EP2198830A2 - Kosmetische Zusammensetzung enthaltend einen verzweigten sulfonierten Polyester und ein besonderes Verdickungsmittel, Verwendung zum Frisiere - Google Patents

Kosmetische Zusammensetzung enthaltend einen verzweigten sulfonierten Polyester und ein besonderes Verdickungsmittel, Verwendung zum Frisiere Download PDF

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Publication number
EP2198830A2
EP2198830A2 EP09179583A EP09179583A EP2198830A2 EP 2198830 A2 EP2198830 A2 EP 2198830A2 EP 09179583 A EP09179583 A EP 09179583A EP 09179583 A EP09179583 A EP 09179583A EP 2198830 A2 EP2198830 A2 EP 2198830A2
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Prior art keywords
les
cosmetic composition
chosen
par
composition according
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English (en)
French (fr)
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EP2198830A3 (de
Inventor
Jonathan Gawtrey
Cécile Bebot
Dorothée Pasquet
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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Priority claimed from FR0858678A external-priority patent/FR2939684B1/fr
Priority claimed from FR0858672A external-priority patent/FR2939682B1/fr
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Publication of EP2198830A2 publication Critical patent/EP2198830A2/de
Publication of EP2198830A3 publication Critical patent/EP2198830A3/de
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86—Polyethers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to novel cosmetic compositions comprising one or more branching branched sulfonic polyesters and one or more polysaccharide thickeners comprising glucose units, as well as the uses of these compositions, in particular in capping.
  • the present invention also relates to a process for capping keratin materials using these compositions.
  • compositions obtained are in the form of gels, foams, sprays, creams, pasta.
  • compositions according to the present invention are easy to prepare and apply. They remain well located without sagging at the point of application.
  • the compositions according to the present invention can be applied accurately, without sagging and without loss of viscosity over time.
  • compositions according to the present invention make it possible to give the hairstyle a natural and durable hold.
  • the present invention also relates to a process for capping keratin materials, preferably human keratin materials and in particular the hair using the compositions according to the invention.
  • compositions according to the invention in particular for styling, shaping of keratin materials, preferably human keratin materials and in particular the hair.
  • (meth) acrylic in the sense of the present application means "acrylic or methacrylic".
  • the branched sulfonic polyesters used in the compositions of the present invention are fixing polymers known in the prior art. Their structure and synthesis are described in the documents WO 95/18191 , WO 97/08261 and WO 97/20899 .
  • the dicarboxylic acids forming units (a) may be aliphatic dicarboxylic acids, alicyclic dicarboxylic acids, aromatic dicarboxylic acids and mixtures of such acids.
  • Examples that may be mentioned include 1,4-cyclohexanedioic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, and acid. maleic acid, 1,3-cyclohexanedioic acid, phthalic acid, terephthalic acid and isophthalic acid and mixtures of such acids.
  • the diols forming units (b) are chosen for example from alkanediols and polyalkylenediols, and examples that may be mentioned include ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol.
  • the diamines capable of forming part of the units (b) are preferably chosen from alkanediamines and poly (oxyalkylene) diamines.
  • sulfonic function of units (c) encompasses both the sulfonic acid function (-SO 3 H) and the corresponding salified functions obtained by neutralizing the sulfonic acid function with a base, for example an alkali metal hydroxide.
  • the sulfonic functions are preferably in the form neutralized with an organic or inorganic base.
  • the units (c) are derived, for example, from dicarboxylic acids, dicarboxylic acid esters, glycols and hydroxy acids, all of them bearing at least one sulphonic group, in acidic and / or neutralized form, preferably in neutralized form. .
  • the units (c) bearing at least one sulphonic function preferably represent from 2 to 15 mol% of all the monomers.
  • the units (d) derived from multifunctional monomers are preferably present in an amount of between 0.1 and 40 mol% relative to all the monomers.
  • the multifunctional monomers forming units (d) are chosen, for example, from trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, trimellitic anhydride, erythritol, threitol, dipentaerythritol, pyromellitic dianhydride, and the like. dimethylpropionic acid.
  • the branched sulphonic polyesters may comprise, in addition to the four types of units (a) to (d) described above, units (e) derived from monomers having two different reactive functional groups, chosen, for example, from hydroxy carboxylic acids and carboxylic amino acids or mixtures thereof.
  • These units (e) may represent up to 40 mol% of all the monomers (a), (b), (c), (d) and (e).
  • the branched sulfonic polymers used in the present invention are preferably obtained from a monomer mixture in which the number of carboxylic acid functional equivalents is substantially equal to the number of equivalents of hydroxyl functions and amino functions. , possibly present.
  • the branched sulfonic polymers used in the hair styling compositions of the present invention are known and marketed for example by the company Eastman. There may be mentioned as a preferred commercial product, the product sold under the name AQ 1350 ® by Eastman.
