EP1396259A2 - Make-up Zusammensetzung für Keratinfasern - Google Patents

Make-up Zusammensetzung für Keratinfasern Download PDF

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Publication number
EP1396259A2
EP1396259A2 EP03102701A EP03102701A EP1396259A2 EP 1396259 A2 EP1396259 A2 EP 1396259A2 EP 03102701 A EP03102701 A EP 03102701A EP 03102701 A EP03102701 A EP 03102701A EP 1396259 A2 EP1396259 A2 EP 1396259A2
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
composition according
composition
les
weight
ranging
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EP03102701A
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English (en)
French (fr)
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EP1396259A3 (de
Inventor
Nathalie Jager-Lezer
Mireille Arnaud-Roux
Valérie de la Poterie
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/894—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a polyoxyalkylene group, e.g. cetyl dimethicone copolyol
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara

Definitions

  • the object of the present invention is a makeup composition for keratin fibers, in particular eyelashes, having a high dry extract combined with a flowing rheological profile particular in order to lead to a deposit of product on the fiber which is smooth and continuous.
  • compositions of keratin fibers and, in particular eyelashes can be present under different forms: solid-liquid dispersions hydrophilic or hydrophobic continuous phase. These dispersions can come in either the form lipophilic / hydrophilic or hydrophilic / emulsions lipophilic or lipophilic / lipophilic (the 2 phases lipophilic being immiscible), either in the form of gel.
  • compositions are characterized by a dry extract which is mainly an oily phase dispersed consisting of one or more waxes so to bring matter on the eyelashes and therefore a more or less volumizing makeup result (the eyelash makeup is more or less thick).
  • the solids of the phase fatty can also come in the form coloring agent (pigment, lacquer, mother-of-pearl) and / or powdery charge.
  • the increase in the dry extract is therefore mainly limited by increased consistency and generally does not exceed 44% of the total weight of the composition.
  • Another way to improve the effect volumizer is to increase the stickiness of the product on the eyelashes by playing on the stickiness of the composition to promote the grip of mascara on eyelashes and on himself during applications of the brush.
  • sticky additives such as wax or film-forming polymers.
  • the object of the present invention is to providing a fiber makeup composition keratin, especially the eyelashes, which responds between others as required above.
  • the solids content is measured in accordance with the solids content measurement protocol explained at the end of the description.
  • the rheological profile is determined in accordance with the flow profile measurement protocol explained at the end of the description.
  • said reports are less than 5, preferably less than 4.5, better still less than 1.5.
  • compositions having a continuous flow that is to say without fracturing
  • homogeneous that is to say without formation of bundles
  • the maximum value of the shear gradient range (10 3 s -1 ) must be considered, taking into account the measurement uncertainties linked to the device used. In the range considered, the maximum value of 10 3 s -1 must be taken into account with a measurement uncertainty of ⁇ 150 s -1 .
  • such a composition contains a solids solids content greater than 46%, preferably more than 47%, even more preferably greater than 48% or better yet greater than 50% of the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition has a dry extract solids less than 85% by weight, preferably less than 75%, and better still less than 65% of the weight total of the composition.
  • the aforementioned composition characteristics can be obtained by a composition comprising at least one fatty phase comprising at least one structuring agent of said fatty phase, which advantageously has defined stickiness and hardness properties.
  • the total fatty phase of the composition can represent from 10 to 60%, preferably from 15 to 50%, more preferably 20 to 40% of the total weight of composition.
  • Such a fatty phase structuring agent can be chosen from sticky waxes, associations of a particular compound with at least one oil and mixtures thereof.
  • the presence of an oil can be particularly suitable for a care composition or cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, in especially eyelashes.
  • Such structuring agents have the advantage of be able to be incorporated at very high contents up to 50% by weight of the composition without significantly increasing the consistency.
  • the composition can comprise from 0.1 to 60%, preferably 5 to 55% by weight, preferably still from 10 to 40% by weight of structuring agent.
  • Another advantage is that the use of this type of compound also makes it possible to obtain compositions whose consistency allows application easy and consistent.
  • the term “wax” means a fatty compound lipophilic, solid at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg, i.e. 105 Pa), at reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting temperature above 30 ° C and better higher than 55 ° C and up to 200 ° C, especially up to 120 ° C.
  • Melting point values correspond, according to the invention, to the melting peak measured using a scanning calorimeter differential (D.S.C.), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by METLER, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 ° C per minute.
  • D.S.C. scanning calorimeter differential
  • C 20 -C 40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), in particular an alkyl 12- (12 hydroxystearyloxy) stearate.
  • C 20 -C 40 of formula (I): in which n is an integer ranging from 18 to 38, or a mixture of compounds of formula (I).
  • Such a wax is sold in particular under the names “KESTER WAX K 82 P” and “KESTER WAX K 80 P ”by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.
  • the particular compound can be chosen among the semi-crystalline polymers, the agents rheological fatty phase; and their mixtures.
  • the semi-crystalline polymer association with at least an oil advantageously has a tack from 1 to 5 N.s and a hardness value of 0.1 to 20 Mpa.
  • volatile compound for example “volatile oil”, is meant, within the meaning of the invention, any compound (or non-aqueous medium) capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the fiber keratin in less than an hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile compound is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 -3 at 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).
  • non-volatile compound means, for example “non-volatile oil", a compound remaining on the skin or the keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure below 10 -3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).
  • the oil can be chosen from all physiologically acceptable oils and in particular cosmetically acceptable, especially oils mineral, animal, vegetable, synthetic; in especially hydrocarbon and / or silicone oils and / or volatile or non-volatile fluorines and their mixtures.
  • oil hydrocarbon means an oil comprising mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms and possibly one or more selected functions among the hydroxyl, ester and ether functions, carboxylic acid.
  • oil has a viscosity from 0.5 to 100,000 cps, preferably from 50 to 50,000 cps and more preferably 100 to 300,000 cps.
  • polymer of the compounds comprising at least two units, preferably at least 3 patterns and more especially at minus 10 repeating patterns.
  • semi-crystalline polymer we mean polymers comprising a crystallizable part, a hanging chain crystallizable or a crystallizable sequence in the skeleton, and an amorphous part in the skeleton and having a phase change temperature reversible of the first order, in particular of fusion (solid-liquid transition).
  • the party crystallizable is in the form of a sequence crystallizable from the polymer backbone
  • the part amorphous of the polymer is in block form amorphous
  • the semi-crystalline polymer is in this case a block copolymer, for example of the diblock type, triblock or multiblock, comprising at least one sequence crystallizable and at least one amorphous sequence.
  • sequence is generally understood to mean at least 5 patterns of identical repetition.
  • the sequence (s) crystallizable are then of a chemical nature different from the amorphous sequence (s).
  • the semi-crystalline polymer according to the invention has a higher melting temperature or equal to 30 ° C (in particular ranging from 30 ° C to 80 ° C), preferably ranging from 30 ° C to 60 ° C.
  • This temperature of fusion is a state change temperature the first order.
  • This melting temperature can be measured by any known method and in particular at using a differential scanning calorimeter (D.S.C).
  • the polymer (s) to which the invention applies have a number average molecular weight greater than or equal to 1000.
  • the semi-crystalline polymer (s) of the composition of the invention have a number-average molecular mass M n ranging from 2,000 to 800,000, preferably from 3,000 to 500,000, better from 4,000 to 150,000, especially less than 100,000, and better from 4,000 to 99,000.
