EP1973435A1

EP1973435A1 - Device and method for designing a garment

Info

Publication number: EP1973435A1
Application number: EP06847176A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Juan Jose Lastra; Ramon Yepes
Original assignee: Lectra SA
Current assignee: Lectra SA
Priority date: 2005-12-19
Filing date: 2006-12-19
Publication date: 2008-10-01
Also published as: FR2894783B1; US8249738B2; WO2007071880A1; US20090099683A1; FR2894783A1; JP2009520292A

Abstract

The invention relates to a system and a method for the computer-aided design of a garment occupying a virtual surface represented by data stored in a computer memory, comprising the following steps: generation of base patterns (lia) on said virtual surface (13a); addition of at least one style effect (17, 17a) on at least one base pattern (lia), converting said at least one base pattern into at least one stylized base pattern (13b); and formation of a stylized virtual surface (11b).

Description

Title of the invention

Device and method for designing a garment

Technical Field of the Invention The invention relates to the field of computer-aided design "CAD" of a garment, and finds particular application in the clothing or sewing industries. More specifically, the invention describes a method and a device for computer-aided design of clothing having style effects.

Background of the invention

Currently, the computer-aided design of a garment is limited to defining patterns on a smooth surface representative of the surface of the garment that surrounds a virtual dummy and flattening the three-dimensional "3D" surfaces created to a two-dimensional surface " 2D ".

Figure 17 illustrates the different computer design steps of a garment according to the prior art.

In a first step El01, the computer is loaded with a virtual clothing surface 111 which may be a virtual manikin or any other surface representing a skirt, trousers, sleeves, etc. The surface of the virtual garment 111 may be defined by a set of measurements and comfort parameters, as well as by the basic shape of the garment. Then, in step E102, seam lines 115 are defined on this virtual surface 111 to create three-dimensional patterns 113a. These patterns 113a are created exclusively by drawing design or seam lines 115 on the virtual surface 111 of the garment. Thus, the resulting three-dimensional patterns 113a are the different regions of the virtual surface 111 delimited by these seam lines 115. Then, in step E103, the flat patterns 113c corresponding to the three-dimensional patterns 113a are automatically calculated by a flattening method.

A flattening method is described for example by B.K. Hinds et al. in the article "Interactive garment design" published in 1990, in The Visual Computer (6) pages 53-61.

The main advantage to be used for making, a three-dimensional CAD-type computer-aided design, is the assurance that the flat patterns 113c resulting from the flattening operation, are able to dress the shape and volume of the machine. a model or human body and that the relationships between the three-dimensional patterns 113a constituting the garment are automatically maintained.

However, these methods seriously limit the nature of the flat pattern patterns 113c. Indeed, the patterns calculated by the flattening methods are not able to reproduce the same constraints as those defined by the designers of bosses or bosses.

Moreover, these methods mainly use geometric or topological criteria and do not take into account the properties of the fabric or style commonly used by the bosses.

In addition, according to these methods, the three-dimensional patterns are represented by trim surfaces of the basic virtual surface. Indeed, the three-dimensional patterns are defined by cutting or sewing lines limiting closed regions on the basic virtual surface. Thus, three-dimensional patterns are limited to being sub-surfaces of the basic virtual surface.

Obiet and summary of the invention

The present invention relates to a method of computer-aided design of a garment occupying a virtual surface represented by data stored in a memory of a computer, comprising the following steps:

generating base patterns on said virtual surface,

adding at least one styling effect to at least one basic pattern transforming said at least one basic pattern into at least one stylized basic pattern, and

- formation of a stylized virtual surface; the addition of a styling effect on a basic pattern comprises inserting a determined additional surface into a determined section of said basic pattern, said basic pattern corresponding to a closed path of arcs of a planar graph associated with said virtual surface, and said determined section corresponding to a pair of vertices belonging to said planar graph.

This method allows the incorporation of style effects such as flares, flounces, godets, folds or slings on a virtual three-dimensional or two-dimensional surface in a natural way by expressing it directly on the virtual surface of the garment. Thus, a wide range of basic patterns can be made in a simple manner so that flat patterns generated from the stylized virtual surface automatically and inherently include these style effects. Indeed, the expertise of the bosses to accommodate the flat patterns according to the desired final shape of the garment is introduced from the design on computer clothing.

In addition, the style effect can be incorporated on the virtual surface in a simple and accurate manner and allows to introduce a volume effect on this virtual surface of the garment.

Advantageously, the method comprises deleting, replacing, or modifying at least one styling effect on a stylized basic pattern by deleting, replacing, or modifying said determined additional surface. Thus, at least one style effect among the embedded style effects on the virtual surface can be deleted, replaced or modified at any time. This allows to generate in a simple way, a wide range of models of clothing or several variants of the same model of clothing.

According to one aspect of the present invention, the determined additional surface and the determined section are represented by a set of parameters.

Thus, a user such as a boss can interact directly and in his own language to give values to this set of parameters to define the shape or properties of the style effect or possibly to modify this style effect.

According to one embodiment, the set of parameters can be defined declaratively, allowing a resolution means to perform the calculations necessary for the insertion of said determined supplementary surface.