  • composition according to the present invention advantageously comprises from 0.2 to 15%, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, of one or more branched sulphonic polyesters relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention further comprises one or more polysaccharide thickeners comprising glucose units.
  • the term "thickening agent” means an agent capable of increasing the viscosity of the medium by at least 50 centipoise at 25 ° C. and at a shear rate of 1 s -1 .
  • the 1% thickening agent in water or a 50/50 by weight water / alcohol mixture has a viscosity at 25 ° C and a shear rate of 1 s -1 greater than 100 centipoise.
  • These viscosities can be measured using, in particular, viscometers or rheometers with plane cone geometry.
  • the polysaccharide thickener (s) comprising glucose units are preferably chosen from celluloses, gellan gums and their derivatives.
  • Cellulose is a ⁇ 1-4 polyacetal cellobiose
  • cellobiose is a disaccharide consisting of 2 glucose molecules.
  • the celluloses that can be used in the compositions according to the present invention are chosen from nonionic celluloses not comprising a hydrophobic chain and celluloses comprising one or more hydrophobic chains.
  • the nonionic celluloses used according to the invention are cellulose ethers. Even more preferentially, these celluloses are hydroxyalkylcelluloses and in particular hydroxyethylcelluloses or hydroxypropylcelluloses. They may or may not contain a fatty chain. Among the nonionic celluloses not comprising a fatty chain, there may be mentioned hydroxyethylcelluloses, hydroxypropylcelluloses, hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses. A particularly suitable hydroxypropyl methylcellulose is METHOCEL F4M proposed by DOW CHEMICALS (INCI name HYDROXYPROPYLMETHYLCELLULOSE).
  • Gellan gum is a polysaccharide produced by aerobic fermentation of Sphingomonas elodea more commonly known as Pseudomonas elodea .
  • This linear polysaccharide is constituted by the sequence of the following monosaccharides: D-Glucose, D-Glucuronic acid and L-Rhamnose.
  • D-Glucose D-Glucuronic acid
  • L-Rhamnose L-Rhamnose
  • the polysaccharide thickener is chosen from gellan gums.
  • the gellan gum preferably used in the compositions according to the present invention is at least partially deacylated gellan gum.
  • This at least partially deacylated gellan gum is obtained by an alkaline treatment at high temperature.
  • a solution of KOH or NaOH will be used.
  • the purified gellan gum sold under the trade name "KELCOGEL®” by KELCO is suitable for preparing the compositions according to the invention.
  • the derivatives of gellan gum are all the products obtained by carrying out conventional chemical reactions, such as in particular esterifications, addition of a salt of an organic or inorganic acid.
  • welan gum is used as a derivative of the gellan gum.
  • Welane gum is a gellan gum modified by fermentation with Alcaligenes strain ATCC 31,555.
  • Welan gum has a repeating pentasaccharide structure consisting of a main chain consisting of D-Glucose, D-glucuronic acid and L units. -Rhamnose on which a pendant motif of L-Rhamnose or L-Mannose is grafted.
  • the welan gum sold under the trade name "KELCO CRETE®" by KELCO is suitable for preparing the compositions according to the invention.
  • the polysaccharide thickener (s) comprising glucose units are nonionic.
  • the concentration of polysaccharide thickeners comprising glucose units used in the compositions according to the present invention is between 0.05 and 10%, preferably between 0.1 and 5% and even more preferably between 0.5 and 3% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetically acceptable medium is aqueous.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more organic solvents, preferably in an amount of between 0.05 and 40%, most preferably between 1 and 20% by weight, relative to the weight total of the composition.
  • This organic solvent may be a lower alcohol C 2 to C 4 , in particular ethanol, polyols and polyol ethers such as propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, glycerol.
  • compositions according to the invention may also contain other cosmetically acceptable adjuvants, such as, for example, ionic or nonionic surfactants, thickening agents other than polysaccharide thickeners comprising glucose units of the invention, ethoxylated or non-ethoxylated fatty alcohols, co-thickening agents, penetration agents, perfumes, dyes, plasticizers, buffers, and various conventional adjuvants such as waxes, volatile or nonvolatile silicones, cyclic or linear or branched organomodified especially alkoxylated or modified with amine groups or unmodified, for example silicone gums, ceramides, pseudoceramides, vegetable oils, mineral or synthetic, vitamins or provitamines such as panthenol, opacifiers, reducing agents, emulsifiers, preservatives, mineral fillers, nacres, flakes, sunscreens, proteins, anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric fixing polymers, moisturizing agents, em
  • the surfactants that may be used in the composition according to the present invention may be anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or cationic surfactants, or mixtures thereof.
  • anionic surfactants that can be used, alone or as mixtures, in the context of the present invention, mention may especially be made of salts, and in particular alkali metal salts such as sodium salts, ammonium salts, sodium salts and the like.
  • alkylsulfates alkylethersulfates, alkylamidoethersulfates, alkylarylpolyethersulfates, monoglyceridesulfates; alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, ⁇ -olefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates; alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates; alkylsulfoacetates; acylsarconisates; and the acylglutamates, the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group.
