EP1651180A1 - Skin preparation - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a preparation containing urea and gamma -linolenic acid, which contributes to the well-being of the skin and can be applied to the latter. The benefits to the skin obtained by said preparation exceed cosmetic or purely sensory effects. The invention also relates to the use of said preparation, to a skin treatment method and to a substrate impregnated with said preparation.

Description

 "Preparation for the skin"

The invention relates to a preparation which is beneficial to the wellbeing of the skin, preferably skin lotion, its use, and a method for skin treatment, and a substrate impregnated with the agent.

With an area of up to 2 m, the skin is the largest human body organ and is exposed to a wide range of harmful environmental influences. The number of people with sensitive skin and dermatological problems, which can range from mild skin irritation to sensitization, allergies to neurodermatitis, is increasing for a variety of reasons, not least as a result of an excessive need for hygiene. Accordingly, people's desire for cosmetic or dermatological preparations that prevent or remedy such problems is increasing.

However, it is often the case that irritated or irritated or sensitized skin becomes even more irritated by contact with conventional cosmetic or dermatological preparations such as skin lotions or creams.

It was therefore an object of the present invention to provide a preparation which is beneficial to the wellbeing of the skin and is to be applied to the skin, preferably skin loosening. tion, with improved tolerability, which prevents or alleviates skin irritation and skin irritation, and has a long-lasting effect.

The object of this invention is therefore a preparation which is beneficial to the skin and is to be applied to the skin, preferably skin lotion, characterized in that it contains one or more skin-protecting and / or skin-healing active substances and urea, with the proviso that the, preferably in the oils contained in the preparation as glycerol esters, γ-linolenic acid content above 0.25% by weight, better above 0.35% by weight, preferably above 0.75% by weight, in particular above 1% by weight, preferably above 1.5% by weight, more preferably over 2% by weight, even more preferably over 2.5% by weight, particularly preferably over 3% by weight, very particularly preferably over 4% by weight, considerably preferred is above 5% by weight, very considerably preferably above 6% by weight and very preferably above 7% by weight, and that the content of at least twice, preferably polyunsaturated fatty acids, preferably in the oils and / or contained in the preparation or fats as a glycerol residue it bound, more than 0.5% by weight, preferably between 1% by weight and 40% by weight, preferably between 2% by weight and 30% by weight, in particular between 3% by weight and 20% by weight .-%, based in each case on the entire preparation. In a preferred embodiment, a γ-linolenic acid content of the preparation of 15% by weight, preferably 12.5% by weight, in particular 10% by weight, is not exceeded. The percentages by weight refer to the weight of the entire preparation.

The agent according to the invention advantageously enables active skin care in the form of stimulating skin regeneration, supporting skin physiology and strengthening the skin's barrier function.

It is also advantageous that the agent helps the skin to renew or keep its natural protective acid mantle intact. The pH of the skin surface depends on sweat secretion, bacterial flora and the like. Talgzu- composition. Depending on the region of the skin, the pH is between 4 and 7, in particular around 5.5 for healthy skin.

It is also advantageous to help the skin to store sufficient moisture through the agent. It is also advantageous to supply the skin with healing agents via the agent.

It is advantageous in this way to enable a supportive and / or prophylactic treatment of healthy and / or irritated and / or sensitized and / or otherwise damaged skin, the natural skin flora of humans not being adversely affected by the ingredients of the agent, but advantageously is supported in their self-regulatory powers.

The term "beneficial to the wellbeing of the skin" in the sense of this invention means an effect which goes far beyond mere cosmetic skin care or sensory perception.

The term skin healing or the attribute skin healing can be most easily defined in the context of this invention via the condition of healthy human skin. Healthy human skin is characterized by the fact that its intact acid coat provides sufficient protection against microorganisms, germs and pathogens, that its buffering capacity and its alkali neutralizing capacity are sufficient to ward off harmful influences from surrounding fluids, that it acts as a barrier against the loss of The body's own substances (e.g. water, natural fats, electrolytes) offer that there is extensive freedom from redness and that there is no damage to skin such as cuts, abrasions and burns, irritation, inflammation and allergies, and that they are not cracked is still dry. Healthy skin is also characterized by the fact that it has a depot function for fat, water and blood and an important role in metabolism. Is the skin unable to perform the above functions or does it show obvious damage or if the skin is itchy, it can no longer be classified as healthy. Skin healing in the context of the present invention is now everything that helps the skin to return to its original state. Everything that stimulates, trains, supports and encourages the skin's self-regulating powers is also curative, so that it is able to fulfill its functions by returning to its natural state of equilibrium. Furthermore, the term skin healing in the context of this invention means all influences which lead to obvious skin diseases such as eczema, rashes, redness, itching, swelling, blistering, oozing, crusts in various forms being at least alleviated, if not cured ,

The term skin protection in turn means everything that is necessary to maintain the normal performance of the skin with regard to its functions under specific stress situations and beyond its own protective mechanisms. This also clearly differentiates this term from skin care, because skin care only achieves a cosmetic benefit in terms of sensory needs. B. the softness or gloss under normal conditions. However, skin protection supports the skin with additional agents that help the skin to fulfill its diverse functions, even under adverse conditions. Such adverse conditions can e.g. B. friction, cold, heat, UV radiation, aggressive ambient fluids, contact with skin-irritating materials.

The urea contained in the agents according to the invention promotes skin health in a variety of ways, since it can have an antimicrobial, water-binding, itch-relieving, skin-flaking, skin-smoothing effect and can inhibit excessive cell growth. It can also serve as a moisturizing factor for the skin, ie it can help the skin to retain moisture. In a preferred embodiment, the agents contain at least 3% by weight, preferably at least 4% by weight, in particular at least 6% by weight, of urea, in each case based on the total composition.

γ-Linolenic acid is present in the preparation in quantities of at least 0.25% by weight, based on the entire preparation, preferably bound as glycerol esters in the oils contained in the preparation. When applied externally, γ-linolenic acid and / or its full or partial glycerol esters help regulate and normalize trans-epidermal water loss through the skin and support normal skin functions.

At least twice, preferably polyunsaturated fatty acid is contained in amounts of at least 0.5% by weight, based on the total preparation, in the preparation, preferably bound as glycerol esters in the oils and / or fats contained in the preparation. Compared to saturated fatty acids, unsaturated fatty acids and / or their full or partial esters of glycerin have significant advantages. Saturated fatty acids are primarily broken down by the human organism in order to obtain energy and carbon compounds. However, the body uses the at least two, preferably polyunsaturated fatty acids and / or their full or partial glycerol esters in particular to produce regulating, short-lived hormones, to maintain the immune system and to build new cell structures such as e.g. Membranes, since degraded or expelled cells are renewed tirelessly. So these unsaturated fatty acids and / or their full or partial glycerol esters have a very beneficial effect on the skin even when used externally.

Overall, the agents according to the invention offer the following advantages: The skin regeneration is supported or activated or stimulated by the agents. The agents do not help the skin to dry out. The skin is protected from premature aging. The skin is smoothed and cared for. The agents have an antiseptic effect. The agents support wound and skin healing. The agents alleviate skin irritation and itching. The agents help to protect the skin's protective acid mantle bilize. The agents produce an improved feeling on the skin that is perceptible over a very long period of time and give the skin an increased cosmetic elegance. The agents are characterized by excellent skin tolerance. The funds are absorbed quickly and have a long effect. The agents regulate trans-epidermal water loss through the skin and help to normalize it if necessary.

In a preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains only natural γ-linolenic acid sources, preferably hemp oil, borage oil, evening primrose oil, the core oil of black currant, echium oil, trichodesma oil and / or black cumin oil act as a γ-linolenic acid source. The seed oils of other species from the families of the Boraginaceae, Scrophulariaceae, Onagraceae and / or Saxifragaceae also serve as γ-linolenic acid sources in a preferred embodiment.

Hemp oil usually has, preferably bound as glycerol ester, γ-linolenic acid contents up to approx. 6% by weight, borage oil up to approx. 25% by weight, evening primrose oil up to approx. 10% by weight, the core oil of the black currant up to approx 20% by weight, black cumin oil to 1% by weight, echium oil to 10% by weight and trichodesm oil to 4% by weight. The γ-linolenic acid content depends on the respective cultivation of the vegetable raw material or on the seed variety, and can easily be higher or lower than the above-mentioned guide values.

