manikin according to the invention makes it possible to reduce the operations of retouching, of modifications of a canvas and / or of a prototype.
  • this can go as far as reducing or even eliminating the risks of failure of an unsuitable gradation and / or of a prototype.
  • the manikin according to the invention makes it possible to reduce the costs of using a dummy-booth since the garment placed on the dummy, which is the subject of the invention, will be the size of the garment.
  • the manikin offers unprecedented safety and technical reliability through its predetermined homothetic ratio between the desired size and the manikin. Indeed, it is common to note that the modelers complain that several identical models of manikins of the same company present differences in measurements.
  • the manikin also offers technical and practical ease to the skilled person as he becomes the sole basis of his work for the development of a clothing. From the beginning to the end of the production process, he can find in his database, the measurement table of the desired model and validate it in real life by fitting on the manikin adapted to the exact measurements of the garment. This eliminates the unreliable constraint of living dummy fitting that never has the exact measurements for the garment. This saves time by eliminating long periods of fitting on a live dummy, which must also be revalidated on wooden dummies. In addition to technical simplification, there is also an optimization of working time.
  • the manikin object of the invention, also allows the acceleration of the production process: optimization of the temporal and financial management of production.
  • the model, object of the invention thanks to its 3D modeling and real, a dual application, both in the ready-to-wear and strict fashion industry.
  • the inflator system of the manikin according to volumetric measurements entered in the software database ensures a variability of the offer through a use plural according to the standard needs of each sector and each society.
  • the invention makes it possible in the sector of the ready-to-wear industry to optimize mass production.
  • the manikin, object of the invention ensures inter-company harmonization of the bases and technical tools of work and optimizes, thereby, the temporal and financial management of the production process.
  • the manikin allows to eliminate the problems of coherence of gradation and modelism of the prototype in a logic of outsourced production as it is today predominantly practiced in the ready-to-wear mass and luxury, insofar as at each end in the chain, the models are validated on this same thermo-deformable bust structure with the exact measurements desired by the ordering company.
  • every mannequin producing company produces his manikin with measurements and a specific density that does not allow a rendering of the rigging of the canvas and the fitting of the identical prototype according to the ordering companies and companies specializing in prototype production but especially manufacturing plants, because they do not usually have the same models.
  • manikin offers the possibility of an optimal implementation of segmental production in a global-local economic strategy.
  • 3D modeling on the manikin offers in a logic of globalized production the possibility to a company to set up a production with the morphologies of each market or market segment.
  • Software including measurement charts from different countries or continents allows a French clothing company to offer a production adapted to market measurements (for Chinese women, for example).
  • the manikin object of the invention may allow application as a showcase mannequin.
  • an optimal downstream use in sales places is envisaged by adding to the aforementioned mannequin an arm and a leg as well as a head with a human face.
  • the window mannequin presents an advantageous visualization of the final product preserving the highlighted garment as well as a presentation always standardized to the size of the exposed product.
  • the device can be applied in fields other than the textile industry: by way of non-limiting example, this device applied to the sewing mannequin of several volumes associated but independent of each other whose dimensions will be remote controlled by a Adapted software can be used especially in different applications either as a manikin for medical studies, or as a manikin for cosmetic surgery, or as a manikin for rescue exercises, firefighters, or as an automobile crash test mannequin, or as a model for resistance (falls, sports, ”).
  • the manikin according to the invention is particularly intended for the reproduction of real or 3D sizes from recorded data of standard human sizes for making ready-to-wear, semi or customized on a single manikin.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Orthopedics, Nursing, And Contraception (AREA)
  • Processing Or Creating Images (AREA)
  • Instructional Devices (AREA)

Description

La présente invention concerne un mannequin équipé d'un dispositif de modification de tailles destiné plus particulièrement à la couture ainsi que son procédé d'adaptation commandé par un logiciel spécifique.The present invention relates to a dummy equipped with a size modification device intended more particularly for sewing as well as its adaptation method controlled by a specific software.

Pour les mannequins, on a utilisé jusqu'à ce jour ceux conçus en cousant des morceaux de tissus comme de la grosse toile, directement ou par le moyen d'une mince couche de coton, sur la surface d'une forme faite en carton et analogue, ceux dont l'intérieur est obtenu en un mélange de plâtre et de textiles et dont l'extérieur est en tissu et obtenus en enroulant une mousse de matière plastique à l'extérieur, les mêmes dont l'extérieur peut être en papier, ceux dont l'extérieur est en tissu et obtenus en enroulant une mousse de matière plastique molle à l'extérieur d'un mannequin en matière plastique ou analogue. Cependant, comme ces mannequins sont fabriqués selon des mesures standard du corps humain ou de façon à être un peu plus petits que les mesures standard, il est presque impossible, même avec un grand nombre de modèles de mannequins, d'être totalement en accord avec l'utilisateur.For manikins, to date, those designed by sewing pieces of fabric like coarse cloth, directly or by means of a thin layer of cotton, on the surface of a form made of cardboard and similar, those whose interior is obtained in a mixture of plaster and textiles and whose exterior is made of fabric and obtained by wrapping a plastic foam on the outside, the same of which the outside may be made of paper, those whose exterior is fabric and obtained by winding a soft plastic foam outside a manikin plastic or the like. However, as these manikins are made to standard human body measurements or to be a little smaller than standard measurements, it is almost impossible, even with a large number of model models, to be in complete agreement with the user.

Ainsi il est nécessaire qu'un mannequin soit révisé au moyen de rembourrage de coton ou analogue, pour se conformer à la silhouette de l'utilisateur. On a également utilisé un mannequin étudié de façon à pouvoir être ajusté selon la silhouette, à l'aide de plusieurs coussins. Cependant, en plus de la nécessité de disposer d'une grande variété de coussins, il est très difficile, dans ce cas, de régler le mannequin.Thus it is necessary that a mannequin is revised by means of cotton padding or the like, to conform to the silhouette of the user. A manikin was also studied so that it could be adjusted according to the silhouette, using several cushions. However, in addition to the need for a wide variety of cushions, it is very difficult, in this case, to adjust the manikin.

On connaît du document FR-A-548772 un mannequin du type buste dont le volume peut être modifié intégralement par injection d'air. Le volume intérieur du buste est totalement empli d'air et le volume d'air détermine un niveau de gonflage du buste.Document is known FR-A-548 772 a mannequin of the bust type whose volume can be modified entirely by air injection. The internal volume of the bust is completely filled with air and the volume of air determines a level of inflation of the bust.

Le document FR-A-2515937 relatif à un mannequin personnalisé permet la reproduction exacte d'un buste d'une personne par l'application d'un jersey tubulaire tendu et moulé sur le buste d'une personne physique, qui après séchage, peut être assemblé en un «mannequin empreinte» aux mesures réelles. Ce dispositif caractérisé par le durcissement de bande de plâtre sur le corps de la personne nécessite d'être fendu le long du dos de la personne générant plusieurs contraintes: l'obligation de la présence physique de la personne pour procéder à sa prise de mesure, la gêne occasionnée par l'opération de moulage et découpage sur son corps des bandes de plâtre. Ce processus est contraignant et lent. Il pose également des problèmes de conservation et de stockage et de risques de blessures. Il ne répond pas à une logique d'optimisation technique, temporelle et financière du processus de sur-mesure.The document FR-A-2515937 relating to a personalized dummy allows the exact reproduction of a bust of a person by the application of a tubular jersey stretched and molded on the bust of a natural person, which after drying, can be assembled into a "dummy imprint" To actual measurements. This device characterized by the hardening of plaster band on the body of the person requires to be split along the back of the person generating several constraints: the obligation of the physical presence of the person to proceed with his measurement, the inconvenience caused by the operation of molding and cutting on his body strips of plaster. This process is binding and slow. It also poses problems of conservation and storage and the risk of injury. It does not respond to a logic of technical, temporal and financial optimization of the tailoring process.

