EP1738738B1 - Mikrokapseln - Google Patents

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Publication number
EP1738738B1
EP1738738B1 EP05012065A EP05012065A EP1738738B1 EP 1738738 B1 EP1738738 B1 EP 1738738B1 EP 05012065 A EP05012065 A EP 05012065A EP 05012065 A EP05012065 A EP 05012065A EP 1738738 B1 EP1738738 B1 EP 1738738B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
acid
microcapsule according
component
fatty
esters
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EP05012065A
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English (en)
French (fr)
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EP1738738A1 (de
Inventor
Josep-Lluis Dr. Viladot Petit
Andreas Dr. Rathjens
Maria Dr. De Moragas
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Cognis IP Management GmbH
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Cognis IP Management GmbH
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Priority to ES05012065T priority Critical patent/ES2390274T3/es
Priority to EP05012065A priority patent/EP1738738B1/de
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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/26Aluminium; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/29Titanium; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31Hydrocarbons
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67Vitamins
    • A61K8/676Ascorbic acid, i.e. vitamin C
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9771Ginkgophyta, e.g. Ginkgoaceae [Ginkgo family]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/28Rubbing or scrubbing compositions; Peeling or abrasive compositions; Containing exfoliants
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A61K2800/412Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/60Particulates further characterized by their structure or composition
    • A61K2800/61Surface treated
    • A61K2800/62Coated
    • A61K2800/624Coated by macromolecular compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/60Particulates further characterized by their structure or composition
    • A61K2800/65Characterized by the composition of the particulate/core
    • A61K2800/651The particulate/core comprising inorganic material

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the area of skin care compositions and claims encapsulated exfoliating agents, cosmetic compositions comprising said capsules and the use of said encapsulated agents for making cosmetic compositions, particular for skin care products.
  • compositions While many cosmetic preparations or compositions include inorganic materials for cleansing purposes, a demand exists for all-organic compositions function as cleansers for skin scrubbing agents or masks. Some cosmetic formulations use organic agents such as walnut hulls, almond meal and corn meal.
  • Drawbacks with these prior art compositions include the use of water as the base material. Water has no therapeutic effect and its inclusion in these prior art compositions merely dilutes the active components. Compositions containing scrubbing agents can be abrasive on the skin, causing redness or throbbing after use. Compositions containing food products such as walnut hulls require the addition of preservatives to prevent the food products from spoiling over time. The preservatives contribute to the cost of the product and further dilute the active components.
  • the present invention claims microcapsules having a mean diameter of from about 0.1 to about 5 mm, a membrane and/or a matrix containing at least one active principle, which are characterised in that said active principle is an exfoliating agent, especially an extract of bamboo.
  • microcapsules comprising exfoliating agents which are rich in abrasives, especially bamboo extract as an active principle solve the problem as outlined above in a perfect manner.
  • the capsules can be dried and added to any kind of cosmetic, particularly skin care composition without introducing water, the products are mild to skin and do not need the addition of preservatives (although they can be added if necessary for other purposes).
  • the bamboo extracts do not only cause a scrubbing or peeling effect due to the presence of silicates, it has also been found that the other ingredients act as balms and show an anti-inflammatory effect, which is increased in case chitosan is uses as the cationic polymer for encapsulation.
  • These positive effects to skin can be increased by adding further plant extracts and/or pigments.
  • bamboo and White or Green Tea extract with mica has been found rather advantageous.
  • Exfoliating agents which can be used according to the present inventions, are those solid compounds having abrasive properties.
  • the preferred components are silicates like rhyolite, lithothamnium or nelumbo nucifera (obtained from the lotos plant), however also powdered avocado kernels or lemon or orange peel can be used.
  • plant extracts rich in silicates are used.
  • bamboo extract Bambusa spp.
  • bamboo extract is well known for its skin-lightening properties and as skin exfoliation promoting compound.
  • WO 04/017934 A1 Cosmetic compositions having skin-smoothing activity. More particularly, the composition comprises plant extracts selected from i.e. Bambusa vulgaris. The application, however, is totally silent with respect to encapsulated plant extracts. Extracts of bamboo are rich in inorganic silicates.
  • the plant extracts which form component (b1) according to the present invention are chosen from the plants selected from the group consisting of Ginkgo biloba, Camellia sinensis (Green Tea or White Tea) Oleacea europensis, Glyzyrrhiza glabra, Vaccinium myrtillus, Trifolium pratense, Litchi sinensis, Vitis, vinifera, Brassica oleracea, Punica granatum, Petroselinium crispum, Centella asiatica, Passiflora incarnata, Medicago sativa, Valeriana officinalis, Castanea sativa, Salix alba, Hapagophytum procumbens, Aloe barbadensis, Melissa officinalis and Citrus Aurantium.
  • Ginkgo biloba Camellia sinensis (Green Tea or White Tea) Oleacea europensis, Glyzyrrhiza glabra, Vaccinium myrtillus, Trifolium
  • the active ingredients of extracts from the leaves of the ginkgo tree are flavonoid glycosides, which among others contain (iso)quercitin glycosides, kaempferol, kaempferol-3-rhamnosides, isorhamnetin, luteoline glycosides, sitosterol glycosides and predominantly hexacyclic terpene lactones, consisting of ginkgolides A, B, C, J, M and bilobalides.