  • M n number-average molecular mass
  • they Preferably, they have an average molecular weight in numbers greater than 5,600, ranging for example from 5,700 to 99,000.
  • chain or crystallizable sequence we hear within the meaning of the invention a chain or sequence which if it were alone would go from amorphous to the crystalline state, reversibly, depending on which one is above or below the melting temperature.
  • a chain within the meaning of the invention is a group of atoms, pendant or lateral to the skeleton of the polymer.
  • a sequence is a grouping of atoms belonging to the skeleton, group constituting one of repeating patterns of the polymer.
  • the "pendant crystallizable chain” can be chain having at least 6 carbon atoms.
  • the sequence (s) or crystallizable chains of semi-crystalline polymers represent at least 30% of the total weight of each polymer and better at least 40%.
  • Semi-crystalline polymers of the invention with crystallizable sequences are polymers, block or multi-block. They can be obtained by polymerization of monomer to reactive (or ethylenic) double bonds or by polycondensation. When the polymers of the invention are polymers with crystallizable side chains, these are advantageously in random form or statistical.
  • semi-crystalline polymers of the invention are of synthetic origin. In addition, they do not have a skeleton polysaccharide.
  • the reasons (chains or blocks) crystallizable from polymers semi-crystalline according to the invention come from monomer (s) with sequence (s) or chain (s) crystallizable, used for the manufacture of semi-crystalline polymers.
  • the semi-crystalline polymer can be chosen from copolymers sequenced with at least one sequence crystallizable and at least one amorphous sequence, the homopolymers and copolymers bearing at least one side chain crystallizable by repeating pattern, their mixtures.
  • these polymers are chosen in particular from homopolymers and copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer with crystallizable chain (s) which can be represented by formula X: with M representing an atom of the polymer backbone, S representing a spacer, C representing a crystallizable group.
  • s monomer with crystallizable chain
  • the “-SC” crystallizable chains can be aliphatic or aromatic, optionally fluorinated or perfluorinated.
  • “S” represents in particular a group (CH 2 ) n or (CH 2 CH 2 O) n or (CH 2 O), linear or branched or cyclic, with n integer ranging from 0 to 22.
  • Preferably “S” is a linear group.
  • Preferably, "S" and "C" are different.
  • the "-SC" crystallizable chains are aliphatic hydrocarbon chains, they comprise alkyl hydrocarbon chains with at least 11 carbon atoms and at most 40 carbon atoms and better still at most 24 carbon atoms. These are in particular aliphatic chains or alkyl chains having at least 12 carbon atoms and preferably, they are C 14 -C 24 alkyl chains. When it is fluorinated or perfluorinated alkyl chains, they contain at least 6 fluorinated carbon atoms and in particular at least 11 carbon atoms of which at least 6 carbon atoms are fluorinated.
  • alkyl (meth) acrylates saturated with the C alkyl group 14 -C 24 perfluoroalkyl (meth) acrylates with a C 11 -C 15 perfluoro alkyl group
  • C 14 to C 24 alphaolefins such as for
  • crystallizable chains hydrocarbon and / or fluorinated as defined above are carried by a monomer which can be a diacid, a diol, a diamine, a di-isocyanate.
  • alkyl is meant in the sense of the invention a saturated group in particular in C 8 to C 24 , unless expressly mentioned, and better in C 14 to C 24 .
  • ⁇ ) of Z which is a polar monomer or a mixture of polar monomers. In this case, Z has the same definition as the "polar Y" defined above.
  • the semi-crystalline polymers with a crystallizable side chain are homopolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylate or of alkyl (meth) acrylamide with an alkyl group as defined above, and in particular of C 14 -C 24 , copolymers of these monomers with a hydrophilic monomer preferably of a different nature from (meth) acrylic acid such as N-vinylpyrrolidone or hydroxyethyl (meth) acrylate and their mixtures.
  • the semi-crystalline polymers of the composition of the invention may or may not be partially cross-linked as long as the rate of crosslinking does not interfere with their dissolution or dispersion in the liquid fatty phase by heating above their melting temperature. It can then be a chemical crosslinking, by reaction with a monomer multifunctional during polymerization. he can also be a physical crosslinking which can then be due either to the establishment of standard connections hydrogen or dipole between groups carried by the polymer like for example the dipolar interactions between carboxylate ionomers, these interactions being in small quantity and carried by the skeleton of the polymer; either a phase separation between the crystallizable sequences and amorphous sequences, carried by the polymer.
  • semi-crystalline polymers of the composition according to the invention are not cross-linked.
  • the polymer is chosen from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer with a crystallizable chain chosen from saturated C 14 -C 24 alkyl (meth) acrylates, C 11 to C 15 perfluoroalkyl (meth) acrylates, C 14 to C 24 N (meth) acrylamides with or without fluorine atom, vinyl esters with C 14 to C 24 alkyl or perfluoroalkyl chains, ethers vinyl alkyl or perfluoroalkyl chains, C 14 to C 24 alpha-olefins C 14 -C 24, para-alkylstyrenes with an alkyl group having 12 to 24 carbon atoms, with at least one ester or acid amide optionally fluorinated C 1 to C 10 monocarboxylic, which can be represented by the following formula: in which R 1 is H or CH 3, R represents an optionally fluorinated C 1 -C 10 alkyl group and X represents O
  • the polymer is derived from a monomer with a crystallizable chain chosen from C 14 to C 22 saturated alkyl (meth) acrylates.
  • Landec Intelimer® products described in the brochure "Intelimer® polymers", Landec IP22 (Rev. 4-97). These polymers are in solid form at room temperature (25 ° C). They are carriers of crystallizable side chains and have the previous formula X.
  • clays which may be modified, such as hectorites modified with ammonium chloride of C 10 to C 22 fatty acid, such as hectorite modified with di-stearyl di-methyl ammonium chloride.
  • Hydrophobic fumed silica has preferably a particle size which can be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm.
  • the polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example partially or fully crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes, of three-dimensional structure, such as those sold under the names KSG6, KSG16, KSG18 from Shin-Etsu, Trefil E-505C or Trefil E-506C from Dow-Corning, Gransil SR-CYC, SR DMF10, SR-DC556, SR 5CYC gel, SR DMF 10 gel, SR DC 556 gel from Grant Industries, SF 1204 and JK 113 from General Electric; ethylcellulose such as those sold under the name of Ethocel by Dow Chemical; polyamides such as copolymers of a C 36 diacid condensed on ethylene diamine with a weight average molecular weight of approximately 6000 such as the compounds marketed by the company Arizona Chemical under the names Uniclear 80 and Uniclear 100, gums in particular silicones such as PDMS having a viscosity> 100,000 centistokes, galact
  • the preferred lipophilic gelling agent uses molecular organic gelling agents not polymers, also called organogelators, which are compounds whose molecules are capable to establish physical interactions between them leading to self-aggregation of molecules with formation of a 3D supra-molecular network which is responsible for the gelation of the fatty phase liquid.
  • organogelators are compounds whose molecules are capable to establish physical interactions between them leading to self-aggregation of molecules with formation of a 3D supra-molecular network which is responsible for the gelation of the fatty phase liquid.
  • liquid fatty phase means, at sense of the invention, a liquid fatty phase with ambient temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg, or 105 Pa), composed of one or more liquid fat at room temperature, also called oils, generally compatible with each other.
