EP2323619A2

EP2323619A2 - Agent for fibres containing keratin, containing at least one specific amphiphilic cationic polymer and at least one additional film-forming cationic and/or stabilizing polymer

Info

Publication number: EP2323619A2
Application number: EP09780871A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Burkhard Müller; Pamela Kaftan
Original assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Current assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date: 2008-08-18
Filing date: 2009-07-21
Publication date: 2011-05-25
Also published as: US20110135591A1; US20130295034A1; US8506941B2; WO2010020500A2; WO2010020500A3; US9034307B2

Abstract

The invention relates to an agent for treating fibres containing keratin, in particular human hair, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier: (a) at least one amphiphilic, cationic polymer having at least one structural unit of formulae (I) to (IV), wherein; R1 and R4 independently represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, X1 and X2 independently represent an oxygen atom or an NH group, A1 and A2 independently represent an ethane-1,2-diyl, propane-1,3-diyl or butane-1,4-diyl group, R2, R3, R5 and R6 independently represent a (C1 to C4)-alkyl group, R7 represents a (C8 to C30)-alkyl group and; (b) at least one film-forming cationic and/or stabilizing cationic polymer. The invention also relates to the use of agents for temporarily styling hair and for haircare, in particular as an aerosol hairspray or aerosol hair mousse.

Description

"Agent for keratin-containing fibers containing at least one particular amphiphilic cationic polymer and at least one additional additional film-forming cationic and / or setting polymer"

The present invention relates to hair treatment compositions containing a combination of at least one specific amphiphilic cationic polymer with at least one film-forming cationic and / or setting polymer, the use of these agents for the temporary shaping and / or care of keratin-containing fibers and aerosol hair sprays / foams based on this means.

In principle, all animal hair, e.g. Wool, horsehair, angora hair, furs, feathers and products or textiles made from them. Preferably, however, the keratinic fibers are human hairs.

An attractive-looking hairstyle is now generally considered an indispensable part of a well-groomed appearance. Due to current fashion trends, hairstyles are always considered to be chic, which in many hair types can only be built up using firming agents or can be maintained for a longer period of time up to several days. Therefore, hair treatment agents that serve a permanent or temporary shaping of the hair play an important role. Temporary shapes that should give a good hold, without affecting the healthy appearance of the hair, such as their gloss, can be achieved for example by hair sprays, hair waxes, hair gels, hair mousses, hair drier, etc.

Corresponding temporary shaping agents usually contain synthetic polymers as the shaping component. Preparations containing a dissolved or dispersed polymer can be applied to the hair by means of propellant gases or by a pumping mechanism. In particular, however, hair gels and hair waxes are generally not applied directly to the hair, but distributed by means of a comb or hands in the hair.

The most important property of a composition for the temporary deformation of keratinic fibers, also referred to below as styling agent, is to give the treated fibers in the produced form the strongest possible hold. If the keratin fibers are human hair, it is also referred to as a strong hairstyle or the high degree of retention of the styling agent. The hairstyle hold is essentially determined by the type and amount of the synthetic polymer used, but also an influence of the other constituents of the styling agent may be given. In addition to a high degree of hold, styling agents must meet a whole range of other requirements. These may be broadly subdivided into properties on the hair, properties of the particular formulation, eg properties of the foam, of the gel or of the sprayed aerosol, and of properties which affect the handling of the styling agent, whereby the properties on the hair are of particular importance. Particularly noteworthy are moisture resistance, low tackiness and a balanced conditioning effect. Furthermore, a styling agent should be universally applicable as possible for all hair types.

In order to meet the different requirements, a large number of synthetic polymers has already been developed, which are used in styling agents. The polymers can be subdivided into cationic, anionic, nonionic and amphoteric film-forming and / or setting polymers. Ideally, when applied to hair, the polymers give a polymer film which, on the one hand, gives the hairstyle strong hold but, on the other hand, is sufficiently flexible not to break under stress. If the polymer film is too brittle, it results in the formation of so-called Filmpiaken, that is residues that detach during the movement of the hair and give the impression that the user of the corresponding styling agent would dandruff.

Developing styling agents that have all the desired properties in combination is still difficult. In particular, this applies to the combination of strong hold on the one hand and simple, uniform application to the keratinous fibers on the other.

Object of the present invention was therefore to provide a means for temporary deformation and / or care keratinic fibers available, which is characterized by a high degree of hold or by a high care effect and in particular excellent handling during application to the keratin fibers has.

It has now surprisingly been found that this can be achieved by a combination of special polymers. Furthermore, in the context of specific embodiments of the invention, in addition to these outstanding properties, it has been possible to provide compositions without turbidity. The absence of turbidity is of particular importance in the context of the provision of aerosol compositions, since solid suspended particles can lead to a blockage of the outlet nozzle of the aerosol packaging. In general, there is the additional risk of sedimentation in turbid and low-viscosity compositions, which has an adverse effect on the storage stability of the composition. A first subject of the present invention is therefore an agent for treating keratin-containing fibers, especially human hair, contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

(a) at least one amphiphilic cationic polymer comprising at least one

Structural unit of the formula (I), at least one structural unit of the formula (II), at least one structural unit of the formula (III) and at least one structural unit of the formula (IV)

wherein

R ¹ and R ⁴ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, X ¹ and X ² independently of one another represent an oxygen atom or a group NH, A ¹ and A ² independently of one another represent a group of ethane-1,2-diyl, Propane-1, 3-diyl or butane-1, 4-diyl,

R ² , R ³ , R ⁵ and R ⁶ independently of one another are a (C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkyl group, R ⁷ is a (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) -alkyl group and

(b) at least one additional film-forming cationic and / or setting cationic polymer.

Film-forming polymers are polymers which leave a continuous film on the skin, the hair or the nails when drying. Such film formers can be used in a wide variety of cosmetic products, such as for example face masks, make-up, hair fixatives, hair sprays, hair gels, hair waxes, hair treatments, shampoos or nail varnishes. Particular preference is given to polymers which have a sufficient solubility in water or water / alcohol mixtures in order to be present in completely completely dissolved form in the agent according to the invention. The film-forming polymers may be of synthetic or natural origin.

According to the invention, film-forming polymers are understood as meaning polymers which, when used in 0.01 to 20% strength by weight aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution, are capable of depositing a transparent polymer film on the hair. Firming polymers contribute to the maintenance and / or build-up of the hair volume and hair fullness of the overall hairstyle. These polymers are at the same time also film-forming polymers and therefore generally typical substances for shaping hair treatment agents such as hair fixatives, hair foams, hair waxes, hair sprays. The film formation can be quite selective and connect only a few fibers.

As a test method for the firming effect of a polymer, the so-called curl retention test or the three-point bending test are often used.

According to the above formulas and all following formulas, a chemical bond marked with the symbol * stands for a free valency of the corresponding structural fragment.

To compensate for the positive polymer charge in the composition of the invention are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.

Examples of (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl groups according to the invention are methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl.

Examples of (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) -alkyl groups according to the invention are octyl (capryl), decyl (caprinyl), dodecyl (lauryl), tetradecyl (myristyl), hexadecyl (cetyl), octadecyl (stearyl), eicosyl (arachyl), docosyl ( behenyl).

The amphiphilic, cationic polymers according to the invention preferably have a molecular weight of from 10,000 g / mol to 50,000,000 g / mol, in particular from 50,000 g / mol to 5,000,000 g / mol, more preferably from 75,000 g / mol to 1,000,000 g / mol.

Preferred agents according to the invention comprise the amphiphilic, cationic polymers (a) in an amount of from 0.1% by weight to 20.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.2% by weight to 10.0% by weight .-%, most preferably from 0.5 to 5.0 wt.%, Each based on the weight of the composition.

The properties of the agent according to the invention prove to be particularly advantageous when it is formulated as an aerosol spray, aerosol foam, pump spray or pump foam. This preferred form of packaging will be described later in detail. The following amphiphilic, cationic polymers (a) are preferably used according to the invention in the compositions according to the invention when these amphiphilic, cationic polymers (a) fulfill one or more of the following characteristics with respect to the abovementioned formulas (I) to (IV):

R ¹ and R ⁴ each represent a methyl group,

X ¹ stands for a group NH,

X ² stands for a group NH,

A ¹ and A ² are each independently ethane-1, 2-diyl or propane-1, 3-diyl,

R ² , R ³ , R ⁵ and R ⁶ independently of one another represent methyl or ethyl, (particularly preferably methyl),

R ⁷ is a (Ci ₀ to C ₂₄ ) alkyl group, in particular decyl (caprinyl), dodecyl

(Lauryl), tetradecyl (myristyl), hexadecyl (cetyl), octadecyl (stearyl), eicosyl (arachyl) or docosyl (behenyl).