  • Leaves of green tea contain many compounds, such as polysaccharides, volatile oils, vitamins, minerals, purines, alkaloids (e.g. caffeine) and polyphenols (catechins and flavonoids). Although all all tea types have antibacterial and free radical capturing (antioxidising) activities, the efficacy decreases substantially the darker the variety of tea is. This is due to the lower contents of anti-oxidising polyphenols remaining in the leaves. Beside extracts of the green leaves of tea, one can also use so-called “white tea” extracts, which does not refer to a special variety of tea, but to a stage of fermentation of green tea leaves. Among the various components of green tea extracts, polyphenols of the flavonoid and catechin type (“tea tannins”) are the most important.
  • R1 R2 R3 R4 (-)-Epicatechin H H (-) Epigallocatechin H OH (-) Epicatechin gallate Galloyl H (-) Epigallocatechin gallate Galloyl OH Theflavin H H Theaflavin monogallate A Galloyl H Theaflavin monogallat B H Galloyl Theaflavin digallate Galloyl Galloyl
  • the main constituent of the leaves of the olive tree is the antioxidant oleuropein, which is also the main source for hydroxytyrosol.
  • the licorice root contains glycyrrhizin, 50 times sweeter than sucrose, which encourages the production of hormones such as hydrocortisone.
  • the extracts show an anti-inflammatory action and also stimulate the adrenal cortex after steroid therapy.
  • Main component of the extracts of Glyzyrrhiza glabra is glycyrrhizinic acid:
  • Beside the acid also their salts, mainly the zinc salts, as well as their esters (e.g. with fatty alcohols or sterols) can be employed.
  • their salts mainly the zinc salts, as well as their esters (e.g. with fatty alcohols or sterols) can be employed.
  • Extracts of blueberries comprise a mixture of at least 15 different anthocyanosides, like the following.
  • extracts of Vaccinium comprise 20 to 25% b.w. anthocyanosides, 5 to 10 % b.w. tannins and small amounts of various alkaloids like e.g. myrtin and epimyrtin, phenolic acids and glycosides of quercitrin, isoquercitrin and hyperosid.
  • alkaloids like e.g. myrtin and epimyrtin, phenolic acids and glycosides of quercitrin, isoquercitrin and hyperosid.
  • red clover Trifolium pratense
  • isoflavones like e.g. daidzein, genestein, formononentin and biochanin as well as their glucosides like ononin or sissostrin: * Isoflavonglucosides R 1 R 2 R 3 R 4 Daizidin H H Glucose H Genistin H H Glucose OH Ononin H CH 3 Glucose H Sissostrin H CH 3 Glucose OH
  • Extracts of pericarps from Litchi are well known for its high content of flavon derivatives like e.g. 2-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyrans, flavanen, flavan-3-ols (catechins, catechin oligomeren), flavan-3,4-diols (leucoanthocyaniden), flaves, flavonols and flavonons.
  • flavon derivatives like e.g. 2-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyrans, flavanen, flavan-3-ols (catechins, catechin oligomeren), flavan-3,4-diols (leucoanthocyaniden), flaves, flavonols and flavonons.
  • the main component represent condensed tannins, so-called procyanodols (OPC).
  • PPC procyanodols
  • procyanidins mainly the preferred proanthocyanidin A2 (OPC A2) behave like vitamin P, especially with respect to MMP inhibition.
  • the main actives of grape vine are polyphenols of the OPC type.
  • the main active principles of cauliflower are amino acids, especially methionin and cystein, and glucosinolates like e.g. glucoraphanin.
  • the main active principles of grenadine Punica granatum ) are sugars, citric acid and delphinidin-1,2-glykoside or its aglykon
  • Main constituents of Centella asiatica are high condensed naphthenic acids, especially asiatica acid and madecassica acid and their glycosides.
  • Extracts of passion flower are rich in fl arms of the apigenin and luteolin-type and their C-glycosides:
  • Extracts of Alfalfa are rich in isoflaxe like e.g. daidzein, genestein, formononetin, biochanin A und tricin :
  • the main constituents of extracts of Valeriana officinalis are valeric acid, valerianone and borneol esters.
  • Main ingredients of horse chestnuts are saponins and escin, which is a mixture of two glycosides, whose aglycons are derived from proteoescigenin, while the sugars represent either glucoronic acid of two molecules D-glucose. Said glycosides differ in the acyl groups in the C22-position.
  • ⁇ -escin represents an amorphous powder, which melts between 225 and 227 °C and is easily soluble in water
  • ⁇ -escin (which is also called flogencyl) forms flakes, which are practically water-insoluble, but can be dissolved in alcohol.