The preferred oils hemp oil, echium oil, trichodesma oil, borage oil, evening primrose oil, the core oil of black currant and / or black cumin oil are not only characterized by their specific γ-linolenic acid content, but also by their respective minor or trace components, which are often found in the hundreds can go and sometimes work synergistically together. The beneficial effects of hemp oil, echium oil, trichodesm oil, borage oil, evening primrose oil, the core oil of black currant and / or beneficial to the skin Black cumin oil is additionally reinforced by these special minor or trace components.

Since hemp can contain tetrahydrocannabinol (THC), it is particularly advantageous if the hemp oil contained according to the invention is obtained from low-THC, preferably from THC-free hemp varieties, with low-THC hemp varieties having a THC content of less than 0.3% by weight. % exhibit. Suitable varieties are listed, for example, in the "Common EU Variety Catalog".

In a preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention is characterized in that at least one of the active substances contained has an antiseptic effect or contains at least one antiseptic substance.

In the context of this invention, the attribute of antiseptic activity means an effect which is beneficial to the self-regulating powers of human skin. This effectiveness is not in its form with the classic germicidal or germicidal agents such. B. phenols, halogens, alcohols, with which, for. B. skin u. To compare mucous membranes, wounds or even medical instruments to achieve asepsis (sterility).

Classic antiseptics include antimicrobial measures at the point of origin or at the point of entry of a possible infection or at the focus of infection on the surface of the body.

However, such a strong effectiveness is not sought in the context of the invention, since it would undoubtedly lead to the elimination of harmful germs or the like, but would also impair the natural skin flora of humans.

The particular advantage of the antiseptically active substances which can be used according to the invention results from a synergistic interaction of these substances with the general functional mechanisms of humans Skin, since these mildly antiseptic substances z. B. Reduce germs, including harmful germs, but do not destroy them completely, i.e. until they are sterile. So there are enough germs on the skin that are sufficient to train and strengthen the self-regulating powers of human skin. The general functional mechanisms of the skin are supported by the interaction of the skin's self-regulating powers with the antiseptic capacity of the active substances contained in the agent. This is of great advantage especially with regard to already irritated and / or otherwise damaged skin. In the case of already irritated and / or sensitized and / or otherwise damaged or even particularly sensitive skin, the skin's self-regulating powers are sometimes no longer able, if only temporarily, to ensure skin health on its own. These self-regulating forces are supported, trained and strengthened in synergistic interaction with the agents according to the invention and their use according to the invention.

In this way, the agent according to the invention supports the natural skin flora of humans.

In order not to impair the natural skin flora of humans, it is important to exclude as far as possible those substances that are strongly disinfectant or antiseptic, such as. B. glutaraldehyde, but at the same time have a high allergy potential and are irritating to the skin and mucous membranes.

Unexpectedly, compositions of such an embodiment serve their purpose particularly when the antiseptic agent is an oil, preferably an essential oil.

This antiseptically active oil is preferably essential oil, which is selected in particular from the group of Angeiica fine - Angelica archangelica, Anise - Pimpinella Anisum, Benzoe siam - Styrax tokinen- sis, Cabreuva - Myrocarpus fastigiatus, Cajeput - Melaleuca leucadendron, Cistus - Cistrus ladaniferus, Copaiba balsam - Copaifera reticulata, Costus root - Saussurea discolor, noble pine needle - Abies alba, Elemi - Canarium luzonicum, fennel - Foeniculum dulce spruce needle - Picea abies, geranium - Pelargonium camphora, leaves Immortelle (straw flower) Helichrysum ang., Extra ginger - Zingiber off., St. John's wort - Hypericum perforatum, jojoba, chamomile German - Matricaria recutita, chamomile blue fine - Matricaria chamomilla, chamomile Roman - Anthemis nobilis, chamomile wild - Ormensis multicaulis, carrot - Daucus carota, mountain pine - Pinus mugho, Lavandin - Lavendula hybrida, Litsea Cubeba - (May Chang), Manuka - Lep- tospermum scoparium, Melissa - Melissa officinalis, sea pine - Pinus pinaster ,, Myrrh - Commiphora molmol, Myrtle - Myrtus communis, Neem - Azadirachta, Niaouli - (MQV) Melaleuca quin. viridiflora, palmarosa - cymbopogom martini, patchouli - pogostemon patschuli, peru balsam - myroxylon balsamum var. pereirae, raventsara aromatica, rosemary rosmarinus officinalis, rosewood - aniba rosae odora, sage - salvia officinalis horsetail - achisafgarbeea - equisetaceae , Ribwort plantain - Plantago lanceolata, Styrax - Liquidambar orientalis, Tagetes (marigold) Tagetes patula, tea tree - Melaleuca alternifolia, Tolu balsam - Myroxylon balsamum L, Virginia cedar - Juniperus virginiana, Frankincense (Olibanum) - Boswellia carteri alba ,

Another advantage of the above-mentioned essential oils is their special multifunctionality, which, in addition to the mildly antiseptic activity described, results from a large number of other desirable organoleptic properties which can be attributed to these oils. In most cases, these oils are considered to have an expectorant effect, since they exert a mild, positive stimulus on the mucous membranes of the respiratory system. In addition, a desirable feeling of warmth may arise. Deodorant, pain-relieving, circulation-promoting, calming effects could be observed by the applicant in connection with the use of these designated oils according to the invention and recognized as particularly advantageous. There- The organoleptic properties of these oils are generally not shaped by the main components, but by the minor or trace components, which can often go into the hundreds and sometimes work together synergistically. Another advantage in connection with the oils mentioned is their harmonizing fragrance and fragrance, which in many cases leads to positive feelings in people.

In this way, the agent according to the invention not only supports the natural skin flora of humans, but also helps the human organism to additional advantages of the kind just described.

Against this background, tea tree oil in particular is of great advantage for the subject matter of the invention. In addition to its remarkable germicidal, antiseptic, fungicidal, antiviral, wound healing, anti-inflammatory, scarring effects, it has excellent skin tolerance and offers a wide range of other uses, for example with regard to the supportive treatment of colds or rheumatic diseases, gout, muscle pain. The rosemary oil is also particularly advantageous.

In a preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains terpene-containing plant extracts, preferably extracts from plants of the genera Leptospermum and Melaleuca from the family of the Myrtaceae and particularly preferably tea tree oil (extract from Melaleuca alternifolia) or oil from the kayeput tree (Melaleuca leucadendra). The extracts from the leaves or parts of plants of the plant genera Leptospermum and Melaleuca, the natural range of which is restricted to the subtropical coastal regions of New South Wales, are preferably obtained by steam distillation or extraction. Leaves of the Australian tea tree (Melaleuca alternifolia) are particularly preferably used as starting products. In a preferred embodiment, the invention Agents according to the invention characterized in that the terpene-containing plant extract is tea tree oil and is contained in the agent in an amount of 0.005-2% by weight.

The oils mentioned, hemp oil, borage oil, echium oil, trichodesma oil, evening primrose oil, the core oil of black currant and / or black cumin oil are skin-protecting and / or skin-healing active substances in the sense of the invention.

In a further particular embodiment, an additional skin-protecting substance is used in addition to one or more of these oils (hemp oil, borage oil, echium oil, trichodesma oil, evening primrose oil, seed oil of black currant and / or black cumin oil). This skin protecting substance is advantageously a skin protecting oil, e.g. B. also a carrier oil, especially selected from the group algae oil Oleum Phaeophyceae, aloe vera oil aloe vera brasiliana, apricot kernel oil Prunus armeniaca, arnica oil Arnica montana, avocado oil Persea americana, calendula oil Calendula officinalis, camellia oil Camellia oleiferus tinctor oil, tinel oil, distel peanut oil Arachis hypogaea, hazelnut oil Corylus avellana /, St. John's wort Hypericum perforatum, jojoba oil Simondsia chinensis, carrot oil Daucus carota, coconut oil Cocos nucifera, pumpkin seed oil Curcubita pepo, kukui nut oil Aleurites moluccana, macadamia nut oil Macadamia temifolia, almond oil Prunus dulcis, Meadowfoa- CEECS Limnanthes alba, olive oil Olea europaea, peach kernel oil Prunus persica, rapeseed oil Brassica oleifera, castor oil Ricinus communis, sesame oil Sesamium indi- cum, sunflower oil Helianthus annus, grape seed oil Vitis vinifera, walnut oil Juglans regia, wheat germ oil Triticum sativum, molina sirumata Kana sirum, Kita Passion flower oil Passiflora Incarnata, rice germ oil Oryza Sativa.