  • alkyl esters and polyglycoside carboxylic acids such as alkyl glucoside citrates, alkyl polyglycoside tartrates, and the like may also be used in the context of the present invention.
  • anionic surfactants that can still be used, mention may also be made of acyllactylates whose acyl group contains from 8 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • alkyl-D-galactoside uronic acids and their salts mention may also be made of alkyl-D-galactoside uronic acids and their salts as well as polyoxyalkylenated (C 6 -C 24 ) alkyl ether carboxylic acids, (C 6 -C 24 ) alkylaryl (C 6 -C 24 ) polyoxyalkylenated ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C 6 -C 24 ) alkylcarboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those containing from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, and mixtures thereof.
  • nonionic surfactants that can be used in the context of the present invention are also well known compounds per se (see in particular in this regard " Handbook of Surfactants "by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178 They may be chosen in particular from alcohols, alpha-diols, (C 1 -C 20 ) alkyl phenols or polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty acids, having a fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups that may range from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups that may range from 2 to 30.
  • amphoteric surfactants which are suitable in the present invention, may especially be derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing, on the other hand, less a water-soluble anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate group, mention may also be made of (C 8 -C 20 ) alkylbetaines, sulphobetaines and (C 8 -C 20 ) alkyls. amido (C 6 -C 8 ) alkylbetaines or (C 8 -C 20 ) alkylamido (C 6 -C 8 ) alkyl sulfobetaines; and their mixtures.
  • a water-soluble anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or phospho
  • Examples include the cocoamphodiacetate sold under the trade name Miranol ® C2M concentrate by the RHODIA company.
  • amphoteric surfactants use is preferably made of alkyl (C 8 -C 20 ) betaines such as cocobetaine, (C 8 -C 20 ) alkylamidoalkyl (C 6 -C 8 ) betaines such as cocamidobetaine, alkylamphodiacetates such as disodium cocoamphodiacetate, and mixtures thereof.
  • alkyl (C 8 -C 20 ) betaines such as cocobetaine
  • (C 8 -C 20 ) alkylamidoalkyl (C 6 -C 8 ) betaines such as cocamidobetaine
  • alkylamphodiacetates such as disodium cocoamphodiacetate
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more cationic surfactants that are well known per se, such as primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, quaternary ammonium salts such as chlorides or bromides. tetraalkylammonium, alkylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium, trialkylbenzylammonium, trialkylhydroxyalkylammonium or alkylpyridinium, imidazoline derivatives; or oxides of amines with a cationic character.
  • cationic surfactants that are well known per se, such as primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, quaternary ammonium salts such as chlorides or bromides. tetraalkylammonium, alkylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium, trialkylbenzylammonium, trialkylhydroxyalkylam
  • nonionic, amphoteric and cationic surfactants described above may be used alone or in mixtures and their amount is between 0.01% and 30% by weight, preferably between 0.05% and 20% by weight and better still between 0.1% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Additional gelling agents and / or thickeners other than polysaccharide thickeners comprising glucose units and suitable for the compositions of the invention are well known in the art and may be selected from poly (oxyalkylene) glycols, poly (oxyalkylene) esters. glycols, alginates, biosaccharides, starch derivatives, natural gums such as xanthan gums, carob gums, scleroglucans, chitin and chitosan derivatives, carrageenans, clays, and mixtures thereof.
  • the additional gelling agents generally represent from 0.05 to 15%, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight of the composition.
  • the silicones that may be used as additives in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention are volatile or cyclic, linear or branched, volatile or non-volatile organic silicones with a viscosity of 5 ⁇ 10 -6 to 2.5 m. 2 / s at 25 ° C and preferably 1.10 -5 to 1m 2 / s.
  • the silicones that can be used in accordance with the invention may be soluble or insoluble in the composition and in particular may be polyorganosiloxanes that are insoluble in the composition of the invention. They can be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.
  • Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter NOLL “Chemistry and Technology of Silicones” (1968), Academy Press . They can be volatile or nonvolatile.
  • Non-volatile silicones and more particularly polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups, and mixtures thereof, are preferably used.
  • silicones are more particularly chosen from polyalkylsiloxanes, among which may be mentioned mainly polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups.
  • the viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25 ° C. according to ASTM 445 Appendix C.
  • CTFA dimethiconol
  • the polyalkylarylsiloxanes are especially chosen from polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1 ⁇ 10 -5 to 5 ⁇ 10 -2 m 2 / s at 25 ° C.
  • the silicone gums that may be used in accordance with the invention are, in particular, polyorganosiloxanes having high average molecular weights of between 200,000 and 1,000,000 used alone or in a mixture in a solvent.
