EP2565312B1 - Fixing insert - Google Patents

Description

The invention relates to a fixation insert, in particular usable as Frontfixiereinlage in the textile industry.

Fixiereinlagen are the invisible framework of the clothing. They ensure correct fits and optimal comfort. Depending on the application, you can improve processability, increase functionality and stabilize clothing.

Frontfixiereinlagen serve for large-area reinforcement of the front part of clothing parts. They consist of a carrier layer and an adhesive layer applied thereto with hot melt adhesives. The coated side is laminated in the course of the production of clothing parts on the front part of the garment part in order to stabilize the front part of the garment and to ensure the dimensional stability.

Particularly demanding and demanding are the requirements for front fixation inserts in the field of men's clothing, especially for suits and jackets. This relates in particular to the carrier layer of the fixation insert itself, which must meet a variety of requirements.

Essential requirements for the carrier layer are: textile pleasant grip, very good reinforcing properties to retain the shape, high volume at low weight and high elasticity especially in weft direction. A textile and pleasant grip is a basic requirement for processing in a high-quality garment.

Good reinforcement properties of the fixation insert are particularly important in men's clothing, since they are often formal parts such as suits. Especially with the large clothing sizes in men's clothing must continue to be sufficient level and dimensional stability to ensure the correct appearance of the garment.

Also, high volume of fuser is particularly important for menswear pieces very important, since the inner construction of the suit can consist of up to 30 individual parts and the individual components of the construction must not be visible on the outside of the garment on the outer fabric. The fuser must therefore have a high volume to reliably prevent these marks on the outside.

Modern outer fabrics are usually elastic in at least one direction, often even bi-elastic. This creates high wearing comfort and enables body-hugging cuts of the clothing part. A high elasticity of the fixation inserts allows the fixation insert to adapt to as many outer materials as possible.
Since the outer fabrics themselves are getting lighter, a low weight of the fixation is now of enormous importance. In addition, a lower weight means less use of material and thus lower costs of fixation.

As a carrier material for Frontfixiereinlagen in men's clothing today almost exclusively woven or knitted fabrics are used. These woven and knitted fabrics consist predominantly or exclusively of textured polyester filaments which are arranged in warp and weft yarns. These fabrics and knits offer good reinforcing properties, high volume and good elasticity due to the crimping of the textured yarns and corresponding weave construction. The coating of these carrier layers with the adhesive coating is carried out using the conventional coating methods, but in particular with double-point coating methods such as the point trickle method.

The weight of the woven and knitted fabric is usually 50 g / m ² - 100 g / m ² . Easy to handle, these products are accepted in the market. However, because of the textured filaments, there are no fiber ends on the surface of the fuser liners that could provide a soft and textile feel, the handle feel of these fabrics and knits is rather blunt and synthetic by design.

Several attempts have been made to eliminate these disadvantages, as an example DE 196 44 111 or DE 199 04 265 described. However, none of these procedures has really been successful on the market.

Another disadvantage of the woven and knitted fabrics is that the textured polyester yarns used are made from virgin PES chips. Thus, the use of recycled material as a sustainable resource conservation measure is not possible. In the future, there will also be cost penalties for the use of Virgin PES material.

In addition, the processes of weaving and knitting as a method for producing a textile fabric are comparatively labor-intensive.

By contrast, the production of a non-woven fuser is significantly more efficient and less labor-intensive. However, fuser pads made of nonwoven webs that are made of fibers rather than yarns have not been previously considered for use in reinforcing the front of garments, especially garments in men's clothing.

The carrier layers of nonwoven fabric are usually produced by the thermal calendering process (Point Seal = PS process) and find especially in small parts, such as edge and seam hedges, as waistband or for reinforcing collars and sleeves application.

Another method for producing fixation pads with carrier layers of nonwoven fabric is for example from DE 10 2009 010 995 A1 , of the EP 2 207 926 B1 as well as the WO 2009/059801 A1 known. In the case of the fixation inserts described in these documents, the binder is applied to bind the nonwoven fabric and the adhesive mass in one work step. Here, a binder / polymer particle dispersion is applied to a carrier layer based on a weakly bonded nonwoven fabric or batt. The polymer particles are the adhesive. The dispersion is designed so that the polymer particles remain on the surface of the batt while the binder penetrates into the surface of the batt. A subsequent to the application of the dispersion temperature treatment is used to dry the batt, for crosslinking the binder and Ansintem the adhesive polymer particles. According to the publications, the dispersion preferably applied in a grid-like dot pattern on the carrier layer. The fixation pads produced as described above are already characterized by a soft textile feel and improved elasticity. Since they are based on a nonwoven carrier layer, they are also easy and inexpensive to produce.