  • Salix alba Main constituents of Salix alba are phenolic glycosides and especially salicylates like e.g. salicin, salicortin and tremulacin:
  • devil's craw Hardpagophytum procumbens
  • devil's craw Hardpagophytum procumbens
  • pigments component b2
  • suitable pigments component b2
  • the preferred pigments are selected from the group consisting of chlorophyll, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, chromium oxides, chromium hydroxides, ultramarines, indogo pigments, manganese ammonium pyrophosphates, copper phtalocyanines and mica, since these compounds offer an additional benefit when the capsules are applied to skin.
  • Vitamines are usually chosen from the group consisting of carotinoids and ascorbic acid.
  • carotinoids usually carotines are understood.
  • Carotins represent a group of unsaturated terpenes comprising 11 or 12 double bonds.
  • the three isomeric ⁇ -, ⁇ - und ⁇ -carotines which all show the same carbon chain skeleton having 9 conjugated double bonds, 8 methyl groups in the side chain (including ring structures) and a ⁇ -ionon moiety at the end of the molecule and originally have been considered to be a single component.
  • a couple of carotins are shown which come also into account, although this list must be regarded as illustrating, but not limiting:
  • Derivatives of carotins comprising oxygen are usually called xanthophylls and are based on a skeleton of 8 isopren units (tetraterpenes).
  • Typical examples are (3R,6'R)- ⁇ - ⁇ -Carotin-3,3'-diol (Lutein), (3R,3'S,5'R)-3,3'-Dihydroxy- ⁇ , ⁇ -carotin-6-on (Capsanthin), 9'-cis-6,6'-Diapocarotindiacid-6'-methylester (Bixin), (3S,3'S,5R,5'R)-3,3'-Dihydroxy- ⁇ , ⁇ -carotin-6,6'-dion (Capsorubin) and 3S,3'S)-3,3'-Dihydroxy- ⁇ , ⁇ '-carotin-4,4'-dion (Astaxanthin).
  • carotinoids which can be useful for the present invention are for example 3,7-Dimethyl-9-(2,6,6-trimethyl-1-cyclohexeny)-2,4,6,8-nonatetraen-1-ol (Retinol, Vitamine A1) and 3,7-Dimethyl-9-(2,6,6-trimethyl-1-cyclohexenyl)-2,4,6,8-nonatetraenal (Retinal, Vitamine A1-Aldehyde).
  • said active principles may be present in amounts from about 0.01 to about 25, preferably 0.1 to 15 and more preferably 1 to 10 % b.w. It has been found advantageous for the suggested purpose that the relation by weight between said exfoliating agents, preferably said bamboo extracts and said components (b) is from about 10 : 90 to about 99:1 preferably 25 : 75 to 75 : 25 and more preferably 40 : 60 to 60 : 40, while the relation by weight between the plant extracts (b1) on one hand and said pigments (b2) and/or vitamins (b3) on the other is from about 99 : 1 to about 50 : 50, and pref erably 95 : 5 to 75 : 25.
  • Microcapsules are understood to be spherical aggregates with a diameter of about 0.1 to about 5 mm which contain at least one solid or liquid core surrounded by at least one continuous membrane. More precisely, they are finely dispersed liquid or solid phases coated with film-forming polymers, in the production of which the polymers are deposited onto the material to be encapsulated after emulsification and coacervation or interfacial polymerization. In another process, liquid active principles are absorbed in a matrix (“microsponge”) and, as microparticles, may be additionally coated with film-forming polymers.
  • the microscopically small capsules also known as nanocapsules, can be dried in the same way as powders.
  • single-core microcapsules there are also multiple-core aggregates, also known as microspheres, which contain two or more cores distributed in the continuous membrane material.
  • multiple-core aggregates also known as microspheres, which contain two or more cores distributed in the continuous membrane material.
  • single-core or multiple-core microcapsules may be surrounded by an additional second, third etc. membrane.
  • the membrane may consist of natural, semi-synthetic or synthetic materials.
  • Natural membrane materials are, for example, gum arabic, agar agar, agarose, maltodextrins, alginic acid and salts thereof, for example sodium or calcium alginate, fats and fatty acids, cetyl alcohol, collagen, chitosan, lecithins, gelatin, albumin, shellac, polysaccharides, such as starch or dextran, polypeptides, protein hydrolyzates, sucrose and waxes.
  • Semi-synthetic membrane materials are inter alia chemically modified celluloses, more particularly cellulose esters and ethers, for example cellulose acetate, ethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose, and starch derivatives, more particularly starch ethers and esters.
  • Synthetic membrane materials are, for example, polymers, such as polyacrylates, polyamides, polyvinyl alcohol or polyvinyl pyrrolidone.
  • microcapsules examples are the following commercial products (the membrane material is shown in brackets) Hallcrest Microcapsules (gelatin, gum arabic), Coletica Thalaspheres (maritime collagen), Lipotec Millicapseln (alginic acid, agar agar), Induchem Unispheres (lactose, microcrystalline cellulose, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose), Unicetin C30 (lactose, microcrystalline cellulose, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose), Kobo Glycospheres (modified starch, fatty acid esters, phospholipids), Softspheres (modified agar agar) and Kuhs Probiol Nanospheres (phospholipids).