Thus, according to this embodiment of the method, it suffices to specify a set of constraints defining the shape of the style effect and the calculation of the geometric details satisfying these constraints is done automatically so that the user no need to intervene in the calculation process. This makes it possible to produce a plurality of clothing models generically.

According to another embodiment, the set of parameters is defined in a procedural manner according to a flowchart indicating step by step the progress of the insertion of the determined additional surface.

Thus, according to this second embodiment of the method, the user controls the calculation procedure for making a wide range of clothing models accurately. Advantageously, the method comprises a validation test for the insertion of the additional surface determined on said virtual surface.

Thus, the validation test makes it possible to ensure the proper adjustment of the additional surface determined on the virtual surface and possibly to correct the parameters associated with this insertion. This improves the quality of the garment design.

In addition, the method comprises a variation of said set of parameters to find the right parameters to satisfy said validation test.

Thus, one can choose the necessary parameters to further improve the quality of the design of the garment.

Advantageously, said determined section is chosen from a set of sections comprising a clamp section, an internal section, and an I-section.

Thus, the same additional surface can be inserted in several ways producing several styling effects.

Advantageously, said determined additional surface is selected from a set of additional surfaces including a gripper surface, a flare surface, a steering wheel surface, a bucket surface, a pleat surface, and a crimping surface.

Thus, the method allows the realization of a wide variety of style effects.

According to a preferred embodiment, the basic patterns are three-dimensional base patterns defined by seam lines on said virtual surface and said at least one stylized base pattern is a three-dimensional stylized basic pattern defined on said stylized virtual surface.

Thus, three-dimensional style effects are directly made on three-dimensional patterns. Advantageously, after forming said stylized virtual surface, the method comprises flattening said three-dimensional base patterns to form flat patterns reproducing said stylized virtual surface. Thus, the style effect is automatically reproduced on flat patterns that are directly suitable for an industrial design of the garment

The invention also relates to a device for designing a garment occupying a virtual surface represented by data stored in storage means, characterized in that it comprises processing means, for:

generate base patterns on said virtual surface,

- form a stylized virtual surface.

Said processing means perform the addition of a styling effect on a basic pattern by inserting a determined additional surface into a determined section of said basic pattern. Advantageously, said processing means selects said additional surface determined from a pre-established supplemental surface database having gripper surfaces, flaring surfaces, steering wheel surfaces, bucket surfaces, pleat surfaces, and surfaces. of fronce. Further, said processing means selects said determined section from a predetermined predetermined section database having gripper sections, internal sections, and I-sections.

The basic patterns are three-dimensional basic patterns defined by seam lines on said virtual surface and said minus a stylized basic pattern is a stylized three-dimensional basic pattern defined on said stylized virtual surface.

Said processing means are further intended to form flat patterns capable of reproducing said stylized virtual surface by flattening said three-dimensional base patterns.

The invention also relates to a device for producing garment parts, comprising:

a device for designing a garment according to the above characteristics, cutting means for cutting the garment pieces according to the flat patterns, and

- Data transmission means between the design device and the cutting means.

The invention is also directed to a computer program comprising code instructions for implementing a method according to the above characteristics.

The invention also relates to a data medium that can be read by a computer system, comprising data or instructions for implementing a method according to characteristics above.

Brief description of the drawings

Other features and advantages of the invention will appear on reading the description given below, by way of indication but not limitation, with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which:

- Figure 1 illustrates a device for automated design of a garment, according to the invention;

FIG. 2 is an example illustrating the various stages of design of the garment by means of the device of FIG. 1; FIG. 3 is an example illustrating a planar graph associated with the virtual surface of a garment, according to the invention;

FIG. 4 is an example illustrating the different steps of 3 D design of a garment by means of the device of FIG. 1; FIGS. 5A to 5E illustrate in more detail some steps of the example of FIG. 4;

FIGS. 6A to 13B illustrate several examples of adding a three-dimensional style effect on a virtual three-dimensional surface; FIG. 14 is a flowchart illustrating an exemplary design of a garment represented by a three-dimensional virtual surface by means of the device of FIG. 1;

FIG. 15 illustrates a very schematic example of the device of FIG. 1; FIG. 16 illustrates a very schematic example of a cutting device connected to the device of FIG. 1; and

- Figure 17 is a flowchart illustrating the different steps of designing a garment according to the prior art.

Detailed description of embodiments

In general, the design of a garment begins with a sketch drawn by a stylist illustrating the model of the garment to achieve.

Then, the bosses design the real geometric shapes of the patterns as well as their dimensions according to the different sizes of the garment. Thus, the pattern maker create a basic block or pattern most suited to the pattern of the garment to be designed.

A basic pattern is an initial or intermediate pattern whose form is constantly used for clothing design. The Basic pattern is usually designed for a medium-sized body of a target population.

The boss knows very well to make the modifications or transformations necessary to the basic patterns to obtain the model of the desired garment. For example, the boss can change the shape or dimensions of a basic pattern to reach the targeted pattern. It is considered that a set of basic patterns is suitable if the volume produced by the assembly of this set is suitable for dressing a medium sized human body. Once the basic patterns are finalized, other items such as notches, seam allowance, or additional items such as pockets or cuffs are added to the basic patterns.