La demande de certificat d'utilité N°7538191 publiée sous le n° FR 2384465A relatif à un mannequin réglable et procédé de fabrication consiste en un mannequin se conformant à la partie supérieure du corps humain caractérisé en ce qu'il se compose d'un certain nombre de pièces à surfaces courbées, ayant des formes appropriées selon les diverses parties du corps supérieur, chaque pièce à surface courbée étant constituée d'un filet flexible et modérément plastique, pour permettre audit filet de conserver la forme à laquelle il a été déformé, et d'un revêtement couvrant ledit filet. Ce mannequin pose le problème d'une modélisation réglable et ajustable en 3D selon des données de gradation variable. Il n'offre qu'une seule possibilité de taille ajustée. Il manque de facilité d'usage et technique. Il n'offre pas un outil d'enregistrement et d'utilisation de ces données volumétriques. Il pose un problème d'efficacité économique dans la mesure où il n'offre qu'une mono-utilisation du mannequin.Application for a utility certificate No. 7538191 published under No. FR 2384465A relating to an adjustable dummy and method of manufacture consisting of a dummy conforming to the upper part of the human body, characterized in that it consists of a number of curved-surface pieces having appropriate shapes according to the various parts of the body. upper body, each curved surface piece consisting of a flexible and moderately plastic net, to allow said net to retain the shape to which it was deformed, and a coating covering said net. This manikin poses the problem of an adjustable modeling and adjustable in 3D according to variable gradation data. It offers only one possibility of adjusted size. It lacks ease of use and technique. It does not offer a tool for recording and using this volumetric data. It poses a problem of economic efficiency insofar as it offers only a single use of the manikin.

Le brevet d'invention N° US6438853 B1 relatif à un set de mannequins aux mesures et formes particulières fabriquées selon une base de données préétablies sur une étude des morphologies des soldats de l'armée américaine pose le problème également du stockage et du coût de cette panoplie. Il n'apporte pas une réponse globale et unique à un multi-problème à savoir la diversité des morphologies du corps humain devant être retranscrite sur un seul et même objet afin d'optimiser temporellement et qualitativement une production de vêtements.Invention patent N ° US6438853 B1 relating to a set of mannequins with special measurements and shapes manufactured according to a pre-established database on a study of the morphologies of the soldiers of the American army poses the problem also of the storage and the cost of this set. It does not bring a global and unique response to a multi-problem namely the diversity of morphologies of the human body to be transcribed on a single object to optimize temporally and qualitatively a production of clothing.

Par conséquent, ces mannequins cités dans l'état de la technique ne représentent tous qu'une forme extérieure du corps selon des standards fixes ou au maximum non évolutifs au réel. Ils ne sont pas réglables à l'infini. Ce sont davantage des arcanes servant de support au travail des techniciens mais jamais de véritables bustes anatomiquement homothétiques au corps humain de la femme, de l'homme et de l'enfant.Therefore, these dummies cited in the state of the art all represent an external form of the body according to fixed standards or at most non-evolutive to the real. They are not infinitely adjustable. They are more arcana used to support the work of the technicians but never real busts anatomically homothetic to the human body of the woman, the man and the child.

Ils ne comportent également aucun composant de nature technique, scientifique ou informatique offrant un rendu en 3D et au réel simultanément soit de la diversité des anatomies humaines soit des tableaux de mesures standard utilisés en gradation.They also do not include any component of a technical, scientific or computer nature that offers 3D rendering and simultaneously realizes either the diversity of human anatomies or the standard measurement tables used in gradation.

Surtout, ils n'apportent aucune solution technique nouvelle quant à la facilité de réalisation d'un modélisme en 3D et en réel sur mannequin. Ils ne proposent aucune solution technique quant au problème de gradation en ne permettant qu'une seule option, c'est toujours une taille par mannequin mais un seul et même mannequin ne peut avoir plusieurs tailles.Above all, they bring no new technical solution as to the ease of realization of a modeling in 3D and in real manikin. They offer no technical solution to the problem of gradation by allowing only one option, it is always a size by dummy but one and the same mannequin can not have several sizes.

Enfin ils ne permettent pas un enregistrement des données volumétriques sur une base de données informatique et une interaction entre l'outil informatique et le mannequin. Un mannequin antropomorphe tel que le préambule de la revendication 1 est connu dans WO2010/096878 .Finally, they do not allow a recording of volumetric data on a computer database and an interaction between the computer tool and the manikin. An anthropomorphic manikin such as the preamble of claim 1 is known in WO2010 / 096878 .

L'invention permet de remédier au moins à une partie des inconvénients précités.The invention overcomes at least some of the aforementioned drawbacks.

C'est pourquoi le but de l'invention est de fournir un mannequin anthropomorphe dont les tailles du buste et éventuellement de membres ainsi que les volumes de parties prédéterminées peuvent être modifiées.This is why the object of the invention is to provide an anthropomorphic manikin whose sizes of the bust and possibly members as well as the volumes of predetermined parts can be modified.

Plus précisément, l'invention est relative à un mannequin anthropomorphe comportant un buste caractérisé par le fait qu'il comporte :

  • des moyens de variations de volume de zones prédéterminées du mannequin,
  • des moyens de commande des moyens de variation de volume.
  • les moyens de variation de volume comportent, pour au moins une zone prédéterminée, des moyens d'expansion en volume de zones prédéterminées qui sont des poches préformées en matière molle déformables reliées à un ensemble pneumatique capable de délivrer de l'air comprimé permettant leur croissance ou décroissance.
  • les dites poches préformées sont protégées par un revêtement de protection contre le perçage par des aiguilles.
More specifically, the invention relates to an anthropomorphic manikin comprising a bust characterized in that it comprises:
  • means for varying the volume of predetermined areas of the manikin,
  • means for controlling the volume variation means.
  • the volume variation means comprise, for at least one predetermined zone, volume expansion means of predetermined zones which are preformed pockets of deformable soft material connected to a pneumatic assembly capable of delivering compressed air for their growth or decrease.
  • said preformed pockets are protected by a protective coating against drilling by needles.

Suivant un aspect avantageux, les moyens de commande sont configurés pour commander indépendamment les moyens de variation de volume d'au moins deux zones prédéterminées. Alors que l'état de la technique propose, au mieux, un changement de taille globale du buste d'un mannequin, l'invention offre une adaptation précise et totalement flexible. A cet effet, elle comporte des moyens de variation de volume à plusieurs zones prédéterminées. Ainsi, un réglage distinct est possible à différents endroits du mannequin.According to an advantageous aspect, the control means are configured to independently control the means for varying the volume of at least two predetermined zones. While the state of the art offers, at best, an overall size change of the bust of a manikin, the invention offers a precise and completely flexible adaptation. For this purpose, it comprises means for varying the volume at several predetermined zones. Thus, a separate adjustment is possible at different locations of the manikin.

Par ailleurs des moyens de commande contrôlent chaque moyens de variation de volume et, avantageusement, de manière indépendante pour au moins certains d'entre eux. Ainsi, le mannequin peut être conformé exactement à l'image de la personne. Chacune de ses mensurations peut être prise en compte.Moreover, control means control each volume variation means and, advantageously, independently for at least some of them. So, the dummy can be conformed exactly to the image of the person. Each of its measurements can be taken into account.

