EP2306868A2 - Procédé de traitement de fibres kératineuses humaines - Google Patents

Procédé de traitement de fibres kératineuses humaines

Info

Publication number
EP2306868A2
EP2306868A2 EP09786763A EP09786763A EP2306868A2 EP 2306868 A2 EP2306868 A2 EP 2306868A2 EP 09786763 A EP09786763 A EP 09786763A EP 09786763 A EP09786763 A EP 09786763A EP 2306868 A2 EP2306868 A2 EP 2306868A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
product
piece
application
acid
notably
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP09786763A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Stéphane Arditty
Florence Lahousse
Nathalie Jager Lezer
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
LOreal SA
Original Assignee
LOreal SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Publication of EP2306868A2 publication Critical patent/EP2306868A2/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45DHAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D40/00Casings or accessories specially adapted for storing or handling solid or pasty toiletry or cosmetic substances, e.g. shaving soaps or lipsticks
    • A45D40/26Appliances specially adapted for applying pasty paint, e.g. using roller, using a ball
    • A45D40/262Appliances specially adapted for applying pasty paint, e.g. using roller, using a ball using a brush or the like
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45DHAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D40/00Casings or accessories specially adapted for storing or handling solid or pasty toiletry or cosmetic substances, e.g. shaving soaps or lipsticks
    • A45D40/08Casings or accessories specially adapted for storing or handling solid or pasty toiletry or cosmetic substances, e.g. shaving soaps or lipsticks with provision for sieves or shaping parts for sticks ends
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A46BRUSHWARE
    • A46BBRUSHES
    • A46B11/00Brushes with reservoir or other means for applying substances, e.g. paints, pastes, water
    • A46B11/001Brushes with reservoir or other means for applying substances, e.g. paints, pastes, water with integral reservoirs
    • A46B11/0068Brushes where the reservoir is specifically intended for solid substance that dissolves gradually
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A46BRUSHWARE
    • A46BBRUSHES
    • A46B11/00Brushes with reservoir or other means for applying substances, e.g. paints, pastes, water
    • A46B11/08Brushes with reservoir or other means for applying substances, e.g. paints, pastes, water with heating means
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A46BRUSHWARE
    • A46BBRUSHES
    • A46B15/00Other brushes; Brushes with additional arrangements
    • A46B15/0002Arrangements for enhancing monitoring or controlling the brushing process
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A46BRUSHWARE
    • A46BBRUSHES
    • A46B15/00Other brushes; Brushes with additional arrangements
    • A46B15/0002Arrangements for enhancing monitoring or controlling the brushing process
    • A46B15/0016Arrangements for enhancing monitoring or controlling the brushing process with enhancing means
    • A46B15/003Enhancing with heat
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0216Solid or semisolid forms
    • A61K8/0229Sticks
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/10Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45DHAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D2200/00Details not otherwise provided for in A45D
    • A45D2200/15Temperature
    • A45D2200/155Heating or cooling means, i.e. for storing or applying cosmetic products at a predetermined temperature
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45DHAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D2200/00Details not otherwise provided for in A45D
    • A45D2200/15Temperature
    • A45D2200/155Heating or cooling means, i.e. for storing or applying cosmetic products at a predetermined temperature
    • A45D2200/157Heating means for mascara applicators
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A46BRUSHWARE
    • A46BBRUSHES
    • A46B2200/00Brushes characterized by their functions, uses or applications
    • A46B2200/10For human or animal care
    • A46B2200/1046Brush used for applying cosmetics
    • A46B2200/1053Cosmetics applicator specifically for mascara
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/24Thermal properties
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/87Application Devices; Containers; Packaging

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a method for coating keratinous fibers with a make-up or care composition, notably mascara.
  • mascara » is designated a composition intended to be applied on eyelashes.
  • This may be a make-up composition for eyelashes, a make-up base for eyelashes (also called base coat), a composition to be applied on a mascara, a so-called top-coat, or else further a composition for cosmetic treatment of eyelashes.
  • Mascara is more particularly intended for eyelashes of human beings, but also for false eyelashes.
  • compositions for making up eyelashes or mascaras include at least one wax or a mixture of waxes dispersed in an aqueous liquid phase or an organic solvent. They generally have a pasty texture and are conditioned in a container comprising a reservoir provided with a wiper and an applicator, notably as a brush or a comb, and they are applied by picking up product in the reservoir with the applicator, passing the applicator through the wiper in order to remove the excess product, and then having the applicator impregnated with the composition come into contact with the eyelashes.
  • an applicator notably as a brush or a comb
  • mascaras in a solid form so-called « cake mascaras » are known from US 2 007 245 or FR 2 833 163, which are compositions including a strong proportion of waxes, pigments and surfactants, disintegrable in water, i.e. they require, prior to their application on the eyelashes, being put into contact with an aqueous phase so as to partly solubilize the mascara.
  • the application is accomplished via a brush impregnated with water which is put into contact with the mascara and then the picked-up mixture is applied on the eyelashes with the brush.
  • US 5,856,653 describes a heating device for melting a mascara residue which has dried and has become unusable.
  • US 5,775,344 describes a conditioning and application device for a pasty mascara provided with a heating device.
  • US 2008/0035165 Al discloses a heating applicator using solid mascara.
  • US 2007/0286831 discloses a device in which solid mascara is deposited on a heating applicator.
  • WO 2007/114551 discloses a heating device comprising a container filled with a liquid or creamy mascara composition likely to harden when drying.
  • FR 2 914 161 discloses a device comprising a stick of solid mascara.
  • the device comprises an application head provided with a heating device to melt the stick and enable the melted material to flow through apertures of the application head.
  • the invention relates to a method for cosmetic treatment of human keratinous fibers, comprising: a) heating with contact to or in the vicinity of a heating device, an outer surface of a piece of solid product, so as to heat said piece in a localized way in order to only substantially soften said outer surface, and b) applying the thereby softened product on the fibers to be treated, for example eyelashes.
  • the outer surface that is softened by heat may be an apparent surface during the heating step.
  • the softening may either range or not up to local melting of the product.
  • the whole product is not melted, at least upon first use.
  • the outer surface when the product is in the form of a stick, may be defined by the end of the latter; alternatively, the outer surface is defined by the side surface of the stick.
  • the outer softened surface may be brought into contact with the region to be treated, then forming an application surface.
  • the invention by means of localized heating on the outer surface, may allow application of a product in the form of a stick for example, while obtaining better results than those obtained without heating up the outer surface.
  • the rise in temperature of the product on the outer surface may make certain constituents of the product more easily compatible, for example leading to better hold and/or brightness.
  • the product may be a known product, the invention making it possible for example to obtain better flowability upon application, a greater deposit, a more intense color and/or more brightness.
  • the invention also provides new possibilities of formulation and/or packaging.
  • the invention may notably allow the use of a harder product, therefore more easier to package as a stick for example, without fearing insufficient transfer of the product upon application.
  • the piece of product may have a hardness greater than or equal to 45 g, preferably greater than or equal to 5Og, preferentially greater than or equal to 6Og, preferentially greater than or equal to 7Og, still preferentially greater than or equal to 75 g at 20 0 C.
  • the product may contain at least a cosmetic active substance, at least one organic or aqueous solvent, at least one coloring agent, notably a pigment generating color by an absorption and/or interferential phenomenon.
  • the product may possibly include a thermochrome coloring agent, allowing the user to view the heating-up of the outer surface.
  • the heating device used for softening the outer surface of the product is an artificial heat source, i.e. a heat source other than human or animal heat, the heat of the sun or the heat which may result from friction of the application surface on the keratinous fibers upon application.
  • the heat source may be other than the heat produced by combustion of a fuel in ambient air, for example the flame of a lighter or of a candle.
  • Providing heat to the outer surface for heating up the latter for example causes a local rise of at least 5°C of its temperature, better of at least 10 0 C, or even 20 0 C or 30 0 C.
  • the piece of product may retain a core remaining at a temperature less than or equal to 30 0 C, during the application, for a room temperature of 20 0 C, at least when the piece of product includes the initial amount of product.
  • the product may be heated up by exposing it to infrared radiation, radiowave radiation, be heated up by blowing hot air, be heated up by being exposed to ultrasonic vibrations or be heated up by heat transfer upon contact with or in proximity to a hot surface.
  • the latter may be axially and/or radially pressed against the application surface, for example the end of the stick when the piece of product is in the form of a stick.
  • the heating device may heat up the product in a controlled way, by means of temperature control.
  • the hot surface may be flexible, if necessary.
  • the piece of product is solid at room temperature (20 0 C), i.e. it retains the shape which was given to it when it was made and it does not flow under the effect of gravity.
  • the temperature Tf to which the outer surface of the product is heated may be greater than or equal to 40 0 C, better 50 0 C, still better 60 0 C, still better greater than or equal to 70 0 C and still better greater than or equal to 80 0 C.
  • the distal end of the piece of product may be heated to the temperature Tf.
  • the outer surface may also be defined by a portion of the side surface of the piece of product.
  • the supply of energy for softening the outer surface of the product may occur for at least 60 s, better for less than 30 s, or even 10 s.
  • the application of the softened product may take place without the softened product flowing through apertures of the heating device.
  • the method may during the application of the product include the step of engaging the eyelashes between protruding members, for example teeth, for combing the eyelashes.
  • the protruding members may remain firmly attached to the piece of product during the application.
  • the protruding members may be positioned so that the eyelashes contact both the outer softened surface and the protruding members.
  • the softened product may be brought into contact with the fibers while the softened product is borne by the piece of product.
  • the softened product may be in contact only with the remaining piece of product, during the application of the softened product.
  • the softened product may also be brought into contact with the fibers after transferring the softened product onto a support used for the application. Such a support may be completely detached from the remaining solid piece of product during the application.
  • the support may be used without any wiping between loading with softened product and application.
  • the heating device may further heat at least one surface of a material other than the product, being used for the application, and this surface being used for the application may include a row of protruding members.
  • the piece of product is originally packaged and offered to the user in a solid state.
  • the piece of product is in a solid state at the first use of the device, having a predetermined shape, for example a stick shape.
  • the invention further relates, according to another of its aspects, to a device for conditioning and applying a product intended to be applied on human keratinous fibers, this product being in the form of a solid piece, notably a stick, the product advantageously having a hardness greater than or equal to 45g at 20 0 C, better 5Og at 20 0 C, the device including: - a support of said solid piece of product, the latter having an outer surface;
  • a heating device which may brought into contact with or to the vicinity of said outer surface in order to heat said piece in a localized way, in order to only substantially soften said outer surface.
  • the means for assisting with application/finishing may include one or more rows of protruding members for combing the fibers.
  • the means assisting with application/finishing may be heated by the heating device, for example to a temperature greater than or equal to 30 0 C, or even 40 0 C, or even 50 0 C.
  • the means of assisting with application/finishing may be positioned or is capable of being positioned in the vicinity of the outer surface, notably around the whole or part of the latter.
  • the heating device may be integral with the piece of product during the use of the device in order to apply the product on the fibers.
  • the product may be packaged in a packaging device which may be sealably closed.
  • the piece of product may be initially molded into the desired shape, for example as a stick, without any frame, or on a frame and/or a gripping portion, being for example supported by a rod.
  • the hot surface may be capable of being crossed by the piece of product, notably the stick, for example having an annular shape.
  • the hot surface may further come into contact with or face the application surface of the piece of product, notably the end face of the stick of product or at least a portion of its side surface.
  • the hot surface may be flexible and deformed by the piece of product when they are put into contact with each other.
  • the product may be heated up while the piece of product, notably the stick, is entirely contained in a packaging device.
  • the product may also be heated up while the piece of product, notably the stick, is at least partly exposed to ambient air.
  • the stick preferably has a smallest dimension in cross-section that is greater than 4 mm, better greater than or equal to 5 mm, for example lying in the range 4 to 14 mm or more.
  • the cross-section may exceed 12 mm 2 .
  • the stick may have a diameter greater than 4 mm or more.
