EP2349182A2 - Foaming emulsions - Google Patents

Foaming emulsions

Info

Publication number
EP2349182A2
EP2349182A2 EP09763918A EP09763918A EP2349182A2 EP 2349182 A2 EP2349182 A2 EP 2349182A2 EP 09763918 A EP09763918 A EP 09763918A EP 09763918 A EP09763918 A EP 09763918A EP 2349182 A2 EP2349182 A2 EP 2349182A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
acid
care
care emulsion
emulsion according
oil
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP09763918A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP2349182B1 (en
Inventor
Frank Janssen
Stefanie Hentrey
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Publication of EP2349182A2 publication Critical patent/EP2349182A2/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP2349182B1 publication Critical patent/EP2349182B1/en
Not-in-force legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/046—Aerosols; Foams
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/85—Polyesters
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/894—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a polyoxyalkylene group, e.g. cetyl dimethicone copolyol
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations

Definitions

  • the invention relates to cosmetic foaming care emulsions and their use as skin care products, as well as the use of the care emulsion in a manually operable foam dispenser.
  • Foaming emulsions are known in the art in principle, but often have unfavorable properties such as poor spreadability or dull skin feel after use. Therefore, surfactant-containing emulsions have recently been developed which, thanks to a special pumping mechanism, are foamed with air and can be distributed more easily and uniformly as a foam on the skin. However, as the foamable emulsions evolved, it was found that the foam was not strong enough and broke rapidly, leaving the skin with a watery and unpleasant feel after application.
  • EP 1 496 852 foam polyol poly-12-hydroxystearates as emulsifiers with surfactants, oil bodies, light protection filters and water to form an emulsion in a manually operated pump dispenser.
  • these systems especially for the purpose of a cosmetic skincare emulsion, were unsatisfactory in foam quality and skincare properties because the resulting foam was not dense enough to have rapid drainage.
  • the foam stability of the foaming emulsions according to EP 1 496 852 was initially improved.
  • Microscope images revealed that they were W / O / W emulsions in which all three different W / O / W micelle types were present, with W / O / W micelle type C dominating the system.
  • W / O / W micelle type C dominating the system.
  • the presence of the different micellar structures resulted in an extremely broad particle size distribution, as a result of which the foam was still not sufficiently dense and resulted after application in a strongly sticky and dull skin sensation.
  • Object of the present invention was therefore to produce a cosmetic care emulsion which is foamable by means of a manually operable foam dispenser and forms a very dense, stable but lightweight foam that can be distributed easily on the skin. Another requirement for the cosmetic care emulsion was to leave a moisturizing, nourishing skin feel when spreading the foam and after absorption.
  • the creaminess of the foam eliminates the aforementioned disadvantages such as dullness and stickiness after absorption of the foam. Instead, the consumer already feels the improved care during the distribution, which manifests itself after absorption of the foam in a moisture-saturated, smooth skin feeling.
  • the term "emulsion" on the one hand is understood to mean a homogeneous emulsion in which the water phase and the oil phase are stably emulsified over a very long period of time before foaming (that is, immediately before the foam dispenser is operated) by briefly emulsifying the oil and water phases, which are separate from each other, by vigorous shaking. Both embodiments achieve the objectives of the invention.
  • a second object of the invention is the use of a mixture of an emulsifier combination (A) containing two W / O emulsifiers of the same HLB value, which are selected from:
  • a third object of the invention is the use of the care emulsion according to the invention for improving the feel of the skin.
  • a fourth object of the invention is the use of the care emulsion according to the invention in a foam dispenser with pump mechanism for foaming with air.
  • the term "the same HLB value" is understood according to the invention to mean that the HLB values of the emulsifiers differ by less than 1, preferably less than 0.8 and in particular less than 0.5.
  • emulsifiers were very careful, because it was necessary to eliminate the aforementioned problems and to improve known recipes.
  • the emulsifiers should optimally also contribute to the nourishing properties of the nourishing emulsions without negative interactions with other constituents or skin intolerances. It has been found that for this purpose emulsifiers are suitable which have an HLB value in the
  • Range of 2 to 8 preferably from 3 to 7 and in particular in the range of 4 to 6 have.
  • Emulsifiers with an HLB value of 4.5; 4.6; 4.7; 4.8; 4.9; 5.0; 5.1; 5.2; 5.3; 5.4 or 5.5 are particularly preferred. Exceptionally preferred are the emulsifiers having an HLB of 4.8; 4.9; 5.0; 5.1 or 5.2.
  • the ratio of the emulsifiers in the care emulsion also plays a major role in the development of all positive properties of the care emulsion.
  • the best results were obtained when the emulsifiers (i) and (ii) in a weight ratio of 5: 1 to 1: 4, preferably from 3: 1 to
  • the emulsifiers (i) are in principle known substances, for example, under the names
  • the polyol component of these emulsifiers has at least two, preferably 3 to 12 and in particular 3 to 8 hydroxyl groups and 2 to 12 carbon atoms. Typical examples are:
  • Alkylene glycols such as, for example, ethylene glycols, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol,
  • Methyloyl compounds such as trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol,
  • Alkylol oligoglucosides having 1 to 22, preferably 1 to 16, more preferably 1 to 8 and in particular 1 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical, such as methyl and butyl glucoside,
  • sugar alcohols containing 5 to 12 carbon atoms such as glucose or sucrose
  • reaction products based on polyglycerol and in particular the reaction products of poly-12-hydroxystearic acid with polyglycerols of the following homolog distribution:
  • Glycerol 5 to 35, in particular 15 to 30 wt .-%,
  • Diglycerol 15 to 40, in particular 20 to 32 wt .-%,
  • Triglycerol 10 to 35, in particular 15 to 25 wt .-%,
  • Tetraglycerol 5 to 20, in particular 8 to 15,% by weight,
  • Pentaglycerin 2 to 10, especially 3 to 8 wt .-%,
  • Oligoglycerol ad 100% by weight.
  • a poly (12-hydroxysterin Textre) is polyglycerol ester, which is sold by the company Cognis under the trade designation "Dehymuls ® PGPH" as W / O emulsifier.
  • Dehymuls® PGPH has according to the manufacturer has an HLB value of from about 5 It is in the care emulsions according to the invention - based on their total weight - in an amount of 0.05 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.075 to 15 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.1 to 12 wt .-% and in particular from 0.15 to 10 wt .-% used.
  • the second obligatory emulsifier in the care emulsions according to the invention is a silicone emulsifier, in particular an organopolysiloxane-polyoxyalkylene emulsifier, which, based on the total weight of the care emulsions, in an amount of 0.05 to 15 wt .-%, preferably from 0.075 to 12 wt. -%, more preferably from 0.1 to 10 wt .-% and in particular from 0.15 to 7 wt .-% is used.
  • Organopolysiloxane-polyoxyalkylene emulsifiers suitable according to the invention correspond to the general formula (I)
  • radicals R1 independently of one another aliphatic radicals having 1 to 25 carbon atoms
  • the radicals R2 independently of one another aliphatic radicals having 2 to 25 carbon atoms
  • the radicals R3 are independently hydrogen or aliphatic radicals having 1 to 3 carbon atoms
  • the radical R4 is an inorganic or organosiloxane group which contains no hydrolyzable bonds
  • R5's are independently end groups which do not react adversely with the constituents which are to stabilize the emulsifier and do not disturb the formation of the organopolysiloxane-polyoxyalkylene
  • x represents a Is from 1 to 100
  • y is from 0 to 600
  • z is from 1 to 100
  • x + y + z is at least 30
  • a is from 4 to 40
  • b is a value from 0 to 40
  • c represents a value of O to 5, wherein the ratio of a: b is 20:80 to 100: 0.
  • organopolysiloxane-polyoxyalkylene emulsifiers in which R1 is methyl, R2 is C 8 -C 8 alkyl, R3 is hydrogen, R4 is - (CH 3) 2 -Si-O-Si- (CH 3) 2 R5 is hydrogen, x is 5 to 60, y is 0 to 150, z is 1 to 15, a is 10 to 30, b is 10 to 30 and c is O or 1.
  • organopolysiloxane-polyoxyalkylene Emulsifiers in which R 2 is C 16 -alkyl, x is 5 to 50, y is 25 to 150, z is 1 to 15 and c is 0 and the ratio of a: b is 40:60 to 70:30.
  • EM 90 has an HLB value of about 5 according to the manufacturer.
  • Both types of emulsifier which are preferred according to the invention are known to be able to produce particularly stable W / O / W emulsions with them, which is why it was expected that a stable W / O / W emulsion of type B or C would be formed by the combination of the emulsifiers ,
  • A-type emulsion cells, as well as O / W emulsion cells recognize in which the size of the emulsion cells had changed significantly parallel to the emulsion type.
  • Type A W / O / W emulsion cells were compared to micelle sizes with Dehymuls
  • PGPH were formed as the sole emulsifier, much lower.
  • Packing density which is essential for the formation of the creamy, nourishing foam.
  • the care emulsion according to the invention therefore comprises various emulsion types which are selected from W / O / W emulsions of the type A, B and C, in particular of the type A, and O / W emulsion cells.
  • the surfactants should be particularly mild to ensure a skin-friendly treatment without the appearance of skin irritation, and on the other hand, the surfactants should have a sufficient amount of surfactants.
  • mild anionic and mild amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants are selected from one or more surfactants of group (iii) of the acylamino acids, alpha
  • Olefinsulfonates ethoxylated alkylsulfuric acid esters, sulfosuccinic acid esters,
  • anionic surfactants (iii) which are suitable according to the invention are compounds which are among the sodium, potassium and ammonium mono- and mono-, di- and trialkanol ammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group, the Ethercarbon Acid the formula RO- (CH2-CH2 ⁇ ) ⁇ -CH2-COOH, in which R is a linear
  • Alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x 0 or 1 to 16,
  • Sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
  • alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x -OSO 3 H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x 0 or 1 to 12, are selected.
  • Particularly suitable anionic surfactants (iii) in the care emulsions according to the invention are, because of their excellent mildness and foamability, the sulfosuccinic acid monoester salts of fatty alcohols and fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers of the general formula
  • R 1 O (CH 2 -CH 2 -O) n -CO-CH 2 -CH (SO 3 " ) -COO " M 2 + , in which R 1 is an alkyl group having 12 to 18 carbon atoms, n is an average value of 0- 6 and M is an alkali cation, preferably sodium.
  • RI-O- (CH 2 -CH 2 -O) n -CO-CH 2 -CH (SO 3 Na) -COONa wherein R 1 has an alkyl group of 12 to 16 carbon atoms and n has a mean of 1-6.
  • the anionic surfactant (s) is (are) in the care emulsions of the invention
  • Zwitterionic surfactants which are suitable according to the invention are the so-called betaines such as the alkylbetaines, N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example the cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinates, for example the cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and Alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazoline having in each case 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the Kokosacyl- aminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat.
  • betaines such as the alkylbetaines, N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example the cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropy
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant according to the invention is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
  • ampholytic surfactants suitable according to the invention are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N- Alkylamidopropylglycine, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-Alkylaminopropion Acid and Alkylaminoessigklaroy each having about 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group.
  • Ampholytic surfactants preferred according to the invention are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C 12 -C 18 -acylsarcosine.
  • amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants (iv) in the care emulsions according to the invention are, due to their excellent mildness and foamability, ampho- and betaine surfactants which have an alkyl or acyl group with 8 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular betaine surfactants of the formula
  • R2CONH (CH 2) m -N + (CH 3) 2 -COO ", a group derived from caprylic acid and capric acid group in the R 2 CO and m 3.
  • Such surfactant is known to be particularly irritating to skin and mucous-friendly and low-betaine, and commercially available under the name Tego Betain 810 from Goldschmidt.
  • amphoteric (s) and / or zwitterionic surfactant (s) is (are) in the care emulsions according to the invention - based on their total weight - preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 20 wt .-%, preferably from 0, 2 to 15 wt .-% and in particular in amounts of 0.5 to 9 wt .-% used.
  • the care emulsions are further added with substances for increasing the emulsion and foam stability. It has been found that a particularly good foam stabilization can be achieved if a combination of different polymers was used. As particularly suitable for the care emulsions according to the invention, the combination of at least two polymers has proven, one of which is natural and the other of synthetic origin.
  • Polymers of natural origin which are suitable according to the invention are based on xanthan gum, guar gum, alginates and / or carrageenates.
  • As particularly preferred polymers have been found that can be prepared from alginates, wherein in particular esterified alginates are suitable according to the invention.
  • these compounds have the advantage that they can help to reduce the loss of water in the skin, thereby additionally supporting the moisturizing effect of the care emulsions according to the invention.
  • alginate esters are prepared from alginates which are esterified with one or more CrC ⁇ alcohols which can carry one or more hydroxy groups.
  • Particularly suitable are propylene glycol alginates, which are formed by the reaction of an alginate with propylene oxide at high temperatures.
  • esterified alginates are available, for example from FMC Biopolymers under the name "Protanal ester” in the trade.
  • Protanal ester ® CF is particularly preferred for the inventive care emulsion, because it has a low viscosity in aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous alcoholic solutions, which has a positive effect on the easy foamability of the care emulsions.
  • the polymers of natural origin are in the care emulsions according to the invention - based on their total weight - preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 5 wt .-% and most preferably in amounts of 0.1 used up to 2 wt .-%.
  • Suitable synthetic polymers are selected from anionic homopolymers and copolymers of uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids, which are partially or completely neutralized. Particularly preferred anionic homo- and copolymers here are crosslinked polyacrylic acids which are partially or completely neutralized.
  • Such polymers are for example the commercial products of the Carbopol ® series, such as Carbopol ® 934, 940, 941, Carbopol ® Ultrez 10, Carbopol ® ETD 2001 and 2050 as well as the products Teqo Carbomer 140 and 141 and Synthalen ® L.
  • the polyacrylic acids in the care emulsions according to the invention - based on their total weight - preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 4 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.02 to 2 wt .-% and most preferably in an amount of 0.03 to 1 wt. -% used.
  • preferred synthetic polymers are Polyaryloyldimethyltaurate, such as the vernetztenAcryloyldimethyltaurat-acrylamide copolymers with the trade name Sepigel ® 305 or Simulgel ® 600 from Seppic, the homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (Acyloyldimethyltaurin), optionally crosslinked and / or may be neutralized, such as poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid), which is marketed by the company Hoechst under the trade name Hostacerin ® AMPS or by the company Seppic under the trade name Simulgel ® 800, and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2 -methylpropansulfonkla and hydroxyethyl acrylates, such as the commercial products under the trade names NS Sepinov ® EMT 10 or Simulgel ® sold by the company SEPPIC.
  • the polyacryloyldimethyltaurates are in the care emulsions according to the invention - based on their total weight - preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.02 to 2 wt .-% and most preferably in an amount of 0.05 used to 1 wt .-%.
  • the combination of a polyacrylic acid has been found with a polyacryloyl dimethyl taurate, wherein the best foam and emulsion stabilization was achieved by the combination of the two polymers Tego Carbomer ® 140 and Sepinov ® EMT 10th
  • a suitable polymer combination for optimal foam and emulsion stabilization especially the combination of alginate with a polyacrylic acid and a polyacryloyl dimethyl taurate, and in particular the combination of the commercial products Protanal Ester ® CF, Tego Carbomer ® 140 and Sepinov ® EMT 10th
  • the essential oil component for the preparation of the care emulsions according to the invention must also have skin-care properties, be easily emulsified with the abovementioned, compelling components and not adversely affect the emulsion stability influence. Furthermore, the oil component must not affect the foaming and the sensor of the foam. Under these conditions, they are suitable for the following natural and synthetic oil components and / or fatty substances according to the invention:
  • Natural (vegetable) oils these are usually triglycerides and mixtures of triglycerides.
  • Preferred natural oils according to the invention are coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango seed oil, meadowfoam seed oil, thistle oil, Macadamia nut oil, grape seed oil, amaranth seed oil, argan oil, bamboo oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter and shea butter.
  • mineral oils as mineral oils in particular mineral oils, paraffin and isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons are used.
  • An inventively employable hydrocarbon is for example that available as a commercial product 1, 3-di- (2-ethylhexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ® S).
  • oils are also silicone compounds such as Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone and Amodimethicone into consideration.
  • oil component may further serve a dialkyl ether.
  • Dialkyl ethers which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-alkyl ether.
  • n-undecyl ether di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and Di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyl decyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methylpentyl-n-octyl ether.
  • di-n-octyl ether which is commercially available under the name Cetiol ® OE.
  • Fatty substances which are suitable according to the invention are fatty acids, fatty alcohols and natural and synthetic waxes which may be present in solid form as well as liquid in aqueous dispersion.
  • the fatty acids used can be linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ® 871 and Emersol ® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ® (Cognis) fatty acids.
  • fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linoleic and erucic acid and their technical mixtures, which are obtained, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids.
  • fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil;
  • stearic acid is usually preferred.
  • fatty alcohols it is possible to use saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C 6 -C 30 -, preferably C 10 -C 22 - and very particularly preferably C 12 -C 22 -carbon atoms.
  • Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character.
  • the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction.
  • those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reduction of naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols.
  • Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ® such as Stenol ® 1618 or Lanette ® such as Lanette ® O or Lorol ®, for example, Lorol ® C8, Lorol C14 ®, Lorol C18 ®, ® Lorol C8-18, HD-Ocenol ®, Crodacol ® such as Crodacol ® CS, Novol ®, Eutanol ® G, Guerbitol ® 16, Guerbitol ® 18, Guerbitol ® 20, Isofol ® 12, Isofol ® 16, lsofol ® 24, Isofol ® 36, Isocarb ® 12, Isocarb ® 16 or acquire Isocarb® ® 24 for sale.
  • Stenol ® such as Stenol ® 1618 or Lanette ® such as Lanette ® O or Lorol ®
  • Lorol ® C8 Lorol C8-18
  • wool wax alcohols as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ®, White Swan ®, Coronet ® or Fluilan ® can be used according to the invention.
  • the natural or synthetic waxes used according to the invention are solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP.
  • Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.
  • Other fatty substances are, for example
  • Ester oils are to be understood as meaning the esters of C 6 - C 30 fatty acids with C 2 - C 30 fatty alcohols.
  • the monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred.
  • Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic Behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures which are obtained, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids.
  • fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myrotic alcohol, ristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, for example in the high pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols incurred.
  • isopropyl myristate IPM Rilanit ®
  • isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester Cetiol ® SN
  • 2-ethylhexyl palmitate Cegesoft ® 24
  • stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester Cetiol ® 868
  • cetyl oleate glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprate / caprylate (Cetiol ® LC)
  • n-butyl stearate oleyl erucate
  • isopropyl palmitate IPP Rilanit ®
  • oleyl Oleate Cetiol ®
  • hexyl laurate Cetiol ® A
  • di-n-butyl adipate Cetiol ® B
  • myrist IPM Rilanit ®
  • Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate
  • diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2- ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol diisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate, symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ® CC), ethoxylated or non ethoxylated mono, - di- and trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear
  • the creaminess and the moisture and smoothness-donating properties are particularly positively influenced when used as oil components dialkyl ethers, dialkyl carbonates and benzoic acid esters.
  • dialkyl ethers for example Cetiol ® OE
  • Ethylhexyl Palmitate eg Cegesoft ® C24
  • C12-C15 alkyl benzoate such as Finsolv TN ®
  • the total amount of the aforementioned oil and fat components in the care emulsions according to the invention is 1 to 25% by weight, preferably 3 to 20% by weight, more preferably 5 to 15% by weight and in particular 6, based on the total weight of the care emulsions to 10% by weight.
  • the care emulsions according to the invention are to contain further hydrophobic active substances, in particular light protection filters, it is particularly preferred that the total amount of the emulsified oil phase, including the abovementioned oil and fat components and other hydrophobic active ingredients in the care emulsions according to the invention, based on the total weight of the care emulsions - 1 - 25 wt .-%, preferably 3 to 20 wt .-%, more preferably 5 to 15 wt .-% and in particular 6 to 10 wt .-% is.
  • Particularly preferred care emulsions according to the invention are characterized in that the aforementioned oil and fat components in a total amount of preferably 3 to 20 wt.
  • hydrophobic active substances in particular light protection filters, in a total amount of 0.5-22
  • Wt .-% preferably 1-15 wt .-%, more preferably 3-12 wt .-%, and most preferably 5-10 wt .-% are included, each based on the total weight of
  • the weight of the obligatory emulsifiers (i) and (ii) is not included in the oil phase.
  • the amount of water phase in the emulsions according to the invention is preferably> 35
  • Wt .-% more preferably> 45 wt .-%, particularly preferably> 55 wt .-% and particularly preferably> 65 wt .-% - in each case based on the total weight of the emulsion.
  • the care emulsions to further enhance the skin nourishing and protective
  • UV photoprotective filters Group of UV photoprotective filters, antioxidants, humectants, hyaluronic acid and their physiologically acceptable salts and derivatives, agents for stimulating the
  • Collagen synthesis agents to increase or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts and agents to promote the
  • emulsions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, in addition to the compulsory active substance combination according to claim 1, at least one of the
  • Containing collagen synthesis stimulating agent that is selected from
  • Retinoids especially retinol and C 2 -C 22 fatty acid esters of retinol
  • Creatine as well as mixtures of the aforementioned substances.
  • RAR retinoid acid receptor
  • RXR retinoid X receptor
  • Synthetic retinoids are classified into three groups: non-aromatic (eg, isotretinoin), monoaromatic (eg, acitretin), and polyaromatic (so-called arotinoids, eg, tazarotene, which have a specific effect on single retinoid receptors).
  • non-aromatic eg, isotretinoin
  • monoaromatic eg, acitretin
  • polyaromatic so-called arotinoids, eg, tazarotene, which have a specific effect on single retinoid receptors.
  • arotinoids eg, tazarotene
  • agents which are preferred according to the invention and stimulate collagen synthesis are selected from Kombucha.
  • Kombucha is an originating from East Asia, about 0.5% by volume of alcohol containing, pleasantly sour, slightly sweet, sparkling fermentation beverage based on mono- or disaccharide-containing tea (black tea, green tea, herbal tea or fruit tea), which is produced without the addition of preservatives, colorings and flavorings.
  • the "Kombucha tea fungus” is in fact not a fungus, but a symbiosis of acetic acid bacteria (usually Acetobacter xylinum, but also Acetobacter gluconicum) with various yeasts (Saccharomyces sp., Torula sp., Pichia fermentans); Optionally, lactic acid bacteria may be present. For reasons of production safety and production stability, industrially manufactured kombucha is often heat treated.
  • tannin is understood to mean aqueous infusions of leaves, buds and delicate stems of Thea sinensis and Thea assamica, but also of various other plants, for example mint, linden, mallow, red bush, chamomile etc.
  • Preferred Kombucha is obtained from mono- or disaccharide-containing tea of fermented (black tea, oolong tea, yellow tea, pu-erh tea) or unfermented (green tea) leaves of thea sinensis (camellia sinensis) or thea assamica by fermentation of (usually with sucrose) sugared tea with the symbiotic microorganisms Saccharomyces and Acetobacter xylinum
  • a particularly preferred Kombucha product according to the invention is a product obtained by fermentation of sucrose-sugared black tea with the two symbiotic microorganisms Saccharomyces and Acetobacter xylinum and for example under the INCI name "Sacchar omyces / Xylinu m / Black Tea ferment, glycerol, hydroxyethyl cellulose "with the trade name” Kombuchka "as glycerol-containing thickened preparation from the company Sederma.
  • agents which are preferred according to the invention and stimulate collagen synthesis are selected from olive leaf extracts (Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract).
  • An inventively particularly preferred olive leaf extract is available under the trade name Oleanoline DPG from the company Vincience.
  • Another invention particularly preferred olive leaf extract is under the trade name Olea europ Fol extr. S. sicc. available from Fruitarom.
  • Olive leaf extracts may have a high content of oleanolic acid and / or oleanol.
  • Further inventively preferred active ingredients that stimulate collagen synthesis are selected from oleanolic acid and oleanol.
  • active ingredients that stimulate collagen synthesis are selected from green tea extracts (Camellia Sinensis).
  • a particularly preferred green tea extract according to the invention is liposome-encapsulated green tea extract, for example available under the trade name Greenselect Phytosome from Indena.
  • agents which are preferred according to the invention and stimulate collagen synthesis are selected from oligopeptides and creatine and also from mixtures of all the abovementioned active ingredients.
  • the active ingredient (s) which stimulate collagen synthesis are used in the care emulsions according to the invention, based on their total weight, in an amount of 0.000001-5% by weight, preferably 0.00001-2 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001 - 1 wt .-% and most preferably 0.005 - 0.5 wt .-%, used.
  • emulsions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, in addition to the compulsory active ingredient combination according to claim 1, at least one further active substance which increases and / or improves the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts and which is selected from
  • Apple seed extracts (Pyrus malus (Apple) Fruit Extract),
  • Grape Seed Extracts (Vitis vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract), which are preferred from the
  • Hydroxystilbenes and their esters in particular resveratrol and / or resveratrol mono-, di- and triphosphoric esters and their salts,
  • apple seed extracts Panar malus (Apple) Fruit Extract
  • Particularly preferred apple seed extracts according to the invention are available under the trade name Ederline from Seporga.
  • the product Ederline contains phytohormones, isoflavonoids, phytosterols, triterpenoids, tocopherols and natural waxes.
  • Ederline is once in water-soluble form as Ederline-H (INCI: PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor OiI, PPG-2-Ceteareth-9, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract), on the other in fat-soluble form as Ederline-L (INCI: Hexyldecanol , Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract).