All of the oils just listed are natural emollients, ie agents that make body tissues softer and more supple and reduce the roughness of the skin. On the one hand, these oils have a skin-care effect. On the other hand, these oils have other specific effects that require a synergistic interact with the skin and its self-regulating powers and provide protection even under adverse conditions.

A particularly preferred oil for the purposes of this invention is hemp oil. Hemp oil, which has a high proportion of essential fatty acids and also usually contains up to 6% by weight of the valuable γ-linolenic acid (GLA), which is preferably bound as a glycerol ester, also has an anti-inflammatory, slightly pain-relieving, healing, nourishing effect, improves skin structure, prevents signs of aging , It improves tissue renewal processes and has a high regenerative effect on injured tissue. In addition, it can increase the care properties or other properties of other oils, in particular all oils explicitly mentioned here. Since essential fatty acids play a key role in maintaining the skin's barrier function because they help regulate and normalize transepidermal water loss through the skin, hemp oil plays a special role in the sense of this invention as a result of its high GLA content In the event of impaired transepidermal water loss, topical treatment with GLA leads to a sharp reduction in transepidermal water loss. In addition, hemp oil shows other positive effects on the human organism with regard to arteriosclerosis, rheumanoid artritis, diabetic neuropathy and even heart problems.

Another preferred oil for the purposes of this invention is borage oil.

Due to its high GLA content (usually up to 25% by weight), it has properties and advantages comparable to those of hemp oil. It is also a skin protecting oil.

Black cumin oil, echium oil, trichodesma oil, evening primrose oil and the core oil of black currant are also preferred oils in the sense of the invention. Evening primrose oil is also characterized by the fact that it is very easily absorbed by the skin and has anti-inflammatory properties. Another preferred oil is meadowfoam oil. It is distinguished by the fact that it can enhance the action of other oils, which is why it is advantageously used in combination with other oils. It penetrates easily into the skin and does not leave an oily feeling. It has very good dispersion properties, is very stable to oxidation, and is rich in essential fatty acids and tocopherols.

Another preferred oil is wheat germ oil. It is distinguished by the fact that it can enhance the action of other oils, which is why it is advantageously used in combination with other oils. It has a high content of vitamin E and is characterized by its content of essential fatty acids.

Another preferred oil is almond oil. It is distinguished by the fact that it can enhance the action of other oils, which is why it is advantageously used in combination with other oils. It is a very stable oil with excellent cold stability.

Another preferred oil is avocado oil. It is distinguished by the fact that it can enhance the action of other oils, which is why it is advantageously used in combination with other oils. It has very good penetration properties and is extremely skin-friendly even with very sensitive skin.

According to a further embodiment of the invention, it is advantageous to combine different oils, i. H. For example, to combine the antiseptically effective with the skin-protecting ones, but also to combine the antiseptically effective and the skin-protecting ones with one another.

In a preferred embodiment, the agent is characterized in that it has at least 2, preferably at least 3, oils selected from the group of hemp oil, borage oil, echium oil, trichodesma oil, evening primrose oil, seed oil from the blackish zen contains currant and / or black cumin oil, in particular in proportions of at least 1% by weight per oil, preferably 5% by weight per oil, preferably 7% by weight per oil, in each case based on the total composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the agent is characterized in that it contains evening primrose oil, preferably at least 7% by weight evening primrose oil, in particular at least 10% by weight evening primrose oil, based on the total agent, and a further oil selected from the group of hemp oil, borage oil, Contains Echium Oil, Trichodesma Oil, Black Currant Seed Oil and / or Black Cumin Oil.

In a preferred embodiment, the agent is characterized in that it contains hemp oil, preferably at least 7% by weight of hemp oil, in particular at least 10% by weight of hemp oil, based on the total agent, and a further oil selected from the group of evening primrose oil, echium oil, Trichodesma oil, borage oil, blackcurrant seed oil and / or black cumin oil.

In a preferred embodiment, the agent is characterized in that it contains hemp oil and evening primrose oil, preferably in proportions of at least 5% by weight, based on the total agent.

In a preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention contain a minimum content of all oil component (s) of 15% by weight, preferably 20% by weight, in particular 25% by weight, preferably 30% by weight, particularly preferably 35% by weight, each based on the total mean.

In a preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention contain a minimum content of the oils which are selected from the group evening primrose oil, echium oil, trichodesma oil, borage oil, seed oil of black currant, hemp oil and / or black cumin oil, of 12% by weight, preferably 16% by weight. . in particular 20% by weight, preferably 24% by weight, particularly preferably 28% by weight, in each case based on the total composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention is dye-free. The absence of dyes is particularly advantageous because dyes generally have a clear potential for allergies. There are also large groups of people who have demonstrated allergic reactions to a variety of dyes. In order to reduce the potential for allergies, it is therefore advantageous to minimize the dye content in the agents according to the invention, at best to the extent that the dye is free. If dyes are desired, for example for optical reasons, the usual colorants such. B. pigments, but preferably organic dyes are used. Organic dyes prove to be more skin-friendly in the context of the invention.

If required, the dyes and color pigments can advantageously be selected from the corresponding positive list of the Cosmetics Regulation or the EC list of cosmetic colorants. In most cases, they are identical to the colorants approved for food. Advantageous color pigments are, for example, titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (eg Fe ₂ θ3, Fe ₃ θ ₄ , FeO (OH)) and / or tin oxide. Advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, Berlin blue, chrome oxide green, ultramarine blue and / or manganese violet.

The colorant content is preferably below 0.002% by weight of the composition, in particular it is 0% by weight.

In a preferred embodiment, the agent is in liquid form, in particular emulsified. The water content is preferably between 15 and 75% by weight, preferably 40 to 65% by weight, in particular 45 to 55% by weight, in each case based on the composition. Under certain circumstances, however, it may be desirable for the agents according to the invention to contain very little or no water. In a further embodiment, the agent according to the invention is therefore in a non-aqueous form. Non-aqueous form in the context of this invention is understood to mean water contents below 15% by weight, based on the composition, preferably water contents below 10% by weight, particularly preferably below 8% by weight, water contents below 6% by weight. are preferred, but in particular water contents between 2 and 0.001% by weight, based on the composition, are preferred.

The advantage of a reduction in the water content in the agent is that the ingredients of the agent according to the invention can be used in a concentrated and thus more effective form during application.

In a further preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention contain no additional fragrances or perfume oils. It must be noted here that some of the oils already mentioned by name already have a fragrance effect as such. Apart from these natural flavors, such as rosemary oil, there are preferably no additional fragrances or perfume oils in the compositions. This is particularly advantageous since most of these fragrances or perfume oils, which are not skin-healing and / or skin-protecting active substances in the sense of the invention, have an allergy potential which counteracts the present invention. In addition, there are large groups of people who have proven allergic reactions to a large number of such fragrances and / or perfume oils.

Although the agents according to the invention are preferably free from the aforementioned fragrances, it may be desirable to produce a particularly appealing fragrance note that cannot be generated solely from the skin-healing active ingredients according to the invention and their inherent fragrance effects. Therefore, in a preferred embodiment, it is possible to use a small amount of such fragrances that do not contain skin-healing and / or skin-protecting active substances The meaning of the invention is to add to the relevant means. It must be ensured that no allergic reactions are caused by these additional fragrances.

The usual fragrances or fragrances or perfume oils include e.g. synthetic products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are e.g. Benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalylbenzoate, benzyl formate, ethylmethylphenylglycinate, allylcyclohexylpropionate, styrallyl propyl alionate and benyl cyl propylate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes e.g. the linear alkanals with 8-18 C atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, to the ketones e.g. the Jonone, oc-isomethylionon and methyl cedryl ketone, to the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes such as limonene and pinene. Perfume oils may also contain natural fragrance mixtures, such as those obtainable from plant sources, e.g. Pine oil, muscatel, clove oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, galbane oil and labdanum oil as well as orange blossom oil, orange peel oil. However, these latter oils are not skin-healing and / or skin-protecting oils in the sense of the invention.

