EP1354529B1 - Verfahren zur Entwicklung einer Serie von in einer Serie von Grössen verstreuten Schuhleisten von einem Grundleisten aus - Google Patents

Verfahren zur Entwicklung einer Serie von in einer Serie von Grössen verstreuten Schuhleisten von einem Grundleisten aus Download PDF

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Publication number
EP1354529B1
EP1354529B1 EP02425247A EP02425247A EP1354529B1 EP 1354529 B1 EP1354529 B1 EP 1354529B1 EP 02425247 A EP02425247 A EP 02425247A EP 02425247 A EP02425247 A EP 02425247A EP 1354529 B1 EP1354529 B1 EP 1354529B1
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Prior art keywords
shoe
series
shape
shoe shape
points
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Expired - Lifetime
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EP02425247A
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English (en)
French (fr)
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EP1354529A1 (de
Inventor
Armido Cremaschi
Gianmarco Gemme
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Formicio Milanese Team Srl
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Formicio Milanese Team Srl
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Priority to SI200230494T priority Critical patent/SI1354529T1/sl
Priority to EP02425247A priority patent/EP1354529B1/de
Priority to AT02425247T priority patent/ATE347823T1/de
Priority to ES02425247T priority patent/ES2278894T3/es
Priority to DE60216726T priority patent/DE60216726T2/de
Publication of EP1354529A1 publication Critical patent/EP1354529A1/de
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43D—MACHINES, TOOLS, EQUIPMENT OR METHODS FOR MANUFACTURING OR REPAIRING FOOTWEAR
    • A43D3/00—Lasts
    • A43D3/02—Lasts for making or repairing shoes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43D—MACHINES, TOOLS, EQUIPMENT OR METHODS FOR MANUFACTURING OR REPAIRING FOOTWEAR
    • A43D1/00—Foot or last measuring devices; Measuring devices for shoe parts
    • A43D1/04—Last-measuring devices