Then, the basic patterns are graded by giving the proportions of length and width to these basic patterns according to a gradation table sequentially defining the different sizes of the garment.

Then, these basic patterns are cut and assembled to make a real model of the garment. Optionally, in this step, the basic patterns can be modified to improve the style or fit of the model on the body before starting the industrial production of the garment.

Figure 1 illustrates a device 1 for automated design of a garment, according to the invention. This device 1 is for example a computer or a computer system usually comprising processing means 3, memories or storage means 5, input devices (keyboard 7a, mouse 7b, disks, etc.) and peripherals. output (display means 9, printer, disks, etc.). The garment to be designed occupies a virtual surface represented by data that can be stored in the storage means 5.

The processing means 3 are intended to process, with a computer program, structured data supplied at the input of the device or computer system 1 to automatically produce a stylized virtual surface by generating basic patterns on the virtual surface of the garment, and joining at least one style effect on at least one basic pattern. The computer program comprising the code instructions implementing the garment design method according to the invention can be stored in the storage means 5 or in a data medium readable by the device or computer system 1 of the invention. design. Indeed, Figure 2 is an example illustrating the different steps of design of the garment by means of the device 1 of Figure 1.

In a first step E 1, a virtual surface 11a occupied by a garment is constructed in a known manner. This virtual surface 11a may be a virtual dummy or any other surface representing a shirt, skirt, pants, sleeves, etc. Thus, the virtual surface 11a is a computer representation of the garment that can be described parametrically or by a triangular mesh. The virtual surface 11a may therefore be represented by digital data stored in the storage means 5 of the design device 1 (the computer or the computer system).

Then, in step E2, base patterns 13a are generated on virtual surface 11a by defining seam lines on this virtual surface 11a.

A base pattern 13a can be defined by a face having a non-zero bounded surface on the virtual surface 11a and corresponding to a closed path 19 of arcs of a planar graph 21 associated with the virtual surface 11a, as illustrated in FIG.

Note that a graph G = (V, E) is composed of two sets, the set of edges E (edges, in English) and the set of vertices V (vertices, in English). Thus, a closed path 19 is an ordered sequence of vertices V1, ..., V8, V1 connected to each other by oriented edges or arcs A and whose last vertex is the first vertex Vl. In addition, it is said that a graph is planar if there is at least one way to draw the graph on a plane without two edges intersecting. Thus, a base pattern 13a is a face having a non-zero bounded surface on the virtual surface 11a defined as an image of a closed path 19 belonging to a planar graph 21. In other words, the planar graph 21 is a pre-image of the basic boss.

In step E3, at least one style effect 17 is added to at least one basic pattern 13a transforming the basic pattern into a stylized basic pattern 13b.

Thus, by transforming the initial virtual surface 11a by the addition of one or more styling effects 17 to the base pattern (s) 13a, a stylized virtual surface 11b is formed. More particularly, FIG. 4 illustrates the various 3D design steps of a garment by means of the design device 1 of FIG. 1.

In step EIl is constructed in a known manner the virtual surface 11a three-dimensional occupied by the garment. For example, to build this three-dimensional virtual surface 11a, we first build in step Ella, a virtual model 23 in 3D. The virtual dummy 23 is a computer representation of the volume (or the useful part of the volume) of a manikin or a human body. For example, the model virtual 23 may be described by a parametric outer surface or a triangular mesh.

The virtual dummy 23 can therefore be represented by digital data stored in the storage means 5 of the computer or the computer system 1, these data corresponding, for example, to the parametric external surface of the virtual dummy 23.

Various types of virtual dummies 23 can be defined, depending on different parameters, for example the age or gender of the person that the dummy represents. In particular, a database "mannequins" can be initially defined, in which the boss or a user can select a particular mannequin, as needed. Such a database may be previously stored in the storage means 5 of the computer system 1.

Then, in step ElIb, the three-dimensional virtual surface 11a of the garment is constructed by defining the spacings between this three-dimensional virtual surface 11a and the surface of the manikin 23.

Thus, the virtual three-dimensional surface of the garment is a subset of the three-dimensional Euclidean space occupied by the garment. By way of example, it is a parametric surface S in R ³ defined by an application X on a domain D in R ² (that is, X - D <= R ² → Se R ³ ) . Domain D corresponds to a merely connected surface homeomorphic to a disk.

Then, in step E12, three-dimensional base patterns 13a are generated on the three-dimensional virtual surface 11a by defining seam lines 15 on this three-dimensional virtual surface 11a.

In the same manner as above, a three-dimensional base pattern 13a may be defined by a face having a non-zero bounded surface on the three-dimensional virtual surface 11a and corresponding to a closed path 19 of arcs A of a planar graph 19 associated with the virtual surface 11a three-dimensional (see Figure 3).

Thus, a three-dimensional base pattern 13a denoted by P is a face having a non-zero bounded surface on the parametric surface S (three-dimensional virtual surface 11a) and which can be defined by the image according to the application X of a closed path of the planar graph G belonging to the domain D (that is, P = X (G)).