  • Care emulsions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain the raw material Ederline in amounts of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 to 8% by weight and more preferably from 3 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the total Composition, included.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one apple seed extract in amounts of 0.001-2% by weight, preferably 0.01-1.6% by weight and more preferably 0.03-1% by weight. %, in each case based on the content of active substance in the total composition.
  • Further agents which are preferred according to the invention and increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts are selected from lotus germ extracts.
  • a particularly preferred lotus germ extract according to the invention is available under the trade name Lotus Germ Extract with the INCI name Water, Butylene Glycol, Nelumbo Nucifera Germ Extract from Maruzen.
  • Further agents which are preferred according to the invention and increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts are selected from extracts of corn kernels (Zea mays (Com) Kernel Extract).
  • An extract of corn kernels which is particularly preferred according to the invention is obtainable under the trade name Deliner from Coletica.
  • Further agents which are preferred according to the invention and increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts are selected from red wine extracts (wine extract).
  • a particularly preferred red wine extract according to the invention is available under the trade name Sepivinol R from Seppic.
  • grape seed extracts (Vitis vinifera (Grape) seed extract), which are particularly preferably derived from the Chardonnay grape.
  • grape seed extracts are available under the trade name Herbalia Grape from Cognis or under the trade name Crodarom Chardonnay from Croda.
  • Further agents which are preferred according to the invention and increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts are selected from extracts of black elderflower (Sambucus nigra flower extract).
  • An invention particularly preferred extract of black elderflower is available under the trade name Sambucus AO from the company Alpaflor / Centerchem or Permcos.
  • Particularly preferred mixtures according to the invention of at least one extract of cocoa beans (Theobroma cacao) and at least one extract of the leaves of peppermint (Mentha piperita) - wherein aqueous, glycolic or aqueous-glycolic preparations of these extract mixtures particularly Preferred are - available under the trade names Caomint, Caophenol, Caobromine, Caospice and Caoorange from Solabia.
  • agents which are preferred according to the invention and increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts are selected from hydroxystilbenes and their esters, in particular resveratrol (trans-stilbene-3,4'-5-triol) and / or resveratrol. mono-, di- and -triphosphorklareestern and their salts.
  • An inventively particularly preferred Resveratrolphosphorklareester is trisodium resveratrol triphosphates, z. Available from Ajinomoto.
  • agents which are preferred according to the invention and increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts are selected from isoflavonoids and isoflavonoid-rich plant extracts.
  • the isoflavones include the isoflavones and the isoflavone glycosides.
  • isoflavones are to be understood as substances which are hydrogenation, oxidation or substitution products of 3-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran, it being possible for hydrogenation to be in the 2,3-position of the carbon skeleton, oxidation to form a carbohydrate. nyloli in the 4-position may be present, and by substitution of the replacement of one or more hydrogen atoms by hydroxy or methoxy groups to understand.
  • the isoflavones preferred according to the invention include, for example, daidzein, genistein, prunetin, biochanin, orobol, santal, pratense, irigenin, glycitein, biochanin A and formononetin.
  • Particularly preferred isoflavones are daidzein, genistein, glycitein and formononetin.
  • the isoflavones are glycosidically linked via at least one hydroxy group to at least one sugar.
  • Suitable sugars are mono- or oligosaccharides, in particular D-glucose, D-galactose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-xylose, D-apiose, L-rhamnose, L-arabinose and rutinose.
  • Particularly preferred isoflavone glycosides according to the invention are daidzin and genistin.
  • the isoflavones and / or their glycosides are contained in the preparations as constituents of a substance mixture obtained from a plant, in particular a plant extract.
  • a substance mixture obtained from a plant, in particular a plant extract.
  • Such vegetable substance mixtures can be obtained in a manner familiar to the person skilled in the art, for example by squeezing or extracting from plants such as soy, in particular from soybean, red clover or chickpeas.
  • Isoflavones or isoflavone glycosides in the form of extracts obtained from soybean are particularly preferably used in the preparations according to the invention, as described, for example, under the product name Lipobelle Soyaglycone (Mibelle AG Cosmetics), Soy Protein Isolate SPI (Protein Technology International, St. Louis) or Soy Phytochemicals Concentrate SPC (Archer Daniels Midland, Decatur) are commercially available.
  • Another particularly preferred isoflavonoid-rich plant extract is apple seed extract, in particular the commercial product Ederline from Seporga. Ederline contains phytohormones, isoflavonoids, phytosterols, triterpenoids, tocopherols and natural waxes.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one isoflavonoid in total amounts of from 0.00001 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight and more preferably from 0.001 to 0.1% by weight .-%, each based on the Isoflavonoiditsubstanz in the entire cosmetic composition.
  • Another preferred agent of the present invention which increases and / or improves the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts is dihydroquercetin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone), also referred to as taxifolin.
  • Care emulsions particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one active substance which increases and / or improves the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts in a total amount of 0.000001-10% by weight, preferably 0.00001-5 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001 - 2 wt .-% and most preferably 0.005 - 0.5 or 1 wt .-%, in each case based on the content of active substance in the total composition.
  • a suitable active ingredient for promoting elastin production according to the invention is a dill extract (Peucedanum Graveolens Extract), for example a product available under the trade name AHYA 050 A (mixture of water, butylene glycol, dill extract and xanthan gum).
  • Dill extract is used in the care emulsions according to the invention - based on their total weight - in an amount of 0.0001 to 3 wt .-%, preferably from 0.0005 to 2 wt .-% and in particular 0.001 to 1, 5 wt .-%.
  • active ingredients which can be added to the care emulsions according to the invention in addition to the obligatory active ingredients according to claim and which positively influence the skin condition are selected from the group which is formed from:
  • Flavonoids and flavonoid-rich plant extracts are Flavonoids and flavonoid-rich plant extracts
  • emulsions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, in addition to the compulsory active ingredient combination according to claim 1, at least one active substance which is selected from DNA oligonucleotides and RNA oligonucleotides.
  • an oligonucleotide is understood as meaning polymers of from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10, mononucleotides which, like polynucleotides and nucleic acids, are linked by phosphoric diester bridges.
  • nucleotides consist of nucleobases (usually pyrimidine or purine derivatives), pentoses (usually D-ribofuranose or 2-deoxy-D-ribofuranose in ß-N-glycosidic bond to the nucleobase) and phosphoric acid.
  • the mononucleotides are, for example, adenosine phosphates, cytidine phosphates, guanosine phosphates, uridine phosphates and thymidine phosphates, in particular CMP (cytidine 5'-monophosphate), UDP (uridine 5'-diphosphate), ATP (adenosine 5-triphosphate) and GTP (guanosine-5 'triphosphate).
  • An oligonucleotide particularly preferred according to the invention is the thymidine dinucleotide.
  • the DNA oligonucleotides or RNA oligonucleotides are present in amounts of 0.00001-5% by weight, preferably 0.0001-1.0% by weight and more preferably 0.0005-0 , 5 wt .-%, based on the total composition.
  • emulsions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, in addition to the compulsory active ingredient combination according to claim 1, at least one active ingredient which is selected from at least one vitamin, provitamin or a compound designated as vitamin precursor from the vitamin groups B, E, H and K and the Esters of the aforementioned substances.
  • the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others - Vitamin B 1, thiamine trivial name, chemical designation 3 - [(4 '-amino-2' -methyl-5 '-pyrimidinyl) - methyl] -5- (2-hydroxyethyl) -4-methylthiazolium.
  • Thiamine hydrochloride is preferred in
  • Vitamin B 2 common name riboflavin, chemical name 7,8-dimethyl-10- (1-D-ribityl) - benzo [g] pteridine-2,4 (3 / - /, 10 / - /) - dione.
  • Riboflavin or its derivatives are preferably used in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total composition.
  • the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide are performed.
  • Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total composition.
  • pantothenic acid and panthenol Panthenol is preferably used.
  • Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols.
  • Particularly preferred derivatives are the commercially available substances dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone with the trivial name pantolactone (Merck), 4-hydroxymethyl- ⁇ -butyrolactone (Merck), 3,3 Dimethyl 2-hydroxy- ⁇ -butyrolactone (Aldrich) and 2,5-dihydro-5-methoxy-2-furanone (Merck), expressly including all stereoisomers.
  • the inventively extremely preferred 2-furanone derivative is pantolactone (dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone), wherein in formula (VIT-I) R 1 is a hydroxyl group, R 2 represents a hydrogen atom, R 3 and R 4 represent a methyl group, and R 5 and R 6 represent a hydrogen atom.
  • the stereoisomer (R) -pantolactone is formed during the degradation of pantothenic acid.
  • the said compounds of the vitamin B 5 type and the 2-furanone derivatives are present in the compositions according to the invention in a total amount of 0.05 to 5 wt.%, Preferably 0.1 to 3 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition included.
  • Vitamin B 6 which is understood hereunder no uniform substance, but the known under the common names pyridoxine, pyridoxamine and pyridoxal derivatives of 5-hydroxymethyl-2-methylpyridin-3-ols.
  • Vitamin B 6 is contained in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1, 0 wt .-%, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-%.
  • Biotin also known as vitamin H or "skin vitamin”.
  • Biotin is (3aS, 4S, 6af?) - 2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-cf] -imidazole-4-valeric acid.
  • Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
  • Folic acid (Vitamin B 9 , Vitamin B c ). International generic name for N- [4- (2-amino-3,4-dihydro-4-oxo-6-pteridinylmethylamino) -benzoyl] -L-glutamic acid (N-pteroyl-L-glutamic acid, PteGlu). Folate is used synonymously with pteroylglutamate. Folate is the collective term for all folic acid-active compounds and refers to a class of substances containing a pteridine ring linked to 4-aminobenzoic acid and L-glutamic acid.
  • Folic acid is a growth factor for various microorganisms and a compound of vitamin character, which is usually found in nature as polyglutamate and in reduced form (7,8-dihydrofolic acid, H 2 folate, DHF, tetrahydrofolic acid, H 4 folate, THF, 5'-methyl). Tetrahydrofolic acid, CH 3 -H 4 folate, MeTHF).
  • Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one component selected from folic acid, folates and their esters, in a total amount from 0.0001 to 1, 0 wt .-%, in particular 0.01 to 0.5 wt .-%, based on the composition.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one component selected from orotic acid, orotates and their esters, in a total amount of 0.0001-1.0% by weight, in particular 0.01-0.5% by weight. %, based on the composition.
  • the vitamin E group includes tocopherol, especially ⁇ -tocopherol, and its derivatives.
  • Preferred derivatives are in particular the esters, such as tocopheryl acetate, nicotinate, phosphate, succinate, linoleate, oleate, tocophereth-5, tocophereth-10, tocophereth-12, tocophereth-18, tocophereth-50 and tocopherol.
  • Tocopherol and its derivatives are preferably present in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total composition.
  • Vitamin H is another name for biotin or vitamin B 7 (see above).
  • the fat-soluble vitamins of the vitamin K group that underlie the basic structure of 2-methyl-1,4-naphthoquinone include phylloquinone (vitamin K 1 ), farnoquinone or menaquinone-7 (vitamin K2) and menadione (vitamin K 3 ).
  • Vitamin K is preferably present in amounts of 0.0001 to 1, 0 wt .-%, in particular 0.01 to 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.
  • emulsions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, in addition to the compulsory active ingredient combination according to claim 1, at least one active ingredient which is selected from at least one ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acid, ⁇ -ketocarboxylic acid or ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acid or their ester, lactone and / or salt form.
  • Preferred ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids or ⁇ -ketocarboxylic acids according to the invention are glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2,3-dihydroxypropanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxybenzoic acid.
  • decanoic acid 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, mandelic acid, 4-hydroxymandelic acid, malic acid, erythraric acid, threaric acid, glucaric acid, galactaric acid, mannaric acid, gularic acid, 2-hydroxy-2-methylsuccinic acid, gluconic acid, pyruvic acid, Glucuronic acid and galacturonic acid.
  • Particularly preferred ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids are lactic acid, citric acid, glycolic acid and gluconic acid.
  • a particularly preferred ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acid is salicylic acid.
  • a particularly preferred ⁇ -ketocarboxylic acid is pyruvic acid.
  • the esters of said acids are selected from the methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, amyl, pentyl, hexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl and hexadecyl esters.
  • Further derivatives of the abovementioned acids are their physiologically tolerated salts, preferably the zinc, copper and manganese salts, the salts of the alkali and alkaline earth metals and the ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts, particularly preferably the sodium, potassium and potassium salts. , Magnesium and calcium salts.
  • the ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids, ⁇ -ketocarboxylic acids or ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids or their derivatives are preferably present in a total amount of 0.1-10% by weight, more preferably 0.5-5% by weight and most preferably 1-2% by weight. -%, in each case based on the total composition included.
  • emulsions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, in addition to the compulsory active substance combination according to claim 1, at least one active substance which is selected from at least one flavonoid and / or at least one flavonoid-rich plant extract.
  • the flavonoids preferred according to the invention include the glycosides of the flavones, the 3-hydroxyflavones (flavonols) and the aurones.
  • the flavanones and isoflavones according to the invention are expressly excluded from the flavonoids.
  • flavonoids are selected from naringin (aurantiine, naringenin-7-rhamnoglucoside), ⁇ -glucosylrutin, ⁇ -glucosylmyricetin, ⁇ -glucosylisoquercetin, ⁇ -glucosylquercetin, rutin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavone-3 -rhamnoglucoside, quercetin-3-rhamnoglucoside), troxerutin (3,5-dihydroxy-3 ', 4', 7-tris (2-hydroxyethoxy) -flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy- ⁇ -L -mannopyranosyl) - ⁇ -D-glucopyranoside)), monoxerutin (3,3 ', 4', 5-tetrahydroxy-7- (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy- ⁇ -L - mannopyranos)
  • Extremely preferred flavonoids according to the invention are ⁇ -glucosylrutin, naringin and apigenin-7-glucoside.
  • flavonoids are constructed from two flavonoid biflavonoids, z. B. occur in gingko species.
  • Other preferred flavonoids are the chalcones, especially phloricin and neohesperidin dihydrochalcone.
  • the flavonoids are used in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight and more preferably from 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based in each case on the flavonoid-active substance the entire cosmetic composition.
  • Further care emulsions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, in addition to the compulsory active substance combination according to claim 1, at least one active substance which is selected from at least one ubiquinone or a ubiquinol or derivatives thereof.
  • Ubiquinols are the reduced form of ubiquinones.
  • the preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the formula (UBI-I):
  • the ubiquinone of the formula (UBI-I) with n 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10.
  • the ubiquinone of the formula (UBI-I) with n 10, known as coenzyme Q10.
  • the ubiquinones, ubiquinols or derivatives thereof in amounts of 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total Composition, used.
  • silymarin is an active substance concentrate from the fruits of the milk thistle (Silybum marianum) which was previously regarded as a uniform substance.
  • the main constituents of silymarin are silybin (silymarin I), silychristin (silymarin II) and silydianin, which belong to the group of flavanolignans.
  • silymarin is used in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.
  • emulsions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain ectoine in addition to the compelling active ingredient combination according to claim 1.
  • Ectoin is the common name for 2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydropyrimidine-4-carboxylate.
  • ectoine is preferably present in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.001 to 0.5% by weight, and most preferably from 0.005 to 0.01% by weight, based in each case on the total composition.
  • UV filter substances are substances which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and which are capable of absorbing ultraviolet rays and of absorbing the absorbed energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, eg. B. to give off heat again.
  • UVA filters can be used individually or in mixtures. The use of filter mixtures is preferred according to the invention.
  • the organic UV filters preferred according to the invention are selected from the derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, cinnamic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, benzophenone, camphor, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, o-aminobenzoic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles, symmetrically or unsymmetrically substituted 1,3,5-triazines, monomers and oligomeric 4,4-diarylbutadiene carboxylic acid esters and carboxamides, ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane, benzalmalonic acid esters, benzoxazole and any desired mixtures of the stated components.
  • the organic UV filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
  • the benzoxazole derivatives are advantageously present in dissolved form in the cosmetic preparations according to the invention. However, it may also be advantageous if the benzoxazole derivatives are present in a pigmentary, ie undissolved form, for example in particle sizes of from 10 nm to 300 nm.
  • oil-soluble UV filters are 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphe- nyl) propane-1, 3-dione (Parsol ® 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4 '-isopropylphenyl) propane-1, 3 dione, 3- (4' - methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4- (dimethyl- amino) benzoic acid 2-octyl ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid ester, 2-ethylhexyl A-methoxycinnamate, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene) , 2-e
  • Preferred water-soluble UV filters are 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, Alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts, in particular the sulfonic acid itself with the INCI name phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (CAS No.
  • solutions of the UV-A-filter 1 can be, for example, (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione (z. B. Parsol ® 1789) in various UV-B - Make filters.
  • compositions according to the invention contain 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione in combination with at least one UV-B filter selected from 4 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate and S ⁇ S-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate.
  • the weight ratio of UV-B filter to 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione is between 1: 1 and 10: 1, preferably between 2 : 1 and 8: 1, the molar ratio is between 0.3 and 3.8, preferably between 0.7 and 3.0.
  • the inventively preferred inorganic photoprotective pigments are finely dispersed or colloidally disperse metal oxides and metal salts, for example titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc) and barium sulfate.
  • the particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm, so-called nanopigments. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating shape from the spherical shape.
  • the pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobized.
  • Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, such as. Example, titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex ® T2000 (Merck).
  • Suitable hydrophobic coating agents are in particular silicones and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones. Particularly preferred are titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.
  • the organic UV filter substances are preferably in amounts of 0.1-30% by weight, more preferably 0.5-20% by weight, most preferably 1.0-0.5% by weight and more preferably 3.0 - 10 wt .-%, each based on the total composition included.
  • the inorganic UV filter substances are preferably present in amounts of 0.1-15% by weight, more preferably 0.5-10% by weight, even more preferably 1.0-0.5% by weight and more preferably 2.0 - 4.0 wt .-%, each based on the total composition included.
  • Further care emulsions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one self-tanning active ingredient in addition to the compulsory active ingredient combination according to claim 1.
  • Self-tanning active ingredients preferred according to the invention are selected from dihydroxyacetone, erythrulose and 5,6-dihydroxyindoline.
  • the self-tanning active ingredients are present in a total amount of 0.01-15% by weight, preferably 0.1-10% by weight, more preferably 1.0-0.5% by weight and most preferably 2.0-4. 0 wt .-%, each based on the total composition included.
  • Further care emulsions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one skin-soothing active ingredient in addition to the compelling active ingredient combination according to claim 1.
  • Skin-soothing active ingredients preferred according to the invention are selected from allantoin, ⁇ -bisabolol, ⁇ -lipoic acid, extracts from Centella asiatica, for example obtainable under the name Madecassicoside from DSM, glycyrrethic acid, which is particularly preferably encapsulated in liposomes and in this form z.
  • Extracts of the seeds of Cucurbita pepo (courgettes) which are particularly preferred according to the invention are described, for example, in the commercial products Curbilene (ex lndena SpA, INCI: Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin) seed extract), Ocaline (ex Soliance, INCI: Sea Water (and) Water (and) Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin seed extract), ARP 100 (ex Greentech, INCI: Water, Alcohol, Serenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract, Epilobium Angustifolium Extract, Cucurbita Pepo (Pumpkin) Seed Extract), ARP 100 Huileux (ex Greentech, INCI: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, Serenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower / Leaf / Stem Extract, Cucurbita Pepo (Pumpkin) Seed Extract), Cucurbi - Tine (ex Christian Dior Perfume, INCI: Water (and) Cu
  • Mentha piperita extracts which are particularly preferred according to the invention, in particular from the leaves of Mentha piperita, are described, for example, in the commercial products Calmiskin OP (ex Silab, INCI: Water (and) Mentha piperita (Peppermint Leaf Extract) and Caomint (ex Solabia, INCI: Propylene Glycol, Water, Mentha piperita (Peppermint) leaf extract, Theobroma cacao (Cocoa) extract).
  • the skin-soothing active ingredients are preferably present in amounts of 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01 to 2 wt .-% and most preferably 0.1 to 1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.
  • Sebum-regulating active substances which are preferred according to the invention are selected from azelaic acid, sebacic acid, 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, 1,10-decanediol which are used as the triple combination according to the invention in the commercial product acnacidol PG from Vincience, furthermore from the commercial product Azeloglicina (potassium azeloyl diglycinate) from Sinerga, Extracts of Spiraea Ulmaria, as they are eg.
  • the sebum-regulating active ingredients are preferably present in a total amount of 0.001 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.01 to 2% by weight and most preferably 0.1 to 1% by weight, based in each case on the total composition.
  • emulsions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, in addition to the compulsory active ingredient combination according to claim 1, at least one polysaccharide which in a preferred embodiment is selected from glycosaminoglycans, more preferably from hvaluronic acid, dextran, dextran sulfate, chondroitin 4-sulfate and chondroitin. 6-sulphate and most preferably from hyaluronic acid.
  • the polysaccharide is the care emulsions according to the invention - based on the
  • Total weight - in an amount of 0.0001 to 2 wt .-%, preferably from 0.0005 to 1, 5 wt .-% and in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 1 wt .-% added.
  • the care emulsions in addition to the compelling active ingredient combination according to claim 1 at least one
  • Humectants or a penetration aid include, for example, to count
  • Hexanediol 1, 2-dodecanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1, 6-hexanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 4-butanediol.
  • glycerol and sorbitol.
  • humectants or penetration aids are the inventive
  • the care emulsions according to the invention have a pH in the skin-friendly range of from 3.5 to 7.5, preferably from 4 to 7 and in particular from 4.5 to 6.5.
  • emulsions according to the invention may optionally contain the further auxiliaries, additives and active ingredients:
  • Deodorizing agents counteract, cover or eliminate body odors.
  • Body odors are caused by the action of skin bacteria on apocrine sweat, forming unpleasant-smelling degradation products. Accordingly, suitable as deodorizing agents u.a. germ inhibitors, enzyme inhibitors, odor absorbers or odor maskers.
  • Insect repellents examples include N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1, 2-pentanediol or 3- (Nn-butyl-N-acetylamino) -propionic acid ethyl ester), which is designated Insect Repellent 3535 sold by Merck KGaA, as well as Butylacetylaminopropionate in question.
  • Suitable self-tanner is dihydroxyacetone.
  • tyrosine inhibitors which prevent the formation of melanin and find application in depigmenting agents, for example, arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, coumaric acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C) come into question.
  • Preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid and the silver complexes known under the name SurfacineG and the further classes of compounds listed in Appendix 6, Part A and B of the Cosmetics Regulation.
  • Perfume oils are mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peels, roots, woods, herbs and grasses, needles and twigs, resins and Balsams. Furthermore, animal raw materials, such as civet and Castoreum and synthetic fragrance compounds of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and
  • Titanium dioxide (C.1.77891), Indanthrenblau RS (C.1 69800) and Krapplack (C.1.58000).
  • Dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1 wt .-%, based on the total mixture.
  • the care emulsions according to the invention are particularly suitable for application in a manually operable system with a pumping mechanism.
  • Foam dispenser with a pump mechanism for foaming with air is included.
  • Such a foam dispenser makes it possible to dispense with propellant gases.
  • Also particularly advantageous in this type of dispensers is that the application is particularly simple, the resulting
  • Foam has a light and creamy texture, no drainage and a simple spreadability, whereby all the above-mentioned positive effects on the skin can be achieved.
  • Foam dispensers which are particularly suitable according to the invention are disclosed in applications WO
  • foam dispensers which are particularly suitable for the care emulsions according to the invention are commercially available under the names M3 and F3 from Airspray.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized by a viscosity at 21 0 C in
  • Range of 50-1500 mPas preferably 100-1000 mPas, more preferably 400-850 mPas, most preferably 500-750 mPas, measured with a Brookfield
  • the fat and the water phase are heated to about 80 0 C. Subsequently, the water phase is emulsified using a Dissolveremia with the submitted fat phase.
  • the stirrer rotation frequency is continuously increased during the phase combination from 250 to 1400 rpm.
  • the polymers (carbomer and alginate) are added in the form of swelling in water.
  • the fragrances, agents and preservatives are incorporated. Subsequently, first one third of the hydrophilic emulsifier mixture is added.
  • the viscosity of the emulsion decreases sharply and the rotational frequency of the stirring element is controlled down to 300 rpm.
  • the remaining two-thirds of the hydrophilic emulsifier mixture are incorporated and the rotational frequency is reduced to below 300 rpm.
  • the pH is adjusted to 5.1.
  • the emulsion is packaged in a model F3 or M3 foam from Airspray. The respective care foam can be removed in this way easily and in the correct dosage for the application.
  • the foam is particularly creamy and leaves a moisture-saturated, smooth skin feel after being absorbed into the skin.

