EP1331915A1 - Filmlbildende, kosmetische zusammensetzung - Google Patents

Filmlbildende, kosmetische zusammensetzung

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Publication number
EP1331915A1
EP1331915A1 EP01982578A EP01982578A EP1331915A1 EP 1331915 A1 EP1331915 A1 EP 1331915A1 EP 01982578 A EP01982578 A EP 01982578A EP 01982578 A EP01982578 A EP 01982578A EP 1331915 A1 EP1331915 A1 EP 1331915A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
wax
particles
composition according
film
composition
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP01982578A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Valérie de la Poterie
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
LOreal SA
Original Assignee
LOreal SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Publication of EP1331915A1 publication Critical patent/EP1331915A1/de
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/87Polyurethanes
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8147Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/925Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of animal origin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/10Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara

Definitions

  • the subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising a film-forming polymer and waxes intended for making up or cosmetic care of keratin materials such as keratin fibers such as the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the hair, as well as the skin and the nails, in particular of human beings.
  • the invention also relates to a process for making up and cosmetic care of keratin materials.
  • the composition can be in the form of mascara, eyeliner, lip product, blush or eyeshadow, foundation, body makeup product, concealer product. , nail product, sun protection composition, skin coloring, skin care product. More specifically, the invention relates to a mascara.
  • the term “mascara” is intended to mean a composition intended to be applied to the eyelashes: it may be a composition for making up the eyelashes, a base for making up the eyelashes, a composition to be applied to a mascara, also called a top coat, or even a cosmetic treatment composition for eyelashes.
  • the mascara is more particularly intended for the eyelashes of human beings, but also for false eyelashes.
  • the composition generally comprises a wax-in-water emulsion, the waxes being able to have a melting point ranging from 40 ° C. to 120 ° C.
  • the use of waxes having a melting point greater than or equal to 70 ° C in the mascara composition requires that the aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer be heated beforehand to a temperature greater than 80 ° C.
  • the aqueous polymer dispersion can be destabilized: the polymer particles no longer remain in a homogeneous and flocculent dispersion, rendering the composition unusable.
  • the object of the present invention is therefore to provide a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising a film-forming polymer in aqueous dispersion and waxes having a melting point greater than or equal to 70 ° C. the implementation of which is compatible with said film-forming polymer.
  • the invention also aims to obtain a cosmetic composition capable of forming a thick deposit on keratin materials and resistant to cold water.
  • the invention also aims to provide a cosmetic composition which confers good bending of keratin fibers.
  • composition can be obtained by using a microdispersion of wax with a high melting point and a dispersion of wax with a low melting point, associated with an aqueous dispersion of particles of film-forming polymer.
  • the makeup obtained exhibits good performance: the film is very resistant to cold water, that is to say to water having a temperature less than or equal at 30 ° C, when swimming for example, and / or tears and / or sweating; the film is also resistant to rubbing, for example from fingers or fabrics (masks, towels).
  • the composition also makes it possible to obtain a thick deposit on keratin materials.
  • the composition is a mascara intended to be applied to keratin fibers such as the eyelashes, the latter are well thickened. It is also said that the mascara is very filling.
  • the composition makes it possible to curl the eyelashes well.
  • the mascara according to the invention is both loading, curling and has good hold.
  • the subject of the invention is a composition
  • a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium containing an aqueous phase,: - an aqueous dispersion of particles of film-forming polymer,
  • the subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for making up or non-therapeutic care of keratin materials, in particular the eyelashes, comprising the application to keratin materials of a composition as defined above.
  • the subject of the invention is also the use of a composition as defined above for obtaining a deposit, in particular a make-up, on thick keratin materials having good hold, and / or for curling keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes .
  • the invention also relates to the use
  • composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a film deposited on keratin materials resistant to cold water and cleansable with hot water, that is to say water having a temperature greater than or equal at 35 ° C (temperature measured at atmospheric pressure), and in particular ranging from 35 ° C to 50 ° C.
  • the make-up is very easily removed with hot water and in particular with hot water which does not contain a detergent agent such as soaps.