Avantageusement, les moyens de variation de volume étant localisés et espacés, ils sont de petites dimensions et ne réclament que de faibles puissances de commande. Par exemple, en cas de variation de volume par injection d'air, les poches employées sont réduites et se gonflent et dégonflent rapidement et avec de faibles pressions et/ou volume d'air.Advantageously, the volume variation means being located and spaced apart, they are small in size and only require low control powers. For example, in case of volume variation by air injection, the bags used are reduced and inflate and deflate quickly and with low pressures and / or volume of air.

La mise en forme du mannequin est donc très dynamique.The shaping of the manikin is therefore very dynamic.

Des caractéristiques supplémentaire optionnelles sont indiquées brièvement ci après ::

  • les moyens de commande sont configurés pour commander indépendamment les moyens de variation de volume de chacune des zones prédéterminées.
  • les zones prédéterminées sont espacées suivant la hauteur du mannequin.
  • au moins une des zones prédéterminées couvre l'intégralité de la périphérie d'une section du mannequin transversale à sa hauteur.
  • les moyens de variation de volume de ladite au moins une des zones prédéterminées comportent une poche de volume variable et continue ceinturant ladite au moins une des zones prédéterminées.
  • le revêtement de protection est métallique.
  • le revêtement de protection est du type cotte de mailles.
  • la cotte de mailles est du type à mailles plates se recouvrant partiellement.
  • les moyens de variation de volume comportent, pour au moins une zone prédéterminée, des moyens d'expansion en volume de zones prédéterminées qui sont des poches préformées en matière molle déformables reliées à un ensemble électrique capable de délivrer une intensité thermique permettant leur croissance ou décroissance.
  • les moyens de commande comportent une unité centrale.
  • l'unité centrale comporte un variateur de puissance pour les moyens de variation de volume de chacune des zones prédéterminées, les moyens de variation de puissance étant indépendants les uns des autres.
  • les zones prédéterminées comprennent au moins deux zones parmi : une zone de tour de cou, une zone de tour de dessous de poitrine, une zone de tour de poitrine, une zone de tour de taille, une zone de tour de petites hanches, une zone de tour de hanches, une zone de longueur d'épaule, une zone de carrure devant et dos, une zone de tour de biceps, une zone de tour de poignet, une zone de tour de cuisse, une zone de tour de mollet, une zone de tour de cheville.
  • il comporte des moyens d'élongation du buste.
  • il comporte au moins un membre parmi un bras et une jambe et des moyens d'élongation dudit au moins un membre.
  • les moyens d'élongation comportent au moins un vérin hydraulique ou pneumatique.
  • il comprend un bâti de pied réglable en hauteur.
  • le bâti de pied comprend un vérin de réglage relativement au sol.
  • il comporte une interface informatisée de commande.
Optional additional features are listed briefly below:
  • the control means are configured to independently control the volume variation means of each of the predetermined areas.
  • the predetermined areas are spaced according to the height of the manikin.
  • at least one of the predetermined areas covers the entire periphery of a section of the transverse dummy at its height.
  • the means for varying the volume of said at least one of the predetermined zones comprise a pocket of variable and continuous volume surrounding said at least one of the predetermined zones.
  • the protective coating is metallic.
  • the protective coating is of the chainmail type.
  • the chain mail is of the flat mesh type partially overlapping.
  • the volume variation means comprise, for at least one predetermined zone, volume expansion means of predetermined zones which are deformable soft preformed pouches connected to an electrical assembly capable of delivering a thermal intensity enabling their growth or decay. .
  • the control means comprise a central unit.
  • the central unit comprises a power variator for the volume variation means of each of the predetermined zones, the power variation means being independent of each other.
  • the predetermined areas comprise at least two of: a choker zone, a chest circumference zone, a chest zone, a waist circumference zone, a small hip circumference zone, a waist zone hip circumference, shoulder length area, front and back shoulder area, biceps turn zone, wrist circumference area, thigh turn zone, calf ankle turn zone.
  • it comprises means of elongation of the bust.
  • it comprises at least one member among an arm and a leg and means for elongating said at least one limb.
  • the elongation means comprise at least one hydraulic or pneumatic cylinder.
  • it includes a foot frame adjustable in height.
  • the foot frame comprises a control cylinder relative to the ground.
  • it has a computerized control interface.

L'objet de l'invention est donc un mannequin anthropomorphe composé d'un buste comprenant des moyens de variation de volume de zones prédéterminées, et des moyens de commande des moyens de variation de volume, les moyens de commande étant configurés pour commander indépendamment les moyens de variation de volume d'au moins deux zones prédéterminées ; dans lequel les moyens de variation de volume comportent, pour au moins une zone prédéterminée, des moyens d'expansion en volume de zones prédéterminées qui sont des poches préformées en matière molle déformables reliées à un ensemble pneumatique capable de délivrer de l'air comprimé permettant leur croissance ou décroissance caractérisé par le fait que les dites poches préformées sont protégées par un revêtement de protection contre le perçage par des aiguilles. Des modes de réalisation avantageux de ce mannequin anthropomorphe font l'objet des revendications dépendantes 2 à 18.The object of the invention is therefore an anthropomorphic manikin composed of a bust comprising means for varying the volume of predetermined zones, and means for controlling the volume variation means, the control means being configured to independently control the means for varying the volume of at least two predetermined zones; in which the volume variation means comprise, for at least one predetermined zone, volume expansion means of predetermined zones which are deformable soft preformed pouches connected to a pneumatic assembly capable of delivering compressed air allowing their growth or decay characterized by the fact that said preformed pockets are protected by a protective coating against drilling by needles. Advantageous embodiments of this anthropomorphous dummy are the subject of dependent claims 2 to 18.

Suivant un mode de réalisation, le mannequin est un mannequin anthropomorphe à croissance et décroissance continue et contrôlée. Le mannequin peut être monté sur un socle et est un assemblage d'au moins trois sections définies en un buste, un bras et une jambe composées de zones définies assujetties à l'expansion de la matière qui les compose en cet endroit, en volume (profondeur, longueur, largeur). Relié à un logiciel, le mannequin croît et décroît selon un tableau de mensurations validé par l'instructeur depuis un terminal informatisé.According to one embodiment, the manikin is an anthropomorphous manikin with continuous and controlled growth and decay. The manikin can be mounted on a pedestal and is an assembly of at least three sections defined in a bust, an arm and a leg composed of defined zones subject to the expansion of the material which composes them in this place, in volume ( depth, length, width). Linked to software, the manikin grows and decreases according to a table of measurements validated by the instructor from a computerized terminal.

Avantageusement, la variabilité de densité du mannequin au moyen d'un matériau composite à déformation continue et contrôlée offre la possibilité de modéliser en imagerie 3 dimensions (3D) et en représentation réelle simultanée au moyen d'une gradation uniformisée non seulement dans un cadre inter-entreprise et la possibilité d'une gradation libre dans une optique de confection en semi et sur-mesure comme cela est couramment pratiquée en haute couture mais aussi dans d'autres domaines d'application.Advantageously, the density variability of the dummy by means of a composite material with continuous and controlled deformation offers the possibility of modeling in 3D imaging and simultaneous real representation by means of a uniform gradation not only in an interstitial context. -company and the possibility of a free gradation with a view of making semi and made-to-measure as is commonly practiced in haute couture but also in other areas of application.