  • the supra-molecular network can result the formation of a network of fibrils (due to stacks or aggregations of molecules organogelator), immobilizing the molecules of the liquid fatty phase.
  • the physical interactions are diverse but exclude co-crystallization. These interactions in particular are interactions of the type self-complementary hydrogen interactions, ⁇ interactions between unsaturated cycles, interactions dipoles, coordination bonds with derivatives organometallic and their associations.
  • every molecule of an organogelator can establish several types of physical interactions with a neighboring molecule.
  • the molecules organogelators according to the invention comprise at minus a group capable of establishing links hydrogen and better still at least two groups capable establish hydrogen bonds, at least one cycle aromatic and better at least two aromatic cycles, at least one or more unsaturated bonds ethylenic and / or at least one or more carbons asymmetrical.
  • the groups capable to make hydrogen bonds are chosen from hydroxyl, carbonyl, amine, acid groups carboxylic, amide, urea, benzyl and their associations.
  • the organogelator (s) according to the invention are soluble in the liquid fatty phase after heating until a liquid phase is obtained homogeneous transparent. They can be solid or liquids at room temperature and pressure atmospheric.
  • the molecular organogelator (s) usable in the composition according to the invention are especially those described in the document "Specialist Surfactants ", edited by D. Robb from 1997, p.209-263, chapter 8 of P. Terech, European applications EP-A-1068854 and EP-A-1086945 or in application WO-A-02/47031.
  • amides of carboxylic acids in particular tri-carboxylic acids such as cyclohexanetricarboxamides (see European patent application EP-A-1068854), diamides having hydrocarbon chains each containing from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, for example from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, said chains being unsubstituted or substituted with at least one substituent chosen from the ester, urea and fluoro groups (see application EP-A-1086945) and in particular the resulting diamides of the reaction of diaminocyclohexane, in particular diaminocyclohexane in trans form, and of an acid chloride such as for example N, N'-bis (dodecanoyl) -1,2-diaminocyclohexane, the amides of N-acylamino acids such as diamides resulting from the action of an N-acylamino acid with amines having from 1 to 22 carbon atoms
  • compositions can contain from 1 to 60% of structuring agent included in the fatty phase.
  • the composition contains from 5 to 55% by weight, better from 10 to 40% of structuring agent, which achieves overall solids contents in the composition greater than 45%, preferably greater than 46%, better greater than 47%, even better greater than 48%, or even greater than 50%.
  • the polymer is then obtained at 100% by weight of active ingredient.
  • the composition having the above characteristics can be obtained by incorporating at least one agent in an aqueous phase structuring aqueous phase to obtain the rheological profile defined above.
  • the aqueous phase structuring agent can be chosen from nonionic surfactants and anionics leading to phase formation lamellar, the amphiphilic polymers leading to the formation of lamellar phases, polymers associative.
  • 'lamellar phases means compounds amphiphiles with the property of forming, in presence of water, mesomorphic phases whose state organization is intermediate between the state crystalline and liquid state.
  • amphiphiles which give rise to mesomorphic phases, some can swell in aqueous solution to form either spherules dispersed in solution, i.e. leaflets: these organizations are made up of bi-molecular layers
  • the lamellar phases arise conventionally in the form of sheets, again called bilayers, or in a rolled form, again called vesicles, spherules or "onion" phases.
  • All lamellar phases are characterized in polarized light microscopy, by a birefringent structure either in the form of streaks oily or Maltese cross, also called cross of polarization.
  • amphiphilic molecules can be of ionic, preferably anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic nature and their combination.
  • amphiphilic lipids used for obtaining the vesicles are lipids having the general formula: X - Y formula in which X represents a hydrophilic group and Y represents a lipophilic group.
  • the amphiphilic lipids can be ionic lipids, for which the group X is ionic, or nonionic lipids for which the group X is nonionic.
  • the ionic amphiphilic lipids are, of preferably chosen from the group formed by natural phospholipids, chemically modified or enzymatic or synthetic, the anionic compounds and gangliosides.
  • the saturated linear aliphatic radical R is preferably a lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, arachidyl, benéhyl, lignoceryl radical or a mixture of these radicals; and the unsaturated aliphatic radical R 3 is advantageously a palmitoleyl, oleyl, linoleyl, arachidonyl radical.
  • the compounds defined in point (3) above are advantageously C 12 to C 22 alcohols carrying 2 to 20 ethylene oxide (EO) units.
  • the sterol is, advantageously cholesterol; it can be substituted by 2 to 20 units of EO Likewise phytosterol can be substituted by 2 to 20 moles of EO
  • the polyol ethers defined in point (4) above are preferably C 2 to C 7 polyol alkyl ethers.
  • Non-ionic usable as lipids non-ionic amphiphiles are advantageously the cerebrosides.
  • the invention it is possible to incorporate into the lipid phase of the additives, which allow decrease the permeability of the vesicles, and / or charged lipids intended to improve the stability of vesicles, preventing their flocculation and to allow the rate increase encapsulation.
  • Vesicle dispersions can contain one or more active compound (s) having a cosmetic and / or dermopharmaceutical activity, which, according to their solubility characteristics, can have different locations.
  • the assets are fat-soluble, they are introduced into the lipid phase constituting the vesicle sheet (s).
  • the active ingredients are water-soluble, they are introduced into the encapsulated aqueous phase of the vesicles, if the active are amphiphilic, they are distributed between the phase lipid and the aqueous phase encapsulated with a partition coefficient which varies according to the nature of the amphiphilic active and the respective compositions of the lipid phase and the encapsulated aqueous phase.
  • Water-soluble active ingredients are, for example, glycerin, sorbitol, erythrulose and antibiotics; liposoluble active ingredients are example retinoic acid, lipoprotides and steroids.
  • hydrocarbon-based surfactants of products having a statistical formula, in their hydrophilic part, for example a polyglycerol ester of formula where n is a statistical value and which can contain various proportions of esters for which n-1, n-2, n-3, n-4, etc ...; this is also the case for esters comprising several alkyl chains in their lipophilic part, such as cocoates, which contain C 5 to C 17 alkyl chains or isostearates, where the C 17 alkyl chains are a complex mixture of forms isomers, this is also the case for products consisting of mixtures of mono-, di-, tri- or polyesters of the same polyol. It should be noted that a product, which contains only one ester capable of forming vesicles and impurities of another type, could not be used according to the invention.
  • the alkyl radical is a methyl radical
  • x is a number integer ranging from 2 to 6
  • y is an integer ranging from 4 to 30.
  • DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2-5695 are compounds of formula (III) where respectively A is 22, B is 2 and y is 12; A is 103, B is 10 and y is 12; A is 27, B is 3 and there is 12.
  • the agents structuring is a lamellar phase
  • surfactant anionic such as triethalonamine stearate
  • the associative polymers can be chosen from associative polyurethanes, associative acrylic polymers, associative polysaccharides.
  • Associative polyurethanes are nonionic block copolymers comprising in the chain, both hydrophilic sequences of a nature most often polyoxyethylenated and hydrophobic blocks which can be aliphatic sequences alone and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic sequences.
  • these polymers comprise at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon chains, having from C 6 to C 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, the hydrocarbon chains can be pendant chains or chains at the end of hydrophilic block. In particular, it is possible that one or more hanging chains are provided.
  • the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.
  • the polymers can be sequenced under triblock or multiblock form.
  • the sequences hydrophobic can therefore be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock block copolymer hydrophilic power plant) or distributed at the same time ends and in the chain (multi-block copolymer for example).