The object of the invention is to develop a fixation insert of the type described above so that in addition to a high volume and a pleasant handle has improved elastic properties in terms of nookiness and reversible elasticity and beyond easy and inexpensive to produce.

This object is achieved with a fixing insert with all features of claim 1. Preferred embodiments of the invention are described in the subclaims.

According to the invention, a fixation insert, which can be used in particular as a front-fixing insert in the textile industry, has a carrier layer of a weakly bonded and water-jet structured fibrous web or nonwoven fabric. The carrier layer is bound only in selected areas by means of a binder and provided on at least one side with an adhesive mass. The carrier layer according to the invention is structured such that it has a grid-like hole structure.

It has surprisingly been found that the generated by a patterning by means of water jets grid-like hole structure in the carrier layer in conjunction with the only areawise binding means of a binder of the fixation provides a high reversible elasticity and high degree of linguacy, even in the relevant areas for front fixation inserts lie.

The carrier layer according to the invention consists of a weakly bonded batt or nonwoven fabric. This is to be encompassed by the invention, all fiber fabrics with their fibers even after a solidification process, which may be different degrees, still have the highest possible mobility. This is typically the case, for example, with hydroentangled nonwovens, even when high water pressures are used. These are to be covered by the invention.

"Structuring" or "water jet structuring" in the sense of the invention means the rearranging of fibers in a fiber fabric by means of water jets such that a grid-like pattern of holes is produced. However, the holes need not be completely free of fibers to achieve the effect according to the invention.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the hole structure is produced by means of a water jet method through a structuring screen. Water jet processes are known per se and are u. a. for solidification, in particular preconsolidation, of nonwovens used. Typical water pressures for solidification or preconsolidation are about 150 bar or <50 bar. To produce the hole structure of the batt or the weakly bonded nonwoven fabric according to the invention, water pressures have proven in a range of 60 to 120 bar.

The water jets acting on the weakly bonded web or non-woven fabric obviously push aside some of the fibers. This results in a perforated structure in the carrier layer with an unexpectedly high volume. This volume is at the same total weight The fixation insert by up to 40% higher than in a balanced tissue or knitted fabric.

In this case, the structuring (production of the hole structure) is particularly preferably carried out in the course of the preconsolidation of the batt or nonwoven fabric. This ensures a particularly efficient process management.

The structuring of the batt usually requires more energy and a higher water pressure than, for example, in water jet processes, which are only for achieving a pre-consolidation of a batt, as in the DE 10 2009 010 995 A1 described, are used. At the same time, however, the batt is also more strongly pre-consolidated. This has a positive effect on the abrasion resistance of the nonwoven surface.

The pre-consolidation, which takes place at the same time as structuring, makes the batt stable, even if there is a perforation following the water jet treatment, stable enough that it does not have to be finally solidified by printing. Rather, the pattern-shaped three-dimensionally structured batt can be dried wound on rolls and coated in a separate second operation by all common coating methods for interlining materials and final solidified. This means that it is also possible to print with a binder and apply adhesive mass polymers after the 3P or double-point method which is particularly preferred for front-fixing inserts in a downstream operation.

Advantageously, the preconsolidation and structuring of the fibrous web by the water jet method is performed so that first from the first page the spraying with water jets on a first sieve, for example a 100 mesh sieve. As a result, a first pre-consolidation of the batt is achieved, wherein the batt additionally receives a uniform and smooth surface. Following the first pre-bake, jetting with jets of water to create the hole pattern occurs on the opposite second side of the pre-consolidated batt, for example through a 20 mesh screen.

As sieves, the mesh screens known in the high-pressure energy (HE) water jet treatment can be used. These are screening drums in which the screen structure is produced by wire mesh. The thickness and cross-section of the wires and the materials of the wires determine, by the achievable offset of the weave structure, the achieved volume of the nonwoven fabric.

