EP1979520A1 - Knitted or warp knitted fabric blank - Google Patents
Knitted or warp knitted fabric blankInfo
- Publication number
- EP1979520A1 EP1979520A1 EP05815343A EP05815343A EP1979520A1 EP 1979520 A1 EP1979520 A1 EP 1979520A1 EP 05815343 A EP05815343 A EP 05815343A EP 05815343 A EP05815343 A EP 05815343A EP 1979520 A1 EP1979520 A1 EP 1979520A1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- knitted
- fabric blank
- curved
- warp
- fabric
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
Links
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 48
- 229920002635 polyurethane Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000004814 polyurethane Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- XSQUKJJJFZCRTK-UHFFFAOYSA-N Urea Chemical compound NC(N)=O XSQUKJJJFZCRTK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 1
- 239000004202 carbamide Substances 0.000 claims 1
- 238000009940 knitting Methods 0.000 description 11
- 229920002334 Spandex Polymers 0.000 description 4
- 210000000481 breast Anatomy 0.000 description 3
- GQSGZTBDVNUIQS-DGCLKSJQSA-N ciclonicate Chemical compound C1C(C)(C)C[C@H](C)C[C@H]1OC(=O)C1=CC=CN=C1 GQSGZTBDVNUIQS-DGCLKSJQSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 238000011282 treatment Methods 0.000 description 3
- 230000006835 compression Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000007906 compression Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000007423 decrease Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229920003226 polyurethane urea Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000002699 waste material Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004952 Polyamide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004721 Polyphenylene oxide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 210000003484 anatomy Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 230000003247 decreasing effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000002542 deteriorative effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 235000004879 dioscorea Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229920001971 elastomer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000000806 elastomer Substances 0.000 description 1
- 210000001624 hip Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000012986 modification Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000004048 modification Effects 0.000 description 1
- 210000003205 muscle Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 229920002647 polyamide Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000570 polyether Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 210000002784 stomach Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- -1 wool Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 210000002268 wool Anatomy 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41B—SHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
- A41B17/00—Selection of special materials for underwear
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D31/00—Materials specially adapted for outerwear
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
- D04B1/18—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B21/14—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
- D04B21/18—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating elastic threads
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B21/20—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting articles of particular configuration
- D04B21/207—Wearing apparel or garment blanks
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41B—SHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
- A41B2500/00—Materials for shirts, underwear, baby linen or handkerchiefs not provided for in other groups of this subclass
- A41B2500/10—Knitted
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D2500/00—Materials for garments
- A41D2500/10—Knitted
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
- D10B2501/02—Underwear
Definitions
- the invention relates to a knitted or warp knitted fabric blank for use in garments, corsetry, sportswear, swimwear and the like, comprising a base fabric and at least one elastic thread inserted into the knitted base fabric.
- WO 2005/021852 proposes to include a polyether-based yarn into fabric blank which is heat fused to the yarn of the base fabric so that the processed fabric blank cannot ravel, curl or slip-in.
- US 6,401,497 Bl discloses a garment with a figure control or muscle support function which includes a warp knit fabric having ground stitches by jacquard knitting of inelastic yarn, in which elastic yarn is further inserted and/or knitted. Portions with relatively strong and weak straining forces are formed in the warp knit fabric in predetermined places in predetermined patterns by changing the ground stitches depending on the required strength of the straining forces. There is substantially no difference in level at a boundary between the portion with strong and weak straining forces.
- JP 2004-027465 A discloses a panty made of warp knit fabric provided by integrally knitting the stretchable knit fabric part and the unstretchable knit fabric part in a strip shape without generating puckering by inserting an inelastic yarn in a predetermined width into the stretch- able warp knit fabric as a ground knit by using the inelastic yarn and an elastic yarn as knit yarns and suppressing stretching of the ground knit.
- Leg cuts are provided which are shown in a curved shape.
- a knitted or warp knitted fabric blank as defined in the introductory which can be custom tailored for enhanced adaption to human anatomy and in particular in view of creating supporting and/or decorative zones to improve wearer's comfort and appearance.
- the length of the thread of the higher elasticity to be supplied to a needle is calculated from the supplied length of a thread of the lower elasticity and the data about the material property of the thread of the higher elasticity, and the feeding device is controlled accordingly.
- Such machine may be configured appropriately, so that the desired curved zones are introduced into the base fabric.
- a knitted or warp knitted fabric blank according to the invention is further characterized by at least one curved selvedge.
- the outline of a garment is arranged on the fabric blank in such a manner that longer edges of the garment are brought in coincidence with the edges of the fabric blank.
- An example is the edge of a brassiere below the breast cups, where this part must be cut in a subsequent step to conform to the shape of the body.
- measures are required to avoid fraying, as disclosed in WO 2005/021852.