Of course, there are also substances such as St. John's wort, lavandin, lemon balm, frankincense, benzoin, eucalyptus, thyme, lime, mint, grapefruit, lemon, petitgrain, bergamot, citronella, mountain pine, peppermint, hyssop or lavender, chamomile, lavender, lemon balm, neroli , Sandalwood, rose, geranium, incense, vanilla, ylang-ylang, jasmine, musk, sandalwood, tonka bean, cinnamon bark, mustard oil, gaultheria, laurel oil, rosemary oil, camphor, thyme, arnica, some of which have already been mentioned or later still to be mentioned for product scenting. In a further preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention additionally contain lactic acid and / or their salts and / or citric acid and / or their salts, in particular their sodium and / or potassium salts. These two skin-friendly acids and / or their salts, especially the lactic acid and their salts, serve, among other things, to support or renew the natural protective acid mantle or hydrolyzed film of the skin. The hydrolipid film of the skin is attacked or destroyed by alkaline influences, which results in a loss of the skin's barrier function, so that microorganisms or pollutants can penetrate the skin more easily. The additional lactic acid and / or its salts and / or citric acid and / or its salts, in particular its sodium and / or potassium salts, are effective. In particular, the additional lactic acid, which is already part of the epidermis, also has a stabilizing effect on the acidic pH of the skin (pH approx.5.2) and serves as a moisturizing factor since it can improve the skin's ability to retain water. Lactic acid also has a smoothing effect and supports the detachment of dander.

In a further embodiment, the pH of the agent according to the invention is between 4-6.5, measured at a temperature of 20 ° C., in particular in a 1% aqueous solution or dispersion of the agent. This corresponds to the pH value of the skin of a healthy person.

Because in the area of the large sweat glands, e.g. are present in the genital area and in the armpits, the skin surface is only slightly acidic (pH 5.5 - 6.5), there is a reduced resistance to germs or bacteria, so that it is particularly advantageous in the sense of the invention if the pH of the agent according to the invention is not greater than pH 6.0, measured at a temperature of 20 ° C.

Another advantage of this pH range for the agent according to the invention is to be seen in connection with personal hygiene. The body is covered with soap washed, the pH of the washed skin increases to about 9, so that the natural protective coat of the skin is massively disturbed. The skin can use its self-regulating powers to reset the acidic pH. However, this process can take up to 3 hours, but usually at least 30 minutes. This differs from skin type to skin type and runs e.g. B. very small in small children. By using the agent according to the invention, a skin-friendly pH value is set again more quickly.

The pH range mentioned is particularly advantageous with regard to a group of people with particularly sensitive skin, such as babies or toddlers, or a group of people with already existing skin problems, e.g. B. Allergy sufferers. For example, baby skin is considerably thinner than the skin of an adult human. Since the daily production of baby skin is significantly reduced, it only has an incomplete barrier function and a very thin hydrolipid film. Here there is a particular need for the agents according to the invention.

The advantage of the agent according to the invention with a pH as described above is that the self-regulating powers of the skin are supported, as far as their alkaline neutralization capacity is concerned, in that the agent which comes into contact with the skin has a skin-optimal pH having.

In this way, the agent according to the invention supports the natural skin flora of humans.

In addition to the special moisturizing factors mentioned, such as urea and lactic acid and their salts, in a preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention can include further moisturizing factors, for example those selected from the following group: amino acids, chitosan or chitosan salts / derivatives, ethylene glycol, glucosamine, glycerol , Diglycerin, triglycerin, uric acid, honey and hardened honey, creatinine, hydrolysis products of collagen, lactitol, polyols and polyol derivatives (e.g. butyl lenglycol, erythritol, propylene glycol, 1, 2,6-hexanetrlol, polyethylene glycols such as PEG-4, PEG-6, PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-9, PEG-10, PEG-12, PEG-14, PEG- 16, PEG-18, PEG-20), pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, sugar and sugar derivatives (for example fructose, glucose, maltose, maltitol, mannitol, inositol, sorbitol, sorbitylsilanediol.-suerose, trehalose, xylose, xylitol, glucuronic acid and their salts), ethoxylated sorbitol (Sorbeth-6, Sorbeth-20, Sorbeth-30, Sorbeth-40), hardened starch hydrolysates and mixtures of hardened wheat protein and PEG-20 acetate copolymer, but especially panthenol.

In a further preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention is reversibly fixed to a polymeric carrier, e.g. B. via adsorption forces, possibly with the participation of surface-active substances, so that a delayed release of the healing active substances is made possible. This is particularly advantageous, since in this way an even longer lasting effect can be achieved, which is particularly useful for consumers with particularly irritated skin. The fact that the healing substances continuously over a longer period of time, for. B. are given to the skin in a relatively low dosage, it becomes possible to intervene in a very cautious manner in the particularly sensitive balance of the self-regulating forces of strongly irritated skin. The effects of the healing substances are so mild that, despite their effectiveness, they do not overwhelm the already irritated skin in any way.

Particularly preferred polymeric carriers belong to the class of silicic acid esters. However, it can also be any conceivable other carrier, with the only stipulations that they enable delayed release of active ingredient and as such have no negative or irritating influence on the skin, provided that they are used for the purposes of this invention.

In a further preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention receives one or more deodorant active ingredients in addition to the healing active ingredients. It should be noted here that many of the oils already mentioned by themselves also have a deodorising effect. The particular advantage of adding one or more deodorant active ingredients to the agent according to the invention is that these active ingredients together with the oils mentioned have a particularly enhanced, because synergistic, effect on the deodorant activity. The mode of action consists only in one facet of masking malodorous or unpleasant smells. In connection with the effect of the agent on the skin, an additional effect occurs which is based on the synergistic interaction of the healing active substances in the sense of the invention with the added deodorant active ingredient and the self-regulating powers, so that not only the symptom, the bad smell, but the moment that triggers this smell is eliminated. These are usually bacteria that are found in different numbers on the skin or in the hair or pubic hair area. These bacteria can contain proteins and fats, e.g. B. from body sweat, decompose into malodorous short-chain fatty acids. These bacteria are effectively counteracted by the synergistic interaction of the factors mentioned.

At the same time, the skin's self-regulating powers are stimulated and trained.

In a preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention is in the form of an emulsion. Emulsions are disperse systems of at least two immiscible liquids, one phase being distributed in the form of fine droplets in the other, coherent phase. A distinction is made between macro and micro emulsions, and this invention encompasses all types of emulsions.

The emulsions according to the invention are prepared by the classic procedures, e.g. B. by shaking, beating, stirring, turbulent mixing, injecting one liquid into another, by emulsifying centrifuges, colloid mills, homogenizers, for example inline machines that work according to the rotor / stator principle, or high-pressure homogenizers that emulsify through sudden pressure release, through vibrations and cavitation in the mixture, and many others. According to the latest investigations, static mixers can also be used, preferably modern micromixers.

The emulsions can be stabilized with so-called emulsifiers or stabilizers, so that a possible creaming or sedimentation or the tendency of the dispersed particles to agglomerate is difficult. Such compounds usually have an amphiphilic character, that is to say they have at least one polar and one non-polar group, and there may also be an excess of the apolar group, in which case one speaks of co-emulsifiers. Saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alkyl radicals and aryl or alkylaryl radicals are generally used as nonpolar groups. Carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate, polyphosphate, lactate, citrate, tartrate, amine salts, quaternary ammonium compounds, betaines, alcohols, polyethers, - glyceric, sorbitol, pentaerythritol, sucrose, acetic acid occur as polar end groups -, lactic acid residues, act as polar intermediate groups hydroxyl, ester, sulfamide, amide, polyamide, polyamine, amine, ether, polyether, glycerol, sorbitol, pentaerythritol and sucrose groups, to name just a few. A general distinction is made between anionic, cationic, amphoteric and zwitterionic and nonionic emulsifiers, it being possible in principle for all of these emulsifiers to be used in the context of this invention, and also those which do not fit into the aforementioned categories. In the context of this invention, however, a physiological and toxicological harmlessness of the emulsifier when used according to the invention is to be observed, which is in accordance with the spirit of the invention, namely to give the skin an advantage. Nonionic emulsifiers are preferably used. All conceivable and customary emulsifying auxiliaries can also advantageously be used according to the invention. If the oil phase is finely distributed in the water phase, it is an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion, for example milk), which is preferred according to the invention. The basic character of an O / W emulsion is characterized by the water, ie it generally has a less greasy effect on the skin, is rather matting and is absorbed into the skin faster than a W / O emulsion, which can be advantageous.