It is preferred according to the invention to select the structural unit of the formula (III) from at least one structural unit of the formula (III-1) to (III-S)

(LM-4)

||| _5) (||| -8).

In addition, it proves to be particularly preferred to choose as a structural unit of the formula (III) the structural unit of the formula (III-7) and / or the formula (III-8). The structural unit of the formula (III-8) is according to the invention a very particularly preferred structural unit.

Furthermore, in view of achieving the object, it has been found preferable, when the structural unit of the formula (IV) is selected, to consist of at least one structural unit of the formulas (IV-1) to (IV-8) (VI-4)

(VI-8), wherein each R ⁷ is a (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) alkyl group.

In turn, particularly preferred structural unit of the formula (IV) are the structural units of the formula (IV-7) and / or the formula (IV-8), wherein in each case R ⁷ is octyl (capryl), decyl (caprinyl), dodecyl (lauryl ), Tetradecyl (myristyl), hexadecyl (cetyl), octadecyl (stearyl), eicosyl (arachyl) or docosyl (behenyl). The structural unit of the formula (IV-8) represents according to the invention a very particularly preferred structural unit of the formula (IV).

An amphiphilic, cationic polymer which is very particularly preferably contained in the agent according to the invention comprises at least one structural unit of the formula (I), at least one structural unit of the formula (II), at least one structural unit of the formula (III-8) and at least one structural unit of the formula (IV -8th),

wherein R ⁷ is octyl (capryl), decyl (caprinyl), dodecyl (lauryl), tetradecyl (myristyl), hexadecyl (cetyl), octadecyl (stearyl), eicosyl (arachyl) or docosyl (behenyl). A very particularly preferred amphiphilic, cationic polymer according to the invention is the copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-vinylcaprolactam, N- (3-dimethylaminopropyl) methacrylannide and 3- (methacryloylamino) propyl-lauryl-dinethylammonium chloride (INCI name:

Polyquaternium-69), which is marketed for example under the trade name Aqua Style ^® 300 (28-32 wt .-% of active substance in ethanol-water mixture, molecular weight 350,000) by the company ISP.

In addition, the composition according to the invention necessarily contains at least one film-forming cationic and / or setting cationic polymer. These polymers are different from the amphiphilic cationic polymers (a).

In this case, it is again preferred according to the invention if the agent contains at least two additional film-forming cationic and / or setting cationic polymers as component (b). These two additional cationogenic and / or strengthening cationic polymers are different from one another and from the amphiphilic cationic polymers (a).

The additional film-forming cationic and / or setting cationic polymers preferably have at least one structural unit which contains at least one permanently cationized nitrogen atom.

Permanently cationized nitrogen atoms are to be understood as meaning those nitrogen atoms which carry a positive charge and thereby form a quaternary ammonium compound. Quaternary ammonium compounds are most commonly prepared by reacting tertiary amines with alkylating agents, e.g. Methyl chloride, benzyl chloride, dimethyl sulfate, dodecyl bromide, but also produced ethylene oxide. Depending on the tertiary amine used, the following groups are known in particular: alkylammonium compounds, alkenylammonium compounds, imidazolinium compounds and pyridinium compounds.

Preferred agents according to the invention comprise the film-forming cationic and / or setting cationic polymers (b) in an amount of from 0.1% by weight to 20.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.2% by weight to 10.0 wt .-%, most preferably from 0.5 wt .-% to 5.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition.

The cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing polymers can be selected according to the invention from cationic, quaternized cellulose derivatives.

Agents corresponding to this embodiment form opacified compositions. The haze is visible to the naked eye. In addition, the means of this Embodiment, in addition, the advantageous parameters with regard to the strong degree of hairstyle or the volume or hair care.

In the context of this embodiment, those agents are suitable, which contain in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

(a) at least one amphiphilic cationic polymer comprising at least one

Structural unit of the formula (I), at least one structural unit of the formula (II), at least one structural unit of the formula (III) and at least one structural unit of the formula (IV),

wherein

R ¹ and R ⁴ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

X ¹ and X ² independently of one another represent an oxygen atom or a group NH,

A ¹ and A ² independently of one another are a group of ethane-1, 2-diyl, propane-1, 3-diyl or butane-1, 4-diyl,

R ² , R ³ , R ⁵ and R ⁶ independently of one another represent a (C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkyl group,

R ⁷ is a (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) alkyl group and (b) at least one additional film-forming cationic and / or strengthening cationic

Polymer selected from the group of cationic, quaternized cellulose derivatives.

In turn, in particular those agents are considered suitable in the context of this embodiment, which contain in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

(a) at least one amphiphilic cationic polymer comprising at least one

Structural unit of the formula (I), at least one structural unit of the formula (II), at least one structural unit of the formula (III-8) and at least one structural unit of the formula (IV-8), wherein R ⁷ is octyl (capryl), decyl (caprinyl), dodecyl (lauryl), tetradecyl (myristyl), hexadecyl (cetyl), octadecyl (stearyl), eicosyl (arachyl) or docosyl (behenyl), and

(B) at least one additional film-forming cationic and / or setting cationic polymer selected from the group of cationic, quaternized cellulose derivatives.

In general, such cationic, quaternized celluloses prove to be advantageous in the sense of the invention, which carry more than one permanent cationic charge in a side chain.

Of these, among the cationic cellulose derivatives are those which are prepared from the reaction of hydroxyethylcellulose with a dimethyldiallylammonium reactant (in particular dimethyldiallylammonium chloride), if appropriate in the presence of further reactants. Among these cationic celluloses such cationic celluloses with the INCI name Polyquaternium-4 in turn, are particularly suitable, which are sold for example under the names of Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat L 200 ^® by the company National Starch.

Therefore, within the scope of this embodiment, agents according to the invention which are present in a cosmetically acceptable carrier are suitable

(a) at least one amphiphilic cationic polymer comprising at least one

Structural unit of the formula (I), at least one structural unit of the formula (II), at least one structural unit of the formula (III-8) and at least one structural unit of the formula (IV-8) wherein R ⁷ is octyl (capryl), decyl (caprinyl), dodecyl (lauryl), tetradecyl (myristyl), hexadecyl (cetyl), octadecyl (stearyl), eicosyl (arachyl) or docosyl (behenyl), and

(B) at least one additional film-forming cationic and / or setting cationic polymer selected from cationic, quaternized cellulose derivatives, which are prepared by reaction of hydroxyethyl cellulose with a dimethyldiallylammonium reactants (in particular dimethyldiallylammonium chloride) - optionally in the presence of other reactants.

It is again particularly preferred for the aforementioned preferred embodiments if the composition according to the invention contains at least one further film-forming cationic and / or setting cationic polymer which is different from the polymers defined under (a) and (b).

In the context of these abovementioned embodiments, the abovementioned preferred embodiments of the amphiphilic, cationic polymer (a) are suitable (vide supra). Similarly, all of the above-mentioned preferred quantities with respect to the polymer components (a) and (b) of the agent according to the invention are also suitable mutatis mutandis for these embodiments as well.

Also suitable are those cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing polymers which comprise at least one structural unit of the formula (I) and at least one structural unit of the formula (V) and at least one structural unit of the formula (VI) wherein

A ¹ and A ² are each independently a group of ethane-1, 2-diyl, propane-1, 3-diyl or

Butane-1, 4-diyl,

R ² , R ³ , R ⁵ and R ⁶ independently of one another represent a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl group,

R ⁷ is a (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) alkyl group.

To compensate for the positive charge of the monomer (VI) are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate,

Ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-

Toluene sulphonate, triflate.

Suitable compounds are, for example, as

Copolymers of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with diethyl sulfate, vinyl pyrrolidone with the INCI name Polyquaternium-11 755 (both from ISP), and Luviquat under the names Gafquat ^® 440, Gafquat ^® 734, Gafquat ^® PQ 11 PN (BASF SE),

Copolymers of Methacryloylaminopropyllauryldimethylammonium chloride available with vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminopropyl with the INCI name Polyquaternium-55 available under the trade name Styleze W-10 ^®, ^® Styleze W-20 (ISP Company), commercially available.