  • composition according to the invention contains a film-forming polymer in the form of particles in aqueous dispersion, generally known under the name of latex or pseudolatex.
  • film-forming polymer means a polymer capable of forming on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous and adherent film on a support, in particular on keratin materials such as the eyelashes.
  • radical-free polymer means a polymer obtained by polymerization of unsaturated monomers, in particular ethylenic, each monomer being capable of homopolymerizing (unlike polycondensates).
  • the film-forming polymers of the radical type may in particular be vinyl polymers or copolymers, in particular acrylic polymers.
  • the vinyl film-forming polymers can result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acid group and / or esters of these acid monomers and / or amides of these acid monomers.
  • ⁇ , ⁇ -ethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid can be used.
  • (meth) acrylic acid and crotonic acid are used, and more preferably (meth) acrylic acid.
  • esters of acidic monomers are advantageously chosen from esters of (meth) acrylic acid (also called (meth) acrylates), in particular
  • alkyl (meth) acrylates in particular C1-C30 alkyl, preferably C-i-
  • aryl (meth) acrylates in particular aryl C 6 -C ⁇ 0 ,
  • hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates in particular C 2 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl.
  • alkyl (meth) acrylates of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate, cyclohexyl methacrylate.
  • hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates mention may be made of hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.
  • aryl (meth) acrylates mention may be made of benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate.
  • the alkyl group of the esters can be either fluorinated or perfluorinated, that is to say that part or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted by fluorine atoms.
  • amides of the acid monomers mention may, for example, be made of (meth) acrylamides, and in particular of N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, in particular of C 2 -C 12 alkyl.
  • N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides there may be mentioned N-ethyl acrylamide, Nt-butyl acrylamide, Nt-octyl acrylamide and N- undecylacrylamide.
  • the vinyl film-forming polymers can also result from the homopolymerization or from the copolymerization of monomers chosen from vinyl esters and styrene monomers.
  • these monomers can be polymerized with acidic monomers and / or their esters and / or their amides, such as those mentioned above.
  • vinyl esters examples include vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl t-butyl benzoate.
  • styrene monomers mention may be made of styrene and alpha-methyl styrene.
  • acrylic film-forming polymer which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of those sold under the names NEOCRYL XK-90®, NEOCRYL A-1070®, NEOCRYL A-1090®, NEOCRYL BT-62®, NEOCRYL A-1079®, NEOCRYL A -523 ® by the company AVECIA-NEORESINS, DOW LATEX 432® by the company DOW CHEMICAL, DAITOSOL 5000 AD by the company DAITO KASEY KOGYO.
  • polyurethanes examples include polyesters, polyester amides, fatty chain polyesters, polyamides, and epoxy ester resins.
  • Polyurethanes are preferably used.
  • the polyurethanes can be chosen from anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, polyurethanes-acrylics, polyurethanes-polyvinylpirrolidones, polyester-polyurethanes, polyether-polyurethanes, polyureas, polyurea-polyurethanes, and their mixtures.
  • the film-forming polyurethane can be, for example, a polyurethane, polyurea-urethane, or polyurea, aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or aromatic copolymer, comprising alone or as a mixture:
  • silicone block branched or not, for example polydimethylsiloxane or polymethylphenylsiloxane, and / or - at least one block comprising fluorinated groups.
  • the film-forming polyurethanes as defined in the invention can also be obtained from polyesters, branched or not, or from alkyds comprising mobile hydrogens which are modified by reaction with a diisocyanate and a bifunctional organic compound (for example dihydro, diamino or hydroxyamino), additionally comprising either a carboxylic acid or carboxylate group, or a sulfonic acid or sulfonate group, or also a neutralizable tertiary amine group or a quaternary ammonium group.
  • a diisocyanate for example dihydro, diamino or hydroxyamino
  • a bifunctional organic compound for example dihydro, diamino or hydroxyamino
  • fiimogenic polyurethane which can be used according to the invention, those marketed under the names NEOREZ R-981®, NEOREZ R-974® by the company AVECIA-NEORESINS, AVALURE UR-405®, AVALURE UR-410®, AVALURE UR- can be used. 425®, AVALURE UR-450®, SANCURE 875®, SANCURE 861®, SANCURE 878®, SANCURE 2060® by GOODRICH, IMPRANIL 85® by BAYER.
  • the polyesters can be obtained, in a known manner, by polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, in particular diols.
  • the dicarboxylic acid can be aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic.
  • examples of such acids include: oxalic acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, 2.2 acid -dimethylglutaric, azelaic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid, acid 1, 3- cyclohexanedicarboxylic, 1,4-cyclohexa-nedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,5-norborane dicarboxylic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2,5- acid naphthalenedicarboxylic, 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid.