In step E13, the user acts on the three-dimensional base patterns 13a via the computer system 1 to directly add a three-dimensional style effect 17a to at least one three-dimensional base pattern 13a transforming the latter into a stylized basic pattern 13b three-dimensional. According to this example, the style effects 17a are pliers modeled by triangular pieces added to sections on the shoulder edges of the three-dimensional base patterns 13a of a straight dress.

Thus, the user or the boss interacts with the computer system 1 to introduce, in his own language, the effects of style 17a on the garment by indicating the particular values of a set of parameters relating to each style effect and its location on clothing.

Then, by transforming the initial three-dimensional virtual surface 11a by the addition of one or more styling effects 17a to the one or more three-dimensional base patterns 13a, a three-dimensional stylized virtual surface 11b is formed. In step E14, the computer system 1 automatically calculates by a known flattening method, the flat patterns 13c corresponding to the stylized virtual surface 11b three-dimensional. Thus, flattening automatically generates the most appropriate two-dimensional 17b style effect to reproduce the three-dimensional 17a style effect on the stylized virtual surface 11b. It will be appreciated that the addition of a three-dimensional style effect 17a at a three-dimensional base pattern 13a can be achieved by inserting a determined additional surface into a determined section of the base pattern 13a. The determined additional surface may be selected from a set of additional surfaces including a gripper surface, a flare surface, a steering wheel surface, a bucket surface, a pleat surface, or a crimping surface.

The additional surfaces are represented by digital data stored in the storage means 5 of the computer or the computer system 1, these data corresponding for example to the parametric outer surface of these surfaces.

In addition, the additional surface determined as well as the determined section may be represented by a set of parameters defined declaratively or procedurally.

Furthermore, it will be noted that the insertion of a determined additional surface is a non-isometric transformation. Indeed, the additional surface is a volume modifier that provides volume effects on the final garment. This category of transformations brings a very varied set of style effects.

FIGS. 5A to 5E illustrate in more detail the steps E13 and E14 of the example of FIG. 4.

Indeed, Figure 5A illustrates the base pattern 13a three-dimensional corresponding to the right side of the upper part of the right dress.

The addition of the three-dimensional style effect 17a to the base pattern 13a of the three-dimensional virtual surface 11a involves the insertion of an additional triangular surface onto the determined section between the "a" and "b" points. of the basic pattern 13a. According to this particular example, the addition of the style effect 17a corresponds to a clamp creating a volume effect on the three-dimensional virtual surface 11a describing the right dress.

FIG. 5B shows that the determined section 25 corresponds to an ordered pair of vertices Vl and V2 belonging to the planar graph 21 associated with the base pattern 13a. The vertex Vl corresponds to point "a" and the vertex V2 corresponds to point "b".

Indeed, FIG. 5B illustrates the planar graph 21 describing the pre-image (according to the application X) of the base pattern 13a and comprising the pair of vertices Vl and V2 describing the pre-image of the determined section 25 of the pattern of base 13a. In other words, the determined section 25 is a three-dimensional section corresponding to the image on the parametric surface S (three-dimensional base pattern 13a) by the mapping X, of an arc A belonging to the planar graph 21.

According to the example of FIGS. 5A and 5B, the determined section 25 is then a clamp section defined by the image according to the application X of the pair of vertices Vl and V2 of degrees "3" and "1" respectively. Indeed, the vertex Vl is an end of three arcs, while the vertex V2 which is an internal point is an end of a single arc.

Note that this determined section (clamp section) may be defined by positional parameters indicating the location of insertion of the clamp on the three-dimensional base pattern 13a.

Moreover, FIG. 5C illustrates the planar graph 26 of an additional surface representing a clamp piece modeled by two triangles "abc" and "cbd". The gripper piece is defined by an opening parameter (opening) having a positive real value defining the length 29 of the arc of the free portion of the gripper.

In addition, FIG. 5D shows the addition of the style effect 17a defined according to this example by a folded 3D triangle, along the determined three-dimensional section between the point "b" within the three-dimensional base pattern 13b and the point "a" on the edge of the three-dimensional base pattern 13a. According to this example, the three-dimensional base pattern 13b is bounded by the closed path "e, f, g, h, k, l, a, e". It will be noted that the points "a" and "d" are superimposed on the three-dimensional base pattern 13b and that the 3D triangle (indicated by the two triangles "abc" and "cbd") and which models the clip does not belong to the smooth surface of the three-dimensional base pattern 13b.

FIG. 5E corresponding to step E14 of FIG. 4 shows that the two triangles "abc" and "cbd" are flattened and thus form a plane gripper 17b like all the other regions of the plane base pattern 13c limited by the closed path "E, f, g, h, k, l, a, d, e". In this case, the two points "a" and "d" which formed a single point before the flattening, are now separated by a distance equal to the sum of the sides "ac" and "ad" of the two triangles "abc" and "Cbd" whose value corresponds to the desired opening of the clamp.

