EP1572135A2

EP1572135A2 - Mild surfactant compositions

Info

Publication number: EP1572135A2
Application number: EP03780042A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Anemone TRÄGER; Marianne Waldmann-Laue; Heike Schelges; Wolfhard Scholz; Claudia Jassoy
Original assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Current assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date: 2002-12-16
Filing date: 2003-11-25
Publication date: 2005-09-14
Also published as: WO2004054522A3; WO2004054522A2; DE10258958A1

Abstract

The invention relates to novel mild surfactant compositions that are mucosa compatible and suitable in particular for cleansing the extremely sensitive eye area. The novel surfactant compositions contain a combination of selected ethoxylated glycerol and/or citric acid esters and amphodiacetates, amphoacetates and/or C8-18 alkyl monoglycosides and C8-18 alkyloligoglycosides.

Description

"Mild surfactant compositions"

The present invention relates to new mild and mucous membrane-compatible surfactant compositions which are particularly suitable for cleaning the particularly sensitive area around the eyes. The new surfactant compositions are also suitable for the gentle care of particularly sensitive facial skin and for baby and child care.

Mild surfactant compositions have already been described in numerous numbers in the prior art. They are particularly interesting because many consumers describe their own skin type as sensitive, even if they do have a normal, healthy skin condition. Mildness is therefore a particularly important criterion when consumers choose a skin cleansing product. Furthermore, many consumers use a make-up, especially an eye make-up, whose thorough daily removal is urgently required for hygienic reasons. Therefore, there is also a great demand for special cleaning products in the make-up remover sector, which meet the high demands on cleaning performance on the one hand, and mildness and mucous membrane compatibility on the other hand, even with regular use.

Surprisingly, it has now been found that certain mixtures of surfactants which are already known to be mild have a particularly high skin tolerance in the in vivo patch test and a high tolerance to the mucous membrane and have proven to be even milder than the individual substances or as already known surfactant combinations. The new surfactant compositions contain a combination of selected ethoxylated glycerol and / or citric acid esters with amphodiacetates, amphoacetates and / or C ₈ -C ₈ alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides.

The present invention relates to mild surfactant compositions containing a cosmetic carrier

(A) at least one ethoxylated surfactant of the formula Ia, Ib or II, O

HO H

H .c- o- CH ₂ CH ₂ O 'n. H

(La)

where R ¹ C = O is a linear, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 8 to 22 carbon atoms and ni is a number from 1 to 20,

O

H ₂ COCR ²

HIGH

H ₂ CO - (- CH ₂ CH ₂ O -) - H ⁿ 2

(Ib)

where RC = O is a linear or branched, saturated acyl radical having 8 to 22 carbon atoms and n _{2 is} a number from 100 to 300, HO

(II)

wherein R ^{3 is} a linear or branched, saturated alkyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms and R ^{4 is} the acyl radical of an optionally sulfonated C ₃ -C ₆ dicarboxylic acid and (m + o + p) is a number from 2 to 10, and

(B) at least one surfactant selected from amphodiacetates, amphoacetates and C ₈ . ₁₈ - Alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides corresponding to the general formula RO- (Z) _x , where R stands for a C ₈ -C ₁₈ alkyl group, Z for a sugar residue and x for the number of sugar units, with the proviso that if ni is a number from 4 to 10 and / or n _{2 is} a number from 150 to 250, the surfactant (B) is not from C ₈ . ₁₈ alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides is selected.

It is preferred according to the invention that the surfactants of the formulas Ia and Ib each represent technical mixtures of substances with different substituents R ¹ C = O and R ² C = O and with different degrees of ethoxylation.

Preferred surfactants of the formula Ia are those in which the group R ¹ C = O is a linear, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 10 to 18 carbon atoms. R ¹ C = O is particularly preferably a lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, oleoyl or caprinoyl radical. Mixtures with a lauroyl content of approximately 40-55%, a myristoyl content of approximately 12-25% and palmitoyl, oleoyl and caprinoyl parts of approximately 5-15% each are extremely preferred. The degrees of ethoxylation n-] of the surfactants of the formula Ia are 1-20, preferably 2-13 and particularly preferably 4-10, very particularly preferably 7. A surfactant mixture with the INCI name PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate is particularly preferred. Preferred surfactants of the formula Ib are those in which the group R ² C = O is a linear, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 14 to 18 carbon atoms. The substituent R ² C = O is particularly preferably a myristoyl, palmitoyl or stearoyl radical. Mixtures with a stearoyl fraction of approximately 44-65%, a palmitoyl fraction of approximately 35-45% and a myristoyl content about 1 - 3%. The degrees of ethoxylation n _{2 of} the surfactants of the formula Ib are 100-300, preferably 150-250 and particularly preferably 175-225, very particularly preferably 200. A surfactant mixture with the INCI name PEG-200 Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmate is particularly preferred.