  • the active principles are released from the microcapsules by mechanical, thermal, chemical or enzymatic destruction of the membrane, normally during the use of the preparations containing the microcapsules. From the state of the art also a huge number of different processes for the encapsulation of active principles are known: WO 99/043426 ; WO 01/001928 ; WO 01/001929 ; WO 01/066240 ; WO 01/066241 ; WO 01/098578 ; WO 02/0178859 ; WO 02/0178868 ; WO 02/076607 ; WO 02/076606 ; WO 02/077359 ; WO 02/077360 ; WO 03/022419 ; WO 03/093571 ; WO 03/092664 ; WO 03/092880 ; WO 04/091555 ; WO 04/106621 ; EP 1064911 B1 ; EP 1064912 B1 ; EP 1077060 B
  • a preferred process for the encapsulation of active principles according to the present invention is characterised in that it comprises the steps of
  • anionic and cationic polymers in steps (a) and (c) can be exchanged.
  • preferred gel formers are substances which are capable of forming gels in aqueous solution at temperatures above 40° C.
  • Typical examples of such gel formers are heteropolysaccharides and proteins.
  • Preferred thermogelling heteropolysaccharides are agaroses which may be present in the form of the agar agar obtainable from red algae, even together with up to 30% by weight of non-gel-forming agaropectins.
  • the principal constituent of agaroses are linear polysaccharides of Galactose and 3,6-anhydro-L-galactose with alternate 1,3- and 1,4-glycosidic bonds.
  • the heteropolysaccharides preferably have a molecular weight of 110,000 to 160,000 and are both odourless and tasteless. Suitable alternatives are pectins, xanthans (including xanthan gum) and mixtures thereof. Other preferred types are those which in 1% by weight aqueous solution still form gels that do not melt below 80° C. and solidify again above 40° C. Examples from the group of thermogelling proteins are the various gelatines.
  • alginic acid is a mixture of carboxyl-containing polysaccharides with the following idealized monomer unit:
  • the average molecular weight of the alginic acid or the alginates is in the range from 150,000 to 250,000.
  • Salts of alginic acid and complete and partial neutralization products thereof are understood in particular to be the alkali metal salts, preferably sodium alginate ("algin") and the ammonium and alkaline earth metal salts.
  • Mixed alginates for example sodium/magnesium or sodium/calcium alginates, are particularly preferred.
  • anionic chitosan derivatives for example the carboxylation and above all succinylation products are also suitable for this purpose.
  • Other suitable anionic polymers are carboxymethylcelluloses, gellan gum and acrylates.
  • Chitosans are biopolymers which belong to the group of hydrocolloids. Chemically, they are partly de-acetylated chitins differing in their molecular weights which contain the following ⁇ idealized - monomer unit:
  • chitosans are cationic biopolymers under these conditions.
  • the positively charged chitosans are capable of interacting with oppositely charged surfaces and are therefore used in cosmetic hair- care and body-care products and pharmaceutical preparations.
  • Chitosans are produced from chitin, preferably from the shell residues of crustaceans which are available in large quantities as inexpensive raw materials.
  • the chitin is normally first de-proteinized by addition of bases, demineralized by addition of mineral acids and, finally, de-acetylated by addition of strong bases, the molecular weights being distributed over a broad spectrum.
  • Preferred types are those which are disclosed in German patent applications DE 4442987 A1 and DE 19537001 A1 (Henkel ) and which have an average molecular weight of 10,000 to 500,000 Dalton or 800,000 to 1,200,000 Dalton and/or a Brookfield viscosity (1 % by weight in glycolic acid) below 5,000 mPas, a degree of de-acetylation of 80 to 88 % and an ash content of less than 0.3% by weight.
  • the chitosans are generally used in the form of their salts, preferably as glycolates.
  • Other suitable cationic polymers are those known for use especially for cosmetics, preferably polyquternium or gelatin.
  • a 1 to 10 and preferably 2 to 5% by weight aqueous solution of the gel former, preferably agar agar, is normally prepared and heated under reflux.
  • a second aqueous solution containing the cationic polymer, preferably chitosan, in quantities of 0.1 to 2 and preferably 0.25 to 0.5% by weight and the active principle in quantities of 0.1 to 25 and preferably 0.25 to 10% by weight is added in the boiling heat, preferably at 80 to 100 ° C.; this mixture is called the matrix.
  • the charging of the microcapsules with active principles may also comprise 0.1 to 25% by weight, based on the weight of the capsules.
  • water-insoluble constituents for example inorganic pigments
  • inorganic pigments may also be added at this stage to adjust viscosity, generally in the form of aqueous or aqueous/alcoholic dispersions.
  • emulsifiers and/or solubilisers to the matrix.
  • the matrix After its preparation from gel former, cationic polymer and active principle, the matrix optionally is very finely dispersed in an oil phase with intensive shearing in order to produce small particles in the subsequent encapsulation process. It has proved to be particularly advantageous in this regard to heat the matrix to temperatures in the range from 40 to 60° C while the oil phase is cooled to 10 to 20° C.