In order to insert the clamp piece into the clamp section 25, the processing means 3 of the computer system 1 builds a mesh triangulation of the clamp piece and calculates the bidimensional position corresponding to each vertex of the planar graph 27 of this clamp piece. Similarly, the processing means 3 calculates the three-dimensional positions of the points of the three-dimensional clamp 17a corresponding to the images of the vertices of the planar graph 27 of the clamp piece. FIGS. 6A to 13B illustrate other examples of adding a three-dimensional style effect to a three-dimensional virtual surface. Of course, the same examples can be applied for the addition of a two-dimensional style effect on a bidimensional virtual surface. Each of Figs. 6C and 7C illustrates an example of adding a flare type style effect 37a, 37b to a three-dimensional base pattern 33a, 33b of a three-dimensional virtual surface. A flare is a triangular shaped volume modifier that can be inserted along a gripper section or an "I-section" of the three-dimensional base pattern 33a, 33b to provide a volume or ease effect on the garment.

Indeed, FIG. 6A illustrates the planar graph 31a associated with the base pattern 33a and comprising an ordered pair of vertices Vl and V2 corresponding to an I-section.

The I-section is a three-dimensional section that can be defined by the image according to the application X of a pair of vertices Vl and V2 of degrees greater than or equal to three. According to the example of FIG. 6A, each of the vertices V1 and V2 is of degree three. Moreover, FIG. 7A illustrates the planar graph 31b associated with the base pattern 33b comprising a pair of vertices V3 and V4 corresponding to a clamping section (see FIG. 5B).

Depending on the nature of the determined section, a flare may be a full flare 37a or half flare 37b. When the determined section is an I-section, then the flare is classified as a full flare 37a. On the other hand, when the determined section is a clamp section, then the flare is classified as half flare 37b.

The determined section (clamp section or I-section) may be defined by positional parameters indicating the location of the insertion of the additional surface representing the flare 37a, 37b on the base pattern 33a, 33b. The computer system 1 allows automatic switching between the two types of flare depending on the nature of the determined section. FIG. 6B illustrates the planar graph 36a of a complete flaring piece inserted between the two vertices Vl and V2 corresponding to the I-section. In addition, FIG. 6C illustrates the insertion of the full flare 37a along the I-section of the basic pattern 33a. Similarly, FIG. 7B illustrates the planar graph 36b of an additional surface of a half flare inserted between the vertices

V3 and V4 corresponding to the clamp section and Figure 7C illustrates the insertion of the half-flare 37b along the clamp section of the base pattern 33b.

In both cases, the part or the additional flaring surface is defined by a set of parameters comprising an opening parameter, an upside parameter (reverse), and a display parameter.

The aperture parameter has a positive real value defining the length of the arc of the free portion of the flaring surface 37a, 37b.

The upside parameter is a binary value ("true" or "false") indicating the starting end of the flare surface. This value defines the end of the determined section where the open or wide portion of the flare surface is inserted. If the value of the wrong side is "false", then the top of the flaring cone is inserted at the starting end (corresponding to the vertex Vl or V3) of the determined section, while the broad part of the surface of the flare cone is flare is inserted at the end end (corresponding to the vertex V2 or V4) of the determined section. On the other hand, if the value of the backside is "true", then the top of the flare cone is inserted at the final end (corresponding to the vertex V2 or V4) of the determined section, while the broad part of the flange flaring surface is inserted at the starting end (corresponding to the vertex Vl or V3) of the determined section. Thus, the value of the backside defines the orientation of the flare cone. The visualization parameter takes its value in a binary set including "inside" and "outside" data indicating whether the flare 37a, 37b is viewed inwardly or outwardly relative to the base pattern 33a, 33b.

Figures 8A to 8F illustrate some examples of use of the flare effect.

Figure 8A illustrates an asymmetrical skirt having flares 37a of triangular shape on its lower part. Likewise, FIG. 8B illustrates a flying culotte skirt having half-flares 37b of triangular shape on its lower part. Figure 8C illustrates a draped shirt having flares 37 at the neck. In this case, the flares 37 are triangular shapes with curved sides.

Figures 8D to 8F illustrate several types of sleeves with flares. Figure 8D illustrates a cut sleeve having at the shoulder an elongated arc length by the insertion of triangular shapes forming complete flares 37a.

FIG. 8E illustrates a transformation of the half-flaring type 37b created by the insertion of the small triangles introducing an ease of the sleeve at the level of the shoulder. FIG. 8F illustrates a sleeve comprising complete flares 37a by the insertion of the triangular shapes thus forming a bell effect on one end of the sleeve.

Figs. 9A through 9E illustrate examples of adding a fold type style effect 47a, 47b to a three dimensional virtual surface. A fold is a rectangular shaped volume modifier that can be inserted along an I-section of a basic pattern 43a, 43b to provide volume or style effect. The fold surface is part of the stylized base pattern, i.e. it is integrated with that of the base pattern 43a. There are two types of folds depending on its shape and use. The first is a "normal fold" 47a having a trapezoidal shape used for surface insertion or which can be folded and stitched to one side of a basic pattern. For a normal fold 47a, the fold width is defined as half the width of the portion inserted into the base pattern 43a.

The second type of ply is the "hollow or round front ply" (face pleaf) defined by three longitudinal strips. The parameters defining this kind of fold comprise the width of the fold and the width of the central band.

FIG. 9A illustrates the planar graph 41 associated with a basic pattern 43a, 43b and having an ordered pair of vertices V5 and V6 corresponding to an I-section (see also FIG. 6A). The I-section may be defined by positional parameters indicating the location of the fold insertion on the base pattern 43a, 43b.