  • the stick may have a kidney shape in cross-section.
  • the stick may have a thickness that is greater than or equal to 4 mm.
  • the stick may be loaded in the heating device from a same end as the end from which the softened product is delivered.
  • the product may be locally heated up to a temperature greater than or equal to 40 0 C, or even greater than 45 0 C or further greater than 50 0 C.
  • the temperature of the application surface notably of the end of the stick, should not cause any risk of burns at the moment when it is applied. This is why a waiting period between the moment when the end is heated and the application of the keratinous materials may possibly be required.
  • the temperature Tf to which the product is initially heated up locally at the surface of application may be comprised between 40 0 C and 95 0 C, better from 45 0 C to 85 0 C, still better from 45 0 C to 75 0 C.
  • the temperature difference between the heated-up application surface, notably the end of the stick or its side surface, and the non-heated portion, for example the core of the stick may be greater than or equal to 15 0 C, or even greater than or equal to 20 0 C, at least at the beginning of the application, or even greater than 30 0 C.
  • the end of the piece of product may be put into contact with a hot source, so that the temperature of this end at the surface over at least 0.5 mm for example, rises to Tf or more.
  • the temperature Tf at which the outer surface of the product is heated may be greater than or equal to 40 0 C, in particular greater than or equal to 45 0 C.
  • the temperature Tf may for example be measured at the surface by means of an infrared pyrometer.
  • the keratinous fibers may be held against the soften product by a counter-surface, which may be at room temperature or be heated.
  • Heating of the counter- surface of the piece of product may be obtained by means of this counter- surface, if necessary.
  • the counter- surface may for example be heated by an electric resistor.
  • the heating device may include a means for holding the counter-surface in a predefined position relatively to the piece of product.
  • movement of the keratinous fibers relatively to the softened product may be obtained by manually displacing the product and/or by means of a motorized mechanism for driving the piece of product, for example by having it rotate on itself.
  • the movement of rotation may be carried out towards the tip of the eyelashes.
  • the product according to the invention may be a cosmetic composition with reversible solid/liquid state transition.
  • the solid/liquid transition state may be due to melting of a crystalline fraction, for example one or more waxes.
  • hydrocarbon waxes may be cited such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and China insect waxes, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers as well as their esters.
  • the mechanical cohesion of the piece of the product may be reinforced by using a greater proportion of waxes, and/or using more structuring waxes, without the presence of waxes being detrimental to the application.
  • the piece of product, notably the stick may during application of the product on the keratinous fibers be firmly attached to a sheath including a mechanism allowing gradual displacement of the piece of product, notably a mechanism including two rotary parts relatively to each other.
  • the displacement of the product may be unidirectional or bidirectional, depending on how the sheath is made.
  • the object of the invention is further, according to one of its aspects, a conditioning and application device of a solid piece of product intended for application on keratinous fibers, notably a stick product, comprising:
  • a support of said solid piece of product which may include protruding elements for combing the keratinous fibers, a heating device firmly attached or which may be firmly attached to the conditioning and application device, in contact with, or which may be brought into contact with or in the vicinity of an outer surface of the piece of product, so as to heat said piece in localized way in order to only substantially soften said outer surface, for example over a depth which may attain 0.5 mm to 5 mm, better 0.5 mm to 2 mm.
  • the object of the invention is further a conditioning and application device of a product intended for application on keratinous fibers and in the form of a solid piece of product, comprising: a support bearing the piece of product, notably a stick of product, so as to allow application of the product by engaging the piece of product, notably the stick, with keratinous fibers, a device for heating an application surface of the piece of product, notably the end of the stick or of its side surface, firmly attached to the support or to its outer surface at least during heating of the application surface, allowing the application surface to be heated to a temperature above that of a portion of the piece of product remaining solid during the application, the heating device being located outside the piece of product.
  • the heating device may be housed in a closure cap of the support, so that the application surface, notably the end of the stick, may be heated, with the cap in place on the support.
  • the heating device is housed in a casing on which the support may be engaged, so that heating may occur when the support is engaged into the casing.
  • the casing may include an aperture into which the piece of product may be engaged, preferably without the whole of the support being positioned inside the casing. Still alternatively, the heating device may be firmly attached to the support.
  • the device according to the invention may include a control means allowing the the user to control the operation of the heating device.
  • This control means may include a switch present on the support or on a closure cap of the support.
  • the device may include an electric resistor for heating a surface which may come into contact with the application surface or in proximity to the latter.
  • the device may include an infrared emitter laid out in order to subject the application surface, notably the end of the stick, to infrared light in order to heat up the latter.
  • the heating device may further include a means for emitting radiowave radiation, for example microwaves, with which the temperature of the application surface may be raised, notably that of the end of the stick.
  • a means for emitting radiowave radiation for example microwaves, with which the temperature of the application surface may be raised, notably that of the end of the stick.
  • the heating device may include a fan for blowing hot air on the application surface, notably the end of the stick.
  • the heating device may include a source of ultrasound for heating the end of the stick.
  • the heating device may include at least two components capable of producing an exothermic reaction when they are mixed.
  • the thereby produced heat may be transferred to the outer surface being used for the application, notably to the end of the stick.
  • the product may be applied under dry conditions, i.e. the product is able to form a preferably adherent and covering deposit, on the keratinous fibers without requiring prior contact with an aqueous phase, as opposed to the caked mascaras which are disintegrable in water and should be partly solubilized beforehand in order to be applied on the fibers and form an adherent and covering deposit.
  • the piece of product may be obtained by pouring it in the liquid state into a mold and removing it in the solid state from the mold or by extrusion. Measurement of hardness
  • the surface of the stick is cut with a scalpel so as to be completely planar.
  • the texture analyzer TA/XT2 (from Stable Micro Systems Ltd), linked to the Texture Expert
  • Exceed V2.12 software package [from Stable Micro Systems Ltd] measures the compressive force. Two measurements at different locations are conducted on each of the three samples, and the average of the measurements is then retained.
  • R is the radius of the cylindrical mobile, so as to be expressed in N.m "2 .
  • the apparatus For a measurement at room temperature, the apparatus is in an air-conditioned room at the room temperature of 20 0 C.
  • the surface of the product is heated to the same temperature as for applying the method according to the invention and the mobile is heated to 30 0 C.
  • the composition may comprise a continuous oily phase or a continuous aqueous phase.
  • the composition used in the method according to the invention advantageously comprises a liquid fatty phase and at least one structuring agent of said liquid fatty phase, via which the hardness of the composition is adjusted.
  • liquid fatty phase in the sense of the invention, is meant a liquid fatty phase at room temperature (25 0 C) and under atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), consisting of one or more liquid non-aqueous fats at room temperature also called oils, compatible with each other.
  • the oil may be selected from volatile oil and/or non-volatile oils and mixtures thereof.
  • the oil(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 5 to 85 % by weight based on the total weight of the composition, preferably from 10 to 70 % and still more preferably from 15 to 60 % by weight.
  • volatile oil » is meant in the sense of the invention, an oil capable of evaporating upon contact with the skin or the keratinous fiber in less than one hour, at room temperature and under atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile organic solvent(s) and the volatile oils of the invention are organic solvents and volatile cosmetic oils, liquid at room temperature, with non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and under atmospheric pressure, in particular ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 " to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1,300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).
  • non-volatile oil » is meant an oil remaining on the skin or on the keratinous fiber at room temperature and under atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and notably having a vapor pressure of less than 10 " mm Hg (0.13 Pa).
  • oils may be hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof.
  • hydrocarbon oil » is meant an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and possibly oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, phosphorus atoms.
  • Volatile hydrocarbon oils may be selected from hydrocarbon oils having 8-16 carbon atoms, and notably from branched Cs-Ci 6 alkanes such as Cs-Ci 6 isoalkanes originating from petroleum (also called isoparaffms) such as isododecane (further called 2,2,4,4, 6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or Permetyls, branched Cs-Ci 6 esters, iso-hexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
  • volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, notably those sold under the name of Shell SoIt by SHELL, may also be used.
  • the volatile solvent contained in the product may comprise, preferably mainly, a solvent of the linear volatile alcane(s) type.
  • a solvent of the linear volatile alcane(s) type By “mainly” is to be understood that the solvent comprises at least 80% in weight, better at least 90% in weight, still better at least 95%, even better 98% in weight of linear volatile alcane(s) with respect to the total weight of hydrocarbons materials in the solvent.
  • a volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention or a solvent of the linear volatile alkane(s) type may have a volatility such that the amount of solvent evaporated in 30 minutes at atmospheric pressure is less than
  • 24 mg/cm 2 and more particularly is included in the range from 2.4 to 18 mg/cm 2 , more particularly from 3 to 12 mg/cm 2 , and more particularly from 3.3 to 6 mg/cm 2 .
  • a volatility of less than 0.8 mg/cmVmin at 25 0 C makes it possible, advantageously, to endow a composition of the invention with enhanced staying power.
  • the volatility of a volatile linear alkane in accordance with the invention or of a solvent of the linear volatile alkane(s) type may be evaluated especially by means of the protocol described in WO 06/013413, and more particularly by means of the protocol described below.
  • a crystallizing basin (diameter: 7 cm) placed on a balance which is located within a chamber of approximately 0.3 m 3 whose temperature (25°C) and hygrometry (50% relative humidity) are regulated is charged with 15 g of volatile linear alkane or of a solvent of the linear volatile alkane(s) type.
  • the liquid is left to evaporate freely, without being stirred, with ventilation by a fan (PAPST-MOTOREN, article 8550 N, rotating at 2700 revolutions/minute) placed vertically above the crystallizing basin containing the volatile linear alkane, the blades being directed towards the crystallizing basin, at a distance of 20 cm relative to the base of the crystallizing basin.
  • a fan PAPST-MOTOREN, article 8550 N, rotating at 2700 revolutions/minute
  • Measurements are made at regular intervals of time of the mass of volatile linear alkane or volatile solvent of the linear alkane(s) type remaining in the crystallizing basin.
  • a volatile linear alkane and/or a volatile solvent of the linear alkane(s) type in accordance with the invention may have a flash point lying in the range 70 to 120 0 C, for example 80 to 100 0 C, for example about 89°C. More particularly a volatile solvent of the linear alkane(s) type may be selected from volatile linear alkanes comprising from 9 to 15 carbon atoms, and in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms.
  • a volatile linear alkane may be of plant origin.
  • An alkane of this kind may be obtained, directly or in two or more steps, from a plant raw material such as an oil, a butter, a wax, etc.
  • alkanes suitable for the invention include the alkanes described in the Cognis patent application WO 2007/ 068371.
  • alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, which in turn are obtained from copra oil or palm oil.
  • composition of the invention may comprise a volatile solvent of the linear alkane(s) type comprising at least one linear alkane selected from n-nonane (C9), n-dodecane (ClO), n-undecane (CI l), n-dodecane (C 12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), n-pentadecane (C15), and mixtures thereof. More particularly a volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention may be employed in the form of an n-undecane/n-tridecane mixture.
  • the n-undecane :n-tridecane weight ratio may be 50:50 to 90:10, preferably from 60:40 to 80:20, preferably from 65:35 to 75:25.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise a volatile n-undecane :n-tridecane mixture in a weight ratio of 76:24 such as prepared in Example 1 of WO 2008/155059.
  • a composition in accordance with the present invention may comprise a volatile solvent of the linear alkane(s) type comprising a mixture of linear volatile alkanes comprising n-undecane(Cl l) and n-tridecane(C13), in particular available from the company Cognis.
  • the product in accordance with the present invention comprises at least one volatile solvent, preferably selected among volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, still preferably among Cs-Ci 6 branched alkanes, linear alkanes comprising 9 to 15 carbons, such as described above, and mixtures thereof.
  • volatile oils such as for example volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, notably those having a viscosity ⁇ 8 centistokes (8 10 ⁇ 6 m 2 /s), and notably having 2-7 silicon atoms, these silicones possibly including alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1-10 carbon atoms.