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a method for developing a series of shoe shapes, also called shoe lasts, from a base shoe shape provided in a basic shoe size, according to the preamble of claim 1.
  • the invention relates to a method applied to the scale manufacturing of a series of shoes distributed in a series of different sizes, from one base shoe shape provided in a basic shoe size, and the following description is made with reference to this application field for convenience of illustration only.
  • each shoe shape is realized by mechanically removing material from a preformed blank of plastics that is obviously provided in a somewhat larger overall size than the finished shoe shape.
  • This machining is carried out, for example, on tool machines known as "Donzelli lathes", which are equipped with a special measuring head or gauge for reading the shoe design to be produced, and with a number of machining heads, usually four machining heads.
  • lathes incorporate a mechanical scaling system, and can produce a full range of right/ left shoe sizes from a single base shoe shape which has been realized by a skilled shoe designer or a stylist, for example.
  • a compound arrangement of gears and levers allows the dimensions of the base shoe shape to be scaled along three Cartesian axes.
  • all such lathes include levers that enable this scaling to be effected on the basis of predetermined mechanisms and cinematic relations, long known in the industry.
  • the shoe design or shoe shape maker is obliged to apply corrections during the machining process, in order to produce a series of shoe shapes that would adhere to the evolution of the foot in an anatomically accurate shape.
  • Such corrective actions are left to the operator's judgement and are bound by the machine limitations.
  • a prior art method for making shoe lasts is known from the US 4,884,309 which involves digitizing on the fly a large number of sample points on the outer surface of a model last to produce a model least digital file, and grading the model last digital file to produce one or more graded last digital files. Each of the graded last digital files is used to produce a graded shoe last.
  • a further prior art method of deriving patterns for shoe manufacture which corresponds to the preamble of the enclosed claim 1, is known from the EP 0019459A1.
  • the method consists in using a computer to operate on three-dimensional co-ordinate information concerning the shape of the shoe last to produce three-dimensional co-ordinate information. Such information is subjected to a grading program which produces three-dimensional co-ordinate information for different sizes.
  • the underlying technical problem of this invention is to provide a new method for developing a series of shoe shapes, distributed in a series of shoe sizes, with appropriate features to enable shoe shapes to be manufactured, exactly matching the foot morphology and anatomy, while maintaining their likeness to a base shoe shape through the various sizes provided. This method also improves simpler shoe designing and manufacturing procedures and lower production costs.
  • the solvent idea of this invention is that of using CAD software to gather the spatial coordinates of a base shoe shape and apply them to different shoe sizes of said base shoe shape using parameters that fully emulate, or at least very closely track, the morphological evolution of the human foot.
  • shoe shapes can be manufactured in very large scales on conventional tool machines, thereby substantially manufacturing exact copies of each CAD shoe shape in the whole range of shoe sizes.
  • a shoe shape is generally shown at 1 in schematic form which has been developed in accordance with the developing method of this invention.
  • the shoe shape 1 differs from shoe shapes manufactured with prior methods in that it matches with the true anatomy and morphology of the foot, and exactly corresponds to a template provided in the form of a base shoe shape 2 spanning a desired range of shoe sizes.
  • a base shoe shape of basic shoe size is a shoe shape directed to duplicate an average foot as closely as possible, so that it would fit the widest possible variety of real feet.
  • the shoe shape 1 is a tool used for manufacturing a number of shoes of the same type on shoe-making machines, e.g. of the kind of a top pad assembling machine employed to mount the top pad of uppers onto a shoe insole.
  • Such machines include an operator station where the shoe shape is centrally supported while the uppers is fitted onto the shoe shape with the insole facing up and the toe end facing the operator.
  • the method of this invention comprising a sequence of steps that lead to developing, starting from a base shoe shape 2 provided in a basic shoe size, a series of shoe shapes distributed in a series of shoe sizes, will now be described.
  • French size 21 or 22 is usually selected as a basic size for child shoe; size 37 or 38 for lady shoe; and size 41 or 42 for person shoe.
  • the need to use a multiplicity of base shoe shapes is explained, in fact, by the current development system showing departures that are the deeper the farther a shoe shape evolves from the base shoe shape.
  • a panel of shoe manufacturers were queried, each being representative of a specific typology of shoes and being known and operative on the market since a long time.
  • Each shoe manufacturer submitted some typical shoe shapes, selected among the most successful and that had been longest in demand.
  • this analytic stage was followed by a stage of measuring and recording the spatial coordinates of the base shoe shapes of basic shoe size for a large number of significant shapes. This process brought forth a few common aspects that seem to be at the root of the commercial success of such shapes.
  • the method of this invention comprises a first step of gathering data concerning the base shoe shape 2 of basic shoe size.
  • the base shoe shape may be supplied, as is usual, by a shoe designer or a stylist using conventional techniques, or be an otherwise classical shape in the industry.
  • the method of this invention comprises a step of digitizing the base shoe shape of basic size.
  • the surface 3 of the base shoe shape 2 of basic size is accurately gauged to obtain spatial coordinates x B , y B and z B of each point P B on that surface, using gauges and CAD means of data gathering.