Figure 9B illustrates the planar graph 43a of an additional coin or surface of a normal fold and Figure 9C illustrates the insertion of the normal fold 47a into the base pattern 43a.

On the other hand, Fig. 9D illustrates the planar graph 43b of a piece of a face fold and Fig. 9E illustrates the insertion of the face fold 47b into the base pattern 43b.

Extra surfaces of normal 47a folds or face

47b can be defined by a set of parameters including a begin width parameter, an end width parameter, a fold type parameter, a reverse parameter, and display parameter {display).

The width start parameter has a positive real value defining the width of the front portion of the fold 47a, 47b at its leading end. The end of width parameter has a value actual positive setting defining the width of the front portion of the fold 47a, 47b on its end end.

The wrinkle type parameter indicates whether the fold is of normal type 47a or of face 47b. The upside parameter is a binary value ("true" or "false") indicating which is the starting end on the I-section.

The example of FIG. 9A shows that the vertices V5 and V6 are the ends of an arc oriented in the direction V5, V6 (that is to say that

V5 is the starting vertex and V6 is the ending vertex). Thus, if the value of the wrong side is "false", then the "beginning" and "end" of the width of the additional fold surface are inserted between the start vertices V5 and end V6 respectively. On the other hand, if the value of the backing is

"True", then the insertion is reversed so that the "start" and

"End" of the width of the extra fold surface are inserted between the vertices V6 and V5 respectively.

The display parameter takes its value in a binary set including "inside" and "outside" data indicating whether the fold 47a, 47b is viewed inwardly or outwardly relative to the base pattern 43a, 43b. Figures 10A to 10C illustrate some examples of transformations by a fold effect.

FIG. 10A illustrates a skirt comprising flywheels 48 of trapezoidal shape on its lower part. It is a normal fold type transformation 47a whose fold is retained at one of its ends on the lower edge of the skirt.

Similarly, FIG. 1BB illustrates a collapsed swelling sleeve at the armhole whose balloon effect is generated by a normal fold type transformation where trapezoidal shaped regions are inserted between the section at the shoulder and the level at the level of the shoulder. of the arm. FIG. 10C illustrates a right-sided round-pleated skirt 47b formed by two folds lying in opposite directions. Likewise, hollow pleats can be formed by meeting the two basic folds between them edge-to-edge and on the base pattern. Note that when a rectangular shape (see planar graph 43b of Fig. 9D) is inserted along an edge of a section between two basic patterns (see Fig. 11) and not along a section of I, so we get half a fold. Indeed, Figure 11 illustrates a planar graph 53 having an ordered pair of vertices V7 and V8 corresponding to a section between two basic patterns. Thus, a style effect of the half-fold type is formed when the planar graph of a rectangular additional surface (see FIG. 9D) is inserted between the pair of vertices V7 and V8 of the planar graph 53.

A half-fold can be defined by a set of parameters including a position parameter (point on section), a parameter of width (width), an end parameter (extreme), and a display parameter (display).

The position parameter indicates the position of the point corresponding to the vertex V7 and the part of the section where the half-fold is to be inserted.

The width parameter has a real value defining the width of the front part of the half-fold.

The display parameter takes its value in a binary set including "inside" and "outside" data indicating whether the fold is viewed inward or outward relative to the base pattern.

Figs. 12A and 12B illustrate an example of adding an internal clip type style effect to a three-dimensional virtual surface. An internal clamp is a volume modifier in the shape of a rhombus that can be inserted along a "section of clip 65 of a basic pattern 63 to accommodate the garment on the body. It is often used at the belt level to tighten the size of dresses or shirts.

Fig. 12A illustrates the base pattern 63 having the inner gripper section 65 and Fig. 12B illustrates the planar graph 66 of a coin having the shape of a rhombus or additional surface of an inner gripper.

The internal clamp section 65 is a 3D section which can be defined by the image according to the application X of a pair of internal vertices of degrees equal to one.

An internal clamp makes it possible, when flattening the basic pattern 63, to constrain the opening of the additional surface represented by a rhombus, on the plane without introducing holes.

An internal clamp can be defined by a set of parameters including a section parameter (section), a width parameter, and a display parameter.

The section parameter defines the section 65 on the base pattern 63 where the rhombus is to be introduced. The width parameter has a real value that defines the width of the diamond or the inner clip at its center.

The display parameter takes its value in a binary set with "inside" and "outside" data indicating whether the inner clip is viewed inward or outward relative to the base pattern. FIGS. 13A and 13B illustrate an example of the addition of a 3D style effect corresponding to a bucket 77 by the insertion of a determined additional surface on a determined section common to two basic patterns of a three-dimensional virtual surface. .

Indeed, FIG. 13A illustrates the planar graph 76 of a bucket piece 77 that can be inserted between the ordered vertices V7 and V8 of the planar graph illustrated in Figure 11 and corresponding to the section determined between two basic patterns. A bucket piece 77 corresponds to a sector of a disk whose circular portion is free and whose edges coincide with the section determined between the two basic patterns.

A bucket piece 77 may be defined by a set of parameters including, for example, an aperture parameter {aperture), a display parameter {display), a position parameter {point on section) and an extreme parameter {extreme} ). The opening parameter has a real value defining the length of the arc of the circular portion of the bucket.