Agents corresponding to this embodiment form opacified compositions. The turbidity can be seen with the naked eye. In addition, the means of this embodiment additionally have acceptable parameters with regard to the degree of hairstyle hold or volume or hair care.

For the purposes of the present invention, therefore, suitable agents according to the invention are those agents which are contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

(a) at least one amphiphilic cationic polymer comprising at least one

Structural unit of the formula (I), at least one structural unit of the formula (II), at least one structural unit of the formula (III) and at least one structural unit of the formula (IV) wherein

R ⁷ is a (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) alkyl group and

(b) at least one additional film-forming cationic and / or setting cationic polymer which comprises at least one structural unit of the formula (I) and at least one structural unit of the formula (V) and at least one structural unit of the formula (VI)

wherein

R ⁷ is a (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) alkyl group.

In particular, in the context of this embodiment, agents which are present in a cosmetically acceptable carrier are also suitable as being suitable according to the invention

(a) at least one amphiphilic cationic polymer comprising at least one

Structural unit of the formula (I), at least one structural unit of the formula (II), at least one structural unit of the formula (III-8) and at least one structural unit of the formula (IV-8)

wherein R ⁷ is octyl (capryl), decyl (caprinyl), dodecyl (lauryl), tetradecyl (myristyl), hexadecyl (cetyl), octadecyl (stearyl), eicosyl (arachyl) or docosyl (behenyl), and

wherein

R ⁷ is a (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) alkyl group.

To compensate for the positive charge of the monomer (VI), the above applies.

It is again particularly preferred for the aforementioned preferred embodiments if the composition according to the invention contains at least one further film-forming cationic and / or setting cationic polymer which is different from the polymers defined under (a) and (b). In the context of these embodiments, the abovementioned preferred embodiments of the amphiphilic, cationic polymer (a) are preferred (vide supra). Similarly, all of the above-mentioned preferred quantities with respect to the polymer components (a) and (b) of the agent according to the invention are also mutatis mutandis preferred for these embodiments.

In the context of the invention, film-forming and / or setting polymers selected from cationic polymers containing at least one structural unit which have a permanently cationized nitrogen atom are also particularly preferably those cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing copolymers (b) which contain at least one structural element of the formula (M 1)

wherein

R is a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group, and additionally having at least one further cationic and / or nonionic structural element.

Within the meaning of the present invention, those agents which are contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier are therefore considered to be particularly preferred

(a) at least one amphiphilic cationic polymer comprising at least one

wherein

A ¹ and A ² independently of one another are a group of ethane-1, 2-diyl, propane-1, 3-diyl or butane-1, 4-diyl, R ² , R ³ , R ⁵ and R ⁶ independently of one another represent a (C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkyl group,

Polymer containing at least one structural unit with a permanently cationized

Nitrogen atom contains at least one structural element of the formula (M 1)

wherein

R is a (C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group, and additionally has at least one further cationic and / or nonionic structural element.

Means that comply with this embodiment form transparent, i. unclouded compositions. A clouding is not visible to the naked eye. In addition, the means of this embodiment additionally excellently satisfy the advantageous parameters with regard to the strong hairstyle hold or volume or hair care.

To compensate for the positive polymer charge of component (b) are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.

In particular, those agents which are contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier within the scope of this embodiment are particularly preferred

(a) at least one amphiphilic cationic polymer comprising at least one

(B) at least one cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer containing at least one structural element of the formula (M 1)

in which

In particular, the abovementioned polymer with the INCI name Polyquaternium 69 (vide supra) is particularly suitable as the amphiphilic cationic polymer (a).

To compensate for the positive polymer charge of component (b), the above applies.

It is again preferred according to the invention if, in addition to the amphiphilic cationic polymer (a) as the cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer (b) of this embodiment, at least one copolymer (b1) is present in the composition according to the invention, in addition to at least one structural element of the formula (M1) additionally comprises a structural element of the formula (I) _*

wherein

R is a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group.

To compensate for the positive polymer charge of the copolymers (b1) are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.

Very particularly preferred cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing polymers as copolymers (b1) contain 10 to 30 mol%, preferably 15 to 25 mol% and in particular 20 mol% of structural units of the formula (M 1) and 70 to 90 Mol .-%, preferably 75 to 85 mol .-% and in particular 80 mol .-% of structural units according to formula (I).

It is particularly preferred if the copolymers (b1) in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said structural units of the formula (M 1) and (I) in the copolymer, a maximum of 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 1 wt .-% , Contain polymer units due to the incorporation of other monomers. The copolymers (b1) are preferably composed exclusively of structural units of the formula (M 1) where R "= methyl and (I) and can be represented by the general formula (poly)

(PoIyI) describe, wherein the indices m and p vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are block copolymers. Rather, structural units of the formula (M1) and of the formula (I) can be present in the molecule in a statistically distributed manner.

Is to compensate the positive charge of the polymer of formula (PoIyI) used a chloride ion, then these N-methylvinylimidazole / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers are referred to as Polyquaternium-16, according to INCI Nomenclature and are, for example, from BASF under the trade names Luviquat ^® Style , Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 370, Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 550, FC 905 and Luviquat.RTM ^® Luviquat.RTM ^® HM 552 Is to compensate the positive charge of the polymer of formula (PoIyI) a methosulfate ion used, then these N-methylvinylimidazole / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers nomenclature as Polyquaternium-44, according to INCI, and are, for example, from BASF under the trade names Luviquat ^® Ultra Care available.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention comprise a copolymer (b1), in particular of the formula (poly), which has molar masses within a certain range. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred in which the copolymer (b1) has a molecular weight of from 50 to 400 kDa, preferably from 100 to 300 kDa, more preferably from 150 to 250 kDa and in particular from 190 to 210 kDa.

In addition to the copolymer (s) (b1) or at its site, the agents according to the invention may also contain copolymers (b2) which, starting from the copolymer (b1), have structural units of the formula (II) as additional structural units

Further particularly preferred agents according to the invention are thus characterized in that they contain as cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing polymer (b) at least one copolymer (b2) which has at least one structural unit of formula (M1-a) and at least one structural unit of formula ( I) and at least one structural unit according to formula (II)

Here, too, it is particularly preferred if the copolymers (b2) in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said structural units of the formula (M1-a), (I) and (II) in the copolymer, a maximum of 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 1% by weight of polymer units due to incorporation of other monomers. Preferably, the copolymers (b2) are composed exclusively of structural units of the formulas (M1-a), (I) and (II) and can be represented by the general formula (Poly 2) describe, wherein the indices m, n and p vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are block copolymers. Rather, structural units of said formulas can be present in the molecule in a statistically distributed manner.

To compensate for the positive polymer charge of component (b2) are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.

Is to compensate the positive charge of the polymer of formula (Poly2), a methosulfate be used refer to those N-methylvinylimidazole / vinylpyrrolidone / vinylcaprolactam copolymers, according to INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-46 and are for example available under the trade names Luviquat ^® Hold by BASF ,

Very particularly preferred copolymers (b2) contain 1 to 20 mol%, preferably 5 to 15 mol% and in particular 10 mol% of structural units of the formula (M1-a) and 30 to 50 mol%, preferably 35 to 45 mol .-% and in particular 40 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (I) and 40 to 60 mol .-%, preferably 45 to 55 mol .-% and in particular 60 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (II).

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain a copolymer (b2) which has molecular weights within a certain range. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred in which the copolymer (b2) has a molecular weight of 100 to 1000 kDa, preferably of 250 to 900 kDa, more preferably of 500 to 850 kDa and in particular of 650 to 710 kDa.

In addition to the copolymer (s) (b1) and / or (b2) or at its point, the agents according to the invention may also contain copolymers (b3) as film-forming cationic and / or setting cationic polymer (b), which as structural units structural units of the formulas (M1-a) and (I), as well as further structural units from the group of vinylimidazole units and further structural units from the group of the acrylamide and / or methacrylamide units. Further particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer (b) at least one copolymer (b3) which comprises at least one structural unit of formula (M1-a) and at least one structural unit of formula (I ) and at least one structural unit according to formula (VI) and at least one structural unit according to formula (VII)

(VI) "*" ^X ° (V ,,

Here too, it is particularly preferred if the copolymers (b3) in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said structural units of the formula (M1-a), (I), (VI) and (VII) in the copolymer, a maximum of 5 wt. -%, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, contain polymer units, which go back to the incorporation of other monomers. Preferably, the copolymers (b3) are composed exclusively of structural units of the formula (M1-a), (I), (VI) and (VII) and can be represented by the general formula (Poly 3)

describe, wherein the indices m, n, o and p vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are block copolymers. Rather, structural units of the formulas (M1-a), (I), (VI) and (VII) may be present in the molecule in a statistically distributed manner.