For the production of the fixation inserts according to the invention advantageously for the mesh sieves wires of 0.3 mm -1.0 mm diameter for the chain and 0.2 mm -1.5 mm diameter for the shot in question. Round and rectangular wires made of VA steel, bronze, PET or other plastics can be used.

Likewise, instead of mesh sieves, other screen structures or even perforated stencils with a specific topography and water permeability for the structuring can be used. Similar effects are achieved as with a mesh screen.

By a special hole geometry of the sieves or stencils desired effects can be achieved. For example, the holes may be formed as rectangles or diamonds without restriction of generality. The longitudinal / transverse alignment of the rectangles in this case result in a different malleability of the pre-consolidated fibrous web.

Transverse rectangles are resulting in a higher longitudinal strain than standing rectangles. Lozenges are more even in elongation.

The deposition of the fibers for the production of the batt or nonwoven fabric is carried out in a conventional manner. The methods applicable thereto are known and widely described in the patent literature. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the filing of the fibers (fleece laying) takes place in the longitudinal and transverse directions. As a result, a substantially greater elasticity of the final bonded carrier material is achieved with mechanical elongation.

More preferably, the ratio of the basis weight of the longitudinally laid fibers to that of the transverse fibers is between 2: 1 to 1: 4, or 100% transversal. Then it is ensured that a reversible longitudinal extensibility of> 20% can be achieved.

• a) Durch höhere Gewichtsanteile der Querlage zur kann die Umorientierung der Fasern in Längsrichtung reduziert werden.
• a) Durch den Einsatz von biegesteiferen Fasern in der Querlage, (gröbere PES(Polyester)-Faser und/oder PA66(Polyamid 66)-Faser) werden verbesserte Quersprüngigkeit in der Einlage erzielt.
• b) Bikomponentenfaser mit thermischen Bindeeigenschaften in dem Deckfaserflor können zum Versiegeln, zum Tiefziehen der Einlage genützt werden.

Due to a multi-layered construction of the fibrous web, additional effects can be achieved in the finished material:

• a) By higher weight proportions of the transverse position to the reorientation of the fibers can be reduced in the longitudinal direction.
• a) By using more rigid fibers in the transverse layer, (coarser PES (polyester) fiber and / or PA66 (polyamide 66) fiber) improved cross-compliance in the insert can be achieved.
• b) Bi-component fiber having thermal bonding properties in the cover fiber web can be used to seal, deep draw the insert.

The fiber material is preferably polyester fibers in question. Particularly preferred fibers of recycled PES (r-PET (recycled Polyethylene terephthalate) used. Mixtures of recycled PES with other fibers are also possible. The mixing ratio can be chosen arbitrarily. The present invention thus also fulfills the task of the sustainable use of raw materials.

Proportionately fibers with a relatively high fiber titer of up to 11 dtex are particularly suitable for fixing inlays according to the invention. By using coarser fibers, the non-woven fabrics achieved according to the invention, which are atypical, are further increased.

According to the invention, the binder and / or the adhesive are not applied over the entire surface, but only in selected areas on the carrier layer. This ensures the softness and suppleness of the material. The binder and / or the adhesive mass polymers are preferably applied to the carrier layer in a dot pattern. The dot pattern may be regular or irregular. The selectively applied binder results in a significantly increased reversible internal strength of the structured nonwoven fabric, while preserving a proportion of freely movable, non-bonded fiber (areas) in the fiber composite. The binder points furthermore prevent irreversible sliding of fibers in the structured nonwoven fabric. The structured nonwoven receives thereby a high reversible elasticity. In the stretchability range of 10% in the warp direction and 20% in the weft direction, which is necessary for elastic fixation inserts, a very good reversible recovery on elongation is thus achieved.

The present invention is by no means limited to dot patterns. The mixture of binder and thermoplastic polymer may be applied in any geometry, e.g. B. also in the form of lines, stripes, net- or lattice-like structures, points of rectangular, diamond-shaped or oval geometry or the like.

Due to the superior volume and reformability, the use of the structured nonwoven fabric according to the invention can save 20% -30% by weight compared to a woven or knitted fabric used today. A perforated 60 g / m ² nonwoven according to the invention thus replaces a 73 g / m ² woven or knitted fabric of textured polyester yarns.