  • the polymers can also be in grafts or star.
  • the polymers are triblock copolymers whose hydrophilic sequence is a polyoxyethylenated chain comprising from 50 to 1,000 oxyethylenated groups.
  • hydrophilic sequence is a polyoxyethylenated chain comprising from 50 to 1,000 oxyethylenated groups.
  • polyurethanes associative include a urethane link between hydrophilic sequences, hence the origin of the name.
  • polymers whose hydrophilic sequences are linked by other bonds that urethane binding to sequences lipophilic are also among the associative polyurethanes, polymers whose hydrophilic sequences are linked by other bonds that urethane binding to sequences lipophilic.
  • associative polymers which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of polymer C 16 -OE 120 -C 16 sold by the company HULS (under the name Soud FX1100, molecule with urethane function and average molecular weight by weight of 1300), OE being an oxyethylenated motif.
  • Associative polymer it is also possible to use Rheolate 205 with urea function sold by the company RHEOX or Rheolate 208 or 204. These associative polyurethanes are sold in pure form.
  • the product DW 1206B from ROHM & HAAS with a C 20 alkyl chain and a urethane bond, sold at 20% as dry matter in water, can also be used.
  • the polymers which can be used in the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci 271, 380.389 (1993).
  • the aqueous phase structuring agent can be present in the composition in a content ranging 0.1 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, (in particular from 0.1 to 8%) preferably ranging from 0.5 to 12% by weight, (in particular from 0.5% to 5%, or from 0.8% to 3% by weight) and better ranging from 1% to 8% in weight.
  • composition according to the invention can include a mixture of a phase structuring agent fatty and an aqueous phase structuring agent such as defined in the embodiments described previously.
  • composition according to the invention forms a physiologically acceptable medium.
  • physiologically acceptable medium means a medium that is not toxic compatible with keratin fibers of beings humans, especially eyelashes or eyebrows, like a cosmetic medium, the cosmetic medium possibly being a hydrophilic or lipophilic cosmetic medium.
  • the composition can comprise water or a mixture of water and organic solvent (s) hydrophilic (s), that is to say one or organic solvent (s) miscible with l water, such as alcohols and in particular monoalcohols having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol, polyols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as glycerin, diglycerin, propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, sorbitol, pentylene glycol, ketones of C 3 -C 4, the C 2 -C 4 aldehydes.
  • Water or mixture of water and solvent (s) hydrophilic organic (s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 90% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.1% to 60% by weight.
  • the fatty phase as defined above can form a continuous phase of composition.
  • the composition according to the invention can be anhydrous.
  • composition according to the invention can be a makeup composition, a makeup base (called “base coat”), a composition called “top coat” to be applied to make-up, or a composition of cosmetic treatment, care of keratin fibers.
  • base coat a makeup base
  • top coat a composition of cosmetic treatment, care of keratin fibers.
  • the composition according to the invention applies especially the eyelashes.
  • the composition of the invention may be a composition of eyelash coatings, in particular a composition of eyelash makeup, also called mascara, a composition to be applied to an eyelash makeup, also called a top coat, or a composition of treatment of eyelashes, in particular human eyelashes or false eyelashes. More specifically, the composition is a mascara.
  • the invention also relates to a method fiber treatment or makeup cosmetic keratin, including application to said keratin materials of the composition, such as is described above.
  • the invention also relates to a method of eyelash coating including application to eyelashes of the composition described above.
  • the invention also relates to the use of the composition, as described more top, for making up keratin fibers as well than using this composition to obtain easy and homogeneous application, make-up with an excellent volumizing effect and for get a quick make-up of keratin fibers.
  • composition according to the invention can additionally include an additional, different wax sticky wax described above.
  • Additional wax can be chosen among, for example, among beeswax, paraffin, hydrogenated castor oil, waxes silicone.
  • Waxes (sticky wax and / or waxes present) in the composition can be dispersed as particles in a medium aqueous.
  • the wax may be present under form of wax-in-water emulsion.
  • the wax (es) can also be in the form of a aqueous microdispersion of wax particles.
  • aqueous microdispersion of wax a aqueous dispersion of wax particles, in which the size of said wax particles is smaller or equal to approximately 1 ⁇ m.
  • Wax microdispersions are stable dispersions of colloidal wax particles, and are notably described in "Microemulsions Theory and Practice ”, L.M. Prince Ed., Academic Press (1977), pages 21-32.
  • these microdispersions of wax can be obtained by melting the wax into presence of a surfactant, and possibly a part of the water, then gradual addition of hot water with agitation.
  • a surfactant and possibly a part of the water
  • we observe the intermediate formation a water-in-oil type emulsion, followed by a phase inversion with final obtaining of a oil-in-water type microemulsion.
  • a stable microdispersion is obtained solid colloidal particles of wax.
  • Wax microdispersions can also be obtained by stirring the mixture of wax, surfactant and water using means agitation such as ultrasound, homogenizer high pressure, turbines.
  • the particles of the microdispersion of wax preferably have medium dimensions less than 1 ⁇ m (in particular ranging from 0.02 ⁇ m to 0.99 ⁇ m), preferably less than 0.5 ⁇ m (especially ranging from 0.06 ⁇ m to 0.05 ⁇ m).
  • These particles are made up essentially a wax or a mixture of waxes. However, they may include in proportion minority of oily and / or pasty fatty additives, a surfactant and / or a usual fat-soluble additive / active.
  • Additional wax may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, relative to the weight total of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, and better still from 1% to 20% by weight.
  • the composition according to the invention can include at least one pasty fatty compound to ambient temperature.
  • pasty fatty substance in the sense of the invention is meant fatty substances having a point from 20 to 55 ° C, preferably 25 to 45 ° C, and / or a viscosity at 40 ° C ranging from 0.1 to 40 Pa.s (1 to 400 poises), preferably 0.5 to 25 Pa.s, measured with Contraves TV or Rhéomat 80, equipped with a mobile rotating at 60 Hz.
  • Those skilled in the art can choose the mobile for measuring viscosity, among the mobile MS-r3 and MS-r4, based on its general knowledge, so that you can realize measuring the pasty compound tested.
  • these fatty substances are hydrocarbon compounds, possibly of the type polymeric; they can also be chosen from silicone compounds; they can also present themselves in the form of a mixture of hydrocarbon compounds and / or silicone.
  • the compounds are preferably used hydrocarbon pastes (containing mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms and possibly ester groups), in the majority proportion.
  • lanolins and lanolin derivatives such as acetylated lanolins or lanolins oxypropylenes or isopropyl lanolate, having a viscosity from 18 to 21 Pa.s, preferably 19 to 20.5 Pa.s, and / or a melting point of 30 to 55 ° C and their mixtures.
  • esters fatty acids or alcohols especially those with 20 to 65 carbon atoms (melting point of the order of 20 at 35 ° C and / or viscosity at 40 ° C ranging from 0.1 to 40 Pa.s) such as tri-isostearyl or cetyl citrate; the arachidyl propionate; vinyl polylaurate; cholesterol esters like triglycerides of vegetable origin such as vegetable oils hydrogenated, viscous polyesters like acid poly (12-hydroxystearic) and mixtures thereof.