Is to compensate the positive charge of the polymer of formula (poly 3) a methosulfate be used refer to those N-MethylvinylimidazolΛ / inylpyrrolidonΛ / inylimidazol / methacrylamide copolymers, according to INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-68 and are, for example, from BASF under the tradename Luviquat ^® Supreme available.

Very particularly preferred copolymers (b3) contain 1 to 12 mol%, preferably 3 to 9 mol% and in particular 6 mol% of structural units of the formula (M1-a) and 45 to 65 mol%, preferably 50 to 60 mol% and in particular 55 mol% of structural units of the formula (I) and 1 to 20 mol%, preferably 5 to 15 mol% and in particular 10 mol% of structural units of the formula (VI ) and 20 to 40 mol .-%, preferably 25 to 35 mol .-% and in particular 29 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (VII).

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain a copolymer (b3) which has molecular weights within a certain range. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred in which the copolymer (b3) has a molecular weight of from 100 to 500 kDa, preferably from 150 to 400 kDa, more preferably from 250 to 350 kDa and in particular from 290 to 310 kDa.

Among the additional film-forming cationic and / or setting polymers selected from the cationic polymers (b) having at least one structural element of the above formula (M 1), the following are preferred:

Vinylpyrrolidone / i-vinyl-S-methyl-I H-imidazolium chloride copolymers (such as for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-16 under the trade names Luviquat ^® Style, Luviquat ^® FC 370, Luviquat ^® FC 550, Luviquat ^® FC 905 and Luviquat ^® HM 552 (BASF SE)), vinyl pyrrolidone / i-vinyl-3-methyl-I H-imidazolium copolymers (such as for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-44 under the trade names Luviquat ^® Care (BASF SE)), vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl caprolactam / i-vinyl-S-methyl-I H-imidazolium terpolymer (such as for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-46 under the trade names Luviquat ^® Care or Luviquat ^® Hold (BASF SE)), vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamide / vinylimidazole / i-vinyl-S-methyl-I H-imidazoliummethylsulfat- copolymer (such as (with the INCI name Polyquaternium-68 under the trade name Luviquat ^® Supreme BASF SE)), as well as mixtures of these polymers.

If the composition according to the invention contains, in addition to the amphiphilic, cationic polymer (a), two cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing polymers (b) which differ from one another, the following embodiments have proved to be particularly suitable:

A most preferred embodiment provides agents contained in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

(a) at least one amphiphilic cationic polymer comprising at least one

R ⁷ is a (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) alkyl group and (bl) at least one cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer containing at least one structural element of the formula (M 1)

in which

R is a (C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group, and additionally has at least one further cationic and / or nonionic structural element, and

(bll) at least one cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (I) and at least one structural unit of the formula (V) and at least one structural unit of the formula (VI)

wherein R ¹ and R ⁴ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

R ⁷ is a (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) alkyl group.

(a) at least one amphiphilic cationic polymer comprising at least one

wherein R ⁷ is octyl (capryl), decyl (caprinyl), dodecyl (lauryl), tetradecyl (myristyl),

Hexadecyl (cetyl), octadecyl (stearyl), eicosyl (arachyl) or docosyl (behenyl), and (bl) at least one cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer comprising at least one structural element of the formula (M1) and at least one structural element of the

Formula (I)

wherein

R is a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group. and

(bll) at least one cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (I) and at least one structural unit of the formula (V) and at least one structural unit of the formula (VI) wherein

R ⁷ is octyl (capryl), decyl (caprinyl), dodecyl (lauryl), tetradecyl (myristyl), hexadecyl (cetyl), octadecyl (stearyl), eicosyl (arachyl) or docosyl (behenyl).

Agents according to the invention are very particularly preferred, containing (polymers defined by the respective INCI name)

(a) Polyquaternium-69 (bl) Polyquaternium-16 (b-ll) Polyquaternium-55

In the context of these embodiments, the abovementioned preferred embodiments of the amphiphilic, cationic polymer (a) are preferred (vide supra). Similarly, all of the above-mentioned preferred quantities with respect to the polymer components (a) and (b1) of the agent according to the invention are also mutatis mutandis preferred for these embodiments.

The preferred embodiments described above can again form the following particularly preferred embodiment, which provides particularly pronounced technical effects for achieving the technical object of the invention.

(a) at least one amphiphilic cationic polymer comprising at least one

(IV) wherein

R ⁷ is a (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) alkyl group and (bl) at least one cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer which is selected from a polymer (b-1) or (b-2) or (b) 3)

(b-1) cationic, quaternized cellulose derivatives

(b-2) polymers comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (I) and at least one structural unit of the formula (V) and at least one structural unit of the formula (VI)

wherein

R ² , R ³ , R ⁵ and R ⁶ independently of one another are a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl group, R ⁷ is a (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) -alkyl group, (b-3) polymers comprising at least a structural element of formula (M1)

in which

R is a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group, and additionally at least one further cationic and / or nonionic structural element (bll) at least one cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer other than (a) and (bl) selected from at least one polymer of the group formed from cationic, quaternized cellulose derivatives

Polymers comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (I) and at least one structural unit of the formula (V) and at least one structural unit of the formula (VI)

wherein

R ¹ and R ⁴ independently represent a hydrogen atom or a

Methyl group,

R ⁷ is a (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) -alkyl group,

Polymers comprising at least one structural element of the formula (M 1)

in which

R is a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group, and additionally at least one further cationic and / or nonionic structural element.

It is preferred according to the invention, the polymers (bl) in an amount of 0.1 wt .-% to 15 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.1 wt .-% to 10 wt .-%, most preferably from 0 , 25 to 5.0 wt.%, In each case based on the weight of the agent in the inventive agent.

It is inventively preferred, the polymers (bll) in an amount of 0.1 wt .-% to 15 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.1 wt .-% to 10 wt .-%, most preferably of 0.25 to 5.0 wt.%, In each case based on the weight of the agent in the agent according to the invention.

The following agents are according to the invention preferably for solving the technical problem, comprising in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

(a) at least one amphiphilic cationic polymer comprising at least one

wherein

R ⁷ is a (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) alkyl group and (bl) at least one cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer selected from at least one cationic, quaternized cellulose derivative and (bll) at least one of (a) and (bll) bl) various cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer selected from at least one polymer of

Group that is formed out

Polymers comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (I) and at least one structural unit of the formula (V) and at least one structural unit of the formula (VI) wherein

R ¹ and R ⁴ independently represent a hydrogen atom or a

Methyl group,

R ⁷ is a (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) -alkyl group,

Polymers comprising at least one structural element of the formula (M 1)

in which

R is a (C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group, and additionally at least one further cationic and / or nonionic structural element.

In turn, such agents are preferably suitable according to the invention, containing in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

(a) at least one amphiphilic cationic polymer comprising at least one

Structural unit of the formula (I), at least one structural unit of the formula (II), at least one structural unit of the formula (III-8) and at least one structural unit of the formula (IV-8),

Hexadecyl (cetyl), octadecyl (stearyl), eicosyl (arachyl) or docosyl (behenyl), and (bl) at least one cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer selected from at least one cationic, quaternized cellulose derivative

(in particular polyquaternium-4) and (bll) at least one cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer other than (a) and (bl), which is selected from at least one polymer of the

Group that is formed out

wherein

R ¹ and R ⁴ independently represent a hydrogen atom or a

Methyl group,

R ⁷ is a (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) alkyl group.

In the context of these embodiments, the abovementioned preferred embodiments of the amphiphilic, cationic polymer (a) are preferred (vide supra).

Very particular preference is given to subsequent, preferred compositions which comprise, in a cosmetic vehicle, at least one of the following polymer combinations (defined by the respective INCI name):

(a) Polyquaternium-69 (bl) Polyquaternium-4 (bll) Polyquaternium-55

(a) Polyquaternium-69 (bl) Polyquaternium-4 (bll) Polyquaternium-16 Similarly, all of the above-mentioned preferred quantities with respect to the polymer components (a) and (bl) and (bll) of the agent according to the invention are also mutatis mutandis preferred for these embodiments.

In addition to the additional film-forming cationic and / or setting polymer selected from cationic polymers which contain at least one structural unit which have a permanently cationized nitrogen atom, the agents according to the invention may contain at least one further film-forming and / or setting polymer which differs from the polymers (US Pat. a) and (b) differs.