  • the actual encapsulation i.e. formation of the membrane by contacting the cationic polymer in the matrix with the anionic polymers, takes place in the third step.
  • the resulting aqueous preparations generally have a microcapsule content of 1 to 10% by weight.
  • the solution of the polymers can contain other ingredients, for example emulsifiers or preservatives.
  • microcapsules with a mean diameter of preferably 1 to 3 mm are obtained. It is advisable to sieve the capsules to ensure a uniform size distribution.
  • the microcapsules thus obtained may have any shape within production-related limits, but are preferably substantially spherical.
  • Two other feature of the present invention are related to cosmetic compositions, more particularly skin care compositions comprising said new microcapsules and the use of said microcapsules for making cosmetic compositions, particularly skin care compositions.
  • the preparations according to the invention may contain surfactants, oil bodies, emulsifiers, superfatting agents, pearlising waxes, consistency factors, polymers, silicone compounds, waxes, stabilizers, primary and secondary sun protection agents, biogenic agents, film formers, swelling agents, hydrotropes, preservatives, solubilizers, perfume oils, dyes and the like as additional auxiliaries and additives.
  • anionic and/or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are soaps, alkyl benzenesulfonates, alkanesulfonates, olefin sulfonates, alkylether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, methyl ester sulfonates, sulfofatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfates, hydroxy mixed ether sulfates, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide (ether) sulfates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxy
  • anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they may have a conventional homolog distribution although they preferably have a narrow-range homolog distribution.
  • Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines.
  • the surfactants mentioned are all known compounds. Information on their structure and production can be found in relevant synoptic works, cf. for example J. Falbe (ed.), "Surfactants in Consumer Products", Springer Verlag, Berlin, 1987, pages 54 to 124 or J.
  • the percentage content of surfactants in the preparations may be from 0.1 to 10% by weight and is preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, based on the preparation.
  • Suitable oil bodies which form constituents of the O/W emulsions, are, for example, Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms, esters of linear C 6 -C 22 -fatty acids with linear or branched C 6 -C 22 -fatty alcohols or esters of branched C 6 -C 13 -carboxylic acids with linear or branched C 6 -C 22 -fatty alcohols, such as, for example, myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, myristyl isostearate, myristyl oleate, myristyl behenate, myristyl erucate, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, cetyl isostearate, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, cetyl erucate, stearyl myristate
  • esters of linear C 6 -C 22 -fatty acids with branched alcohols in particular 2-ethylhexanol, esters of C 18 -C 38 - alkylhydroxy carboxylic acids with linear or branched C 6 -C 22 -fatty alcohols, in particular Dioctyl Malate, esters of linear and/or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as, for example, propylene glycol, dimerdiol or trimertriol) and/or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C 6 -C 10 -fatty acids, liquid mono-/di-/triglyceride mixtures based on C 6 -C 18 -fatty acids, esters of C 6 - C 22 -fatty alcohols and/or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, in particular benzoic acid, esters of C 2 - C 12 -dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols having 1 to 22 carbon
  • Finsolv® TN linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers having 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, such as, for example, dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol® OE), ring-opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils (cyclomethicones, silicone methicone grades, etc.) and/or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, such as, for example, squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes.
  • Emulsifiers such as, for example, squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes.
  • surfactants may also be added to the preparations as emulsifiers, including for example:
  • the addition products of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide onto fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols, glycerol mono- and diesters and sorbitan mono- and diesters of fatty acids or onto castor oil are known commercially available products. They are homologue mixtures of which the average degree of alkoxylation corresponds to the ratio between the quantities of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide and substrate with which the addition reaction is carried out. C 12/18 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of addition products of ethylene oxide onto glycerol are known as lipid layer enhancers for cosmetic formulations.
  • the preferred emulsifiers are described in more detail as follows:
  • Suitable partial glycerides are hydroxystearic acid monoglyceride, hydroxystearic acid diglyceride, isostearic acid monoglyceride, isostearic acid diglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid diglyceride, ricinoleic acid monoglyceride, ricinoleic acid diglyceride, linoleic acid monoglyceride, linoleic acid diglyceride, linolenic acid monoglyceride, linolenic acid diglyceride, erucic acid monoglyceride, erucic acid diglyceride, tartaric acid monoglyceride, tartaric acid diglyceride, citric acid monoglyceride, citric acid diglyceride, malic acid monoglyceride, malic acid diglyceride and technical mixtures thereof which may still contain small quantities of triglyceride from the production process. Addition products of 1
  • Suitable sorbitan esters are sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan diisostearate, sorbitan triisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan dioleate, sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan monoerucate, sorbitan sesquierucate, sorbitan dierucate, sorbitan trierucate, sorbitan monoricinoleate, sorbitan sesquiricinoleate, sorbitan diricinoleate, sorbitan triricinoleate, sorbitan monohydroxystearate, sorbitan sesquihydroxystearate, sorbitan dihydroxystearate, sorbitan trihydroxystearate, sorbitan monotartrate, sorbitan sesquitartrate, sorbitan ditartrate, sorbitan tritartrate, sorbitan monocitrate, sorbit
  • Suitable polyglycerol esters are Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls® PGPH), Polyglycerin-3-Diisostearate (Lameform® TGI), Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate (Isolan® GI 34), Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate, Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate (Isolan® PDI), Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Tego Care® 450), Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina®), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (Polyglycerol Caprate T2010/90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether (Chimexane® NL), Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate (Cremophor® GS 32) and Polyglyceryl Polyricinoleate (Admul® WOL 1403), Polyglyceryl Dimerate I
  • polystyrene resin examples include the mono-, di- and triesters of trimethylol propane or pentaerythritol with lauric acid, cocofatty acid, tallow fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid and the like optionally reacted with 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide.