A particular advantage of the present invention is that, by introducing the hole structure, soft nonwoven backing layers can now also be produced in a wide weight range of 15 g / m ² to 115 g / m ² without high-weight nonwovens becoming papery and stiff.

Since the present invention is a fiber-based product, the handle problem of the woven and knitted front-fixing inserts is also solved since the fixation insert according to the invention has fibers on the surface.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the application of binder and adhesive, such as in the DE 10 2009 010 995 A1 described in one operation, wherein in a conventional manner, a preferably aqueous dispersion of a binder and a thermoplastic polymer which is in particle form, is applied in a grid-like dot pattern on the batt. The polymer particles are the adhesive. The dispersion is designed so that the polymer particles remain on the surface of the batt while the binder penetrates into the surface of the batt. A subsequent to the order of the dispersion temperature treatment is used for Drying the batt, crosslinking the binder, and sintering the adhesive polymer particles.

For drying the described interlining materials, the type of dryer used is of importance. Belt dryers with air-through techniques are preferred over cylinder dryers and suction drum dryers since the latter result in flat products. The highest possible dryer temperatures (> 190 ° C) will stabilize the volume and thermofix the finished material.

For applications where higher separation forces are needed, eg. B. when used as a front fixing insert, the application of the adhesive composition is carried out according to a known per se Doppelpunktbeschichtungsverfahrens. In the case of the double-point coating method, in a first process step, the sub-point, which usually consists of a binder and serves as a non-stick, is applied to the batt, and then applied in a second process step to the sub-point of the actual adhesive mass-forming upper point.

In order to promote the selective solidification of the provided with a hole structure nonwoven fabric, and to increase the abrasion on the adhesive side facing away, the applied amount of sub-point higher than in the conventional double-dot coating is necessary. If the applied amount of binder is so large that at least partial penetration of the fibrous web or weakly bonded nonwoven fabric with binder is ensured, then the selective bonding of the carrier layer can take place solely via the lower point. Another binder application is not required. For this purpose, the penetration depth of the binder should be perpendicular to the surface more than 30%, more preferably more than 40% and completely more preferably be more than 70%, so that a sufficient reversible elasticity and nativeness are ensured.

The fixation insert according to the invention is particularly suitable for use as a front fixation insert in the textile industry, in particular in the field of higher quality clothing, for. As menswear, suitable.

The invention will be explained in more detail with reference to the figures and the embodiments.

Fig. 1:

in einer schematischen Darstellung in Draufsicht eine erfindungsgemäße Fixiereinlage mit Perforation;

Fign. 2, 3

ein Kraft-Dehnungsdiagramm mit den Elastizitätsmodulen einer erfindungsgemäßen Fixiereinlage und einer unstrukturierten Fixiereinlage bei Längs- und Querdehnung;

Fign. 4, 5

ein Kraft-Dehnungsdiagramm mit den Elastizitätsmodulen zweier erfindungsgemäßen Fixiereinlagen mit längs/quer Vlieslegung und längs Vlieslegung bei Längs- und Querdehnung;

Fign. 6, 7

ein Kraft-Dehnungsdiagramm mit den Elastizitätsmodulen zweier erfindungsgemäßen Fixiereinlagen mit längs/quer Vlieslegung und längs Vlieslegung bei Längs- und Querdehnung;

Show it:

Fig. 1:

in a schematic representation in plan view of a fixing insert according to the invention with perforation;

FIGS. 2, 3

a force-strain diagram with the moduli of elasticity of a fixation insert according to the invention and an unstructured fixation in longitudinal and transverse strain;

FIGS. 4, 5

a force-elongation diagram with the moduli of elasticity of two fixation inserts according to the invention with longitudinal / transverse nonwoven laying and longitudinal nonwoven laying in longitudinal and transverse stretching;

FIGS. 6, 7

a force-elongation diagram with the moduli of elasticity of two fixation inserts according to the invention with longitudinal / transverse nonwoven laying and longitudinal nonwoven laying in longitudinal and transverse stretching;

EXAMPLES Embodiment 1 (PDB_3 cc47)