Le mannequin peut être composé d'une structure rigide en aluminium léger ou plastique rigide creux et recouvert en certains endroits (zones sujettes à expansion) de poches déformables reliées informatiquement à l'unité centrale et au logiciel permettant leur déformation. Ces poches sont par exemple fixées selon l'anatomie humaine pour reproduire la croissance et décroissance des muscles du corps humain.The manikin may be composed of a rigid structure of light aluminum or hollow rigid plastic and covered in some places (areas subject to expansion) of deformable pockets computer-linked to the central unit and the software to deform them. These pockets are for example fixed according to the human anatomy to reproduce the growth and decay of the muscles of the human body.

Les zones déformables sont optionnellement protégées par un revêtement type cotte de mailles évitant tout risque de perçage. La cotte de mailles ayant la propriété connue de s'adapter à des tailles différentes est suffisante de par son maillage fin pour arrêter les piqûres d'aiguilles et protéger l'enveloppe recouvrant les zones sujettes à déformation.The deformable zones are optionally protected by a coat type chainmail avoiding any risk of drilling. The chain mail having the known property of adapting to different sizes is sufficient because of its fine mesh to stop needlesticks and protect the envelope covering the areas subject to deformation.

Une peau de latex ou équivalente en matière synthétique recouvre avantageusement le tout afin de maintenir et d'assurer une cohésion à l'ensemble du mannequin.A latex skin or equivalent synthetic material advantageously covers the whole in order to maintain and ensure cohesion to the entire manikin.

En cas d'usure, perforation ou dégradation des poches internes fixées sur l'arcane intérieure du buste, on peut prévoir un système de remplacement des poches par un mécanisme d'accessibilité et de remplacement, soit partiel par le remplacement du matériau qui les compose, soit total par la mise en place d'une ou plusieurs nouvelles poches.In the event of wear, perforation or degradation of the internal pockets fixed on the inner arch of the bust, it is possible to provide a system of replacement of the pockets by an accessibility and replacement mechanism, or partially by the replacement of the material which composes them. , total by the establishment of one or more new pockets.

Avantageusement, la structure du buste est réalisée en matériau léger, indéformable de type aluminium ou plastique rigide creux.Advantageously, the structure of the bust is made of lightweight material, non-deformable type aluminum or hollow rigid plastic.

Le mannequin peut être recouvert en tout point d'un matériau souple et élastique imitant la texture humaine à savoir latex, silicone ou polyuréthane (non effritable/stabilisé) ou élastomère durable afin de permettre la déformation continue et contrôlée de ladite matière.The manikin can be covered in any point of a flexible and elastic material imitating the human texture namely latex, silicone or polyurethane (non-erodible / stabilized) or durable elastomer to allow the continuous and controlled deformation of said material.

Le mannequin comprend en outre éventuellement une interface tableau apte à être affichée sur le terminal instructeur pour fournir un moyen de saisie et d'enregistrement des données numériques. Il comprend un module de stockage d'une base de données, un module de gestion de la base de données, un module de traitement d'analyse structurale, un module de moyen de modifications virtuelles correspondant à des moyens réels.The manikin optionally further comprises a table interface adapted to be displayed on the instructor terminal to provide a means for entering and storing the digital data. It comprises a database storage module, a database management module, a structural analysis processing module, a virtual modification means module corresponding to real means.

Le système informatique de gradation peut comporter des moyens pour générer automatiquement des règles de gradation à partir d'un barème de mensuration type ou libre.The grading computer system may include means for automatically generating gradation rules from a standard or free measurement scale.

Les mesures sont par exemple soit:

  • celles correspondant aux mesures pratiquées en gradation dans le prêt-à-porter (c'est à dire varier du 34/36 au 46/48 ou jusqu'au 54 pour le marché des grandes tailles) selon le tableau de mesure standard définie par les organismes compétents et en vigueur.
  • soit celles de l'entreprise ayant son propre tableau de mesure paramétré.
  • soit d'être aux mensurations exactes d'une personne dans une logique de sur- mesure.
The measurements are for example either:
  • those corresponding to measurements made in gradation in ready-to-wear clothing (ie to vary from 34/36 to 46/48 or to 54 for the larger market) according to the standard measurement table defined by the competent bodies and in force.
  • those of the company having its own parameterized measuring table.
  • to be at the exact measurements of a person in a logic of tailor-made.

Les buts, objets et caractéristiques de l'invention apparaîtront plus clairement à la lecture de la description qui suit qui concerne des modes préférés de réalisation et qui est faite en référence aux dessins dans lesquels :

  • La figure 1 représente le mannequin vu de face et ses 3 sections A, B et C
  • La figure 2 représente le mannequin en coupe de face découpé en ses différentes parties reliées par des vérins.
  • La figure 3 représente le mannequin en coupe de face comprenant les zones sujettes à expansion
  • La figure 4 représente le mannequin en coupe de profil comprenant les zones sujettes à expansion.
  • La figure 5 représente le mannequin en coupe de dos comprenant les zones sujettes à expansion.
  • La figure 6 représente le système en coupe avec les points d'alimentation des différentes zones sujettes à expansion.
  • La figure 7 représente les zones sujettes à expansion protégées par une enveloppe en cotte de mailles (maillage à plat).
The objects, objects and features of the invention will appear more clearly on reading the description which follows which relates to preferred embodiments and which is made with reference to the drawings in which:
  • The figure 1 represents the mannequin seen from the front and its 3 sections A, B and C
  • The figure 2 represents the mannequin in front section cut into its different parts connected by jacks.
  • The figure 3 represents the mannequin in front section including areas subject to expansion
  • The figure 4 represents the mannequin in profile section including areas subject to expansion.
  • The figure 5 represents the manikin in back cut including areas prone to expansion.
  • The figure 6 represents the sectional system with the feeding points of the different areas subject to expansion.
  • The figure 7 represents areas subject to expansion protected by a mesh coat (flat mesh).

En référence à la figure 1, le mannequin est ici composé d'un squelette/ armature rigide représentant un buste (A), un bras (B) et une jambe (C). Le buste, le bras et la jambe peuvent être obtenus par sculpture ou moulage dans un matériau de type plastique ou aluminium rigide. Ces éléments fixes et variables comportent des sections spécifiques correspondant à des zones préalablement définies où la matière qui les compose subit une expansion en volume (profondeur, longueur, largeur). Sur le squelette, des points d'attaches sont pratiqués aux endroits où les zones préalablement citées puissent subir une déformation. Sur ces points d'attaches sont fixés des câbles électriques qui sont raccordés aux zones de déformation et permettent leur expansion par l'intermédiaire d'un logiciel qui les télécommande.With reference to the figure 1 , the manikin is here composed of a skeleton / rigid frame representing a bust (A), an arm (B) and a leg (C). The bust, the arm and the leg can be obtained by sculpture or molding in a material plastic type or rigid aluminum. These fixed and variable elements have specific sections corresponding to previously defined zones where the material that composes them expands in volume (depth, length, width). On the skeleton, points of attachment are practiced in places where the previously mentioned areas can undergo deformation. On these points of attachment are attached electrical cables that are connected to the deformation zones and allow their expansion via a software that remote control.

Le mannequin dans son ensemble (buste/ bras/ jambe) est monté et articulé sur une structure tubulaire réglable en hauteur porteuse fixée à un bâti de pied. Il est fixé sur un bâti de pied (1) réglable en hauteur par un système de serrage à vis (2) mais peut également être retiré/ dévissé de ce bâti au niveau de l'entrejambe pour les besoins de fabrication de vêtements.The dummy as a whole (bust / arm / leg) is mounted and articulated on an adjustable tubular height structure carrier attached to a foot frame. It is fixed on a foot frame (1) adjustable in height by a screw clamping system (2) but can also be removed / unscrewed from this frame at the crotch for garment manufacturing needs.

