EP2096948A2

EP2096948A2 - Morphologically adaptive undergarment

Info

Publication number: EP2096948A2
Application number: EP07858448A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Ben Rose; Alan Cucknell; Neil Mason; Philip Crickmore
Original assignee: Dbapparel Operations SAS
Current assignee: DBI Operations Europe SAS
Priority date: 2006-10-16
Filing date: 2007-10-15
Publication date: 2009-09-09
Anticipated expiration: 2027-10-15
Also published as: FR2906976A1; WO2008046997A3; WO2008046997A2; FR2906976B1; EP2096948B1

Abstract

The invention relates to a bra (1) (or knickers), comprising two cups (2), each having a shaped flexible shell and an intermediate element (5) connecting the two cups, each cup (or the knickers) comprising: a first part (23) forming the greater part of the surface, having substantially homogeneous elasticity and having at least one hole; and a second part forming a linear yoke (24) passing through the hole, having much greater elasticity than the first part, and connected to opposite edges of the hole.

Description

UNDERWEAR WITH MORPHOLOGICAL ADAPTATION

The invention relates to the field of clothing, and in particular an undergarment intended to be worn relatively tight close to the skin, namely a bra or panties. A bra usually includes two domed cups for wrapping the chest, connected together by an intermediate element. From each bonnet, a back extends. The backs are able to be fixed together so that the bra is held in place on the user.

The same model of bra is usually distributed with different sizes, in order to adapt to the differences of the chest or chest of the users.

However, some models of bra may not. not be of adequate size to fit perfectly to the chest of some users. In addition, the user's breasts may have a different morphology, so that no bra is perfectly suited to the morphology of the two breasts. In addition, the morphology or volume of the chest of the same user can vary significantly over time. The bra may then be temporarily uncomfortable for its user. Beyond the discomfort, the user may even experience irritation or abrasions generated at the upper edge of the cup.

It is known from US 3063575 to have bottom caps and on both sides elastic pieces lightweight stretch fabric. This allows some adaptation to the chest, but changes the aesthetics of the bra in unacceptable proportions for the buyer. In a different field, that of nursing bra, document US 6036577 is known to provide a shell having a wide notch of 60 ° filled with a mesh material absorbing excess milk. It is a utility object that, unlike the bra concerned by the invention, is not subject to the requirements of style and fashion.

The invention aims to solve one or more of these disadvantages and in particular to provide a morphologically adaptable undergarment without sacrificing the aesthetics necessary for this type of products. The invention achieves its purpose by providing a tight type undergarment comprising a main textile surface to be fitted to the user's body, the surface being bordered by at least one edge also adapted to be fitted to the body of the wearer. the main textile surface having a first elasticity characteristic, the main textile surface having at least one flat yoke in a textile material having a second characteristic of elasticity greater than the first characteristic of elasticity, characterized in that the yoke has a substantially linear shape of small area.

The Applicant has in fact discovered that it is possible to confer properties of sufficient morphological adaptability for the underwear without altering their aesthetic characteristics in a negative manner, by providing that the yoke (s) intended to provide the adaptability are made under a substantially linear shape of small area, instead of being made in the form of larger and collected surfaces that are very visible and significantly alter the homogeneity of the textile piece. This linear form of small dimensions then appears more as a decorative motif than as a constructive element, although it plays this role.

By substantially linear shape of small surface, it is understood: on the one hand that the shape of the yoke clearly defines a length and a width (possibly variable along the length, in which case an average width is defined), and that the length of the yoke is substantially greater than the width of the yoke, preferably at least 1, 5 times greater, and even more preferably at least 2 times larger.

on the other hand, the surface of the yoke remains modest with respect to the surface of the textile piece, for example less than a few cm ² , preferably 5 cm ² , for a relatively long yoke (several centimeters in length, for example). example between 3 and 5 cm) and less than 2 cm ² or preferably of the order of 1 cm ² for a short yoke (less than or equal to two centimeters in length).

The yoke advantageously has one or more of the following geometric characteristics. The yoke can be single or multiple. The or each of the linear inserts can define a straight line or a curved line, form a line segment or a closed line on itself, be located entirely inside the textile surface, or on the contrary lead to one or two ends at a border of the main textile surface.

Particularly preferably, there is provided a plurality of inserts (for example three for a bra cup) opening substantially transversely at the edge of the piece. Preferably, these inserts are of substantially triangular shape. Advantageously, the base of the triangle is located on the side of the border and the top of the triangle is located inside the main textile surface. The length of the triangular linear yoke is preferably less than 2.5 cm and its width at the base is less than 1.5 cm and preferably 1 cm. This plurality of small inserts gives a very large flexibility morphological adaptation, while not denaturing the aesthetic of the bra or panties.

