EP1324746A1

EP1324746A1 - Formulation containing wax-esters

Info

Publication number: EP1324746A1
Application number: EP01976357A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Georges Résidence Bois Fleury CECCHI; Jacques Margnat
Original assignee: Sophim
Current assignee: Sophim
Priority date: 2000-10-13
Filing date: 2001-10-04
Publication date: 2003-07-09
Also published as: US20040037859A1; FR2815254B1; KR20020063909A; AU2001295657A1; WO2002030386A1; JP2004510804A; FR2815254A1

Abstract

The invention concerns a formulation comprising non-fat softeners based on wax-esters, whereof the constituents have a molecular weight less than 600 Dalton, preferably less than 450, comprising: fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters derived from interesterification by said one fatty alcohol of triglycerides of an oil of natural origin, preferably a vegetable oil; and residual triglycerides, diglycerides and monoglycerides derived from said interesterification. The invention is characterised in that it comprises at least two said wax-esters whereof at least one said wax-ester is a hydrogenated wax-ester including: fatty acid hydrogenated esters derived from the interesterification by one said fatty alcohol, triglycerides of a natural oil, preferably of vegetable origin followed by hydrogenation of said esters; and residual hydrogenated triglycerides, diglycerides and monoglycerides derived from said interesterification, followed by said hydrogenation.

Description

FORMULATION CONTAINING WAXES-ESTERS

The present invention relates to formulations containing non-greasy emolients based on wax-esters, in particular hydrogenated wax-esters.

The present invention relates more particularly to the application of these formulations in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical fields.

More specifically, the wax-esters according to the present invention are wax-esters, the constituents of which have a molecular weight of less than 600 Dalton, preferably less than 450, comprising a mixture of: several fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters originating from the interesterification by said fatty alcohol of the triglycerides of an oil of natural origin, preferably of vegetable origin, optionally followed by the hydrogenation of said esters,

. residual triglycerides, diglycerides and monoglycerides, optionally hydrogenated, originating from said interesterification.

Emolients are widely used in cosmetics and pharmacy, to make dry skin supple and to improve its elasticity. The term emollient generally designates a set of perceptions transmitted by touch and by sight. Perceptions induced by touch evoke softness, elasticity and sliding power. Perceptions induced by sight evoke shine and mat.

The number of emoliients offered by suppliers of cosmetic raw materials is considerable. These emolients are distinguished from each other by their chemical nature but also by the result of two quantities: emollience on application and residual emollience. There are emollients with a protective effect, others with a superfatting effect, some give the impression of a dry effect, others finally act as astringents.

The vast majority of these emoliients are characterized by the presence of fatty acids with a more or less long, linear or branched carbon chain. These fatty acids are themselves combined in the form of esters, with alcohols with a more or less long carbon chain, linear or branched. It is these esters and their fatty acids which form the basis of the emollience effect. It is generally considered that there exist in this category of emollient two families of esters: those having a completely natural origin, and those having a synthetic origin, the synthesis involving the esterification of fatty acid by alcohol. . Synthetic esters are generally made from saturated fatty acids, which gives them great stability against oxidation, but removes them from any possibility of playing a role by integration in the biosynthetic processes developing at the level of the epidermis. It is indeed well known that the polyunsaturated fatty acids (linoleic and linolenic) called essential fatty acids can transform under the effect of the enzymes which the epidermis contains, into other polyunsaturated fatty acids, susceptible among other actions of limiting the transepidermal water loss. This limitation of water loss guarantees the emollience of the skin, and it is this particular emollience effect which is sought in esters of natural origin, such as those which are found in oils and vegetable fats, marine oils and certain animal fats.

All these fatty substances are constituted by a mixture of esters which are triglycerides or triesters of glycerol and fatty acids. It is the nature of the fatty acids involved in these esters which will give its consistency to the fatty substance resulting from their mixing. Thus the more the composition of these fatty substances will be rich in saturated fatty acids and the higher their consistency will be to the point of obtaining more or less concrete fats or butters at 20 ° C. Even completely solid products are obtained at this temperature with completely hydrogenated fatty substances. Conversely, the higher the content of (mono- and poly-) unsaturated fatty acids, the more the fatty substance will tend to be completely fluid at 20 ° C.