Selon la figure 2, le mannequin est représenté en ses différentes parties qui constituent son squelette interne. Les armatures du squelette constituant les sections buste (A), bras (B) et jambe (C) sont moulées en matériaux de type plastique rigide creux ou aluminium de type rigide creux.According to figure 2 , the manikin is represented in its different parts which constitute its internal skeleton. The skeletal armatures constituting the bust (A), arm (B) and leg (C) sections are molded of hollow rigid plastic or hollow rigid type aluminum materials.

Le bras est relié dans sa partie supérieure au buste par l'intermédiaire d'une rotule multidirectionnelle(6) permettant son balancement manuel de manière latérale d'avant en arrière mais également de haut en bas.The arm is connected in its upper part to the bust by means of a multidirectional kneecap (6) allowing its manual swing backwards and forwards but also from top to bottom.

Une partie de bras supérieure et une partie de bras inférieure sont reliées l'une à l'autre par une articulation (7). La position des axes du joint coudé est telle que lorsque la partie de bras inférieure est tournée vers la position pliée, les matières étrangères constituant le revêtement externe du mannequin sont empêchées d'être prises en sandwich et déformées entre les parties de bras dans un emplacement en devant du joint coudé. Il en est de même pour les zones sujettes à déformation volumétriques.An upper arm portion and a lower arm portion are connected to each other by a hinge (7). The position of the axes of the bent joint is such that when the lower arm portion is turned to the folded position, foreign matter constituting the outer coating of the manikin is prevented from being sandwiched and deformed between the arm portions in a location in front of the elbow joint. It is the same for areas subject to volumetric deformation.

Des vérins de type hydraulique situés à différents niveaux permettent une croissance/ décroissance mesurée en fonction de la taille souhaitée et ajustable par le logiciel.Hydraulic type cylinders at different levels allow a growth / decay measured according to the desired size and adjustable by the software.

Le buste est doté d'un logement (D) ou l'on peut placer une unité informatique (11) comprenant une interface de commande (12) pouvant commander d'une part les vérins hydrauliques (1,3,8,9) permettant l'allongement ou le rétrécissement des membres ainsi que la position du mannequin par rapport au sol.The bust is provided with a housing (D) where a computer unit (11) can be placed comprising a control interface (12) that can control on the one hand the hydraulic cylinders (1,3,8,9) allowing the lengthening or narrowing of the limbs and the position of the manikin relative to the ground.

Le vérin (8) permet l'allongement au niveau de l'avant bras entre le poignet et le coude.The cylinder (8) allows the elongation at the forearm between the wrist and the elbow.

Le vérin (3) permet l'allongement du buste au niveau de la taille. Il est fixé entre deux plaques transversales (4,5) situées sur la surface supérieure de la partie basse du mannequin et une située à l'intérieur de la partie haute du buste représentant également la base de la loge.The jack (3) allows the lengthening of the bust at the waist. It is attached between two transverse plates (4,5) located on the upper surface of the lower part of the manikin and one located inside the upper part of the bust also representing the base of the box.

Le vérin (9) se situe au niveau de la jambe du mannequin, entre la cuisse et le genou et permet l'allongement de celle-ci.The jack (9) is located at the level of the leg of the manikin, between the thigh and the knee and allows the elongation thereof.

Le vérin (1) permet le positionnement du mannequin par rapport au sol.The cylinder (1) allows the positioning of the manikin relative to the ground.

Le bras est articulé au niveau de l'épaule par un système de rotule multidirectionnelle (6). L'articulation du coude (7a) s'effectue au moyen d'une attache emboitant la partie supérieure du bras et la partie inférieure fixée au moyen d'une vis permettant l'articulation entre les deux parties. Ces deux articulations sont manuelles et contribuent à faciliter la manipulation du membre lors de la confection de vêtements.The arm is articulated at the shoulder by a multidirectional ball joint system (6). The articulation of the elbow (7a) is effected by means of a clip engaging the upper part of the arm and the lower part fixed by means of a screw allowing the articulation between the two parts. These two joints are manual and help to facilitate the handling of the member during the making of clothing.

Il en sera de même pour l'articulation de la jambe située au dessous du genou (7b).It will be the same for the articulation of the leg located below the knee (7b).

Selon les figures 3, 4 et 5, le mannequin est représenté de face, de dos et de côté. Il est doté d'une armature fixe représentant un corps aux mensurations minimales (correspondant à une taille 34) découpé en sections de différentes zones spécifiques distinctes, avantageusement espacées selon la hauteur du mannequin et sujettes à déformation par exemple:

  • un buste (A) découpé en 8 zones : tour de cou (13), tour dessous poitrine (14), tour de poitrine(15), tour de taille(16), tour petites hanches(17), tour de hanches(18), longueur épaule(19), carrure devant et dos(20),
  • un bras (B) découpé en différentes zones spécifiques à savoir: longueur de bras(8), tour de biceps(21), tour de poignet(22),
  • une jambe (C) découpée en différentes zones spécifiques à savoir: longueur de jambe(9), tour de cuisse(23), tour de mollet (24), tour de cheville(25).
According to figures 3 , 4 and 5 , the manikin is represented front, back and side. It is provided with a fixed armature representing a body with minimum measurements (corresponding to a size 34) cut into sections of different distinct specific zones, advantageously spaced according to the height of the manikin and subject to deformation, for example:
  • a bust (A) cut into 8 zones: choker (13), bust (14), bust (15), waist (16), hips (17), hips (18) ), shoulder length (19), middle front and back (20),
  • an arm (B) cut into different specific areas, namely: arm length (8), biceps (21), wrist (22),
  • a leg (C) cut into different specific zones, namely leg length (9), thigh circumference (23), calf circumference (24), ankle circumference (25).

Les différentes sections précitées sont constituées individuellement et sont avantageusement pourvues :

  • soit d'un matériau composite à déformation continue et contrôlée constituées par une couche active reliée à au moins une source générant une variation de température réglable et par une couche inactive en un matériau conducteur thermique qui sont assemblées entre elles et permettent la déformation et l'expansion de la couche inactive par l'intermédiaire de la couche active le tout relié à un logiciel.
  • soit par des poches préformées en matière molle déformables reliées par l'intermédiaire de flexibles alimentées par un ensemble pneumatique capable de délivrer de l'air comprimé pour appliquer une contrainte permettant leur croissance ou décroissance relié à un ensemble électronique et de traitement de donnés télécommandé par un logiciel.
  • soit par tout autre système permettant un accroissement et décroissement des poches internes et de l'enveloppe externe de façon préférentielle homothétique et fiable.
The various sections mentioned above are individually constituted and are advantageously provided with:
  • or of a composite material with continuous and controlled deformation constituted by an active layer connected to at least one source generating an adjustable temperature variation and by an inactive layer of a thermal conductive material which are assembled together and allow deformation and expansion of the inactive layer via the active layer all connected to software.
  • either by preformed pouches of deformable soft material connected by means of hoses fed by a pneumatic assembly capable of delivering compressed air to apply a constraint enabling them to growth or decay connected to an electronic assembly and data processing remotely controlled by software.
  • or by any other system allowing an increase and decrease of the internal pockets and the outer envelope preferably homothetic and reliable.

Les dimensions de tous les éléments sont à déterminer en fonction des dimensions du squelette de base qui doit être reproduit par moulage et qui représente une taille 34.The dimensions of all the elements are to be determined according to the dimensions of the basic skeleton which must be reproduced by molding and which represents a size 34.