A batt made of 30 g / m ² PES 1.7 dtex / 38 mm (r-PET recycled PES) fibers, laid down in the form of 10 g / m ² longitudinal pile and 20 g / m ² transverse pile, was introduced into a pre-crosslinking unit. Here a slight pre-solidification with low-pressure water jets at (<50 bar) with a 100 mesh screen. On a 2nd drum of the pre-crosslinking unit was a 20 mesh bronze screen (warp diameter: 0.63mm x 0.33mm // weft wire diameter: 0.51mm // mesh x count [cm]: 9.5 / 8.5 // Thickness: 1.09 mm). The structuring was carried out with medium-pressure water jets (<80 bar). The wet fiber web was then in-line with 15g / m ² (dry) of a binder polymer particle dispersion consisting of Self-crosslinking butyl / ethyl acrylate binder dispersion with tg = -28 ° C 9 parts CoPolyamide powder 60-130μ with melting range around 115 ° C 24 parts Wetting agent a // n / i Part 1 thickener 2 parts water 59 parts dot-shaped (52 dots / cm ² ) printed. In the subsequent drying step in the binder points were crosslinked with the fibers and the polymer particles sintered.

• Flächengewicht: 45g/m²
• Modul längs/quer: bei 10% Dehnung längs von 6,9N und bei 20% Dehnung quer von 1,5N.
• Reformbarkeit: bleibende Dehnung bei 15 Zyklen: längs 3,1% bei 10% und quer 5,8 bei 20%.
• Sprungelastizität vergleichbar zu einem 60g/m² Gewebeeinlage mit texturierten
  Filamenten von dtex 75 f48 in Kette und Schuß.
• die erzielte Trennkraft fixiert zu einem PES/BW Gewebe bei 2,5bar und 12s betrug
  bei 120°C primär: 15,6N/5cm // 40°C Wäsche 12,6N/5cm // CR 11,9N/5cm
  bei 140°C primär: 17,3N/5cm // 40°C Wäsche 13,8N/5cm // 60°C Wäsche 10,6N/5cm

The achieved fixation insert according to the invention had the following properties:

• Basis weight: 45g / m ²
• Module longitudinal / transverse: at 10% elongation along 6.9N and at 20% elongation transversely of 1.5N.
• Reformability: permanent elongation at 15 cycles: longitudinally 3.1% at 10% and laterally 5.8 at 20%.
• Sprung elasticity comparable to a 60g / m ² fabric insert with textured
  Filaments of dtex 75 f48 in warp and weft.
• the release force achieved was fixed to a PES / BW tissue at 2.5bar and 12s
  at 120 ° C primary: 15.6N / 5cm // 40 ° C linen 12.6N / 5cm // CR 11.9N / 5cm
  at 140 ° C primary: 17.3N / 5cm // 40 ° C wash 13.8N / 5cm // 60 ° C wash 10.6N / 5cm

Embodiment 2

• Gewicht: 39 g/m²
• Modul längs/quer: bei 10% längs von 5,8N und bei 20% Dehnung quer von 1,9N.
• Reformbarkeit: bleibende Dehnung bei 15 Zyklen: längs 2,9% bei 10% und quer 4,9 bei 20%.
• Sprungelastizität vergleichbar zu einem 60g/m² Gewebeeinlage mit texturierten
  Filamenten von dtex 75 f48 in Kette und Schuß, wobei die Srüngigkeit quer höher war.
• die erzielte Trennkraft fixiert zu einem PES/BW Gewebe bei 2,5bar und 12s betrug
  bei 120°C primär: 13,3/5cm // 40°C Wäsche 11,9N/5cm // CR 11,6N/5cm
  bei 140°C primär. 15,7N/5cm // 40°C Wäsche 13,6N/5cm //60°C Wäsche 11,2N/5cm