In a further particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, a mixture of surfactants of the formulas Ia and Ib is contained. An appropriate mixture for example is available as a commercial product Rewoderm ^® S 80 Ll Goldschmidt.

Suitable surfactants of the formula II are those in which R ^{3 is} a linear or branched, saturated alkyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms. R ³ is preferably a caprylyl, caprinyl, ethylhexyl, lauryl, ethyldecyl, myristyl, palmityl, cetyl, isocetyl, stearyl or isostearyl radical. The caprinyl, lauryl, myristyl and palmityl residues are particularly preferred; a lauryl residue is particularly preferred. R ⁴ represents the acyl residue of an optionally sulfonated C ₃ -C ₆ dicarboxylic acid or one of its salts, selected from malonic acid, succinic acid, sulfosuccinic acid, glutaric acid and adipic acid and their salts, a sulfosuccinate residue being particularly preferred. The average degree of ethoxylation, calculated as the sum (m + o + p), is 2-10, preferably 3-7 and particularly preferably 5. A surfactant mixture with the INCI name Disodium PEG-5 lauryl citrate sulfosuccinate, which is a commercial product Rewopol, is particularly preferred ^® SB CS 50 K from Goldschmidt is available.

The compositions according to the invention, which are packaged as aqueous cleaning agents, contain the surfactants of the formulas Ia, Ib and II in a total amount of 0.1-20% by weight, preferably 0.5-12% by weight and particularly preferably 1-10% by weight % Surfactant, based on the weight of the total composition.

In the anhydrous packaging of the compositions according to the invention, for. B. as impregnated dry cleaning wipes (so-called dry wipes), are the Contain surfactants of the formulas Ia, Ib and II in a total amount of 0.1-80% by weight, preferably 5-70% by weight, based on the weight of the impregnation.

The amphodiacetates are ampholytic surfactants of the general structural formula (IIIa) or (IIIa2),

Ia1) (Illa2)

where RC = O represents a linear, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 8 to 22 carbon atoms and M ^{+ is} a hydrogen ion, an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group or the cation of an ammonium organic base.

The amphoacetates are ampholytic surfactants of the general structural formula (IIIbl) or (Illb2),

(lllbl) (Illb2)

wherein R ⁵ C = O is a linear, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 8 to 22 carbon atoms and M ^{+ is} a hydrogen ion, an alkali or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group or the cation of an ammonium organic base. For the compounds of the formulas purple and IIIb which are suitable according to the invention, the group R ⁵ C = O is a linear or branched, saturated acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms. R ⁵ C = O is preferably a capryloyl, caprinoyl, ethylhexanoyl, lauroyl, ethyldecanoyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, cetoyl, isocetoyl, stearoyl or isostearoyl radical. Caprinoyl, lauroyl are particularly preferred -, myristoyl and palmitoyl residues, a lauroyl residue is particularly preferred. According to the invention particularly preferred is a surfactant of the formula IIIa with the INCI name Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, which is available as a commercial product Rewoteric AM ^® NM 2 C Goldschmidt.

The C ₈ according to the invention -ι ₈ alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides corresponding to the formula RO- (Z) _x, where R is a C ₈ - stands ₆ alkyl group, Z is glucose and x is the number of sugar units Ci, are preferred those in which R consists essentially of C ₈ - and C ₁₀ -alkyl groups, essentially from C-ι ₂ - and Cι ₄ - alkyl groups, essentially from C ₈ - to Cι ₆ -alkyl groups or essentially from C-ι ₂ - to C ₁₆ alkyl groups.

Any mono- or oligosaccharides can be used as the sugar building block Z. Sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are usually used, for example glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, old rose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose. Preferred sugar components are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred. The C ₈ used according to the invention. ₁₈ alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides contain an average of 1.1 to 5, preferably 1.1 to 2.0 and particularly preferably 1.1 to 1.8 sugar units.

The C ₈ -ι ₈ alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides are produced in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols with 8 to 18 carbon atoms. With regard to the glycoside residue, both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar residue is glycosidically bonded to the fatty alcohol and oligomeric glycosides with a degree of oligomerization of up to preferably about 8 are suitable. The degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean value which is based on a homolog distribution customary for such technical products. Products that are available under the trademark Plantacare ^® contain a glucosidically bound C ₈ -C ₁₆ alkyl group on an oligoglucoside residue, the average degree of oligomerization of which is 1-2. The compositions according to the invention, which are formulated as aqueous cleaning agents, contain the surfactants of group (B) in a total amount of 0.1-20% by weight, preferably 0.5-10% by weight and particularly preferably 1-5% by weight. Active surfactant, each based on the weight of the total composition.