Selon la figure 6, chacune de ces zones est reliée à une unité centrale (11) avec interface de commande (12) idéalement placée dans la loge du thorax (d). Cette unité centrale travaille à l'aide de données obtenues à partir d'un logiciel spécifique où sont enregistrées les variations de taille humaine de chaque zone (26). L'unité de contrôle doit commander une puissance variée à l'aide d'un variateur de puissance (27) pour chacune de ces zones de façon à ce qu'elles puissent fonctionner indépendamment les unes des autres.According to figure 6 each of these zones is connected to a central unit (11) with control interface (12) ideally located in the chest compartment (d). This central unit works with data obtained from a specific software that records the human size variations of each zone (26). The control unit must control a varied power by means of a power variator (27) for each of these areas so that they can operate independently of each other.

Dans cet exemple, ce système est équipé d'un cadre de saisie d'information (26) qui renseigne l'unité centrale sur les commandes entrées par l'utilisateur déterminant les élongations en taille et l'expansion en volume de chaque zone, ce qui permet au dispositif de déterminer après le calcul les forces électriques/ mécaniques ou par un système véhiculant de l'air comprimé à mettre en oeuvre pour l'augmentation ou la diminution desdites zones.In this example, this system is equipped with an information entry frame (26) which informs the central unit on the commands entered by the user determining the size elongations and the volume expansion of each zone. which allows the device to determine after calculation the electric / mechanical forces or by a system carrying compressed air to implement for the increase or decrease of said zones.

Selon la figure 7, un exemple de montage de la zone à expansion est présenté exposant le principe de fonctionnement applicable à l'ensemble du squelette. Le dispositif comporte une reproduction de l'armature du squelette moulé en plastique rigide creux (28) lequel est traversé par un câble électrique (29) relié à la zone expansible (30) d'une part, et au terminal instructeur (11) d'autre part. La zone expansible est fixée à l'armature par un système d'attache cavalière (31) permettant sa tenue sur le squelette.According to figure 7 , an example of mounting the expansion zone is presented explaining the operating principle applicable to the entire skeleton. The device comprises a reproduction of the reinforcement of the hollow rigid plastic molded skeleton (28) which is traversed by an electric cable (29) connected to the expandable zone (30) on the one hand, and to the instructor terminal (11) on the other hand. The expandable zone is fixed to the frame by a cavalier attachment system (31) allowing it to be held on the skeleton.

La zone de déformation est protégée, préferentiellement sur toute sa surface, par un revêtement de protection dont la nature est choisie pour résister au perçage par des aiguilles de couture. Un revêtement métallique laissant une liberté de déformation élastique donne satisfaction.The deformation zone is protected, preferably over its entire surface, by a protective coating whose nature is chosen to withstand drilling by sewing needles. A metal coating leaving a freedom of elastic deformation gives satisfaction.

Il peut aussi être réalisé par une cotte de mailles (32) (figure 7) (avantageusement maillage plat) qui peut être réalisée en matériau divers et permet ainsi de suivre l'évolution de la déformation de la zone tout en la protégeant des éventuels coups d'aiguilles qui pourraient la percer dans le cas où ces zones sont constituées d'air ou déformer la matière dans le cas où ces zones sont en matériau à mémoire de forme. Cette cotte de mailles est fixée sur l'armature par l'intermédiaire de points d'attaches (33). Par maillage plat, on entend qu'au moins une partie des mailles sont constituées de petites plaques, généralement rectangulaires. Préférentiellement, ces mailles plates se recouvrent partiellement comme dans le cas de la figure 7. Elles sont liées dans les zones de recouvrement.It can also be realized by a chain mail (32) ( figure 7 ) (advantageously flat mesh) which can be made of various material and thus makes it possible to follow the evolution of the deformation of the zone while protecting it from any needle shots which could pierce it in the case where these zones consist of air or deform the material in the case where these areas are in shape memory material. This coat of mesh is fixed on the frame by means of attachment points (33). By flat mesh, it is meant that at least a portion of the meshes consist of small plates, generally rectangular. Preferably, these flat meshes overlap partially as in the case of the figure 7 . They are linked in the recovery zones.

L'ensemble du squelette est éventuellement recouvert par une peau de latex ou équivalente en matière synthétique(34) d'épaisseur variable.The entire skeleton is optionally covered by a latex skin or equivalent synthetic material (34) of varying thickness.

L'application première du mannequin anthropomorphe selon l'invention est de permettre d'avoir un buste sur lequel l'homme de métier travaille selon les mensurations exigées dans une logique de prêt-à-porter et/ou de haute couture, sur mesure.The primary application of the anthropomorphic dummy according to the invention is to allow to have a bust on which the skilled person works according to the measurements required in a logic of ready-to-wear and / or couture, tailor-made.

Une nouveauté réside dans le mécanisme technique et informatique de gonflage de zones ciblées du mannequin correspondant aux prises de mesure de tailles existantes. Il s'agit d'un dispositif appliqué au mannequin de couture de plusieurs volumes associés mais indépendants les uns des autres dont les dimensions sont télécommandées par un logiciel. Ainsi, le mannequin selon l'invention peut être un mannequin de couture pour femme mais peut également être appliqué à la réalisation d'un mannequin homme ou d'un mannequin enfant et de mannequin grande taille.A novelty lies in the technical and computer mechanism of inflation of targeted areas of the manikin corresponding to existing measurements of sizes. It is a device applied to the sewing dummy of several volumes associated but independent of each other whose dimensions are remotely controlled by software. Thus, the dummy according to the invention may be a women's seam dummy but may also be applied to the production of a male mannequin or a child dummy and large mannequin.

Le mannequin selon l'invention permet d'éviter le coût et le stockage de différents bustes en différentes tailles, selon la coutume dans le secteur de l'habillement.The manikin according to the invention makes it possible to avoid the cost and the storage of different busts in different sizes, according to the custom in the clothing sector.

Le mannequin selon l'invention permet de réduire les opérations de retouches, de modifications d'une toile et/ou d'un prototype.The manikin according to the invention makes it possible to reduce the operations of retouching, of modifications of a canvas and / or of a prototype.

Notamment, cela peut aller jusqu'à réduire voire supprimer les risques d'échec d'une gradation impropre et/ou d'un prototype.In particular, this can go as far as reducing or even eliminating the risks of failure of an unsuitable gradation and / or of a prototype.

Le mannequin selon l'invention permet de réduire les coûts de recours à un mannequin-cabine puisque le vêtement posé sur le mannequin, objet de l'invention, sera aux dimensions du vêtement.The manikin according to the invention makes it possible to reduce the costs of using a dummy-booth since the garment placed on the dummy, which is the subject of the invention, will be the size of the garment.

Le mannequin offre une sécurité et une fiabilité technique sans précédent par son rapport d'homothétie prédéterminé entre la taille voulue et le mannequin. En effet, il est courant de constater que les modélistes se plaignent que plusieurs modèles identiques de mannequin d'une même société présentent des différences de mesures.The manikin offers unprecedented safety and technical reliability through its predetermined homothetic ratio between the desired size and the manikin. Indeed, it is common to note that the modelers complain that several identical models of manikins of the same company present differences in measurements.