Advantageously, the edge in which one or more inserts emerges receives an elastic hem that cleanly ends the textile article and reinforce it at the level of the inserts, especially if they are made of a fragile material.

In the case of a bra, the considered edge in which the inserts open is advantageously the upper edge of the bra cup. For a panties, the border may be the waistband of the panties or thighs. A particular advantage of the embodiment of the invention in the form of narrow triangular inserts at the upper edge of the bra is that they allow both an adaptation to a smaller groove (the angle of the triangular recesses closes, which It allows the flexibility of the elastic material to be greater than the nominal volume for which the brassiere is intended (the angle of the recesses widens thanks to the elasticity of the elastic material).

Advantageously, the material forming the panel or panels is a continuous strip of elastic material fixed parallel to the main surface so as to pass at the level of the panel or panels. In a very advantageous arrangement, the same and single elastic band is thus used for the manufacture of several inserts, these being aligned along a surface that can cover the flat strip, for example at the edge of the main textile surface.

Preferably, the strip is fixed flat (taking into account the elasticity of the strip and the small dimensions considered inserts, the possible curve or left character of the main surface at this level is negligible) at the back of the main surface, so as not to be visible elsewhere than at the level of the inserts. Preferably, it is attached to the main surface along the edges or some edges of the inserts, for example along the two edges from the inner apex for triangular recesses opening at the edge. Fixing can be done by gluing, welding or sewing.

The material with superior elasticity characteristic for the inserts is advantageously an elastic tulle.

The main textile surface is advantageously constituted by a sandwich technique of several layers laminated and molded, including an upper textile layer, a lower textile layer, and at least one layer of foam between the two. Such a material which is flexible and comfortable but moderately elastic advantageously benefits from the adaptability possibilities offered by the inserts according to the invention. In the context of such a sandwich technique, it is very advantageous to provide that the material forming the panel (s) is a continuous strip of material elastic membrane introduced between layers of the constituent sandwich during its construction so as to pass at the level of the recesses which must have been made on the layers of the sandwich other than the highly elastic material. Such an elastic material becoming a constituent part of the sandwich is advantageously glued to the other layers outside the recess, which eliminates any seam at this location.

The invention is particularly applicable to a bra, comprising two cups each having a shaped flexible shell having an upper edge, and an intermediate element connecting the two cups, wherein the inserts are formed in the upper edge of the cups in the form of a few (for example 3) small triangular inserts. Each cup may be associated with a rigid frame attached to the lower edge of the flexible shell. The bra may conventionally comprise two straps and two backs, each back extending from a side edge of a respective cup, each strap joining the upper edge of a respective cup on the back extending from said cup.

The invention is also applicable to a pant, in particular in combination with the waist circumference or the leg loops.

The inserts according to the invention are advantageously formed by forming with the aid of cutting tools, for example die-cutting or ultrasonic cutting tools, in a complete main surface of the recesses corresponding to the inserts to form (which is particularly simple if the locations are edging), and then to come lay the continuous web of more extensible material that will cover the recesses parallel to the main surface, either inside or outside the one by fixing it along the recesses by gluing or by a sewing operation of conventional type, for example buttonhole, or internally by including it in the constituent sandwich according to the technique already mentioned. Then simply complete the making of the article in a conventional manner, especially with the possible formation of a hem on the edge.

Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will emerge clearly from the description which is given hereinafter, by way of indication and in no way limitative, with reference to the appended drawings, in which:

FIG 1 is a front view of an example of bra according to the invention; FIGS. 2 to 29 illustrate different cup configurations, in front view or back view.

FIGS. 30 and 31 illustrate, in front view, the application of the invention to a pair of pants according to two embodiments. The invention proposes a tight fit undergarment, and in particular in FIGS. 1 to 29, a bra provided with cups each having a shaped flexible shell. A first part of the hull forms the major part of the surface of the hull and has a substantially homogeneous elasticity. At least one recess is made in this first part, this recess being traversed by a second part of the shell having a much greater elasticity than that of the first part and secured to opposite edges of the recess.

Thus, the first part can ensure proper contact with the chest because it has a certain rigidity, the shell can also be locally deformed due to the elasticity of the second portion through the recess. The hull still provides a good support of the chest at the recesses, because of the elasticity of the second part.