  • This solvent may be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane or their mixtures.
  • the organopolysiloxane resins used in accordance with the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the units: R 2 SiO 2/2 , R 3 SiO 1/2 , RSiO 3/2 and SiO 4/2 in which R represents a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group.
  • R represents a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group.
  • R denotes a C 1 -C 4 lower alkyl group, more particularly methyl or a phenyl group.
  • organomodified silicones that may be used in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
  • the silicones as described above may be used alone or as a mixture, in an amount of between 0.01 and 20% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 5% by weight.
  • compositions of the invention may also comprise non-silicone fatty substances such as mineral, vegetable, animal and synthetic oils, waxes, fatty esters, ethoxylated or non-ethoxylated fatty alcohols, and fatty acids.
  • non-silicone fatty substances such as mineral, vegetable, animal and synthetic oils, waxes, fatty esters, ethoxylated or non-ethoxylated fatty alcohols, and fatty acids.
  • the wax or the waxes are chosen in particular from Carnauba wax, Candelila wax, and Alfa wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, vegetable waxes such as olive wax, rice wax hydrogenated jojoba wax or the absolute waxes of flowers such as the essential wax of blackcurrant sold by the company BERTIN (France), animal waxes such as beeswax, or modified beeswax (cerabellina) ; other waxes or waxy raw materials that can be used according to the invention are, in particular, marine waxes, such as the one sold by SOPHIM under the reference M82, and polyethylene or polyolefin waxes in general.
  • Saturated or unsaturated fatty acids are chosen more particularly among myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and isostearic acid.
  • the fatty esters are in particular the carboxylic acid esters, in particular the mono, di, tri or tetracarboxylic esters.
  • the carboxylic acid esters are in particular saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1 -C 26 aliphatic acid esters and saturated or unsaturated aliphatic alcohols, linear or branched C 1 -C 26 , the total number of carbon of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
  • C 2 -C 26 esters of C 4 -C 22 di or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 -C 22 alcohols and esters of mono di or tricarboxylic acids and di, tri, tetra or pentahydroxy alcohols.
  • diethyl sebacate diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate ; glyceryl trilactate; glyce
  • esters mentioned above it is preferred to use ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate and alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate.
  • Fatty alcohols that may be mentioned include saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2- butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol.
  • Fatty substances generally represent from 0.1 to 50%; preferably 1 to 30%, and even more preferably 2 to 20% by weight of the total composition.
  • compositions may comprise one or more additional fixing polymers different from the polymers of the invention.
  • fixing polymer is intended to mean any polymer which makes it possible to impart a shape to the hair or to maintain the hair in a given form.
  • the fixing polymers may be soluble in the cosmetically acceptable medium or insoluble in the same medium and used in this case in the form of dispersions of solid or liquid polymer particles (latex or pseudolatex).
  • the anionic fixing polymers generally used are polymers containing groups derived from carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphoric acid and have a number-average molecular weight of between about 500 and 5,000,000.
  • the carboxylic groups are provided by mono monomers or unsaturated dicarboxylic acids such as those having the formula: in which n is an integer from 0 to 10, A 1 denotes a methylene group, optionally connected to the carbon atom of the unsaturated group or to the neighboring methylene group when n is greater than 1, via a heteroatom such as oxygen or sulfur, R 7 denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl or benzyl group, R 8 denotes a hydrogen atom, a lower alkyl or carboxyl group, R 9 denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, lower, a -CH 2 -COOH group, phenyl or benzyl.
  • a lower alkyl group preferably denotes a group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular the methyl and ethyl groups.
  • anionic fixing polymer As another anionic fixing polymer that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the plugged anionic block polymer sold under the name Fixate G-100 by the company Noveon.
  • the anionic fixing polymers are preferably chosen from copolymers of acrylic acid or acrylic esters such as terpolymers of acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butylacrylamide sold under the name Ultrahold ® STRONG by the company BASF, copolymers derived from crotonic acid such as vinyl acetate / vinyl tertiobutylbenzoate / crotonic acid terpolymers and crotonic acid / vinyl acetate / vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold under the name Resin 28-29-30 by the company National Starch, polymers derived from maleic, fumaric, itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters such as the methyl vinyl ether / monoesterified maleic anhydride copolymers sold, for example, under the name Gantrez ®
  • the cationic fixing film-forming polymers that can be used according to the present invention are preferably chosen from polymers containing primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups forming part of the polymer chain or directly connected thereto, and having a molecular weight included between 500 and about 5,000,000 and preferably between 1,000 and 3,000,000.