Landscapes

  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic care emulsions containing (A) an emulsifier combination composed of at least two W/O emulsifiers that have the same HLB value and are selected from (i) at least one poly(12-hydroxystearic)polyglycerol ester and (ii) at least one silicone emulsifier, and (B) a surfactant combination composed of (iii) at least one anionic surfactant and (iv) at least one amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactant, and (C) 1 to 25 percent by weight of at least one oil or fat component, the percentage being in relation to the total weight of the care emulsion. Said cosmetic care emulsions can be made to foam using a manual pumping dispenser.

Description

Schäumende Emulsionen Foaming emulsions
Die Erfindung betrifft kosmetische schäumende Pflegeemulsionen sowie deren Verwendung als Hautpflegemittel, sowie die Verwendung der Pflegeemulsion in einem manuell betätigbaren Schaumspender.The invention relates to cosmetic foaming care emulsions and their use as skin care products, as well as the use of the care emulsion in a manually operable foam dispenser.
Schäumende Emulsionen sind im Stand der Technik im Prinzip bekannt, doch weisen diese oftmals ungünstige Eigenschaften wie schlechte Verteilbarkeit oder ein stumpfes Hautgefühl nach der Anwendung auf. Daher wurden in jüngster Zeit tensidhaltige Emulsionen entwickelt, die dank eines speziellen Pumpmechanismus mit Luft verschäumt werden und sich als Schaum leichter und gleichmäßiger auf der Haut verteilen lassen. Bei der Weiterentwicklung der verschäumbaren Emulsionen wurde jedoch festgestellt, dass der Schaum nicht fest genug war und schnell brach, wodurch auf der Haut nach der Anwendung ein wässriges und unangenehmes Gefühl hinterlassen wurde.Foaming emulsions are known in the art in principle, but often have unfavorable properties such as poor spreadability or dull skin feel after use. Therefore, surfactant-containing emulsions have recently been developed which, thanks to a special pumping mechanism, are foamed with air and can be distributed more easily and uniformly as a foam on the skin. However, as the foamable emulsions evolved, it was found that the foam was not strong enough and broke rapidly, leaving the skin with a watery and unpleasant feel after application.
Um diese Nachteile zu beseitigen, wurde in der EP 1 496 852 vorgeschlagen, Polyolpoly-12- Hydroxystearate als Emulgatoren mit Tensiden, Ölkörpern, Lichtschutzfiltern und Wasser zu einer Emulsion in einem manuell betätigbaren Pumpspender zu verschäumen. Auch diese Systeme konnten, insbesondere für den Zweck einer kosmetischen Hautpflegeemulsion, hinsichtlich ihrer Schaumqualität und Hautpflegeeigenschaften nicht zufriedenstellen, denn der entstehende Schaum war nicht dicht genug und wies eine rasch eintretende Drainage auf. Durch die Verwendung einer spezifischen Polymerkombination konnte die Schaumstabilität der schäumenden Emulsionen gemäß EP 1 496 852 zunächst verbessert werden. Anhand von Mikroskopaufnahmen war erkennbar, dass es sich um W/O/W-Emulsionen handelte, in der alle drei verschiedenen W/O/W-Micellentypen vorlagen, wobei W/O/W- Micellentyp C das System dominierte. Durch das Vorliegen der unterschiedlichen micellaren Strukturen resultierte aber eine extrem breite Partikelgrößenverteilung, wodurch der Schaum nach wie vor nicht dicht genug war und nach der Applikation zu einem stark klebrigen und stumpfen Hautgefühlt führte.In order to eliminate these disadvantages, it has been proposed in EP 1 496 852 to foam polyol poly-12-hydroxystearates as emulsifiers with surfactants, oil bodies, light protection filters and water to form an emulsion in a manually operated pump dispenser. Also, these systems, especially for the purpose of a cosmetic skincare emulsion, were unsatisfactory in foam quality and skincare properties because the resulting foam was not dense enough to have rapid drainage. By using a specific polymer combination, the foam stability of the foaming emulsions according to EP 1 496 852 was initially improved. Microscope images revealed that they were W / O / W emulsions in which all three different W / O / W micelle types were present, with W / O / W micelle type C dominating the system. However, the presence of the different micellar structures resulted in an extremely broad particle size distribution, as a result of which the foam was still not sufficiently dense and resulted after application in a strongly sticky and dull skin sensation.
Aufgabe der vorliegenden Erfindung war es daher, eine kosmetische Pflegeemulsion herzustellen, die mittels eines manuell betätigbaren Schaumspenders aufschäumbar ist und einen sehr dichten, stabilen aber leichten Schaum bildet, der sich bequem auf der Haut verteilen lässt. Eine weitere Anforderung an die kosmetische Pflegeemulsion war es, bei der Verteilung des Schaums und nach der Absorption ein feuchtigkeitsspendendes, pflegendes Hautgefühl zu hinterlassen.Object of the present invention was therefore to produce a cosmetic care emulsion which is foamable by means of a manually operable foam dispenser and forms a very dense, stable but lightweight foam that can be distributed easily on the skin. Another requirement for the cosmetic care emulsion was to leave a moisturizing, nourishing skin feel when spreading the foam and after absorption.
Überraschend wurde nun gefunden, dass sich diese Eigenschaften erreichen lassen, wenn man zwei spezielle Emulgatoren gleichen HLB-Werts sowie zwei spezielle Tenside zu einer Emulsion, die in einem manuell betätigbaren Schaumspender konfektioniert wird, miteinander kombiniert. Außergewöhnlich an der vorliegenden Erfindung ist, dass einer der Emulgatoren zwingend ein Silikonemulgator ist. Silikone werden üblicherweise chemischen Systemen hinzugefügt, um das Schäumen zu verhindern, daher war es nicht erwartet, den erfindungsgemäßen Effekt mit einem Silikonemulgator zu erzielen. Gegenstand der Erfindung sind daher kosmetische Pflegeemulsionen gemäß Anspruch 1. Erfindungsgemäße Pflegeemulsionen entwickeln beim Aufschäumen einen besonders cremigen, dichten Schaum, der eine stark retardierte Drainage aufweist. Der Schaum hat eine leichte Textur und lässt sich sehr gut auf der Haut verteilen. Durch die Cremigkeit des Schaums werden die vorgenannten Nachteile wie Stumpfheit und Klebrigkeit nach der Absorption des Schaums beseitigt. Stattdessen spürt der Verbraucher bereits während der Verteilung die verbesserte Pflege, die sich nach der Absorption des Schaums in einem mit Feuchtigkeit gesättigten, glatten Hautgefühl ausdrückt.Surprisingly, it has now been found that these properties can be achieved by combining two special emulsifiers of the same HLB value and two special surfactants to form an emulsion, which is packaged in a manually operable foam dispenser. What is exceptional about the present invention is that one of the emulsifiers is necessarily a silicone emulsifier. Silicones are commonly added to chemical systems to prevent foaming, therefore it was not expected to achieve the effect of the invention with a silicone emulsifier. The invention therefore cosmetic care emulsions according to claim 1. Care emulsions according to the invention develop during foaming a particularly creamy, dense foam, which has a strongly retarded drainage. The foam has a light texture and can be spread very well on the skin. The creaminess of the foam eliminates the aforementioned disadvantages such as dullness and stickiness after absorption of the foam. Instead, the consumer already feels the improved care during the distribution, which manifests itself after absorption of the foam in a moisture-saturated, smooth skin feeling.
Unter dem Begriff „Emulsion" wird erfindungsgemäß auf der einen Seite eine homogene Emulsion verstanden, in der die Wasser- und die Ölphase über einen sehr langen Zeitraum stabil ineinander emulgiert vorliegen. Gleichzeitig ist es erfindungsgemäß aber auch möglich, dass die „Emulsion" erst unmittelbar vor dem Aufschäumen (das bedeutet unmittelbar vor der Betätigung des Schaumspenders) hergestellt wird, indem die Öl- und die Wasserphase, die getrennt voneinander vorliegen, durch kräftiges Schütteln kurzzeitig ineinander emulgiert werden. Durch beide Ausführungsformen werden die erfindungsgemäßen Ziele erreicht. Ein zweiter Gegenstand der Erfindung ist Verwendung einer Mischung aus einer Emulgatorkombination (A), enthaltend zwei W/O-Emulgatoren gleichen HLB-Werts, die ausgewählt sind aus:According to the invention, the term "emulsion" on the one hand is understood to mean a homogeneous emulsion in which the water phase and the oil phase are stably emulsified over a very long period of time before foaming (that is, immediately before the foam dispenser is operated) by briefly emulsifying the oil and water phases, which are separate from each other, by vigorous shaking. Both embodiments achieve the objectives of the invention. A second object of the invention is the use of a mixture of an emulsifier combination (A) containing two W / O emulsifiers of the same HLB value, which are selected from:
(i) mindestens einem Poly(12-hydroxystearinsäure)polyglycerinester und(i) at least one poly (12-hydroxystearic acid) polyglycerol ester and
(ii) mindestens einem Silikonemulgator, einer Tensidkombination (B), enthaltend(ii) at least one silicone emulsifier containing a surfactant combination (B)
(iii) mindestens ein anionisches Tensid und(iii) at least one anionic surfactant and
(iv) mindestens ein amphoteres und/oder zwitterionisches Tensid, und(iv) at least one amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactant, and
1 - 25 Gew.-% mindestens einer Öl- oder Fettkomponente, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Pflegeemulsion, zur Herstellung kosmetischer Pflegeemulsionen, die unter Verwendung eines manuellen Pumpspenders aufschäumbar sind und eine leichte Textur sowie eine bessere Verteil barkeit aufweisen.1 - 25 wt .-% of at least one oil or fat component, based on the total weight of the care emulsion, for the preparation of cosmetic care emulsions which are foamable using a manual pump dispenser and have a light texture and better distribution availability.
Ein dritter Gegenstand der Erfindung ist die Verwendung der erfindungsgemäßen Pflegeemulsion zur Verbesserung des Hautgefühls.A third object of the invention is the use of the care emulsion according to the invention for improving the feel of the skin.
Ein vierter Gegenstand der Erfindung ist die Verwendung der erfindungsgemäßen Pflegeemulsion in einem Schaumspender mit Pumpmechanismus zur Verschäumung mit Luft. Unter der Bezeichnung „den gleichen HLB-Wert" wird erfindungsgemäß verstanden, dass sich die HLB-Werte der Emulgatoren um weniger als 1 , bevorzugt weniger als 0,8 und insbesondere weniger als 0,5 unterscheiden.A fourth object of the invention is the use of the care emulsion according to the invention in a foam dispenser with pump mechanism for foaming with air. The term "the same HLB value" is understood according to the invention to mean that the HLB values of the emulsifiers differ by less than 1, preferably less than 0.8 and in particular less than 0.5.
Die Emulgatorauswahl erfolgte sehr behutsam, denn es galt die vorgenannten Probleme zu beseitigen und bekannte Rezepturen zu verbessern. Die Emulgatoren sollten optimalerweise auch zu den pflegenden Eigenschaften der Pflegeemulsionen beitragen, ohne dass negative Wechselwirkungen mit anderen Bestandteilen oder Hautunverträglichkeiten auftraten. Es wurde festgestellt, dass sich für diesen Zweck Emulgatoren eignen, die einen HLB-Wert imThe choice of emulsifier was very careful, because it was necessary to eliminate the aforementioned problems and to improve known recipes. The emulsifiers should optimally also contribute to the nourishing properties of the nourishing emulsions without negative interactions with other constituents or skin intolerances. It has been found that for this purpose emulsifiers are suitable which have an HLB value in the
Bereich von 2 bis 8, bevorzugt von 3 bis 7 und insbesondere im Bereich von 4 bis 6 aufweisen.Range of 2 to 8, preferably from 3 to 7 and in particular in the range of 4 to 6 have.
Emulgatoren mit einem HLB-Wert von 4,5; 4,6; 4,7; 4,8; 4,9; 5,0; 5,1 ; 5,2; 5,3; 5,4 oder 5,5 sind dabei besonders bevorzugt. Außerordentlich bevorzugt sind die Emulgatoren mit einem HLB-Wert von 4,8; 4,9; 5,0; 5,1 oder 5,2.Emulsifiers with an HLB value of 4.5; 4.6; 4.7; 4.8; 4.9; 5.0; 5.1; 5.2; 5.3; 5.4 or 5.5 are particularly preferred. Exceptionally preferred are the emulsifiers having an HLB of 4.8; 4.9; 5.0; 5.1 or 5.2.
Auch das Verhältnis der Emulgatoren in der Pflegeemulsion spielt eine große Rolle zur Entfaltung aller positiven Eigenschaften der Pflegeemulsion. So wurden die besten Ergebnisse erzielt, wenn die Emulgatoren (i) und (ii) in einem Gewichtsverhältnis von 5 : 1 bis 1 : 4, bevorzugt von 3 : 1 bisThe ratio of the emulsifiers in the care emulsion also plays a major role in the development of all positive properties of the care emulsion. Thus, the best results were obtained when the emulsifiers (i) and (ii) in a weight ratio of 5: 1 to 1: 4, preferably from 3: 1 to
1 : 2 und insbesondere von 2 : 1 bis 1 : 1 in den Pflegeemulsionen eingesetzt wurden.1: 2 and in particular from 2: 1 to 1: 1 were used in the care emulsions.
Die Emulgatoren (i) sind im Prinzip bekannte Stoffe, die beispielsweise unter den BezeichnungenThe emulsifiers (i) are in principle known substances, for example, under the names
„Dehymuls® PGPH", „Dehymuls®SBL" oder „Eumulgin® VL 75" von der Firma Cognis im Handel erhältlich sind."Dehymuls® ® PGPH", "Dehymuls® ® SBL" or "Eumulgin ® VL 75" are available from Cognis commercially.
Die Polyolkomponente dieser Emulgatoren weist mindestens zwei, bevorzugt 3 bis 12 und insbesondere 3 bis 8 Hydroxylgruppen sowie 2 bis 12 Kohlenstoffatome auf. Typische Beispiele sind:The polyol component of these emulsifiers has at least two, preferably 3 to 12 and in particular 3 to 8 hydroxyl groups and 2 to 12 carbon atoms. Typical examples are:
- Glycerin und Polyglycerin,- glycerin and polyglycerol,
- Alkylenglycole, wie beispielsweise Ethylenglycole, Diethylenglycol, Propylenglycol,Alkylene glycols, such as, for example, ethylene glycols, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol,
- Methyloylverbindungen, wie Trimethylolethan, Trimethylolpropan, Trimethylolbutan, Pentaerythrit und Dipentaerythrit,Methyloyl compounds, such as trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol,
- Alkylololigoglucoside mit 1 bis 22, bevorzugt 1 bis 16, mehr bevorzugt 1 bis 8 und insbesondere 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen im Alkylrest, wie Methyl- und Butylglucosid,Alkylol oligoglucosides having 1 to 22, preferably 1 to 16, more preferably 1 to 8 and in particular 1 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical, such as methyl and butyl glucoside,
- Zuckeralkohole mit 5 bis 12 C-Atomen, wie beispielsweise Glucose oder Saccharose,- sugar alcohols containing 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glucose or sucrose,
- Aminozucker, wie beispielsweise Glucamin.- Aminosugars, such as glucamine.
Besonders bevorzugt aufgrund ihrer ausgezeichneten anwendungstechnischen Eigenschaften sind Umsetzungsprodukte auf der Basis von Polyglycerin und insbesondere die Umsetzungsprodukte von Poly-12-hydroxystearinsäure mit Polyglycerinen der folgenden Homologenverteilung:Particularly preferred because of their excellent performance properties are reaction products based on polyglycerol and in particular the reaction products of poly-12-hydroxystearic acid with polyglycerols of the following homolog distribution:
Glycerin: 5 bis 35, insbesondere 15 bis 30 Gew.-%,Glycerol: 5 to 35, in particular 15 to 30 wt .-%,
Diglycerin: 15 bis 40, insbesondere 20 bis 32 Gew.-%,Diglycerol: 15 to 40, in particular 20 to 32 wt .-%,
Triglycerin: 10 bis 35, insbesondere 15 bis 25 Gew.-%,Triglycerol: 10 to 35, in particular 15 to 25 wt .-%,
Tetraglycerin: 5 bis 20, insbesondere 8 bis 15 Gew.-%,Tetraglycerol: 5 to 20, in particular 8 to 15,% by weight,
Pentaglycerin: 2 bis 10, insbesondere 3 bis 8 Gew.-%,Pentaglycerin: 2 to 10, especially 3 to 8 wt .-%,
Oligoglycerin: ad 100 Gew.-%.Oligoglycerol: ad 100% by weight.
Erfindungsgemäß insbesondere bevorzugt ist ein PoIy(12-hydroxysterinsäure)polyglycerinester, der von der Firma Cognis im Handel unter der Bezeichnung „Dehymuls® PGPH" als W/O- Emulgator angeboten wird. Dehymuls® PGPH weist nach Herstellerangaben einen HLB-Wert von etwa 5 auf. Er wird in den erfindungsgemäßen Pflegeemulsionen - bezogen auf ihr Gesamtgewicht - in einer Menge von 0,05 bis 20 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,075 bis 15 Gew.-%, mehr bevorzugt von 0,1 bis 12 Gew.-% und insbesondere von 0,15 bis 10 Gew.-% eingesetzt. Der zweite zwingende Emulgator in den erfindungsgemäßen Pflegeemulsionen ist ein Silikonemulgator, insbesondere ein Organopolysiloxan-Polyoxyalkylen-Emulgator, der - bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Pflegeemulsionen - in einer Menge von 0,05 bis 15 Gew.-%, bevorzugt von 0,075 bis 12 Gew.-%, mehr bevorzugt von 0,1 bis 10 Gew.-% und insbesondere von 0,15 bis 7 Gew.-% eingesetzt wird.According to the invention particularly preferably a poly (12-hydroxysterinsäure) is polyglycerol ester, which is sold by the company Cognis under the trade designation "Dehymuls ® PGPH" as W / O emulsifier. Dehymuls® PGPH has according to the manufacturer has an HLB value of from about 5 It is in the care emulsions according to the invention - based on their total weight - in an amount of 0.05 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.075 to 15 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.1 to 12 wt .-% and in particular from 0.15 to 10 wt .-% used. The second obligatory emulsifier in the care emulsions according to the invention is a silicone emulsifier, in particular an organopolysiloxane-polyoxyalkylene emulsifier, which, based on the total weight of the care emulsions, in an amount of 0.05 to 15 wt .-%, preferably from 0.075 to 12 wt. -%, more preferably from 0.1 to 10 wt .-% and in particular from 0.15 to 7 wt .-% is used.
Erfindungsgemäß geeignete Organopolysiloxan-Polyoxyalkylen-Emulgatoren entsprechen der allgemeinen Formel (I),Organopolysiloxane-polyoxyalkylene emulsifiers suitable according to the invention correspond to the general formula (I)
Formel I in der die Reste R1 unabhängig voneinander aliphatische Reste mit 1 bis 25 Kohlenstoffatomen, die Reste R2 unabhängig voneinander aliphatische Reste mit 2 bis 25 Kohlenstoffatomen, die Reste R3 unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff oder aliphatische Reste mit 1 bis 3 Kohlenstoffatomen, der Rest R4 eine anorganische oder Organosiloxan-Gruppe ist, die keine hydrolysierbaren Bindungen enthält, die Reste R5 unabhängig voneinander Endgruppen sind, die mit den Bestandteilen, die den Emulgator stabilisieren sollen, nicht nachteilig reagieren und die Bildung des Organopolysiloxan- Polyoxyalkylens nicht stören, stehen, und x für einen Wert von 1 bis 100, y für einen Wert von O bis 600, z für einen Wert von 1 bis 100 steht, wobei x+y+z mindestens 30 ist, a für einen Wert von 4 bis 40, b für einen Wert von O bis 40 und c für einen Wert von O bis 5 steht, wobei das Verhältnis von a : b 20 : 80 bis 100 : O ist. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt sind Organopolysiloxan-Polyoxyalkylen-Emulgatoren, in denen R1 für Methyl, R2 für C8-Ci8-Alkyl, R3 für Wasserstoff, R4 für -(CH3)2-Si-O-Si-(CH3)2-, R5 für Wasserstoff, x für 5 bis 60, y für O bis 150, z für 1 bis 15, a für 10 bis 30, b für 10 bis 30 und c für O oder 1 steht. Insbesondere bevorzugt sind solche Organopolysiloxan-Polyoxyalkylen- Emulgatoren, in denen R2 für C16-Alkyl, x für 5 bis 50, y für 25 bis 150, z für 1 bis 15 und c für 0 steht und das Verhältnis von a : b bei 40 : 60 bis 70 : 30 liegt.Formula I in which the radicals R1 independently of one another aliphatic radicals having 1 to 25 carbon atoms, the radicals R2 independently of one another aliphatic radicals having 2 to 25 carbon atoms, the radicals R3 are independently hydrogen or aliphatic radicals having 1 to 3 carbon atoms, the radical R4 is an inorganic or organosiloxane group which contains no hydrolyzable bonds, R5's are independently end groups which do not react adversely with the constituents which are to stabilize the emulsifier and do not disturb the formation of the organopolysiloxane-polyoxyalkylene, and x represents a Is from 1 to 100, y is from 0 to 600, z is from 1 to 100, where x + y + z is at least 30, a is from 4 to 40, b is a value from 0 to 40 and c represents a value of O to 5, wherein the ratio of a: b is 20:80 to 100: 0. According to the invention are particularly preferred organopolysiloxane-polyoxyalkylene emulsifiers in which R1 is methyl, R2 is C 8 -C 8 alkyl, R3 is hydrogen, R4 is - (CH 3) 2 -Si-O-Si- (CH 3) 2 R5 is hydrogen, x is 5 to 60, y is 0 to 150, z is 1 to 15, a is 10 to 30, b is 10 to 30 and c is O or 1. Particularly preferred are such organopolysiloxane-polyoxyalkylene Emulsifiers in which R 2 is C 16 -alkyl, x is 5 to 50, y is 25 to 150, z is 1 to 15 and c is 0 and the ratio of a: b is 40:60 to 70:30.
Ein Beispiel für einen solchen insbesondere bevorzugten Silikonemulgator ist der unter der INCI-An example of such a particularly preferred silicone emulsifier is that under the INCI
Bezeichnung „Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1-Dimethicone" (vormals: Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol) und dem Handelsnamen „Abil EM 90" von der Firma Goldschmidt vertriebene W/O-Emulgator. Abil®Designation "Cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1-Dimethicone" (formerly: Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol) and the trade name "Abil EM 90" W / O emulsifier sold by Goldschmidt. Abil.RTM
EM 90 weist nach Herstellerangaben einen HLB-Wert von etwa 5 auf.EM 90 has an HLB value of about 5 according to the manufacturer.
Beide erfindungsgemäß bevorzugten Emulgatortypen sind dafür bekannt, dass man mit ihnen besonders stabile W/O/W-Emulsionen herstellen kann, weshalb erwartet wurde, dass sich durch die Kombination der Emulgatoren eine stabile W/O/W-Emulsion vom Typ B oder C ausbildet.Both types of emulsifier which are preferred according to the invention are known to be able to produce particularly stable W / O / W emulsions with them, which is why it was expected that a stable W / O / W emulsion of type B or C would be formed by the combination of the emulsifiers ,
Dies war aber nicht der Fall, wie aus Mikroskopaufnahmen deutlich erkennbar war. Die mikroskopische Betrachtung zeigte, dass es sich bei den erfindungsgemäßen Emulsionen um eine Kombination verschiedener Emulsionssysteme handelte. Man konnte sowohl W/O/W-However, this was not the case, as was clearly recognizable from microscope images. Microscopic observation showed that the emulsions according to the invention were a combination of different emulsion systems. One could see both W / O / W
Emulsionszellen des Typs A, als auch O/W-Emulsionszellen erkennen, in denen sich die Größe der Emulsionszellen parallel zum Emulsionstyp deutlich verändert hatte. Die Micellengröße derA-type emulsion cells, as well as O / W emulsion cells recognize in which the size of the emulsion cells had changed significantly parallel to the emulsion type. The micelle size of the
W/O/W-Emulsionszellen des Typs A war im Vergleich zu den Micellengrößen, die mit DehymulsType A W / O / W emulsion cells were compared to micelle sizes with Dehymuls
PGPH als alleinigem Emulgator ausgebildet wurden, wesentlich geringer.PGPH were formed as the sole emulsifier, much lower.
Daraus resultierte - trotz der verschiedenen Emulsionstypen in den erfindungsgemäßenThis resulted - despite the different emulsion types in the inventive
Pflegeemulsionen - eine sehr enge Partikelgrößenverteilung mit außerordentlich hoherCare emulsions - a very narrow particle size distribution with exceptionally high
Packungsdichte, was für die Bildung des cremigen, pflegenden Schaums essentiell ist.Packing density, which is essential for the formation of the creamy, nourishing foam.
In einer bevorzugten Ausführungsform umfasst die erfindungsgemäße Pflegeemulsion daher verschiedene Emulsionstypen, die ausgewählt sind aus W/O/W-Emulsionen des Typs A, B und C, insbesondere des Typs A, sowie O/W-Emulsionszellen.In a preferred embodiment, the care emulsion according to the invention therefore comprises various emulsion types which are selected from W / O / W emulsions of the type A, B and C, in particular of the type A, and O / W emulsion cells.
Zur Erhöhung der Schaumbildung und -Stabilisierung enthalten die erfindungsgemäßenTo increase the foam formation and stabilization contain the inventive
Pflegeemulsionen zwingend Tenside anionischer sowie amphoterer und/oder zwitterionischerCare emulsions mandatory surfactants anionic and amphoteric and / or zwitterionic
Natur. Auch bei den Tensiden musste eine behutsame Auswahl stattfinden, denn einerseits sollten die Tenside besonders mild sein, um eine hautschonende Behandlung ohne das Auftreten von Hautirritationen zu gewährleisten, und andererseits sollten die Tenside eine ausreichendeNature. Even with the surfactants, a careful selection had to take place, because on the one hand, the surfactants should be particularly mild to ensure a skin-friendly treatment without the appearance of skin irritation, and on the other hand, the surfactants should have a sufficient
Schaumbildung gewährleisten, um für die erfindungsgemäße Applikation in einem manuell betätigbaren Schaumspender geeignet zu sein.To ensure foaming in order to be suitable for the application according to the invention in a manually operable foam dispenser.
Als erfindungsgemäß geeignete Tensidkombination zur Erfüllung der vorgenannten Erfordernisse haben sich milde anionische und milde amphotere/zwitterionische Tenside herausgestellt, die ausgewählt sind aus einem oder mehreren Tensiden der Gruppe (iii) der Acylaminosäuren, alpha-As suitable surfactant combination according to the invention for the fulfillment of the aforementioned requirements, mild anionic and mild amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants have been found, which are selected from one or more surfactants of group (iii) of the acylamino acids, alpha
Olefinsulfonate, ethoxylierten Alkylschwefelsäurester, Sulfobernsteinsäureester,Olefinsulfonates, ethoxylated alkylsulfuric acid esters, sulfosuccinic acid esters,
Ethercarbonsäuren und/oder den Salzen dieser Verbindungen, sowie aus einem oder mehrerenEthercarbonsäuren and / or the salts of these compounds, as well as one or more
Tensiden der Gruppe (iv) der Alkylbetaine, Sulfobetaine, Alkylamidoalkylbetaine,Surfactants of the group (iv) of the alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, alkylamidoalkylbetaines,
Aminopropionate, Aminoglycinate und/oder Imidazoliniumbetaine und/oder den Salzen dieserAminopropionates, aminoglycinates and / or imidazolinium betaines and / or the salts thereof
Verbindungen.Links.
Unter den erfindungsgemäß geeigneten anionischen Tensiden (iii) sind Verbindungen zu verstehen, die unter den Natrium-, Kalium- und Ammonium- sowie der Mono-, Di- und Trialkanol- ammoniumsalzen mit 2 bis 4 C-Atomen in der Alkanolgruppe, der Ethercarbonsäuren der Formel R-O-(CH2-CH2θ)χ-CH2-COOH, in der R eine lineareThe anionic surfactants (iii) which are suitable according to the invention are compounds which are among the sodium, potassium and ammonium mono- and mono-, di- and trialkanol ammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group, the Ethercarbonsäuren the formula RO- (CH2-CH2θ) χ -CH2-COOH, in which R is a linear
Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 16 ist,Alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,
Acylsarcoside mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
Acyltauride mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
Acylisethionate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
Acylglutamate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,Acylglutamates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- und -dialkylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe undSulfobernsteinsäuremono- and -dialkylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and
Sulfobernsteinsäuremono-alkylpolyoxyethylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und 1 bis 6 Oxyethylgruppen, lineare Alpha-Olefinsulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,Sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
- Alkylsulfate und Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate der Formel R-O(CH2-CH2O)x-OSO3H, in der R eine bevorzugt lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 12, ausgewählt sind.- Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x -OSO 3 H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12, are selected.
Besonders geeignete anionische Tenside (iii) in den erfindungsgemäßen Pflegeemulsionen sind aufgrund ihrer ausgezeichneten Milde und Schäumbarkeit die Sulfobernsteinsäuremonoester- Salze von Fettalkoholen und Fettalkoholpolyglycolethern der allgemeinen FormelParticularly suitable anionic surfactants (iii) in the care emulsions according to the invention are, because of their excellent mildness and foamability, the sulfosuccinic acid monoester salts of fatty alcohols and fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers of the general formula
R1-O-(CH2-CH2-O)n-CO-CH2-CH(SO3 ")-COO" M2 +, in der R1 eine Alkylgruppe mit 12 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatomen, n einen Mittelwert von 0-6 aufweist und M ein Alkalikation, bevorzugt Natrium, ist. Insbesondere geeignet sind Sulfobernsteinsäuremonoester-Salze der FormelR 1 O (CH 2 -CH 2 -O) n -CO-CH 2 -CH (SO 3 " ) -COO " M 2 + , in which R 1 is an alkyl group having 12 to 18 carbon atoms, n is an average value of 0- 6 and M is an alkali cation, preferably sodium. Particularly suitable sulfosuccinic acid monoester salts of the formula
RI-O-(CH2-CH2-O)n-CO-CH2-CH(SO3Na)-COONa, in der R1 eine Alkylgruppe mit 12 bis 16 Kohlenstoffatomen und n einen Mittelwert von 1-6 aufweist. Solche Produkte mit n=3 sind unter der Handelsbezeichnung Texapon® SB 30 von der Firma Cognis im Handel erhältlich. Das oder die anionische(n) Tensid(e) wird (werden) in den erfindungsgemäßen PflegeemulsionenRI-O- (CH 2 -CH 2 -O) n -CO-CH 2 -CH (SO 3 Na) -COONa wherein R 1 has an alkyl group of 12 to 16 carbon atoms and n has a mean of 1-6. Such products with n = 3 are available under the trade name Texapon.RTM ® SB 30 by Cognis commercially. The anionic surfactant (s) is (are) in the care emulsions of the invention
- bezogen auf ihr Gesamtgewicht - bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,1 bis 20 Gew.-%, bevorzugt von 0,2 bis 15 Gew.-% und insbesondere in Mengen von 0,5 bis 9 Gew.-% eingesetzt. Erfindungsgemäß geeignete zwitterionische Tenside sind die sogenannten Betaine wie die Alkylbetaine, N-Alkyl-N,N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, beispielsweise das Kokosalkyldimethyl- ammoniumglycinat, N-Acyl-aminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, beispielsweise das Ko- kosacylaminopropyl-dimethylammoniumglycinat, und 2-Alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl- imidazoline mit jeweils 8 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Alkyl- oder Acylgruppe sowie das Kokosacyl- aminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat.- Based on their total weight - preferably used in amounts of 0.1 to 20 wt .-%, preferably from 0.2 to 15 wt .-% and in particular in amounts of 0.5 to 9 wt .-%. Zwitterionic surfactants which are suitable according to the invention are the so-called betaines such as the alkylbetaines, N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example the cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinates, for example the cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and Alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazoline having in each case 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the Kokosacyl- aminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat.
Ein erfindungsgemäß bevorzugtes zwitterionisches Tensid ist das unter der INCI-Bezeichnung Cocamidopropyl Betaine bekannte Fettsäureamid-Derivat.A preferred zwitterionic surfactant according to the invention is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
Beispiele für erfindungsgemäß geeignete ampholytische Tenside sind N-Alkylglycine, N- Alkylpropionsäuren, N-Alkylaminobuttersäuren, N-Alkyliminodipropionsäuren, N-Hydroxyethyl-N- alkylamidopropylglycine, N-Alkyltaurine, N-Alkylsarcosine, 2-Alkylaminopropionsäuren und Alkylaminoessigsäuren mit jeweils etwa 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte ampholytische Tenside sind das N-Kokosalkylaminopropionat, das Kokosacylaminoethylaminopropionat und das C12 - C18 - Acylsarcosin.Examples of ampholytic surfactants suitable according to the invention are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N- Alkylamidopropylglycine, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-Alkylaminopropionsäuren and Alkylaminoessigsäuren each having about 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Ampholytic surfactants preferred according to the invention are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C 12 -C 18 -acylsarcosine.
Besonders geeignete amphotere und/oder zwitterionische Tenside (iv) in den erfindungsgemäßen Pflegeemulsionen sind aufgrund ihrer ausgezeichneten Milde und Schäumbarkeit Ampho- und Betaintenside, die eine Alkyl- bzw. Acylgruppe mit 8 bis 10 Kohlenstoffatomen aufweisen, insbesondere Betaintenside der FormelParticularly suitable amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants (iv) in the care emulsions according to the invention are, due to their excellent mildness and foamability, ampho- and betaine surfactants which have an alkyl or acyl group with 8 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular betaine surfactants of the formula