  • Typical anionic emulsifiers are aliphatic C 12-22 fatty acids, such as palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid for example, and C 12-22 dicarboxylic acids, such as azelaic acid or sebacic acid for example.
  • Suitable emulsifiers are zwitterionic surfactants.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N,N-dimethyl ammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethyl ammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazolines containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and cocoacylaminoethyl hydroxyethyl carboxymethyl glycinate.
  • betaines such as the N-alkyl-N,N-dimethyl ammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethyl ammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylamin
  • Ampholytic surfactants are also suitable emulsifiers.
  • Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C 8/18 alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one ⁇ COOH- or -SO 3 H- group in the molecule and which are capable of forming inner salts.
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-alkyl glycines, N-alkyl propionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropyl glycines, N-alkyl taurines, N-alkyl sarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids containing around 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group.
  • Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethyl aminopropionate and C 12/18 acyl sarcosine.
  • Superfatting agents may be selected from such substances as, for example, lanolin and lecithin and also polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides, the fatty acid alkanolamides also serving as foam stabilizers.
  • the consistency factors mainly used are fatty alcohols or hydroxyfatty alcohols containing 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and also partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxyfatty acids.
  • a combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and/or fatty acid N-methyl glucamides of the same chain length and/or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates is preferably used.
  • Suitable thickeners are polymeric thickeners, such as Aerosil® types (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, more especially xanthan gum, guar-guar, agar-agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, also relatively high molecular weight polyethylene glycol monoesters and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates (for example Carbopols® [Goodrich] or Synthalens® [Sigma]), polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone, surfactants such as, for example, ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols, for example pentaerythritol or trimethylol propane, narrow-range fatty alcohol ethoxylates and electrolytes, such as sodium chloride and ammonium chloride.
  • Aerosil® types hydrophilic silicas
  • Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives such as, for example, the quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose obtainable from Amerchol under the name of Polymer JR 400®, cationic starch, copolymers of diallyl ammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl imidazole polymers such as, for example, Luviquat® (BASF), condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides such as, for example, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen (Lamequat® L, Grünau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers such as, for example, amodimethicone, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylaminohy-droxypropyl diethylenetriamine (Cartaretine®, Sandoz), copolymers of
  • Suitable anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers are, for example, vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate/butyl maleate/isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinylether/maleic anhydride copolymers and esters thereof, uncrosslinked and polyol-crosslinked polyacrylic acids, acrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride/acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide/methyl methacrylate/tert.-butylaminoethyl methacrylate/2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinyl caprolactam terpolymers and optional
  • Suitable pearlising waxes are, for example, alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol distearate; fatty acid alkanolamides, especially cocofatty acid diethanolamide; partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; esters of polybasic, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; fatty compounds, such as for example fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates which contain in all at least 24 carbon atoms, especially laurone and distearylether; fatty acids, such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms and/or polyols containing 2 to 15 carbon atoms and
  • Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethyl polysiloxanes, methylphenyl polysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and amino-, fatty acid-, alcohol-, polyether-, epoxy-, fluorine-, glycoside- and/or alkyl-modified silicone compounds which may be both liquid and resin-like at room temperature.
  • Other suitable silicone compounds are simethicones which are mixtures of dimethicones with an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates.
  • waxes may also be present in the preparations, more especially natural waxes such as, for example, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, espartograss wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti, lanolin (wool wax), uropygial fat, ceresine, ozocerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes and microwaxes; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes) such as, for example, montan ester waxes, sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes such as, for example, polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes.
  • natural waxes such as, for example, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, espartograss wax, cork wax, guarum
  • Metal salts of fatty acids such as, for example, magnesium, aluminium and/or zinc stearate or ricinoleate may be used as stabilizers.
  • UV-B filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
  • oil-soluble substances include
  • Typical UV-A filters are, in particular, derivatives of benzoyl methane such as, for example, 1-(4'-tert.butylphenyl)-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)-propane-1,3-dione, 4-tert.butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (Parsol® 1789) or 1-phenyl-3-(4'-isopropylphenyl)-propane-1,3-dione and the enamine compounds (BASF).
  • the UV-A and UV-B filters may of course also be used in the form of mixtures.
  • Particularly favourable combinations consist of the derivatives of benzoyl methane, for example 4-tert.butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (Parsol® 1789) and 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Octocrylene®), in combination with esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester and/or 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester and/or 4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester.