A fleece laid in the form of 10 g / m ² longitudinal pile made of 100% PES 1.7 dtex / 38 mm (r-PET) fibers and 15 g / m ² transverse pile made of 50% PES 1.7 dtex / 38 mm (r-PET), 30% PES 3.3dtex / 60mm (r-PET) and 20% PES 6.7dtex / 60mm, was introduced into a pre-crosslinking unit. Here a slight pre-solidification with low-pressure water jets at (<50 bar) with a 100 mesh screen. On a 2nd drum of the pre-crosslinking unit was a 20 mesh bronze screen (warp diameter: 0.63mm x 0.33mm // weft wire diameter: 0.51mm // mesh x count [cm]: 9.5 / 8.5 // Thickness: 1.09 mm). The structuring was carried out with medium-pressure water jets (<80 bar). The wet fiber web dried in a 3-band dryer with air-thruogh air duct at 180 ° C and prefixed. this weakly bonded 20 mesh structured nonwoven then moistened in a second step in padding with water - wet pickup 100% - and then with 14g / m ² (dry overlay) a binder polymer particle dispersion punctiform (72 points / cm ² ) imprinted.
In the subsequent drying step, the binder points with the Fibers crosslinked and the polymer particles sintered.
The achieved fixation insert had the following properties:

• Weight: 39 g / m ²
• Module longitudinal / transverse: at 10% along 5.8N and at 20% elongation transversely from 1.9N.
• Reformability: permanent elongation at 15 cycles: longitudinally 2.9% at 10% and transverse 4.9 at 20%.
• Sprung elasticity comparable to a 60g / m ² fabric insert with textured
  Filaments of dtex 75 f48 in warp and weft, with the perpendicularity higher.
• the release force achieved was fixed to a PES / BW tissue at 2.5bar and 12s
  at 120 ° C primary: 13.3 / 5cm // 40 ° C laundry 11.9N / 5cm // CR 11.6N / 5cm
  primary at 140 ° C. 15,7N / 5cm // 40 ° C Wash 13,6N / 5cm // 60 ° C Wash 11,2N / 5cm

Embodiment 3

• Gewicht: 57 g/m²
• Modul längs/quer: bei 10% längs von 9,7N und bei 20% Dehnung quer von 3,1N.
• Reformbarkeit: bleibende Dehnung bei 15 Zyklen: längs 3,6% bei 10% und quer 5,6 bei 20%.
• Sprungelastizität vergleichbar zu einem 70g/m² Gewebeeinlage mit texturierten
  Filamenten von dtex 75 f48 in Kette und Schuß.
• die erzielte Trennkraft fixiert zu einem PES/BW Gewebe bei 2,5bar und 12s betrug
  bei 120°C primär: 17,415cm // 40°C Wäsche 17,0N/5cm // CR 16,2N/5cm
  bei 140°C primär: 17,7N/5cm // 40°C Wäsche 20,9N/5cm // 60°C Wäsche 17,4N/5cm

A 20-mesh structured hydroentangled nonwoven fabric 35 g / m ² of 100% 1.9 dtex PES fibers in a 2-step process with 9 g / m ² dispersion of printing paste components analog EP 1 162 304 Printing on B1 followed by the application of 13 g / m ² adhesive polymer having a particle size distribution of 80-200 .mu.m. In the subsequent drying step, the two-layer adhesive composition was sintered in the dryer.
The achieved fixation insert had the following properties:

• Weight: 57 g / m ²
• Module longitudinal / transverse: at 10% along 9.7N and at 20% elongation across from 3.1N.
• Reformability: permanent elongation at 15 cycles: lengthwise 3.6% at 10% and crosswise 5.6 at 20%.
• Sprung elasticity comparable to a 70g / m ² fabric insert with textured
  Filaments of dtex 75 f48 in warp and weft.
• the release force achieved was fixed to a PES / BW tissue at 2.5bar and 12s
  at 120 ° C primary: 17,415cm // 40 ° C wash 17,0N / 5cm // CR 16,2N / 5cm
  at 140 ° C primary: 17.7N / 5cm // 40 ° C wash 20.9N / 5cm // 60 ° C wash 17.4N / 5cm

Explanation of the figures:

One recognizes in Fig. 1 a batt 1 of longitudinal and transverse fibers. The batt 1 according to the invention has a hole structure. The holes 2 in the batt 1 are arranged in the form of a grid. It can also be seen in the figure arranged in an irregular dot pattern bonding points 3, which bind the batt 1 in selected surface areas and at the same time carry the adhesive mass polymer particles 4. In the area between the bonding points 3 surface areas, the fibers are freely movable. This effect is reinforced by the hole structure. The material is highly elastic.