In the anhydrous packaging of the compositions according to the invention, for. B. as impregnated dry cleaning wipes (so-called dry wipes), the surfactants of group (B) are contained in a total amount of 0.1-70% by weight, preferably 2-50% by weight, based on the weight of the impregnation.

The surfactants of group (A) and group (B) are contained in a weight ratio of 1: 2 to 4: 1, preferably 1: 1 to 2.5: 1.

It is also possible, although not preferred, that the compositions according to the invention contain further anionic, ampholytic, zwitterionic or cationic surfactants.

Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts with 2 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group:

- linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps),

- Ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH2-CH2θ) _χ -CH2-COOH, in which R is a linear

Is alkyl group with 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,

Acyl sarcosides with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Acyl taurides with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Acyl isethionates with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

linear alkanesulfonates with 8 to 24 carbon atoms,

- linear alpha olefin sulfonates with 8 to 24 carbon atoms,

- Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms,

Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ θ) _x -OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group with 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,

Mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates according to DE-A-37 25 030,

sulfated hydroxyalkyl polyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene propylene glycol ethers according to DE-A-37 23 354, Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids with 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds according to DE-A-39 26 344,

Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula (VI),

O

II

R29 (0CH2CH2) _n - O - P - OR30 (VI)

OX in the R ²⁹ preferably for an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ³⁰ for hydrogen, a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ²⁹ or X, n for numbers from 1 to 10 and X for hydrogen, an alkali - or alkaline earth metal or NR ³¹ R ³² R ³³ R ³⁴ , with R ³¹ to R ³⁴ independently of one another, represents a to C ₄ - hydrocarbon radical,

- Sulphated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of the formula R ³⁵ CO (AlkO) _n SO ₃ M, in which R ³⁵ CO - for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical with 6 to 22 C atoms, alk for CH ₂ CH ₂ , CHCH ₃ CH ₂ and / or CH ₂ CHCH ₃ , n represents numbers from 0.5 to 5 and M represents a cation, as described in DE-OS 197 36 906.5,

Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula (VIII),

CH ₂ O (CH2CH ₂ O) _z - SO3X

in which R ³⁶ CO stands for a linear or branched acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z in total for 0 or for numbers from 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X stands for an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride as well as their ethylene oxide adducts or their sulfuric acid trioxide form with sulfuric acid trioxide.

The additional anionic surfactants mentioned, which do not fall under the formula (II), are in the compositions according to the invention in a total amount of 0-5.0 % By weight, preferably 0-2.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0-1.5% by weight and extremely preferably 0-0.9% by weight.

Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C ₈ -C ₂₄ alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts , Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylaminopropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each with about 8 to 24 C. Atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acyl sarcosine.

The additional ampholytic surfactants mentioned, which do not fall under the formulas (purple) and (IIIb), are in the compositions according to the invention in total amounts of 0 to 5.0% by weight, preferably 0 to 2.5% by weight and particularly preferably 0-1.5% by weight.

Additional nonionic surfactants which do not fall under the formula (Ia) or (Ib) contain z. B. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether group. Such connections are, for example

- Adducts of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear and branched fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 C atoms, with fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms and with alkylphenols with 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group,

addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide which are end group-capped with a methyl or C ₂ -C ₆ -alkyl radical and linear and branched fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 C atoms, and fatty acids with 8 to 30 C- atoms and onto alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as the type available under the commercial names Dehydol ^® LS, Dehydol ^® LT (Cognis),

alkoxylated triglycerides, in particular adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hardened castor oil, - polyol, such as the commercially available product ^® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol - types (Cognis),

- Alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula R ³⁷ CO- (OCH ₂ CHR ³⁸ ) _w OR ³⁹ , (IX), in which R ³⁷ CO for a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ³⁸ for hydrogen or methyl, R ^{39 represents} linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w represents numbers from 1 to 20,

Amine oxides,

Hydroxy mixed ethers, as described, for example, in DE-OS 19738866,

Sorbitan fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as, for example, the polysorbates,

- Sugar fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters, e.g. Sisterna types (sucrose fatty acid esters), Glucate SS (methyl glucose sesquistearate) or Glucamate SSE (PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate),

- adducts of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,

- Fatty acid N-alkyl glucamides.