In order to intensify the effect according to the invention, the agents according to the invention preferably additionally contain at least one surfactant, nonionic, anionic, cationic, ampholytic surfactants being suitable in principle. The group of ampholytic or amphoteric surfactants includes zwitterionic surfactants and ampholytes. The surfactants according to the invention may already have emulsifying activity.

The additional surfactants are in the inventive composition preferably in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.05 wt .-% to 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the Weight of the agent, included.

It has proved to be particularly preferred if the agents according to the invention additionally comprise at least one nonionic surfactant.

Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group e.g. a polyol group, one

Polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and Polyglykolethergruppe.

Such compounds are, for example

Addition products of 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 1 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group , end-capped adducts of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 1 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear or branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, with fatty acids containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, with a methyl or C ₂ -C ₆ -alkyl radical. atoms and onto alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as those available under the trade names Dehydol ^® LS, Dehydol ^® LT types (Cognis), C ₂ -C ₃ o-fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 up to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol,

Addition products of 5 to 60 mol ethylene oxide onto castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, polyol fatty acid esters, such as the commercially available product ^® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol - types (Cognis), alkoxylated triglycerides, alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula (E4-I)

R ¹ CO- (OCH ₂ CHR ² ) _W OR ³ (E4-I) in the R ¹ CO for a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen or methyl, R ³ is linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w is numbers from 1 to 20,

Amine oxides,

Hydroxymix ethers, as described for example in DE-OS 19738866,

Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates,

Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters,

Addition products of ethylene oxide to fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,

Sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type of formula (E4-II), in the R ^{4 is} an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a

Sugar residue with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p stands for numbers from 1 to 10. They can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry.

The alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose. The preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The index number p in the general formula (E4-II) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), d. H. The distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides and stands for a number between 1 and 10. While p in the single molecule must always be integer and can take here especially the values p = 1 to 6, the value p for a particular alkyloligoglycoside is a analytically determined arithmetic size, which usually represents a fractional number. Preference is given to using alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides having an average degree of oligomerization p of from 1.1 to 3.0. From an application point of view, those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4 are preferred.

The alkylene oxide addition products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids with in each case 2 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid have proven to be very particularly preferred nonionic surfactants. Preparations with excellent properties are also obtained when they contain as nonionic surfactants C ₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol and / or addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil , In the case of the surfactants which are adducts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, both products with a "normal" homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used. By "normal" homolog distribution are meant mixtures of homologs obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. Narrowed homolog distributions are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alkoxides are used as catalysts. The use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.

The agents according to the invention as surfactant very particularly preferably contain at least one addition product of from 15 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, in particular from 15 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide, to a linear or branched (in particular linear) fatty alcohol having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms. These are very particularly preferably ceteareth-15, ceteareth-25 or ceteareth-50, which are marketed as Eumulgin ^® CS 15 (Cognis), Cremophor A25 (BASF SE) or Eumulgin ^® CS 50 (Cognis).

Suitable anionic surfactants are in principle all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group, linear and branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms (Soap),

Ethercarbonsäuren the formula RO- (CH2 "CH2θ) _χ -CH2-COOH, in which R is a linear

Alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,

Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- and -dialkylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and

Sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,

Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,

Mixtures of hydroxysulfonate surfactants, sulfated hydroxyalkyl polyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene glycol ethers,

Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds,

Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols containing adducts of about 2-

15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms,

Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula (E1-I),

OR ¹ (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n - O - P --OR ² (E1 - I)

OX in the R ^{1 is} preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ¹ or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , where R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C 1 to C 4 hydrocarbon radical, is a sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol ester of the formula (E1-II) R ⁷ CO (AlkO) _n SO ₃ M (E1-II) in the R ⁷ CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 C atoms, Alk for CH ₂ CH ₂ , CHCH ₃ CH ₂ and / or CH ₂ CHCH ₃ , n is from 0.5 to 5 and M is a cation as described in DE-OS 197 36 906,

Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula (E1-III) CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _x - COR ⁸

CHO (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _y H CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _Z - SO ₃ X in the R ⁸ CO for a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z in total for 0 or for numbers from 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X is an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts. Preferably, monoglyceride sulfates of the formula (E1-III) are used in which R ⁸ CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, amide ether carboxylic acids,

Condensation products of C ₈ - C ₃₀ - fatty alcohols with protein hydrolysates and / or amino acids and their derivatives, which are known to the skilled person as protein fatty acid condensates, such as Lamepon ^® - types Gluadin ^® - types Hostapon ^® KCG or Amisoft ^® - types.

Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, Monoglycerdisulfate, alkyl and Alkenyletherphosphate and Eiweissfettsäurekondensate.

Also usable according to the invention are cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats and the amidoamines. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides. The long alkyl chains of these surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms, such as. In cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride and tricetylmethyl ammonium chloride. Further preferred cationic surfactants are the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83.

Zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds which carry in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ⁽⁾ or -SO ₃ ⁽⁾ group. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammoniumglycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammoniumglycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Ampholytes are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C ₈ -C ₂₄ -alkyl or -acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytes are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytes are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acylsarcosine.

The compositions according to the invention contain the ingredients or active substances in a cosmetically acceptable carrier.

Preferred cosmetically acceptable carriers are aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic media with preferably at least 10% by weight of water, based on the total agent. As alcohols, it is possible in particular to include the lower alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms usually used for cosmetic purposes, such as, for example, ethanol and isopropanol. According to the invention, it is preferred to use at least one (C ₁ to C ₄ ) monoalkyl alcohol in the agents according to the invention, in particular in an amount of from 1 to 50% by weight, in particular from 5 to 30% by weight. This is in turn preferred in particular for the packaging as pump foam or aerosol foam.

As additional co-solvents, organic solvents or a mixture of solvents with a boiling point below 400 ⁰ C in an amount of 0.1 to 15 weight percent, preferably from 1 to 10 weight percent be present on the total composition. Particularly suitable as additional co-solvents are unbranched or branched hydrocarbons such as pentane, hexane, isopentane and cyclic hydrocarbons such as cyclopentane and cyclohexane. Further, particularly preferred water-soluble solvents are glycerol, ethylene glycol and propylene glycol in an amount of up to 30% by weight, based on the total agent.

In particular, the addition of glycerol and / or propylene glycol and / or polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol increases the flexibility of the polymer film formed when the agent according to the invention is used. Thus, if a flexible hold is desired, the compositions according to the invention preferably contain from 0.01 to 30% by weight of glycerol and / or propylene glycol and / or polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol, based on the total agent.

The agents preferably have a pH of 2 to 11. The pH range between 2 and 8 is particularly preferred. The pH value in the context of this document refers to the pH at 25 ^° C., unless stated otherwise.

The compositions of the invention may further contain the auxiliaries and additives which are usually added to conventional styling.

As suitable auxiliaries and additives in particular additional care substances are mentioned.

As a care material, for example, a silicone oil and / or a silicone gum can be used. Silicone oils or silicone gums which are suitable according to the invention are in particular dialkyl and alkylaryl siloxanes, for example dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, and also their alkoxylated, quaternized or else anionic derivatives. Preference is given to cyclic and linear polydialkylsiloxanes, their alkoxylated and / or aminated derivatives, dihydroxypoly-dimethylsiloxanes and polyphenylalkylsiloxanes.