  • a gauge 15 is run across the true surface of the base shoe shape along paths that allow the object to be accurately re-constructed.
  • the gauge 15 is essentially a computer-controlled or manually operated mechanical type of gauge; alternatively, the physical surface 3 of the base shoe shape 2 could be laser scanned.
  • the gauge 15 is controlled by the computer means to vary the reading intervals between areas of different criticality of the surface 3.
  • the gauge 15 is arranged to be controlled by a computer means 10 running CAD simulation programs.
  • the base shoe shape 2 of basic size is therefore digitized, or rather, reconstructed in digital form using a 3D data gathering technique.
  • the surface 3 is contacted in a direct manner.
  • data gathering by a mechanical gauge is usually sufficiently precise, although more hardware and time intensive.
  • optical systems could be used instead, although these are bound to introduce local distortion due to reflective and/or interference effects, which makes the surface reconstruction unavoidable.
  • the outcome of this data gathering step is a data file that can be analyzed in a 3D CAD setting.
  • the surface 3 of the base shoe shape 2 is re-constructed in digital form, and possible digitizing process errors can be corrected by the CAD program.
  • the step of re-constructing the surface 3 of the base shoe shape 2 in a 3D CAD setting allows correspondence and compatibility with shoe manufacturing operations ahead of and after the method to be maintained.
  • the same contour lines as are traditionally used by shoe designers and the same sections as manually measured by them to physically produce the shoe shape according to traditional methods can be tracked.
  • the computer 10 will display on its screen 9 a virtual or simulated surface 4 in three dimensions, whereon each point P B along its Cartesian spatial coordinates x B , y B and z B can be exactly indicated.
  • a base shoe shape of basic shoe size may be traditionally realized by a shoe designer or a stylist.
  • a given shoe shape may be derived from an existing design duly processed through CAD software.
  • the re-constructed base shoe shape can be divided in three different surfaces: top, side and bottom surfaces 5, 6 and 7 that, once merged together, produce a three-dimensional object as shown in Figure 4.
  • Each portion of the new shoe shape 1 is re-constructed by using a different technique that is specific to the CAD software employed and the type of surface of interest, and by using guidelines 13 that reproduce in digital form a manual template traditionally used by the shoe designer.
  • the guidelines 13 used for re-constructing a variety of shoe shapes may be suitably interpolated to produce a new shoe shape. This allows the manufacturer to maintain important elements on a number of shoe shapes and for several seasons.
  • a database of shoe shapes 1 can be created for later use in providing a new shoe shape with appropriate volumes, perhaps limited to a specified region thereof.
  • CAD software makes substituting one or more guidelines 13 of a structure with corresponding guidelines of another structure a comparatively easy task, thereby obtaining near-perfect morphing of both, as well as using a totally new style in some regions of a shoe shape, and maintaining its basic structure.
  • FIG. 3 The construction guidelines shown in Figure 3 are exemplary of the underlying principle that a surface 4 of the shoe shape 1 can be adequately described by the data of its construction lines, and that such data can be utilized by CAM machinery to perform certain machining operations on both the shoe shape 1 and the shoe obtained therefrom.
  • this allows the length (X axis) and width (Y axis) real developments of the plant surface, as well as the shoe shape perimeter in its significant regions, such as the fit, instep, heel-to-metatarsus-to-tarsus ratio, heel height, stride, etc., to be also obtained.
  • the increase in width and thickness of the foot follows an arcuate pattern, as against a length increase that is constant.
  • a length increase that is constant.
  • the increase patterns of the foot width and thickness are arcuate, in respect of a constant rate of length increase.
  • the change in width and thickness is, as mentioned before, different along the Y axis from that along the Z axis, and is a function of the absolute values of these quantities and their closeness to the basic shoe size used as a reference.
  • the rate of increase along the X axis that sets the shoe size of the shoe shapes is assumed to be constant, although this should not be taken to limit the Applicant's rights.
  • this invention provides a novel shoe size measurement system based on the metric system and expressed in cm and as length increments of 0.5 cm. Therefore, each shoe size is expressed by a number descriptive of length in cm (e.g., 20; 20.5; 21; and so on).
  • Length is represented by the true plant surface as developed along its longitudinal axis, less possible styling attachments to the shoe shape, as shown in Figure 4.
  • size relates to the foot that a shoe can accommodate, not to the length of the shoe itself.
  • the variations of points of the spatial co-ordinates for at least another shoe shape in the range of shoe sizes are obtained by using dynamic coefficients differentiated along each of the three Cartesian axes of the shoe shape development.
  • n will be used to indicate the positive or negative distance of a given shoe size from the basic size.
  • the numerical parameters a, b, c, d and e, which multiply the n term, may vary according to a manufacturer's own requirements, without this invalidating the method.
  • c and e may differ from each other, but could be made to coincide instead.
  • these numerical parameters may vary within ranges of values as follows: a constant variation along X (3.5 ⁇ 1.5)•10 -2 b 1st degree variation along Y (3.5 ⁇ 2.0)•10 -2 c 2nd degree variation along Y (4.0 ⁇ 7.0)•10 -4 d 1 st degree variation along Z (3.0 ⁇ 1.0)•10 -2 e 2nd degree variation along Z (4.0 ⁇ 7.0)•10 -4
  • a set basic size will therefore maintain the style and peculiarities that mark the national shoe culture and the traditions of the individual brands, while by developing under new parameters, the same styling can be maintained through the whole series, such as was not feasible with mechanical development methods.