The additional nonionic surfactants mentioned which do not fall under the formula (Ia) or (Ib) are in the compositions according to the invention in total amounts of up to 5.0% by weight, preferably up to 4.0% by weight and particularly preferably up to 2 , 0% by weight.

Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -GOO ⁹ - or -SO ₃ ^H group in the molecule. Examples of zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut acylaminopropyl dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3 -carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. A zwitterionic surfactant commonly used in cosmetics is the fatty acid amide derivative known under the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Zwitterionic surfactants are contained in the compositions according to the invention in total amounts of 0-1.0% by weight, preferably 0-0.5% by weight. In a In a particularly preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention are free from zwitterionic surfactants.

The compositions according to the invention are preferably free from cationic surfactants.

If the compositions according to the invention are packaged as an aqueous cleaning agent, they can be presented as a propellant-free or propellant-containing mousse, in a spray container, as a washing gel, as a shower gel, washing lotion or in a similar form.

Suitable foam dispensers, which are operated without volatile propellants, are e.g. B. Squeeze bottles made of compressible plastic. Furthermore, containers made of different materials can be provided with a pump, in which, for. B. introduced through porous bodies or sieves air into the surfactant solution and so the surfactant solution is discharged as a foam. Furthermore, containers made of different materials with a nozzle, e.g. B. a fan jet nozzle or a pneumatic nozzle, which also allows the discharge of a foamed surfactant solution.

Suitable foam dispensers that are operated with volatile propellants are aerosol containers made of aluminum, tinplate, plastic or glass, which can be coated on the inside, with a suitable spray valve. Due to the compressed propellant contained, for. B. carbon dioxide, isobutane, butane, propane, pentane, isopentane, fluorocarbons or dimethyl ether, the surfactant solution is foamed when exiting.

In a further preferred embodiment, the aqueous-based compositions according to the invention are used to finish flexible carriers, such as foams, sponges and woven and non-woven cloths. The carriers can be configured in one or more layers. If the carrier materials soaked in this way are not subsequently dried, they can be offered as wet cleaning wipes. In a further preferred embodiment, the carriers equipped with the water-containing or anhydrous compositions according to the invention are dried after impregnation to a water content of less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, based on the weight of the impregnated carrier. The carriers produced in this way are used as dry wipes, so-called dry wipes, offered. For use, they are moistened with water, then the surfaces to be treated are wiped with the moistened wipes.

The compositions according to the invention can be used in any of the dosage forms shown above for cleaning the body, scalp, face and mucous membranes. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention serve to remove make-up, in particular to remove waterproof make-up. The compositions according to the invention are equally suitable for cleaning particularly sensitive skin, in particular the skin of babies and children.

Another object of the present invention is a non-therapeutic method for cleaning and / or removing make-up from the skin, facial skin and / or mucous membranes. Another object of the present invention is a non-therapeutic method for cleaning baby or children's skin. For both methods, the compositions according to the invention are applied either directly or with the aid of a carrier to the skin area to be treated, possibly rubbed in and then rinsed off with water. The rinsing step can be omitted when treating with a damp or dry cloth.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one oil component which is liquid at 25 ° C. Suitable oil components are, for example

branched primary alcohols, in particular Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 22, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms,

- The esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₃ -C ₂₂ fatty acids or the dimers of unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids (dimer fatty acids) with a) monovalent linear, branched or cyclic C ₂ -C ₂₂ alkanols , b) polyvalent linear or branched C ₂ -C ₆ alkanols, c) polyglycerols of the formula CH ₂ OH-CHOH-CH ₂ [-O-CH ₂ -CHOH-CH ₂ ] _n -O-CH ₂ -CHOH-CH ₂ OH where n = 0 - 8, or d) the dicarboxylic acid and Tricarbonsäureestem of linear and branched C ₂ -C ₁₀ alkanols, wherein as preferred components a) esters of linear C ₆ - C ₂₂ - fatty acids with linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, so-called wax esters, provided they are liquid at 25 ° C, such as jojoba oil, continue to use the liquid ones Mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on C ₆ -C ₁₈ fatty acids and vegetable oils and as preferred component d) citric acid triethyl ester can be mentioned,

Esters of linear and branched C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ alkanols of mono- and polyvalent C ₂ -C ₇ hydroxycarboxylic acids, which can be aromatic, in particular benzoic acid (eg Finsolv ^® TN),

- Dialkyl ether, e.g. B. dioctyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE),

Ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils and their derivatives,

- Aliphatic hydrocarbons, e.g. B. paraffin oils and isoparaffin oils,

- alicyclic hydrocarbons containing no atoms other than carbon and hydrogen, e.g. B. substituted cyclohexanes such as 1, 3-bis (2-ethylhexyl) cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S), symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with linear and branched C ₈ -C ₁₈ alkanols, e.g. B. Cetiol ^® CC,

- and addition products of 2 to 30 mol of propylene oxide with mono- or polyvalent C ₃ -C ₂₀ -alkanols, for. B. PPG-14-butyl ether (Ucon Fluid AP).