- JP 10-245751 A discloses a method for felling the end of a knitted fabric enabling to form the knitted fabric and excellent in elasticity without deteriorating the tightness of felled end by the use of a flat knitting machine.
- the loops of the final course are subjected to a run-proof treatment com- prising feeding knitting yams to form the loops of the edge stitch portion followed to the loops of the final course, superposing the loops of the formed edge stitch portion on the loops of the adjacent final course and subsequently repeatedly subjecting the superposed loops to knitting treatments from one end of the final course to the other end to fix the loops of the final course.
- a modification of this felling treatment can be applied to the selvedge, so that finally a curved selvedge is produced.
- said curved selvedge may also comprise at least one of said predetermined curved zones, so that a differentiated profile of forces may be created in the selvedge.
- Another aspect of the invention provides that said at least one elastic thread is inserted into at least one of said predetermined curves .to produce an embroidery look.
- This can be achieved, for example, by forming turn-ups to create protrusions, as disclosed in JP 2005-113354 A, or by modifying the teachings of US 6,170,301 Bl to produce specific inhomogeneities by supplying more or less length of the elastic thread than required to form a stitch of the same shape and size of the base fabric.
- the elastic threads comprise polyurethane or polyurethane urea filaments. Even though other elastomers can be used, elastan threads, such as disclosed in US 6,637,181 Bl are preferred.
- Elastanes are mono- or multif ⁇ l continuous yarns composed of at least 85 % by weight of segmented polyurethanes or polyurethane ureas.
- the elastic filaments are very useful alone or in combination yarns together with other filaments comprising for example polyamide, wool, cotton and polyester for processing into textile goods, for example by means of warp knitting, circular knitting and flat knitting. Because of their high thermostability, they are particularly useful for application in fields which require a specific heat- settability, for example underwear, corsetry, sportswear, outerwear and cover fabrics.
- the elastic threads can be inserted into said base fabric by inlaying or meshing simultaneously with knitting the base fabric or in a consecutive course.
- Figure 1 is a schematic representation of a brassiere formed of a fabric blank having a curved selvedge and curved supporting zones;
- Figure 2 shows a schematic representation of an alternative embodiment of a brassiere cup in Figure 2a and an example of a profile of force in Figure 2b;
- Figure 3 is a schematic representation of a swimsuit, comprising curved zones having a predefined profile of forces
- Figure 4 is a schematic representation of a panty where the leg cuts are provided with curved zones of a specific profile of forces
- FIG. 5 is a schematic representation of a panty girdle having curved supporting zones in the back.
- a brassiere is shown, having two cups 10, 12 and a two-part belt 14, 16 integral with cups 10, 12 where the two parts 14, 16 of the belt can be closed at the wearer's back, as usual.
- the brassiere may optionally be provided with straps which are not illustrated here.
- the bottom edge 18 of the brassiere is coincident with the curved selvedge of the fabric blank and comprises between the lower part cups 10, 12, a zone 20 free of elastic threads. Otherwise, elastic threads, such as elastan, are incorporated in bottom edge 18 in a strip 22 of constant or varying width where such a profile of forces is created that the wearer's comfort is optimized.
- strips 20, 22 may be continuous, as shown, however, can be designed that left-hand part of strip 20 is continuous with left-hand part of strip 22, and similarly, right-hand part of strip 20 is continuous with right-hand part of strip 22, optionally leaving a segment of base fabric between them at the interconnection of cups 10, 12.
- Figure 2a shows an alternative embodiment of a brassiere cup where only the upper edge of the cup is provided with elastan containing curved zones in strip 24.
- Figure 2b shows an example of a profile of forces in strip 24, where 1 indicated the length of the circumference or outer edge of cup 12 or strip 24, respectively. It is seen that the elastic or straining force F starts at a basic value F 0 , remains on a constant level and then starts to rise until a maximum value F m and decreases to a final value F 1 .
- Other profiles are possible, linear or non-linear, according to the garment specification.
- FIG. 3 is a schematic representation of a swimsuit with curved zones 30, 32, in the waste and hip region of the swimsuit, where the profile of forces created by the elastic threads contained in those zones 30, 32 is such that the forces are lower in direction of the breast part, whereas the forces increase at the stomach part and decrease again in order to avoid cutting into the wearer's skin at the leg cut outs 34, 36 of the swimsuits.
- the swimsuit further comprises crescent-like supporting zones 40, 42 of curved shape simulating the function of a brassiere in the breast part of the swimsuit. It is an option to give an embroidery look for example to zones 30, 32 by creating protruding loops of elastic threads, by introducing a second elastic thread of same or different elasticity or combinations thereof.
- Figure 4 is a schematic representation of the front 44 and back 48 of a panty.