Figure 1 illustrates an example of bra 1 according to the invention. This bra has two cups 2, connected by an intermediate portion 5. Each cup 2 forms a shaped flexible shell, intended to accommodate a breast of a user and advantageously having a shape close to a sphere sector. Each cup 2 advantageously has a rigid armature 22, fixed to the lower edge of the cup 2. In the example shown, the armature 22 is fixed over its entire length at the bottom of the cup, starting from the bottom part to a portion side of the soft shell. A back 4 is attached to a side edge of a respective cup 2, and has attachment means (not shown) to the other back. A strap 6 joins the upper edge of a cup 2 to a back 4. Each cup 2 has in its constituent thickness two parts: a first part 23 forming the major part of the surface of the cup shell 2 and having a first elasticity substantially homogeneous. In the first part 23 are formed three (or four) small recesses, here triangular (their size has been enlarged in the drawing for the sake of clarity of representation), which open into the upper edge 26 of the cup 2. Each recess is crossed and filled by a second portion formed of the yokes 24 of more elastic material than the material of the part 23, including tulle. Each yoke 24 is integral with the opposite edges 21 of the recess. In this case, the yoke 24 is fixed near the edges of the recesses, for example by sewing, as shown in broken lines. The second portion 24 also has a much greater elasticity than the first portion 23, so that the opposite edges 21 of a recess can be moved away from each other, when a force is exerted by the chest of the user. Thus, the cup 2 can adapt to the morphology of the user, limiting the efforts that could injure his chest. The first portion 23 has a sufficiently reduced elasticity to ensure good support and good contact with the chest of the user. The second part will for example have an elasticity at least three times, or even five times that of the first part.

In the examples of FIGS. 2 to 11, 13 to 24, 26, 28 and 29, the black elements in the first part 23 of the flexible bonnet shells represent a second part made of linear inserts 24 filling a recess that is also linear.

As illustrated in Figures 2 to 7, the first portion has one or more recesses, preferably extending from an upper edge of the flexible shell. In the example, the recesses extend substantially perpendicular to the upper edge. Thus, the flexible shell adapts advantageously to the morphology of the upper part of the chest, without altering the maintenance of _. the chest by the first part 23, in the lower part of the flexible shell.

In the example of Figures 2 and 3, the recesses have triangular shapes. These recesses are spaced approximately 30 to 35 millimeters apart, have a width of up to about 8 millimeters inside the seam of the yoke and have a length of about 25 millimeters. In the example of Figure 2, the width of the recess is reduced by moving away from the upper edge. The volume contained in the upper part of the flexible shell can thus easily be increased. In addition, this configuration allows to give a spherical shape to the chest of the user.

In the example of Figure 3, the width of the recess increases away from the upper edge. Thus, an increase in the volume contained in the middle part of the flexible shell is allowed.

In practice, the first portion of the flexible shell will advantageously have three recesses as shown in Figure 1, which is a good compromise between the distribution of the deformations of the flexible shell, the ease of manufacture of the bra and its aesthetics.

It is advantageous to provide vertical recesses from the upper edge of the flexible shell, particularly at a substantially horizontal portion of the upper edge.

In Figure 8, the recesses extend between the upper edge and the lower edge of the first portion. Figures 9 to 15 illustrate different variants in which the recesses are formed essentially in the middle part of the flexible shell.

In the front view of FIG. 9, the recesses generally have a shape of circular arcs. In Figures 10, 12 and 15, the recesses are rectangular in shape. In Figures 11 and 14, the recesses are diamond-shaped. In Figure 12, the second portion 24 forms the visible portion of the flexible shell and completely covers the first portion. In this example, the recesses in the first part are shown in broken lines.

In Figures 10 to 13, the recesses extend substantially vertically. In Figures 14 to 19, the recesses extend substantially horizontally.

In Figures 13 and 16 to 18, the first portion 23 has a plurality of recesses elongate and aligned. In Figures 16 to 18, the recesses are essentially formed at side edges of the first part.

In Figures 22 and 23, the recesses extend obliquely from the upper edge of the first portion.

In Figure 24, the recesses extend from the same point at the upper edge and are spaced angularly. In Figure 28, the recesses are spaced angularly and extend from the same point at the middle part of the shell. In Figure 29, the recesses are angularly spaced around a point in the middle part of the shell but the recesses do not extend to this middle part.