The visualization parameter takes its value in a binary set including "inside" and "outside" data indicating whether the bucket is inserted or viewed inwardly or outwardly of the virtual surface of the garment.

The "position" parameter indicates the position of the vertex V7 of the planar graph 76 of the bucket 77 with respect to the determined section defined by the vertices V7 and V8 (see FIG. 11) between the two basic patterns. The end parameter takes its value in a binary set with "start" and "end" data relative to the top of the bucket cone. If the value of the end is "start", then the top of the bucket cone is attached to the upper end of the common determined section between the two base patterns (corresponding to the starting vertex V7 of Fig. 11). On the other hand, if the value of the end is "end", then the top of the cone of the bucket is attached to the end end (corresponding to the vertex V8 of FIG. 11) of the determined section.

In order to model the bucket part, the computer system calculates the two-dimensional position of each vertex of the planar graph 76 of the bucket as well as the three-dimensional position of the corresponding points of the 3D bucket. Elsewhere, one can build a triangulation (rnesh) by refining the mesh by creating more vertices within the planar graph 76 of the bucket part 77 by inserting the rays from the vertex V7 to the arc of the circle of the planar graph 76.

More particularly, after calculating the positions of the vertices of the planar graph 76 of the bucket, their positions on the 3D bucket are calculated. For this, it is sufficient to match the vertices V7 and V8 on each side of the planar graph 76 of the bucket 77 with the corresponding portion of the 3D section between the two basic 3D patterns where the bucket must be inserted. All other vertices will then correspond to the inner or outer part of the 3D virtual surface while maintaining their mutual distances. Figure 13B illustrates an example of insertion of outer cups 77 on the lower part of a skirt then producing a volume effect.

Fig. 14 is a flowchart illustrating an exemplary design on the computer or computer system 1 of a garment represented by a three-dimensional virtual surface 11a.

In a first step E21, the three-dimensional virtual surface 11a occupied by the garment is constructed.

Next, in step E22, the three-dimensional base patterns 13a are generated on the three-dimensional virtual surface 11a by defining seam lines 15 on this three-dimensional virtual surface 11a. In step E23a, a set of parameters is defined or edited for inserting, replacing, modifying or deleting a given additional surface or a corresponding determined section on a three-dimensional basic pattern for introducing, replacing, modifying, or remove a style effect 17 on the three-dimensional virtual surface 11a or the stylized virtual surface 11b. Each determined surface and its corresponding determined section are defined by a set of parameters corresponding to the desired style effect.

This set of parameters can be procedurally defined according to a flowchart which indicates step by step the progress of the insertion, or possibly the replacement, modification or deletion of the additional surface determined.

As a variant, the set of parameters may be defined declaratively, allowing a solver resolution means to carry out the calculations necessary for inserting, or possibly, replacing, modifying or deleting the determined supplementary surface.

Step E23b is a validation test of the insertion of the additional surface determined on the virtual surface 11a according to determined rules of validations to verify the good fit of the additional surface determined on the virtual surface 11a. Optionally, the validation test makes it possible to check the replacement, modification or deletion of the additional surface determined on the virtual surface 11a. If the result of the test is negative, then loops back to step E23a to republish or vary the set of parameters to find the right parameters to satisfy the validation test.

On the other hand, if the result of the test is positive, that is to say if the additional surface is well adjusted, or possibly the replacement, the modification or the suppression of the additional surface is well done, then we go to the step E24.

In step E24, the stylized virtual surface is flattened out, which automatically generates the two-dimensional 17b style effects on the flat patterns 13c corresponding to the effects of three-dimensional 17a style on the three-dimensional patterns of the stylized virtual surface 11b.

Optionally, in step E25, the flat base patterns 13c are graduated before being cut and assembled to make real models of the garment.

FIG. 15 illustrates a very schematic example of the computer system 1 implementing the method according to the invention.

According to this example, the computer system 1 comprises a processing means 3 (comprising the means 3a, 3b, 3c and 3d), the storage means 5a, 5b, 5c, the input peripherals 7 and the output peripherals 9.

The means 3a comprises a basic three-dimensional geometric modeling software allowing the creation of 3D surfaces or objects by the description of their parameters or characteristics. The means 3b includes software or a program according to the invention for modeling the effects of 3D style by the description of their parameters.

The means 3c may comprise parametric or variational modeling means and a constraint resolution means for performing the geometric calculations.

Finally, the means 3d may include a style effects recognition software.

On the other hand, the storage means 5a may include extensible databases of all types of 2D or 3D style effects that can be incorporated into any model of clothing. Thus, it may include a database of "additional surfaces" having gripper surfaces, flaring surfaces, steering wheel surfaces, bucket surfaces, crease surfaces, and creasing surfaces. It may also include a database of "sections" determined with clamp sections, internal sections, and I-sections.

Thus, this storage means 5a may have all the knowledge necessary to add each style effect to any particular model of clothing, including the parameters that the user must specify to add the style effect (for example, the width and length of a clip) and the validation rules that the style effect must respect in order for this effect to be validated.