  • benzoyl methane for example 4-tert.butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (Parsol® 1789) and 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Octocrylene®)
  • Water-soluble filters such as, for example, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts thereof.
  • Secondary sun protection factors of the antioxidant type interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is initiated when UV rays penetrate into the skin.
  • Typical examples are amino acids (for example glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophane) and derivatives thereof, imidazoles (for example urocanic acid) and derivatives thereof, peptides, such as D,L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and derivatives thereof (for example anserine), carotinoids, carotenes (for example alpha-carotene, betacarotene, lycopene) and derivatives thereof, chlorogenic acid and derivatives thereof, liponic acid and derivatives thereof (for example dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (for example thioredoxine, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and glyco
  • amino acids for example glycine, histidine, tyrosine, try
  • biogenic agents are, for example, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, (deoxy)ribonucleic acid and fragmentation products thereof, ⁇ -glucans, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts, for example prune extract, bambara nut extract, and vitamin complexes.
  • Suitable anti-microbial agents are, in principle, all substances effective against Gram-positive bacteria, such as, for example, 4- hydroxybenzoic acid and its salts and esters, N-(4-chlorophenyl)-N'-(3,4- dichlorophenyl)urea, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy-diphenyl ether (triclosan), 4-chloro-3,5-dimethyl-phenol, 2,2'-methylenebis(6-bromo-4- chlorophenol), 3-methyl-4-(1-methylethyl)phenol, 2-benzyl-4-chloro-phenol, 3-(4-chlorophenoxy)-1,2-propanediol, 3-iodo-2-propynyl butylcarbamate, chlorhexidine, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide (TTC), antibacterial fragrances, thymol, thyme oil, eugenol, oil of cloves, menthol, mint oil,
  • Standard film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid and salts thereof and similar compounds.
  • hydrotropes for example ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols
  • Suitable polyols preferably contain 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups.
  • the polyols may contain other functional groups, more especially amino groups, or may be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are
  • Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid and the other classes of compounds listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Kosmetikverowski ("Cosmetics Directive").
  • Suitable perfume oils are mixtures of natural and synthetic perfumes.
  • Natural perfumes include the extracts of blossoms (lily, lavender, rose, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, orange), roots (nutmeg, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), woods (pinewood, sandalwood, guaiac wood, cedarwood, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemon grass, sage, thyme), needles and branches (spruce, fir, pine, dwarf pine), resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax).
  • Typical synthetic perfume compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type.
  • perfume compounds of the ester type are benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert.butyl cyclohexylacetate, linalyl acetate, dimethyl benzyl carbinyl acetate, phenyl ethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethylmethyl phenyl glycinate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate.
  • Ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether while aldehydes include, for example, the linear alkanals containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal.
  • suitable ketones are the ionones, ⁇ -isomethylionone and methyl cedryl ketone.
  • Suitable alcohols are anethol, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol.
  • the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams. However, it is preferred to use mixtures of different perfume compounds which, together, produce an agreeable perfume.
  • Other suitable perfume oils are essential oils of relatively low volatility which are mostly used as aroma components. Examples are sage oil, camomile oil, clove oil, melissa oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, lime-blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil, galbanum oil, ladanum oil and lavendin oil.
  • bergamot oil dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzyl acetone, cyclamen aldehyde, linalool, Boisambrene Forte, Ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, citrus oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allylamyl glycolate, cyclovertal, lavendin oil, clary oil, damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, evemyl, iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, rom
  • Suitable dyes are any of the substances suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes as listed, for example, in the publication " Kosmetician Anlagenrbesch” of the Farbstoffkommission der Deutschen Deutschen Anlagenstician, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pages 81 to 106 .
  • Examples include cochineal red A (C.I. 16255), patent blue V (C.I. 42051), indigotin (C.I. 73015), chlorophyllin (C.I. 75810), quinoline yellow (C.I. 47005), titanium dioxide (C.I. 77891), indanthrene blue RS (C.I. 69800) and madder lake (C.I. 58000).
  • Luminol may also be present as a luminescent dye. These dyes are normally used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1 % by weight, based on the mixture as a whole.
  • the total percentage content of auxiliaries and additives may be from 1 to 50% by weight and is preferably from 5 to 40% by weight, based on the particular composition.
  • the compositions may be produced by standard hot or cold processes.
  • the matrix thus obtained was adjusted to a temperature of 50 °C and dispersed under vigorous stirring into a 2.5fold volume of paraffin oil having a temperature of about 15 °C. Subsequently the beads that were formed were filtered and added to a 0.5% by weight chitosan solution (Hydagen® DCMF, Cognis Deutschland GmbH & Co. KG, Düsseldorf/FRG). To obtain microcapsules of the same diameter, the preparations were then sieved and finally mixed with preserved water for conservation.