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  • Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)
  • Agricultural Chemicals And Associated Chemicals (AREA)

Claims (12)

  1. Verfahren zur Entwicklung einer Serie von Schuhformen, die in einer Serie von Schuhgrößen verteilt sind, von einer Grundschuhform (2), die in einer Grundschuhgröße vorgesehen ist, wobei das Verfahren die folgenden Schritte aufweist:
    - Erfassen der räumlichen Koordinaten (xB, yB, zB) von Punkten an der Grundschuhform (2) einer Grundgröße unter Verwendung von Messgeräten (15), die mit einer ersten Rechnereinrichtung (10) verbunden sind, auf der CAD-Programme ablaufen, oder Erhalten der räumlichen Koordinaten (xB, yB, zB) von einer Speichereinheit;
    - Erhalten, von den räumlichen Koordinaten (xB, yB, zB) von Punkten an der Grundschuhform (2) einer Grundgröße, der räumlichen Koordinaten (xn, yn, zn) von Punkten an zumindest einer weiteren Schuhform in der Serie unter Verwendung von der Rechnereinrichtung, die mit einem vorbestimmten Berechnungsschema ausgestattet ist; wobei die erhaltenen räumlichen Koordinaten (xn, yn, zn) von Punkten an der zumindest einen weiteren Schuhform in der Serie in der Speichereinheit gespeichert werden,
    dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass
    das Berechnungsschema die räumlichen Koordinaten (xn, yn, zn) von Punkten an der zumindest einen weiteren Schuhform in der Serie mit den räumlichen Koordinaten (xB, yB, zB) von Punkten an der Grundschuhform (2) durch ein Proportionalitätsverhältnis von vorbestimmten Entwicklungskoeffizienten (cx, cy, cz), die Funktionen einer Ganzzahl (n) sind, die einen positiven oder negativen Abstand einer gegebenen Größe in dem Bereich mit Bezug auf die Grundgröße bezeichnet, gemäß dem nachstehenden Schema verknüpft: Cx = 1 + f n
    Figure imgb0019
     Cy = 1 + f n - f n • n
    Figure imgb0020
     Cz = 1 + f n - f n • n
    Figure imgb0021
     in denen |n| der absolute Wert von n ist.
  2. Verfahren gemäß Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Funktionen der Ganzzahl (n) Multiplikationsfunktionen mit vorbestimmten numerischen Parametern (a, b, c, d, e) gemäß der nachstehenden Verhältnisse sind: Cx = 1 + n • a
    Figure imgb0022
     Cy = 1 + n • b - n • n • c
    Figure imgb0023
     Cz = 1 + n • d - n • n • e .
    Figure imgb0024
  3. Verfahren gemäß Anspruch 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sich der Parameter (a) einer konstanten Längenänderung entlang der X-Achse innerhalb des Bereichs von (3, 5 bis 1,5) • 10-2 ändert.
  4. Verfahren gemäß Anspruch 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sich der Parameter (b) einer Breitenänderung ersten Grades entlang der Y-Achse innerhalb des Bereichs von (3,5 bis 2,0) • 10-2 ändert.
  5. Verfahren gemäß Anspruch 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sich der Parameter (d) einer Dickenänderung ersten Grades entlang der Z-Achse innerhalb des Bereichs von (3,0
    bis 1,0) • 10-2 ändert.
  6. Verfahren gemäß Anspruch 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sich der Parameter (c) einer Breitenänderung zweiten Grades entlang der Y-Achse innerhalb des Bereichs von (4,0 bis 7,0) • 10-4 verändert.
  7. Verfahren gemäß Anspruch 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sich der Parameter (e) einer Dickenänderung zweiten Grades entlang der Z-Achse innerhalb des Bereichs von (4,0 bis 7,0) • 10-4 ändert.
  8. Verfahren gemäß Anspruch 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Werte der Parameter (c, e) einer Änderung zweiten Grades entlang der Y- und der Z-Achse übereinstimmen können.
  9. Verfahren gemäß Anspruch 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Werte der Parameter (a, b, c, d, e) erhöht werden, um Schuhformen für Kindergrößen von denen zur Entwicklung von Frauen-/Herrenschuhformen zu entwickeln.
  10. Verfahren gemäß Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Messgeräte (15) die Fläche (3) der Grundschuhform (2) in Verbindung mit der Rechnereinrichtung (10) messen, auf der CAD-Programme ablaufen.
  11. Verfahren gemäß Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die erste Rechnereinrichtung eine Rechnereinheit, auf der CAD-/CAM-Programme ablaufen, und die Speichereinheit aufweist.
  12. Verfahren gemäß Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Speichereinheit eine Datenbank beinhaltet.
EP02425247A 2002-04-19 2002-04-19 Verfahren zur Entwicklung einer Serie von in einer Serie von Grössen verstreuten Schuhleisten von einem Grundleisten aus Expired - Lifetime EP1354529B1 (de)