The storage means 5b may comprise a database of "style effect models" and the storage means 5c may comprise a database of basic "geometric object models" (virtual clothing surfaces, manikin, etc.).

The user interacts via the input devices 7 with the style effect model displayed on the output devices 9 causing the automatic realization of the geometric modifications required by the means 3b of modeling the 3D style effects in interaction with the others means of the computer system 1.

Thus, in general, the processing means 3 are intended to select a determined additional surface and a determined section for inserting the additional surface determined in the determined section of a base pattern in order to achieve the addition of a style effect requested by a user.

Then, the user or the boss can view three-dimensional basic patterns on a screen. He can select a style effect to add to a basic pattern, analyze the overall impression, and if something does not satisfy him, he can select a new style effect to replace the previous one, or modify or delete the style effect.

It is also possible to make the garment by cutting operations parts in a fabric, after validating these parts by simulation. Such a cutting operation can be done according to methods and with known devices, for example as described in US 5,825,652.

Such a device is illustrated in FIG. 16. It comprises a cutting table 136, on which tissue 138 to be cut can be positioned, means 140 for positioning and moving a cutting tool 150, control means 142 and data transmission means 146 (for example a link of a communication network or a storage medium) between the design device 1 and the control means 142 of the cutting device.

Claims

1. A method of computer-aided design of a garment occupying a virtual surface represented by data stored in a memory of a computer, characterized in that it comprises the following steps:

generating base patterns (11a) on said virtual surface (13a),

adding at least one style effect (17, 17a) to at least one basic pattern (11a) transforming said at least one basic pattern into at least one stylized basic pattern (13b), and

- formation of a stylized virtual surface (11b), and in that the addition of a styling effect (17) on a base pattern (13a) includes inserting a determined additional surface into a determined section (25) said base pattern (13a), said base pattern corresponding to a closed path of arcs (19) of a planar graph (21) associated with said virtual surface (11a), and said determined section (25) corresponding to a pair of vertices belonging to said planar graph (21).

2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises a deletion, a replacement, or a modification of at least one style effect (17, 17a) on a stylized basic pattern (13b) by a deletion, replacement, or modification of said additional surface determined.

3. Method according to any one of claims 1 and 2, characterized in that the determined additional surface and the determined section are represented by a set of parameters.

4. Method according to claim 3, characterized in that the set of parameters is defined declaratively allowing a means of resolution to perform the calculations necessary for the insertion of said determined additional surface.

5. Method according to claim 3, characterized in that the set of parameters is defined in a procedural manner according to a flowchart indicating step by step the progress of the insertion of the additional surface determined.

6. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it comprises a validation test of the insertion of the additional surface determined on said virtual surface.

7. Method according to claim 6, characterized in that it comprises a variation of said set of parameters to find the right parameters to satisfy said validation test.

8. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that said determined section is selected from a set of sections having a clamp section, an inner section, and an I-section.

9. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that said additional surface determined is selected from a set of additional surfaces comprising a gripper surface, a flaring surface, a steering wheel surface, a surface of bucket, a crease surface, and a crease surface.

Method according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the basic patterns are three-dimensional base patterns (13a) defined by seam lines (15) on said surface virtual (11a) and said at least one stylized basic pattern (13b) is a three-dimensional stylized basic pattern defined on said stylized virtual surface (11b).

11. The method of claim 10, characterized in that after the formation of said stylized virtual surface (11b), the method comprises a flattening of said three-dimensional base patterns (13b) to form flat patterns (13c) reproducing said stylized virtual surface.

Apparatus for designing a garment occupying a virtual surface represented by data stored in storage means, characterized in that it comprises processing means (3), for:

- generating basic patterns (13a) on said virtual surface (11a), - adding at least one styling effect (17, 17a) on at least one basic pattern transforming said at least one basic pattern into at least one pattern basic stylized (13b), and

- forming a stylized virtual surface (Hb), and in that said processing means (3) perform the addition of a styling effect on a base pattern (13a) by inserting an additional surface determined in a determined section (25) of said basic pattern.

Apparatus according to claim 12, characterized in that said processing means (3) selects said additional surface determined from a pre-established additional surface database having gripper surfaces, flare surfaces, flywheel surfaces, bucket surfaces, crease surfaces, and crease surfaces.

14. Device according to any one of claims 12 and 13, characterized in that said processing means (3) select said determined section from a database of predetermined predetermined sections having clamp sections, internal sections, and sections in I.

Device according to any one of claims 12 to 14, characterized in that the basic patterns are three-dimensional basic patterns defined by seam lines on said virtual surface and said at least one stylized basic pattern is a pattern. basic stylized three-dimensional defined on said stylized virtual surface.

16. Device according to claim 15, characterized in that said processing means (3) are further intended to form flat patterns capable of reproducing said stylized virtual surface by flattening said three-dimensional base patterns.

17. Device for producing garment parts, characterized in that it comprises; - A device (1) for designing a garment according to any one of claims 12 to 16,

cutting means for cutting the garment pieces according to the flat patterns, and

- Data transmission means between the design device and the cutting means.

Computer program comprising code instructions for implementing a method according to any one of claims 1 to 11.

19. A data carrier readable by a computer system, comprising data or instructions for implementing a method according to any one of claims 1 to 11.