Furthermore, the compositions according to the invention can also contain mixtures of oil bodies which are liquid at 25 ° C, but individual constituents of the mixture can be solid at 25 ° C.

The compositions according to the invention contain the oil component or oil body mixture which is liquid at 25 ° C. in amounts of 0.1-20% by weight, preferably 0.5-10% by weight, and particularly preferably 1-5% by weight, in each case based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain one or more antioxidants. Suitable antioxidants are amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazole and imidazole derivatives (e.g. urocanic acid), peptides such as e.g. B. D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (z. B. Anserin), carotenoids, carotenes (z. B. α-carotene, ß-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thio compounds (e.g. thioglycerin, thiosorbitol, thioglycolic acid, thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, Methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl, lauryl, Palmityl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (e.g. B. buthioninsulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthioninsulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathioninsulfoximine) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. pmol / kg to μmol / kg), also metal chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, EDTA, EGTA, Phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acids, bile acid, bile extracts, gallic acid esters (e.g. propyl, octyl and dodecyl gallate), flavonoids, catechins, bilirubin, biliverdin and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, arachidonic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, hydroquinone and their derivatives (e.g. arbutin), ubiquinone and ubichi nol and its derivatives, vitamin C and its derivatives (e.g. As ascorbyl palmitate, stearate, dipalmitate, acetate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, sodium and magnesium ascorbate, disodium ascorbyl phosphate and sulfate, potassium ascorbyl tocopheryl phosphate, chitosan ascorbate), isoascorbic acid and its derivatives, tocopherol and their tocopherol and B. linoleate, oleate and succinate, tocophereth-5, tocophereth-10, tocophereth-12, tocophereth-18, tocophereth-50, tocopherol), vitamin A and derivatives (e.g. vitamin A palmitate), the coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, disodium rutinyl disulfate, cinnamic acid and its derivatives (e.g. ferulic acid, ethyl ferulate, caffeic acid), kojic acid, chitosan glycolate and salicylate, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, trihydric hydroxylated hydroxychloride, trihydric hydroxylated acid, , Uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and zinc derivatives (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO), selenium and selenium derivatives (e.g. selenium methionine), stilbene and stilbene Derivatives (e.g. B. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide). According to the invention, suitable derivatives (salts, esters, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) as well as mixtures of these active ingredients or plant extracts (e.g. tea tree oil, rosemary extract and rosemary acid) containing these antioxidants can be used.

Preferred lipophilic, oil-soluble antioxidants from this group are tocopherol and its derivatives, gallic acid esters, flavonoids and carotenoids, and butylated hydroxytoluene / anisole. As water-soluble antioxidants are amino acids, e.g. B. tyrosine and cysteine and their derivatives and tannins, especially those of plant origin are preferred. The total amount of the antioxidants in the compositions according to the invention is 0.001-10% by weight, preferably 0.05-5% by weight and in particular 0.05-2% by weight, based on the overall composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one water-soluble polyol, selected from water-soluble diols, triols and higher alcohols and polyethylene glycols. Among the diols are C ₂ -C ₂ diols, in particular 1,2-propylene glycol, butylene glycols such as. B. 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and 1,4-butylene glycol, pentanediols, e.g. B. 1,2-pentanediol, and hexanediols, e.g. B. 1,6-hexanediol. Glycerol and technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10, such as technical diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight or triglycerol, furthermore 1, 2,6-hexanetriol and polyethylene glycols (PEG) with a average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons, for example PEG-400, PEG-600 or PEG-1000. Other suitable higher alcohols are the C -, C ₅ - and C ₆ -monosaccharides and the corresponding sugar alcohols, e.g. B. mannitol or sorbitol.

The compositions according to the invention contain the water-soluble polyol in amounts of 1-50% by weight, preferably 1-15% by weight and particularly preferably 1-5% by weight, in each case based on the overall composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the inventive

Compositions of at least one cosmetic or dermatological active ingredient.

The cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients particularly preferably have a nourishing, astringent, sebum-regulating or anti-acne effect.

The active ingredients are selected from vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors, water and oil-soluble plant extracts, mono-, di-oligo- and polysaccharides and their derivatives, from protein hydrolyzates and other components with cosmetic and dermatological effects.