  • These dicarboxylic acid monomers can be used alone or in combination of at least
  • the diol can be chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic, aromatic diols. Use is preferably made of a diol chosen from: ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, cyclohexane dimethanol, 4-butanediol. As other polyols, glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, trimethylol propane can be used.
  • the polyester amides can be obtained in a similar manner to the polyesters, by polycondensation of diacids with diamines or amino alcohols.
  • diamine there may be used methylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, meta- or para-phenylenediamine.
  • amino alcohol monethanolamine can be used.
  • the polyester may also comprise at least one monomer carrying at least one group -SO 3 M, with M representing a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion NH 4 + or a metal ion, such as for example an ion Na + , Li + , K +, Mg 2+ , Ca 2+, Cu 2+, Fe 2+, Fe 3+ can be used include an aromatic bifunctional monomer comprising such a group -S0 3 M
  • the aromatic nucleus of the bifunctional aromatic monomer further bearing a group -SO 3 M as described above can be chosen for example from the benzene, naphthalene, anthracene, diphenyl, oxidiphenyl, sulfonyldiphenyl, methylenediphenyl nuclei.
  • a monomer bifunctional aromatic additionally carrying a group -SO 3 M sulfoisophtaic acid, sulfoterephthalic acid, sulfophthalic acid, 4-sulfonaphthalene-2,7-dicarboxylic acid
  • copolymers based on isophthalate / sulfoisophthalate and more particularly copolymers obtained by condensation of di-ethylene glycol, cyclohexane dimethanol, isophthalic acid, sulfoisophthalic acid.
  • Such polymers are sold by example under the brand name Eastman AQ by Eastman Chemical Products
  • the polymers of natural origin can be chosen from shellac resin, sandara gum, dammars, elemis, copals, water-insoluble cellulosic polymers, and mixtures thereof
  • the dispersion comprising one or more film-forming polymers can be prepared by a person skilled in the art on the basis of his general knowledge
  • the size of the polymer particles in aqueous dispersion can range from 10 nm to 500 nm, and preferably from 20 nm to 300 nm
  • a film-forming polymer having a water uptake less than or equal to 50%, preferably less than or equal to 40%, more preferably less than or equal to 30%, and better still less than or equal to 20%.
  • the term "water uptake of the film-forming polymer” means the percentage of water absorbed by the polymer after 10 minutes of immersion in water, at 20 ° C.
  • the water uptake is measured for a layer 300 ⁇ m thick (before drying) deposited on a plate and then dried for 24 hours at 30 ° C and 50% relative humidity, pieces of about 1 c ⁇ 2 cut from the dry film are weighed (measurement of mass M1) then immersed in water for 10 minutes, after immersion, the piece of film is wiped to remove excess water from the surface and then weighed (measurement of mass M2).
  • the difference M2 - M1 corresponds to the amount of water absorbed by the polymer.
  • the water uptake is equal to [(M2 - M1) / M1] x 100 and is expressed as a percentage by weight of water relative to the weight of polymer.
  • the film-forming polymer in aqueous dispersion can be present in the composition according to the invention in a dry matter content ranging from 1% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 5% to 40% by weight , and better from 10% to 30% by weight.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise an auxiliary film-forming agent promoting the formation of a film with the particles of the film-forming polymer.
  • a film-forming agent can be chosen from all the compounds known to a person skilled in the art as being capable of fulfilling the desired function, and in particular can be chosen from plasticizing agents and coalescing agents.
  • the aqueous phase of the composition can consist essentially of water. It can also comprise a mixture of water and water-miscible solvent such as lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, C3-C4 ketones, C-2-C4 aldehydes.
  • the aqueous phase (water and optionally the organic solvent miscible with water) represents, in practice, from 5% to 99.4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention also comprises an aqueous microdispersion of particles of a first wax having a melting point greater than or equal to 70 ° C.
  • aqueous wax microdispersion is understood to mean an aqueous dispersion of wax particles, in which the average size of said wax particles is less than or equal to approximately 1 ⁇ m.
  • Average size less than or equal to 1 ⁇ m is understood to mean the size for which at least 50% by volume of the particles have a size less than or equal to the average size of 1 ⁇ m.
  • the size of the wax particles can be measured using a particle size analyzer, for example the particle size analyzer sold under the reference Mastersizer 2000 by the company Malvern. " •"
  • a wax is a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C), with change of solid / liquid state reversible, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C up to 120 ° C.
  • the first wax can also have a hardness ranging from 0.05 MPa to 15 MPa The hardness is determined by measuring the compressive force measured at 20 ° C using the texturometer sold under the name TA-TX2 ⁇ by the company RHEO, fitted with a stainless steel cylinder with a diameter of 2 mm moving at the measuring speed of 0.1 mm / s, and penetrating into the wax at a penetration depth of 0.3 mm