- the front 44 of the panty is provided with a triangle shaped zone where two sides of the triangle are curved, in the example inwardly curved. Any other curvature may be provided. These zones contain elastic threads to improve the wearer's appearance.
- the back 48 of the panty has curved zones 50, 52 at the leg cut outs ensuring the close fit of the panty to the wearer's body.
- Figure 5 is a schematic representation of the back of a panty girdle with supporting zones 54, 56 in curved shape, for example crescent-shaped, where again a profile of forces may be created such that the forces are higher in those parts of zones 54, 56 closer to the legs, the forces decreasing when approaching the waste band of the panty girdle.
Landscapes
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Materials Engineering (AREA)
- Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
- Corsets Or Brassieres (AREA)
- Undergarments, Swaddling Clothes, Handkerchiefs Or Underwear Materials (AREA)
- Professional, Industrial, Or Sporting Protective Garments (AREA)
Abstract
Description
Claims
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/EP2005/013150 WO2007065459A1 (en) | 2005-12-08 | 2005-12-08 | Knitted or warp knitted fabric blank |
Publications (3)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| EP1979520A1 true EP1979520A1 (en) | 2008-10-15 |
| EP1979520B1 EP1979520B1 (en) | 2010-03-31 |
| EP1979520B8 EP1979520B8 (en) | 2010-08-18 |
Family
ID=35895651
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| EP05815343A Expired - Lifetime EP1979520B8 (en) | 2005-12-08 | 2005-12-08 | Knitted or warp knitted fabric blank |
Country Status (6)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| EP (1) | EP1979520B8 (en) |
| AT (1) | ATE462813T1 (en) |
| DE (1) | DE602005020374D1 (en) |
| EA (1) | EA015203B1 (en) |
| ES (1) | ES2343361T3 (en) |
| WO (1) | WO2007065459A1 (en) |
Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| AU2017204330B2 (en) * | 2011-06-03 | 2018-05-24 | Speedo International Limited | Sports Garment |
Families Citing this family (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| HRP20210401T1 (en) | 2015-03-27 | 2021-04-16 | Trerè Innovation S.r.l. | A garment with elastic inserts produced using circular machines |
| CN111546707A (en) * | 2020-05-12 | 2020-08-18 | 汕头市尚锦汇内衣有限公司 | Fabric with curved elastic strips, product and manufacturing method of fabric |
Family Cites Families (6)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| GB652731A (en) * | 1946-08-20 | 1951-05-02 | Frant Stolle | A method of manufacturing elastic, shape-knitted articles by using non-elastic or elastic warp threads as well as elastic or non-elastic and raisable weft threads |
| FR2050994A5 (en) * | 1970-06-10 | 1971-04-02 | Fulchiron Fils Aine Sa | Elasticated edge fabric partic for under - clothes |
| JP3817690B2 (en) * | 2001-10-31 | 2006-09-06 | 株式会社タケダレース | Elastic warp knitted fabric for clothing |
| FR2852026B1 (en) * | 2003-03-07 | 2005-09-23 | TRICOTE TEXTILE ARTICLE OF LINGERIE, IN PARTICULAR BRASS SUPPORT WITH REGIONS OF DIFFERENT ELASTICITY. | |
| US7048013B2 (en) * | 2003-07-07 | 2006-05-23 | Maidenform, Inc. | Elastic material having variable modulus of elasticity |
| EP1658398B1 (en) * | 2003-08-29 | 2008-04-23 | Penn Elastic GmbH | A fabrik blank, method of manufacturing such fabric blank and a garment comprising the fabric blank |
-
2005
- 2005-12-08 AT AT05815343T patent/ATE462813T1/en active
- 2005-12-08 ES ES05815343T patent/ES2343361T3/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 2005-12-08 EP EP05815343A patent/EP1979520B8/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 2005-12-08 WO PCT/EP2005/013150 patent/WO2007065459A1/en not_active Ceased
- 2005-12-08 EA EA200801446A patent/EA015203B1/en not_active IP Right Cessation
- 2005-12-08 DE DE602005020374T patent/DE602005020374D1/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
Non-Patent Citations (1)
| Title |
|---|
| See references of WO2007065459A1 * |
Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| AU2017204330B2 (en) * | 2011-06-03 | 2018-05-24 | Speedo International Limited | Sports Garment |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| EP1979520B8 (en) | 2010-08-18 |
| ES2343361T3 (en) | 2010-07-29 |
| WO2007065459A1 (en) | 2007-06-14 |
| ATE462813T1 (en) | 2010-04-15 |
| EP1979520B1 (en) | 2010-03-31 |
| EA200801446A1 (en) | 2008-12-30 |
| EA015203B1 (en) | 2011-06-30 |
| DE602005020374D1 (en) | 2010-05-12 |
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