  • a volatile silicon oil which may be used in the invention, mention may notably be made of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.
  • R represents an alkyl group comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms and one or more hydrogen atoms of which may be substituted with a fluorine or chlorine atom.
  • oils of general formula (I) mention may be made of: 3-butyl 1,1,1, 3,5, 5, 5 -heptamethyl trisiloxane, 3-propyl 1, 1,1, 3, 5, 5, 5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, and 3-ethyl 1,1, 1,3, 5,5, 5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, corresponding to the oils of formula (I) for which R is a butyl, propyl or ethyl group, respectively.
  • the composition comprises a volatile oil or a mixture of volatile oils, or a volatile liquid fatty phase, having in the composition an evaporation profile such that the mass of evaporated volatile oil(s) after thirty minutes ranges from 1.7 to 370 mg/cm 2 , notably from 2 to 70 mg/cm 2 , and in particular from 2 to 30 mg/cm 2 .
  • the evaporation profile is measured according to the following procedure:
  • the composition comprises at least one volatile oil selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8-16 carbon atoms, the volatile silicone oils having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms and mixtures thereof.
  • composition may also comprise at least one non-volatile oil and notably selected from hydrocarbon and/or silicone and/or fluorinated non-volatile oils.
  • non- volatile hydrocarbon oil mention may notably be made of:
  • oils of plant origin such as fatty acid and glycerol triesters, the fatty acids of which may have various chain lengths from C 4 to C 24 , the latter may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are notably wheat germ, sunflower, grape pip, sesame, maize, apricot, caster, shea, avocado, olive, soya, oils, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, Hokkaido squash, sesame, pumpkin, rapeseed, black currant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candleberry tree, passion fruit, rosehip oil; or further triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names of Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel,
  • esters such as the oils of formula RiCOOR 2 wherein Ri represents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid including 1-40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a notably branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that Ri + R 2 is > 10, such as for example Purcellin oil (ketostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, Ci 2 -CiS alcohol benzoate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethyl-hexyl palmitate, isostearate isostearate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate; and pentaerythri
  • - fatty alcohols liquid at room temperature with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol;
  • the non- volatile silicone oils which may be used in the composition according to the invention may be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), the polydimethylsiloxanes including alkyl or alkoxy groups, pendant and/or at the ends of a silicon chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenylated silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxy silicates.
  • PDMS non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes
  • Fluorinated oils which may be used in the invention are notably fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers, fluorinated silicones as described in document EP-A-847752.
  • the fatty phase may comprise an ester oil, this ester oil may be selected from esters of monocarboxylic acids with monoalcohols and polyalcohols.
  • said ester fits the following formula (I): wherein Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl radical with 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably with 7 to 19 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds, and optionally substituted.
  • R 2 represents a linear or branched alkyl radical with 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably with 3 to 30 carbon atoms and better with 3 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds, and optionally substituted.
  • optionally substituted » is meant that Ri and/or R 2 may bear one or more substituents, for example selected from groups comprising one or more heteroatoms selected from O, N and S, such as amino, amine, alkoxy, hydroxyl groups.
  • the total number of carbon atoms of Ri + R 2 is > 9.
  • Ri may represent the remainder of a fatty acid, preferably a higher, linear or preferably branched remainder, comprising 1 to 40 and better 7 to 19 carbon atoms and R 2 may represent a linear or preferably branched hydrocarbon chain containing 1 to 40, preferably 3 to 30 and better 3 to 20 carbon atoms. Again preferably the number of carbon atoms of Ri + R 2 is > 9.
  • Ri groups are those derived from fatty acids selected from the group formed by acetic, propionic, butyric, caproic, caprylic, pelargonic, capric, undecanoic, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, arachidic, behenic, oleic, linolenic, linoleic, eleostearic, arachidonic, erucic acids, and mixtures thereof.
  • esters are, for example, purcellin oil (ketostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octyl 2-dodecyl stearate, octyl 2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, and heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, for example of fatty alcohols.
  • purcellin oil ketostearyl octanoate
  • isononyl isononanoate isopropyl myristate
  • ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate octyl 2-dodecyl stearate
  • octyl 2-dodecyl erucate ostearyl isostearate
  • esters are selected from compounds of formula (I) above, wherein Ri represents a non-substituted branched or linear alkyl group, optionally comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds, from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 19 carbon atoms, and R 2 represents a non-substituted linear or branched alkyl group optionally comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds, from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, and better from 3 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • Ri represents a non-substituted branched or linear alkyl group, optionally comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds, from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, and better from 3 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • Ri is a non- substituted branched alkyl group with 4 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms and R 2 is a non-substituted branched alkyl group with 5 to 15 carbon atoms, preferably from 9 to 11 carbon atoms.
  • Ri-CO- and R 2 have the same number of carbon atoms and derive from the same radical, preferably a non-substituted branched alkyl group, for example isononyl group, i.e. advantageously, the ester oil molecule is symmetrical.
  • the ester oil will be selected preferably from the following compounds:
  • the liquid fatty phase may account for 5 to 85% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, preferably 10 to 70% and still more preferably 15 to 60 % by weight.
  • the liquid fatty phase may account for 0.1 to 15 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, preferably 0.1 to 10 % by weight.
  • Wax(es) The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one wax.
  • the relevant wax within the scope of the present invention is generally a lipophilic, solid, deformable or non-deformable compound at room temperature (25 0 C), with a reversible solid/liquid state transition, with a melting point above or equal to 30 0 C which may range up to 200 0 C and notably up to 120 0 C.
  • the suitable waxes for the invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 45 0 C, and in particular greater than or equal to 55 0 C.
  • the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999.
  • the melting point of the wax may be measured by means of a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name of « MDSC 2920 » by TA Instruments.
  • the measuring procedure is the following: A sample of 5 mg of wax positioned in a crucible is submitted to a first rise in temperature from -20 0 C to 100 0 C, at a heating rate of 10 °C/minute, and is then cooled down from 100 0 C to -20 0 C at a cooling rate of 10 °C/minute and finally submitted to a second rise in temperature from -20 0 C to 100 0 C at a heating rate of 5 °C/minute. During the second rise in temperature, the variation of the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the wax sample is measured versus temperature.
  • the melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the apex of the peak of the curve representing the variation of the absorbed power difference versus temperature.
  • Waxes capable of being used in the compositions according to the invention are selected from waxes, solid at room temperature, of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin and mixtures thereof.
  • the waxes which may be used in the compositions according to the invention generally have a hardness ranging from 0.5 MPa to 15 MPa, notably above 1 MPa. Hardness is determined by measuring the compressive force at 20 0 C with a texturometer sold under the name of TA-XT2 by Stable Micro Systems Ltd, equipped with a stainless steel cylinder with a diameter of 2 mm moving at the measuring speed of 0.1 mm/s, and penetrating the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm. The measurement procedure is the following: The wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax +
  • the molten wax is cast into a container of a diameter of 25 mm and a depth of 20 mm.
  • the wax is recrystallized at room temperature (25 0 C) for 24 hours so that the surface of the wax is planar and smooth, and the wax is then kept for at least 1 hour at 20 0 C before conducting the measurement of hardness and tackiness.
  • the mobile of the texturometer is moved at the speed of 0.1 mm/s, and then it penetrates the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm. When the mobile has penetrated the wax to a depth of 0.3 mm, the mobile is held fixed for 1 second (corresponding to the relaxation time) and then withdrawn at the speed of 0.5 mm/s.
  • the value of the hardness is the maximum compressive force divided by the surface of the cylinder of the texturometer in contact with the wax.
  • Use may notably be made of hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and China insect waxes; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, Japan wax, berry wax, shellac wax, and sumac wax; montan wax, micro crystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polymethylene, polyethylene, propylene waxes and waxes of their ethylene/propylene copolymers, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers as well as their esters, waxes from the reaction of fatty acids on carbohydrates, such as disaccharides of the sucrose type, such as sucrose polybehenate, marketed by Croda under the name of Cromaderm B.
  • hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and China insect waxes
  • waxes from fatty alcohols selected from saturated or non-saturated fatty alcohols, either branched or not, including 20 to 60 carbon atoms or mixtures comprising at least 30 % of said fatty alcohols, for example with polyethylene, such as for example the wax marketed under reference PERFORMACOL®
  • waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils having linear or branched Cs-C 32 fatty chains Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils having linear or branched Cs-C 32 fatty chains.
  • HEST 2T-4S hydrogenated jojoba oil
  • HEST 2T-4B di-(trimethylol-l,l,l propane) tetrabehenate sold under the name of HEST 2T-4B by HETERENE.
  • Silicone waxes may further be mentioned such as alkyl ou alkoxy-dimethicone waxes having 16 to 45 carbon atoms, fluorinated waxes.
  • wax obtained by hydrogenation of esterified olive oil with stearyl alcohol sold under the name of "PHYTOWAX Olive 18 L 57” or else further the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol sold under the name of "PHYTOWAX castor 16L64 and 22L73", by SOPHIM.
  • Such waxes are described in the application
  • the compositions according to the invention may comprise at least one wax, a so-called tacky wax i.e. having tackiness greater than or equal to 0.7 N.s and a hardness less than or equal to 3.5 MPa.
  • tacky wax By using a tacky wax, it is notably possible to obtain a cosmetic composition which is easily applied on eyelashes, having good adherence to the eyelashes and which leads to the formation of a smooth, homogenous and thickening make-up.
  • the tacky wax may notably have tackiness ranging from 0.7 N.s to 30 N.s, in particular greater than or equal to 1 N.s, notably ranging from 1 N.s to 20 N.s, in particular greater than or equal to 2 N.s, notably ranging from 2 N.s to 10 N.s, and in particular ranging from 2 N.s to 5 N.s.
  • the tackiness of the wax is determined by measuring the change in the force
  • the measurement procedure is the following: The wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax
  • the melted wax is cast into a container with a diameter of 25 mm and a depth of 20 mm.
  • the wax is recystallized at room temperature (25 0 C) for 24 hours so that the surface of the wax is planar and smooth, and the wax is then kept for at least 1 hour at 20 0 C before conducting the measurement of tackiness.
  • the mobile of the texturometer is moved at a speed of 0.5 mm/s, and then penetrates the wax up to a penetration depth of 2 mm. When the mobile has penetrated the wax to the depth of 2 mm, the mobile is held fixed for 1 second (corresponding to the relaxation time) and is then withdrawn at the speed of 0.5 mm/s.
  • Tackiness corresponds to the integral of the force versus time for the portion of the curve corresponding to the negative values of the force (tensile force). The value of tackiness is expressed in N.s.
  • the tacky wax which may be used generally has a hardness less than or equal to 3.5 MPa, in particular ranging from 0.01 MPa to 3.5 MPa, notably ranging from 0.05 MPa to 3 MPa, or even further ranging from 0.1 MPa to 2.5 MPa.
  • Hardness is measured according to the procedure described earlier.
  • a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), may be used alone or as a mixture, in particular a C20-C40 alkyl 12-(12'-hydroxystearyloxy)stearate of formula (II) : wherein m is an integer ranging from 18 to 38, or a mixture of compounds of formula (II).
  • Such a wax is notably sold under the names of "Kester Wax K 82 P®” and “Kester Wax K 80 P®” by KOSTER KEUNEN.
  • the waxes mentioned above generally have an initial melting point below 45 0 C.
  • microcrystalline wax marketed under the reference SP 18 by STRAHL and PITSCH which has a hardness of about 0.46 MPa and a tackiness value of about 1 N.s.
  • the wax(es) may be present as an aqueous wax microdispersion.
  • aqueous wax microdispersion is meant an aqueous dispersion of wax particles, in which the size of said wax particles is less than or equal to about 1 ⁇ m.
  • Wax microdispersions are stable dispersions of wax colloidal particles and are notably described in "Micro emulsions Theory and Practice", L.M. Prince Ed., Academic Press (1977) pages 21-32.