Agents according to the invention can advantageously be formulated as stable O / W preparations for dermatological use according to the invention, for example in the form of creams and ointments which are spreadable in the range from room temperature to skin temperature, or, which is preferred, as lotions or as milk tend to flow in this temperature range.

O / W emulsions according to the invention can advantageously be prepared with the aid of conventional O / W emulsifiers, if desired with the aid of W / O emulsifiers or further coemulsifiers.

O / W emulsions according to the present invention contain, if required for reasons of stability, one or more emulsifiers, preferably selected from the group of the following substances, which usually act as W / O emulsifiers:

Lanolin, microcrystalline wax (Cera microcristallina) in a mixture with paraffin oil (Paraffinum liquidum), ozokerite, hydrogenated castor oil, polyglyceryl-3-oleate, wool-wax acid mixtures, wool-wax alcohol mixtures, pentaerythrithyl isostearate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, polyglyceryl Stearic acid, sodium dihydroxycetyl phosphate in a mixture with isopropylhydroxycetyl ether, methyl glucose dioleate, methyl glucose dioleate in a mixture with hydroxystearate and beeswax, mineral oil in a mixture with petrolatum and ozokerite and glyceryl oleate and lanolin alcohol, petrolatum in a mixture with ozokerite and hydrogenated castor oil and glycine oil and glycated oil 3-oleate, PEG-7-hydrogenated castor oil, ozokerite and hydrogenated castor oil, polyglyceryl-4-isostearate, polyglyceryl-4-isostearate in a mixture with cetyldimethicone copolyol and hexyl laurate, laurylmethicone copolyol, Ce tyldimethicone copolyol, acrylate / C10-C30-alkyl acrylate cross-polymer, poloxamer 101, polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4-dipolyhydroxystearate, PEG-30-dipolyhydroxystearate, diisostearyl-polyglyceryl-polyglyceryl , Polyglyceryl-3-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-4-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3-dioleate.

In a preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention contain as emulsifier cetylstearyl alcohol with approx. 30 ethoxy units, preferably eumulgin B3 (cetylstearyl alcohol + 30 ethoxy units), or ethoxylated fatty acid alkanolamides, such as coconut fatty acid monoethanolamide + 4 ethoxy units, which is eumulgin C4 corresponds (both: Cognis Deutschland GmbH).

In a preferred embodiment, the O / W emulsions according to the invention contain one or more coemulsifiers, preferably selected from the group of the following substances:

Glyceryl stearate in a mixture with ceteareth-20, ceteareth-25, ceteareth-6 in a mixture with stearyl alcohol, cetylstearyl alcohol in a mixture with PEG-40-castor oil and sodium cetylstearyl sulfate, triceteareth-4 phosphate, sodium cetylstearyl sulfate, 4-phosphate, lecithin-trilaurethate-trilaurethate-trilaurethate Stearic acid, propylene glycol stearate SE, PEG-25 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-54 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-6 caprylic acid / capric acid glycerides, glyceryl oleate in a mixture with propylene glycol, ceteth-2, ceteth-20, polysorbate 60, glyceryl stearate in a mixture with -100 stearate, laureth-4, ceteareth-3, isostearylglyceryl ether, cetylstearyl alcohol mixed with sodium cetylstearyl sulfate, laureth-23, steareth-2, glyceryl stearate mixed with PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, glycol distearate, PEG-22 -Dodecyl glycol copolymer, polyglyceryl-2-PEG-4 stearate, ceteareth-20, methyl glucose sesquistearate, steareth-10, PEG-20 stearate, steareth-2 in a mixture with PEG-8 distearate, steareth-21, steareth- 20, Isosteareth-2 0, PEG-45 / dodecylglycol copolymer, methoxy-PEG-22 / dodecylglycol copolymer, PEG-20-glyceryl stearate, PEG-20-glyceryistearate, PEG-8 beeswax, polyglyceryl-2-laurate, isostearyldiglyceryl succinate, Stearamidopropyl PGdimonium chloride phosphate, glyceryl stearate SE, Ceteth-20, triethyl citrate, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, ceteareth 12, glyceryl stearate citrate, cetyl phosphate, triceteareth 4-phosphate, trilaureth-4 phosphate, polyglyceryl methyl glucose distearate, potassium cetyl phosphate, 2-isostyl phosphate, 2-isostyl phosphate, 2-isostyl phosphate, 2-isostearate, 10-isostearate Ceteth-10, oleth-20, isoceteth-20, glyceryl stearate in a mixture with ceteareth-20, ceteareth-12, cetylstearyl alcohol and cetyl palmitate, cetylstearyl alcohol in a mixture with PEG-20 stearate, PEG-30-stearate, PEG-40-stearate, PEG -100 stearate.

In the context of the present invention, it may be advantageous, particularly if the oil phase of the preparations contains silicone oils, which will be described later, to use silicone emulsifiers. The silicone emulsifiers can preferably be selected from the group of alkyl methicon copolyols and / or alkyl dimethicone copolyols or other groups of silicone emulsifiers known from the prior art. Dimethicone copolyols are advantageous, for example.

The total amount of emulsifiers used according to the invention in the preparations according to the invention is advantageously chosen from the range from 0.05 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

Sprayable O / W emulsions, in particular O / W microemulsions, are particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention.

The droplet diameters of ordinary emulsions are preferably in the range from 10 ^"2 to 10 ^{" 6} cm. Macro emulsions are preferably in the range from approx. 1 μm to approx. 50 μm and, without further coloring additives, are milky white and opaque. Finer macroemulsions, the droplet diameters of which are preferably in the range from approximately 0.5 μm to approximately 1 μm, are again blue-white in color and opaque, without coloring additives. Such finer macroemulsions usually have a higher viscosity. Appropriate mixtures with particle diameters smaller than preferably about 0.01 μm appear clear and transparent.

The droplet diameter of microemulsions is in the range of preferably about 50 to about 500 nm. Such microemulsions are colored bluish white to translucent or even transparent and mostly low-viscosity. The viscosity of many O / W type microemulsions is comparable to that of water.

The advantage of microemulsions is that active substances can be present in a much finer disperse in the disperse phase than in the disperse phase of macroemulsions. Another advantage is that their low viscosity makes them easier to spray.

For the purposes of the invention, both macro and micro emulsions can advantageously be used and produced.

The O / W emulsions according to the invention can preferably be stabilized very well against coalescence by thickeners which increase the viscosity of the aqueous phase, in which the finely dispersed particles aggregate again to form larger aggregates and the touching droplets finally flow together. For example, polyacrylates (carbomer) and / or other other organic thickeners are well suited for this purpose. In particular, higher-viscosity formulations such as creams or ointments can be produced in an advantageous manner in a stabilized form.

Skin lotions generally have a more fluid consistency, characterized by a viscosity that can generally range from about 2000 mPa-s to about 10,000 mPa-s. Due to the considerably greater mobility of the particles, which can bring about faster coalescence, their stability is sometimes more problematic than that of the higher-viscosity formulations. An advantageous embodiment is represented by multiple emulsions, that is to say those which in the droplets of the dispersed or discontinuous phase in turn contain droplets of a further dispersed phase, for example W / O / W emulsions and O / W / O emulsions.

It may also be desirable that the agents according to the invention, especially when they are emulsified, especially when they are sprayed, may contain penetration accelerators. These are substances that accelerate the penetration of the active substances into the skin. These are, for example, phenoxyethanol or phenylethanol.

In a preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the skin-protecting and / or skin-healing substances according to the invention, one or more additional substances which have an effect on the human organism, eg. B. have the respiratory organs and / or the human psyche. Such substances can of course also be skin-functional and / or skin-protecting in the sense of the attributes according to the invention, but do not need it. Some of the substances already listed, e.g. For example, St. John's wort, lavandin, lemon balm and frankincense not only have a skin-functional effect, they also have a calming or mood-lifting effect on the human psyche. The essential oils of such substances enter the limbic system of the brain via the olfactory bulb (bulbus olfactory) in the nose. Here are the essential oils z. T. without the essential oils have previously been detected by the sense of smell, since the effective concentrations are often below the consciously smellable concentration. This is a clear differentiation from the classic fragrances listed above, for the purpose of which it is essential that they be detected by the sense of smell. In this context according to the invention, however, it is not a question of producing a pleasant smell, but of producing certain effects on the human organism. For supportive, expectorant or cough-relieving or decongestant treatment for flu, cough or bronchitis or other diseases of this type, substances such as. Include benzoin, eucalyptus, thyme, lime, mint, grapefruit, lemon, petitgrain, bergamot, citronella, mountain pine, peppermint, hyssop or lavender. In this way, the healing of the respiratory tract and the bronchi can be advantageously supported. For supportive treatment of difficulty falling asleep or nervous restlessness or depressed moods, one can e.g. B. Incorporate substances such as chamomile, lavender, lemon balm, neroli, sandalwood, rose, geranium, frankincense into the agent according to the invention.