  • amphoteric fixing polymers that may be used in accordance with the invention may be chosen from polymers comprising units B and C statistically distributed in the polymer chain, where B denotes a unit derived from a monomer comprising at least one basic nitrogen atom and C denotes a unit derived from an acidic monomer having one or more carboxylic or sulfonic groups, or B and C may denote groups derived from zwitterionic monomers of carboxybetaines or sulfobetaines;
  • B and C may also designate a cationic polymer chain comprising primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, in which at least one of the amine groups carries a carboxylic or sulphonic group connected via a hydrocarbon group, or B and C are part of a chain of an ethylene- ⁇ , ⁇ -dicarboxylic-based polymer, one of which has been reacted with a polyamine having one or more primary or secondary amine groups.
  • amphoteric fixing polymers mentioned above that are most particularly preferred according to the invention, mention will be made of those of the family (3) such as the copolymers whose CTFA name is Octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold. under the names Amphomer ®, Amphomer ® LV 71 or Lovocryl ® 47 by the company National Starch and those of family (4) such as copolymers of methyl methacrylate / dimethylcarboxymethylammonioethyl ethylmethacrylate methyl sold for example under the name Diaformer Z301 by the company SANDOZ.
  • family (3) such as the copolymers whose CTFA name is Octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold. under the names Amphomer ®, Amphomer ® LV 71 or Lovocryl ® 47 by the company
  • the alkyl groups of the nonionic polymers mentioned above preferably have from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
  • fixing polymers of grafted silicone type comprising a polysiloxane part and a part consisting of a non-silicone organic chain, one of the two parts constituting the main chain of the polymer and the other being grafted onto said main chain.
  • These polymers may be amphoteric, anionic or nonionic, and they are preferably anionic or nonionic.
  • grafted silicone polymers are, in particular, polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) on which are grafted, via a thiopropylene type connection link, mixed polymeric units of the poly (meth) acrylic acid type and poly (alkyl) (meth) acrylate), and polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) on which are grafted, via a thiopropylene type connecting member, polymeric units of the polyisobutyl (meth) acrylate type. .
  • PDMS polydimethylsiloxanes
  • PDMS polydimethylsiloxanes
  • silicone fixing polymers include the product Luviflex Silk ® marketed by BASF.
  • polyurethanes particularly targeted by the present invention are those described in the applications EP 0 751 162 , EP 0 637 600 , EP 0 648 485 and FR 2,743,297 applicant, and in the applications EP 0 656 021 and WO 94/03510 from BASF, and EP 0 619 111 from National Starch.
  • the concentration of additional fixing polymer (s) used in the compositions according to the present invention is between 0.1 and 20%, preferably between 0.5 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the compositions are in the form of gels.
  • the compositions have a viscosity greater than 500 cps at temperature of 25 ° C and at a shear rate of 1s -1 .
  • composition according to the invention when packaged in an aerosol device, it comprises at least one propellant, which may be chosen from volatile hydrocarbons, such as N-butane, propane, isobutane, pentane and hydrocarbons. halogenated compounds and mixtures thereof. It is also possible to use carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, dimethyl ether (DME), nitrogen, or compressed air as propellant. It is also possible to use propellant mixtures. Preferably, dimethyl ether is used.
  • volatile hydrocarbons such as N-butane, propane, isobutane, pentane and hydrocarbons.
  • halogenated compounds and mixtures thereof It is also possible to use carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, dimethyl ether (DME), nitrogen, or compressed air as propellant. It is also possible to use propellant mixtures.
  • DME dimethyl ether
  • propellant mixtures Preferably, dimethyl ether is used.
  • the propellant is present at a concentration of between 5 and 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition in the aerosol device, and more particularly at a concentration of between 10 and 60%.
  • composition according to the invention may especially be used in a non-rinsed application on the hair.
  • the subject of the invention is also a process for shaping the hair, comprising the application of a cosmetic composition according to the invention.
  • the invention relates to a styling process comprising applying a composition according to the invention to the hair, optionally rinsing the hair, and then shaping and drying the hair.
  • compositions A and B were produced.
  • the concentrations are expressed in grams of active ingredients per 100 grams of composition.
  • AT B Branched sulfonic polyester (1) 5 2 Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose (2) 2.2 - Gellan Gum (3) - 1 Glycerol 3 1 Propylene glycol 1 - sorbitol - 2.7 Sodium chloride - 0.25 PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil (4) 0.5 0.5 Perfume 0.2 0.2 conservatives qs qs Water Qs 100 Qs 100 Eastman AQ 1350 (2) Methocel F 4 M (Dow Chemical) (3) Kelcogel F (CP Kelco) (4) Cremophor CO 40 (Basf)
  • compositions have an adequate consistency for easy application and easy location on clean hair. After drying, the hair has a long-lasting natural hold.