This is the case with vegetable oils, characterized by a fatty acid composition whose overall content of unsaturated fatty acids is often greater than 85%. The liquid consistency of the oils is a first advantage which goes in the direction of obtaining an emollient effect. It is necessary to add to the effect of the liquid consistency that of essential fatty acids like linoleic acid always present in vegetable oils with variable contents which are function of the botanical origin of the oleaginous species from which they come. As mentioned above, the transformation of this linoleic acid into other unsaturated fatty acids via a biosynthetic process, results in an important hydrating effect contributing to maintain the epidermis in a good state of emollience. Finally, it is necessary to take into account for vegetable oils the important biological effect played by the components of their unsaponifiable such as squalene, carotenes, triterpene alcohols, bocapherols and mainly phytosterols. These oils can on the other hand be completely hydrogenated to give solid emolient fatty substances, having lost their biological activity, but oxidatively very stable and capable of giving the consistency necessary for certain creams.

While all these advantages are well known, the fact remains that vegetable oils and fatty substances in general have the serious disadvantage of giving a greasy feel after their application to the skin due to their low speed of penetration into the epidermis. It is generally recognized ^" that the percutaneous penetration rate of a molecule is inversely proportional to its molecular weight. We can consider that this speed is still relatively important for a molecular weight of 400 Dalton but that beyond it begins to However, the molecular weight of the triglycerides in vegetable oils is centered around 870 Dalton, well above the 400 Dalton limit, so we understand that vegetable oils such as those used in cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations can leave this impression of fat given by the triglycerides which penetrate only very slowly into the skin.

We know jojoba oil which is naturally made of wax-esters. However, the molecular weight of the two main constituents is 612 Dalton, which induces a slow percutaneous absorption rate. In addition, the particularity of this wax composed of esters of monoene fatty acids and monoene fatty alcohols means that by definition this oil does not contain essential fatty acids. Its topical application therefore does not make it possible to benefit from the effect of the latter in limiting the loss of transepidermal water, as is the case for Ceresters® in general. Last but not least, jojoba oil containing only wax-esters to the exclusion of any mono-glyceride does not reveal emulsifying properties.

There has been described in application FR99 / 05006 unpublished and PCT / FR00 / 01901 in the name of the applicant, a process for the manufacture of emollients whose molecular weight of the main components, namely esters of fatty acids and alcohol fat is less than approximately 600, more preferably less than approximately 450 Dalton, which makes it possible to obtain an emollient preparation with a non-fatty feel from vegetable oils and fatty substances in general. This process consists of transforming oils vegetable or fatty substances in general and to purify the transformation product under conditions such that all the integrity of their fatty acids and of their unsaponifiable matter is respected, so as to exploit all the properties of fatty substances without having the disadvantage of their greasy touch.

This process includes the following steps:

a) the interesterification of the triglycerides of a fatty material, preferably of vegetable origin, with a primary alcohol, preferably of vegetable origin, in the presence of a catalyst;

b) removing the catalyst;

c) distilling off the residual alcohol, preferably in the presence of a bleaching agent, then removing the bleaching agent;

d1) or the refrigeration of the preferably discolored residue so as to at least partially crystallize the residual glycerides; then elimination in particular by filtration of said residual crystallized glycerides;

d2) or the hydrogenation of the preferably discolored residue.

This process makes it possible to transform the triglycerides of fatty substances, in particular those of vegetable oils into molecules of significantly lower molecular weight, thus penetrating more easily into the epidermis.

Step a) consists of an alcoholysis (interesterification) of the triglycerides with a fatty alcohol, reaction giving rise to the formation of wax-esters defined chemically as esters of fatty acids and fatty alcohol.

The refrigeration operation is carried out in step d1) by stirring the discolored distillate, at a temperature between approximately 10 ° C and approximately 14 ° C, for a period generally at least equal to approximately 1 hour and at most equal to about 4 hours, after which the frozen product is filtered. The refrigeration temperature could be reduced, but this would involve a risk that part of the waxes-esters according to the invention crystallize and then be eliminated with the residual crystallized glycerides.

In step d1) said residual glycerides which are crystallized are saturated mono-, di- or triglycerides resulting from incomplete interesterification by said alcohol primary in step a). Their elimination makes it possible to obtain products which are completely liquid at the freezing temperature, in particular in general liquid at room temperature, that is to say at a temperature of at least 15 ° C. After step d1), there remain unsaturated residual mono-, di- and triglycerides originating from said interesterification.

The products obtained in step d1) are hereinafter called "non-hydrogenated wax-esters", or "cerester ®".