  • these wax microdispersions may be obtained by melting wax in the presence of a surfactant and optionally of a portion of water, and then by gradually adding hot water under stirring. The intermediate formation of an emulsion of the water-in- oil type is observed, followed by phase inversion while finally obtaining a micro-emulsion of the type oil-in-water type. Upon cooling, a stable microdispersion of solid colloidal wax particles is obtained.
  • the wax microdispersions may also be obtained by stirring the mixture of wax, surfactant and water with a stirring means such as ultrasonic waves, a high pressure homogenizer, turbines.
  • the particles of the wax microdispersion preferably have average sizes less than 1 ⁇ m (notably ranging from 0.02 ⁇ m to 0.99 ⁇ m), preferably less than de 0.5 ⁇ m (notably ranging from 0.06 ⁇ m to 0.5 ⁇ m).
  • These particles essentially consist of wax or a mixture of waxes. However they may comprise in a minority proportion, oily and/or pasty fatty additives, a surfactant and/or a usual liposoluble additive/active.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one wax selected from microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, polyethylene waxes, in particular the wax marketed under reference WAX AC 617 by
  • the composition comprises at least one liquid fatty phase comprising at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil selected from isoparaffins having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and notably isododecane, at least one wax selected from polyethylene waxes, and at least one wax selected from fatty alcohol waxes.
  • the composition comprises at least one liquid fatty phase comprising at least one volatile silicon oil selected from volatile cyclic silicon oils, notably those having a viscosity ⁇ 8 centistokes (8 10 "6 m 2 /s), and notably cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, at least one wax selected from polyethylene wax, and at least one wax selected from beeswax.
  • the wax(es) may account for 1 to 50% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, preferably 5 to 40% and still more preferably 7.5 to 35 % by weight.
  • polymer By polymer, is meant compounds including at least two units, preferably at least 3 units, and especially at least 10 recurrent units.
  • semi-crystalline polymer » polymers including a crystallizable portion, a pendant crystallizable chain or a crystallizable sequence in the backbone, and an amorphous portion in the backbone and having a reversible phase transition temperature of the first order, in particular for melting (solid-liquid transition).
  • the amorphous portion of the polymer is in the form of an amorphous sequence;
  • the semi-crystalline polymer is in this case a block copolymer, for example of the two-block, three-block or multi-block, including at least one crystallizable sequence and at least one amorphous sequence.
  • sequence » is generally meant at least 5 identical recurrent units.
  • the crystallizable sequence(s) are then of a chemical nature different from that of the amorphous sequence(s).
  • the semi- crystalline polymer has a melting temperature greater than or equal to 30 0 C (notably ranging from 30 0 C to 80 0 C), preferably ranging from 30 0 C to 60 0 C.
  • This melting temperature is a state transition temperature of the first order. This melting temperature may be measured by any known method and in particular with a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC).
  • DSC differential scanning calorimeter
  • the semi-crystalline polymer(s) to which the invention is applied have a number average molecular mass greater than or equal to 1,000.
  • the semi-crystalline polymers of the composition of the invention have a number average molecular mass Mn ranging from 2,000 to 800,000, preferably from
  • « crystallizable chain of sequence » is meant in the sense of the invention, a chain or sequence which if it were alone, would pass from the amorphous state to the crystalline state reversibly, depending on whether it is above or below the melting temperature.
  • a chain in the sense of the invention is a group of atoms which is pendant or lateral relatively to the backbone of the polymer.
  • a sequence is a group of atoms belonging to the backbone, a group forming one of the recurrent units of the polymer.
  • the « crystallizable pendant chain » may be a chain including at least 6 carbon atoms.
  • the semi-crystalline polymer may be selected from block copolymers including at least one crystallizable sequence and at least one amorphous sequence, homopolymers and copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable lateral chain per recurrent unit, and mixtures thereof. Such polymers are described for example in document EP 1396259.
  • the polymer derives from a monomer with a crystallizable chain selected from saturated C14 a C22 alky(meth)acrylates.
  • the semi-crystalline polymer(s) may account for 1 to 50% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, preferably from 5 to 40% and still more preferably from 7.5 to 35 % by weight.
  • the gelling agents which may be used in the composition according to the invention may be polymeric or molecular organic or mineral lipophilic gelling agents.
  • a mineral lipophilic gelling agent As a mineral lipophilic gelling agent, mention may be made of optionally modified clays such as hectorites modified by a C10-C22 fatty acid ammonium chloride, such as the hectorite modified by di-stearyl di-methyl ammonium chloride, like for example the one marketed under the name of Bentone 38V ® by ELEMENTIS.
  • optionally modified clays such as hectorites modified by a C10-C22 fatty acid ammonium chloride, such as the hectorite modified by di-stearyl di-methyl ammonium chloride, like for example the one marketed under the name of Bentone 38V ® by ELEMENTIS.
  • pyrogenated silica optionally treated so as to be hydrophobic at the surface, the particle size of which is less than 1 ⁇ m. It is actually possible to chemically modify the surface of silica, by a chemical reaction generating a reduction in the number of silanol groups present at the surface of the silica.
  • Silanol groups may notably be substituted with hydrophobic groups: hydrophobic silica is then obtained.
  • the hydrophobic groups may be:
  • treated silicas are designated as « Silica silylate » according to CTFA (6 th edition, 1995). They are for example marketed under references Aerosil R812 ® by DEGUSSA, CAB-O-SIL TS-530 ® by CABOT, dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are notably obtained by treating pyrogenated silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Thereby treated silicas are designated as « Silica dimethyl silylate » according to CTFA (6 th edition, 1995).
  • Aerosil R972 ® and Aerosil R974 ® by DEGUSSA
  • CAB-O-SIL TS-610 ® and CAB-O-SIL TS-720 ® by CABOT.
  • the hydrophobic pyrogenated silica in particular has a particle size which may be from nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm.
  • non-polymeric molecular organic gelling agents also called organo-gelling agents
  • organo-gelling agents associated with a liquid fatty phase (which may be the liquid fatty phase of the composition according to the invention), which are compounds for which the molecules are capable of establishing between them physical interactions leading to self-aggregation of the molecules with formation of a supra-molecular 3D lattice which is responsible for the gelling of the liquid fatty phase.
  • the supra-molecular lattice may result from the formation of a fibril lattice (due to stacks or aggregations of organo-gelling agent molecules), immobilizing the molecules of the liquid fatty phase.
  • the capacity of forming this fibril lattice and therefore of gelling depends on the nature (or chemical class) or the organo-gelling agent, on the nature of the substituents borne by its molecules for a given chemical class and on the nature of the liquid fatty phase.
  • each molecule of an organogelling agent may establish several types of physical interactions with a neighboring molecule.
  • the molecules of the organogelling agents according to the invention include at least one group capable of establishing hydrogen bonds and better at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen bonds, at least one aromatic ring and better at least two aromatic rings, at least one or more ethylenically unsaturated bonds, and/or at least one or more asymmetrical carbons.
  • the groups capable of producing hydrogen bonds are selected from hydroxyl, carbonyl, amine, carboxylic acid, amide, urea, benzyl groups and combinations thereof.
  • the organo-gelling agent(s) are soluble in the liquid fatty phase after heating until a transparent homogenous liquid phase is obtained. They may be solid or liquid at room temperature and under atmospheric pressure.
  • the molecular organo-gelling agents which may be used in the composition according to the invention are notably those described in document « Specialist Surfactants » edited by D. Robb in 1997, p.209-263, Chapter 8 of P. Terech, European applications EP-A- 1068854 and EP-A- 1086945 or further in the application WO-A-02/47031.
  • amides of carboxylic acids in particular tri-carboxylic acids such as cyclohexanetricarboxamides (see European patent application EP-A- 1068854), diamides having hydrocarbon chains each containing from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, for example from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, said chains being non-substituted or substituted with at least one substituent selected from ester, urea and fluoro groups (see application EP-A- 1086945) and notably diamides resulting from the reaction of diaminocyclohexane, in particular diaminocyclohexane in the trans form, and of an acid chloride, such as for example N,N'-bis (dodecanoyl)-l,2- diaminocyclohexane, the amides of N-acylamino acids such as diamides resulting from the action of N-acylamino acid with amines including 1 to 22
  • the polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are for example: partly or totally cross-linked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes, with a three-dimensional structure, like those marketed under the names of KSG6 ® , KSG16 ® and KSGl 8 ® by SHIN-ETSU, Trefil E-505C ® and Trefil E-506C ® by DOW-CORNING, Gransil SR-CYC ® , SR DMF 10 ® , SR-DC556 ® , SR 5CYC gel ® , SR DMF 10 gel ® and SR DC 556 gel ® by GRANT INDUSTRIES, SF 1204 ® and JK 113 ® by GENERAL ELECTRIC; the ethylcellulose such as the one sold under the name of Ethocel ® by DOW CHEMICAL; polycondensates of the polyamide type resulting from the condensation between ( ⁇ ) at least one acid selected from dicarboxylic acids comprising at
  • diblock copolymer preferably hydrogenated, mention may be made of copolymers of styrene-ethylene/propylene, styrene-ethylene/butadiene copolymers.
  • Diblock polymers are notably sold under the name of Kraton® G 170 IE by Kraton Polymers.
  • triblock copolymer preferably hydrogenated, mention may be made of copolymers of styrene-ethylene/propylene-styrene, copolymers of styrene- ethylene/butadiene-styrene, copolymers of styrene-isoprene-styrene, copolymers of
  • Triblock polymers are notably sold under the names of Kraton G1650, Kraton ® G1652, Kraton ® DI lOl, Kraton ® Dl 102, Kraton ® Dl 160 by Kraton Polymers.
  • a mixture of hydrogenated triblock styrene-butylene/ethylene-styrene copolymer and of a hydrogenated star ethylene-propylene-styrene polymer may also be used, such a mixture being notably in isododecane.
  • Such mixtures are for example sold by PENRECO under the trade names of VERSAGEL ® M5960 and VERSAGEL ® M5670.
  • esters of dextrin and of a fatty acid such as dextrin palmitates, notably such as those marketed under the names of Rheopearl TL ® or Rheopearl KL ® by CHIBA FLOUR.
  • the lipophilic gelling agent(s) may account for 1 to 50% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, preferably from 5 to 40% and still more preferably from 7.5 to 35 % by weight.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise at least one pasty compound.
  • « pasty » in the sense of the present invention is meant a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid/liquid state transition and including a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at the temperature of 23°C.
  • the pasty compound preferably has hardness at 20 0 C ranging from 0.001 to 0.5 MPa, preferably from 0.002 to 0.4 MPa.
  • the hardness is measured according to a method with penetration of a probe in a compound sample and in particular by means of a texture analyzer (for example TA-
  • the hardness measurement is carried out at 20 0 C at the centre of 5 samples.
  • the cylinder is introduced into each sample with a preliminary speed of 1 mm/s and then with a measuring speed of 0.1 mm/s, the penetration depth being 0.3 mm.
  • the measured value of the hardness is that of the peak maximum.
  • This pasty compound further is at the temperature of 23 0 C, in the form of a liquid fraction and of a solid fraction.
  • the initial melting temperature of the pasty compound is less than 23 0 C.
  • 23°C accounts for 23 to 97 % by weight of the compound.
  • This liquid fraction at 23°C preferably accounts for between 40 and 85 % by weight of the compound.
  • the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23°C is equal to the ratio of the consumed melting enthalpy at 23°C over the melting enthalpy of the pasty compound.
  • the melting enthalpy of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound for passing from the solid state to the liquid state.
  • the pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when the whole of its mass is in solid form.
  • the pasty compound is said to be in the liquid state when the whole of its mass is in liquid form.
  • the melting enthalpy of the pasty compound is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained by means of a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold under the name of MDSC 2920 by TA Instrument, with a rise in temperature of 5 or 10 0 C per minute, according to the ISO 11357-3:1999 standard.
  • the melting enthalpy of the pasty compound is the amount of energy required for having the compound pass from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.