Silicone oils cause a wide variety of effects. For example, at the same time they influence the dry and wet combability, the grip of dry and wet hair and the shine. The term silicone oils is understood by the person skilled in the art as meaning several structures of silicon-organic compounds. Initially, this is understood to mean the dimethiconols. Examples of such products include the following commercial products: Botanisil NU-150M (Botanigenics), Dow Coming 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9026 Fluid, Ultrapure Dimethiconol (Ultra Chemical), Unisil SF- R (Universal Preserve), X-21-5619 (Shin-Etsu Chemical Co.), Abil OSW 5 (Degussa Care Speciales), ACC DL-9430 Emulsion (Taylor Chemical Company), AEC Dimethiconol & Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonate (A & E Connock (Perfumery & Cosmetics) Ltd.), BC Dimethiconol Emulsion 95 (Basildon Chemical Company, Ltd.), Cosmetic Fluid 1401, Cosmetic Fluid 1403, Cosmetic Fluid 1501, Cosmetic Fluid 1401 DC (all aforementioned Chemsil Silicones, Inc.), Dow Corning 1401 Fluid, Dow Corning 1403 Fluid, Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 HVF Emulsion, Dow Corning 9546 Silicone Elastomer Blend (all aforementioned Dow Corning Corporation), Dub Gel Sl 1400 (Stearinerie Dubois FiIs), HVM 4852 Emulsion (Crompton Corporation), Jeesilc 6056 (Jeen International Corporation), Lubrasil, Lubrasil DS (both Guardian Laboratories), Nonychosine E, Nonychosine V (both exsymol), SanSurf Petrolatum-25, Satin Finish (both Collaborative Laboratories, Inc.), Silatex-D30 (Cosmetic Ingredient Resources), Silsoft 148 , Silsoft E-50, Silsoft E-623 (all aforementioned Crompton Corporation), SM555, SM2725, SM2765, SM2785 (all aforementioned GE Silicones), Taylor T-SiI CD-1, Taylor TME-4050E (all Taylor Chemical Company Wacker-Belsil CM 3092, Wacker-Belsil CM 5040, Wacker-Belsil DM 3096, Wacker-Belsil DM 3112 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 8005 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 60081 VP (all Wacker-Chemie GmbH mentioned above).

Dimethicones form the second group of silicones which may be present according to the invention. These may be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched.

Dimethicone copolyols (S3) form another group of silicones that are suitable. Corresponding dimethicone copolyols are commercially available and are sold, for example, by Dow Corning under the name Dow ^Corning® 5330 Fluid. Of course, the teaching according to the invention also encompasses the fact that the dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolymers can already be present as an emulsion. In this case, the corresponding emulsion of dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols from these and the conventional methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art. For this purpose, both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions. Of course, the emulsions of dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art.

When the dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols are used as emulsion, the droplet size of the emulsified particles is according to the invention 0.01 to 10000 microns, preferably 0.01 to 100 .mu.m, more preferably 0.01 to 20 microns and most preferably 0 , 01 to 10 μm. The particle size is determined by the method of light scattering.

If branched dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols are used, it is to be understood that the branching is greater than a random branching, which occurs randomly due to impurities of the respective monomers. For the purposes of the present invention, branched dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols are therefore to be understood as meaning that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%. Preferably, a degree of branching is greater than 0.1%, and most preferably greater than 0.5%. The degree of branching is determined from the ratio of the unbranched monomers to the branching monomers, that is, the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention, both low-branched and highly branched dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols can be very particularly preferred.

Particularly suitable silicones are amino-functional silicones, in particular the silicones, which are summarized under the INCI name Amodimethicone. It is therefore preferred according to the invention if the agents according to the invention additionally contain at least one amino-functional silicone. These are silicones which have at least one, optionally substituted, amino group. These silicones are referred to as amodimethicone according to the INCI nomenclature and are available for example in the form of an emulsion as a commercial product Dow Corning ^® 939 or as a commercial product Dow Corning ^® 949 in a mixture with a cationic and a nonionic surfactant.

Preferably, those amino-functional silicones are used which have an amine number above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g and especially preferably above 0.4 meq / g. The amine number stands for the milliequivalents of amine per gram of amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and also expressed in mg KOH / g.

The agents contain the silicones preferably in amounts of from 0.01% by weight to 15% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight, based on the total agent.

As a care substance of another class of compounds, the agent may contain, for example, at least one protein hydrolyzate and / or one of its derivatives.

Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins). According to the invention, the term protein hydrolyzates also means total hydrolyzates as well as individual amino acids and their derivatives as well as mixtures of different amino acids. The molecular weight of the protein hydrolysates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and very particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons.

According to the invention, protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin can be used.

Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois® ^® (Interorgana) Collapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ^® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess and Co), Lexein ^® (Inolex) sericin (Pentapharm) and kerasol tm ^® (Croda) sold.

The protein hydrolysates are present in the agents according to the invention, for example, in concentrations of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0 , 05 wt .-% up to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total application preparation included.

As a care substance, the agent according to the invention may further comprise at least one vitamin, a provitamin, a vitamin precursor and / or one of their derivatives.

According to the invention, such vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors are preferred, which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H.

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As a vitamin According to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol, as well as its esters, such as palmitate and acetate, come into consideration. The agents contain the vitamin A component preferably in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total application preparation.

Vitamin B ₁ (thiamin), vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin), vitamin B ₃ (nicotinic acid and / or nicotinamide (niacinamide)), vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid, panthenol and Pantolactone), vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin E (tocopherols, in particular α-tocopherol), vitamin F (linoleic acid and / or linolenic acid), vitamin H.

The agents according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, C, E and H. Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinamide and biotin are particularly preferred.

Very particular preference is given to using D-panthenol as care substance, if appropriate in combination with at least one of the abovementioned silicone derivatives.

As with the addition of glycerin and / or propylene glycol, the addition of panthenol increases the flexibility of the polymer film formed using the composition of the present invention. If, therefore, a particularly flexible hold is desired, the compositions according to the invention may contain panthenol instead of or in addition to glycerol and / or propylene glycol. In a preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention contain panthenol, preferably in an amount of 0.05 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total agent.

As a conditioner, the compositions according to the invention may further contain at least one plant extract.

Usually these extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, it may also be preferred in individual cases, the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or

Leaves of the plant produce.

According to the invention, especially the extracts of green tea, oak bark, nettle,

Witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, lime blossom,

Almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango,

Apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow,

Meadowfoam, Quendel, Yarrow, Thyme, Melissa, Hauhechel, Coltsfoot, Marshmallow,

Meristem, ginseng and ginger root preferred.

Furthermore, it may be preferred to use in the compositions according to the invention mixtures of several, especially two, different plant extracts. Mono- or oligosaccharides can also be used as a care substance in the compositions according to the invention.

Both monosaccharides and oligosaccharides, such as cane sugar, can be used.

Lactose and raffinose. The use of monosaccharides is preferred according to the invention. Among the monosaccharides, in turn, those compounds which contain 5 or 6 carbon atoms are preferred.

Suitable pentoses and hexoses are, for example, ribose, arabinose, xylose, lyxose,

Allose, altrose, glucose, mannose, gulose, idose, galactose, talose, fucose and fructose.

Arabinose, glucose, galactose and fructose are preferably used carbohydrates; Very particular preference is given to using glucose which is suitable both in the D - (+) or L - (-) configuration or as a racemate.

Furthermore, derivatives of these pentoses and hexoses, such as the corresponding on- and

Uronic acids (sugar acids), sugar alcohols and glycosides are used according to the invention.

Preferred sugars are gluconic acid, glucuronic acid, sugar acid, mannose acid and mucic acid. Preferred sugar alcohols are sorbitol, mannitol and dulcitol.

Preferred glycosides are the methylglucosides.

Since the monosaccharides or oligosaccharides used are usually made from natural raw materials such as

Starch are obtained, they usually have the corresponding to these raw materials

Configurations (e.g., D-glucose, D-fructose and D-galactose).

The mono- or oligosaccharides are preferred in the agents according to the invention in one

Amount of 0.1 to 8 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1 to 5 wt .-%, based on the total

Application preparation, included.

The agent may further contain at least one lipid as a care substance.

Lipids suitable according to the invention are phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, and also the substances known under the INCI names linoleic amidopropyl PG-dimonium chlorides phosphates, cocamidopropyl PG-dimonium chlorides phosphates and stearamidopropyl PG-dimonium chlorides phosphates. These are sold, for example, by the company Mona under the trade names Phospholipid ^EFA® , Phospholipid ^PTC® and Phospholipid ^SV® . The agents according to the invention preferably contain the lipids in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the total application preparation.

Furthermore, oil bodies are suitable as a care substance.

The natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies include, for example: vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil. Also suitable, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils. liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether Di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n Undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl-n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether. The compounds are available as commercial products 1, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) - cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE) may be preferred. Esteröle. Ester oils are to be understood as meaning the esters of C ₆ - C ₃₀ fatty acids with C ₂ - C ₃₀ fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. According to the invention, particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprate / caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (IPP Rilanit ^®), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), oleic acid decyl ester (Cetiol ^® V).

Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2- ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonat, butanediol di-isostearate, Neopentylglykoldicaprylat, symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example described in DE-OS 197 56 454, glycerol carbonate or dicaprylylcarbonate (Cetiol ^® CC),

Trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol,

Fatty acid partial glycerides, which are understood to mean monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. With the use of technical products production reasons may still contain small amounts of triglycerides. The partial glycerides preferably follow the formula (D4-I), CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _m R ¹

CHO (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ² (D4-I)

CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _q R ³ in which R ¹ , R ² and R ³ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of these groups represents a Acyl radical and at least one of these groups is hydrogen. The sum (m + n + q) is 0 or numbers from 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25. Preferably, R ^{1 is} an acyl radical and R ² and R ^{3 are} hydrogen and the sum (m + n + q) is 0. Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic , Elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Preferably, oleic acid monoglycerides are used.

The amount used of the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies in the compositions according to the invention is usually from 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the total application preparation, preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight, and in particular from 0.1 to 15% by weight. %.

Although each of the aforementioned care substances alone already gives a satisfactory result, in the context of the present invention, all embodiments are also included, in which the agent contains a plurality of care substances also from different groups.

By adding a UV filter, both the agents themselves and the treated fibers can be protected from the harmful effects of UV radiation. Preferably, therefore, at least one UV filter is added to the agent. The suitable UV filters are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties. On the contrary, all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and whose absorption maximum lies in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) range are suitable. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.

The UV filters preferred according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.

Examples of UV filters which can be used according to the invention are 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate (homosalates), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone (benzophenone-3; Uvinul ^® M 40, Uvasorb MET ^®, ^® Neo Heliopan BB, Eusolex ^® 4360), 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts ( Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid; Parsol ^® HS; Neo Heliopan Hydro ^®), 3,3 '- (1, 4-phenylenedimethylene) bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo [2.2.1] hept-1- yl-methane sulfonic acid) and salts thereof, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3- dione Methoxydibenzoylmethane (butyl; Parsol ^® 1789 Eusolex ^® 9020), α - (2-oxoborn-3-ylidene) - toluene-4-sulfonic acid and salts thereof, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester (PEG-25 PABA; Uvinul ^® P 25), 4-dimethylaminobenzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl (octyl dimethyl PABA; Uvasorb ^® DMO, Escalol ^® 507, Eusolex ^® 6007), salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl (octyl salicylate; Escalol ^® 587, Neo Heliopan OS ^®, Uvinul ^® 018), 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl (isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate; Neo Heliopan ^® e 1000), 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octyl Methoxycinnamate; Parsol ^® MCX, Escalol ^® 557, Neo Heliopan AV ^®), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt (Benzophenone- 4; Uvinul ^® MS 40; Uvasorb S 5 ^®), 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor (4-methylbenzylidene camphor; Parsol ^® 5000, Eusolex ^® 6300), 3-benzylidene-camphor (3- Benzylidene camphor), 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, 2,4,6-trianilino (p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxi) -1, 3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N - {(2 and 4) - [2-oxoborn-3-ylidene-methyl) -benzyl} -acrylamide, 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone (benzophenone-1; Uvasorb ^® 20 H, Uvinul ^® 400) 1, 1 '-Diphenylacrylonitrilsäure- 2-ethylhexyl ester (Octocrylene; Eusolex ^® OCR, Neo Heliopan ^® Type 303, Uvinul ^® N 539 SG), o- aminobenzoic acid menthyl ester (menthyl anthranilates ; Neo Heliopan MA ^®), 2,2 ', 4,4'-tetrahydropyran droxybenzophenon (benzophenone-2; Uvinul ^® D-50), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone (Benzophenone-6) , 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone-5-sodium sulfonate and 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylic acid 2'-ethylhexyl ester. Preference is given to 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone , 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 3,3 '- (1, 4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo- [2.2.1] hept-1-yl-methanesulphonic acid) and its salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, α- (2-oxoboron) 3-ylidene) -toluene-4-sulfonic acid and its salts, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester, 2-ethylhexyl 4-dimethylaminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate , 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt, 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 3-benzylidene-camphor, 4-isopropylbenzylsalicylate, 2,4,6-tri- anilino - (p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxy) -1, 3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N - {(2 and 4) - [2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl} -acrylamide. Very particularly preferred according to the invention are 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester and 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor.

The UV filters are usually contained in amounts of 0.01-5 wt .-%, based on the total application preparation. Amounts of 0.1-2.5 wt .-% are preferred. In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention also contains one or more substantive dyes. This allows the treated keratin fiber not only to be temporarily patterned when the agent is applied, but also dyed at the same time. This may be particularly desirable if only a temporary dyeing is desired, for example, with eye-catching fashion colors, which can be removed again by simple washing from the keratinic fiber.

Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols. Preferred substantive dyes are those having the international designations or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, HC Orange 1, HC Red 1, HC Red 1, HC Red 13, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, HC Red BN, Pigment Red 57: 1, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Black 9, Acid Black 1, and Acid Black 52 known compounds and 1, 4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1, 4-bis (ß-hydroxyethyl) - amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4- (ß-hydroxyethyl ) -aminophenol, 2- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-4-methyl-2-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethyl) - amino-5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 1- (2'-ureidoethyl) amino-4-nitrobenzene, A-amino-2-nitrodiphe nylamine-2'-carboxylic acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, 2-hydroxy-1, 4-naphthoquinone, picramic acid and its salts, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4- Ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-1-hydroxy-4-nitrobenzene. Preference is given to using cationic substantive dyes. Particularly preferred are

(a) cationic triphenylmethane dyes such as Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14,

(b) aromatic systems substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group, such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17, as well as

(C) substantive dyes containing a heterocycle having at least one quaternary nitrogen atom, as mentioned for example in EP-A2-998 908, which is explicitly referred to at this point, are claimed in claims 6 to 11.

The dyes which are also known by the names Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51 are very particularly preferred cationic substantive dyes of group (c). The cationic direct dyes, which are sold under the trademark Arianor ^®, according to the invention are also very particularly preferred cationic direct dyes.

The agents according to the invention according to this embodiment preferably contain the substantive dyes in an amount of 0.001 to 20 wt .-%, based on the total agent. It is preferred according to the invention that the agents according to the invention are free of oxidation dye precursors. Oxidation dye precursors are classified into so-called developer components and coupler components. The developer components form the actual dyes under the influence of oxidizing agents or of atmospheric oxygen with one another or with coupling with one or more coupler components.

The formulation of the compositions according to the invention can be carried out in all forms customary for styling agents, for example in the form of solutions which can be applied to the hair as hair lotions or pump or aerosol spray, in the form of creams, emulsions, waxes, gels or surfactant-containing foaming agents Solutions or other preparations suitable for use on the hair.

Hair creams and gels generally contain structurants and / or thickening polymers which serve to give the products the desired consistency. Structurants and / or thickening polymers are typically used in an amount of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total product. Amounts of 0.5 to 5 wt .-%, in particular 0.5 to 3 wt .-% are preferred.

Preferably, the agents according to the invention are packaged as pump spray, aerosol spray, pump foam or aerosol foam.

For this purpose, the agents according to the invention are packaged in a dispensing device, which is either an additionally filled with a propellant compressed gas container ("aerosol container") or a non-aerosol container.

The pressurized gas containers, with the aid of which a product is distributed by the internal gas pressure of the container via a valve, are defined as "aerosol containers". As a "nonaerosol container", a container under normal pressure is defined in reverse to the aerosol definition, with the aid of which a product is distributed by means of mechanical action by a pumping system.

With particular preference the agents according to the invention are packaged as aerosol hair foam or aerosol hair spray. The agent according to the invention therefore preferably additionally contains at least one propellant.

Propellants suitable according to the invention are selected, for example, from N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ , air, alkanes having 3 to 5 carbon atoms, such as propane, n-butane, isobutane, n-pentane and isopentane, and mixtures thereof. Preference is given to dimethyl ether, propane, n-butane, isobutane and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, said alkanes, mixtures of said alkanes or mixtures of said alkanes with dimethyl ether are used as sole blowing agent. However, the invention expressly also includes the concomitant use of propellants of the type of chlorofluorocarbons, but in particular of fluorocarbons.

With regard to the quantity ratio of blowing agent to the other constituents of the preparations, the sizes of the aerosol droplets or of the foam bubbles and the respective size distribution can be set for a given spraying device.