Of the vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors, preferred according to the invention are those which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H.

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin

Ai) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The ß-carotene is the provitamin of

Retinol. According to the invention, vitamin A comes as vitamin A component, for example

A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters like the palmitate and the acetate. Some of these substances come

Anti acne effect too.

The vitamin B group or vitamin B complex include a.

• Vitamin Bi (thiamine)

Vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin)

Vitamin B ₃ .

The compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often listed under the name Vitamin B ₃ . In addition to these two substances, the following derivatives are preferably used in the agents according to the invention: nicotinyl alcohol, nicotinic acid esters, nicotinyl amino acids, nicotinyl alcohol esters of carboxylic acids, nicotinic acid N-oxide and niacinamide N-oxide. The nicotinic acid esters preferably carry a C ₁ . ₂₂ -alkanol radical and particularly preferably a C ^ -alkanol radical, where the alkanol radicals can be straight-chain or branched, cyclic or acyclic, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, unsubstituted or substituted. Further niacinamide derivatives result from the substitution of the hydrogen atoms of the amide group, e.g. B. the nicotinyl hydroxamic acid. Preferred nicotinyl alcohol esters are the salicylates, acetates, glycolates and palmitates.

• Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid and panthenol). Within this group, panthenol is preferably used. Derivatives of panthenol that can be used according to the invention are in particular the esters and ethers of panthenol and cationically derivatized panthenols. Particularly preferred representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and the cationic panthenol derivatives disclosed in WO 92/13829. Pantolactone, a precursor of pantothenic acid, can also be used with preference.

• Vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine as well as pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Ascorbic acid for cosmetic use is preferably used in the form of the palmitic acid ester.

Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). In the invention

Agents are preferred tocopherol and its derivatives, especially esters like that

Acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate used.

Vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" usually means essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.

Vitamin H. The compound (3aS, 4S, 6af?) - 2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-

Gfl-imidazole-4-valeric acid, but for which meanwhile the Trivial name biotin has prevailed. Biotin is contained in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 0.1% by weight, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.

The agents according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H.

Panthenol and its derivatives, as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred active ingredients in vitamins.

The compositions according to the invention can contain plant extracts. Plant extracts are usually produced by extracting the entire plant, but in individual cases also exclusively from flowers and / or leaves and / or other parts of plants. With regard to the plant extracts which can be used according to the invention, reference is made in particular to the extracts which are listed in the table beginning on page 44 of the 3rd edition of the guide to the declaration of ingredients of cosmetic products, published by the Industrieverband Körperpflege- und Waschmittel eV (IKW), Frankfurt. According to the invention, the extracts from the meristem, i.e. the divisible educational tissue of the plants, and special plants such as witch hazel, chamomile, calendula, pansies, peaeon, aloe vera, horse chestnut, sage, willow bark, cinnamon tree, chrysanthemums, oak bark, Nettle, hops, burdock root, horsetail, white dome, linden flowers, almonds, spruce needles, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, kiwi, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, melon, orange, grapefruit, avocado, rosemary, birch, beech sprouts, mallow, meadow foam Yarrow, quendel, thyme, lemon balm, hake, marshmallow, black currant leaves, coltsfoot, pentagon herb, ginseng, ginger root and green tea preferred. The extracts from blue-green algae (cyanobacteria), e.g. B. Spirulina, red algae and green algae can be used. The algae can be of natural origin as well as biotechnologically produced and modified if necessary. The extracts from spirulina, witch hazel, meristem, chamomile, marigold, peaonia, aloe vera, horse chestnut, sage, cinnamon tree, green tea, willow bark and chrysanthemums are particularly preferred. The agents according to the invention can also contain mixtures of several, in particular two, different plant extracts. Water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used as extractants for the production of the plant extracts mentioned. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol, both as the sole extractant and in a mixture with water, are preferred. According to the invention, steam distillation is one of the preferred extraction processes. According to the invention, the plant extracts can be used both in pure and in dilute form; The chamomile active ingredient bisabolol is particularly preferably used as the pure substance.

Mono-, di-, oligosaccharides and polysaccharides and their derivatives used with particular preference are glucose, galactose, fructose, fucose and lactose, honey, honey extracts and high-fucose polysaccharides.