  • the melting enthalpy consumed at 23 0 C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample in order to pass from the solid state to the state which it has at 23 0 C consisting of a liquid fraction and of a solid fraction.
  • the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 0 C preferably accounts for 40 to 100 % by weight of the compound, preferably for 50 to 100 %, preferably 80 to 100 %, still preferably for 90 to 100 % by weight of the compound.
  • the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32 0 C.
  • the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32°C is equal to the ratio of the consumed melting enthalpy at 32°C over the melting enthalpy of the pasty compound.
  • the melting enthalpy consumed at 32°C is calculated in the same way as the melting enthalpy consumed at 23 0 C.
  • the pasty compound is preferably selected from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin. A pasty compound may be obtained by synthesis starting with products of plant origin.
  • lanolin and its derivatives such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolins, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolate, oxypropylenated lanolins, polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, such as polydimethysiloxanes with high molecular masses, polydimethysiloxanes with side chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type having 8-24 carbon atoms, notably stearyl dimethicones, , polymeric or non-polymeric fluorinated compounds vinyl polymers, notably: • olefin homopolymers
  • the pasty compound is preferably a polymer, notably a hydrocarbon polymer.
  • a preferrred silicone and fluorinated pasty compound is polymethyl trifluoropropryl methylalkyl dimethylsiloxane, made under the name of X22-1088 by SHIN ETSU.
  • the composition advantageously comprises a compatibilization agent such as short chain esters like isodecyl neopentanoate.
  • a compatibilization agent such as short chain esters like isodecyl neopentanoate.
  • the copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide with long chain C6-C30 alkylene oxides are particularly preferred, further preferably such that the weight ratio of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide with alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30.
  • copolymers such that the long chain alkylene oxides are positioned as blocks with an average molecular weight from 1,000 to 10,000, for example a block copolymer of polyoxyethylene/polydodecyl glycol, such as the ethers of dodecanediol (22 mol) and polyethylene glycol (45 EO) marketed under the brand of ELFACOS ST9 by Akzo Nobel.
  • polyoxyethylene/polydodecyl glycol such as the ethers of dodecanediol (22 mol) and polyethylene glycol (45 EO) marketed under the brand of ELFACOS ST9 by Akzo Nobel.
  • esters are notably preferred
  • esters of an oligomeric glycerol notably esters of diglycerol, in particular condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which a portion of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, and isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, notably reflecting those marketed under the brand Softisan 649 by Sasol
  • polyesters resulting from poly condensation between a dicarboxylic acid and a linear or branched C4-C50 carboxylic polyacid and a diol or a
  • the aliphatic carboxylic acid comprises 4 to 30 and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. It is preferably selected from hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, octanoic acid, ethyl-2-hexanoic acid, nonanoic acid, decanoic acid, undecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, tridecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, pentadecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, hexyldecanoic acid, heptadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, isostearic acid, nonadecanoic acid, eicosanoic acid, isoarachidic acid, octyldodecanoic acid, heneicosanoic acid, docosanoic acid, and mixtures thereof.
  • the aliphatic carboxylic acid is preferably branched.
  • the aliphatic hydroxyl carboxylic acid ester is advantageously derived from a hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid including from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 34 carbon atoms and better from 12 to 28 carbon atoms and from 1 to 20 hydroxyl groups, preferably from 1 to 10 hydroxyl groups and better from 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups.
  • the ester of aliphatic hydroxyl carboxylic acid is selected from: a) partial or total esters of saturated linear monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids; b) partial or total esters of unsaturated monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids; c) partial or total esters of saturated monohydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acids; d) partial or total esters of unsaturated polyhydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acids; e) partial or total esters Of C 2 -Ci 6 aliphatic polyols having reacted with a mono- or poly-hydroxylated aliphatic mono- or poly-carboxylic acid, and mixtures thereof.
  • the ester aliphatic esters are advantageously selected from:
  • the pasty compound may also be of plant origin.
  • isomerized jojoba oil such as trans -isomQ ⁇ zcd partly hydrogenated jojoba oil made or marketed by Desert Whale under the trade name reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, orange wax such as for example, the one which is marketed under reference Orange Peel Wax by Koster Keunen, shea butter, partly hydrogenated olive oil such as for example the compound marketed under reference Beurrolive by Soliance, cocoa butter, mango oil, such as for example Lipex 302 from Aarhuskarlshamn.
  • the pasty compound preferably accounts for 0.5 to 85 %, better 1 to 60 %, better 2 to 30 % and still better 3 to 15 % by weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise an aqueous phase which may essentially consist of water; it may also comprise a mixture of water and of a solvent miscible with water (a water miscibility greater than 50% at 25 0 C) such as lower mono-alcohols having 1-5 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, C3-C4 ketones, en C2-C4 aldehydes and mixtures thereof.
  • a solvent miscible with water such as lower mono-alcohols having 1-5 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, C3-C4 ketones, en C2-C4 aldehydes and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition comprises an aqueous phase with a content of less than 10%, preferably 5% by weight, and better less than 2% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises an aqueous phase with a content ranging from 5% to 95% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 10 % to 80 % by weight, and preferentially ranging from 15 % to 60 % by weight.
  • composition according to the invention may contain emulsifying surfactants notably present in a proportion ranging from 0.01 to 30 % by weight based on the total weight of the composition, better from 1 to 15 % and better from 2 to 10 %.
  • an emulsifier is generally used, suitably selected for obtaining an oil-in-water emulsion.
  • an emulsifier having at 25°C an HLB (hydrophilic- lipophilic balance) in the sense of GRIFFIN, greater than or equal to 8.
  • surfactants may be selected from non-ionic, anionic, cationic, amphoteric surfactants and their combinations.
  • the surfactants preferentially used in the composition according to the invention are selected from: a) non-ionic surfactants with an HLB greater than or equal to 8 at 25°C, used alone or as a mixture; mention may notably be made of: esters and ethers of oses such as the mixture of cetylstearyl glucoside and cetyl and stearyl alcohols like Montanov 68 from Seppic; oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethers (which may include 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated groups) of glycerol; oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethers (which may include from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated groups) of fatty alcohols (notably Cs-C 24 alcohols and preferably Ci 2 -C is alcohols) such as the oxyethylenated ether of cetearyl
  • the EO/PO polycondensates are more particularly copolymers consisting in polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol blocks, such as for example polyethylene glycol/polypropylene/glycol/po Iy ethylene glycol tri-block polycondensates.
  • These tri-block polycondensates for example have the following chemical structure: H-(O-CH 2 -CH 2 ) a -(O-CH(CH 3 )-CH 2 ) b -(O-CH 2 -CH 2 ) a -OH, formula wherein a ranges from 2 to 120 and b ranges from 1 to 100.
  • the EO/PO poly condensate preferably has an average weight molecular weight ranging from 1,000 to 15,000, and better from 2,000 to 13,000.
  • said EO/PO polycondensate has a cloud temperature at 10 g/L in distilled water, greater than or equal to 20 0 C, preferably greater than or equal to 60 0 C.
  • the cloud temperature is measured according to the ISO 1065 standard.
  • polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol tri-block poly condensates sold under the names of SYNPERONIC ® such as SYNPERONIC PE/ L44 ® and SYNPERONIC PE/F127 ® by ICI.
  • non-ionic surfactants with HLB of less than 8 at 25°C optionally associated with one or more non- ionic surfactants with an HLB above 8 at 25°C, as mentioned above, such as: esters and ethers of oses such as sucrose stearate, sucrose cocoate, sorbitan stearate and their mixtures such as Arlatone 2121 ® marketed by ICI; oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethers (which may include 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated groups) of fatty alcohols (notably Cs-C 24 alcohols and preferably Ci 2 -C is alcohols) such as the oxyethylenated ether of stearyl alcohol with two oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name "Steareth-2");
  • esters of fatty acids (notable of Cs-C 24 acids, and preferably Ci 6 -C 22 acids) and of polyol, notably glycerol or sorbitol, such as glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate such as the product sold under the name TEGIN M ® from GOLDSCHMIDT, glyceryl laurate such as the product sold under the name of IMWITOR 312 ® by HULS, polyglyceryl-2 stearate, sorbitan tristearate, glyceryl ricinoleate; lecithins, such as soya bean lecithins, (like Emulmetik 100 J from Cargill, or Biophilic H from Lucas Meyer); - the cyclomethicone/dimethicone copolyol mixture sold under the name of
  • anionic surfactants such as:
  • proline derivatives such as sodium palmitoyl proline (Sepicalm VG from Seppic), or the mixture of sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, magnesium palmitoyl glutamate, palmitic acid and palmitoyl proline (Sepifeel One from Seppic); lactylates, such as sodium stearoyl lactylate (Akoline SL from Karlshamns AB); sarcosinates, such as sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate (Nikko l sarcosinate PN) or the mixture of stearoyl sarcosine et myristoyl sarcosine 75/25 (Crodasin SM from Croda) ; sulfonates, such as sodium secondary C 14 - 17 alkyl sulfonate (Hostapur SAS 60 from Clariant); glycinates, such as sodium cocoyl glycinate (Amilite GCS-
  • composition according to the invention may also contain one or more amphoteric surfactants such as N-acyl-aminoacids such as N-alkyl-aminoacetates and disodium cocoamphodiacetate and amine oxides such as stearamine oxide or further silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols phosphates such as the one sold under the name of PECOSIL PS 100 ® by PHOENIX CHEMICAL.
  • the usable surfactant may also be a polymeric surfactant, notably a thermogelling polymer.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise a hydrophilic gelling agent.
  • Hydrophic gelling agents which may be used in the compositions according to the invention may be selected from: homo- or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids or their salts and their esters and in particular the products sold under the names of VERSICOL F ® or VERSICOL K ® by ALLIED COLLOID, UTRAHOLD 8 ® by CIBA-GEIGY, polyacrylic acids of the SYNTHALEN K type, copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide sold as their sodium salt under the names of RETEN ® by HERCULES, sodium polymethacrylate sold under the name of DARVAN N°7 ® by VANDERBILT, sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids sold under the name of HYDAGEN F ® by HENKEL, polyacrylic acid/alkyl acrylate copolymers of the PEMULEN type, AMPS (polyacrylamidomethyl propane-sulfonic acid partly neutralized with ammonia and highly crosslinked) marketed by CL
  • SEPPIC et polyoxyethylenated AMPS/alkyl methacrylate (either cross-linked or not), and mixtures thereof.
  • the water-soluble film-forming polymers mentioned hereinbelow may also play the role of a hydrophilic gelling agent.
  • the hydrophilic gelling agent may also be present in the composition according to the invention as a dry material content ranging from 0.01 % to 30 % by weight, preferably from 0.5 % to 20 % by weight, better from 1 % to 15 % by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
  • Film- forming polymer
  • the composition according to the invention may comprise according to a particular embodiment, at least one film-forming polymer.
  • the film- forming polymer may be present in the composition according to the invention with a dry material content (or of active materials) ranging from 0.1 % to 30 % by weight based on the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5 % to 20 % by weight, and better from 1 % to 15 % by weight.
  • « film-forming polymer » is meant a polymer capable of forming alone in the presence of an auxiliary « filmification » agent, a macroscopically continuous film adherent to the eyelashes, and preferably a cohesive film, or still better a film, the cohesion and mechanical properties of which are such that said film may be isolated and handled individually, for example when said film is made by casting on an anti-adhesive surface such as a teflon or silicone surface.
  • film-forming polymers which may be used in the composition of the present invention
  • synthetic polymers may be mentioned, of the radical type or of the polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof.
  • radical film-forming polymer a polymer obtained by polymerization of notably ethylenically unsaturated monomers, each monomer being capable of homopolymerization (unlike polycondensates).
  • Film- forming polymers of the radical type may notably be vinyl polymers or copolymers, notably acrylic polymers.
  • Film-forming vinyl polymers may result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acid group and/or esters of these acid monomers and/or amides of these acid monomers.