R2CONH(CH2)m-N+(CH3)2-COO", in der R2CO eine von Capryl- und Caprinsäure abgeleitete Gruppe und m=3 ist. Ein solches Tensid ist als besonders haut- und schleimhautfreundliches sowie reizarmes Betaintensid bekannt, und unter der Bezeichnung Tego Betain 810 von der Firma Goldschmidt im Handel erhältlich.R2CONH (CH 2) m -N + (CH 3) 2 -COO ", a group derived from caprylic acid and capric acid group in the R 2 CO and m = 3. Such surfactant is known to be particularly irritating to skin and mucous-friendly and low-betaine, and commercially available under the name Tego Betain 810 from Goldschmidt.
Das oder die amphotere(n) und/oder zwitterionische(n) Tensid(e) wird (werden) in den erfindungsgemäßen Pflegeemulsionen - bezogen auf ihr Gesamtgewicht - bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,1 bis 20 Gew.-%, bevorzugt von 0,2 bis 15 Gew.-% und insbesondere in Mengen von 0,5 bis 9 Gew.-% eingesetzt.The amphoteric (s) and / or zwitterionic surfactant (s) is (are) in the care emulsions according to the invention - based on their total weight - preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 20 wt .-%, preferably from 0, 2 to 15 wt .-% and in particular in amounts of 0.5 to 9 wt .-% used.
In einer weiteren bevorzugten Ausführungsform der Erfindung werden den Pflegeemulsionen zusätzlich zu den vorgenannten zwingenden Komponenten weiterhin Stoffe zur Erhöhung der Emulsions- und Schaumstabilität zugesetzt. Es wurde gefunden, dass sich eine besonders gute Schaumstabilisierung erzielen lässt, wenn eine Kombination verschiedener Polymere verwendet wurde. Als insbesondere geeignet für die erfindungsgemäßen Pflegeemulsionen hat sich die Kombination aus mindestens zwei Polymeren erwiesen, von denen eines natürlichen und das andere synthetischen Ursprungs ist.In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, in addition to the abovementioned mandatory components, the care emulsions are further added with substances for increasing the emulsion and foam stability. It has been found that a particularly good foam stabilization can be achieved if a combination of different polymers was used. As particularly suitable for the care emulsions according to the invention, the combination of at least two polymers has proven, one of which is natural and the other of synthetic origin.
Erfindungsgemäß geeignete Polymere natürlichen Ursprungs basieren auf Xanthan Gum, Guar Gum, Alginaten und/oder Carrageenaten. Als besonders bevorzugt haben sich Polymere herausgestellt, die sich aus Alginaten herstellen lassen, wobei insbesondere veresterte Alginate erfindungsgemäß geeignet sind. Neben der schäum- und emulsionsstabilisierenden Wirkung haben diese Verbindungen den Vorteil, dass sie dazu beitragen können, den Wasserverlust in der Haut reduzieren, wodurch sie die feuchtigkeitsspendende Wirkung der erfindungsgemäßen Pflegeemulsionen zusätzlich unterstützen.Polymers of natural origin which are suitable according to the invention are based on xanthan gum, guar gum, alginates and / or carrageenates. As particularly preferred polymers have been found that can be prepared from alginates, wherein in particular esterified alginates are suitable according to the invention. In addition to the foam- and emulsion-stabilizing effect, these compounds have the advantage that they can help to reduce the loss of water in the skin, thereby additionally supporting the moisturizing effect of the care emulsions according to the invention.
Besonders geeignete Alginatester werden aus Alginaten hergestellt, die mit einem oder mehreren CrCβ-Alkoholen, welche eine oder mehrere Hydroxygruppen tragen können, verestert werden. Insbesondere geeignet sind Propylenglycolalginate, die durch die Umsetzung eines Alginats mit Propylenoxid bei hohen Temperaturen entstehen. Solche veresterten Alginate sind beispielsweise von der Firma FMC Biopolymers unter der Bezeichnung „Protanal Ester" im Handel erhältlich. Protanal Ester® CF ist für die erfindungsgemäße Pflegeemulsion besonders bevorzugt, denn er weist in wässrigen, alkoholischen oder wässrig alkoholischen Lösungen eine niedrige Viskosität auf, was sich auf die leichte Verschäumbarkeit der Pflegeemulsionen positiv auswirkt. Die Polymere natürlichen Ursprungs werden in den erfindungsgemäßen Pflegeemulsionen - bezogen auf deren Gesamtgewicht - bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,01 bis 10 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt von 0,05 bis 5 Gew.-% und außerordentlich bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,1 bis 2 Gew.-% eingesetzt.Particularly suitable alginate esters are prepared from alginates which are esterified with one or more CrCβ alcohols which can carry one or more hydroxy groups. Particularly suitable are propylene glycol alginates, which are formed by the reaction of an alginate with propylene oxide at high temperatures. Such esterified alginates are available, for example from FMC Biopolymers under the name "Protanal ester" in the trade. Protanal ester ® CF is particularly preferred for the inventive care emulsion, because it has a low viscosity in aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous alcoholic solutions, which has a positive effect on the easy foamability of the care emulsions. The polymers of natural origin are in the care emulsions according to the invention - based on their total weight - preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 5 wt .-% and most preferably in amounts of 0.1 used up to 2 wt .-%.
Geeignete synthetische Polymere sind ausgewählt aus anionischen Homo- und Copolymeren aus unvernetzten und vernetzten Polyacrylsäuren, die teilweise oder vollständig neutralisiert sind. Besonders bevorzugte anionische Homo- und Copolymere sind hierbei vernetzte Polyacrylsäuren, die teilweise oder vollständig neutralisiert sind. Solche Polymere sind zum Beispiel die Handelsprodukte der Carbopol®-Serie, wie Carbopol® 934, 940, 941 , Carbopol® Ultrez 10, Carbopol® ETD 2001 und 2050 sowie die Produkte Teqo Carbomer 140 und 141 und Synthalen® L. Die Polyacrylsäuren werden in den erfindungsgemäßen Pflegeemulsionen - bezogen auf deren Gesamtgewicht - bevorzugt in einer Menge von 0,01 bis 4 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt von 0,02 bis 2 Gew.-% und außerordentlich bevorzugt in einer Menge von 0,03 bis 1 Gew.-% eingesetzt.Suitable synthetic polymers are selected from anionic homopolymers and copolymers of uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids, which are partially or completely neutralized. Particularly preferred anionic homo- and copolymers here are crosslinked polyacrylic acids which are partially or completely neutralized. Such polymers are for example the commercial products of the Carbopol ® series, such as Carbopol ® 934, 940, 941, Carbopol ® Ultrez 10, Carbopol ® ETD 2001 and 2050 as well as the products Teqo Carbomer 140 and 141 and Synthalen ® L. The polyacrylic acids in the care emulsions according to the invention - based on their total weight - preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 4 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.02 to 2 wt .-% and most preferably in an amount of 0.03 to 1 wt. -% used.
Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte synthetische Polymere sind Polyaryloyldimethyltaurate, wie beispielsweise die vernetztenAcryloyldimethyltaurat-Acrylamid-Copolymere mit dem Handelsnamen Sepigel® 305 oder Simulgel® 600 der Firma Seppic, die Homopolymere der 2- Acrylamido-2-methylpropansulfonsäure (Acyloyldimethyltaurin), die gegebenenfalls vernetzt und/oder neutralisiert sein können, wie beispielsweise Poly(2-acrylamido-2- methylpropansulfonsäure), die von der Firma Hoechst unter dem Handelsnamen Hostacerin® AMPS oder von der Firma Seppic unter dem Handelsnamen Simulgel® 800 vertrieben wird, und Copolymere der 2-Acrylamido-2-methylpropansulfonsäure und Hydroxyethylacrylate, wie beispielsweise die unter den Handelnamen Sepinov® EMT 10 oder Simulgel® NS von der Firma Seppic vertriebenen Handelsprodukte.Further according to the invention preferred synthetic polymers are Polyaryloyldimethyltaurate, such as the vernetztenAcryloyldimethyltaurat-acrylamide copolymers with the trade name Sepigel ® 305 or Simulgel ® 600 from Seppic, the homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (Acyloyldimethyltaurin), optionally crosslinked and / or may be neutralized, such as poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid), which is marketed by the company Hoechst under the trade name Hostacerin ® AMPS or by the company Seppic under the trade name Simulgel ® 800, and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2 -methylpropansulfonsäure and hydroxyethyl acrylates, such as the commercial products under the trade names NS Sepinov ® EMT 10 or Simulgel ® sold by the company SEPPIC.
Die Polyacryloyldimethyltaurate werden in den erfindungsgemäßen Pflegeemulsionen - bezogen auf deren Gesamtgewicht - bevorzugt in einer Menge von 0,01 bis 5 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt von 0,02 bis 2 Gew.-% und außerordentlich bevorzugt in einer Menge von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-% eingesetzt.The polyacryloyldimethyltaurates are in the care emulsions according to the invention - based on their total weight - preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.02 to 2 wt .-% and most preferably in an amount of 0.05 used to 1 wt .-%.
Als besonders geeignet für die Herstellung der erfindungsgemäßen Pflegeemulsionen hat sich die Kombination einer Polyacrylsäure mit einem Polyacryloyldimethyltaurat erwiesen, wobei die beste Schaum- und Emulsionsstabilisierung durch die Kombination der beiden Polymere Tego Carbomer® 140 und Sepinov® EMT 10 erzielt werden konnte. In einer besonders bevorzugten Ausführungsform der Erfindung eignet sich als Polymerkombination zur optimalen Schaum- und Emulsionsstabilisierung insbesondere die Kombination eines Alginatesters mit einer Polyacrylsäure und einem Polyacryloyldimethyltaurat, und insbesondere die Kombination der Handelsprodukte Protanal Ester® CF, Tego Carbomer® 140 und Sepinov® EMT 10.To be particularly suitable for the preparation of care emulsions according to the invention, the combination of a polyacrylic acid has been found with a polyacryloyl dimethyl taurate, wherein the best foam and emulsion stabilization was achieved by the combination of the two polymers Tego Carbomer ® 140 and Sepinov ® EMT 10th In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention is a suitable polymer combination for optimal foam and emulsion stabilization, especially the combination of alginate with a polyacrylic acid and a polyacryloyl dimethyl taurate, and in particular the combination of the commercial products Protanal Ester ® CF, Tego Carbomer ® 140 and Sepinov ® EMT 10th
Die zur Herstellung der erfindungsgemäßen Pflegemulsionen ebenfalls zwingend erforderliche Ölkompomponente muss hautpflegende Eigenschaften aufweisen, mit den vorgenannten, zwingenden Komponenten leicht emulgierbar sein und die Emulsionsstabilität nicht negativ beeinflussen. Des Weiteren darf die Ölkomponente die Schaumentwicklung sowie die Sensorik des Schaums nicht beeinträchtigen. Unter diesen Voraussetzungen sind sie folgenden natürlichen und synthetischen Ölkomponenten und/oder Fettstoffe erfindungsgemäß geeignet:The essential oil component for the preparation of the care emulsions according to the invention must also have skin-care properties, be easily emulsified with the abovementioned, compelling components and not adversely affect the emulsion stability influence. Furthermore, the oil component must not affect the foaming and the sensor of the foam. Under these conditions, they are suitable for the following natural and synthetic oil components and / or fatty substances according to the invention:
- natürliche (pflanzliche) Öle: dabei handelt es sich üblicherweise um Triglyceride und Mischungen von Triglyceriden. Bevorzugte natürliche Öle im Sinne der Erfindung sind Kokosnussöl, (süßes) Mandelöl, Walnussöl, Pfirsichkernöl, Aprikosenkernöl, Avocadoöl, Teebaumöl (Tea Tree OiI), Sojaöl, Sesamöl, Sonnenblumenöl, Tsubakiöl, Nachtkerzenöl, Reiskleieöl, Palmkernöl, Mangokernöl, Wiesenschaumkrautöl, Distelöl, Macadamianussöl, Traubenkernöl, Amaranthsamenöl, Arganöl, Bambusöl, Olivenöl, Weizenkeimöl, Kürbiskernöl, Malvenöl, Haselnussöl, Safloröl, Canolaöl, Sasanquaöl, Jojobaöl, Kakaoabutter und Shea-Butter.- Natural (vegetable) oils: these are usually triglycerides and mixtures of triglycerides. Preferred natural oils according to the invention are coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango seed oil, meadowfoam seed oil, thistle oil, Macadamia nut oil, grape seed oil, amaranth seed oil, argan oil, bamboo oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter and shea butter.
- mineralische Öle: als mineralische Öle kommen insbesondere Mineralöle, Paraffin- und Isoparaffinöle sowie synthetische Kohlenwasserstoffe zum Einsatz. Ein erfindungsgemäß einsetzbarer Kohlenwasserstoff ist beispielsweise das als Handelsprodukt erhältliche 1 ,3-Di-(2- ethylhexyl)-cyclohexan (Cetiol® S).- mineral oils: as mineral oils in particular mineral oils, paraffin and isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons are used. An inventively employable hydrocarbon is for example that available as a commercial product 1, 3-di- (2-ethylhexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ® S).
- snthetische Öle: als synthetische Öle kommen auch Silikonverbindungen wie Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone und Amodimethicone in Betracht.- Snthetische oils: as synthetic oils are also silicone compounds such as Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone and Amodimethicone into consideration.
Als Ölkomponente kann weiterhin ein Dialkylether dienen.As the oil component may further serve a dialkyl ether.
Erfindungsgemäß einsetzbare Dialkylether sind insbesondere Di-n-alkylether mit insgesamt zwischen 12 bis 36 C-Atomen, insbesondere 12 bis 24 C-Atomen, wie beispielsweise Di-n- octylether, Di-n-decylether, Di-n-nonylether, Di-n-undecylether, Di-n-dodecylether, n-Hexyl-n- octylether, n-Octyl-n-decylether, n-Decyl-n-undecylether, n-Undecyl-n-dodecylether und n-Hexyl- n-undecylether sowie Di-tert.-butylether, Di-iso-pentylether, Di-3-ethyldecylether, tert.-Butyl-n- octylether, iso-Pentyl-n-octylether und 2-Methylpentyl-n-octylether. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt ist der Di-n-octylether, der im Handel unter der Bezeichnung Cetiol® OE erhältlich ist.Dialkyl ethers which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-alkyl ether. n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and Di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyl decyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methylpentyl-n-octyl ether. According to the invention particularly preferred is the di-n-octyl ether, which is commercially available under the name Cetiol ® OE.
Unter erfindungsgemäß geeigneten Fettstoffen sind Fettsäuren, Fettalkohole sowie natürliche und synthetische Wachse zu verstehen, welche sowohl in fester Form als auch flüssig in wässriger Dispersion vorliegen können.Fatty substances which are suitable according to the invention are fatty acids, fatty alcohols and natural and synthetic waxes which may be present in solid form as well as liquid in aqueous dispersion.
Als Fettsäuren können eingesetzt werden lineare und/oder verzweigte, gesättigte und/oder ungesättigte Fettsäuren mit 6 - 30 Kohlenstoffatomen. Bevorzugt sind Fettsäuren mit 10 - 22 Kohlenstoffatomen. Hierunter wären beispielsweise zu nennen die Isostearinsäuren, wie die Handelsprodukte Emersol®871 und Emersol® 875, und Isopalmitinsäuren wie das Handelsprodukt Edenor® IP 95, sowie alle weiteren unter den Handelsbezeichnungen Edenor® (Cognis) vertriebenen Fettsäuren. Weitere typische Beispiele für solche Fettsäuren sind Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, 2-Ethylhexansäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Isotridecansäure, My- ristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmitoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Elaeostearinsäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure und Erucasäure sowie deren technische Mischungen, die z.B. bei der Druckspaltung von natürlichen Fetten und Ölen, bei der Oxidation von Aldehyden aus der Roelen'schen Oxosynthese oder der Dimerisierung von ungesättigten Fettsäuren anfallen. Besonders bevorzugt sind üblicherweise die Fettsäureschnitte, welche aus Cocosöl oder Palmöl erhältlich sind; insbesondere bevorzugt ist in der Regel der Einsatz von Stearinsäure. Als Fettalkohole können eingesetzt werden gesättigte, ein- oder mehrfach ungesättigte, verzweigte oder unverzweigte Fettalkohole mit C6 - C30-, bevorzugt C10 - C22- und ganz besonders bevorzugt C12 - C22- Kohlenstoffatomen. Einsetzbar im Sinne der Erfindung sind beispielsweise Decanol, Octanol, Octenol, Dodecenol, Decenol, Octadienol, Dodecadienol, Decadienol, Oleylalkohol, Erucaalkohol, Ricinolalkohol, Stearylalkohol, Isostearylalkohol, Cetylalkohol, Laurylalkohol, Myristylalkohol, Arachidylalkohol, Caprylalkohol, Caprinalkohol, Linoleylalkohol, Linolenylalkohol und Behenylalkohol, sowie deren Guerbetalkohole, wobei diese Aufzählung beispielhaften und nicht limitierenden Charakter haben soll. Die Fettalkohole stammen jedoch von bevorzugt natürlichen Fettsäuren ab, wobei üblicherweise von einer Gewinnung aus den Estern der Fettsäuren durch Reduktion ausgegangen werden kann. Erfindungsgemäß einsetzbar sind ebenfalls solche Fettalkoholschnitte, die durch Reduktion natürlich vorkommender Triglyceride wie Rindertalg, Palmöl, Erdnussöl, Rüböl, Baumwollsaatöl, Sojaöl, Sonnenblumenöl und Leinöl oder aus deren Umesterungsprodukten mit entsprechenden Alkoholen entstehenden Fettsäureestern erzeugt werden, und somit ein Gemisch von unterschiedlichen Fettalkoholen darstellen. Solche Substanzen sind beispielsweise unter den Bezeichnungen Stenol®, z.B. Stenol® 1618 oder Lanette®, z.B. Lanette® O oder Lorol®, z.B. Lorol® C8, Lorol® C14, Lorol® C18, Lorol® C8-18, HD-Ocenol®, Crodacol®, z.B. Crodacol® CS, Novol®, Eutanol® G, Guerbitol® 16, Guerbitol® 18, Guerbitol® 20, Isofol® 12, Isofol® 16, lsofol® 24, Isofol® 36, Isocarb® 12, Isocarb® 16 oder Isocarb® 24 käuflich zu erwerben. Selbstverständlich können erfindungsgemäß auch Wollwachsalkohole, wie sie beispielsweise unter den Bezeichnungen Corona®, White Swan®, Coronet® oder Fluilan® käuflich zu erwerben sind, eingesetzt werden. Als natürliche oder synthetische Wachse können erfindungsgemäß eingesetzt werden feste Paraffine oder Isoparaffine, Carnaubawachse, Bienenwachse, Candelillawachse, Ozokerite, Ceresin, Walrat, Sonnenblumenwachs, Fruchtwachse wie beispielsweise Apfelwachs oder Citruswachs, Microwachse aus PE- oder PP. Derartige Wachse sind beispielsweise erhältlich über die Fa. Kahl & Co., Trittau. Weitere Fettstoffe sind beispielsweiseThe fatty acids used can be linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ® 871 and Emersol ® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ® (Cognis) fatty acids. Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linoleic and erucic acid and their technical mixtures, which are obtained, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Especially preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred. As fatty alcohols it is possible to use saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C 6 -C 30 -, preferably C 10 -C 22 - and very particularly preferably C 12 -C 22 -carbon atoms. Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character. However, the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction. Also usable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reduction of naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ® such as Stenol ® 1618 or Lanette ® such as Lanette ® O or Lorol ®, for example, Lorol ® C8, Lorol C14 ®, Lorol C18 ®, ® Lorol C8-18, HD-Ocenol ®, Crodacol ® such as Crodacol ® CS, Novol ®, Eutanol ® G, Guerbitol ® 16, Guerbitol ® 18, Guerbitol ® 20, Isofol ® 12, Isofol ® 16, lsofol ® 24, Isofol ® 36, Isocarb ® 12, Isocarb ® 16 or acquire Isocarb® ® 24 for sale. Of course, wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ®, White Swan ®, Coronet ® or Fluilan ® can be used according to the invention. The natural or synthetic waxes used according to the invention are solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP. Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau. Other fatty substances are, for example
Esteröle. Unter Esterölen sind zu verstehen die Ester von C6 - C30 - Fettsäuren mit C2 - C30 - Fettalkoholen. Bevorzugt sind die Monoester der Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen mit 2 bis 24 C- Atomen. Beispiele für eingesetzte Fettsäurenanteile in den Estern sind Capronsäure, Capryl- säure, 2-Ethylhexansäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Isotridecansäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmitoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Elaeostearinsäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure und Erucasäure sowie deren technische Mischungen, die z.B. bei der Druckspaltung von natürlichen Fetten und Ölen, bei der Oxidation von Aldehyden aus der Roelen'schen Oxosynthese oder der Dimerisierung von ungesättigten Fettsäuren anfallen. Beispiele für die Fettalkoholanteile in den Esterölen sind Isopropylalkohol, Capronalkohol, Caprylalkohol, 2-Ethylhexylalkohol, Caprinalkohol, Laurylalkohol, Isotridecylalkohol, My- ristylalkohol, Cetylalkohol, Palmoleylalkohol, Stearylalkohol, Isostearylalkohol, Oleylalkohol, Elaidylalkohol, Petroselinylalkohol, Linolylalkohol, Linolenylalkohol, Elaeostearylalkohol, Arachylalkohol, Gadoleylalkohol, Behenylalkohol, Erucylalkohol und Brassidylalkohol sowie deren technische Mischungen, die z.B. bei der Hochdruckhydrierung von technischen Methylestern auf Basis von Fetten und Ölen oder Aldehyden aus der Roelen'schen Oxosynthese sowie als Monomerfraktion bei der Dimerisierung von ungesättigten Fettalkoholen anfallen. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt sind Isopropylmyristat (Rilanit® IPM), lsononansäure-C16-18-alkylester (Cetiol® SN), 2-Ethylhexylpalmitat (Cegesoft® 24), Stearinsäure-2-ethylhexylester (Cetiol® 868), Cetyloleat, Glycerintricaprylat, Kokosfettalkohol- caprinat/-caprylat (Cetiol® LC), n-Butylstearat, Oleylerucat (Cetiol® J 600), Isopropylpalmitat (Rilanit® IPP), Oleyl Oleate (Cetiol®), Laurinsäurehexylester (Cetiol® A), Di-n-butyladipat (Cetiol® B), Myristylmyristat (Cetiol® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol® SN), Ölsäuredecylester (Cetiol® V).Esteröle. Ester oils are to be understood as meaning the esters of C 6 - C 30 fatty acids with C 2 - C 30 fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic Behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures which are obtained, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Examples of the fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myrotic alcohol, ristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, for example in the high pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols incurred. According to the invention, particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprate / caprylate (Cetiol ® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (IPP Rilanit ®), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ® MM), cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol ® SN), oleic acid decyl ester (Cetiol ® V).
Dicarbonsäureester wie Di-n-butyladipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-adipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-succinat und Di-isotridecylacelaat sowie Diolester wie Ethylenglykol-dioleat, Ethylenglykol-di- isotridecanoat, Propylenglykol-di(2-ethylhexanoat), Propylenglykol-di-isostearat, Propylenglykol-di-pelargonat, Butandiol-di-isostearat, Neopentylglykoldicaprylat, symmetrische, unsymmetrische oder cyclische Ester der Kohlensäure mit Fettalkoholen, Glycerincarbonat oder Dicaprylylcarbonat (Cetiol® CC), ethoxylierte oder nicht ethoxylierte Mono,- Di- und Trifettsäureester von gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten linearen und/oder verzweigten Fettsäuren mit Glycerin, wie beispielsweise Monomuls® 90-018, Monomuls® 90-L12, Cetiol® HE oder Cutina® MD, und Ester der Benzoesäure mit linearen und/oder verzweigten C6-C22-Alkoholen, wie beispielsweise das unter der Handelsbezeichnung Finsolv® TN vertriebene C12-C15- Alkylbenzoat.Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2- ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol diisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate, symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ® CC), ethoxylated or non ethoxylated mono, - di- and trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol such as Monomuls 90-018 ®, ® Monomuls 90-L12, Cetiol ® HE or Cutina ® MD, and esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C 6 -C 22 alcohols such as that sold under the trade name Finsolv TN ® C 12 -C 15 - alkyl benzoate.
Die Cremigkeit und die Feuchtigkeit- und Glätte-spendenden Eigenschaften werden besonders positiv beeinflusst, wenn als Ölkomponenten Dialkylether, Dialkylcarbonate und Benzoesäureester eingesetzt werden. Erfindungsgemäß besonders geeignet war eine Kombination aus Dicaprylylether (z.B. Cetiol® OE), Ethylhexyl Palmitate (z.B. Cegesoft® C24) und C12-C15-Alkylbenzoat (z.B. Finsolv® TN).The creaminess and the moisture and smoothness-donating properties are particularly positively influenced when used as oil components dialkyl ethers, dialkyl carbonates and benzoic acid esters. According to the invention particularly suitable was a combination of dicaprylyl ether (for example Cetiol ® OE), Ethylhexyl Palmitate (eg Cegesoft ® C24) and C12-C15 alkyl benzoate (such as Finsolv TN ®).
Die Gesamtmenge der vorgenannten Öl- und Fettkomponenten in den erfindungsgemäßen Pflegeemulsionen beträgt - bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Pflegeemulsionen - 1 - 25 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 3 bis 20 Gew.-%, mehr bevorzugt 5 bis 15 Gew.-% und insbesondere 6 bis 10 Gew.-%.The total amount of the aforementioned oil and fat components in the care emulsions according to the invention is 1 to 25% by weight, preferably 3 to 20% by weight, more preferably 5 to 15% by weight and in particular 6, based on the total weight of the care emulsions to 10% by weight.
Falls die erfindungsgemäßen Pflegeemulsionen neben den vorgenannten Öl- und Fettkomponenten weitere hydrophobe Wirkstoffe, wie insbesondere Lichtschutzfilter, enthalten soll, ist es besonders bevorzugt, dass die Gesamtmenge der emulgierten Ölphase, einschließlich der vorgenannten Öl- und Fettkomponenten und weiterer hydrophober Wirkstoffe in den erfindungsgemäßen Pflegeemulsionen - bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Pflegeemulsionen - 1 - 25 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 3 bis 20 Gew.-%, mehr bevorzugt 5 bis 15 Gew.-% und insbesondere 6 bis 10 Gew.-% beträgt.If, in addition to the abovementioned oil and fat components, the care emulsions according to the invention are to contain further hydrophobic active substances, in particular light protection filters, it is particularly preferred that the total amount of the emulsified oil phase, including the abovementioned oil and fat components and other hydrophobic active ingredients in the care emulsions according to the invention, based on the total weight of the care emulsions - 1 - 25 wt .-%, preferably 3 to 20 wt .-%, more preferably 5 to 15 wt .-% and in particular 6 to 10 wt .-% is.
Besonders bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße Pflegeemulsionen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die vorgenannten Öl- und Fettkomponenten in einer Gesamtmenge von bevorzugt 3 bis 20 Gew.-Particularly preferred care emulsions according to the invention are characterized in that the aforementioned oil and fat components in a total amount of preferably 3 to 20 wt.
%, besonders bevorzugt 5 bis 15 Gew.-% und insbesondere 6 bis 10 Gew.-%, und weitere hydrophobe Wirkstoffe, wie insbesondere Lichtschutzfilter, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,5 - 22%, more preferably 5 to 15% by weight and in particular 6 to 10% by weight, and further hydrophobic active substances, in particular light protection filters, in a total amount of 0.5-22
Gew.-%, bevorzugt 1 - 15 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 3 - 12 Gew.-%, und außerordentlich bevorzugt 5 - 10 Gew.-% enthalten sind, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht derWt .-%, preferably 1-15 wt .-%, more preferably 3-12 wt .-%, and most preferably 5-10 wt .-% are included, each based on the total weight of
Pflegeemulsion.Care emulsion.
Die Einwaage der obligatorischen Emulgatoren (i) und (ii) wird nicht zur Ölphase gerechnet.The weight of the obligatory emulsifiers (i) and (ii) is not included in the oil phase.
Die Menge der Wasserphase in den erfindungsgemäßen Emulsionen beträgt bevorzugt > 35The amount of water phase in the emulsions according to the invention is preferably> 35
Gew.-%, mehr bevorzugt > 45 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt > 55 Gew.-% und insbesondere bevorzugt > 65 Gew.-% - jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Emulsion.Wt .-%, more preferably> 45 wt .-%, particularly preferably> 55 wt .-% and particularly preferably> 65 wt .-% - in each case based on the total weight of the emulsion.
Neben den bereits genannten, zwingenden Komponenten und fakultativen Komponenten, die zu besonders bevorzugten Ausführungsformen der erfindungsgemäßen Pflegeemulsionen gehören, enthalten die Pflegeemulsionen zur weiteren Steigerung der Haut pflegenden und schützendenIn addition to the above-mentioned, compelling components and optional components, which belong to particularly preferred embodiments of the care emulsions according to the invention, the care emulsions to further enhance the skin nourishing and protective
Wirkung mindestens einen oder mehrere Hilfs- und Wirkstoffe, die ausgewählt sind aus derAction at least one or more excipients and active substances, which are selected from the
Gruppe der UV-Lichtschutzfilter, Antioxidantien, Feuchthaltemittel, Hyaluronsäure sowie deren physiologisch verträglichen Salzen und Derivaten, Wirkstoffen zur Stimulation derGroup of UV photoprotective filters, antioxidants, humectants, hyaluronic acid and their physiologically acceptable salts and derivatives, agents for stimulating the
Kollagensynthese, Wirkstoffen zur Erhöhung bzw. Verbesserung der Interaktion zwischen der extrazellulären Matrix und den Fibroblasten sowie Wirkstoffen zur Förderung derCollagen synthesis, agents to increase or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts and agents to promote the
Elastinproduktion.Elastin production.
Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Pflegeemulsionen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie zusätzlich zu der zwingenden Wirkstoffkombination nach Anspruch 1 mindestens einen dieFurther care emulsions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, in addition to the compulsory active substance combination according to claim 1, at least one of the
Kollagensynthese stimulierenden Wirkstoff enthalten, der ausgewählt ist ausContaining collagen synthesis stimulating agent that is selected from
Retinoiden, insbesondere Retinol und C2-C22-Fettsäureestern des Retinols,Retinoids, especially retinol and C 2 -C 22 fatty acid esters of retinol,
Kombucha,Kombucha,
Olivenblattextrakten (Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract),Olive leaf extracts (Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract),
Oleanolsäure,oleanolic acid,
Oleanol,Oleanol,
Grüntee-Extrakten (Camellia Sinensis),Green tea extracts (Camellia sinensis),
Kreatin, sowie Mischungen der vorgenannten Substanzen.Creatine, as well as mixtures of the aforementioned substances.
Zu den Retinoiden werden im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung Retinol (Vitamin A1), die C2-C22- Fettsäureester des Retinols (= Retinylester, insbesondere Retinylpalmitat und Retinylacetat), 3,4- Didehydroretinol (Vitamin A2), Retinal und seine Isomere, a//-frans-Retinsäure, 9-c/s-Retinsäure und 13-c/s-Retinsäure (Tretinoin), die Ester der Retinsäure sowie weitere verwandte Substanzen (synthetische Retinoide) gezählt, die für ihre vielfältige biologische Wirkung insbesondere auf Wachstum und Differenzierung bekannt sind, sowie weiterhin Substanzen, die eine spezifische biologische Wirkung durch die Bindung an die Retinoid-Rezeptoren RAR (retinoid acid receptor) und RXR (retinoid X receptor) aufweisen und deren Aktivierung verursachen. Synthetische Retinoide werden in drei Gruppen eingeteilt: nichtaromatisch (z. B. Isotretinoin), monoaromatisch (z.B. Acitretin) und polyaromatisch (sogenannte Arotinoide, z. B. Tazarotene, die eine spezifische Wirkung auf einzelne Retinoid-Rezeptoren haben). Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Retinoide sind Retinol und die C2-C22-Fettsäureester des Retinols, insbesondere Retinylpalmitat und Retinylacetat.For the purposes of the present invention, the retinoids are retinol (vitamin A 1 ), the C 2 -C 22 fatty acid esters of retinol (= retinyl ester, in particular retinyl palmitate and retinyl acetate), 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ), retinal and its Isomers, a-frans-retinoic acid, 9-c / s-retinoic acid and 13-c / s-retinoic acid (tretinoin), which are esters of retinoic acid as well as other related substances (synthetic retinoids) counted for their diverse biological activity in particular on growth and differentiation, as well as substances that have a specific biological effect by binding to the retinoid receptors RAR (retinoid acid receptor) and RXR (retinoid X receptor) and cause their activation. Synthetic retinoids are classified into three groups: non-aromatic (eg, isotretinoin), monoaromatic (eg, acitretin), and polyaromatic (so-called arotinoids, eg, tazarotene, which have a specific effect on single retinoid receptors). Particularly preferred retinoids according to the invention are retinol and the C 2 -C 22 fatty acid esters of retinol, in particular retinyl palmitate and retinyl acetate.
Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Wirkstoffe, die die Kollagensynthese stimulieren, sind ausgewählt aus Kombucha.Further agents which are preferred according to the invention and stimulate collagen synthesis are selected from Kombucha.