The compositions according to the invention can contain protein hydrolyzates. Preferred protein hydrolyzates can be of animal origin, for example from collagen, fish collagen, milk or keratin, from plants, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soybeans, almonds or algae, or from yeasts and by biotechnological processes. Vegetable, yeast and chitin protein hydrolyzates are particularly preferred. The protein hydrolyzates can also be used cationized. Preferred cationic protein hydrolyzates are those whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 Daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 Daltons. Particularly preferred cationic protein hydrolyzates are chitosans, ie partially deacetylated chitin derivatives, e.g. B. available as a commercial product Hydagen ^® .

Particularly preferred components with a cosmetic and dermatological effect are also allantoin, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA) and their esters with fatty alcohols, isolauryl thioether and its derivatives, and salicylic acid, its esters and its salts. In the sense of the invention, sebum-regulating active ingredients are particularly preferably selected from water and oil-soluble extracts from witch hazel, burdock root and nettle, cinnamon tree extract (e.g. Sepicontrol ^® A5 from Seppic), chrysanthemum extract (e.g. Laricyl ^® from Laboratoires Serobiologiques) and from commercially available active ingredient mixtures, e.g. B. Asebiol ^® BT 2 (INCI: Aqua, Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein, Pyridoxine, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Panthenol, Allantoin, Biotin) from Laboratoires Serobiologiques and Antifettfactor ^® COS-218/2-A (from Cosmetochem, INCI: Aqua, Cetyl -PCA, PEG-8 isolauryl thioether, PCA, cetyl alcohol).

For the purposes of the invention, astringent active ingredients are particularly preferably selected from water- and oil-soluble extracts from witch hazel, willow bark, oak bark, five-finger cabbage, ribwort and sage. Antimicrobial active ingredients are selected according to the invention particularly preferably from water- and oil-soluble extracts of the leaves of the black currant, chamomile flowers, cloves, burdock root, pansy, plantain and green tea and from terpene alcohols, for. B. Farnesol, and components of linden blossom oil. In addition, organohalogen compounds, organohalides, quaternary ammonium compounds and zinc compounds can be used to inhibit germs. These include, among others, triclosan, chlorhexidine and chlorhexidine gluconate, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, bromochlorophene, dichlorophene, chlorothymol, chloroxylenol, hexachlorophene, cloflucarban, dichloro-m-xylenol, dequalinium chloride, domiphen bromide, ammonium phenolsalkonium halonate, benzalkonphosphonate, benzalkonphosphonate, benzalkonphosphonate, benzalkonphosphonate, benzalkonphosphonate, benzalkonphosphonate, benzalkonphosphonate, benzalkonphosphonate, benzalkonphosphonate, benzalkonphosphonate, benzalkonphosphonate, benzalkonphosphonate, benzylphonate phosphonate, Benzethonium chloride, lauryl pyridinium chloride, lauryl iso quinolinium bromide, cetyl pyridinium chloride and methyl benzonium chloride. Furthermore, phenol, phenoxyethanol, disodium dihydroxyethylsulfosuccinylundecylenate, sodium bicarbonate, zinc lactate, zinc phenolsulfonate and sodium phenolsulfonate, ketoglutaric acid, chlorophyllin-copper complexes, glycerol monoalkyl ether, fatty acids and carboxylic acid esters of mono-, di- and tri-monolinate glycerol glycerol glycerol.

The compositions according to the invention are used for cleaning and / or for removing make-up from the facial skin, the area around the eyes, the mucous membranes and / or for baby and child care.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention without restricting it thereto.

Example recipes:

Example 1: cleaning foam

The individual components are mixed together. The finished composition 1 was filled into a propellant-free spray container (Airfoamer F2, manufacturer: Airspray International BN.). This enables composition 1 to be removed as foam. In other exemplary embodiments, composition 1 was packaged in such a way that it was discharged by a propellant gas such as carbon dioxide, butane, isobutane, propane or pentane and mixtures of these gases. When using the higher-boiling pentane, possibly in a mixture with butane and / or isobutane, a foaming cleaning foam is created. For example, the finished composition 1 was filled with a butane / isobutane propellant gas mixture in the propellant gas: composition weight ratio of 4:96 into an aerosol can made of internally coated aluminum. In another example, the finished composition 1 was filled with a butane / isobutane propellant gas mixture in the propellant gas: composition weight ratio of 5:95 in an aerosol can made of internally coated tinplate. Example 2

Example 3

Dermatological product evaluation

The surfactant formulations were examined in the HET-CAM test. The test is an in vitro test method that is suitable for assessing the mucous membrane compatibility of substances and formulations - especially surfactant compounds. With regard to this endpoint, the model is widely recognized at EU level.

The test samples were examined undiluted in the HET-CAM test using the reaction time method (reaction course over 30 seconds). The solutions were adjusted to a pH of approx. 5.