  • ⁇ , ⁇ -ethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acids may be used, such as acrylic acid, (meth)acrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid. Use is preferably made of (meth)acrylic acid and crotonic acid, and more preferentially (meth)acrylic acid.
  • (meth)acrylic acid further called (meth)acrylates
  • alkyl (meth)acrylates in particular C1-C30, preferably C1-C20 alkyl (meth)acrylates, aryl (meth)acrylates, in particular C 6 -CiO aryl (meth)acrylates, hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates, in particular C 2 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates.
  • alkyl (meth)acrylates mention may be made of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, ethyl-2-hexyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate, cyclohexyl methacrylate.
  • hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates mention may be made of hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.
  • aryl (meth)acrylates mention may be made of benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate.
  • esters of (meth)acrylic acid are alkyl (meth)acrylates.
  • the alkyl group of the esters may be either fluorinated or perfluorinated, i.e. part or all the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted with fluorine atoms.
  • amides of acid monomers mention may for example be made of (meth)acrylamide and notably N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides, in particular C 2 -C 12 alkyl (meth)acrylamides.
  • N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides mention may be made of N-ethyl acrylamide, N-t-butyl acrylamide, N-t-octyl acrylamide and N-undecylacrylamide.
  • Film-forming vinyl polymers may also result from homopolymerization or copolymerization of monomers selected from vinyl esters and styrene monomers.
  • these monomers may be polymerized with acid monomers and/or their esters and/or their amides, as those mentioned earlier.
  • vinyl esters mention may be made of vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl t-butyl benzoate.
  • styrene monomers mention may be made of styrene and alpha-methyl styrene.
  • film-forming poly condensates mention may be made of polyurethanes, polyesters, polyester amides, polyamides, and epoxy ester resins, polyureas.
  • Polyurethanes may be selected from anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, acrylic polyurethanes, poly-urethane-polyvinylpyrrolidones, polyester- polyurethanes, polyether-polyurethanes, polyureas, polyurea-polyurethanes, and mixtures thereof.
  • the polyesters may be obtained in a known way by poly condensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, notably diols.
  • the dicarboxylic acid may be aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic. Mention may for example be made of such acids: oxalic acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, 2,2-dimethylglutaric acid, azelaic aicd, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid, 1,3-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 5-norbornane-dicarboxylic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2,5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid.
  • dicarboxylic acid monomers may be used alone or as a combination of at least two dicarboxylic acid monomers.
  • phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid are preferentially selected.
  • the diol may be selected from aliphatic, alicyclic, aromatic diols.
  • a diol is used, selected from: ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, cyclohexane dimethanol, 4-butanediol.
  • glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, trimethylol propane may be used.
  • the amide polyesters may be obtained in an analogous way to polyesters, by polycondensation of diacids, with diamines of amino alcohols.
  • diamine ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, meta- or /? ⁇ ra-phenylenediamine may be used.
  • amino alcohol monoethanolamine may be used.
  • the polyester may further comprise at least one monomer bearing at least one -SO 3 M group, with M representing a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion NH 4 + or a metal ion, such as for example a Na + , Li + , K + , Mg 2+ , Ca 2+ , Cu 2+ , Fe 2+ , Fe 3+ ion.
  • M representing a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion NH 4 + or a metal ion, such as for example a Na + , Li + , K + , Mg 2+ , Ca 2+ , Cu 2+ , Fe 2+ , Fe 3+ ion.
  • a bifunctional aromatic monomer including such a -SO 3 M group may notably be used.
  • the aromatic ring of the bifunctional aromatic monomer further bearing a -SO3M group as described above may be selected for example from benzene, naphthalene, anthracene, diphenyl, oxydiphenyl, sulfonyldiphenyl, methylenediphenyl rings.
  • a bifunctional aromatic monomer further bearing a -SO 3 M group mention may be made of sulfo isophthalic acid, sulfoterephthalic acid, sulfophthalic acid, 4-sulfonaphthalene-2,7-dicarboxylique acid.
  • Copolymers based on isophthalate/sulfoisophthalate are preferably used and more particularly copolymers obtained by condensation of di-ethyleneglycol, cyclohexane di-methanol, isophthalic acid, sulfo isophthalic acid.
  • Polymers of natural origin may be selected from shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammar gums, elemi gums or resins, copal resins, cellulose polymers and mixtures thereof
  • the film-forming polymer may be a water-soluble polymer and may be present in an aqueous phase of the composition; the polymer is therefore solubilized in the aqueous phase of the composition.
  • the film-forming polymer may be a polymer solubilized in a liquid fatty phase comprising organic oils or solvents such as those described earlier (it is then stated that the film-forming polymer is a liposoluble polymer).
  • the liquid fatty phase comprises a volatile oil, optionally mixed with a non- volatile oil, the oils may be selected from the oils mentioned earlier.
  • liposoluble polymer As an example of liposoluble polymer, mention may be made of copolymers of vinyl ester (the vinyl group being directly linked to the oxygen atom of the ester group and the vinyl ester having a linear or branched saturated hydrocarbon radical with 1 to 19 carbon atoms, bound to the carbonyl of the ester group) and of at least another monomer which may be a vinyl ester (different from the vinyl ester already present), an ⁇ -olefm (having 8-20 carbon atoms), an alkylvinylether (the alkyl group of which includes 2-18 carbon atoms), or an allyl or methallyl ester (having a linear or branched saturated hydrocarbon radical, with 1-19 carbon atoms, bound to the carbonyl of the ester group).
  • vinyl ester the vinyl group being directly linked to the oxygen atom of the ester group and the vinyl ester having a linear or branched saturated hydrocarbon radical with 1 to 19 carbon atoms, bound to the carbonyl of the ester
  • copolymers may be cross-linked by means of cross-linking agents which may be of the vinyl type or of the allyl or methallyl type, such as tetraallyloxy ethane, divinylbenzene, divinyl octanedioate, divinyl dodecanedioate, and divinyl octadecanedioate.
  • cross-linking agents may be of the vinyl type or of the allyl or methallyl type, such as tetraallyloxy ethane, divinylbenzene, divinyl octanedioate, divinyl dodecanedioate, and divinyl octadecanedioate.
  • copolymers examples include vinyl acetate/allyl stearate, vinyl acetate/vinyl laurate, vinyl acetate/vinyl stearate, vinyl acetate/octadecene, vinyl acetate/octadecylvinylether, vinyl propionate/allyl laurate, vinyl propionate/vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate/octadecene-1, vinyl acetate/dodecene-1, vinyl stearate/ethylvinylether, vinyl propionate/cetylvinylether, vinyl stearate/allyl acetate, vinyl dimethyl-2,2-octanoate/vinyl laurate, allyldimethyl-2,2-pentanoate/vinyl laurate, vinyl dimethyl propionate/vinyl stearate, allyl dimethyl propionate/vinyl stearate, allyl dimethyl propionate/vinyl
  • liposoluble film-forming polymers mention may also be made of liposoluble copolymers, and in particular those resulting from copolymerization of vinyl esters having 9 to 22 carbon atoms or of alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, the alkyl radicals having 10 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • Such liposoluble copolymers may be selected from copolymers of polyvinyl stearate, of polyvinyl stearate cross-linked with divinyl benzene, of diallylether or diallylphthalate, copolymers of stearyl poly(meth)acrylate, polyvinyl laurate, polylauryl (meth)acrylate, these poly(meth)acrylates may be cross-linked with ethyleneglycol or tetraethy lenegly co 1 dimethacrylate .
  • the liposoluble copolymers defined earlier are known and notably described in application FR-A-2232303; they may have an average weight molecular weight ranging from 2,000 to 500,000 and preferably from 4,000 to 200,000.
  • liposoluble film-forming polymers which may be used in the invesntion, mention may also be made of polyalkylenes and notably copolymers of C2-C20 alkenes, such as polybutene, alkylcelluloses with a saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C 1 -C 8 alkyl radical such as ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and notably copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of C2-C40 and better C3-C20 alkenes.
  • polyalkylenes and notably copolymers of C2-C20 alkenes, such as polybutene, alkylcelluloses with a saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C 1 -C 8 alkyl radical such as ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and notably copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of C2-C40 and better C3
  • a VP copolymer which may be used in the invention, mention may be made of the copolymer of VP/vinyl acetate, VP/ethyl methacrylate, butylated polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), VP/ethylmethacrylate/methacrylic acid, VP/eicosene, VP/hexadecene, VP/triacontene, VP/styrene, VP/acrylic acid/lauryl methacrylate.
  • PVP polyvinylpyrrolidone
  • silicone resins generally soluble or swellable in silicone oils, which are polymers of cross-linked polyorganosiloxanes.
  • the nomenclature of silicone resins is known as « MDTQ » the resin being described according to different siloxane monomeric units which it comprises, each of the letters « MDTQ » characterizing a unit type.
  • siloxysilicate resins mention may be made of trimethylsiloxysilicate resins (TMS) such as those marketed under reference SRlOOO by General Electric or under reference TMS 803 by Wacker. Mention may further be made of trimethylsiloxysilicate resins marketed in a solvent such as cyclomethicone, sold under the name of « KF-7312J » by Shin-Etsu, « DC 749 » « DC 593 » by Dow Corning.
  • TMS trimethylsiloxysilicate resins
  • solvent such as cyclomethicone
  • the film- forming polymer is a film-forming linear block ethylene polymer, which preferably comprises at least one first block and at least one second block having different glassy transition temperatures (Tg), said first and second blocks being linked together by an intermediate block comprising at least one constitutive monomer of the first block and at least one constitutive monomer of the second block.
  • Tg glassy transition temperatures
  • the first and second blocks of the block polymer are incompatible with each other.
  • the film-forming polymer may also be present in the composition as dispersed particles in an aqueous phase or in a non-aqueous solvent phase generally known as latex or pseudo-latex.
  • the preparation techniques of these dispersions are well-known to one skilled in the art.
  • Neocryl XK-90 ® As an aqueous dispersion of film- forming polymer, it is possible to use acrylic dispersions sold under the names of Neocryl XK-90 ® , Neocryl A- 1070 ® , Neocryl A-
  • Neocryl BT-62 ® Neocryl A- 1079 ® et Neocryl A-523 ® by AVECI A-NEORESINS,
  • non-aqueous dispersions of film- forming polymer mention may be made of acrylic dispersions in isododecane such as Mexomere PAP ® from CHIMEX, dispersions of particles of grafted ethylene polymer, preferably an acrylic polymer, in a liquid fatty phase, the ethylene polymer being advantageously dispersed in the absence of additional stabilizer at the surface of the particles, as notably described in document WO 04/055081.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise a plasticizer promoting the formation of a film with the film-forming polymer.
  • a plasticizer may be selected from all the compounds known to one skilled in the art as being capable of fulfilling the sought function.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one coloring material such as powdery materials, liposoluble coloring agents, hydrosoluble coloring agents.
  • the powdery coloring materials may be selected from pigments and mothers of pearls.
  • the pigments may be white or colored, mineral and/or organic, coated or not.
  • mineral pigments mention may be made of titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium, zinc or cerium oxides, as well as iron or chromium oxides manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrates and ferric blue.
  • organic pigments mention may be made of carbon black, pigments of the D & C type, and lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminium.
  • the mothers of pearls may be selected from white iridescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, colored iridescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with notably ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type, as well as iridescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
  • white iridescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride
  • colored iridescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with notably ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type, as well as iridescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
  • the liposoluble coloring agents are for example Sudan red, D&C Red 17, D&C Green 6, ⁇ -carotene, soya bean oil, Sudan brown, D&C Yellow 11, D&C Violet 2, D&C Orange 5, quinoline yellow, annatto.
  • coloring materials may be present with a content ranging from 0.01 to 30 % by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the invention may further comprise one filler.
  • Fillers may be selected from those well-known to one skilled in the art and currently used in cosmetic compositions.