The FIGS. 2 and 3 show the influence of the structuring of a fixation insert according to the invention according to embodiment 1 and an unstructured (structuring with a 100 mesh sieve in the second HE passage, but otherwise produced in the same way comparison fixation insert (PDB _1 cc45.) On the force-elongation behavior. that the non-structured nonwoven fabric can be stretched longitudinally and transversely at considerably higher forces than the structured nonwoven fabric Extensibility is facilitated by the structuring, the proportion of elastic strain is increased in the fixation insert according to the invention.

The FIGS. 4 and 5 show the influence of Fleece laying on the force-strain behavior of the fixation insert of Embodiment 1 and only longitudinally laid, but otherwise prepared in the same way comparative fixation insert (PDB_3 ra48). It can be seen that the longitudinally oriented and structured nonwoven fabric can be stretched longitudinally under substantially higher forces than the longitudinally / transversely oriented structured nonwoven fabric according to embodiment 1. The extensibility is facilitated by the longitudinal / transverse fiber laying. It can also be seen that the longitudinally oriented structured nonwoven fabric has an extremely easy extensibility in the transverse direction - in contrast to the fixing insert according to Example 1 with longitudinal / transverse nonwoven. However, this ease of elasticity provides no forces for recovery and is therefore undesirable.

The FIGS. 6 and 7 show the influence of the penetration depth of the binder in the carrier layer on the force-elongation behavior of two fixation inserts according to the invention. Shown are the maximum tensile strength values at 30 and 78% penetration depth perpendicular to the surface.

In 3P or double-dot coating, it is desirable that the sub-dot layer does not sink too deeply into the batt during printing because of the hardening of the handle. At the same time, however, the strength of the nonwoven fabric decreases with less binding through the printed binder.
Lower strength / maximum tensile strength reduces the reversibility of the elastic elongation of the structured nonwoven fabric.
It can be seen in the figures that the nonwoven fabric solidified with 30% penetration depth along with lower elongation lower strength than that with Has 78% penetration depth more severely bound fixation. If the fibrous web is not penetrated, the fibers will slip off each other more easily. In the case of transverse strain, this effect is even more visible. The reversible restoring forces are only weakly present at the fixation insert solidified with 30% penetration. A penetration of greater than 30% is therefore preferred.

Claims (11)

1. Fusible interlining, especially useful as a fusible front interlining in the textile industry, having a backing ply composed of a weakly bound and water-jet-structured fibrous web or nonwoven fabric, the backing ply being bound only in selected regions by means of a binder and being provided on at least one side with a bonding compound, and the backing ply having a grid-like hole structure.
2. Fusible interlining according to Claim 1, characterized in that the hole structure is generated by means of a water jet process through a structure-imparting screen or stencil.
3. Fusible interlining according to Claim 2, characterized in that the binder and/or the bonding compound are applied in a grid-like, regular or irregular pattern of points.
4. Fusible interlining according to any of Claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the fibrous web is of multi-ply construction, with at least one longitudinally laid and at least one cross-laid fibre ply.
5. Fusible interlining according to Claim 4, characterized in that the points of bonding compound are constructed as double points with underpoint and overpoint, the underpoints comprising a binder and the overpoints comprising a thermoplastic polymer.
6. Fusible interlining according to Claim 5, characterized in that the double points are generated by means of a conventional at least two-stage double-point process in which in a first step the binder is applied to the backing ply first and then in a second step the thermoplastic polymer is applied to the binder.
7. Fusible interlining according to Claim 5, characterized in that the double points are produced in a conventional way in one step by application of a binder/polymer particle dispersion to the fibrous web, such that the binder at least partially penetrates the fibrous web and forms the underpoints, while the particles of thermoplastic polymer remain on the surface of the fibrous web and form the overpoints.
8. Fusible interlining according to Claim 7, characterized in that the binder for the underpoints is added in an amount such that the binding of the fibrous web and/or of the weakly bound nonwoven fabric is accomplished solely by the underpoints without further addition of binder.
9. Fusible interlining according to any of Claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the backing ply consists substantially of fibres composed of recycled polyethylene terephthalate.
10. Fusible interlining according to any of Claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the basis weight of the backing ply is 15 g/m² to 120 g/m².
11. Use of a fusible interlining according to any of Claims 1 to 12 as fusible front interlining in the textile industry, more particularly in the menswear segment.

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