It is also possible to underpin the abundance of possible uses by a more exotic example, erotizing or aphrodisiac substances such as. B. vanilla, ylang-ylang, jasmine, musk, sandalwood, tonka bean, cinnamon bark in the agent according to the invention. In all of these cases, absorption occurs via the respiratory tract and / or nerve tract.

It is also possible to promote blood circulation-promoting substances such. B. mustard oil, Gaultheria, laurel oil, rosemary oil, camphor, thyme, arnica in the agent according to the invention. Here the absorption takes place via the respiratory tract and the skin.

In a similar manner, agents according to the invention can be provided which enable a supportive treatment of skin diseases, e.g. B. skin fungus (use of tea tree oil) or physical dysfunctions, such as. B. counteract hyperhidrosis (use of sage)

In a further embodiment, the agents according to the invention contain one or more active substances from the groups of the waxes, the hydrophobic plant zen extracts, higher fatty acids and esters, essential oils, lipids, vitamins, sunscreens, phospholipids derivatives of alpha-hydroxy acids and / or mixtures of the aforementioned components.

In a preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention are in liquid form. To achieve a liquid consistency, the use of both liquid organic solvents and water may be appropriate. The agents according to the invention therefore optionally contain solvents.

Solvents which can be used in the agents according to the invention come, for example, from the group of mono- or polyhydric alcohols, alkanolamines or glycol ethers, provided that they are miscible with water in the concentration range indicated. The solvents are preferably selected from ethanol, n- or i-propanol, butanols, glycol, propane or butanediol, glycerol, diglycol, propyl or butyl diglycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol methyl ether, ethylene glycol ethyl ether, ethylene glycol propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether, diethylene glycol methyl ether .

Diethylene glycol ethyl ether, propylene glycol methyl, ethyl or propyl ether, butoxypropoxy propanol (BPP), dipropylene glycol monomethyl or ethyl ether, diisopropylene glycol monomethyl or ethyl ether, methoxy, ethoxy or butoxytriglycol, 1-butoxyethoxy -2-propanol, 3-methyl-3-methoxybutanol, propylene glycol t-butyl ether and mixtures of these solvents.

(R)

Some glycol ethers are available under the trade names Arcosolv (Arco Chemical Co.) or Cellosolve, Carbitol or Propasol (Union Carbide Corp.); these also include, for example, butyl carbitol, hexyl carbitol, methyl carbitol ^R , and carbitol itself, (2- (2-ethoxy) ethoxy) ethanol. The choice of the glycol ether can easily be made by the person skilled in the art on the basis of its volatility, water solubility, its weight percentage in the total dispersion and the like. the. Pyrrolidone solvents, such as N-alkylpyrrolidones, for example N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone or N-C8-Ci2-alkylpyrrolidone, or 2-pyrrolidone, can also be used. Also preferred as the sole solvent or as part of a solvent mixture are glycerol derivatives, in particular glycerol carbonate.

The alcohols which can be used as cosolvents in the present invention include liquid polyethylene glycols with a low molecular weight, for example polyethylene glycols with a molecular weight of 200, 300, 400 or 600. Other suitable cosolvents are other alcohols, for example (a) lower Alcohols such as ethanol, propanol, isopropanol and n-butanol, (b) ketones such as acetone and methyl ethyl ketone, (c) C2-C4 _^ polyols such as a diol or a triol, for example ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol or mixtures thereof. From the class of diols, 1,2-octanediol is particularly preferred.

In a preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention contains one or more solvents from the group comprising Ci to C4 monoalcohols, C2 to C6 glycols, C3 to C- | 2-glycol ethers and glycerol, in particular ethanol. The C3- to C- | 2-glycol ethers according to the invention contain alkyl or alkenyl groups with less than 10 carbon atoms, preferably up to 8, in particular up to 6, particularly preferably 1 to 4 and extremely preferably 2 to 3 carbon atoms.

Preferred C1 to C4 monoalcohols are ethanol, π-propanol, / so-propanol and terf-butanol. Preferred C2 to Cβ glycols are ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, 1,5-pentanediol, neopentyl glycol and 1,6-hexanediol, especially ethylene glycol and 1,2-propylene glycol. Preferred C3 to Ci2 glycol ethers are di-, tri-, tetra- and pentaethylene glycol, di-, tri- and tetrapropylene glycol, propylene glycol monotertiary butyl ether and propylene glycol monoethyl ether as well as the solvents called butoxydiglycol according to INCI, Butoxyethanol, butoxyisopropanol, butoxypropanol, butyloctanol, ethoxydiglycol, ethoxyethanol, ethyl hexanediol, isobutoxypropanol, isopentyldiol, 3-methoxybutanol, methoxyethanol, methoxyisopropanol and methoxymethylbutanol.

The agent according to the invention can contain one or more solvents in an amount of usually up to 40% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 30% by weight, in particular 2 to 20% by weight, particularly preferably 3 to 15% by weight , most preferably 5 to 12 wt .-%, each based on the total agent, provided that these solvents do not counter the concern of the invention to promote the well-being of the skin.

If desired, the agent according to the invention can have further constituents which are usually contained in cosmetic or dermatological preparations such as creams, ointments, gels or lotions. The respective ingredients are well known to the person skilled in the art and it is not difficult for him to select appropriate ingredients and to implement them in a reasonable amount in the agent. The only requirement is that the additional components do not counteract the purpose of the invention to promote the well-being of the skin.

These are primarily substances selected from the field of natural oils and / or chemically modified natural oils and / or synthetic oils, fats, waxes and other natural and / or synthetic fat bodies, for example esters of fatty acids or of fatty alcohols.

Polar oils, for example from the group of the lecithins and the fatty acid triglycerides, in particular the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18, carbon atoms can be used. Polar oil components from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 can be used C atoms and from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms.

Polar oil components from the group of dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, can be used. It is particularly advantageous to use Guerbet alcohols. Guerbet coals are named after Marcel Guerbet, who described their production for the first time. Guerbet alcohols are obtained from the Guerbet reaction, which is understood to mean the self-condensation of alcohols as a rule under the influence of sodium or copper at temperatures around 200 ° C and elevated pressure. The alcohols thus formed, for example 2-butyl octanol, are referred to as Guerbet alcohols.

Examples of nonpolar oils which can be used are those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular petroleum jelly (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins and hydrogenated polyisobutenes. Polydecenes are the preferred substances among the polyolefins.

Compounds from the group of cyclic and / or linear silicones, which are also referred to as “silicone oils” in the context of the present disclosure, can also be used. For example, phenyltrimethicone can be chosen as the silicone oil. Other silicone oils, for example dimethicone, phenyldimethicone, cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane), for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane), cetyldimethicone, behenoxydimethicone, can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. Agents according to the invention can also contain inorganic pigments based on metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular the oxides of titanium (TiO ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe ₂ θ ₃ ), zirconium (ZrO ₂ ), Silicon (SiO ₂ ), manganese (eg MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ O ₃ ), cerium (eg Ce ₂ θ ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides. These pigments are X-ray amorphous or non-X-ray amorphous. Pigments based on TiO _{2 are} particularly preferred.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention may optionally contain further cosmetic active ingredients, auxiliaries and / or additives, as are usually used in such preparations and are well known to the person skilled in the art from the prior art, for example antioxidants, preservatives, bactericides, Perfumes, substances to prevent foaming, dyes, pigments which have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other customary components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as Alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives. Here too it is of course to be ensured that the additional constituents do not counteract the purpose of the invention to promote the well-being of the skin.