  • esters fatty acids or alcohols especially those with 20 to 65 carbon atoms (melting point of the order of 20 at 35 ° C and / or viscosity at 40 ° C ranging from 0.1 to 40 Pa.s) such as tri-isostearyl or cetyl citrate; the arachidyl propionate; vinyl polylaurate; cholesterol esters like triglycerides of vegetable origin such as vegetable oils hydrogenated, viscous polyesters like acid poly (12-hydroxystearic) and
  • the pasty fatty substance may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.5 to 45% by weight, and better ranging from 2% to 30% by weight, in the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention can contain emulsifying surfactants present in particular in a proportion ranging from 2 to 30% by weight compared to the total weight of the composition, and better from 5% to 15%.
  • These surfactants can be chosen from anionic surfactants or not Ionic.
  • Surfactants are preferably used allowing oil-in-water emulsion to be obtained or wax-in-water.
  • composition according to the invention can comprise at least one film-forming polymer.
  • the film-forming polymer can be chosen from the group formed by vinyl polymers, polyurethanes, polyesters, polyamides, polyureas, and cellulosic polymers.
  • Film-forming polymer may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content of dry matter ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight per relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 40% by weight, and better still from 1% to 30% by weight.
  • film-forming polymer a polymer capable of forming to it alone or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming, a continuous and adherent film on a support, especially on keratin materials such as the eyelashes.
  • the film-forming polymer (s) which can be present in the composition of the invention are different from the “semi-crystalline polymer" as it has been defined above.
  • the polymer (s) film-forming do not include patterns crystallize.
  • said crystallizable patterns would represent less 30% by weight of the total weight of the polymer.
  • film-forming polymers that can be used in the composition of the present invention, it is possible cite synthetic polymers, of the radical type or polycondensate type, the original polymers natural, and their mixtures.
  • radical film-forming polymer means a polymer obtained by polymerization of especially ethylenically unsaturated monomers, each monomer being capable of homopolymerizing (at the opposite of polycondensates).
  • Film-forming polymers of the type radical can be in particular polymers, or vinyl copolymers, especially polymers acrylic.
  • Vinyl film-forming polymers can result from the polymerization of monomers to ethylenic unsaturation having at least one group acid and / or esters of these acid monomers and / or amides of these acid monomers.
  • ⁇ , ⁇ unsaturated carboxylic acids can be used - ethylenic such as acrylic acid, acid methacrylic, crotonic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid.
  • the acid is preferably used (meth) acrylic and crotonic acid, and more preferably (meth) acrylic acid.
  • esters of acidic monomers are advantageously chosen from esters of (meth) acrylic acid (also called (meth) acrylates), in particular alkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular C 1 -C 30 alkyl , preferably C 1 -C 20 , aryl (meth) acrylates, in particular C 6 -C 10 aryl, hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular C 2 -C hydroxyalkyl 6 .
  • alkyl (meth) acrylates it is possible to quote methyl methacrylate, methacrylate ethyl, butyl methacrylate, methacrylate isobutyl, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate, methacrylate cyclohexyl.
  • hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates there may be mentioned hydroxyethyl acrylate, acrylate 2-hydroxypropyl, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.
  • aryl (meth) acrylates one can cite benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate.
  • Esters of (meth) acrylic acid particularly preferred are (meth) acrylates alkyl.
  • the grouping alkyl esters can be either fluorinated or perfluorinated, i.e. part or all hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted by fluorine atoms.
  • amides of the acid monomers mention may, for example, be made of (meth) acrylamides, and in particular of N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, in particular of C 2 -C 12 alkyl.
  • N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides mention may be made of N-ethyl acrylamide, Nt-butyl acrylamide, Nt-octyl acrylamide and N-undecylacrylamide.
  • Vinyl film-forming polymers can also result from homopolymerization or copolymerization of monomers chosen from esters vinyl and styrene monomers.
  • these monomers can be polymerized with acidic monomers and / or their esters and / or their amides, such as those mentioned above.
  • vinyl esters one can cite vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and t-butyl vinyl benzoate.
  • styrene monomers there may be mentioned styrene and alpha-methyl styrene.
  • film-forming polycondensates may include polyurethanes, polyesters, polyester amides, polyamides, and resins epoxyesters, polyureas.
  • Polyurethanes can be chosen among anionic, cationic, nonionic polyurethanes or amphoteric, polyurethanes-acrylics, poly-urethanes-polyvinylpirrolidones, polyester-polyurethanes, polyether-polyurethanes, polyureas, polyureas-polyurethanes, and their mixtures.
  • Polyesters can be obtained from known manner, by polycondensation of acids dicarboxylics with polyols, especially diols.
  • the dicarboxylic acid can be aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic.
  • These acid monomers dicarboxylic can be used alone or in combination of at least two
  • the diol can be chosen from the diols aliphatic, alicyclic, aromatic. We use preferably a diol chosen from: ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, cyclohexane dimethanol, 4-butanediol. Like other polyols, the glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, trimethylol propane.
  • polyester amides can be obtained analogously to polyesters, for polycondensation of diacids with diamines or amino alcohols.
  • diamine one can use ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, meta- or para-phenylenediamine.
  • amino alcohol we can use monoethanolamine.
  • the polyester may also comprise at least one monomer carrying at least one group -SO 3 M, with M representing a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion NH 4 + or a metal ion, such as for example an ion Na + , Li + , K +, Mg 2+ , Ca 2+ , Cu 2+ , Fe 2+ , Fe 3+ .
  • M representing a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion NH 4 + or a metal ion, such as for example an ion Na + , Li + , K +, Mg 2+ , Ca 2+ , Cu 2+ , Fe 2+ , Fe 3+ .
  • a bifunctional aromatic monomer comprising such a group -SO 3 M.
  • the aromatic nucleus of the bifunctional aromatic monomer further bearing an -SO 3 M group as described above can be chosen, for example, from benzene, naphthalene, anthracene, diphenyl, oxydiphenyl, sulfonyldiphenyl, methylenediphenyl nuclei.
  • a bifunctional aromatic monomer further bearing an -SO 3 M group sulfoisophthalic acid, sulfoterephthalic acid, sulfophthalic acid, 4-sulfonaphthalene-2,7-dicarboxylic acid.
  • copolymers based isophthalate / sulfoisophthalate and more particularly copolymers obtained by condensation of di-ethylene glycol, cyclohexane dimethanol, isophthalic acid, sulfoisophthalic acid.
  • Polymers of natural origin can be chosen from the shellac resin, sandaraque gum, dammars, elemis, copals, cellulosic polymers, and their mixtures.
  • the film-forming polymer can be a polymer dissolved in an oily phase liquid comprising organic oils or solvents such as those described above (it is said that the film-forming polymer is a fat-soluble polymer).
  • oily phase liquid comprising organic oils or solvents such as those described above
  • liquid fatty phase means, in the sense of the invention, a fatty phase liquid at temperature ambient (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg, i.e. 105 Pa), composed of one or more fatty substances liquids at room temperature, also called oils, generally compatible with each other.
  • the liquid fatty phase includes a volatile oil, possibly mixed with a non-volatile oil, the oils can be chosen from the oils mentioned above.
  • a liposoluble polymer As an example of a liposoluble polymer, mention may be made of vinyl ester copolymers (the vinyl group being directly connected to the atom of oxygen from the ester group and the vinyl ester having a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical of 1 with 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl of the group ester) and at least one other monomer which may be a vinyl ester (different from the vinyl ester already present), an ⁇ -olefin (having 8 to 28 atoms of carbon), an alkylvinylether (including the alkyl group has 2 to 18 carbon atoms), or an ester allyl or methallyl (having a radical saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon, from 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl of the ester group).