Bei Kombucha handelt es sich um ein aus dem ostasiatischen Raum stammendes, etwa 0,5 VoI.- % Alkohol enthaltendes, angenehm säuerliches, leicht süßes, moussierendes Gärungsgetränk auf Basis von Mono- oder Disaccharid-haltigem Tee (Schwarzer Tee, Grüner Tee, Kräutertee oder Früchtetee), das ohne Zusatz von Konservierungsstoffen, Farbstoffen und Aromastoffen hergestellt wird. Beim "Kombucha-Teepilz" handelt es sich tatsächlich nicht um einen Pilz, sondern um eine Symbiose von Essigsäurebakterien (meistens Acetobacter xylinum, aber auch Acetobacter gluconicum) mit verschiedenen Hefen (Saccharomyces sp., Torula sp., Pichia fermentans); fakultativ können Milchsäurebakterien vorhanden sein. Aus Gründen der Produktionssicherheit und Produktionsstabilität wird industriell gefertigter Kombucha oft wärmebehandelt.Kombucha is an originating from East Asia, about 0.5% by volume of alcohol containing, pleasantly sour, slightly sweet, sparkling fermentation beverage based on mono- or disaccharide-containing tea (black tea, green tea, herbal tea or fruit tea), which is produced without the addition of preservatives, colorings and flavorings. The "Kombucha tea fungus" is in fact not a fungus, but a symbiosis of acetic acid bacteria (usually Acetobacter xylinum, but also Acetobacter gluconicum) with various yeasts (Saccharomyces sp., Torula sp., Pichia fermentans); Optionally, lactic acid bacteria may be present. For reasons of production safety and production stability, industrially manufactured kombucha is often heat treated.
Unter „Tee" werden erfindungsgemäß wässrige Aufgüsse von Blättern, Knospen und zarten Stielen von Thea sinensis (Camellia sinensis) und Thea assamica, aber auch von diversen anderen Pflanzen verstanden, beispielsweise Minze, Linde (Lindenblüten), Malve, Rotbusch, Kamille usw. Bevorzugte Kombucha ist aus Mono- oder Disaccharid-haltigem Tee von fermentierten (Schwarztee, Oolong-Tee, Gelber Tee, Pu-Erh-Tee) oder unfermentierten (Grüntee) Blättern von Thea sinensis (Camellia sinensis) oder Thea assamica gewonnen. Weitere bevorzugte Kombucha ist durch Fermentation von (meist mit Saccharose) gezuckertem Tee mit den symbiotischen Mikroorganismen Saccharomyces und Acetobacter xylinum gewonnen. Ein erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugtes Kombucha-Produkt ist ein Produkt, das durch Fermentation von mit Saccharose gezuckertem Schwarztee mit den zwei symbiotischen Mikroorganismen Saccharomyces und Acetobacter xylinum gewonnen wurde und beispielsweise unter der INCI-Bezeichnung „Saccharomyces/Xylinu m/Black Tea Ferment, Glycerin, Hydroxyethylcellulose" mit der Handelsbezeichnung „Kombuchka" als Glycerin-haltige verdickte Zubereitung von der Firma Sederma erhältlich ist.According to the invention, "tea" is understood to mean aqueous infusions of leaves, buds and delicate stems of Thea sinensis and Thea assamica, but also of various other plants, for example mint, linden, mallow, red bush, chamomile etc. Preferred Kombucha is obtained from mono- or disaccharide-containing tea of fermented (black tea, oolong tea, yellow tea, pu-erh tea) or unfermented (green tea) leaves of thea sinensis (camellia sinensis) or thea assamica by fermentation of (usually with sucrose) sugared tea with the symbiotic microorganisms Saccharomyces and Acetobacter xylinum A particularly preferred Kombucha product according to the invention is a product obtained by fermentation of sucrose-sugared black tea with the two symbiotic microorganisms Saccharomyces and Acetobacter xylinum and for example under the INCI name "Sacchar omyces / Xylinu m / Black Tea ferment, glycerol, hydroxyethyl cellulose "with the trade name" Kombuchka "as glycerol-containing thickened preparation from the company Sederma.
Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Wirkstoffe, die die Kollagensynthese stimulieren, sind ausgewählt aus Olivenblattextrakten (Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract). Ein erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugter Olivenblattextrakt ist unter der Handelsbezeichnung Oleanoline DPG von der Firma Vincience erhältlich. Ein weiterer erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugter Olivenblattextrakt ist unter der Handelsbezeichnung Olea europ Fol extr. S. sicc. von der Firma Fruitarom erhältlich. Olivenblattextrakte können einen hohen Gehalt an Oleanolsäure und/oder Oleanol aufweisen. Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Wirkstoffe, die die Kollagensynthese stimulieren, sind ausgewählt aus Oleanolsäure und Oleanol.Further agents which are preferred according to the invention and stimulate collagen synthesis are selected from olive leaf extracts (Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract). An inventively particularly preferred olive leaf extract is available under the trade name Oleanoline DPG from the company Vincience. Another invention particularly preferred olive leaf extract is under the trade name Olea europ Fol extr. S. sicc. available from Fruitarom. Olive leaf extracts may have a high content of oleanolic acid and / or oleanol. Further inventively preferred active ingredients that stimulate collagen synthesis are selected from oleanolic acid and oleanol.
Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Wirkstoffe, die die Kollagensynthese stimulieren, sind ausgewählt aus Grüntee-Extrakten (Camellia Sinensis). Ein erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugter Grüntee-Extrakt ist liposomenverkapselter Grüntee-Extrakt, beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Greenselect Phytosome von der Firma Indena erhältlich.Further inventively preferred active ingredients that stimulate collagen synthesis are selected from green tea extracts (Camellia Sinensis). A particularly preferred green tea extract according to the invention is liposome-encapsulated green tea extract, for example available under the trade name Greenselect Phytosome from Indena.
Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Wirkstoffe, die die Kollagensynthese stimulieren, sind ausgewählt aus Oligopeptiden und Kreatin sowie aus Mischungen aller vorgenannten Wirkstoffe. Der oder die Wirkstoff(e), der (die) die Kollagensynthese stimuliert(en), werden in den erfindungsgemäßen Pflegeemulsionen - bezogen auf deren Gesamtgewicht - in einer Menge von 0,000001 - 5 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,00001 - 2 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,0001 - 1 Gew.-% und außerordentlich bevorzugt 0,005 - 0,5 Gew.-%, eingesetzt.Further agents which are preferred according to the invention and stimulate collagen synthesis are selected from oligopeptides and creatine and also from mixtures of all the abovementioned active ingredients. The active ingredient (s) which stimulate collagen synthesis are used in the care emulsions according to the invention, based on their total weight, in an amount of 0.000001-5% by weight, preferably 0.00001-2 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001 - 1 wt .-% and most preferably 0.005 - 0.5 wt .-%, used.
Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Pflegeemulsionen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie zusätzlich zu der zwingenden Wirkstoffkombination nach Anspruch 1 mindestens einen weiteren, die Interaktion zwischen der extrazellulären Matrix und den Fibroblasten erhöhenden und/oder verbessernden Wirkstoff enthalten, der ausgewählt ist ausFurther care emulsions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, in addition to the compulsory active ingredient combination according to claim 1, at least one further active substance which increases and / or improves the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts and which is selected from
Apfelkernextrakten (Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract),Apple seed extracts (Pyrus malus (Apple) Fruit Extract),
Lotuskeim-Extrakten (Nelumbo Nucifera Germ Extract),Lotus Seed Extracts (Nelumbo Nucifera Germ Extract),
Extrakten aus Maiskörnern (Zea Mays (Com) Kernel Extract),Corn kernel extracts (Zea mays (Com) Kernel Extract),
Rotweinextrakten,Red wine extracts,
Traubenkernextrakten (Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract), die bevorzugt aus derGrape Seed Extracts (Vitis vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract), which are preferred from the
Chardonnay-Traube stammen,Chardonnay grapes come from
Extrakten aus Schwarzen Holunderblüten (Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract),Extracts of Black Elderflower (Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract),
Mischungen aus mindestens einem Extrakt aus Kakaobohnen (Theobroma cacao) und min destens einem Extrakt aus den Blättern der Pfefferminze (Mentha piperita),Mixtures of at least one extract of cocoa beans (Theobroma cacao) and at least one extract of the leaves of peppermint (Mentha piperita),
Hydroxystilbenen und deren Estern, insbesondere Resveratrol und/oder Resveratrol- mono-, -di- und -triphosphorsäureestern und deren Salzen,Hydroxystilbenes and their esters, in particular resveratrol and / or resveratrol mono-, di- and triphosphoric esters and their salts,
Isoflavonoiden und Isoflavonoid-reichen Pflanzenextrakten,Isoflavonoids and isoflavonoid-rich plant extracts,
Dihydroquercetin (= Taxifolin), sowie Mischungen hiervon.Dihydroquercetin (= taxifolin), as well as mixtures thereof.
Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Wirkstoffe, die die Interaktion zwischen der extrazellulären Matrix und den Fibroblasten erhöhen und/oder verbessern, sind ausgewählt aus Apfelkernextrakten (Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract). Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Apfelkernextrakte sind unter der Handelsbezeichnung Ederline von der Firma Seporga erhältlich. Das Produkt Ederline enthält Phytohormone, Isoflavonoide, Phytosterole, Triterpenoide, Tocopherole und natürliche Wachse. Ederline ist einmal in wasserlöslicher Form als Ederline-H (INCI: PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor OiI, PPG-2-Ceteareth-9, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract), zum anderen in fettlöslicher Form als Ederline-L (INCI: Hexyldecanol, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract) erhältlich. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Pflegeemulsionen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie den Rohstoff Ederline in Mengen von 0,1 - 10 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 1 - 8 Gew.-% und besonders bevorzugt 3 - 5 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf die gesamte Zusammensetzung, enthalten. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte kosmetische oder dermatologische Zusammensetzungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens einen Apfelkernextrakt in Mengen von 0,001 - 2 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,01 - 1 ,6 Gew.-% und besonders bevorzugt 0,03 - 1 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf den Gehalt an Aktivsubstanz in der gesamten Zusammensetzung, enthalten.Further agents which are preferred according to the invention and increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts are selected from apple seed extracts (Pyrus malus (Apple) Fruit Extract). Particularly preferred apple seed extracts according to the invention are available under the trade name Ederline from Seporga. The product Ederline contains phytohormones, isoflavonoids, phytosterols, triterpenoids, tocopherols and natural waxes. Ederline is once in water-soluble form as Ederline-H (INCI: PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor OiI, PPG-2-Ceteareth-9, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract), on the other in fat-soluble form as Ederline-L (INCI: Hexyldecanol , Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract). Care emulsions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain the raw material Ederline in amounts of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 to 8% by weight and more preferably from 3 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the total Composition, included. Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one apple seed extract in amounts of 0.001-2% by weight, preferably 0.01-1.6% by weight and more preferably 0.03-1% by weight. %, in each case based on the content of active substance in the total composition.
Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Wirkstoffe, die die Interaktion zwischen der extrazellulären Matrix und den Fibroblasten erhöhen und/oder verbessern, sind ausgewählt aus Lotuskeim- Extrakten. Ein erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugter Lotuskeim-Extrakt ist unter der Handelsbezeichnung Lotus Germ Extract mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Water, Butylene Glycol, Nelumbo Nucifera Germ Extract von der Firma Maruzen erhältlich.Further agents which are preferred according to the invention and increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts are selected from lotus germ extracts. A particularly preferred lotus germ extract according to the invention is available under the trade name Lotus Germ Extract with the INCI name Water, Butylene Glycol, Nelumbo Nucifera Germ Extract from Maruzen.
Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Wirkstoffe, die die Interaktion zwischen der extrazellulären Matrix und den Fibroblasten erhöhen und/oder verbessern, sind ausgewählt aus Extrakten aus Maiskörnern (Zea Mays (Com) Kernel Extract). Ein erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugter Extrakt aus Maiskörnern ist unter der Handelsbezeichnung Deliner von der Firma Coletica erhältlich. Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Wirkstoffe, die die Interaktion zwischen der extrazellulären Matrix und den Fibroblasten erhöhen und/oder verbessern, sind ausgewählt aus Rotweinextrakten (Wine Extract). Ein erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugter Rotweinextrakt ist unter der Handelsbezeichnung Sepivinol R von der Firma Seppic erhältlich. Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Wirkstoffe, die die Interaktion zwischen der extrazellulären Matrix und den Fibroblasten erhöhen und/oder verbessern, sind ausgewählt aus Traubenkernex- trakten (Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract), die besonders bevorzugt aus der Chardonnay- Traube stammen. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Traubenkernextrakte sind unter der Handelsbezeichnung Herbalia Grape von der Firma Cognis oder unter der Handelsbezeichnung Crodarom Chardonnay von Croda erhältlich.Further agents which are preferred according to the invention and increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts are selected from extracts of corn kernels (Zea mays (Com) Kernel Extract). An extract of corn kernels which is particularly preferred according to the invention is obtainable under the trade name Deliner from Coletica. Further agents which are preferred according to the invention and increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts are selected from red wine extracts (wine extract). A particularly preferred red wine extract according to the invention is available under the trade name Sepivinol R from Seppic. Further active compounds which are preferred according to the invention and increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts are selected from grape seed extracts (Vitis vinifera (Grape) seed extract), which are particularly preferably derived from the Chardonnay grape. Particularly preferred grape seed extracts according to the invention are available under the trade name Herbalia Grape from Cognis or under the trade name Crodarom Chardonnay from Croda.
Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Wirkstoffe, die die Interaktion zwischen der extrazellulären Matrix und den Fibroblasten erhöhen und/oder verbessern, sind ausgewählt aus Extrakten aus Schwarzen Holunderblüten (Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract). Ein erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugter Extrakt aus Schwarzen Holunderblüten ist unter der Handelsbezeichnung Sambucus AO von der Firma Alpaflor/Centerchem bzw. von Permcos erhältlich.Further agents which are preferred according to the invention and increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts are selected from extracts of black elderflower (Sambucus nigra flower extract). An invention particularly preferred extract of black elderflower is available under the trade name Sambucus AO from the company Alpaflor / Centerchem or Permcos.
Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Wirkstoffe, die die Interaktion zwischen der extrazellulären Matrix und den Fibroblasten erhöhen und/oder verbessern, sind ausgewählt aus Mischungen aus mindestens einem Extrakt aus Kakaobohnen (Theobroma cacao) und mindestens einem Extrakt aus den Blättern der Pfefferminze (Mentha piperita). Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Mischungen aus mindestens einem Extrakt aus Kakaobohnen (Theobroma cacao) und mindestens einem Extrakt aus den Blättern der Pfefferminze (Mentha piperita) - wobei wässrige, glycolische oder wässrig-glycolische Zubereitungen dieser Extraktmischungen besonders bevorzugt sind - sind unter den Handelsnamen Caomint, Caophenol, Caobromine, Caospice und Caoorange von Solabia erhältlich.Further agents preferred according to the invention which increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts are selected from mixtures of at least one extract of cocoa beans (Theobroma cacao) and at least one extract of the leaves of peppermint (Mentha piperita). Particularly preferred mixtures according to the invention of at least one extract of cocoa beans (Theobroma cacao) and at least one extract of the leaves of peppermint (Mentha piperita) - wherein aqueous, glycolic or aqueous-glycolic preparations of these extract mixtures particularly Preferred are - available under the trade names Caomint, Caophenol, Caobromine, Caospice and Caoorange from Solabia.
Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Wirkstoffe, die die Interaktion zwischen der extrazellulären Matrix und den Fibroblasten erhöhen und/oder verbessern, sind ausgewählt aus Hydroxystilbenen und deren Estern, insbesondere Resveratrol (trans-Stilben-3,4'-5-triol) und/oder Resveratrol- mono-, -di- und -triphosphorsäureestern und deren Salzen. Ein erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugter Resveratrolphosphorsäureester ist Trisodium Resveratrol Triphosphate, z. B. erhältlich von Ajinomoto.Further agents which are preferred according to the invention and increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts are selected from hydroxystilbenes and their esters, in particular resveratrol (trans-stilbene-3,4'-5-triol) and / or resveratrol. mono-, di- and -triphosphorsäureestern and their salts. An inventively particularly preferred Resveratrolphosphorsäureester is trisodium resveratrol triphosphates, z. Available from Ajinomoto.
Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Wirkstoffe, die die Interaktion zwischen der extrazellulären Matrix und den Fibroblasten erhöhen und/oder verbessern, sind ausgewählt aus Isoflavonoiden und Isoflavonoid-reichen Pflanzenextrakten. Zu den Isoflavonoiden zählen erfindungsgemäß die Isoflavone und die Isoflavon-Glycoside.Further agents which are preferred according to the invention and increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts are selected from isoflavonoids and isoflavonoid-rich plant extracts. According to the invention, the isoflavones include the isoflavones and the isoflavone glycosides.
Unter Isoflavonen sind erfindungsgemäß Stoffe zu verstehen, die Hydrierungs-, Oxidations- oder Substitutionsprodukte des 3-Phenyl-4H-1-benzopyrans darstellen, wobei eine Hydrierung in der 2,3-Stellung des Kohlenstoffgerüsts vorliegen kann, eine Oxidation unter Ausbildung einer Carbo- nylgruppe in der 4-Stellung vorliegen kann, und unter Substitution der Ersatz eines oder mehrerer Wasserstoffatome durch Hydroxy- oder Methoxy-Gruppen zu verstehen ist. Zu den erfindungsgemäß bevorzugten Isoflavonen zählen beispielsweise Daidzein, Genistein, Prunetin, Biochanin, Orobol, Santal, Pratensein, Irigenin, Glycitein, Biochanin A und Formononetin. Besonders bevorzugte Isoflavone sind Daidzein, Genistein, Glycitein und Formononetin.According to the invention, isoflavones are to be understood as substances which are hydrogenation, oxidation or substitution products of 3-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran, it being possible for hydrogenation to be in the 2,3-position of the carbon skeleton, oxidation to form a carbohydrate. nylgruppe in the 4-position may be present, and by substitution of the replacement of one or more hydrogen atoms by hydroxy or methoxy groups to understand. The isoflavones preferred according to the invention include, for example, daidzein, genistein, prunetin, biochanin, orobol, santal, pratense, irigenin, glycitein, biochanin A and formononetin. Particularly preferred isoflavones are daidzein, genistein, glycitein and formononetin.
In den erfindungsgemäß bevorzugten Isoflavon-Glycosiden sind die Isoflavone über mindestens eine Hydroxygruppe mit mindestens einem Zucker glycosidisch verknüpft. Als Zucker kommen Mono- oder Oligosaccharide, insbesondere D-Glucose, D-Galactose, D-Glucuronsäure, D-Galact- uronsäure, D-Xylose, D-Apiose, L-Rhamnose, L-Arabinose und Rutinose in Betracht. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Isoflavon-Glycoside sind Daidzin und Genistin. Weiterhin ist es erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt, wenn die Isoflavone und/oder deren Glycoside als Bestandteile eines aus einer Pflanze gewonnenen Substanzgemisches, insbesondere eines pflanzlichen Extraktes, in den Zubereitungen enthalten sind. Solche pflanzlichen Substanzgemische können in dem Fachmann geläufiger Weise beispielsweise durch Auspressen oder Extrahieren aus Pflanzen wie Soja, insbesondere aus den Sojakeimen, Rotklee oder Kichererbsen gewonnen werden. Besonders bevorzugt werden in den erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen Isoflavone oder Isoflavon-Glycoside in Form von aus Soja gewonnenen Extrakten eingesetzt, wie sie beispielsweise unter der Produktbezeichnung Lipobelle Soyaglycone (Mibelle AG Cosmetics), Soy Protein lsolate SPI (Protein Technology International, St. Louis) oder Soy Phytochemicals Concentrate SPC (Archer Daniels Midland, Decatur) im Handel erhältlich sind. Ein weiterer besonders bevorzugter Isoflavonoid-reicher Pflanzenextrakt ist Apfelkernextrakt, insbesondere das Handelsprodukt Ederline von Seporga. Ederline enthält Phytohormone, Isoflavonoide, Phytosterole, Triterpenoide, Tocopherole und natürliche Wachse. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte kosmetische oder dermatologische Zusammensetzungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens ein Isoflavonoid in Gesamtmengen von 0,00001 bis 1 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,0005 bis 0,5 Gew.-% und besonders bevorzugt 0,001 bis 0,1 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf die Isoflavonoidaktivsubstanz in der gesamten kosmetischen Zusammensetzung, enthalten.In the isoflavone glycosides preferred according to the invention, the isoflavones are glycosidically linked via at least one hydroxy group to at least one sugar. Suitable sugars are mono- or oligosaccharides, in particular D-glucose, D-galactose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-xylose, D-apiose, L-rhamnose, L-arabinose and rutinose. Particularly preferred isoflavone glycosides according to the invention are daidzin and genistin. Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention if the isoflavones and / or their glycosides are contained in the preparations as constituents of a substance mixture obtained from a plant, in particular a plant extract. Such vegetable substance mixtures can be obtained in a manner familiar to the person skilled in the art, for example by squeezing or extracting from plants such as soy, in particular from soybean, red clover or chickpeas. Isoflavones or isoflavone glycosides in the form of extracts obtained from soybean are particularly preferably used in the preparations according to the invention, as described, for example, under the product name Lipobelle Soyaglycone (Mibelle AG Cosmetics), Soy Protein Isolate SPI (Protein Technology International, St. Louis) or Soy Phytochemicals Concentrate SPC (Archer Daniels Midland, Decatur) are commercially available. Another particularly preferred isoflavonoid-rich plant extract is apple seed extract, in particular the commercial product Ederline from Seporga. Ederline contains phytohormones, isoflavonoids, phytosterols, triterpenoids, tocopherols and natural waxes. Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one isoflavonoid in total amounts of from 0.00001 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight and more preferably from 0.001 to 0.1% by weight .-%, each based on the Isoflavonoidaktivsubstanz in the entire cosmetic composition.
Ein weiterer erfindungsgemäß bevorzugter Wirkstoff, der die Interaktion zwischen der extrazellulären Matrix und den Fibroblasten erhöht und/oder verbessert, ist Dihydroquercetin (3,3',4',5,7-Pentahydroxyflavanon), das auch als Taxifolin bezeichnet wird. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Pflegeemulsionen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens einen Wirkstoff, der die Interaktion zwischen der extrazellulären Matrix und den Fibroblasten erhöht und/oder verbessert, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,00001 - 5 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,0001 - 2 Gew.-% und außerordentlich bevorzugt 0,005 - 0,5 oder 1 Gew.-%, enthalten, jeweils bezogen auf den Gehalt an Aktivsubstanz in der gesamten Zusammensetzung.Another preferred agent of the present invention which increases and / or improves the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts is dihydroquercetin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone), also referred to as taxifolin. Care emulsions particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one active substance which increases and / or improves the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts in a total amount of 0.000001-10% by weight, preferably 0.00001-5 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001 - 2 wt .-% and most preferably 0.005 - 0.5 or 1 wt .-%, in each case based on the content of active substance in the total composition.
Als erfindungsgemäß geeigneter Wirkstoff zur Förderung der Elastinproduktion dient ein Dillextrakt (Peucedanum Graveolens Extract), beispielsweise ein unter der Handelsbezeichnung AHYA 050 A (Gemisch aus Wasser, Butylen Glycol, Dillextrakt und Xanthan Gum) erhältliches Produkt. Dillextrakt wird in den erfindungsgemäßen Pflegeemulsionen - bezogen auf deren Gesamtgewicht - in einer Menge von 0,0001 bis 3 Gew.-%, bevorzugt von 0,0005 bis 2 Gew.-% und insbesondere 0,001 bis 1 ,5 Gew.-% eingesetzt.A suitable active ingredient for promoting elastin production according to the invention is a dill extract (Peucedanum Graveolens Extract), for example a product available under the trade name AHYA 050 A (mixture of water, butylene glycol, dill extract and xanthan gum). Dill extract is used in the care emulsions according to the invention - based on their total weight - in an amount of 0.0001 to 3 wt .-%, preferably from 0.0005 to 2 wt .-% and in particular 0.001 to 1, 5 wt .-%.
Weitere bevorzugte Wirkstoffe, die den erfindungsgemäßen Pflegeemulsionen zusätzlich zu den zwingenden Wirkstoffen nach Anspruch zugesetzt werden können und den Hautzustand positiv beeinflussen sind ausgewählt aus der Gruppe, die gebildet wird aus:Further preferred active ingredients which can be added to the care emulsions according to the invention in addition to the obligatory active ingredients according to claim and which positively influence the skin condition are selected from the group which is formed from:
DNA- oder RNA-Oligonucleotiden,DNA or RNA oligonucleotides,
Vitaminen, Provitaminen und Vitaminvorstufen der Gruppen B, E, H und K und den Estern der vorgenannten Substanzen, α-Hydroxycarbonsäuren, α-Ketocarbonsäuren, ß-Hydroxycarbonsäuren und deren Ester-,Vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of groups B, E, H and K and the esters of the abovementioned substances, α-hydroxycarboxylic acids, α-ketocarboxylic acids, β-hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters,
Lacton- und/oder Salzform,Lactone and / or salt form,
Flavonoiden und Flavonoid-reichen Pflanzenextrakten,Flavonoids and flavonoid-rich plant extracts,
Ubichinon und Ubichinol sowie deren Derivaten,Ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives,
Silymarin,silymarin,
Ectoin, anorganischen und organischen UV-Filtersubstanzen, selbstbräunenden, hautberuhigenden und sebumregulierenden Wirkstoffen sowieEctoine, inorganic and organic UV filter substances, self-tanning, skin-soothing and sebum-regulating agents and
Mischungen dieser Wirkstoffe.Mixtures of these agents.
Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Pflegeemulsionen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie zusätzlich zu der zwingenden Wirkstoffkombination nach Anspruch 1 mindestens einen Wirkstoff enthalten, der ausgewählt ist aus DNA-Oligonucleotiden und RNA-Oligonucleotiden. Erfindungsgemäß werden unter einem Oligonucleotid Polymerisate aus 2 bis 20, bevorzugt 2 bis 10 Mononucleotiden verstanden, die ebenso wie bei Polynucleotiden und Nucleinsäuren durch Phosphorsäurediester-Brücken verknüpft sind. Die Nucleotide bestehen aus Nucleobasen (meist Pyrimidin- oder Purin-Derivaten), Pentosen (meist D-Ribofuranose oder 2-Desoxy-D-ribofuranose in ß-N-glycosidischer Bindung an die Nucleobase) und Phosphorsäure. Die Mononucleotide sind zum Beispiel Adenosinphosphate, Cytidinphosphate, Guanosinphosphate, Uridinphosphate und Thymidinphosphate, insbesondere CMP (Cytidin-5'-monophosphat), UDP (Uridin-5'-diphosphat), ATP (Adenosin-5 -triphosphat) und GTP (Guanosin-5'-triphosphat). Ein erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugtes Oligonucleotid ist das Thymidin-Dinucleotid. In den besonders bevorzugten erfindungsgemäßen Pflegeemulsionen sind die DNA-Oligonucleo- tide oder RNA-Oligonucleotide in Mengen von 0,00001 - 5 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,0001 - 1 ,0 Gew.-% und besonders bevorzugt 0,0005 - 0,5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte Zusammensetzung, enthalten.Further care emulsions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, in addition to the compulsory active ingredient combination according to claim 1, at least one active substance which is selected from DNA oligonucleotides and RNA oligonucleotides. According to the invention, an oligonucleotide is understood as meaning polymers of from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10, mononucleotides which, like polynucleotides and nucleic acids, are linked by phosphoric diester bridges. The nucleotides consist of nucleobases (usually pyrimidine or purine derivatives), pentoses (usually D-ribofuranose or 2-deoxy-D-ribofuranose in ß-N-glycosidic bond to the nucleobase) and phosphoric acid. The mononucleotides are, for example, adenosine phosphates, cytidine phosphates, guanosine phosphates, uridine phosphates and thymidine phosphates, in particular CMP (cytidine 5'-monophosphate), UDP (uridine 5'-diphosphate), ATP (adenosine 5-triphosphate) and GTP (guanosine-5 'triphosphate). An oligonucleotide particularly preferred according to the invention is the thymidine dinucleotide. In the particularly preferred care emulsions according to the invention, the DNA oligonucleotides or RNA oligonucleotides are present in amounts of 0.00001-5% by weight, preferably 0.0001-1.0% by weight and more preferably 0.0005-0 , 5 wt .-%, based on the total composition.
Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Pflegeemulsionen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie zusätzlich zu der zwingenden Wirkstoffkombination nach Anspruch 1 mindestens einen Wirkstoff enthalten, der ausgewählt ist aus mindestens einem Vitamin, Provitamin oder einer als Vitaminvorstufe bezeichnete Verbindung aus den Vitamingruppen B, E, H und K und den Estern der vorgenannten Substanzen.Further care emulsions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, in addition to the compulsory active ingredient combination according to claim 1, at least one active ingredient which is selected from at least one vitamin, provitamin or a compound designated as vitamin precursor from the vitamin groups B, E, H and K and the Esters of the aforementioned substances.
Zur Vitamin B-Gruppe oder zu dem Vitamin B-Komplex gehören unter anderem - Vitamin B1, Trivialname Thiamin, chemische Bezeichung 3-[(4'-Amino-2'-methyl-5'-pyrimidinyl)- methyl]-5-(2-hydroxyethyl)-4-methylthiazoliumchlorid. Bevorzugt wird Thiaminhydrochlorid inThe vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others - Vitamin B 1, thiamine trivial name, chemical designation 3 - [(4 '-amino-2' -methyl-5 '-pyrimidinyl) - methyl] -5- (2-hydroxyethyl) -4-methylthiazolium. Thiamine hydrochloride is preferred in
Mengen von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte Zusammensetzung, eingesetzt. - Vitamin B2, Trivialname Riboflavin, chemische Bezeichung 7,8-Dimethyl-10-(1-D-ribityl)- benzo[g]pteridin-2,4(3/-/,10/-/)-dion. Bevorzugt werden Riboflavin oder seine Derivate in Mengen von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte Zusammensetzung, eingesetzt.Amounts of 0.05 to 1 wt .-%, based on the total composition used. - Vitamin B 2 , common name riboflavin, chemical name 7,8-dimethyl-10- (1-D-ribityl) - benzo [g] pteridine-2,4 (3 / - /, 10 / - /) - dione. Riboflavin or its derivatives are preferably used in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total composition.
- Vitamin B3. Unter dieser Bezeichnung werden die Verbindungen Nicotinsäure und Nicotinsäureamid (Niacinamid) geführt. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt ist das Nicotinsäureamid, das in den erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte Zusammensetzung, enthalten ist.- Vitamin B 3 . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total composition.