Le mannequin offre également une facilité technique et d'usage à l'homme de métier dans la mesure où il devient la base unique de son travail pour la mise au point d'un vêtement. Du début à la fin du processus de production, il peut retrouver dans sa base de données, le tableau de mesure du modèle souhaité et le valider au réel par l'essayage sur le mannequin adapté aux exactes mesures du vêtement. Cela élimine la contrainte du manque de fiabilité de l'essayage sur mannequin vivant qui n'a jamais les mesures exactes pour le vêtement. Cela permet un gain de temps dans la mesure où l'on supprime les longues périodes d'essayage sur mannequin vivant qui doivent en plus être obligatoirement revalidées sur mannequins de bois. A la simplification technique, s'ajoute donc une optimisation du temps travail.The manikin also offers technical and practical ease to the skilled person as he becomes the sole basis of his work for the development of a clothing. From the beginning to the end of the production process, he can find in his database, the measurement table of the desired model and validate it in real life by fitting on the manikin adapted to the exact measurements of the garment. This eliminates the unreliable constraint of living dummy fitting that never has the exact measurements for the garment. This saves time by eliminating long periods of fitting on a live dummy, which must also be revalidated on wooden dummies. In addition to technical simplification, there is also an optimization of working time.

Le mannequin, objet de l'invention, permet également l'accélération du processus de production: optimisation de la gestion temporelle et financière de la production.The manikin, object of the invention, also allows the acceleration of the production process: optimization of the temporal and financial management of production.

Il assure incontestablement un gain financier par la suppression de coût fixe de mannequin vivant et la diminution d'heures de travail facturées des techniciens.It undoubtedly ensures a financial gain by the removal of fixed cost of live dummy and the reduction of invoiced hours of technicians.

L'expansion de ces différentes zones permet un modélisme en 3D supprimant les étapes d'essayage sur mannequin de bois et mannequin vivant, réalisant un gain temporel conséquent et un gain financier par l'optimisation en une seule et même étape de la phase fondamentale de l'essayage/ajustement validant la toile et/ou le prototype nécessitant généralement en interne et en externe dans le cadre de la sous-traitance, au moins 7 étapes jusqu'à l'obtention du produit final.The expansion of these different zones allows a 3D modeling eliminating the steps of fitting on wooden dummy and living dummy, realizing a consequent temporal gain and a financial gain by the optimization in one and the same step of the fundamental phase of the fitting / fitting validating the fabric and / or the prototype generally requiring internally and externally within the framework of the subcontracting, at least 7 steps until obtaining the final product.

Le mannequin, objet de l'invention, permet grâce à sa modélisation en 3D et au réel, une double application, à la fois dans l'industrie du prêt-à-porter et dans la haute couture.The model, object of the invention, thanks to its 3D modeling and real, a dual application, both in the ready-to-wear and haute couture industry.

Le système de gonflage du mannequin selon les mesures volumétriques saisies dans la base de données du logiciel assure une variabilité de l'offre grâce à une utilisation plurielle selon les besoins types de chaque secteur et de chaque société.The inflator system of the manikin according to volumetric measurements entered in the software database ensures a variability of the offer through a use plural according to the standard needs of each sector and each society.

Dans une optique de sur-mesure/ haute couture, cela permet de créer à distance, grâce au processus de modélisation en 3D et au réel, pour un client, un vêtement aux mesures exactes sans avoir besoin de sa présence physique pour les essayages, puisque le vêtement réalisé sera effectué par rapport au mannequin, objet de la présente demande de brevet, ayant les mensurations exactes du client et non sur un mannequin standard sans rapport avec l'anatomie de ce dernier. L'homme de métier pourra ainsi aisément retrouver les mesures de son client grâce au logiciel et procéder aux essayages sur son mannequin de façon plus fiable, lui assurant une réalisation plus efficace.In a tailor-made / haute couture approach, this allows to create remotely, thanks to the 3D modeling process and to the real, for a customer, a garment with exact measurements without needing his physical presence for fittings, since the garment made will be made with respect to the dummy, subject of the present patent application, having the exact measurements of the client and not a standard manikin unrelated to the anatomy of the latter. The skilled person can easily find the measures of his client through the software and make fitting on his mannequin more reliably, ensuring a more effective realization.

L'invention permet dans le secteur de l'industrie du prêt-à-porter d'optimiser la production de masse.The invention makes it possible in the sector of the ready-to-wear industry to optimize mass production.

Le mannequin, objet de l'invention, assure une harmonisation inter-entreprise des bases et outils techniques de travail et optimise, par là, la gestion temporelle et financière du processus de production.The manikin, object of the invention, ensures inter-company harmonization of the bases and technical tools of work and optimizes, thereby, the temporal and financial management of the production process.

Le mannequin permet de supprimer les problèmes de cohérence de gradation et de modélisme du prototype dans une logique de production externalisée comme il est aujourd'hui majoritairement pratiqué dans le prêt-à-porter de masse et de luxe, dans la mesure où à chaque extrémité de la chaîne, les modélismes sont validés sur cette même structure de buste thermo-déformable aux mesures exactes souhaitées par la société donneuse d'ordre.The manikin allows to eliminate the problems of coherence of gradation and modelism of the prototype in a logic of outsourced production as it is today predominantly practiced in the ready-to-wear mass and luxury, insofar as at each end in the chain, the models are validated on this same thermo-deformable bust structure with the exact measurements desired by the ordering company.

En effet chaque société productrice de mannequins produit son mannequin avec des mensurations et une densité propre ne permettant pas un rendu du calage de la toile et de l'essayage du prototype identique selon les sociétés donneuses d'ordre et les sociétés spécialisées dans la réalisation de prototype mais surtout les usines de fabrication, car ils n'ont généralement pas les mêmes mannequins.In fact, every mannequin producing company produces his manikin with measurements and a specific density that does not allow a rendering of the rigging of the canvas and the fitting of the identical prototype according to the ordering companies and companies specializing in prototype production but especially manufacturing plants, because they do not usually have the same models.

Il s'opère ainsi une uniformisation des données sur buste aux densités identiques permettant d'accélérer le processus de validation et d'harmonisation des modèles souhaités entre les différentes chaînes d'opérateurs économiques.Thus, a standardization of data on bust with identical densities makes it possible to accelerate the process of validation and harmonization of the desired models between the different chains of economic operators.

Le mannequin offre de surcroît la possibilité d'une mise en place optimale de production segmentale dans une stratégie économique globale-locale.In addition, the manikin offers the possibility of an optimal implementation of segmental production in a global-local economic strategy.

L'expansion de ces différentes zones permet d'effectuer des gradations cibles c'est à dire des gradations à partir des bases de données internationales enregistrées sur le logiciel et utilisées selon les besoins de l'entreprise.The expansion of these different zones makes it possible to carry out target gradations, ie gradations from the international databases recorded on the software and used according to the needs of the company.

La modélisation en 3D sur le mannequin offre dans une logique de production mondialisée la possibilité à une entreprise de mettre en place une production aux morphologies de chaque marché ou segment de marché. Le logiciel incluant les chartes de mesures de différents pays ou continents permet ainsi à une société de confection française d'offrir une production adaptée aux mensurations du marché (pour les femmes chinoises, par exemple).3D modeling on the manikin offers in a logic of globalized production the possibility to a company to set up a production with the morphologies of each market or market segment. Software including measurement charts from different countries or continents allows a French clothing company to offer a production adapted to market measurements (for Chinese women, for example).

Les sociétés peuvent donc amorcer une stratégie de production globale-locale, clef du succès et de la viabilité économique aujourd'hui.Companies can therefore start a global-local production strategy that is key to success and economic viability today.

Selon une variante, non illustrée, le mannequin, objet de l'invention peut permettre une application en tant que mannequin vitrine.According to a variant, not illustrated, the manikin object of the invention may allow application as a showcase mannequin.