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
EP09179583A 2008-12-17 2009-12-17 Kosmetische Zusammensetzung enthaltend einen verzweigten sulfonierten Polyester und ein besonderes Verdickungsmittel, Verwendung zum Frisiere Withdrawn EP2198830A3 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR0858678A FR2939684B1 (fr) 2008-12-17 2008-12-17 Composition cosmetique comprenant un polyester sulfonique ramifie et un epaississant particulier, utilisations en coiffage
FR0858672A FR2939682B1 (fr) 2008-12-17 2008-12-17 Compostion cosmetique comprenant un polyester sulfonoique ramifie, un polymere fixant additionnel et un epaississant particulier, utilisations en coiffage

Publications (2)

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EP2198830A2 true EP2198830A2 (de) 2010-06-23
EP2198830A3 EP2198830A3 (de) 2012-08-15

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EP09179583A Withdrawn EP2198830A3 (de) 2008-12-17 2009-12-17 Kosmetische Zusammensetzung enthaltend einen verzweigten sulfonierten Polyester und ein besonderes Verdickungsmittel, Verwendung zum Frisiere

Country Status (5)

Country Link
US (1) US20100236569A1 (de)
EP (1) EP2198830A3 (de)
JP (1) JP5756595B2 (de)
CN (1) CN101926745A (de)
BR (1) BRPI0907075A2 (de)

Families Citing this family (1)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
MX2023000870A (es) 2020-07-21 2023-05-19 Chembeau LLC Formulaciones cosmeticas de diester y usos de las mismas.