The following results were achieved:

Surfactant mixture 1: Mixture Rewoderm Ll S 80 / Rewoteric AM 2 C in a weight ratio of 3.2: 6.8, based on the active substance

Surfactant mixture 2: Mix Rewopol ^® SB CS 50 K / Plantacare ^® 1200 in a weight ratio of 4: 6, based on the active substance

Surfactant mixture 3: mixture Rewopol ^® SB CS 50 K / Rewoteric ^® AM 2 C in a weight ratio of 5: 5, based on the active substance

Investigation in the patch test

The patch test is a test design that is suitable for comparing tensides and surfactant formulations with regard to their irritation potential on human skin. The objectifiable parameters erythema, edema, scaling and fissure are evaluated as end products. The surfactant mixtures were tested in a concentration of 10% by weight of active substance over 24 hours on 20 test subjects. The reactions were assessed 6, 24, 48 and 72 after the patches were removed.

The result is the following picture.

∑E = total score erythema

∑EÖSF = total score erythema, edema, scaling, fissure

Surfactant mixture 1: Mixture Rewoderm ^® Ll S 80 / Rewoteric ^® AM 2 C in a weight ratio of 3.2: 6.8, based on the active substance

List of raw materials used

Claims

claims

1. Mild surfactant composition, in particular for cleaning the area around the eyes, containing in a cosmetic carrier (A) at least one ethoxylated surfactant of the formula Ia, Ib or II,

O

UCOR ¹

HO H

(La)

where R ¹ C = O is a linear, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 8 to 22 carbon atoms and n _{1 is} a number from 1 to 20,

O

H ₂ COCR ²

HIGH

H ₂ CO -f- CH ₂ CH ₂ O -) ^ - H

(Ib) where R ² C = O is a linear or branched, saturated acyl radical having 8 to 22 carbon atoms and n _{2 is} a number from 100 to 300,

(II)

where R is a linear or branched, saturated alkyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms and R ^{4 is} the acyl radical of an optionally sulfonated C ₃ -C ₆ -dicarboxylic acid and (m + o + p) is a number from 2 to 10, and

(B) at least one surfactant selected from amphodiacetates, amphoacetates and C ₈ . ₁₈ alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides corresponding to the general formula RO- (Z) _x , where R is a C ₈ -C ₁₈ alkyl group, Z is a sugar residue and x is the number of sugar units, with the proviso that if ^ is a number from 4 to 10 and / or n _{2 is} from 150 to 250, the surfactant (B) is not from C ₈ . ₁₈ alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides is selected.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that R ¹ C = O is a lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, oleoyl or caprinoyl radical and n _{1 is} a number from 2 to 13.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that R ² C = O is a myristoyl, palmitoyl or stearoyl radical and n _{2 is} a number from 150-250.

4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that a mixture of surfactants of the formulas la and Ib is included.

5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that R ^{3 represents} a caprinyl, lauryl, myristyl or palmityl radical.

6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that R ^{4 represents} the acyl radical of an optionally sulfonated C ₃ -C ₆ dicarboxylic acid or one of its salts, selected from malonic acid, succinic acid, sulfosuccinic acid, glutaric acid and adipic acid and their salts.

7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the surfactants of group (A) and group (B) are contained in a weight ratio of 1: 2 to 4: 1.

8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that additional anionic surfactants which do not fall under the formula (II) are present in total amounts of 0 to 5.0% by weight.

9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that no zwitterionic or cationic surfactants are contained.

10. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is made up as a propellant-free or propellant-containing mousse, in a spray container, as a washing gel, as a shower gel, washing lotion, as a moist cleaning cloth or as a dry cleaning cloth.

11. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains at least one oil component or oil body mixture which is liquid at 25 ° C.

12. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains at least one water-soluble polyol.

13. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains at least one cosmetic or dermatological active ingredient.

14. Use of a mild surfactant composition according to any one of claims 1-13 for cleaning and / or removing make-up from the facial skin, the area around the eyes, the mucous membranes and / or for baby and child care.

15. Non-therapeutic method for cleaning and / or removing make-up from the skin, the facial skin and / or the mucous membranes or for cleaning baby or children's skin, characterized in that a mild surfactant composition according to any one of claims 1-13 is applied directly to the one to be treated Skin area applied, possibly rubbed and then rinsed with water.

16. Non-therapeutic method for cleaning and / or removing make-up from the skin, the facial skin and / or the mucous membranes or for cleaning baby or children's skin, characterized in that a mild surfactant composition according to any one of claims 1-13 with the aid of a carrier the area of skin to be treated is applied, possibly rubbed in and optionally rinsed with water.