  • the fillers may be mineral or organic, lamellar or spherical. Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide powders such as Nylon ® marketed under the name of Orgasol ® by Atochem, powders of poly- ⁇ -alanine and of polyethylene, the powders of tetrafluoro ethylene polymers such as Teflon ® , lauroyl- lysine, starch, boron nitride, expansed polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene/acrylonitrile chloride like those marketed under the name of Expancel ® by Nobel Industrie, acrylic powders such as those marketed under the name of Polytrap ® by Dow Corning, polymethyl methacrylate particles and silicone resin microbeads (Tospearls ® from Toshiba, for example), precipitated calcium
  • thermo-expansible particles such as non-expansed microspheres of vinylidene chloride/ acrylonitrile/methylmethacrylate copolymer or acrylonitrile homopolymer copolymer may also be used, such as for example those marketed under references Expancel ® 820 DU 40 and Expancel ® 007WUby AKZO NOBEL, respectively.
  • the fillers may account for 0.1 to 25 %, in particular for 1 to 20 % by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the coloring agent or the filler may further be present as a « particle paste sau
  • the composition according to the invention when it contains solid particles at room temperature, may be prepared by introducing them into the composition as a colloidal dispersion also called « particle paste » as described in application WO 02/39961, the contents of which is incorporated by reference into the present application.
  • colloidal dispersion or « particle paste » is meant in the sense of the invention a concentrated colloidal dispersion of particles either coated or not in a continuous medium, stabilized with a dispersant or optionally without any dispersant.
  • These particles may be selected from pigments, mothers of pearls, solid fillers and mixtures thereof. These particles may be of any shape notably of a spherical or elongated shape, like fibers. They are insoluble in the medium.
  • the dispersant is used for protecting the dispersed particles against their agglomeration or flocculation.
  • the dispersant concentration generally used for stabilizing a colloidal dispersion is from 0.3 to 5 mg/m 2 , preferably from 0.5 to 4 mg/m 2 , of particle surface.
  • This dispersant may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of several of them, bearing one or more functionalities having strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, they may physically or chemically adhere to the surface of the pigments. These dispersants further have at least one functional group compatible with or soluble in the continuous medium.
  • esters of hydroxyl-12- stearic acid in particular, and of a Cs-C 2 O fatty acid and of a polyol such as glycerol, diglycerol, such as the stearate of poly(12-hydroxystearic) acid with a molecular weight of about 750g/mol are used, such as the one sold under the name of Solsperse 21 000 by Avecia, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (CTFA name) sold under the reference of Dehymyls PGPH by Henkel or further polyhydroxystearic acid like the one sold under reference Arlacel PlOO by Uniqema and mixtures thereof.
  • dispersant which may be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made of quaternary ammonium derivatives of poly-condensed fatty acids such as Solsperse 17 000 sold by Avecia, mixtures of poly dimethylsiloxane/oxypropylene such as those sold by Dow Corning under references DC2-5185, DC2-5225 C.
  • Polydihydroxystearic acid and esters of hydroxy- 12-stearic acid are preferably intended for a hydrocarbon or fluorinated medium, while mixtures of oxyethylenated/oxypropylenated dimethylsiloxane are preferably intended for a silicone medium.
  • the colloidal dispersion is a suspension of particles of generally micron size
  • the volume fraction of particles in a concentrated dispersion is from 20 % to 40 %, preferably greater than 30 %, which corresponds to a weight content which may range up to 70% depending on the density of the particles.
  • the particles dispersed in the medium may consist of mineral or organic particles or of their mixtures as those described hereafter.
  • the continuous medium of the paste may be any medium and contain any solvent or liquid fat and mixtures thereof.
  • the liquid medium of the particle paste is one of the liquid fats or oils, the use of which is desired in the composition, thereby being part of the liquid fatty phase.
  • the « particle paste » or colloidal dispersion is a « pigment paste » containing a colloidal dispersion of colored, coated or non-coated particles. These colored particles are pigments, mothers of pearls, or a mixture of pigments and/or mother ofpearls.
  • the colloidal dispersion accounts for 0.5 to 30 % by weight of the composition, better for 2 to 20 % and even better 2 to 15 %.
  • composition of the invention may further comprise any additive usually used in cosmetics such as antioxidants, preservatives, fibers, perfumes, neutralizers, thickeners, vitamins, moisturizers, in particular solar filters, coalescence agents, plasticizers, and mixtures thereof
  • any additive usually used in cosmetics such as antioxidants, preservatives, fibers, perfumes, neutralizers, thickeners, vitamins, moisturizers, in particular solar filters, coalescence agents, plasticizers, and mixtures thereof
  • any additive usually used in cosmetics such as antioxidants, preservatives, fibers, perfumes, neutralizers, thickeners, vitamins, moisturizers, in particular solar filters, coalescence agents, plasticizers, and mixtures thereof
  • additives usually used in cosmetics
  • the optional complementary additives and/or their amount are selected in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or substantially not altered by the contemplated adjunction.
  • compositions according to the invention may be prepared according to methods known to one skilled in the art.
  • the invention will be better understood upon reading the detailed description which follows of exemplary non-limiting embodiments thereof, and upon examining the appended drawing, wherein:
  • FIGs. 1 to 3 are block diagrams illustrating exemplary methods according to the invention.
  • Fig. 4 schematically illustrates an exemplary device for applying the invention
  • Fig. 5 is a top view along V of Fig. 4,
  • Fig. 6 illustrates the heating-up of the composition with the heating device of Fig. 4,
  • Fig. 7 illustrates a conditioning and application device incorporating a heating device
  • Fig. 8 is an axial, schematic and partial section of an alternative embodiment of the heating device
  • - Fig. 9 illustrates in a perspective view another exemplary embodiment of a conditioning and application device incorporating a heating device
  • Fig. 10 illustrates the device of Fig. 9 after removing the closure cap
  • Fig. 11 is a top view of the device of Fig. 10,
  • Fig. 12 is a view analogous to Fig. 10, the composition block having been taken out
  • Fig. 13 illustrates in an elevational view, another exemplary conditioning and application device integrating a heating device
  • Fig. 14 schematically illustrates, partly as an axial sectional view, the heating device of Fig. 13, - Fig. 15 illustrates the contacting of the product with the heating device of
  • Fig. 16 schematically illustrates in a perspective view, another example of conditioning and application device made according to the invention.
  • Fig. 17 is a transverse section along XVII-XVII of Fig. 16, - Fig. 18 illustrates in an elevational view another exemplary embodiment of the conditioning and application device
  • Fig. 19 is a schematic and partial sectional view of the device of Fig. 18, when making up the eyelashes,
  • Figs. 20 and 21 schematically and partly illustrate other examples of devices for making up eyelashes made according to the invention
  • - Fig. 22 schematically and partly illustrates an exemplary layout of the heating device relatively to a composition stick
  • Fig. 23 illustrates another exemplary device, made according to the invention.
  • exemplary devices allowing i.a. the application of methods for cosmetic treatment of keratinous fibers.
  • These methods may include, as illustrated in Fig. 1 : a) a first step 10 consisting of heating up an application surface of a solid piece of product by means of an artificial heat source located on the outside of the piece of product, notably an application surface of a product stick, in order to bring it to a temperature above that of a portion of the product mass, away from the application surface and which remains solid during the application, and b) a second step 20 consisting of applying the thereby heated-up application surface on a region to be treated in order to transfer the product.
  • a first step 10 consisting of heating up an application surface of a solid piece of product by means of an artificial heat source located on the outside of the piece of product, notably an application surface of a product stick, in order to bring it to a temperature above that of a portion of the product mass, away from the application surface and which remains solid during the application
  • a second step 20 consisting of applying the
  • the method may include: a) a first step 30 consisting of heating an application member, b) a second step 40 consisting of picking up the composition on a solid piece of composition by means of the thereby heated-up application member, the application member causing upon contact with the composition, local melting of the outer surface of the composition piece, and c) a third step 50 consisting of applying the composition on the keratinous fibers.
  • the method may include: a) a first step 10 identical with that of the method described with reference to Fig. 1, and then b) a second step 60 consisting of transferring the heated-up composition onto an application member, and c) a third step 70 consisting of applying the composition thereby transferred on the application member, onto the keratinous fibers, preferably while the composition is still at a temperature clearly above room temperature, for example by more than 15°C.
  • the application member on which the composition is transferred may be a heating member if necessary.
  • FIG. 4 An application device 100 is illustrated in Fig. 4, which may be used for applying for example the method described with reference to Fig. 1.
  • This device 100 includes a conditioning and application device 101 of the product P and a heating device 102, which in the relevant example is independent of the device 101 and for example includes a casing 103 provided with an aperture 104 for at least partly introducing the device 101 in order to heat up the product P.
  • the latter for example is an eyelash make-up composition, the formulation of which was described above.
  • the device 101 may exist under various forms and defines a grip surface for the user by which he/she may handle the product P without any direct contact with fingers.
  • the device 101 may also allow the product P to be moved relatively to the grip surface gradually as the product P is consumed.
  • the product P for example appears within the device 101 in the form of an elongated stick along an axis X, for example with a circular cross-section.
  • Various mechanisms may be used for causing this relative displacement and the device 101 for example includes a mechanism including two portions 105 and 106 which may rotate relatively to each other, and means by which the relative rotation of the portions 5 to 6 may be transformed into an axial displacement along the X axis.
  • the stick is for example borne within the aforementioned mechanism, by a cup not shown, including lugs engaged into two parts respectively belonging to the portions
  • the conditioning and application device 101 may include protruding elements, for combing the eyelashes, for example as teeth 109, which may be positioned for example along a row all around the stick of product P, as this is seen in Fig. 5.
  • the height of the teeth 109 may be comprised between 1 and 10 mm.
  • the teeth 109 may be molded as a single part in plastic material.
  • the teeth 109 may if necessary be molded as a single part with the upper portion 106 of the device 101.
  • the teeth 109 may be fixed relatively to their support.
  • the casing 103 houses an electric source or includes a means for connection to an electric source, for example the mains via a low voltage transformer.
  • the casing 103 may also include starting means 110, such as for example an on/off switch, as well as one or more indicators 111 and 112 for signaling that it is switched on and/or the end of the warm-up of the product P.
  • the aperture 104 allows the end 115 of the stick to be brought in proximity to a heating means 120 present in the casing 103, as illustrated in Fig. 6.
  • the aperture 104 is for example of a section adapted to the device 101, so that the engagement of the latter into the casing brings the end 115 of the stick into a predefined position, at least along two spatial directions, relatively to the heating means 120.
  • the heating device 102 may include any adapted sensor 121 with which placement of the device 101 on the casing and optionally the positioning of the stick relatively to the heating means 120 may be detected.
  • the heating device 102 may include any adapted sensor, capable of evaluating the distance between the end 115 of the stick and the heating means 120, in order to only allow starting of the latter when a predefined distance is observed and/or in order to adjust the heating power according to the distance between the heating means and the piece of product.
  • the heating means 120 may be a heating system by emission of infrared radiation towards the end 115 of the stick, for example by means of a halogen or incandescent lamp or by blowing hot air towards the end 115.
  • the end 115 of the stick may further be heated up by exposure to radiowave radiation, for example microwaves, focussed on the end 115 of the stick or by ultrasonic vibrations.
  • the heating of the end of the stick may further take place by conduction, upon contact with a hot surface.
  • the heating means includes a heating surface which may be brought to the adequate temperature by any heating means, for example an electric resistor.
  • the upper end 115 of the stick may be brought into contact with the eyelashes to be made up. If necessary, a movement is exerted in order to displace the product along the eyelashes to their contact.
  • the heating device includes a heating means which is integral with the conditioning and application device 101 and which may include, as illustrated, a ring-shaped heating member, crossed by the stick.
  • the heating member is for example of a section greater than or equal to that of the stick.
  • the heating device for example includes a control member 171 on which the user may press in order to switch on operation of the heating member.
  • the latter for example includes a heating resistor which may heat up the end of the stick by conduction, convection and/or radiation.
  • the heating device may include an indicator lamp signaling to the user that the heating member is operating and/or that the temperature of use is reached.