  • a mixture consisting of 1g agar agar, 0.5 g Phenonip, 25 g glycerol, 10 g bamboo extract, 2 g Citrus Aurantium extract, 5 g of a pigment mixture of iron oxide and mica (1:1), and 0.2 g sodium alginate in 28 g water was dropped by means of a Mini-Droppo equipment (Rieter Automatik GmbH, FRG; diameter of the nozzle: 0.8 mm) into a bath comprising an aqueous solution of calcium chloride (1 % b.w.) and chitosan (0.1 % b.w.). After filtration, the beads were sieved and finally mixed with preserved water for conservation.
  • Table 1 discloses a couple of skin care compositions comprising the capsules obtained according to Examples 1 and 2.
  • Table 1 Skin care compositions (water, preservatives add to 100 % b.w.) Composition (INCI) A B C D E Emulgade® SE Glyceryl Sterate (and) Ceteareth 12/20 (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetyl Palmitate 5,0 5,0 4,0 - - Eumulgin® B1 Ceteareth-12 - - 1,0 - - Lameform® TGI Polyglyceryl-3 Isostearate - - - 4,0 - Dehymuls® PGPH Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate - - - - 4,0 Monomuls® 90-O 18 Glyceryl Oleate - - - 2,0 - Cetiol® HE PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate - - - - 2,0 Cetiol® OE Dicaprylyl Et

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Claims (15)

  1. Mikrokapsel mit einem mittleren Durchmesser von 0,1 bis 5 mm, einer Membran und einer Matrix, die mindestens einen Wirkstoff umfasst, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass es sich bei dem Wirkstoff um eine Peeling-Substanz handelt.
  2. Mikrokapsel nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass es sich bei dem Wirkstoff um eine Mischung aus
    (a) Peeling-Substanzen und
    (b1) Pflanzenextrakten und/oder
    (b2) Pigmenten und/oder
    (b3) Vitaminen
    handelt.
  3. Mikrokapsel nach Anspruch 1 oder 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass es sich bei den Peeling-Substanzen (Komponente a) um Silikate oder silikatreiche Pflanzenextrakte handelt.
  4. Mikrokapsel nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche 2 bis 3, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass es sich bei dem Pflanzenextrakt um einen Bambusextrakt handelt.
  5. Mikrokapsel nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche 2 bis 4, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Pflanzenextrakte (Komponente b1) aus der Gruppe Ginkgo biloba, Oleacea europensis, Camilia sinensis (Grüntee oder Weißtee) Glyzyrrhiza glabra, Vaccinium myrtillus, Trifolium pratense, Litchi sinensis, Vitis, vinifera, Brassica oleracea, Punica granatum, Petroselinium crispum, Centella asiatica, Passiflora incarnata, Medicago sativa, Valeriana officinalis, Castanea sativa, Salix alba, Hapagophytum procumben, Aloe Barbadensis, Melissa officinalis und Citrus aurantium stammen.
  6. Mikrokapsel nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche 2 bis 5, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Pigmente (Komponente b2) aus der Gruppe Chlorophyll, Titandioxid, Zinkoxid, Eisenoxid, Chromoxide, Chromhydroxide, Ultramarin-Verbindungen, Indigopigmente, Manganammoniumpyrophosphate, Kupferphthalocyanine und Glimmer stammen.
  7. Mikrokapsel nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche 2 bis 6, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass es sich bei den Vitaminen (Komponente b3) um Carotinoide und/oder Ascorbinsäure handelt.
  8. Mikrokapsel nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche 1 bis 7, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Wirkstoffe in Mengen von 0,01 bis 25 Gew.-% vorliegen.
  9. Mikrokapsel nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche 2 bis 8, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das Gewichtsverhältnis zwischen Komponente (a) und (b) von ungefähr 10:90 bis ungefähr 99:1 beträgt.
  10. Mikrokapsel nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche 2 bis 9, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das Gewichtsverhältnis zwischen Komponente (b1) einerseits und Komponente (b2) und/oder (b3) andererseits von ungefähr 99:1 bis ungefähr 50:50 beträgt.
  11. Mikrokapsel nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche 1 bis 10, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Hülle durch Koazervation, Fällung oder Polykondensation eines anionischen und eines kationischen Monomers oder Polymers entsteht.
  12. Mikrokapsel nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche 1 bis 11, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die anionischen Polymere aus der Reihe Alginate, Carboxymethylcellulosen, Gellan-Gummi oder Acrylate stammen.
  13. Mikrokapsel nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche 1 bis 12, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die kationischen Polymere aus der Reihe Chitosan, Polyquaternium oder Gelatin stammen.
  14. Kosmetikzusammensetzung, umfassend Mikrokapseln nach Anspruch 1.
  15. Verwendung von Mikrokapseln nach Anspruch 1 für die Herstellung von Kosmetikzusammensetzungen.
EP05012065A 2005-06-04 2005-06-04 Mikrokapseln Expired - Fee Related EP1738738B1 (de)

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EP4056165A3 (de) * 2021-02-19 2022-10-05 Le Rouge Français Färbender rohstoff aus pflanzen, der durch ein verfahren gewonnen wird, das eine besondere extraktion und eine besondere umhüllung umfasst

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