  • the wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax + 20 ° C
  • the melted wax is poured into a container 30 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep
  • the wax is re-installed
  • first wax we can use Carnauba wax, microc ⁇ stalline waxes, rice bran wax, Chinese insect waxes, Shellac wax, Montan wax, Ou ⁇ curry wax, sugar cane wax, polyethylene waxes, hydrogenated castor oil, and mixtures thereof
  • composition according to the invention may preferably comprise from 0.1% to 50% by weight of dry matter of first wax, in particular from 1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably 5% to 20% by weight
  • the composition can also comprise a sufficient quantity of surfactant to allow a microdispersion of wax to be obtained, as well as a final, stable composition.
  • it can comprise 0.01 to 5% by weight of usual surfactant, which can be chosen from following compounds - anionic surfactants, in particular salts of optionally unsaturated fatty acids, having for example 12 to 18 carbon atoms, alkali salts or organic base salts of alkyl sulfonic and alkyl sulfonic acids having 12 to 18 carbon atoms or alkyl-arylsulfonic acids whose alkyl chain contains 6-18 carbon atoms, ethers-sulfates - nonionic surfactants, in particular polyalkoxylated and / or polyglycerolated surfactants, and in particular fatty acids or fatty acid amides; fatty alcohols or alkylphenols; esters of fatty acids and polyols; alkane diols and alkyl ethers of alkanedi
  • the wax, or mixture of waxes can be combined with one or more fatty additives (oily and / or pasty). Mention may in particular be made of vegetable oils such as sunflower oil, jojoba oil; mineral oils such as paraffin oil; silicone oils; petrolatum, lanolin; fluorinated oils; hydrocarbon oils with a perfluorinated group; fatty alcohol esters.
  • waxy phase liposoluble active ingredients such as UN filters, liposoluble vitamins, liposoluble cosmetic active agents.
  • the first wax and the film-forming polymer in aqueous dispersion may be present in the composition in a weight-bearing polymer / film-based weight ratio ranging from 50/50 to 95/5, and better still ranging from 60/40 to 80/20.
  • the composition also comprises a second wax having a melting point of less than 70 ° C. in the form of particles of average size greater than or equal to 1 ⁇ m, preferably greater than or equal to 1.3 ⁇ m, dispersed in the aqueous phase.
  • the average particle size of the second wax is distinct and larger than the average particle size of the first wax.
  • the average particle size of the second wax can range from 1 ⁇ m to 10 ⁇ m, and preferably from 1.3 ⁇ m to 5 ⁇ m.
  • Average size greater than 1 ⁇ m is understood to mean the size for which at least 50% by volume of the particles have a size greater than the average size of 1 ⁇ m.
  • the second wax makes it possible to obtain a thick make-up of the eyelashes; we then say that the mascara is filling.
  • the second wax preferably has a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C and less than 70 ° C.
  • the second wax may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 2% to 30%, and better still from 5% to 20% by weight .
  • the second wax can be chosen from beeswax, Candellila wax, paraffin wax, ozokéhte, Bayberry wax or Myrtle wax, hydrogenated jojoba oil, palm butter, wax lanolin, Spermaceti wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax, ceresin, and mixtures thereof.
  • the film-forming polymer in aqueous dispersion and the second wax can be present in the composition according to a weight-reducing polymer / second wax weight ratio ranging from 40/60 to 95/5, preferably from 55/45 to 80/20.
  • the aqueous phase of the composition may also comprise an additional water-soluble film-forming polymer, in particular present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • water-soluble polymer there may be mentioned in particular:
  • - water-soluble cellulosic polymers such as hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl ethyl cellulose, ethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose
  • keratin derivatives such as keratin hydrolysates and sulfonic keratins
  • - anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic chitin or chitosan derivatives and in particular hydroxy propyl chitosan, - cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose , as well as quaternized cellulose derivatives;
  • acrylic polymers or copolymers such as polyacrylates or polymethacrylates
  • polyvinyl alcohols and polyvinylpyrrolidones such as polyvinyl alcohols and polyvinylpyrrolidones
  • vinyl copolymers such as copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and malic anhydride, or the copolymer of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid;
  • glycoaminoglycans hyaluronic acid and its derivatives
  • shellac resin sandara gum, dammars, elemis, copals
  • the composition can also comprise at least one coloring material such as pulverulent compounds, for example in an amount of 0.01% to 50% of the total weight of the composition.
  • the pulverulent compounds can be chosen from pigments and / or nacres usually used in cosmetic compositions.
  • the pulverulent compounds represent from 0.1% to 25% of the total weight of the composition and better still from 1% to 20%.