  • vinyl ester copolymers the vinyl group being directly connected to the atom of oxygen from the ester group and the vinyl ester having a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical of 1 with 19
  • copolymers can be crosslinked to using cross-linkers which are intended to be either vinyl type or allylic type or methallyl, such as tetraallyloxyethane, divinylbenzene, divinyl octanedioate, divinyl dodecanedioate, and octadecanedioate divinyl.
  • cross-linkers which are intended to be either vinyl type or allylic type or methallyl, such as tetraallyloxyethane, divinylbenzene, divinyl octanedioate, divinyl dodecanedioate, and octadecanedioate divinyl.
  • copolymers examples include vinyl acetate / stearate allyl, vinyl acetate / vinyl laurate, vinyl acetate / vinyl stearate, acetate vinyl / octadecene, acetate vinyl / octadecylvinyl ether propionate vinyl / allyl laurate, vinyl propionate / laurate vinyl, vinyl stearate / octadecene-1, acetate vinyl / dodecene-1, vinyl stearate / ethylvinyl ether, vinyl propionate / cetyl vinyl ether, stearate vinyl / allyl acetate, 2,2-dimethyl, 2 octanoate vinyl / vinyl laurate, 2,2-dimethyl, 2 pentanoate allyl / vinyl laurate, dimethyl propionate vinyl / vinyl stearate, dimethyl propionate vinyl / vinyl stearate, dimethyl prop
  • liposoluble film-forming polymers may also mention liposoluble copolymers, and in particular those resulting from copolymerization vinyl esters having 9 to 22 carbon atoms or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, the alkyl radicals having from 10 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • Such liposoluble copolymers can be chosen from the polystearate copolymers of vinyl, of vinyl polystearate crosslinked using divinylbenzene, diallylether or phthalate diallyl, poly (meth) acrylate copolymers stearyl, vinyl polylaurate, poly (meth) acrylate, these poly (meth) acrylates which can be crosslinked using dimethacrylate ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol.
  • Copolymers and homopolymers liposoluble substances defined above are known and in particular described in application FR-A-2232303; they can have a weight average molecular weight ranging from 2,000 to 500,000 and preferably from 4,000 to 200,000.
  • liposoluble film-forming polymers which can be used in the invention, mention may also be made of polyalkylenes and in particular copolymers of C 2 -C 20 alkenes, such as polybutene, alkylcelluloses with a linear or branched alkyl radical, saturated or not C 1 to C 8 such as ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, the vinylpyrolidone (VP) copolymers and in particular the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of C 2 to C 40 alkene and better still of C 3 to C 20 .
  • a VP copolymer which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of the copolymer of VP / vinyl acetate, VP / ethyl methacrylate, butylated polyvinylpyrolidone (PVP), VP / ethyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid, VP / eicosene, VP / hexadecene, VP / triacontene, VP / styrene, VP / acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate.
  • PVP polyvinylpyrolidone
  • the film-forming polymer may also be present in the composition under the form of particles dispersed in a phase aqueous or in a known non-aqueous solvent phase generally under the name of latex or pseudolatex.
  • the techniques for preparing these dispersions are good known to those skilled in the art.
  • composition according to the invention can include a plasticizing agent promoting training of a film with the film-forming polymer.
  • a plasticizing agent promoting training of a film with the film-forming polymer.
  • Such an agent plasticizer can be chosen from all compounds known to those skilled in the art as being capable of perform the desired function.
  • composition according to the invention can also understand a coloring matter like the powdery coloring matter, dyes fat-soluble, water-soluble dyes.
  • This coloring matter may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, relative to the weight total of the composition.
  • Powdery coloring matter can be chosen from pigments and nacres.
  • Pigments can be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, coated or not.
  • We may include, among the mineral pigments, titanium, possibly surface-treated, the oxides of zirconium, zinc or cerium, as well as the oxides of iron or chromium, manganese violet, blue overseas, chromium hydrate and ferric blue.
  • organic pigments mention may be made of black carbon, pigments of type D & C, and lacquers base of cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum.
  • the nacres can be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, pearlescent pigments colored such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with a pigment organic of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
  • the liposoluble dyes are for example Sudan red, D&C Red 17, D&C Green 6, ⁇ - carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, D&C Yellow 11, D&C Violet 2, D&C orange 5, quinoline yellow, annatto.
  • the water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice, methylene blue, disodium salt of culvert, disodium salt of alizarin green, quinoline yellow, trisodium salt of amaranth, disodium salt of tartrazine, monosodium salt of rhodamine, disodium salt of fuchsin, xanthophyll.
  • composition of the invention can include, in addition, any additive commonly used in cosmetics such as antioxidants, fillers, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, thickeners, surfactants, active ingredients cosmetic or dermatological agents plasticizers, coalescing agents, vitamins, and their mixtures.
  • additives such as antioxidants, fillers, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, thickeners, surfactants, active ingredients cosmetic or dermatological agents plasticizers, coalescing agents, vitamins, and their mixtures.
  • composition according to the invention can be made by known methods, usually used in the cosmetic field.
  • This protocol is valid for both determine the tack of a wax and the tack of the association of a particular compound with at least an oil, said particular compound possibly being a semi-crystalline polymer, a phase rheological agent fat.
  • the tights of the structuring agent of the fatty phase is measured at 20 ° C. using the texturometer sold under the name TA-XT2i by the RHEO company, equipped with a mobile in acrylic polymer cone-shaped at an angle of 45 °, measuring evolution of the force (compression force or force stretch) (F) as a function of time, during the following operation:
  • the mobile is moved at the speed of 0.5 mm / s then enters the structuring agent up to a penetration depth of 2 mm.
  • the mobile When the mobile penetrated into the wax to the depth of 2 mm, the mobile is held stationary for 1 second (corresponding to the relaxation time) then is removed at the speed of 0.5 mm / s.
  • the force compressive force
  • the force decreases strongly until it becomes zero then, upon withdrawal of the mobile, the force (stretching force) becomes negative and then increase again towards the value 0.
  • the tights correspond to the integral of the curve force as a function of time for the part of the curve corresponding to negative force values (stretching force). The value of the tights is expressed in N.s.
  • the structuring agent is melted a temperature equal to the agent's melting point structuring + 10 ° C.
  • the molten structuring agent is poured into a container 25 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep.
  • the structuring agent is recrystallized at room temperature (25 ° C) for 24 hours so that the surface of the structuring agent is flat and smooth, then the structuring agent is kept for at least 1 hour at 20 ° C before performing the measure of tights.
  • This protocol is valid for both determine the hardness of a wax and the hardness of the association of a particular compound with at least an oil, said particular compound possibly being a semi-crystalline polymer, a phase rheological agent fat.
  • the hardness of the structuring agent of the fatty phase is measured at 20 ° C. using the texturometer sold under the name TA-XT2i by the RHEO company, equipped with a stainless steel mobile in the shape of cylinder with a diameter of 2mm, by measuring the evolution force (compression force or stretching force) (F) as a function of time, during the operation next :
  • the mobile is moved at the speed of 0.1 mm / s then enters the structuring agent up to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm.
  • the mobile is kept fixed for 1 second (corresponding to the time of relaxation) then is removed at the speed of 0.1 mm / s.
  • the force force of compression
  • the hardness corresponds to the maximum compression force measured between the surface of the mobile and the wax at the time of bringing them into contact. The value of this force is expressed in MPa.