The amount of blowing agent used varies depending on the specific composition of the composition, the packaging used and the desired product type, such as hair spray or hair foam. When using conventional spraying aerosol foam products contain the propellant preferably in amounts of 1 to 35 wt .-%, based on the total product. Amounts of 2 to 30 wt .-%, in particular from 3 to 15 wt .-% are particularly preferred. Aerosol sprays generally contain larger amounts of propellant. Preferably, the blowing agent is used in this case in an amount of 30 to 98 wt .-%, based on the total product. Amounts of 40 to 95 wt .-%, in particular from 50 to 95 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

The aerosol products can be prepared in the usual way. As a rule, all constituents of the respective agent, with the exception of the propellant, are introduced into a suitable pressure-resistant container. This is then closed with a valve. By conventional techniques, finally, the desired amount of blowing agent is introduced.

For the foaming of gel-like agents in a two-chamber aerosol container isopentane is preferably suitable as a propellant, which is incorporated into the compositions according to the invention and is packaged in the first chamber of the two-chamber aerosol container. In the second chamber of the two-chamber aerosol container, at least one further propellant other than isopentane is made up, which builds up a higher pressure in the two-chamber aerosol container than the isopentane. The blowing agents of the second chamber are preferably selected from N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ , air, alkanes having 3 or 4 carbon atoms (such as propane, n-butane, isobutane) and mixtures thereof.

A preferred embodiment of the agents according to the invention are aerosol hair foams or aerosol hair sprays containing the previously described inventive agent and at least one propellant. Preferred inventive agents and blowing agents of the aerosol hair foam or aerosol hair spray, as well as the respective amounts of propellant correspond to those already mentioned above.

A second object of the invention is the use of the compositions according to the invention for the temporary deformation of hair and / or hair care.

The compositions according to the invention and products which contain these agents, in particular aerosol hair foams or aerosol hair sprays, are distinguished in particular by the fact that they give treated hair a very strong, lasting hairstyle hold, although the hair remains flexible. If the product is formulated as a hair foam, a stable, fine-pored and creamy foam forms, which can be distributed evenly and without dripping on the hair.

A third object of the invention is a method for treating keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, wherein a means according to the first subject of the invention is foamed to a foam using a dispenser and the resulting foam is applied to the keratin-containing fibers.

It is inventively preferred that the keratin-containing fibers are brought into shape and this form is fixed by the means of the first subject of the invention.

Preferred according to the invention are the abovementioned dispensers (vide supra).

A fourth subject of the invention is a method for treating keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, wherein an agent according to the first subject of the invention is applied as a spray to the keratin-containing fibers using a dispensing device.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the subject matter of the present invention without limiting it in any way. Examples

Unless otherwise stated, the following quantities are by weight.

The following recipes were provided by mixing the components:

The formulations A to K were each filled into an aerosol container, which meets the following technical parameters: aluminum storage container with valve product 522983 PV10697 from Pecision (German Precision Valve GmbH).

The aerosol container was filled with a propellant gas mixture of propane / butane (47% by weight of propane, 50% by weight of butane, 3% by weight of isobutane), resulting in a weight ratio of formulation to propellant gas of 92 to 8.

All formulas produced an excellent flexible hairstyle hold after application on the hair. The hair received a very good care. If the formulations were applied as aerosol foam, a voluminous foam was obtained, which breaks significantly only during use on the hair. List of raw materials used:

Aquastyle ^® 300 copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone / N-vinylcaprolactam / N- (3-dimethylaminopropyl) methacrylannid and 3-

(Methacryloylamino) propyl-lauryl-dinethylannonium chloride (active substance 30% by weight in water / ethanol, INCI name: Polyquaternium-69) (ISP)

CeIq uat ^® L 200 quaternized cellulose derivative (INCI name: Polyquaternium-4) (National Starch) Gafquat ^® 755 N PW dimethylaminoethyl-vinylpyrrolidone copolymer, quaternized with diethyl sulfate (ca. 19% solids in water; INCI name: Polyquaternium -11) (ISP)

Luviquat ^® FC 370 3-methyl-i-vinylinnidazoliunnchlorid-vinylpyrrolidone Copolynnerisat (30:70) (38-42% solids in water; INCI name: Polyquaternium-16) (BASF) Luviquat ^® Supreme vinylpyrrolidone methacrylamide Vinylinnidazol-Vinylinnidazoliunnnnetho - sulfate copolymer (55: 29: 10: 6) (19-21% solids in water; INCI name: Polyquaternium-68) (BASF) Styleze ^® W-10 copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone, N, N-dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide and N, N-dimethyl-N-dodecylammoniopropylmethacrylamide chloride (about 9 to 11% active ingredient, INCI name: Polyquaternium-55) (ISP)

Styleze W-20 ^® copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone, N, N-dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and N, N-dimethyl-N- dodecylammoniopropylmethacrylamid chloride (about 19 to 21% of active substance, INCI name: Polyquaternium-55) (ISP) Styleze CC ^® 10 Copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone and N, N-dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide (about 9 to 11% of active substance, INCI name: VP / DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer) (ISP)

Claims

Patent claims

1. Agent for the treatment of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, containing in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

(a) at least one amphiphilic cationic polymer comprising at least one

wherein

X ¹ and X ² independently of one another represent an oxygen atom or a group NH, A ¹ and A ² independently of one another represent a group of ethane-1,2-diyl, propan-1, 3-diyl or butane-1, 4-diyl .

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains as component (b) at least two additional film-forming cationic and / or strengthening cationic polymers.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that according to formula (III) or formula (IV) R ¹ and R ⁴ each represent a methyl group.

4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that according to formula (III) or formula (IV) A ¹ and A ² are independently ethane-1, 2-diyl or propane-1, 3-diyl.

5. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that according to formula (IM) or formula (IV) R ² , R ³ , R ⁵ and R ⁶ are independently of one another methyl or ethyl, in particular methyl),

6. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that according to formula (IV) R ⁷ is a (C ₁₀ to C ₂₄ ) alkyl group, in particular decyl (caprinyl), dodecyl (Lauryl), tetradecyl (myristyl), hexadecyl (cetyl), octadecyl (stearyl), eicosyl (arachyl) or docosyl (behenyl).

7. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the amphiphilic cationic polymer contained therein at least one structural unit of the formula (I), at least one structural unit of the formula (II), at least one structural unit of the formula (III-8) and at least one structural unit of the formula (IV-8)

wherein R ⁷ is octyl (capryl), decyl (caprinyl), dodecyl (lauryl), tetradecyl (myristyl), hexadecyl (cetyl), octadecyl (stearyl), eicosyl (arachyl) or docosyl (behenyl).

8. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that said amphiphilic cationic polymers in an amount of 0.1 wt .-% to 20.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably of 0.2 wt. % to 10.0 wt .-%, most preferably from 0.5 to 5.0 wt.%, Each based on the weight of the composition, are included.

9. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the film-forming cationic and / or setting cationic polymers (b) in an amount of 0.1 wt .-% to 20.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably of 0.2 wt .-% to 10.0 wt .-%, most preferably from 0.5 wt .-% to 5.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition according to the invention are included.

10. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that at least one additional film-forming cationic and / or strengthening cationic polymer (b) is contained, which contains at least one structural element of the formula (M1)

in which

11. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that additional film-forming cationic and / or strengthening cationic polymers (b) are selected from at least one cationic, quaternized cellulose derivative.

12. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that at least one additional film-forming cationic and / or strengthening cationic polymer (b) is contained, the at least one structural unit of the formula (I) and at least one structural unit of the formula (V) and at least one structural unit of the formula (VI)

wherein

R ⁷ is a (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) alkyl group.

13. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that in addition to the component (a) as component (b) contains (bl) at least one cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer selected from at least one cationic, quaternized cellulose derivative and

(bll) at least one cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer other than (a) and (bl) selected from at least one polymer of the group formed

R ¹ and R ⁴ independently represent a hydrogen atom or a

Methyl group,

A ¹ and A ² independently of one another are a group of ethane-1,2-diyl, propane

1, 3-diyl or butane-1, 4-diyl,

R ⁷ is a (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) -alkyl group,

Polymers comprising at least one structural element of the formula (M 1)

in which

14. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it contains in addition to the component (a) as component (b)

(bl) at least one cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer containing at least one structural element of the formula (M 1)

wherein

R is a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group, and additionally has at least one further cationic and / or nonionic structural element, and (bll) at least one cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (I) and at least one structural unit of the formula (V) and at least one structural unit of the formula (VI)

wherein

R ¹ and R ⁴ independently represent a hydrogen atom or a

Methyl group,

R ⁷ is a (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) alkyl group.

15. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that it is in the form of an aerosol foam or aerosol spray.