  • the user may optionally switch off the heating when he/she notices visually that the end of the stick has changed its aspect following the rise in temperature, for example has become bright.
  • the user may then bring the surface of the softened product into contact with the eyelashes.
  • the stick at its upper end passes through an aperture 174 with a shrinked section with respect to the section of the body of the stick.
  • Softening of the stick upon contacting the heating member may be accompanied, in this example, by deformation of the end of the stick and allows the product to flow out.
  • the shrinked aperture may increase the precision for applying the product and prevent the stick from being moved forward relatively to the heating member as long as sufficient softening has not been achieved.
  • the heating device is integrated to the conditioning device, for example in proximity to the upper portion of the conditioning device, bearing the element 109 for combing the eyelashes.
  • the conditioning device may include a body 180 which houses the stick of product P, which for example has, as this may notably be seen in Fig. 11, a general flattened shape in cross-section.
  • the stick of product P may have a transverse kidney-shaped section of curvilinear major axis C, in order to follow the natural curvature of the fringe of the eyelashes.
  • the product may be borne by a supporting part which may be displaced to the body 180 by a cursor 181 maneuvered by the user, which may for example slide between two longitudinal grooves 182.
  • the device may include a base 185 which for example houses the electric source and supports an on/off switch 186 and if necessary one or more indicators 187 relating to the operation of the device.
  • Fig. 13 illustrates an alternative embodiment of the device 100 wherein the heating device 102 is integrated into a cap 190 with which the end 115 of the stick of product P may be heated up prior to its application on the keratinous materials.
  • the heating device 102 may house a non-apparent electric source, for example consisting of one or more battery cells or batteries, and a heating member for example including an electric resistor powered by the electric source. Examples of heating members which are suitable, are disclosed
  • the heating member is positioned so as to raise the temperature of a heating surface 200 which, in the example of Figs. 13-15, may come into contact with the stick, as illustrated in Fig. 15, in order to raise the temperature of distal end 115 of the latter.
  • the heating device 102 may include a switch 110 allowing the user to start or stop the heating device as well as an indicator 201 of operation, for example an indicator lamp which is lit when the heating surface is being heated.
  • the heating device 102 may optionally include any means for controlling the temperature at the surface 200, so that the latter does not exceed a predefined value.
  • the heating device 102 may optionally comprise any means for controlling the temperature of the heating surface 200, so that the latter does not exceed a predefined value.
  • the heating device 102 may also, if necessary, include a timer so that the piece of product can only be heated up for a predefined time, in order to avoid premature wearing out of the electric power source and/or avoid bringing the whole of the piece of product to an excessive temperature .
  • the heating device 102 may include adapted sensor allowing the operation of the heating to be initiated only in the case of effective contact of the heating surface with the piece of the product.
  • the heating device 102 may include a contact pressure sensor between the heating surface 200 and the stick and only allow heating of the heating surface 20 in the case of proven contact with the stick.
  • the heating surface 200 may for example be defined by a contact part 210, for example axially mobile along the X axis relatively to the body 205 of the heating device against the return action of an elastic return member 206, such as for example a spring housed inside the contact part 210, as illustrated in Fig. 15.
  • a heating device including an electric resistor 215 flattened down in the bottom of the contact part 210, in order to be as close as possible to the heating surface 200.
  • the contact part 210 is for example made in a good heat-conductive metal, with small wall thickness, so as to have low thermal inertia, for example aluminium.
  • the stick may have a transverse cross-section comprised between 0.1 and 5 cm 2 .
  • the device may be used by first switching on the heating device 102 and then waiting for the required time so that the end 115 of the stick which defines the application surface is raised to the sought temperature.
  • Setting of the temperature may for example be signaled by the indicator 201, which may for example pass from a continuous lit-up state signaling the starting of the device to a blinking lit-up state or may change color when the sought temperature is reached.
  • the device 101 may be separated from the cap 190 and the user may apply the product on the eyelashes. Softening of the product at the end 115 of the stick ensures comfortable application, good transfer on the eyelashes with a thick deposit.
  • the body of the stick is at room temperature or a at a slightly higher temperature, but not sufficient for compromising the mechanical strength required for withstanding the mechanical forces generated by the making of the device 101 and the application.
  • the temperature difference between the application surface and the body of the stick, notably opposite to the application surface, for example is of at least 20 0 C, or even at least 30 0 C, when the stick has its initial length, upon first use.
  • the device 100 illustrated in Fig. 16 combines a conditioning and application devicelOl and a heating device 102.
  • the product appears for example as a stick, which may be solid or hollow and supported by a core in a different material, for example a thermoplastic material.
  • the application surface is defined by the side surface 310 of the product stick, this side surface being for example a portion of an axisymmetrical cylinder.
  • the device 100 may include a handle 312 which may for example house an electric source formed by one or more battery cells or batteries.
  • the handle is extended with a wall 314 which may bear or define elements 109 for combing the eyelashes, as seen in Fig. 16.
  • the device 100 may include, opposite to the handle 312, a thumb wheel 316 which may for example allow the user to rotate the product relatively to the heating device 102.
  • the latter is for example positioned, as this is seen in Fig. 17, on an internal face of the wall 314 and for example includes one or more resistive wires 318.
  • the wall 314 may rotate relatively to the handle, which may for example allow a portion covered by the wall 314 to be heated up and then once the sought temperature is reached, this portion may be exposed by rotating the wall 314 so as to be able to use it for combing keratinous fibers.
  • rotation of the thumbed wheel 316 causes displacement of the piece of product P, the wall 314 being fixed relatively to the handle 312.
  • the product stick extends in the extension of the handle with its longitudinal axis coinciding with that of the handle and the side surface of the product stick is heated up by means of the heating device housed in a closure cap which will be fixed onto the handle and will cover the product stick.
  • the heated-up surface of the piece of product may be moved on the eyelashes by the user, for example moving it towards the tip of the eyelashes.
  • the eyelashes may not be pressed against the product.
  • the eyelashes H may be nipped between the piece of product P on the one hand and the heating device on the other hand.
  • the eyelashes may be engaged in between the teeth 109 or another element for combing eyelashes while they are held by the heated device 102 against the piece of product, as illustrated in Fig. 19.
  • the heating device 102 may be moved away from the piece of product or closer to it, the device being for example mounted on rods 330 which may slide in the device 101, for example against the return action of an elastic member such as a spring.
  • a cursor 332 may allow displacement of the piece of product P within the device 101 in order to have it move up gradually during its wear.
  • the hot surface of the heating device 102 is borne by a part 334 which is mounted on the rod 330 and which may be brought closer to the piece of product when the user presses thereon.
  • the user may for example press on the part
  • the piece of product appears as a sleeve borne by a core 340 which may be rotary, in order to create a relative movement between the eyelashes and the surface of the product without having the user displace the product.
  • the eyelashes H may be flattened against the product by a press roll 350 which may include a heating device or be heated up by a heating device.
  • the product P on the one hand and the press roll on the other hand may for example be borne by two branches of a claw, which allows them to be moved away from each other or brought closer to each other at will.
  • FIG. 21 An alternative embodiment is illustrated in Fig. 21, wherein the product is not directly applied by contact of the eyelashes H on the piece of product but via a transfer member 360.
  • the transfer member is for example heated to a sufficient temperature for softening the product and picking up some of it, and it may transfer the product on the eyelashes for example by rotating both when contacting the product and the eyelashes, as illustrated in Fig. 21.
  • the piece of product P may optionally be flattened against the transfer member 360 by a spring 361, which makes it possible to guarantee a contact with the product and with the transfer member in spite of the wear of the product.
  • the product is heated at its contact surface with the transfer member 360, the latter not being heated.
  • the heating device 102 may include a resistive element 371 wound around the stick of product in order to heat up its side surface.
  • the heating device 102 of including one or more application elements 372, for example teeth, hair or ribs, is illustrated.
  • the application elements allow the eyelashes to be combed.
  • a hot source is for example is positioned under these application elements in order to sufficiently raise their temperature and during the contact of the application member 373 of the heat device 102 with the piece of the product P, allowing a certain amount of it to be picked up and the eyelashes may then be made up with it.
  • the application member 312 is for example connected through a rod 374 to a handle 375 which may house an electric source formed by one or more battery cells or batteries.
  • the device is similar to the one of Fig. 16, the product being set into rotation relatively to the handle by a mechanical system, a portion of its side surface thereby passing automatically from a position where it is located facing the heating device and may be heated by the latter, to a position away from the heating device, for example diametrically opposite to where it may contact the eyelashes.
  • a means for selecting the direction of rotation may be provided in order to allow a movement of rotation from the middle towards the tip of the eyelashes.
  • Example 1 The example which follows is presented as an illustration and is not a limitation to the invention. Unless indicated otherwise, the proportions are by mass.
  • Example 1 The example which follows is presented as an illustration and is not a limitation to the invention. Unless indicated otherwise, the proportions are by mass.
  • the stick is hot-cast in a mold or directly in a packaging article and then sudden cooling is carried out in the freezer.
  • the hardness of the stick has the value of 86 g (i.e. 67,170Nm “2 ) at 20 0 C and 22 g (i.e. 17,180 Nm "2 ) at 60-70 0 C (heating temperature of the surface of the product).
  • Example 1 The composition of Example 1 is evaluated from a make-up point of view in the following way: a specimen of false eyelashes (A) is made up with the composition of Example 1 at room temperature (23°C), by accomplishing 10 passages of the stick over the eyelashes; another specimen of false eyelashes (B) is made up with the composition of Example 1 heated beforehand at the surface to 73°C, and after one passage of the stick on the eyelashes.
  • A a specimen of false eyelashes
  • B another specimen of false eyelashes
  • the specimen (B) comprises eyelashes which are much more loaded with composition than the specimen (A).
  • the MQ resin is dispersed in isododecane, and then at 105 0 C, the Nylon- 611/Dimethicone copolymer is added, and then the waxes, isopropyl alcohol, silica, pigments and bentone gel.
  • the stick is hot-cast in a mold or directly in a packaging article and then sudden cooling is carried out in the freezer.
  • the hardness value of the stick measured with the protocol given above is 96g (i.e. 74 942 Nm "2 ) at 20 0 C (product + measuring mobile at 20 0 C and of Ig at surface of the product at 60-70 0 C (measuring mobile at 30 0 C).
  • the method according to the invention therefore allows a greater deposit to be obtained on the eyelashes.
  • the invention is not limited to the described example.
  • the piece of product may for example be made with still other shapes.
  • the expression « including one or comprising one » should be understood as a synonym of « including at least one or comprising at least one Liste

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Abstract

L'invention concerne un procédé de traitement cosmétique de fibres kératineuses humaines, qui consiste à: a) chauffer, au contact ou à proximité d'un dispositif chauffant, une surface externe de morceau de produit solide, notamment à dureté égale ou supérieure à 50 g à 20° C, de façon à chauffer ce morceau de manière localisée pour seulement ramollir sensiblement ladite surface externe, et b) appliquer le produit ramolli sur les fibres à traiter, notamment les sourcils.
EP09786763A 2008-08-01 2009-07-30 Procédé de traitement de fibres kératineuses humaines Withdrawn EP2306868A2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR0855332A FR2934493B1 (fr) 2008-08-01 2008-08-01 Procede de taitement des fibres keratiniques humaines.
US9639808P 2008-09-12 2008-09-12
PCT/IB2009/053330 WO2010013221A2 (fr) 2008-08-01 2009-07-30 Procédé de traitement de fibres kératineuses

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EP2306868A2 true EP2306868A2 (fr) 2011-04-13

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US (1) US20110155162A1 (fr)
EP (1) EP2306868A2 (fr)
FR (1) FR2934493B1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2010013221A2 (fr)

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WO2010013221A3 (fr) 2010-04-22
WO2010013221A2 (fr) 2010-02-04
FR2934493A1 (fr) 2010-02-05
US20110155162A1 (en) 2011-06-30
FR2934493B1 (fr) 2010-09-17

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