As preservatives, if desired and compatible with the purpose of the invention, those which are approved in food technology are preferably conceivable, listed below with their E number:

E 200-203, E 210-224, E 226-228, E 230-233, E 235-239, E 249-252, E 280-283, E 290. Furthermore, according to the invention, preservatives or preservation aids customary in cosmetics, such as dibromodicyanobutane (2-bromo-2-bromomethylglutarodinitrile), 3-iodo-2-propynylbutylcarbamate, 2-bromo-2-nitro-propane-1, 3-diol, imidazolidinyl urea, 5- Chloro-2-methyl-4-isothiazoiin-3-one, 2-chloroacetamide, benzalkonium chloride, benzyl alcohol and formaldehyde releasers are conceivable.

Phenylhydroxyalkyl ethers, in particular the compound known under the name phenoxyethanol, are also suitable as preservatives on account of their bactericidal and fungicidal effects on a number of microorganisms.

Also suitable as preservatives are o-cymen-5-ol, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1, 3-diol, propylene glycol, chlorphenesin, ethyl, butyl, isobutyl, propyl, methyl paraben, methyl dibromo glutaronitrile, lodopropynyl-

Butyl carbamates, methyl chloro-, methyl-isothiazolinone, butylene glycol, DMDM hydantoin, imidazolidinyl urea, triclosan, 5-bromo-5-nitro-1, 3-dioxanes, sodium methyl paraben, sodium benzoate and / or sorbic acid and / or mixtures of these, for example, such mixtures as z. B. from Jan Dekker (Germany) GmbH under the trade names Biosol, Bronopol Pharma, Dekaben B-30, Dekaben CP, Dekaben, Dekaben GN, Dekaben IGN, Dekaben IT, Dekaben IP, Dekaben LMB, Dekaben LMP, Dekaben LMP-5 , Dekaben DMM, Dekaben IU, Dekaben S, Dekaben TC, Dekacydol, Dekasol 5, Dekasol 10, Dekafald, Paridol M, Paridol P, Paridol B, Paridol E, Paridol MNA.

Furthermore, it is advantageous to add further, as yet unmentioned, anti-irritant or anti-inflammatory active ingredients to the preparations in the context of the present invention, in particular batyl alcohol (octadecylglyceryl ether), salachyl alcohol (α-9-octadecenylglyceryl ether), chimyl alcohol (α-

Hexadecylglyceryl ether), bisabolol and / or panthenol. It is also advantageous to add customary antioxidants to the preparations according to the present invention, if desired and compatible with the purpose of the invention. According to the invention, all the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as favorable antioxidants.

The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-camosine, L- Camosin and its derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, Methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, gamma-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers , Peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathione sulfoximine) in very low tolerable dosages (e.g. pmol to μmol / k g), also (metal) - chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives , unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. gamma-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, furfurylidensorbitol and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg-ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate) , Vitamin E (tocopherols and derivatives, eg vitamin E-acetate), as well as coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, ferulic acid, furylidene glucitol, camosin, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguyanic resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybenzoic acid and derivate derivatives and their derivatives and their derivatives and their derivatives , Zinc and its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnSO4) selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium methionine), stilbene and de- Ren derivatives (for example stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients.

The amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 2% by weight, based on the total weight the preparation.

In a preferred embodiment, the agent is characterized in that it contains more than 0.03% by weight, in particular 0.05-1% by weight, of natural antioxidants, in particular selected from terpene-containing antioxidants and / or vitamin E (tocopherols and / or derivatives) and / or its derivatives, preference being given to rosemary oil and / or tea tree oil as terpene-containing antioxidants.

It may also contain hydrocolloids, that is to say water-soluble and / or partially water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers which form gels or viscous solutions in aqueous systems. These are, for example, organic, fully synthetic compounds, such as. B. polyacrylic and poly methacrylic compounds, vinyl polymers, polycarboxylic acids, polyethers, polyimines, polyamides, polyurethanes to inorganic compounds, such as. B. polysilicic acids, clay minerals such as montmorillonites, zeolites, silicas to organic, modified natural products, such as. B. carboxymethyl cellulose and other cellulose ethers, hydroxyethyl and - propyl cellulose and microcrystalline cellulose, as well as organic, natural compounds such as agar-agar, carrageenan, tragacanth, gum arabic, alginates, pectins, polyoses, guar flour, locust bean gum, starch, Dextrins, gelatin, casein. These may be included if desired and consistent with the intent of the invention.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, xanthan (E 415) is also contained, also called xanthan gum, which is an anionic heteropolysac is charid, which is usually formed by fermentation from corn sugar and isolated as the potassium salt. It is produced by Xanthomonas campestris and some other species under aerobic conditions. Xanthan is formed from a chain with beta-1, 4-bound glucose (cellulose) with side chains. The structure of the subgroups consists of glucose, mannose, glucuronic acid, acetate and pyruvate. The number of pyruvate units determines the viscosity of the xanthane. Kelzan ASX-T (available from: CP Kelco) is particularly suitable.

In a preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention is characterized in that it is in the form of an ointment, cream, emulsion, suspension, milk, paste, gel, foam or spray, preferably as a lotion. The character of the lotion can be adjusted via the water content: If the agent contains more than 55% water, it has a milky character, with well below 40% water the creamy properties of the oils predominate.

Another object of the invention is the use of an agent for skin treatment according to the invention, characterized in that the agent is in the form of an ointment, cream, emulsion, suspension, milk, paste, gel, foam or spray, preferably as a lotion.

A preferred embodiment is the use of an agent according to the invention as a skin care agent, intimate care agent, foot care agent, light stabilizer, shaving agent, after shave lotion, W / O or O / W skin cream and / or lotion, day and night cream and / or lotion, Eye cream and / or lotion, face cream and / or lotion, anti-wrinkle cream and / or lotion, moisturizing cream and / or lotion, vitamin cream and / or lotion, skin lotion, skin care lotion and / or moisturizing lotion, each with a significant improvement in skin tolerance conventional means.

Another object of the invention is a product containing an agent according to the invention in liquid form, in particular emulsified, and an application. tion device, preferably spray applicator, roller and / or dispenser, with which the agent can be applied to the skin.

The spray dispenser is preferably a manually activatable spray dispenser, in particular selected from the group comprising aerosol spray dispensers, self-building spray dispensers, pump spray dispensers and trigger spray dispensers, in particular pump spray dispensers and trigger spray dispensers with a container made of transparent polyethylene or polyethylene terephthalate.

Such and similar spray dispensers or related application devices are commercially available and all commercially available spray dispensers or related application devices are suitable for the application according to the invention.

The invention further relates to a method for skin treatment in which an effective amount of an agent according to the invention is applied to the skin, preferably using an application device, preferably a spray applicator, roller and / or dosing dispenser. An effective amount is understood to mean an amount which enables the support and promotion of the self-regulating forces of human skin in the sense according to the invention described above. This amount is an individual one that is influenced by many factors such as e.g. B. skin type, degree of damage to the skin, desired or to be achieved result depends.

Another object of this invention in a preferred embodiment is the use of at least one skin-protecting and / or skin-healing active ingredient for producing a medically effective dermatological preparation, preferably skin lotion, according to the features of the agent according to the invention which can be found in the description, for supporting irritated and / or sensitized and / or sick human skin and for the prophylactic treatment of healthy skin. Another object of the invention is a substrate which is impregnated and / or coated and / or impregnated with an agent according to the invention. The design of the impregnating or coating agent or impregnating agent can be found in the description above.

The substrate material preferably consists of porous flat cloths. They can consist of a fibrous or cellular flexible material which can retain sufficient amounts of an impregnating or coating agent so that the impregnating or coating agent or impregnating agent is only released to the skin when the substrate comes into contact with the skin and not before , for example during storage. These wipes include wipes made of woven and non-woven synthetic and natural fibers, felt, paper or foam, such as hydrophilic polyurethane foam.

Conventional cloths made of non-woven material (nonwovens) are preferably used here. Nonwovens are generally defined as adhesively bonded fibrous products that have a mat or layered fiber structure, or those that include fiber mats in which the fibers are randomly or randomly distributed. The fibers can be natural, such as wool, silk, jute, hemp, cotton, flax, sisal or ramie; or synthetic, such as rayon, cellulose esters, polyvinyl derivatives, polyolefins, polyamides or polyesters. In general, any fiber diameter or titer is suitable for the present invention. Preferred porous and flat cloths consist of one or different fiber materials, in particular cotton, refined cotton, polyamide, polyester or mixtures of these. Preferably, the substrates in the form of a cloth have a surface that enables convenient handling by the consumer, for example the cloth surface is 25 cm ² . The substrates according to the invention can be obtained by impregnating or impregnating the agents according to the invention on a substrate. Accordingly, another object of this invention is a method for treating the skin, in which one or more substrates according to the statements just made are used to rub or contact the skin with it.