Priority Applications (5)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
SI200230494T SI1354529T1 (sl) 2002-04-19 2002-04-19 Postopek razvoja serij obutvenih kopit, razverščenih po serijah dimenzij, ki izhajajo iz osnovnega kopita
EP02425247A EP1354529B1 (de) 2002-04-19 2002-04-19 Verfahren zur Entwicklung einer Serie von in einer Serie von Grössen verstreuten Schuhleisten von einem Grundleisten aus
AT02425247T ATE347823T1 (de) 2002-04-19 2002-04-19 Verfahren zur entwicklung einer serie von in einer serie von grössen verstreuten schuhleisten von einem grundleisten aus
ES02425247T ES2278894T3 (es) 2002-04-19 2002-04-19 Procedimiento para desarrollar una serie de hormas de calzado distribuida en una serie de tallas a partir de una horma base.
DE60216726T DE60216726T2 (de) 2002-04-19 2002-04-19 Verfahren zur Entwicklung einer Serie von in einer Serie von Grössen verstreuten Schuhleisten von einem Grundleisten aus

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP02425247A EP1354529B1 (de) 2002-04-19 2002-04-19 Verfahren zur Entwicklung einer Serie von in einer Serie von Grössen verstreuten Schuhleisten von einem Grundleisten aus

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EP1354529A1 EP1354529A1 (de) 2003-10-22
EP1354529B1 true EP1354529B1 (de) 2006-12-13

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EP (1) EP1354529B1 (de)
AT (1) ATE347823T1 (de)
DE (1) DE60216726T2 (de)
ES (1) ES2278894T3 (de)
SI (1) SI1354529T1 (de)

Families Citing this family (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US8005558B2 (en) 2007-09-14 2011-08-23 Nike, Inc. Three-dimensional design lasts for footwear
WO2013030421A2 (es) * 2011-09-02 2013-03-07 Redin Gorraiz Juan Maria Proceso de fabricación de calzado, y calzado obtenido en dicho proceso
IT201700047089A1 (it) 2017-05-02 2018-11-02 Else Corp S R L Metodo e sistema di modifica di forme per scarpa basati sull'applicazione di toppe addizionali
IT201700061619A1 (it) * 2017-06-06 2018-12-06 Newlast Italia Srl Metodo e sistema per la lavorazione di forme di calzature
CN113434923B (zh) * 2021-06-18 2023-06-02 四川大学 一种基于AutoCAD软件的素头皮鞋鞋楦底样参数化制图方法

Family Cites Families (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB1414630A (en) * 1972-01-08 1975-11-19 British United Shoe Machinery Grading of patterns
GB2050658B (en) * 1979-05-14 1983-03-16 Clarks Ltd Method and apparatus for the design and manufacture of footwear
US4884309A (en) * 1987-10-15 1989-12-05 Shafir Aaron Method and apparatus for making shoe lasts and/or shoe components
US5718013A (en) * 1992-04-01 1998-02-17 Gumbert; Jerry F. Shoe last and footwear manufactured therewith
DE19809298B4 (de) * 1998-03-05 2004-12-09 Schuhhaus Henkel GmbH Ortopädie-Schuhtechnik Leisten

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Publication number Publication date
EP1354529A1 (de) 2003-10-22
SI1354529T1 (sl) 2007-08-31
DE60216726D1 (de) 2007-01-25
DE60216726T2 (de) 2007-10-04
ES2278894T3 (es) 2007-08-16
ATE347823T1 (de) 2007-01-15

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