FIG. 25 illustrates from the front (left view) and from the rear (right view) a cap, in which the inserts of the second portion 24 are formed by and taken in a continuous band 27, for example of tulle, which fills several recesses of the first part 23. The edges of the recesses are illustrated by a discontinuous white line on the back view. The band 27, and therefore the inserts 24, are attached to the first part 23 along the edges of the recesses. This variant facilitates the manufacture of the bra, limits the number of edges of the second part may come into contact with the chest and improves the aesthetics of the inner part of the shell. The black zone in the middle part of the two views corresponds to the band 27. FIG. 26 illustrates a cap in which the second part is formed on the one hand by a simple thickness of textile piece 24, and on the other hand an elastic textile piece 25 overlapping the upper edge of the first portion and forming an elastic hem. The recesses are similar to those illustrated in FIG. 2. The elastic textile part 25 may be made of the same material and have the same visible width as patterns fixed on the visible part of the shell, or preferably be made of a material different and more resistant while being very elastic.

Similarly to FIG. 12, in FIG. 27, the second part forms the visible element 27 of the shell, placed in front of the cup, and completely covers the front face of the first part 23 and fills its recesses. The left view is a front view, the right view is a back view. The black area in the middle part corresponds to the second part 24.

Other variants may also be envisaged. It is possible to provide recesses of reduced width, by spacing the attachment of a second portion with respect to the edges of the recess, thus preserving the dimension of the second part which undergoes elastic deformation. We can also consider that the first part is fully embedded in the second part.

The recesses can be formed by cutting, take the form of slits or localized ruptures of the first part. The first part may in particular consist essentially of a molded synthetic material. One can consider using a polyurethane foam, a thickness between 1 and 4 millimeters. The first part can also be formed by the superposition of several layers of different materials secured. The first part can also consist essentially of several textile elements assembled by sewing. The flexible shell may also be covered with a covering on its part opposite the chest. This covering may be made in particular of polyester, polyamide, cotton or microfiber.

The second part may for example consist essentially of an elastic knitted fabric or elastic tulle. In particular, polyamide-elastane can be used. Different connection means between the first and second parts are possible, in particular by sewing, gluing or welding.

The application also applies to panties such as those shown in the figures

30 and 31. According to Figure 30, the pants has a belt edge 26 'which has three yokes 24'. According to Figure 31, the pants 1 "has on each leg edge 26" three yokes 24 ".

Although intended for structural improvements of the undergarment, the linear inserts 24, 24 ', 24 "of the invention are well suited to the aesthetics of the products and may optionally be combined, as shown in FIGS. 30, 31 to lines of true or false seams 28, 28 ', 28 "which extend the linear yoke. According to another advantageous arrangement, the edges of the inserts can receive a special stitch and decorated underlining the lines and giving the article a highly decorative character.

Claims

1. A tight type undergarment, of the bra or panty type, comprising a main textile surface (23) intended to be fitted to the body of the user, the surface being bordered by at least one edge (26) also intended to be fitted to the body of the user, the main textile surface (23) having a first elasticity characteristic, the main textile surface (23) having at least one yoke (24) flat in a textile material having a second characteristic greater elasticity than the first elasticity characteristic, characterized in that the yoke

(24) has a substantially linear shape of small area.

2. Undergarment according to claim 1, characterized in that the shape of the yoke (24) defines a length and a width and in that the length of the yoke (24) is substantially greater than the width of the yoke. the yoke, preferably at least 1, 5 times larger, and even more preferably at least 2 times larger.

3. Undergarment according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the surface of the yoke (24) is less than a few cm ² for a yoke several centimeters in length and less than 2 cm ² or preferably of the order of 1 cm ² for a yoke less than or equal to two centimeters in length.

4. Undergarment according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the yoke (24) has one or more of the following geometric characteristics: it is unique or multiple, it defines a straight line or a curved line ; it forms a segment of line or a line closed on itself; it is located entirely inside the textile surface (23), or it opens at one or both ends at a border (26) of the main textile surface (23).

5. Undergarment according to claim 4, characterized in that there is provided a plurality of inserts (24) opening substantially transversely edge (26) of the workpiece.

6. Undergarment according to claim 5, characterized in that each yoke (24) is triangular.

7. Undergarment according to claim 6, characterized in that the length of the triangular linear yoke (24) is preferably less than 2.5 cm and its width at the base is less than 1, 5 cm and preferably 1 cm.

8. Undergarment according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that a border (26) in which opens one or more inserts (24) receives an elastic hem (25).

9. Undergarment according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that a border in which opens one or more inserts (24) is the upper edge (26) of a cup (2) bra , a panty belt (26 ') or panty leg loops (26 ").

10. Undergarment according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the material forming the one or the inserts (24) is a continuous strip (27) of elastic material fixed parallel to the main surface (23) of way to pass the level or the inserts (24).

11. Undergarment according to claim 10, characterized in that the strip (27) is fixed to the rear of the main surface (23).

12. Undergarment according to claim 10, characterized in that the strip (27) is fixed between the layers of a sandwich constituting the main textile surface (23).