- Vitamin B5 (Pantothensäure und Panthenol). Bevorzugt wird Panthenol eingesetzt. Erfindungsgemäß einsetzbare Derivate des Panthenols sind insbesondere die Ester und Ether des Panthenols sowie kationisch derivatisierte Panthenole. In einer weiteren bevorzugten Ausführ ungsform der Erfindung können an Stelle von sowie zusätzlich zu Pantothensäure oder Pan thenol auch Derivate des 2-Furanon mit der allgemeinen Strukturformel (VIT-I) eingesetzt werden.- Vitamin B 5 (pantothenic acid and panthenol). Panthenol is preferably used. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, it is also possible to use derivatives of 2-furanone having the general structural formula (VIT-I) instead of and in addition to pantothenic acid or panenol.
(VIT-I) Bevorzugt sind die 2-Furanon-Derivate, in denen die Substituenten R1 bis R6 unabhängig voneinander ein Wasserstoffatom, einen Hydroxylrest, einen Methyl-, Methoxy-, Aminomethyl- oder Hydroxymethylrest, einen gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, linearen oder verzweigten C2-C4 - Kohlenwasserstoffrest, einen gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxy-C2-C4 - Kohlenwasserstoffrest oder einen gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Triamino-C2-C4 - Kohlenwasserstoffrest darstellen. Besonders bevorzugte Derivate sind die auch im Handel erhältlichen Substanzen Dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2(3H)-furanon mit dem Trivialnamen Pantolacton (Merck), 4-Hydroxymethyl-γ-butyrolacton (Merck), 3,3-Dimethyl-2-hydroxy-γ- butyrolacton (Aldrich) und 2,5-Dihydro-5-methoxy-2-furanon (Merck), wobei ausdrücklich alle Stereoisomeren eingeschlossen sind. Das erfindungsgemäß außerordentlich bevorzugte 2-Fura- non-Derivat ist Pantolacton (Dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2(3H)-furanon), wobei in Formel (VIT-I) R1 für eine Hydroxylgruppe, R2 für ein Wasserstoffatom, R3 und R4 für eine Methylgruppe und R5 und R6 für ein Wasserstoffatom stehen. Das Stereoisomer (R)-Pantolacton entsteht beim Abbau von Pantothensäure.(VIT-I) Preference is given to the 2-furanone derivatives in which the substituents R 1 to R 6 independently of one another are a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl radical, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl or hydroxymethyl radical, a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, linear or branched one C 2 -C 4 -hydrocarbon radical, a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy-C 2 -C 4 -hydrocarbon radical or a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono , Di- or triamino-C 2 -C 4 - hydrocarbon radical. Particularly preferred derivatives are the commercially available substances dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone with the trivial name pantolactone (Merck), 4-hydroxymethyl-γ-butyrolactone (Merck), 3,3 Dimethyl 2-hydroxy-γ-butyrolactone (Aldrich) and 2,5-dihydro-5-methoxy-2-furanone (Merck), expressly including all stereoisomers. The inventively extremely preferred 2-furanone derivative is pantolactone (dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone), wherein in formula (VIT-I) R 1 is a hydroxyl group, R 2 represents a hydrogen atom, R 3 and R 4 represent a methyl group, and R 5 and R 6 represent a hydrogen atom. The stereoisomer (R) -pantolactone is formed during the degradation of pantothenic acid.
Die genannten Verbindungen des Vitamin B5-Typs sowie die 2-Furanonderivate sind in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,05 bis 5 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,1 bis 3 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,5 bis 2 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf die gesamte Zusammensetzung, enthalten.The said compounds of the vitamin B 5 type and the 2-furanone derivatives are present in the compositions according to the invention in a total amount of 0.05 to 5 wt.%, Preferably 0.1 to 3 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition included.
- Vitamin B6, wobei man hierunter keine einheitliche Substanz, sondern die unter den Trivialnamen Pyridoxin, Pyridoxamin und Pyridoxal bekannten Derivate des 5-Hydroxymethyl-2- methylpyridin-3-ols versteht. Vitamin B6 ist in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,0001 bis 1 ,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere in Mengen von 0,001 bis 0,01 Gew.-%, enthalten.- Vitamin B 6 , which is understood hereunder no uniform substance, but the known under the common names pyridoxine, pyridoxamine and pyridoxal derivatives of 5-hydroxymethyl-2-methylpyridin-3-ols. Vitamin B 6 is contained in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1, 0 wt .-%, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-%.
- Vitamin B7 (Biotin), auch als Vitamin H oder "Hautvitamin" bezeichnet. Bei Biotin handelt es sich um (3aS,4S, 6af?)-2-Oxohexahydrothienol[3,4-cf]-imidazol-4-valeriansäure. Biotin ist in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,0001 bis 1 ,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere in Mengen von 0,001 bis 0,01 Gew.-% enthalten.- Vitamin B 7 (biotin), also known as vitamin H or "skin vitamin". Biotin is (3aS, 4S, 6af?) - 2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-cf] -imidazole-4-valeric acid. Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
- Folsäure (Vitamin B9, Vitamin Bc). Internationaler Freiname für N-[4-(2-Amino-3,4-dihydro-4-oxo- 6-pteridinylmethylamino)-benzoyl]-L-glutaminsäure (N-Pteroyl-L-glutaminsäure, PteGlu). Folat wird synonym zu Pteroylglutamat gebraucht, Folate ist der Sammelbegriff für alle Folsäure-wirk- samen Verbindungen und bezeichnet eine Substanzklasse, die einen mit 4-Aminobenzoesäure und L-Glutaminsäure verbundenen Pteridin-Ring enthält. Folsäure ist ein Wachstumsfaktor für verschiedene Mikroorganismen und eine Verbindung mit Vitamincharakter, die in der Natur meist als Polyglutamat und in reduzierter Form (7,8-Dihydrofolsäure, H2Folat, DHF; Tetrahydrofolsäure, H4Folat, THF; 5'-Methyl-Tetrahydrofolsäure, CH3-H4Folat, MeTHF) vorkommt. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Zusammensetzungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens eine Komponente, ausgewählt aus Folsäure, Folaten und deren Estern, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,0001 bis 1 ,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,01 bis 0,5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die Zusammensetzung, enthalten.- Folic acid (Vitamin B 9 , Vitamin B c ). International generic name for N- [4- (2-amino-3,4-dihydro-4-oxo-6-pteridinylmethylamino) -benzoyl] -L-glutamic acid (N-pteroyl-L-glutamic acid, PteGlu). Folate is used synonymously with pteroylglutamate. Folate is the collective term for all folic acid-active compounds and refers to a class of substances containing a pteridine ring linked to 4-aminobenzoic acid and L-glutamic acid. Folic acid is a growth factor for various microorganisms and a compound of vitamin character, which is usually found in nature as polyglutamate and in reduced form (7,8-dihydrofolic acid, H 2 folate, DHF, tetrahydrofolic acid, H 4 folate, THF, 5'-methyl). Tetrahydrofolic acid, CH 3 -H 4 folate, MeTHF). Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one component selected from folic acid, folates and their esters, in a total amount from 0.0001 to 1, 0 wt .-%, in particular 0.01 to 0.5 wt .-%, based on the composition.
- O rotsäure (Vitamin B13, 1 ,2,3,6-Tetrahydro-2,6-dioxo-4-pyrimidin-carbonsäure, Uracil-6- carbonsäure, Molkensäure). Orotsäure, ihr Cholinester oder Orotsäure-Metallsalze (Orotate von Ca, Cr, Fe, K, Co, Cu, Li, Mg, Mn, Na, Zn, Sn) sind erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Zusammensetzungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens eine Komponente, ausgewählt aus Orotsäure, Orotaten und deren Estern, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,0001 - 1 ,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,01 - 0,5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die Zusammensetzung, enthalten.- O Rotsäure (vitamin B 13 , 1, 2,3,6-tetrahydro-2,6-dioxo-4-pyrimidine-carboxylic acid, uracil-6-carboxylic acid, molar acid). Orotic acid, its choline ester or orotic acid metal salts (orotates of Ca, Cr, Fe, K, Co, Cu, Li, Mg, Mn, Na, Zn, Sn) are particularly preferred according to the invention. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one component selected from orotic acid, orotates and their esters, in a total amount of 0.0001-1.0% by weight, in particular 0.01-0.5% by weight. %, based on the composition.
Zur Vitamin E-Gruppe zählen Tocopherol, insbesondere α-Tocopherol, und seine Derivate. Bevorzugte Derivate sind insbesondere die Ester, wie Tocopherylacetat, -nicotinat, -phosphat, - succinat, -linoleat, -oleat, Tocophereth-5, Tocophereth-10, Tocophereth-12, Tocophereth-18, Tocophereth-50 und Tocophersolan. Tocopherol und seine Derivate sind bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05 - 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte Zusammensetzung, enthalten. Vitamin H ist eine andere Bezeichnung für Biotin oder Vitamin B7 (siehe oben). Zu den fettlöslichen Vitaminen der Vitamin K-Gruppe, denen das Grundgerüst des 2-Methyl-1 ,4- naphthochinons zugrunde liegt, gehören Phyllochinon (Vitamin K1), Farnochinon oder Menachinon-7 (Vitamin K2) und Menadion (Vitamin K3). Vitamin K ist bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,0001 bis 1 ,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,01 bis 0,5 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf die gesamte Zusammensetzung, enthalten.The vitamin E group includes tocopherol, especially α-tocopherol, and its derivatives. Preferred derivatives are in particular the esters, such as tocopheryl acetate, nicotinate, phosphate, succinate, linoleate, oleate, tocophereth-5, tocophereth-10, tocophereth-12, tocophereth-18, tocophereth-50 and tocopherol. Tocopherol and its derivatives are preferably present in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total composition. Vitamin H is another name for biotin or vitamin B 7 (see above). The fat-soluble vitamins of the vitamin K group that underlie the basic structure of 2-methyl-1,4-naphthoquinone include phylloquinone (vitamin K 1 ), farnoquinone or menaquinone-7 (vitamin K2) and menadione (vitamin K 3 ). , Vitamin K is preferably present in amounts of 0.0001 to 1, 0 wt .-%, in particular 0.01 to 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.
Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Pflegeemulsionen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie zusätzlich zu der zwingenden Wirkstoffkombination nach Anspruch 1 mindestens einen Wirkstoff enthalten, der ausgewählt ist aus mindestens einer α-Hydroxycarbonsäure, α-Ketocarbonsäure oder ß-Hydroxycarbonsäure oder deren Ester-, Lacton- und/ oder Salzform. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte α-Hydroxycarbonsäuren oder α-Ketocarbonsäuren sind Glycolsäure, Milchsäure, Weinsäure, Citronensäure, 2-Hydroxybutansäure, 2,3-Dihydroxypropansäure, 2-Hydroxypentan- säure, 2-Hydroxyhexansäure, 2-Hydroxyheptansäure, 2-Hydroxyoctansäure, 2-Hydroxy- decansäure, 2-Hydroxydodecansäure, 2-Hydroxytetradecansäure, 2-Hydroxyhexadecansäure, 2- Hydroxyoctadecansäure, Mandelsäure, 4-Hydroxymandelsäure, Äpfelsäure, Erythrarsäure, Threarsäure, Glucarsäure, Galactarsäure, Mannarsäure, Gularsäure, 2-Hydroxy-2- methylbernsteinsäure, Gluconsäure, Brenztraubensäure, Glucuronsäure und Galacturonsäure. Besonders bevorzugte α-Hydroxycarbonsäuren sind Milchsäure, Citronensäure, Glycolsäure und Gluconsäure. Eine besonders bevorzugte ß-Hydroxycarbonsäure ist Salicylsäure. Eine besonders bevorzugte α-Ketocarbonsäure ist Brenztraubensäure. Die Ester der genannten Säuren sind ausgewählt aus den Methyl-, Ethyl-, Propyl-, Isopropyl-, Butyl-, Amyl-, Pentyl-, Hexyl-, 2-Ethylhexyl-, Octyl-, Decyl-, Dodecyl- und Hexadecylestern. Weitere Derivate der vorgenannten Säuren sind deren physiologisch verträglichen Salze, bevorzugt die Zink-, Kupfer- und Mangansalze, die Salze der Alkali- und der Erdalkalimetalle und die Ammonium-, Alkylammonium-, Alkanolammonium- und Glucammoniumsalze, besonders bevorzugt die Natrium-, Kalium-, Magnesium- und Calcium- Salze. Die α-Hydroxycarbonsäuren, α-Ketocarbonsäuren oder ß-Hydroxycarbonsäuren oder ihre Derivate sind bevorzugt in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,1 - 10 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,5 - 5 Gew.-% und außerordentlich bevorzugt 1 - 2 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf die gesamte Zusammensetzung, enthalten.Further care emulsions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, in addition to the compulsory active ingredient combination according to claim 1, at least one active ingredient which is selected from at least one α-hydroxycarboxylic acid, α-ketocarboxylic acid or β-hydroxycarboxylic acid or their ester, lactone and / or salt form. Preferred α-hydroxycarboxylic acids or α-ketocarboxylic acids according to the invention are glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2,3-dihydroxypropanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxybenzoic acid. decanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, mandelic acid, 4-hydroxymandelic acid, malic acid, erythraric acid, threaric acid, glucaric acid, galactaric acid, mannaric acid, gularic acid, 2-hydroxy-2-methylsuccinic acid, gluconic acid, pyruvic acid, Glucuronic acid and galacturonic acid. Particularly preferred α-hydroxycarboxylic acids are lactic acid, citric acid, glycolic acid and gluconic acid. A particularly preferred β-hydroxycarboxylic acid is salicylic acid. A particularly preferred α-ketocarboxylic acid is pyruvic acid. The esters of said acids are selected from the methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, amyl, pentyl, hexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl and hexadecyl esters. Further derivatives of the abovementioned acids are their physiologically tolerated salts, preferably the zinc, copper and manganese salts, the salts of the alkali and alkaline earth metals and the ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts, particularly preferably the sodium, potassium and potassium salts. , Magnesium and calcium salts. The α-hydroxycarboxylic acids, α-ketocarboxylic acids or β-hydroxycarboxylic acids or their derivatives are preferably present in a total amount of 0.1-10% by weight, more preferably 0.5-5% by weight and most preferably 1-2% by weight. -%, in each case based on the total composition included.
Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Pflegeemulsionen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie zusätzlich zu der zwingenden Wirkstoffkombination nach Anspruch 1 mindestens einen Wirkstoff enthalten, der ausgewählt ist aus mindestens einem Flavonoid und/oder mindestens einem Flavonoid-reichen Pflanzenextrakt.Further care emulsions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, in addition to the compulsory active substance combination according to claim 1, at least one active substance which is selected from at least one flavonoid and / or at least one flavonoid-rich plant extract.
Die erfindungsgemäß bevorzugten Flavonoide umfassen die Glycoside der Flavone, der 3-Hydro- xyflavone (Flavonole) und der Aurone. Die Flavanone und die Isoflavone sind erfindungsgemäß ausdrücklich von den Flavonoiden ausgenommen. Besonders bevorzugte Flavonoide sind ausgewählt aus Naringin (Aurantiin, Naringenin-7-rhamnoglucosid), α-Glucosylrutin, α- Glucosylmyricetin, α-Glucosylisoquercetin, α-Glucosylquercetin, Rutin (3,3',4',5,7- Pentahydroxyflavon-3-rhamnoglucosid, Quercetin-3-rhamnoglucosid), Troxerutin (3,5-Dihydroxy- 3',4',7-tris(2-hydroxyethoxy)-flavon-3-(6-O-(6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl)-ß-D-glucopyranosid)), Monoxerutin(3,3',4',5-Tetrahydroxy-7-(2-hydroxyethoxy)flavon-3-(6-O-(6-deoxy-α-L- mannopyranosyl)-ß-D-glucopyranosid)), Eriodictin und Apigenin-7-glucosid (4',5,7- Trihydroxyflavon-7-glucosid).The flavonoids preferred according to the invention include the glycosides of the flavones, the 3-hydroxyflavones (flavonols) and the aurones. The flavanones and isoflavones according to the invention are expressly excluded from the flavonoids. Particularly preferred flavonoids are selected from naringin (aurantiine, naringenin-7-rhamnoglucoside), α-glucosylrutin, α-glucosylmyricetin, α-glucosylisoquercetin, α-glucosylquercetin, rutin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavone-3 -rhamnoglucoside, quercetin-3-rhamnoglucoside), troxerutin (3,5-dihydroxy-3 ', 4', 7-tris (2-hydroxyethoxy) -flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L -mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)), monoxerutin (3,3 ', 4', 5-tetrahydroxy-7- (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L - mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)), eriodictin and apigenin-7-glucoside (4 ', 5,7-trihydroxyflavone-7-glucoside).
Erfindungsgemäß außerordentlich bevorzugte Flavonoide sind α-Glucosylrutin, Naringin und Api- genin-7-glucosid.Extremely preferred flavonoids according to the invention are α-glucosylrutin, naringin and apigenin-7-glucoside.
Ebenfalls bevorzugt sind die aus zwei Flavonoideinheiten aufgebauten Biflavonoide, die z. B. in Gingko-Arten vorkommen. Weitere bevorzugte Flavonoide sind die Chalkone, vor allem Phloricin und Neohesperidindihydrochalkon.Also preferred are the constructed from two flavonoid biflavonoids, z. B. occur in gingko species. Other preferred flavonoids are the chalcones, especially phloricin and neohesperidin dihydrochalcone.
Erfindungsgemäß werden die Flavonoide in Mengen von 0,0001 bis 1 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,0005 bis 0,5 Gew.-% und besonders bevorzugt 0,001 bis 0,1 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf die Flavono- idaktivsubstanz in der gesamten kosmetischen Zusammensetzung, eingesetzt. Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Pflegeemulsionen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie zusätzlich zu der zwingenden Wirkstoffkombination nach Anspruch 1 mindestens einen Wirkstoff enthalten, der ausgewählt ist aus mindestens einem Ubichinon oder einem Ubichinol oder deren Derivaten. Ubichinole sind die reduzierte Form der Ubichinone. Die erfindungsgemäß bevorzugten Ubichinone weisen die Formel (UBI-I) auf:According to the invention, the flavonoids are used in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight and more preferably from 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based in each case on the flavonoid-active substance the entire cosmetic composition. Further care emulsions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, in addition to the compulsory active substance combination according to claim 1, at least one active substance which is selected from at least one ubiquinone or a ubiquinol or derivatives thereof. Ubiquinols are the reduced form of ubiquinones. The preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the formula (UBI-I):
mit n = 6, 7, 8, 9 oder 10. Besonders bevorzugt ist das Ubichinon der Formel (UBI-I) mit n = 10, bekannt als Coenzym Q10. Erfindungsgemäß werden die Ubichinone, Ubichinole oder deren Derivate in Mengen von 0,0001 bis 1 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,001 bis 0,5 Gew.-% und besonders bevorzugt 0,005 bis 0,1 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf die gesamte Zusammensetzung, eingesetzt. with n = 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10. Particularly preferred is the ubiquinone of the formula (UBI-I) with n = 10, known as coenzyme Q10. According to the invention, the ubiquinones, ubiquinols or derivatives thereof in amounts of 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total Composition, used.
Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Pflegeemulsionen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie zusätzlich zu der zwingenden Wirkstoffkombination nach Anspruch 1 Silymarin enthalten. Silymarin stellt erfindungsgemäß ein früher als einheitliche Substanz angesehenes Wirkstoff- Konzentrat aus den Früchten der Mariendistel (Silybum marianum) dar. Die Hauptbestandteile des Silymarins sind Silybin (Silymarin I), Silychristin (Silymarin II) und Silydianin, die zur Gruppe der Flavanolignane gehören.Further care emulsions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain silymarin in addition to the compulsory active ingredient combination according to claim 1. According to the invention, silymarin is an active substance concentrate from the fruits of the milk thistle (Silybum marianum) which was previously regarded as a uniform substance. The main constituents of silymarin are silybin (silymarin I), silychristin (silymarin II) and silydianin, which belong to the group of flavanolignans.
Erfindungsgemäß wird Silymarin in Mengen von 0,0001 bis 1 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,001 bis 0,5 Gew.-% und besonders bevorzugt 0,005 bis 0,1 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf die gesamte Zusammensetzung, eingesetzt.According to the invention silymarin is used in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.
Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Pflegeemulsionen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie zusätzlich zu der zwingenden Wirkstoffkombination nach Anspruch 1 Ectoin enthalten. Ectoin ist der Trivialname für 2-Methyl-1 ,4,5,6-tetrahydropyrimidin-4-carboxylat. Erfindungsgemäß ist Ectoin bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,0001 bis 1 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,001 bis 0,5 Gew.-% und außerordentlich bevorzugt 0,005 bis 0,01 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf die gesamte Zusammensetzung, enthalten.Further care emulsions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain ectoine in addition to the compelling active ingredient combination according to claim 1. Ectoin is the common name for 2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydropyrimidine-4-carboxylate. According to the invention, ectoine is preferably present in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.001 to 0.5% by weight, and most preferably from 0.005 to 0.01% by weight, based in each case on the total composition.
Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Pflegeemulsionen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie zusätzlich zu der zwingenden Wirkstoffkombination nach Anspruch 1 mindestens eine anorganische und/oder mindestens eine organische UV-Filtersubstanz enthalten. Bei den UV-Filtersubstanzen handelt es sich um bei Raumtemperatur flüssig oder kristallin vorliegende Substanzen, die in der Lage sind, ultraviolette Strahlen zu absorbieren und die aufgenommene Energie in Form längerwelliger Strahlung, z. B. Wärme wieder abzugeben. Man unterscheidet UVA-Filter und UVB-Filter. Die UVA- und UVB-Filter können sowohl einzeln als auch in Mischungen eingesetzt werden. Der Einsatz von Filtermischungen ist erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt.Further care emulsions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one inorganic and / or at least one organic UV filter substance in addition to the obligatory active ingredient combination according to claim 1. The UV filter substances are substances which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and which are capable of absorbing ultraviolet rays and of absorbing the absorbed energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, eg. B. to give off heat again. One differentiates between UVA filters and UVB filters. The UVA and UVB filters can be used individually or in mixtures. The use of filter mixtures is preferred according to the invention.
Die erfindungsgemäß bevorzugten organischen UV-Filter sind ausgewählt aus den Derivaten von Dibenzoylmethan, Zimtsäureestern, Diphenylacrylsäureestern, Benzophenon, Campher, p-Amino- benzoesäureestern, o-Aminobenzoesäureestern, Salicylsäureestern, Benzimidazolen, symmetrisch oder unsymmetrisch substituierten 1 ,3,5-Triazinen, monomeren und oligomeren 4,4- Diarylbutadiencarbonsäureestern und -carbonsäureamiden, Ketotricyclo(5.2.1.0)decan, Benzal- malonsäureestern, Benzoxazol sowie beliebigen Mischungen der genannten Komponenten. Die organischen UV-Filter können öllöslich oder wasserlöslich sein. Die Benzoxazol-Derivate liegen vorteilhaft in gelöster Form in den erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen Zubereitungen vor. Es kann ggf. aber auch von Vorteil sein, wenn die Benzoxazol-Derivate in pigmentärer, d. h. ungelöster Form - beispielsweise in Partikelgrößen von 10 nm bis zu 300 nm - vorliegen. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte öllösliche UV-Filter sind 1-(4-tert.-Butylphenyl)-3-(4'-methoxyphe- nyl)propan-1 ,3-dion (Parsol® 1789), 1-Phenyl-3-(4'-isopropylphenyl)-propan-1 ,3-dion, 3-(4'- Methylbenzyliden)-D,L-campher, 4-(Dimethylamino)-benzoesäure-2-ethylhexylester, 4-(Dimethyl- amino)benzoesäure-2-octylester, 4-(Dimethylamino)-benzoesäureamylester, A- Methoxyzimtsäure-2-ethylhexylester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäurepropylester, 4-Methoxyzimt- säureisopentylester, 2-Cyano-3,3-phenylzimtsäure-2-ethylhexylester (Octocrylene), Salicylsäure- 2-ethylhexylester, Salicylsäure-4-isopropylbenzylester, Salicylsäurehomomenthylester (3,3,5- Trimethyl-cyclohexylsalicylat), 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'- methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2-(4'-Diethylamino-2'- hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoesäurehexylester (auch: Aminobenzophenon, unter der Bezeichnung Uvinul A Plus bei der Firma BASF erhältlich), 4-Methoxybenzmalonsäuredi-2-ethylhexylester, an Polymere gebundene UV-Filter, z. B. das 3-(4-(2,2-Bis-Ethoxycarbonylvinyl)-phenoxy)propenyl)- methoxysiloxan/ Dimethylsiloxan-Copolymer mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Dimethicodiethylbenzal malonate (CAS-Nr. 207574-74-1 , Parsol® SLX), Triazinderivate, wie z. B. 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-Ethyl- hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazin (INCI: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazin, unter dem Namen Tinosorb S bei CIBA erhältlich), Dioctylbutylamido- triazon (INCI: Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, unter dem Namen Uvasorb® HEB bei Sigma 3V erhältlich), 2,4,6-Trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1 '-hexyloxy)-1 ,3,5-triazin (Ethylhexyl Triazone, Uvinul® T 150), 2-[4,6-Bis(2,4-dimethylphenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazin-2-yl]-5-(octyloxy)phenol (CAS Nr.: 2725- 22-6), 2,4-bis-[5-1(di-methylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)-imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)-imino-1 ,3,5- triazin (CAS Nr. 288254-16-0, Uvasorb® K2A von 3V Sigma), die Benzotriazolderivate 2,2'-Methy- len-bis-(6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1 ,1 ,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)-phenol) [Tinosorb M (Ciba)], 2,2'- Methyl-bis-[6(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(methyl)phenol] (MIXXIM BB/200 der Firma Fairmount Chemical), 2-(2'-Hydroxy-3',5'-di-t-amylphenyl)benzotriazol (CAS- Nr.: 025973-551 ), 2-(2'-Hydroxy-5'- octylphenyl)-benzotriazol (CAS-Nr. 003147-75-9), 2-(2'-Hydroxy-5'-methylphenyl)benzotriazol (CAS-Nr. 2440-22-4), 2-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-6-[2-methyl-3-[1 ,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 -((tri- methylsilyl)oxy]disiloxanyl)propyl]-phenol (CAS-Nr.: 155633-54-8) mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Dro- metrizole Trisiloxane, 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)- 1 ,3,5-triazin (INCI: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazin oder auch Aniso Triazin, erhältlich als Tinosorb® S von CIBA), 2,4-Bis-{[4-(3-sulfonato)-2-hydroxy-propyloxy)-2-hydroxy]- phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazin-Natriumsalz, 2,4-Bis-{[4-(3-(2-propyloxy)-2-hydroxy- propyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazin, 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-ethyl-hexyloxy)-2- hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-[4-(2-methoxyethylcarboxyl)-phenylamino]-1 ,3,5-triazin, 2,4-Bis-{[4-(3-(2- propyloxy)-2-hydroxy-propyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-[4-(ethylcarboxyl)-phenylamino]-1 ,3,5- triazin, 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(1-methyl-pyrrol-2-yl)-1 ,3,5-triazin, 2,4- Bis-{[4-tris(trimethylsiloxy-silylpropyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazin, 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-methylpropenyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazin, 2,4-Bis- {[4-(1',1 ',1',3',5',5',5'-Heptamethylsiloxy-2-methyl-propyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4- methoxyphenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazin sowie Mischungen der genannten Komponenten. Bevorzugte wasserlösliche UV-Filter sind 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure, Phenylen-1 ,4-bis- (2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure und deren Alkali-, Erdalkali-, Ammonium-, Alkylammo- nium-, Alkanolammonium- und Glucammoniumsalze, insbesondere die Sulfonsäure selbst mit der INCI Bezeichnung Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (CAS. -Nr. 27503-81-7), die beispielsweise unter dem Handelsnamen Eusolex 232 bei Merck oder unter Neo Heliopan Hydro bei Symrise erhältlich ist, und das Phenylen-1 ,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure-bis-natriumsalz mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazol Tetrasulfonate (CAS-Nr.: 180898-37- 7), das beispielsweise unter dem Handelsnamen Neo Heliopan AP bei Symrise erhältlich ist, SuI- fonsäurederivate von Benzophenonen, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon-5-sul- fonsäure und ihre Salze, Sulfonsäurederivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z. B. 4-(2-Oxo-3- bornylidenmethyl)benzolsulfonsäure und 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornyliden)sulfonsäure und deren Salze mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Terephthalydene Dicampher Sulfonic Acid (CAS. -Nr.: 90457-82- 2, als Mexoryl SX von der Firma Chimex erhältlich).The organic UV filters preferred according to the invention are selected from the derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, cinnamic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, benzophenone, camphor, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, o-aminobenzoic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles, symmetrically or unsymmetrically substituted 1,3,5-triazines, monomers and oligomeric 4,4-diarylbutadiene carboxylic acid esters and carboxamides, ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane, benzalmalonic acid esters, benzoxazole and any desired mixtures of the stated components. The organic UV filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. The benzoxazole derivatives are advantageously present in dissolved form in the cosmetic preparations according to the invention. However, it may also be advantageous if the benzoxazole derivatives are present in a pigmentary, ie undissolved form, for example in particle sizes of from 10 nm to 300 nm. According to the invention particularly preferred oil-soluble UV filters are 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphe- nyl) propane-1, 3-dione (Parsol ® 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4 '-isopropylphenyl) propane-1, 3 dione, 3- (4' - methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4- (dimethyl- amino) benzoic acid 2-octyl ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid ester, 2-ethylhexyl A-methoxycinnamate, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene) , 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate (3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2.2 '-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'-hydroxybenzoyl) -benzoesäurhexylester (also: aminobenzophenone, available under the name Uvinul A Plus from BASF), 4-Methoxybenzmalonsäuredi-2-ethylhexylester to Polymer bound UV filters, eg. B. the 3- (4- (2,2-bis-ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) - methoxysiloxane / dimethylsiloxane copolymer having the INCI name Dimethicodiethylbenzal malonate (CAS No. 207574-74-1, Parsol ® SLX) , Triazine derivatives, such as. For example, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, available under the name Tinosorb S from CIBA), Dioctylbutylamido- triazone (INCI: Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, available under the name Uvasorb HEB from Sigma 3V ®), 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'- ethyl-1 '-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine (ethylhexyl triazone, Uvinul ® T 150), 2- [4,6-bis (2,4-dimethylphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazin-2 -yl] -5- (octyloxy) phenol (CAS No .: 2725-22-6), 2,4-bis [5-1 (di-methylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl (4-phenyl) -imino ] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1, 3,5- triazine (CAS no. 288254-16-0, Uvasorb K2A ® from 3V Sigma), the benzotriazole derivatives of 2,2'-methylene-bis- len (6- (2H-Benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -phenol) [Tinosorb M (Ciba)], 2,2'-methyl-bis- [6 (2H benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (methyl) phenol] (MIXXIM BB / 200 from Fairmount Chemical), 2- (2'-hydroxy-3 ', 5'-di-t-amylphenyl) benzotriazole (CAS). No .: 025973-551), 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-oc tylphenyl) benzotriazole (CAS no. 003147-75-9), 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-methylphenyl) benzotriazole (CAS No. 2440-22-4), 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6 - [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - ((trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl) propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI -Description Dromizole Trisiloxanes, 2,4-Bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI : bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine or Aniso triazine, available as Tinosorb S from CIBA ®), 2,4-bis - {[4- (3-sulfonato) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] - phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine sodium salt, 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] - phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- [4- (2-methoxyethylcarboxyl) phenylamino] -1, 3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- [4- (ethylcarboxyl) -phenylamino] -1, 3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (1) methyl-pyrrole l-2-yl) -1, 3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4-tris (trimethylsiloxy-silylpropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-methylpropenyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine, 2,4- Bis- [[4- (1 ', 1', 1 ', 3', 5 ', 5', 5'-heptamethylsiloxy-2-methyl-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4- methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine and mixtures of the said components. Preferred water-soluble UV filters are 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, Alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts, in particular the sulfonic acid itself with the INCI name phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (CAS No. 27503-81-7), for example available under the trade name Eusolex 232 from Merck or Neo Heliopan Hydro from Symrise, and the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate (CAS No .: 180898-37-7), which is available, for example, under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP from Symrise, sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5 sulfonic acid and its salts, sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) sulfonic acid and its salts with the INCI name Terephthalydene Dicampher Sulfonic Acid (CAS. 90457-82-2, available as Mexoryl SX from Chimex).