Examples:

Example 1: Prescription of a shelf-stable medical lotion;

O / W emulsion (milk)

Recipe consisting of:

Lactic acid 0.4% by weight

Na lactate 0.9% by weight

Urea 8% by weight

Xanthan 0.25% by weight

Eumulgin B3 0.25% by weight

Panthenol 8% by weight

Almond oil 7% by weight

Hemp oil 7% by weight

Borage oil 7% by weight

Evening primrose oil 7% by weight

Tea tree oil 0.5% by weight

Vitamin E.

Tocopherol 0.1% by weight

Water 53.6% by weight

The γ-linolenic acid content is at least about 2.52% by weight, based on the entire formulation.

Eumulgin B3 (cetylstearyl alcohol + 30 ethoxy units)

production:

Water is placed at 25 ° C, the lactic acid, lactate, urea and xanthan are dissolved with stirring. The panthenol is heated to about 35 ° C. and stirred in. Then the emulsifier is added, which is suspended with heating and slowly when a temperature of 45 ° C. is reached solves. Finally, the separately weighed oils are mixed as a mixture using the Ultraturrax disperser (Janke and Kunkel) at approx. 30 ° C within 2 min. emulsified and stirred for 1 min at increased speed while minimizing air intake. The measurement of the droplet size gave ad 50 value of 1.5 micrometers with laser diffraction.

Example 2: Prescription of a shelf-stable medical lotion; Production analogous to example 1

O / W emulsion (milk)

Recipe consisting of:

Citric acid 0.2% by weight

Na citrate 1.0% by weight

Urea 9.0% by weight

Xanthan 0.25% by weight

Eumulgin B 3 0.25% by weight

Panthenol 6.5% by weight

Meadowfoam oil 6% by weight

Wheat germ oil 5% by weight

Evening primrose oil 12% by weight

Avocado oil 4% by weight

Rosemary oil 0.15% by weight

Vitamin E.

Tocopherol 0.1% by weight

Water 55.55% by weight

The γ-linolenic acid content is approximately 1.20% by weight, based on the entire formulation. Eumulgin B3 (cetylstearyl alcohol + 30 ethoxy units)

Example 3: Prescription of a shelf-stable, creamy lotion; Production analogous to example 1 Recipe consisting of:

Lactic acid 0.3% by weight

Na lactate 2.0% by weight

Urea 9.0% by weight

Eumulgin C4 0.3% by weight

Kelzan ASXT 0.3% by weight

Panthenol 3.5% by weight

Wheat germ oil 10.0% by weight

Borage oil 14.0% by weight

Gold of Pleasure 8.0% by weight

Hemp oil 8.0% by weight

Evening primrose oil 8.0% by weight

Tea tree oil 1, 2 wt .-%

Rosemary soft 0.1% by weight

Tocopherol 0.1% by weight

Water 35.2% by weight

The γ-linolenic acid content is at least about 4.14% by weight, based on the entire formulation.

Eumulgin C4 (coconut fatty acid monoethanolamide + 4 ethoxy units)

Proof of effectiveness can be carried out using comparative tests, for example as follows:

Subjects have a slight pre-damage to the skin, the faster regeneration of which was observed by applying the agent compared to an untreated area. Suitable for assessing the (faster) regeneration are z. B. optical assessment, measurement of TEWL (transepidermal water loss), skin pH. An effect on the skin can be determined, e.g. B. by a reduction in itching or another effect that strikes the subject with damaged skin and improves his subjective well-being.

Claims

claims

1. The well-being of the skin, preparation to be applied to the skin, characterized in that it contains one or more natural skin-protecting and / or skin-healing active substances and urea, with the proviso that the γ-linolenic acid content of the preparation is above 0.25% by weight. -% and the content of at least twice unsaturated fatty acids is above 0.5% by weight, based in each case on the entire preparation.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the at least di-unsaturated fatty acids contained in the preparation are bound as glycerol esters in the oils and / or fats contained in the preparation.

3. Composition according to one of claims 1-2, characterized in that the γ-linolenic acid contained in the preparation is bound as a glycerol ester in the oils contained in the preparation.

4. Composition according to one of claims 1-3, characterized in that it contains only natural γ-linolenic acid sources, preferably hemp oil, borage oil, evening primrose oil, the core oil of black currant, echium oil, trichodesma oil and / or black cumin oil act as a γ-linolenic acid source ,

5. Composition according to one of claims 1-4, characterized in that at least one of the active substances is antiseptically active or contains at least one antiseptically active substance.

6. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that the antiseptically active substance is an oil, in particular an essential oil.

7. Composition according to one of claims 1-6, characterized in that it contains a terpene-containing plant extract, preferably an extract from plant parts of one or more plants from the family of the Myrtaceae.

8. Composition according to claim 7, characterized in that the terpene-containing plant extract is an extract from plant parts of plants from the group Leptospermum and / or Melaleuca.

9. Composition according to one of claims 7-8, characterized in that the plant extract is an extract from plant parts of plants from the group Melaleuca altemifolia (tea tree) and / or Melaleuca leucadendra.

10. Agent according to one of claims 1-9, characterized in that the terpene-containing plant extract is tea tree oil and is contained in the agent in an amount of 0.005-2% by weight.

11. Agent according to one of the preceding claims 1-10, characterized in that the agent has a minimum content of the oil component (s) of 15 wt .-%, preferably 20 wt .-%, in particular 25 wt .-%.

12. Composition according to one of the preceding claims 1-11, characterized in that it contains at least 2, preferably at least 3 oils, selected from the group of hemp oil, borage oil, evening primrose oil, the core oil of black currant, echium oil, trichodesma oil and / or black cumin oil, in particular in proportions of at least 1% by weight per oil, in each case based on the total composition.

13. Composition according to one of the preceding claims 1-12, characterized in that it additionally contains lactic acid and / or citric acid and / or their salts, in particular their sodium and / or potassium salts.

14. Composition according to one of the preceding claims 1-13, characterized in that its pH at a temperature of T = 20 ° C is not greater than 6.0.

15. Agent according to one of the preceding claims 1-14, characterized in that the composition is dye-free.

16. Agent according to one of the preceding claims 1-15, characterized in that the composition is non-aqueous.

17. Composition according to one of the preceding claims 1-16, characterized in that it contains only natural flavors, preferably free of fragrances.

18. Composition according to one of the preceding claims 1-17, characterized in that it is reversibly fixed to a polymeric carrier, so that a delayed release of the skin-protecting and / or skin-healing active substances is possible.

19. Composition according to claim 18, characterized in that the polymeric carrier is a silicic acid ester.

20. Composition according to one of the preceding claims 1-19, characterized in that it contains a deodorant active ingredient.

21. Composition according to one of the preceding claims 1-20, characterized in that it contains more than 0.03% by weight, in particular 0.05-1% by weight, of natural antioxidants, in particular selected from terpene-containing antioxidants and / or vitamins E.

22. Agent according to one of the preceding claims 1-21, characterized in that it contains at least 3 wt .-% urea, based on the total agent.

23. Composition according to one of the preceding claims 1-22, characterized in that it is in the form of an ointment, cream, emulsion, suspension, milk, paste, a gel, foam or spray, preferably as a lotion.

24. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1-23 for skin treatment, characterized in that the composition is in the form of an ointment, cream, emulsion, suspension, milk, paste, gel, foam or spray, preferably as a lotion, in particular in emulsified form ,

25. Use of at least one skin-protecting and / or skin-healing active substance for producing a medically effective dermatological preparation, preferably skin lotion, according to one of claims 1-23 for the supportive treatment of irritated and / or sensitized and / or sick human skin and for the prophylactic treatment of healthy skin.

26. A method for skin treatment, characterized in that an agent according to any one of claims 1-23 using an application device, preferably a spray applicator, roller and / or dosing Dispenser is applied to the skin to be treated, the agent preferably being in an emulsified form.

27. Product, consisting of an application device, preferably a spray applicator, roller and / or dosing dispenser and an agent according to any one of claims 1-23, wherein the agent is preferably in emulsified form.

28. A substrate characterized in that it is a substrate impregnated and / or impregnated and / or coated with an agent according to any one of claims 1-23.