  • the structuring agent is melted a temperature equal to the agent's melting point structuring + 20 ° C.
  • the molten structuring agent is poured in a container 30 mm in diameter and 20 mm in depth.
  • the structuring agent is recrystallized at room temperature (25 ° C) for 24 hours such so that the surface of the structuring agent is flat and smooth, then the structuring agent is kept for at least 1 hour at 20 ° C before measuring the hardness.
  • the measurements were made on a imposed constraint rheometer, ThermoRhéo RS 75, equipped with a thermostatically controlled bath.
  • the geometry of the shear used has plane / plane symmetry, 2 cm in diameter, with the surface of the planes either ribbed to limit sliding phenomena at the wall of plans.
  • the gap (or sample thickness) is set at 300 ⁇ m.
  • the measurements are carried out at 25 ° C ⁇ 0.5 ° C.
  • FIG. 1 represents the flow profile of a mascara type composition in accordance with the invention, said profile representing the viscosity ( ⁇ in Pa.s) as a function of the shear gradient ⁇ ⁇ (in s -1 ).
  • FIG. 2 represents the flow profile of an Illusionist® commercial mascara by Estée Lauder, said profile representing the viscosity ( ⁇ in Pa.s) as a function of the shear gradient ⁇ ⁇ (in s -1 ).
  • FIG. 3 represents the flow profile of a composition according to the invention, said profile representing the viscosity ( ⁇ in Pa.s) as a function of the shear gradient ⁇ (in s -1 ).
  • FIG. 4 represents the flow profile of a Long Optic @ commercial mascara from Dior, said profile representing the viscosity ( ⁇ in Pa.s) as a function of the shear gradient ⁇ ⁇ (in s -1 ).
  • FIG. 5 represents the flow profile of a commercial effect mascara False Eyelashes @ by Yves Saint-Laurent, said profile representing the viscosity ( ⁇ in Pa.s) as a function of the shear gradient ⁇ ⁇ (in s -1 ).
  • composition Stearic acid 5.82% Candellila wax 6% Hydroxystearoyl fatty alcohol stearate C20-C40 (Kester wax K82P) 25% Amino-2 methyl-2 propane di-ol-1,3 0.5% Black iron oxide 5.45% Silica 3% hydroxyethyl 0.91% Gum arabic 3.45% Tri-ethanolamine 2.4% Anti-foam qs Conservative qs Water qs 100
  • ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ varies from 4.5.10 -4 to 4.3 in the range of shears between 1.10 -4 s -1 and 1.10 3 s -1
  • the mascara in this example is capable of withstanding high shears of the order of 1000s -1 .
  • Figure 1 shows the profile flow of said composition, representing the viscosity of the composition as a function of the gradient of shear.
  • composition subject to the measurement of the above rheological profile is a commercial composition Illusionist® by Estée Lauder.
  • Figure 2 confirms for this type of mascara a discontinuous and non-homogeneous flow.
  • This mascara gives a natural makeup (not very thick) with the eyelashes and forms a granular deposit.
  • Wax in water emulsion mascara with non-surfactant ionic (corresponding to a lamellar phase) exclusively and presenting a homogeneous flow and continued
  • ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ varies from 1.5.10 -3 to 3.9 in the range of shears between 1.10 -2 s-1 and 1.10 3 s-1.
  • This mascara therefore has a continuous and homogeneous flow.
  • This mascara of Example 1 is capable of withstand high shears of the order of 1000s-1, which is confirmed by Figure 3.
  • This mascara gives good properties volumizing (thick eyelash makeup) and forms a smooth and homogeneous deposit.
  • ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ varies from 1.2.10 -3 to 30.8 in the range of shears between 1.10 -2 s -1 and 1.10 3 s -1 .
  • This mascara gives natural makeup to the eyelashes (thin makeup) and forms a non- smooth.
  • ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ varies from 1.8.10 -3 s -1 to 7.5 in the range of shears between 1.10 -2 s -1 and 1.10 3 s -1 .
  • EFC mascara does not fit into the frame of our invention, because the flow is inhomogeneous beyond from 10 s-1, which is confirmed by Figure 5.
  • This mascara gives a loading makeup eyelashes but forms an inhomogeneous deposit.

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EP03102701A 2002-09-06 2003-09-04 Make-up Zusammensetzung für Keratinfasern Withdrawn EP1396259A3 (de)

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FR0211092 2002-09-06
FR0211092A FR2844193A1 (fr) 2002-09-06 2002-09-06 Composition de maquillage des fibres keratiniques a extrait sec eleve combine a un profil rheologique particulier

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EP1674076A2 (de) 2004-12-21 2006-06-28 L'oreal Wasserfeste und gut abschminkbare kosmetische Schminkzusammensetzung
EP1745771A1 (de) 2005-07-22 2007-01-24 L'oreal Verfahren zur Beschichtung vin Wimpern
EP1894602A1 (de) * 2006-08-16 2008-03-05 Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Mascara mit einem Gehalt an synthetischen Wachs, Bienenwachs und synthetischen Esterwachs
EP1992324A1 (de) 2007-05-10 2008-11-19 L'Oreal Zusammensetzung in Schaumform, die einen polymeren Strukturanten umfasst
EP1992325A1 (de) 2007-05-10 2008-11-19 L'Oreal Kosmetische Zusammensetzung in Schaumform ohne Wachs
EP2138151A2 (de) 2008-06-27 2009-12-30 L'oreal Kosmetische Zusammensetzung zum Schminken und/oder zur Lippenpflege
EP2189081A2 (de) 2008-11-24 2010-05-26 L'oreal Feste kosmetische Zusammensetzung zum Auftragen auf Keratinfasern
EP2189080A2 (de) 2008-11-24 2010-05-26 L'oreal Feste kosmetische Zusammensetzung zum Auftragen auf keratinischen Fasern
WO2010106498A1 (en) 2009-03-17 2010-09-23 L'oreal A packaging and applicator device for at least one solid cosmetic composition
US7820151B2 (en) * 2004-02-13 2010-10-26 L'oreal S.A. Composition for coating keratin fibers, comprising at least one tacky wax and fibers
US7887788B2 (en) 2002-09-06 2011-02-15 L'oreal S.A. Cosmetic composition comprising a tacky wax
US7923002B2 (en) 2002-09-06 2011-04-12 L'oreal S.A. Composition for coating keratin fibres comprising a tacky wax
US8211415B2 (en) 2004-10-13 2012-07-03 L'oreal Easily removable waterproof cosmetic care and/or makeup composition comprising at least one latex or pseudolatex
US8753617B2 (en) 2005-11-09 2014-06-17 L'oréal Composition in the form of a foam for coating the eyelashes
WO2014147513A1 (en) 2013-03-22 2014-09-25 L'oreal Mascara compositions comprising a semicrystalline polymer, a silicone elastomer, and a hydrophilic gelling agent
US8871185B2 (en) 2005-07-13 2014-10-28 L'oreal Lip makeup composition with good staying power comprising a low molecular weight resin
WO2015052399A1 (fr) * 2013-10-11 2015-04-16 L'oreal Composition cosmétique de revêtement des fibres kératiniques
WO2015052397A1 (fr) * 2013-10-11 2015-04-16 L'oreal Composition cosmétique de revêtement des fibres kératiniques