Einige der öllöslichen UV-Filter können selbst als Lösungsmittel oder Lösungsvermittler für andere UV-Filter dienen. So lassen sich beispielsweise Lösungen des UV-A-Filters 1-(4-tert.- Butylphenyl)-3-(4'methoxyphenyl)propan-1 ,3-dion (z. B. Parsol® 1789) in verschiedenen UV-B- Filtern herstellen. Die erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen enthalten daher in einer weiteren bevorzugten Ausführungsform 1-(4-tert.-Butylphenyl)-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)propan-1 ,3-dion in Kombination mit mindestens einem UV-B-Filter, ausgewählt aus 4-Methoxyzimtsäure-2- ethylhexylester, 2-Cyano-3,3-phenylzimtsäure-2-ethylhexylester, Salicylsäure-2-ethylhexylester und SΛS-Trimethyl-cyclohexylsalicylat. In diesen Kombinationen liegt das Gewichtsverhältnis von UV-B-Filter zu 1-(4-tert.-Butylphenyl)-3-(4'methoxyphenyl)propan-1 ,3-dion zwischen 1 :1 und 10:1 , bevorzugt zwischen 2:1 und 8:1 , das molare Verhältnis liegt entsprechend zwischen 0,3 und 3,8, bevorzugt zwischen 0,7 und 3,0.Some of the oil-soluble UV filters can themselves serve as solvents or solubilizers for other UV filters. Thus, solutions of the UV-A-filter 1 can be, for example, (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione (z. B. Parsol ® 1789) in various UV-B - Make filters. Therefore, in a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione in combination with at least one UV-B filter selected from 4 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate and SΛS-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate. In these combinations, the weight ratio of UV-B filter to 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione is between 1: 1 and 10: 1, preferably between 2 : 1 and 8: 1, the molar ratio is between 0.3 and 3.8, preferably between 0.7 and 3.0.
Bei den erfindungsgemäß bevorzugten anorganischen Lichtschutzpigmenten handelt es sich um feindisperse oder kolloiddisperse Metalloxide und Metallsalze, beispielsweise Titandioxid, Zinkoxid, Eisenoxid, Aluminiumoxid, Ceroxid, Zirkoniumoxid, Silicate (Talk) und Bariumsulfat. Die Partikel sollten dabei einen mittleren Durchmesser von weniger als 100 nm, vorzugsweise zwischen 5 und 50 nm und insbesondere zwischen 15 und 30 nm aufweisen, so genannte Nanopigmente. Sie können eine sphärische Form aufweisen, es können jedoch auch solche Partikel zum Einsatz kommen, die eine ellipsoide oder in sonstiger Weise von der sphärischen Gestalt abweichende Form besitzen. Die Pigmente können auch oberflächenbehandelt, d.h. hydrophilisiert oder hydrophobiert vorliegen. Typische Beispiele sind gecoatete Titandioxide, wie z. B. Titandioxid T 805 (Degussa) oder Eusolex® T2000 (Merck). Als hydrophobe Coatingmittel kommen dabei vor allem Silicone und dabei speziell Trialkoxyoctylsilane oder Simethicone in Frage. Besonders bevorzugt sind Titandioxid und Zinkoxid.The inventively preferred inorganic photoprotective pigments are finely dispersed or colloidally disperse metal oxides and metal salts, for example titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc) and barium sulfate. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm, so-called nanopigments. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating shape from the spherical shape. The pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, such as. Example, titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex ® T2000 (Merck). Suitable hydrophobic coating agents are in particular silicones and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones. Particularly preferred are titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.
Erfindungsgemäß sind die organischen UV-Filtersubstanzen bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,1 - 30 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,5 - 20 Gew.-%, außerordentlich bevorzugt 1 ,0 - 15 Gew.-% und weiter bevorzugt 3,0 - 10 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf die gesamte Zusammensetzung, enthalten.According to the invention, the organic UV filter substances are preferably in amounts of 0.1-30% by weight, more preferably 0.5-20% by weight, most preferably 1.0-0.5% by weight and more preferably 3.0 - 10 wt .-%, each based on the total composition included.
Erfindungsgemäß sind die anorganischen UV-Filtersubstanzen bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,1 - 15 Gew.-%, mehr bevorzugt 0,5 - 10 Gew.-%, außerordentlich bevorzugt 1 ,0 - 5 Gew.-% und weiter bevorzugt 2,0 - 4,0 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf die gesamte Zusammensetzung, enthalten. Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Pflegeemulsionen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie zusätzlich zu der zwingenden Wirkstoffkombination nach Anspruch 1 mindestens einen selbstbräunenden Wirkstoff enthalten. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte selbstbräunende Wirkstoffe sind ausgewählt aus Dihydroxyaceton, Erythrulose und 5,6-Dihydroxyindolin. Erfindungsgemäß sind die selbstbräunenden Wirkstoffe in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,01 - 15 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,1 - 10 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 1 ,0 - 5 Gew.-% und außerordentlich bevorzugt 2,0 - 4,0 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf die gesamte Zusammensetzung, enthalten. Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Pflegeemulsionen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie zusätzlich zu der zwingenden Wirkstoffkombination nach Anspruch 1 mindestens einen hautberuhigenden Wirkstoff enthalten. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte hautberuhigende Wirkstoffe sind ausgewählt aus Allantoin, α-Bisabolol, α-Liponsäure, Extrakten aus Centella asiatica, beispielsweise erhältlich unter der Bezeichnung Madecassicoside von DSM, Glycyrrethinsäure, die besonders bevorzugt in Liposomen verkapselt vorliegt und in dieser Form z. B. unter dem Handelsnamen Calmsphere von Soliance erhältlich ist, Mischungen aus Getreidewachsen, Extrakten aus Schibutter und Argania Spinosa-Öl mit der INCI-Bezeichnung „Spent grain wax and Butyrosper- mum Parkii (shea butter) extract and Argania Spinosa Kernel OiI", wie sie z. B. unter der Handelsbezeichnung Stimu-Tex AS von der Firma Pentapharm erhältlich sind, Extrakten aus Vanilla Tahi- tensis, wie sie z. B. unter der Handelsbezeichnung Vanirea (INCI : Vanilla Tahitensis Fruit Extract) von der Firma Solabia erhältlich sind, Alginhydrolysaten, wie sie z. B. unter der Handelsbezeichnung Phycosaccharide, insbesondere Phycosaccharide AI, von der Firma Codif erhältlich sind, Extrakten aus Bacopa Monniera, wie sie z. B. unter der Handelsbezeichnung Bacocalmine von der Firma Sederma erhältlich sind, Extrakten aus der Rooibos-Pflanze, wie sie z. B. unter dem Handelsnamen Rooibos Herbasec MPE von der Firma Cosmetochem erhältlich sind, Hefeextrakten, besonders bevorzugt das Handelsprodukt Drieline (INCI-Bezeichnung "Sorbitol, Yeast Extract"), erhältlich von der Firma Lanatech, den physiologisch verträglichen Salzen von Sterolsulfaten, wie sie z. B. unter dem Handelsnamen Phytocohesine (INCI: Sodium Beta- Sitosterylsulfate) von der Firma Vincience erhältlich sind, Aminodicarbonsäuren mit einer C- Kettenlänge von 3 - 6 Kohlenstoffatomen sowie deren physiologisch verträglichen Salzen, bevorzugt ausgewählt aus Aminomalonsäure, Aminobernsteinsäure (= Asparaginsäure), Amino- glutarsäure und Aminoadipinsäure sowie deren physiologisch verträglichen Salzen wie Kalium- aspartat und Magnesiumaspartat, Extrakten aus den Samen von Cucurbita pepo (Zucchini), Extrakten aus Mentha piperita, insbesondere aus den Blättern von Mentha piperita, N-acylierten Alkanolaminen, insbesondere N-Palmitoylethanolamin, Hydrolysaten und/oder Extrakten aus der Alge Enteromorpha compressa (Darmtang, eine Grünalge), insbesondere aus dem Vegetationskörper ("Phallus) der Alge, kommerziell erhältlich z. B. unter dem Handelsnamen Enteline 2, weiterhin ausgewählt aus dem Dipeptid Tyr-Arg, dessen Estern und dessen N-Acyl- Derivaten, insbesondere N-Acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyldecylester (z. B. Calmosensine von Sederma, sowie beliebigen Mischungen dieser Substanzen.According to the invention, the inorganic UV filter substances are preferably present in amounts of 0.1-15% by weight, more preferably 0.5-10% by weight, even more preferably 1.0-0.5% by weight and more preferably 2.0 - 4.0 wt .-%, each based on the total composition included. Further care emulsions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one self-tanning active ingredient in addition to the compulsory active ingredient combination according to claim 1. Self-tanning active ingredients preferred according to the invention are selected from dihydroxyacetone, erythrulose and 5,6-dihydroxyindoline. According to the invention, the self-tanning active ingredients are present in a total amount of 0.01-15% by weight, preferably 0.1-10% by weight, more preferably 1.0-0.5% by weight and most preferably 2.0-4. 0 wt .-%, each based on the total composition included. Further care emulsions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one skin-soothing active ingredient in addition to the compelling active ingredient combination according to claim 1. Skin-soothing active ingredients preferred according to the invention are selected from allantoin, α-bisabolol, α-lipoic acid, extracts from Centella asiatica, for example obtainable under the name Madecassicoside from DSM, glycyrrethic acid, which is particularly preferably encapsulated in liposomes and in this form z. Sold under the trade name Calmsphere by Soliance, mixtures of cereal waxes, extracts of shea butter and Argania spinosa oil with the INCI name "Spent grain wax and Butyrospermum Parkii (shea butter) extract and Argania Spinosa Kernel OiI", such as they are available, for example, under the trade name Stimu-Tex AS from the company Pentapharm, extracts from vanilla tahtensis, such as those obtainable, for example, under the trade name Vanirea (INCI: Vanilla Tahitensis Fruit Extract) from Solabia , Alginhydrolysaten, as they are available, for example, under the trade name Phycosaccharide, in particular Phycosaccharide AI, from Codif, extracts from Bacopa Monniera, as they are available, for example, under the trade name Bacocalmine from Sederma, extracts from the Rooibos plant, as available, for example, under the trade name Rooibos Herbasec MPE from the company Cosmetochem, yeast extracts, particularly preferably the trade Drieline (INCI name "sorbitol, Yeast Extract"), available from the company Lanatech, the physiologically acceptable salts of sterol sulfates, as z. B. under the trade name phytocohesins (INCI: Sodium Beta-sitosteryl) are available from the company Vincience, aminodicarboxylic acids having a carbon chain length of 3 to 6 carbon atoms and their physiologically acceptable salts, preferably selected from aminomalonic, aminosuccinic (= aspartic acid), amino glutaric acid and aminoadipic acid and their physiologically acceptable salts such as potassium aspartate and magnesium aspartate, extracts of the seeds of Cucurbita pepo (zucchini), extracts of Mentha piperita, in particular of the leaves of Mentha piperita, N-acylated alkanolamines, especially N-palmitoylethanolamine, Hydrolysates and / or extracts from the algae Enteromorpha compressa (Darmtang, a green alga), in particular from the vegetation body ( " phallus " ) of the alga, commercially available, for example, under the trade name Enteline 2, further selected from the dipeptide Tyr-Arg, whose Esters and its N-acyl derivatives, in particular NA cetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyldecyl ester (e.g. As calmosensins of Sederma, as well as any mixtures of these substances.
Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Extrakte aus den Samen von Cucurbita pepo (Zucchini) sind beispielsweise in den Handelsprodukten Curbilene (ex lndena SpA, INCI: Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin) seed extract), Ocaline (ex Soliance, INCI: Sea Water (and) Water (and) Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin) seed extract), ARP 100 (ex Greentech, INCI: Water, Alcohol, Serenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract, Epilobium Angustifolium Extract, Cucurbita Pepo (Pumpkin) Seed Extract), ARP 100 Huileux (ex Greentech, INCI: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Serenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Cucurbita Pepo (Pumpkin) Seed Extract), Cucurbi- tine (ex Christian Dior Parfüms, INCI: Water (and) Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin) seed extract), Her- basol Extract Pumpkin (ex Cosmetochem, INCI: Water (and) Propylene glycol (and) Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin) seed extract) und Pumpkin Extract (ex Draco Natural Products, INCI: Water (and) Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin) seed extract) enthalten.Extracts of the seeds of Cucurbita pepo (courgettes) which are particularly preferred according to the invention are described, for example, in the commercial products Curbilene (ex lndena SpA, INCI: Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin) seed extract), Ocaline (ex Soliance, INCI: Sea Water (and) Water (and) Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin seed extract), ARP 100 (ex Greentech, INCI: Water, Alcohol, Serenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract, Epilobium Angustifolium Extract, Cucurbita Pepo (Pumpkin) Seed Extract), ARP 100 Huileux (ex Greentech, INCI: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, Serenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower / Leaf / Stem Extract, Cucurbita Pepo (Pumpkin) Seed Extract), Cucurbi - Tine (ex Christian Dior Perfume, INCI: Water (and) Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin) seed extract), Herbal Extract Pumpkin (ex Cosmetochem, INCI: Water (and) Propylene glycol (and) Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin) seed extract ) and Pumpkin Extract (ex Draco Natural Products, INCI: Water (and) Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin seed extract)).
Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Extrakte aus Mentha piperita, insbesondere aus den Blättern von Mentha piperita, sind beispielsweise in den Handelsprodukten Calmiskin OP (ex Silab, INCI: Water (and) Mentha piperita (Peppermint) Leaf Extract) und Caomint (ex Solabia, INCI: Propylene Glycol, Water, Mentha piperita (Peppermint) Leaf Extract, Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Extract) enthalten.Mentha piperita extracts which are particularly preferred according to the invention, in particular from the leaves of Mentha piperita, are described, for example, in the commercial products Calmiskin OP (ex Silab, INCI: Water (and) Mentha piperita (Peppermint Leaf Extract) and Caomint (ex Solabia, INCI: Propylene Glycol, Water, Mentha piperita (Peppermint) leaf extract, Theobroma cacao (Cocoa) extract).
Die hautberuhigenden Wirkstoffe sind bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,001 bis 5 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,01 bis 2 Gew.-% und außerordentlich bevorzugt 0,1 bis 1 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf die gesamte Zusammensetzung, enthalten.The skin-soothing active ingredients are preferably present in amounts of 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01 to 2 wt .-% and most preferably 0.1 to 1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.
Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Pflegeemulsionen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie zusätzlich zu der zwingenden Wirkstoffkombination nach Anspruch 1 mindestens einen sebum- regulierenden Wirkstoff. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte sebumregulierende Wirkstoffe sind ausgewählt aus Azelainsäure, Sebacinsäure, 10-Hydroxydecansäure, 1 ,10-Decandiol, die als erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Dreierkombination in dem Handelsprodukt Acnacidol PG von Vincience eingesetzt werden, weiterhin aus dem Handelsprodukt Azeloglicina (Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate) von Sinerga, Extrakten aus Spiraea Ulmaria, wie sie z. B. im Produkt Seboregul der Firma Silab enthalten sind, weiterhin aus wasser- und öllöslichen Extrakten aus Hamamelis, Klettenwurzel und Brennessel, Zimtbaumextract (z. B. Sepicontrol® A5 von der Firma Seppic), Chrysanthemenextrakt (z. B. Laricyl® von Laboratoires Serobiologiques) und den Wirkstoffmischungen Asebiol® BT 2 (Laboratoires Serobiologiques, INCI: Aqua, Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein, Pyridoxine, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Panthenol, , Allantoin, Biotin) und Antifettfaktor® CC1S- 218/2-A (Cosmetochem, INCI: Aqua, Cetyl-PCA, PEG-8 Isolauryl Thioether, PCA, Cetyl Alcohol). Die sebumregulierenden Wirkstoffe sind bevorzugt in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,001 bis 5 Gew.- %, besonders bevorzugt 0,01 bis 2 Gew.-% und außerordentlich bevorzugt 0,1 bis 1 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf die gesamte Zusammensetzung, enthalten.Further care emulsions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, in addition to the compulsory active substance combination according to claim 1, at least one sebum-regulating active substance. Sebum-regulating active substances which are preferred according to the invention are selected from azelaic acid, sebacic acid, 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, 1,10-decanediol which are used as the triple combination according to the invention in the commercial product acnacidol PG from Vincience, furthermore from the commercial product Azeloglicina (potassium azeloyl diglycinate) from Sinerga, Extracts of Spiraea Ulmaria, as they are eg. As in the product Seboregul the company Silab are included, further water and oil soluble extracts of Hamamelis, burdock and nettles, Zimtbaumextract (z. B. Sepicontrol ® A5 by the company SEPPIC), chrysanthemum extract (z. B. Laricyl ® from Laboratoires Serobiologiques) and the active compound mixtures Asebiol ® BT 2 (Laboratoires Serobiologiques, INCI: Aqua, Hydrolyzed Yeast protein, Pyridoxine, Niacinamide, glycerol, panthenol, allantoin, biotin) and antiobesity factor ® CC 1 S- 218/2-A (Cosmetochem, INCI : Aqua, Cetyl PCA, PEG-8 Isolauryl Thioether, PCA, Cetyl Alcohol). The sebum-regulating active ingredients are preferably present in a total amount of 0.001 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.01 to 2% by weight and most preferably 0.1 to 1% by weight, based in each case on the total composition.
Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Pflegeemulsionen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie zusätzlich zu der zwingenden Wirkstoffkombination nach Anspruch 1 mindestens ein Polysaccharid enthalten, das in einer bevorzugten Ausführungsform ausgewählt ist aus Glycosaminglycanen, besonders bevorzugt aus Hvaluronsäure, Dextran, Dextransulfat, Chondroitin-4-sulfat und Chondroitin-6-sulfat und insbesondere bevorzugt aus Hyaluronsäure. Das Polysaccharid wird den erfindungsgemäßen Pflegeemulsionen - bezogen auf derenFurther care emulsions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, in addition to the compulsory active ingredient combination according to claim 1, at least one polysaccharide which in a preferred embodiment is selected from glycosaminoglycans, more preferably from hvaluronic acid, dextran, dextran sulfate, chondroitin 4-sulfate and chondroitin. 6-sulphate and most preferably from hyaluronic acid. The polysaccharide is the care emulsions according to the invention - based on the
Gesmtgewicht - in einer Menge von 0,0001 bis 2 Gew.-%, bevorzugt von 0,0005 bis 1 ,5 Gew.-% und insbesondere in Mengen von 0,001 bis 1 Gew.-% zugegeben.Total weight - in an amount of 0.0001 to 2 wt .-%, preferably from 0.0005 to 1, 5 wt .-% and in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 1 wt .-% added.
In einer besonders bevorzugten Ausführungsform der Erfindung enthalten die Pflegeemulsionen zusätzlich zu der zwingenden Wirkstoffkombination nach Anspruch 1 mindestens einIn a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the care emulsions in addition to the compelling active ingredient combination according to claim 1 at least one
Feuchthaltemittel bzw. einen Penetrationshilfsstoff. Hierzu sind beispielsweise zu zählenHumectants or a penetration aid. These include, for example, to count
Harnstoff und Harnstoffderivate, Guanidin und dessen Derivate, Arginin und dessen Derivate,Urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives,
Wasserglas, Imidazol und dessen Derivate, Histidin und dessen Derivate, Benzylalkohol,Water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol,
Glycerin, Sorbitol, Milchsäure, Glykol und Glykolether, Propylenglykol und Propylenglykolether, beispielsweise Propylenglykolmonoethylether, Carbonate, Hydrogencarbonate, Diole und Triole, und insbesondere 1 ,2-Diole und 1 ,3-Diole wie beispielsweise 1 ,2-Propandiol, 1 ,2-Pentandiol, 1 ,2-Glycerol, sorbitol, lactic acid, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, diols and triols, and in particular 1, 2-diols and 1, 3-diols such as 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 2- Pentanediol, 1, 2-
Hexandiol, 1 ,2-Dodecandiol, 1 ,3-Propandiol, 1 ,6-Hexandiol, 1 ,5-Pentandiol, 1 ,4-Butandiol.Hexanediol, 1, 2-dodecanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1, 6-hexanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 4-butanediol.
Besonders bevorzugt sind Glycerin und Sorbitol.Particularly preferred are glycerol and sorbitol.
Die Feuchthaltemittel bzw. Penetrationshilfsstoffe werden den erfindungsgemäßenThe humectants or penetration aids are the inventive
Pflegeemulsionen - bezogen auf deren Gesamtgewicht - in einer Menge von 0,1 bis 15 Gew.-%, bevorzugt von 0,25 bis 10 Gew.-% und insbesondere von 0,5 bis 5 Gew.-% zugesetzt.Care emulsions - based on their total weight - in an amount of 0.1 to 15 wt .-%, preferably from 0.25 to 10 wt .-% and in particular from 0.5 to 5 wt .-% added.
Die erfindungsgemäßen Pflegeemulsionen weisen einen pH-Wert im hautschonenden Bereich von 3,5 bis 7,5, bevorzugt von 4 bis 7 und insbesondere von 4,5 bis 6,5 auf.The care emulsions according to the invention have a pH in the skin-friendly range of from 3.5 to 7.5, preferably from 4 to 7 and in particular from 4.5 to 6.5.
Darüber hinaus können die erfindungsgemäßen Emulsionen fakultativ die weiteren Hilfs-, Zusatz- und Wirkstoffe enthalten:In addition, the emulsions according to the invention may optionally contain the further auxiliaries, additives and active ingredients:
- Desodorierende Wirkstoffe wirken Körpergerüchen entgegen, überdecken oder beseitigen sie. Körpergerüche entstehen durch die Einwirkung von Hautbakterien auf apokrinen Schweiß, wobei unangenehm riechende Abbauprodukte gebildet werden. Dementsprechend eignen sich als deosodorierende Wirkstoffe u.a. keimhemmende Mittel, Enzyminhibitoren, Geruchsabsorber oder Geruchsüberdecker.- Deodorizing agents counteract, cover or eliminate body odors. Body odors are caused by the action of skin bacteria on apocrine sweat, forming unpleasant-smelling degradation products. Accordingly, suitable as deodorizing agents u.a. germ inhibitors, enzyme inhibitors, odor absorbers or odor maskers.
- Insekten-Repellentien: Als Insekten-Repellentien kommen beispielsweise N,N-Diethyl-m- toluamid, 1 ,2-Pentandiol oder 3-(N-n-Butyl-N-acetyl-amino)-propionsäureethylester), welches unter der Bezeichnung Insect Repellent 3535 von der Merck KGaA vertrieben wird, sowie Butylacetylaminopropionate in Frage.Insect repellents: Examples of insect repellents are N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1, 2-pentanediol or 3- (Nn-butyl-N-acetylamino) -propionic acid ethyl ester), which is designated Insect Repellent 3535 sold by Merck KGaA, as well as Butylacetylaminopropionate in question.
- Selbstbräuner: Als Selbstbräuner eignet sich Dihydroxyaceton. Als Tyrosininhibitoren, die die Bildung von Melanin verhindern und Anwendung in Depigmentierungsmitteln finden, kommen beispielsweise Arbutin, Ferulasäure, Kojisäure, Cumarinsäure und Ascorbinsäure (Vitamin C) in Frage.- Self-tanner: Suitable self-tanner is dihydroxyacetone. As tyrosine inhibitors which prevent the formation of melanin and find application in depigmenting agents, for example, arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, coumaric acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C) come into question.
- Konservierungsmittel: Als Konservierungsmittel eignen sich beispielsweise Phenoxyethanol, Formaldehydlösung, Parabene, Pentandiol oder Sorbinsäure sowie die unter der Bezeichnung SurfacineG bekannten Silberkomplexe und die in Anlage 6, Teil A und B der Kosmetikverordnung aufgeführten weiteren Stoffklassen.Preservatives: Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid and the silver complexes known under the name SurfacineG and the further classes of compounds listed in Appendix 6, Part A and B of the Cosmetics Regulation.
- Parfümöle: Als Parfümöle seien genannt Gemische aus natürlichen und synthetischen Riechstoffen. Natürliche Riechstoffe sind Extrakte von Blüten, Stängeln und Blättern, Früchten, Fruchtschalen, Wurzeln, Hölzern, Kräutern und Gräsern, Nadeln und Zweigen, Harzen und Balsamen. Weiterhin kommen tierische Rohstoffe, wie beispielsweise Zibet und Castoreum sowie synthetische Riechstoffverbindungen vom Typ der Ester, Ether, Aldehyde, Ketone, Alkohole und- Perfume oils: Perfume oils are mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peels, roots, woods, herbs and grasses, needles and twigs, resins and Balsams. Furthermore, animal raw materials, such as civet and Castoreum and synthetic fragrance compounds of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and
Kohlenwasserstoffe in Frage.Hydrocarbons in question.
- Farbstoffe: Als Farbstoffe können die für kosmetische Zwecke geeigneten und zugelassenen- Dyes: Dyes which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes
Substanzen verwendet werden. Beispiele sind Cochenillerot A (Cl. 16255), Patentblau VSubstances are used. Examples are Cochenillerot A (Cl.16255), Patent Blue V
(C.1.42051 ), lndigotin (C.1.73015), Chlorophyllin (C.1.75810), Chinolingelb (C.1.47005),(C.1.42051), indigotin (C.1.73015), chlorophyllin (C.1.75810), quinoline yellow (C.1.47005),
Titandioxid (C.1. 77891 ), Indanthrenblau RS (C.1. 69800) und Krapplack (C.1.58000). DieseTitanium dioxide (C.1.77891), Indanthrenblau RS (C.1 69800) and Krapplack (C.1.58000). These
Farbstoffe werden üblicherweise in Konzentrationen von 0,001 bis 0,1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte Mischung, eingesetzt.Dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1 wt .-%, based on the total mixture.
Die erfindungsgemäßen Pflegeemulsionen sind insbesondere für die Applikation in einem manuell betätigbaren System mit Pumpmechanismus geeignet.The care emulsions according to the invention are particularly suitable for application in a manually operable system with a pumping mechanism.
Besonders bevorzugt ist es, wenn die erfindungsgemäße Pflegeemulsion in einemIt is particularly preferred if the care emulsion according to the invention in a
Schaumspender mit einem Pumpmechanismus zur Verschäumung mit Luft enthalten ist. Ein derartiger Schaumspender ermöglicht es, auf Treibgase zu verzichten. Besonders vorteilhaft bei diesem Typ von Spendern ist auch, dass die Anwendung besonders einfach ist, der entstehendeFoam dispenser with a pump mechanism for foaming with air is included. Such a foam dispenser makes it possible to dispense with propellant gases. Also particularly advantageous in this type of dispensers is that the application is particularly simple, the resulting
Schaum eine leichte und cremige Textur, keine Drainage sowie eine einfache Verteilbarkeit aufweist, wodurch alle vorgenannten positiven Effekte auf der Haut erzielt werden können.Foam has a light and creamy texture, no drainage and a simple spreadability, whereby all the above-mentioned positive effects on the skin can be achieved.
Erfindungsgemäß besonders geeignete Schaumspender werden in den Anmeldungen WOFoam dispensers which are particularly suitable according to the invention are disclosed in applications WO
2003/088941 und WO 2004/078902 ausführlich beschrieben. Auf diese Anmeldungen wird hinsichtlich der Beschreibung des Pumpspenders daher ausdrücklich Bezug genommen.2003/088941 and WO 2004/078902 described in detail. These applications are therefore expressly incorporated by reference to the description of the pump dispenser.
Diese für die erfindungsgemäßen Pflegeemulsionen besonders geeigneten Schaumspender sind im Handel unter den Bezeichnungen M3 und F3 von der Firma Airspray erhältlich.These foam dispensers which are particularly suitable for the care emulsions according to the invention are commercially available under the names M3 and F3 from Airspray.
Um unter Verwendung eines manuellen Pumpspenders aufschäumbar zu sein, sind bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße Zusammensetzungen gekennzeichnet durch eine Viskosität bei 21 0C imTo be foamable using a manual pump dispenser, preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized by a viscosity at 21 0 C in
Bereich von 50 - 1500 mPas, bevorzugt 100 - 1000 mPas, besonders bevorzugt 400 - 850 mPas, außerordentlich bevorzugt 500 - 750 mPas, gemessen mit einem BrookfieldRange of 50-1500 mPas, preferably 100-1000 mPas, more preferably 400-850 mPas, most preferably 500-750 mPas, measured with a Brookfield
Rotationsviskosimeter, Spindel Nr. 1 bei einer Rotationsgeschwindigkeit von 20 UpM oder mit einer Spindel T-A bei einer Rotationsgeschwindigkeit von 12 UpM.Rotational viscometer, spindle no. 1 at a rotational speed of 20 rpm or with a spindle T-A at a rotational speed of 12 rpm.
Die folgenden Beispiele sollen den Gegenstand der Erfindung näher beschreiben, ohne ihn darauf einzuschränken. Die Mengenangaben beziehen sich dabei - sofern nicht anders angegeben - auf Gew.-%. The following examples are intended to further describe the subject matter of the invention without limiting it thereto. The amounts are based on - unless otherwise stated - wt .-%.
Beispiel für eine schäumbare SonnenschutzemulsionExample of a foamable sunscreen emulsion
Die Fett- und die Wasserphase werden auf ca. 800C erhitzt. Anschließend wird die Wasserphase unter Verwendung einer Dissolverscheibe mit der vorgelegten Fettphase emulgiert. Die Rührerdrehfrequenz wird während der Phasenvereinigung kontinuierlich von 250 auf 1400 rpm gesteigert. Bei einer Temperatur von 600C bzw. 40°C werden die Polymere (Carbomer und Alginatester) in Form einer Quellung in Wasser hinzugegeben. Nachdem die Emulsion unter Rühren auf ca. 300C abgekühlt ist, werden die Duftstoffe, Wirkstoffe und Konservierungsmittel eingearbeitet. Im Anschluss wird zuerst ein Drittel der hydrophilen Emulgatormischung hinzugegeben. Bei vollständiger Durchmischung nimmt die Viskosität der Emulsion stark ab und die Drehfrequenz des Rührorgans wird auf 300 rpm herunter geregelt. Direkt danach werden die verbleibenden zwei Drittel der hydrophilen Emulgatormischung eingearbeitet und die Drehfrequenz auf unter 300 rpm gesenkt. Der pH-Wert wird auf 5,1 eingestellt. Die Emulsion wird in einem Foamer des Modells F3 oder M3 der Firma Airspray konfektioniert. Der jeweilige Pflegeschaum kann auf diese Weise einfach und in der richtigen Dosierung für die Anwendung entnommen werden. Der Schaum ist besonders cremig und hinterlässt nach seiner Absorption auf der Haut ein mit Feuchtigkeit gesättigtes, glattes Hautgefühl. The fat and the water phase are heated to about 80 0 C. Subsequently, the water phase is emulsified using a Dissolverscheibe with the submitted fat phase. The stirrer rotation frequency is continuously increased during the phase combination from 250 to 1400 rpm. At a temperature of 60 0 C or 40 ° C, the polymers (carbomer and alginate) are added in the form of swelling in water. After the emulsion is cooled with stirring to about 30 0 C, the fragrances, agents and preservatives are incorporated. Subsequently, first one third of the hydrophilic emulsifier mixture is added. With complete mixing, the viscosity of the emulsion decreases sharply and the rotational frequency of the stirring element is controlled down to 300 rpm. Immediately thereafter, the remaining two-thirds of the hydrophilic emulsifier mixture are incorporated and the rotational frequency is reduced to below 300 rpm. The pH is adjusted to 5.1. The emulsion is packaged in a model F3 or M3 foam from Airspray. The respective care foam can be removed in this way easily and in the correct dosage for the application. The foam is particularly creamy and leaves a moisture-saturated, smooth skin feel after being absorbed into the skin.