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FR2358878A1 (fr) * 1976-07-24 1978-02-17 Hoechst Ag Produit de traitement des cheveux
DE3411062A1 (de) * 1984-03-26 1985-10-03 Henkel KGaA, 4000 Düsseldorf Sulfongruppenhaltige polyester
EP0966946A1 (de) * 1998-06-11 1999-12-29 L'oreal Mindestens ein verzweigtes Sulfopolyester und ein Versorgungsmittel enthaltende kosmetische Zubereitung
US6255366B1 (en) * 1999-10-01 2001-07-03 Eastman Chemical Company Sulfopolymers as emulsion stabilizers with improved coagulum level
WO2001054660A1 (en) * 2000-01-27 2001-08-02 L'oreal High gloss mascara
FR2850021A1 (fr) * 2003-01-20 2004-07-23 Oreal Composition moussante pour le nettoyage de la peau
EP1652510A1 (de) * 2004-10-28 2006-05-03 L'oreal Kosmetische Zusammensetzung enhaltend einen sulfonierten Polyester und einen Polyurethan

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US5534247A (en) * 1993-03-25 1996-07-09 Maybelline Intermediate Co. Mascara composition
DE4315405A1 (de) * 1993-05-08 1994-11-10 Wella Ag Haarbehandlungsmittel
FR2760360B1 (fr) * 1997-03-04 1999-12-24 Oreal Composition de coiffage remodelable
FR2779643B1 (fr) * 1998-06-11 2000-08-11 Oreal Composition cosmetique comprenant au moins un polymere collant et au moins un polymere fixant
FR2815850B1 (fr) * 2000-10-27 2003-02-14 Oreal Composition cosmetique filmogene
FR2833491B1 (fr) * 2001-12-17 2004-10-08 Oreal Laque capillaire a base de polyesters sulfoniques ramifies et a haute teneur en eau
FR2869319B1 (fr) * 2004-04-23 2008-03-14 Oreal Gel concentre en polyester sulfonique ramifie et procede de preparation de ce gel
US20060024259A1 (en) * 2004-07-29 2006-02-02 Sabine Vrignaud Cosmetic composition comprising, in a non-fatty medium, at least one linear sulfonic polyester and at least one nonionic thickening polymer, processes using this composition and uses thereof
FR2873577B1 (fr) * 2004-07-29 2007-03-09 Oreal Composition cosmetique comprenant, dans un milieu non gras, un polyester sulfonique lineaire et un polymere epaississant non-ionique, procedes mettant en oeuvre cette composition et utilisations
JP2008513581A (ja) * 2004-09-16 2008-05-01 イーストマン ケミカル カンパニー 流体状スルホポリエステル配合物及びそれから製造された製品
US20060210507A1 (en) * 2004-10-28 2006-09-21 Ludivine Laurent Cosmetic composition comprising at least one sulphonic polyester and at least one polyurethane
FR2939660B1 (fr) * 2008-12-17 2013-05-31 Oreal Composition cosmetique comprenant un polyester sulfonique ramifie et un epaississant particulier et utilisations en coiffage

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2358878A1 (fr) * 1976-07-24 1978-02-17 Hoechst Ag Produit de traitement des cheveux
DE3411062A1 (de) * 1984-03-26 1985-10-03 Henkel KGaA, 4000 Düsseldorf Sulfongruppenhaltige polyester
EP0966946A1 (de) * 1998-06-11 1999-12-29 L'oreal Mindestens ein verzweigtes Sulfopolyester und ein Versorgungsmittel enthaltende kosmetische Zubereitung
US6255366B1 (en) * 1999-10-01 2001-07-03 Eastman Chemical Company Sulfopolymers as emulsion stabilizers with improved coagulum level
WO2001054660A1 (en) * 2000-01-27 2001-08-02 L'oreal High gloss mascara
FR2850021A1 (fr) * 2003-01-20 2004-07-23 Oreal Composition moussante pour le nettoyage de la peau
EP1652510A1 (de) * 2004-10-28 2006-05-03 L'oreal Kosmetische Zusammensetzung enhaltend einen sulfonierten Polyester und einen Polyurethan

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"PRODUCT DATA SHEET - EASTMAN AQ 1350 COPOLYESTER", INTERNET CITATION, [Online] XP002454385, Extrait de l'Internet: URL:http://www.eastman.com/ProductCatalogA pps/PageControllers/ProdDatashe et_PC.aspx?product=71011930> [extrait le 2007-10-09] *

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
BRPI0907075A2 (pt) 2013-05-07
EP2198830A3 (de) 2012-08-15
US20100236569A1 (en) 2010-09-23
JP5756595B2 (ja) 2015-07-29
CN101926745A (zh) 2010-12-29
JP2010143901A (ja) 2010-07-01

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