  • the pigments can be white or colored, mineral and / or organic. Mention may be made, among the mineral pigments, of titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, oxides of zinc or cerium, as well as oxides of iron or chromium, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, hydrate of chrome and blue ferric. Among the organic pigments, there may be mentioned carbon black, pigments of the D & C type, and lakes based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum.
  • the pearlescent pigments can be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as mica titanium with iron oxides, mica titanium with especially ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
  • the composition can also comprise fillers which can be chosen from those well known to those skilled in the art and commonly used in cosmetic compositions.
  • the fillers can be mineral or organic, lamellar or spherical. Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, powders of nylon (Orgasol from Atochem), of poly- ⁇ -alanine and of polyethylene, Teflon, lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, powders of tetrafluoroethylene polymers, hollow microspheres such as Expancel (Nobel Industrie), polytrap (Dow Corning) and silicone resin microbeads (Tospearls from Toshiba, for example), carbonate of precipitated calcium, magnesium carbonate and hydro-carbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (SILICA BEADS from MAPRECOS), glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having 8 with 22 carbon atoms,
  • composition according to the invention can also contain ingredients commonly used in cosmetics, such as trace elements, softeners, sebum, perfumes, oils, silicones, thickeners, vitamins, proteins, ceramides, plasticizers, coalescing agents, cohesion agents as well as alkalizing or acidifying agents usually used in the cosmetic field, emollients, preservatives.
  • ingredients commonly used in cosmetics such as trace elements, softeners, sebum, perfumes, oils, silicones, thickeners, vitamins, proteins, ceramides, plasticizers, coalescing agents, cohesion agents as well as alkalizing or acidifying agents usually used in the cosmetic field, emollients, preservatives.
  • the composition according to the invention can be prepared according to the usual methods of the fields considered. It can be prepared in particular by first mixing the polymer in aqueous dispersion with the non-waxy constituents of the aqueous phase then by heating this mixture to a temperature ranging from 30 ° C to 80 ° C, in particular at a temperature slightly higher than the melting temperature of the second wax. Then the second wax is melted and is added to the heated aqueous dispersion, with stirring, making it possible to obtain particles of the second wax having a size greater than or equal to 1 ⁇ m. The mixture is then cooled to room temperature (about 25 ° C) and then the microdispersion of the first wax prepared according to the method of preparation described above is added. After the other ingredients are added, such as coloring matter, preservatives.
  • a microdispersion of carnauba wax having the following composition was prepared:
  • the wax and the surfactant were heated to 90 ° C. while homogenizing the mixture with moderate stirring. Then the water heated to 90 ° C. was incorporated while continuing to agitate. It was cooled to room temperature and ethanol added to obtain a microdispersion of wax having an average particle diameter of about 170 nm.
  • This mascara was prepared by mixing the polyurethane in aqueous dispersion and the thickening agent and heating this mixture to 65 ° C. Then the beeswax was melted to disperse it with stirring in the thickened latex so as to obtain beeswax particles of average size greater than 1 ⁇ m. The mixture was then cooled to room temperature (about 25 ° C), then the ground pigments in propylene glycol and the microdispersion of wax were added, as well as the preservatives dissolved in ethanol.
  • the mascara is easily applied to the eyelashes and forms a loading makeup that is resistant to cold water. It also gives good curl to the eyelashes.
  • the mascara is easily removed with hot water (40 ° C).
  • the mascara is easily applied to the eyelashes and forms a loading make-up, resistant to cold water (20 ° C). It also gives good curl to the eyelashes.

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Zoology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
EP01982578A 2000-10-27 2001-10-26 Filmlbildende, kosmetische zusammensetzung Withdrawn EP1331915A1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR0013877 2000-10-27
FR0013877A FR2815851B1 (fr) 2000-10-27 2000-10-27 Composition cosmetique filmogene
PCT/FR2001/003350 WO2002034214A1 (fr) 2000-10-27 2001-10-26 Composition cosmetique filmogene

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1331915A1 true EP1331915A1 (de) 2003-08-06

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US (1) US20040022752A1 (de)
EP (1) EP1331915A1 (de)
JP (1) JP2004522701A (de)
CN (1) CN1471386A (de)
FR (1) FR2815851B1 (de)
WO (1) WO2002034214A1 (de)

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FR2844196B1 (fr) 2002-09-06 2004-11-19 Oreal Composition cosmetique de maquillage pour les fibres keratiniques, chargeantes et/ou separantes
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Publication number Publication date
FR2815851A1 (fr) 2002-05-03
US20040022752A1 (en) 2004-02-05
WO2002034214A1 (fr) 2002-05-02
CN1471386A (zh) 2004-01-28
JP2004522701A (ja) 2004-07-29
FR2815851B1 (fr) 2002-12-13

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