En effet, outre son application en amont dans la chaîne de production, une utilisation optimale en aval dans les lieux de vente est envisagée par l'ajout au mannequin précité d'un bras et d'une jambe ainsi qu'une tête à visage humain. Grâce à la flexibilité des bras et des jambes, le mannequin de vitrine présente une visualisation avantageuse du produit final préservant le vêtement mis en valeur ainsi qu'une présentation toujours normée à la taille du produit exposé. D'une part, la possibilité d'exposition d'un produit dans une taille autre que le standard 36/38 réduisant de fait le pouvoir d'identification du consommateur final à cette taille standard minimum et lui permettant ainsi de se représenter habillé du produit présenté dans sa propre taille, donc proche de la réalité et d'autre part le réajustage manuel à l'aide d'épingles d'un modèle non adapté au mannequin type usuellement utilisé en vitrine constituent indubitablement des avantages pratiques, économiques et commerciaux non négligeables dans le cadre d'une force de vente optimisée où le rendu final du vêtement permet à la clientèle de saisir immédiatement l'intérêt du produit et la réalité de son rendu.Indeed, in addition to its upstream application in the production line, an optimal downstream use in sales places is envisaged by adding to the aforementioned mannequin an arm and a leg as well as a head with a human face. . Thanks to the Flexibility of the arms and legs, the window mannequin presents an advantageous visualization of the final product preserving the highlighted garment as well as a presentation always standardized to the size of the exposed product. On the one hand, the possibility of exposure of a product in a size other than the standard 36/38 reducing the power of identification of the final consumer to this minimum standard size and thus allowing him to represent himself dressed of the product presented in its own size, so close to reality and secondly the manual readjustment using pins of a model not adapted to the typical manikin usually used in showcase undoubtedly constitute practical, economic and commercial advantages not insignificant as part of an optimized sales force where the final rendering of the garment allows the customer to immediately grasp the interest of the product and the reality of its rendering.

De plus, le dispositif peut être appliqué dans des domaines autres que l'industrie textile : à titre d'exemple non limitatif, ce dispositif appliqué au mannequin de couture de plusieurs volumes associés mais indépendants les uns des autres dont les dimensions seront télécommandées par un logiciel adapté pourra être utilisé notamment dans différentes applications soit comme mannequin pour les études de médecine, soit comme mannequin pour la chirurgie esthétique, soit comme mannequin pour exercices de sauvetage, pompiers, soit comme mannequin crash test automobiles, soit comme mannequin pour les tests de résistance (chutes, sports,...)In addition, the device can be applied in fields other than the textile industry: by way of non-limiting example, this device applied to the sewing mannequin of several volumes associated but independent of each other whose dimensions will be remote controlled by a Adapted software can be used especially in different applications either as a manikin for medical studies, or as a manikin for cosmetic surgery, or as a manikin for rescue exercises, firefighters, or as an automobile crash test mannequin, or as a model for resistance (falls, sports, ...)

Le mannequin selon l'invention est particulièrement destiné à la reproduction des tailles réelles ou en 3D à partir de données enregistrées de tailles humaines standard pour la confection en prêt-à-porter, en semi ou sur mesure sur un mannequin unique.The manikin according to the invention is particularly intended for the reproduction of real or 3D sizes from recorded data of standard human sizes for making ready-to-wear, semi or customized on a single manikin.

Claims (18)

  1. An anthropomorphic mannequin comprising a bust and:
    - means for varying the volume of predetermined areas of the mannequin,
    - means for controlling the volume-varying means, with the control means being so configured as to independently control the volume-varying means of at least two predetermined areas;
    wherein the volume-varying means comprise, for at least one predetermined area, means for expanding the volume (13 to 25) of predetermined areas which are pre-formed pockets made of deformable soft material, connected to a pneumatic assembly able to supply compressed air for the increasing or decreasing thereof, characterized in that said pre-formed pockets are protected by a protective coating against the piercing thereof by needles.
  2. A mannequin according to claim 1, wherein the control means are so configured as to independently control the means for varying the volume of each of the predetermined areas.
  3. A mannequin according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the predetermined areas are spaced along the height of the mannequin.
  4. A mannequin according to one of the preceding claims, wherein at least one of the predetermined areas covers the entire periphery of a section of the mannequin transversely to the height thereof.
  5. A mannequin according to the preceding claim, wherein the means for varying the volume of said at least one of the predetermined areas comprise a continuous pocket having a variable volume and surrounding said at least one of the predetermined areas.
  6. A mannequin according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the protective coating is metallic.
  7. A mannequin according to one of claims 1 or 6, wherein the protective coating is of the chain-mail type.
  8. A mannequin according to the preceding claim, wherein the chain-mail is of the plated mail type, with the plated mails partially overlapping.
  9. A mannequin according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the volume-varying means comprise, for at least one predetermined area, means for expanding the volume (13 to 25) of predetermined areas which are pre-formed pockets made of deformable soft material connected to an electrical assembly able to supply a thermal intensity enabling the increase or the decrease thereof.
  10. A mannequin according to one of the preceding claims, with the control means comprising a central unit (1).
  11. A mannequin according to the preceding claim, wherein the central unit (1) comprises a power regulator (27) for the means for varying the volume of each of the predetermined areas, with the power regulation means being independent of each other.
  12. A mannequin according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the predetermined areas comprise at least two zones among: a neck girth area (13), an underbust girth area (14), a bust girth area (15), a waist girth area (16), a small hip girth area (17), a hip girth area (18), a shoulder length area (19), a front and back cross area (20), a biceps girth area (21), a wrist girth area (22), a thigh girth area (23), a calf girth area (24), an ankle girth area (25).
  13. A mannequin according to one of the preceding claims, comprising means for stretching the bust (3).
  14. A mannequin according to one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one limb among an arm and a leg and means for stretching said at least one limb.
  15. A mannequin according to one of the preceding two claims, wherein the stretching means comprise at least one hydraulic or pneumatic cylinder.
  16. A mannequin according to one of the preceding claims, comprising a stand fixture (1) adjustable in height.
  17. A mannequin according to the preceding claim, wherein the stand fixture (1) comprises a cylinder enabling adjustment relative to the ground.
  18. A mannequin according to one of the preceding claims, comprising a computer control interface.
EP11724275.0A 2010-05-11 2011-05-10 Anthropomorphic mannequin Active EP2568835B1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR1002008A FR2959913B1 (en) 2010-05-11 2010-05-11 ANTHROPOMORPHIC MANNEQUIN EQUIPPED WITH MEANS FOR MODIFYING THE SIZE AND VOLUME OF PREDETERMINED AREAS
PCT/FR2011/000287 WO2011141646A1 (en) 2010-05-11 2011-05-10 Anthropomorphic mannequin

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EP2568835A1 EP2568835A1 (en) 2013-03-20
EP2568835B1 true EP2568835B1 (en) 2015-08-26

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CN109397312A (en) * 2018-11-30 2019-03-01 何泽熹 A kind of wear robot on probation
KR102177012B1 (en) * 2020-03-04 2020-11-10 임동현 Baby carrier bouncer
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CN109397312A (en) * 2018-11-30 2019-03-01 何泽熹 A kind of wear robot on probation
US11604206B2 (en) 2019-03-25 2023-03-14 Nike, Inc. Support garment testing system
US12000856B2 (en) 2019-03-25 2024-06-04 Nike, Inc. Support garment testing system
KR102177012B1 (en) * 2020-03-04 2020-11-10 임동현 Baby carrier bouncer

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ES2554495T3 (en) 2015-12-21
FR2959913B1 (en) 2013-07-19
PT2568835E (en) 2015-12-09
WO2011141646A1 (en) 2011-11-17
FR2959913A1 (en) 2011-11-18

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