WO2015052398A1 (fr) * 2013-10-11 2015-04-16 L'oreal Composition cosmétique de revêtement des fibres kératiniques
WO2016055312A1 (en) * 2014-10-10 2016-04-14 L'oreal Cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres
WO2016055311A1 (en) * 2014-10-10 2016-04-14 L'oreal Cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres
WO2016055313A1 (en) * 2014-10-10 2016-04-14 L'oreal Cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres
US9901528B2 (en) 2016-04-25 2018-02-27 L'oréal Cosmetic composition containing combination of dispersion of acrylic polymer particles, thermoplastic elastomer and semi-crystalline polymers
EP3292856A1 (de) 2008-06-02 2018-03-14 L'oreal Zusammensetzungen auf basis von polyester in einer ölphase und verwendungen davon
US10195132B2 (en) 2016-04-25 2019-02-05 L'oréal Cosmetic composition containing combination of dispersion of acrylic and semi-crystalline polymers

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FR2844185B1 (fr) * 2002-09-06 2006-08-18 Oreal Composition de maquillage des fibres keratiniques presentant un extrait sec en solides eleve combine a un profil adhesif particulier
KR100967387B1 (ko) * 2007-02-09 2010-07-05 (주) 케이 이엔씨 분리형 교량받침
FR3016885B1 (fr) * 2014-01-27 2017-08-18 Total Marketing Services Copolymeres thermoassociatifs et echangeables, compositions les comprenant

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EP0568035A2 (de) * 1992-05-01 1993-11-03 Kao Corporation Kosmetisches Mittel formuliert mit einer wässrigen Polymeremulsion
EP0663202A1 (de) * 1994-01-17 1995-07-19 L'oreal Maskara kosmetische Zusammensetzungen, die wenigstens einen Wacks und einen Pseudo-Latex von Cellulosederivaten
FR2757054A1 (fr) * 1996-12-16 1998-06-19 Oreal Pigment melanique composite sous forme de particules comprenant un noyau spherique a base de cire, procedes de preparation et utilisations en cosmetique
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US7923002B2 (en) 2002-09-06 2011-04-12 L'oreal S.A. Composition for coating keratin fibres comprising a tacky wax
US7887788B2 (en) 2002-09-06 2011-02-15 L'oreal S.A. Cosmetic composition comprising a tacky wax
US7820151B2 (en) * 2004-02-13 2010-10-26 L'oreal S.A. Composition for coating keratin fibers, comprising at least one tacky wax and fibers
US8211415B2 (en) 2004-10-13 2012-07-03 L'oreal Easily removable waterproof cosmetic care and/or makeup composition comprising at least one latex or pseudolatex
EP1674076A2 (de) 2004-12-21 2006-06-28 L'oreal Wasserfeste und gut abschminkbare kosmetische Schminkzusammensetzung
US8871185B2 (en) 2005-07-13 2014-10-28 L'oreal Lip makeup composition with good staying power comprising a low molecular weight resin
US8460645B2 (en) 2005-07-22 2013-06-11 L'oreal S.A. Process for coating eyelashes
EP1745771A1 (de) 2005-07-22 2007-01-24 L'oreal Verfahren zur Beschichtung vin Wimpern
US8753617B2 (en) 2005-11-09 2014-06-17 L'oréal Composition in the form of a foam for coating the eyelashes
EP1894602A1 (de) * 2006-08-16 2008-03-05 Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Mascara mit einem Gehalt an synthetischen Wachs, Bienenwachs und synthetischen Esterwachs
EP1992325A1 (de) 2007-05-10 2008-11-19 L'Oreal Kosmetische Zusammensetzung in Schaumform ohne Wachs
EP1992324A1 (de) 2007-05-10 2008-11-19 L'Oreal Zusammensetzung in Schaumform, die einen polymeren Strukturanten umfasst
EP3292856A1 (de) 2008-06-02 2018-03-14 L'oreal Zusammensetzungen auf basis von polyester in einer ölphase und verwendungen davon
EP2138151A2 (de) 2008-06-27 2009-12-30 L'oreal Kosmetische Zusammensetzung zum Schminken und/oder zur Lippenpflege
EP2189081A2 (de) 2008-11-24 2010-05-26 L'oreal Feste kosmetische Zusammensetzung zum Auftragen auf Keratinfasern
EP2189080A3 (de) * 2008-11-24 2012-08-22 L'Oréal Feste kosmetische Zusammensetzung zum Auftragen auf keratinischen Fasern
US8685375B2 (en) 2008-11-24 2014-04-01 L'oreal Solid cosmetic composition for application to keratin fibres
EP2189080A2 (de) 2008-11-24 2010-05-26 L'oreal Feste kosmetische Zusammensetzung zum Auftragen auf keratinischen Fasern
FR2938763A1 (fr) * 2008-11-24 2010-05-28 Oreal Composition cosmetique solide pour application sur les fibres keratiniques
WO2010106498A1 (en) 2009-03-17 2010-09-23 L'oreal A packaging and applicator device for at least one solid cosmetic composition
WO2014147513A1 (en) 2013-03-22 2014-09-25 L'oreal Mascara compositions comprising a semicrystalline polymer, a silicone elastomer, and a hydrophilic gelling agent
WO2015052399A1 (fr) * 2013-10-11 2015-04-16 L'oreal Composition cosmétique de revêtement des fibres kératiniques
FR3011740A1 (fr) * 2013-10-11 2015-04-17 Oreal Composition cosmetique de revetement des fibres keratiniques
RU2703732C2 (ru) * 2013-10-11 2019-10-22 Л'Ореаль Косметическая композиция для покрытия кератиновых волокон
FR3011741A1 (fr) * 2013-10-11 2015-04-17 Oreal Composition cosmetique de revetement des fibres keratiniques
US10219987B2 (en) 2013-10-11 2019-03-05 L'oreal Cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres
WO2015052398A1 (fr) * 2013-10-11 2015-04-16 L'oreal Composition cosmétique de revêtement des fibres kératiniques
WO2015052397A1 (fr) * 2013-10-11 2015-04-16 L'oreal Composition cosmétique de revêtement des fibres kératiniques
FR3011738A1 (fr) * 2013-10-11 2015-04-17 Oreal Composition cosmetique de revetement des fibres keratiniques
WO2016055312A1 (en) * 2014-10-10 2016-04-14 L'oreal Cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres
FR3026943A1 (fr) * 2014-10-10 2016-04-15 Oreal Composition cosmetique de revetement des fibres keratiniques
WO2016055313A1 (en) * 2014-10-10 2016-04-14 L'oreal Cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres
WO2016055311A1 (en) * 2014-10-10 2016-04-14 L'oreal Cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres
FR3026944A1 (fr) * 2014-10-10 2016-04-15 Oreal Composition cosmetique de revetement des fibres keratiniques
US10449142B2 (en) 2014-10-10 2019-10-22 L'oreal Cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres
FR3026945A1 (fr) * 2014-10-10 2016-04-15 Oreal Composition cosmetique de revetement des fibres keratiniques
US9901528B2 (en) 2016-04-25 2018-02-27 L'oréal Cosmetic composition containing combination of dispersion of acrylic polymer particles, thermoplastic elastomer and semi-crystalline polymers
US10195132B2 (en) 2016-04-25 2019-02-05 L'oréal Cosmetic composition containing combination of dispersion of acrylic and semi-crystalline polymers

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EP1396259A3 (de) 2004-06-16
FR2844193A1 (fr) 2004-03-12
CN1494888A (zh) 2004-05-12
KR20040022408A (ko) 2004-03-12
JP2004262918A (ja) 2004-09-24

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