Claims

Patentansprüche claims
1. Kosmetische Pflegeemulsion, die unter Verwendung eines manuellen Pumpspenders aufschäumbar ist, enthaltend1. A cosmetic care emulsion which is foamable using a manual pump dispenser containing
(A) eine Emulgatorkombination (i) + (ii) aus mindestens zwei W/O-Emulgatoren gleichen HLB- Werts, ausgewählt aus(A) an emulsifier combination (i) + (ii) of at least two W / O emulsifiers of the same HLB value, selected from
(i) mindestens einem Poly(12-hydroxystearinsäure)polyglycerinester und (ii) mindestens einem Silikonemulgator sowie(i) at least one poly (12-hydroxystearic acid) polyglycerol ester and (ii) at least one silicone emulsifier, and
(B) eine Tensidkombination (iii) + (iv) aus(B) a surfactant combination (iii) + (iv) from
(iii) mindestens einem anionischen Tensid und(iii) at least one anionic surfactant and
(iv) mindestens einem amphoteren und/oder zwitterionischen Tensid, und(iv) at least one amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactant, and
(C) 1 - 25 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Pflegeemulsion, mindestens einer Öl- oder Fettkomponente.(C) 1 to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the care emulsion, of at least one oil or fat component.
2. Pflegeemulsion nach Anspruch 1 , dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die HLB-Werte der Emulgatoren im Bereich von 2 bis 8, bevorzugt im Bereich von 3 bis 7 und insbesondere im Bereich von 4 bis 6 liegen.2. Care emulsion according to claim 1, characterized in that the HLB values of the emulsifiers in the range of 2 to 8, preferably in the range of 3 to 7 and in particular in the range of 4 to 6 are.
3. Pflegeemulsion nach einem der Ansprüche 1 oder 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie die Emulgatoren (i) und (ii) in einem Gewichtsverhältnis von 5 : 1 bis 1 : 4, bevorzugt von 3 : 1 bis 1 : 2 und insbesondere von 2 : 1 bis 1 : 1 enthält.3. Care emulsion according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that it contains the emulsifiers (i) and (ii) in a weight ratio of 5: 1 to 1: 4, preferably from 3: 1 to 1: 2 and in particular from 2 : 1 to 1: 1 contains.
4. Pflegeemulsion nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 3, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie als Silikonemulgator ein Organopolysiloxan-Polyoxyalkylen enthält.4. Care emulsion according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it contains as a silicone emulsifier an organopolysiloxane-polyoxyalkylene.
5. Pflegeemulsion nach Anspruch 4, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Silikonemulgator eine C8-C18-Alkylgruppe sowie eine oder mehrere Ethoxy- und/oder Propoxy-Gruppen enthält.5. care emulsion according to claim 4, characterized in that the silicone emulsifier contains a C8-C18 alkyl group and one or more ethoxy and / or propoxy groups.
6. Pflegeemulsion nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 5, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie als Tensidkombination eine Mischung aus milden anionischen und milden amphoteren und/oder zwitterionischen Tensiden enthält.6. Care emulsion according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it contains as surfactant combination a mixture of mild anionic and mild amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants.
7. Pflegeemulsion nach Anspruch 6, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Tenside ausgewählt sind aus einem oder mehreren Tensiden der Gruppe (iii) der Acylaminosäuren, alpha- Olefinsulfonate, ethoxylierte Alkylschwefelsäurester, Sulfobernsteinsäureester, Ethercarbonsäuren und/oder den Salzen dieser Verbindungen, sowie aus einem oder mehreren Tensiden der Gruppe (iv) der Alkylbetaine, Alkylamidoalkylbetaine, Aminopropionate, Aminoglycinate, Sulfobetaine und/oder Imidazoliniumbetaine und/oder den Salzen dieser Verbindungen. 7. care emulsion according to claim 6, characterized in that the surfactants are selected from one or more surfactants of group (iii) the acyl amino acids, alpha-olefin, ethoxylated alkyl sulfuric, sulfosuccinic, ether carboxylic acids and / or the salts of these compounds, and one or a plurality of surfactants of group (iv) of the alkylbetaines, alkylamidoalkylbetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, sulfobetaines and / or imidazolinium betaines and / or the salts of these compounds.
8. Pflegeemulsion nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 7, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass als Öl- oder Fettkomponente eine Kombination aus Dicaprylylether, Ethylhexylpalmitat und C12-C15- Alkylbenzoat enthalten ist.8. care emulsion according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the oil or fat component is a combination of dicaprylyl ether, ethylhexyl palmitate and C 12 -C 15 - alkyl benzoate is included.
9. Pflegeemulsion nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 8, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie zur Erhöhung der Emulsions- und Schaumstabilität eine Kombination aus mindestens zwei Polymeren enthält, von denen eines natürlichen und das andere synthetischen Ursprungs ist.9. care emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it contains to increase the emulsion and foam stability, a combination of at least two polymers, one of which is natural and the other of synthetic origin.
10. Pflegeemulsion nach Anspruch 9, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Polymere synthetischen Ursprungs ausgewählt sind aus Polyacrylsäuren und/oder Polyacryloyldimethyltauraten und die Polymere natürlichen Ursprungs ausgewählt sind aus Xanthan Gum-, Guar Gum-, Alginat- und/oder Carrageenat-Derivaten.10. Care emulsion according to claim 9, characterized in that the polymers of synthetic origin are selected from polyacrylic acids and / or Polyacryloyldimethyltauraten and the polymers of natural origin are selected from xanthan gum, guar gum, alginate and / or carrageenate derivatives.
11. Pflegemulsion nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 10, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie eine Kombination verschiedener Emulsionssysteme umfasst.11. Care emulsion according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it comprises a combination of different emulsion systems.
12. Pflegeemulsion nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 11 , dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens einen weiteren kosmetischen Hilfs- oder Wirkstoff enthält, der ausgewählt ist aus der Gruppe der Sonnenschutzmittel, Feuchthaltemittel, Antioxidantien, Hyaluronsäure sowie deren physiologisch verträglichen Salzen und Derivaten, Wirkstoffen zur Stimulierung der Kollagensynthese, Wirkstoffen zur Erhöhung bzw. Verbesserung der Interaktion zwischen der extrazellulären Matrix und den Fibroblasten sowie Wirkstoffen zur Förderung der Elastinproduktion.12. Care emulsion according to one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it contains at least one further cosmetic auxiliary or active substance which is selected from the group of sunscreens, humectants, antioxidants, hyaluronic acid and their physiologically acceptable salts and derivatives, active ingredients Stimulation of collagen synthesis, drugs to increase or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts and drugs to promote elastin production.
13. Pflegeemulsion nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 12, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie einen pH-Wert im Bereich von 3,5 bis 7,5, bevorzugt von 4 bis 7 und insbesondere von 4,5 bis 6,5 aufweist.13. Care emulsion according to one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it has a pH in the range of 3.5 to 7.5, preferably from 4 to 7 and in particular from 4.5 to 6.5.
14. Verwendung einer Mischung aus einer Emulgatorkombination (A), enthaltend zwei W/O- Emulgatoren gleichen HLB-Werts, die ausgewählt sind aus14. Use of a mixture of an emulsifier combination (A) containing two W / O emulsifiers same HLB value, which are selected from
(i) mindestens einem Poly(12-hydroxystearinsäure)polyglycerinester und(i) at least one poly (12-hydroxystearic acid) polyglycerol ester and
(ii) mindestens einem Silikonemulgator, einer Tensidkombination (B), enthaltend(ii) at least one silicone emulsifier containing a surfactant combination (B)
(iii) mindestens ein anionisches Tensid und(iii) at least one anionic surfactant and
(iv) mindestens ein amphoteres und/oder zwitterionisches Tensid, und(iv) at least one amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactant, and
1 - 25 Gew.-% mindestens einer Öl- oder Fettkomponente, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Pflegeemulsion, zur Herstellung kosmetischer Pflegeemulsionen, die unter Verwendung eines manuellen Pumpspenders aufschäumbar sind und eine leichte Textur sowie eine bessere Verteilbarkeit aufweisen.1 - 25 wt .-% of at least one oil or fat component, based on the total weight of the care emulsion, for the preparation of cosmetic care emulsions which are foamable using a manual pump dispenser and have a light texture and a better dispersibility.
15. Verwendung einer Pflegeemulsion nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 13 zur Verbesserung des Hautgefühls. 15. Use of a care emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 13 for improving the feel of the skin.
EP09763918.1A 2008-11-27 2009-11-24 Foaming emulsions Not-in-force EP2349182B1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE200810059441 DE102008059441A1 (en) 2008-11-27 2008-11-27 Foaming emulsions
PCT/EP2009/065704 WO2010060894A2 (en) 2008-11-27 2009-11-24 Foaming emulsions

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP2349182A2 true EP2349182A2 (en) 2011-08-03
EP2349182B1 EP2349182B1 (en) 2017-01-04

Family

ID=42134015

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP09763918.1A Not-in-force EP2349182B1 (en) 2008-11-27 2009-11-24 Foaming emulsions

Country Status (3)

Country Link
EP (1) EP2349182B1 (en)
DE (1) DE102008059441A1 (en)
WO (1) WO2010060894A2 (en)

Family Cites Families (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE10217474A1 (en) 2002-04-19 2003-11-06 Cognis Deutschland Gmbh Sun protection emulsion with foam dispenser
CN100519725C (en) 2003-02-28 2009-07-29 宝洁公司 Foam-generating kit containing a foam-generating dispenser and a composition containing a high level of surfactant
US20080014166A1 (en) * 2006-07-14 2008-01-17 Clariant International, Ltd. Cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions comprising modified polyorganosiloxanes

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
See references of WO2010060894A3 *

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
EP2349182B1 (en) 2017-01-04
WO2010060894A2 (en) 2010-06-03
WO2010060894A3 (en) 2012-10-11
DE102008059441A1 (en) 2010-06-02

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
EP2349181A1 (en) Foaming emulsions comprising a combination of emulsifiers
EP2091502B1 (en) O/w emulsion
EP1671673B1 (en) Pigments containing water-in-siliconoil-emulsion for improving the appearance of the skin
EP1852102B1 (en) Method for manufacturing oil in water emulsions for roll-on applications
DE102006060439A1 (en) Cosmetic or dermatological composition for treating e.g. cellulite contains hyperemisating active ingredients and active ingredients for reducing the degranulation of mast cells and/or for releasing histamine
WO2006018198A1 (en) Cosmetic and dermatological compositions comprising (2-hydroxyethyl)urea
EP2005941A2 (en) Cellular rejuvenation compounds
EP1994923A2 (en) Cosmetic and dermatological compositions for dry skin
EP1938784B1 (en) Pre-treatment agent for protecting the scalp
DE102008054118A1 (en) Active ingredient combination for the treatment of mature skin I
EP2011476A2 (en) Moisture-emitting cosmetic and dermatological compounds with enhancers
DE102008054117A1 (en) Combination of active ingredients for the treatment of mature skin II
EP1938785A2 (en) Cosmetic and dermatological oil-in-water emulsions with self-preserving attributes
EP1913929A2 (en) Eudermic W/O emulsions
WO2006042625A2 (en) Compositions with inhibitors of the synthesis of prostaglandin and/or of leukotriene in conjunction with stimulators of the release of cutaneous neuromediators
DE102006062566A1 (en) Cosmetic or dermatological topical composition, useful to treat the blemished skin and/or acne, comprises an alpha-monoalkyl glycerin ether and an active agent comprising octanediol or hexanediol in a carrier
DE102008061340A1 (en) Antioxidant compositions
EP2633887B1 (en) Novel agent combination for efficient anti-wrinkle effect
EP1661601A2 (en) Oil in water emulsions
EP2223679A2 (en) Cellular rejuvenation compounds
EP1913932A2 (en) Eudermic W/O emulsion
EP2349182B1 (en) Foaming emulsions
EP1913930A2 (en) Eudermic W/O emulsions
DE102015221568A1 (en) Cosmetic foam of an emulsion containing glycerol and alcohol
WO2010060895A2 (en) Foaming emulsions containing polymers

Legal Events

Date Code Title Description
PUAI Public reference made under article 153(3) epc to a published international application that has entered the european phase

Free format text: ORIGINAL CODE: 0009012

17P Request for examination filed

Effective date: 20110523

AK Designated contracting states

Kind code of ref document: A2

Designated state(s): AT BE BG CH CY CZ DE DK EE ES FI FR GB GR HR HU IE IS IT LI LT LU LV MC MK MT NL NO PL PT RO SE SI SK SM TR

DAX Request for extension of the european patent (deleted)
R17D Deferred search report published (corrected)

Effective date: 20121011

GRAP Despatch of communication of intention to grant a patent

Free format text: ORIGINAL CODE: EPIDOSNIGR1

INTG Intention to grant announced

Effective date: 20160511

GRAS Grant fee paid

Free format text: ORIGINAL CODE: EPIDOSNIGR3

GRAA (expected) grant

Free format text: ORIGINAL CODE: 0009210

AK Designated contracting states

Kind code of ref document: B1

Designated state(s): AT BE BG CH CY CZ DE DK EE ES FI FR GB GR HR HU IE IS IT LI LT LU LV MC MK MT NL NO PL PT RO SE SI SK SM TR

REG Reference to a national code

Ref country code: GB

Ref legal event code: FG4D

Free format text: NOT ENGLISH

REG Reference to a national code

Ref country code: CH

Ref legal event code: EP

REG Reference to a national code

Ref country code: AT

Ref legal event code: REF

Ref document number: 858539

Country of ref document: AT

Kind code of ref document: T

Effective date: 20170115

REG Reference to a national code

Ref country code: IE

Ref legal event code: FG4D

Free format text: LANGUAGE OF EP DOCUMENT: GERMAN

REG Reference to a national code

Ref country code: DE

Ref legal event code: R096

Ref document number: 502009013548

Country of ref document: DE

REG Reference to a national code

Ref country code: LT

Ref legal event code: MG4D

Ref country code: NL

Ref legal event code: MP

Effective date: 20170104

PG25 Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo]

Ref country code: NL

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT

Effective date: 20170104

PG25 Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo]

Ref country code: GR

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT

Effective date: 20170405

Ref country code: IS

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT

Effective date: 20170504

Ref country code: FI

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT

Effective date: 20170104

Ref country code: NO

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT

Effective date: 20170404

Ref country code: LT

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT

Effective date: 20170104

Ref country code: HR

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT

Effective date: 20170104

PG25 Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo]

Ref country code: SE

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT

Effective date: 20170104

Ref country code: BG

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT

Effective date: 20170404

Ref country code: LV

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT

Effective date: 20170104

Ref country code: ES

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT

Effective date: 20170104

Ref country code: PT

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT

Effective date: 20170504

Ref country code: PL

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT

Effective date: 20170104

REG Reference to a national code

Ref country code: DE

Ref legal event code: R097

Ref document number: 502009013548

Country of ref document: DE

PG25 Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo]

Ref country code: CZ

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT

Effective date: 20170104

Ref country code: SK

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT

Effective date: 20170104

Ref country code: IT

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT

Effective date: 20170104

Ref country code: RO

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT

Effective date: 20170104

Ref country code: EE

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT

Effective date: 20170104

PLBE No opposition filed within time limit

Free format text: ORIGINAL CODE: 0009261

STAA Information on the status of an ep patent application or granted ep patent

Free format text: STATUS: NO OPPOSITION FILED WITHIN TIME LIMIT

REG Reference to a national code

Ref country code: FR

Ref legal event code: PLFP

Year of fee payment: 9

REG Reference to a national code

Ref country code: DE

Ref legal event code: R084

Ref document number: 502009013548

Country of ref document: DE

PG25 Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo]

Ref country code: DK

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT

Effective date: 20170104

Ref country code: SM

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT

Effective date: 20170104

26N No opposition filed

Effective date: 20171005

PG25 Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo]

Ref country code: SI

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT

Effective date: 20170104

PG25 Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo]

Ref country code: MC

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT

Effective date: 20170104

PG25 Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo]

Ref country code: LI

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF NON-PAYMENT OF DUE FEES

Effective date: 20171130

Ref country code: CH

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF NON-PAYMENT OF DUE FEES

Effective date: 20171130

PG25 Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo]

Ref country code: LU

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF NON-PAYMENT OF DUE FEES

Effective date: 20171124

REG Reference to a national code

Ref country code: BE

Ref legal event code: MM

Effective date: 20171130

REG Reference to a national code

Ref country code: IE

Ref legal event code: MM4A

PG25 Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo]

Ref country code: MT

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT

Effective date: 20170104

PG25 Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo]

Ref country code: IE

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF NON-PAYMENT OF DUE FEES

Effective date: 20171124

PG25 Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo]

Ref country code: BE

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF NON-PAYMENT OF DUE FEES

Effective date: 20171130

REG Reference to a national code

Ref country code: AT

Ref legal event code: MM01

Ref document number: 858539

Country of ref document: AT

Kind code of ref document: T

Effective date: 20171124

PG25 Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo]

Ref country code: AT

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF NON-PAYMENT OF DUE FEES

Effective date: 20171124

PG25 Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo]

Ref country code: HU

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT; INVALID AB INITIO

Effective date: 20091124

PG25 Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo]

Ref country code: CY

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF NON-PAYMENT OF DUE FEES

Effective date: 20170104

PG25 Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo]

Ref country code: MK

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT

Effective date: 20170104

PG25 Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo]

Ref country code: TR

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT

Effective date: 20170104

PGFP Annual fee paid to national office [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo]

Ref country code: GB

Payment date: 20211119

Year of fee payment: 13

Ref country code: FR

Payment date: 20211122

Year of fee payment: 13

Ref country code: DE

Payment date: 20211118

Year of fee payment: 13

REG Reference to a national code

Ref country code: DE

Ref legal event code: R119

Ref document number: 502009013548

Country of ref document: DE

GBPC Gb: european patent ceased through non-payment of renewal fee

Effective date: 20221124

PG25 Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo]

Ref country code: GB

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF NON-PAYMENT OF DUE FEES

Effective date: 20221124

Ref country code: DE

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF NON-PAYMENT OF DUE FEES

Effective date: 20230601

PG25 Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo]

Ref country code: FR

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF NON-PAYMENT OF DUE FEES

Effective date: 20221130