In step d2), the hydrogenation of the residue leads to products with higher melting points, generally solid at room temperature, and in general with a melting temperature of between 23 and 80 ° C. depending on the molecular weight of the products. These products are hereinafter called "hydrogenated wax-esters" or

"Phytowax ®".

In step d2), the product (residue) recovered after distillation of the residual alcohol, can be hydrogenated in a reactor under a hydrogen pressure of approximately 1 to approximately 20 bar, in the presence of a catalyst such as a catalyst based on nickel or on palladium, at a temperature at least equal to approximately 100 ° C. and at most at approximately 220 ° C., for a duration generally at least equal to approximately 2 hours and at most equal to approximately 8 hours. Under these conditions, all the unsaturations of the carbon chain of the acid and of the alcohol (if it is unsaturated) are hydrogenated, with for the hydrogenated product an iodine index of less than 1. The separation of the catalyst then takes place. by simple filtration on paper.

The alcohol used in the interesterification step can in particular be chosen from C1-C22 alkanols, C3-C22 alkenols or branched C3-C22 alcohols. These branched alcohols are alcohols capable of carrying C1-C8 alkyl substitutes. Among the C1-C22 alkanols, those chosen from C4-C18 are preferably chosen, in particular those from C6-C18; among the branched alcohols in C3-C22, preference is given to those in C8-C22.

Advantageously, use is made in step a) of approximately 30% by weight to approximately

150% by weight of alcohol relative to the weight of the fat. At the end of the interesterification reaction, the residual alcohol content is generally between approximately 20% by weight and approximately 35% by weight relative to the weight of the starting alcohol. The catalyst used to carry out the interesterification reaction is preferably an alkaline base, an alkali metal alcoholate, an alkali metal or a strong acid. Advantageously, the catalyst is chosen from sodium hydroxide, sodium methylate, sodium metal or toluene-4 sulfonic acid.

The interesterification reaction is generally carried out with stirring for approximately 0.5 hour to approximately 10 hours, under an inert atmosphere, for example under a nitrogen atmosphere, and at a temperature at least equal to approximately 100 ° C. and at most equal to approximately 200 ° C.

Advantageously, the removal of the catalyst in step b), when the latter is of the alkaline type, is carried out with an excess of about 500% relative to the stoichiometric amount of a strong acid such as sulfuric acid or hydrochloric acid in aqueous solution at least N and at most 5N, necessary for the neutralization of the alkaline catalyst by stirring at room temperature for at least about half an hour and at most about one hour. The catalyst neutralization operation is then followed by washes with water, with for each of said washes carried out with stirring at a temperature between approximately 80 ° C. and approximately 100 ° C., an amount of water at least equal to approximately 10% by weight and at most about 20% by weight relative to the weight of the product to be washed. Between two and four washes are generally necessary to achieve neutrality. When the catalyst is a strong acid, its elimination is advantageously carried out by simple washes with water. To carry out these washes at a temperature of between approximately 80 ° C. and approximately 100 ° C. with stirring, an amount of water at least equal to approximately 10% by weight and at most approximately 20% by weight is used for each washing. relative to the weight of the product to be washed. One carries out as many washes as necessary to obtain a washing water with a neutral pH.

The distillation of the residual alcohol in the product neutralized in step c) is carried out under an absolute pressure of the order of 10 to 100 Pascal, at a temperature at least equal to approximately 65 ° C. and at most equal to approximately 230 ° C, for a period generally at most equal to approximately 4 hours and preferably equal to approximately 2 hours. Advantageously, said distillation operation is carried out in the presence of a quantity of bleaching agent such as in particular activated carbon, at least equal to approximately 0.1% by weight and at most equal to approximately 1% by weight of the product to distilled. After complete cooling, the bleaching agent is generally separated from the distillation residue by simple filtration.

The product obtained in step d1) or d2) has a wax ester content (expressed as a percentage relative to the weight of the product obtained) of between approximately 55% by weight and approximately 95% by weight, preferably between approximately 66% by weight and approximately 90% by weight, and in particular still between approximately 70% by weight and approximately

80% by weight.

A non-greasy emollient based on wax-esters capable of being obtained by the process described above has the following characteristics:

- it can be liquid, solid, or grease-like at 20 ° C,

- perfectly compatible with the epidermis,

- dry and silky touch,

- great ease of spreading,

- rapid penetration into the epidermis. - with dermatological properties identical to those of the starting oil.

The waxes-esters obtained consist more particularly of a mixture of:

- 66 to 95% by weight of wax-esters,

- 0.1 to 12% by weight of triglycerides, - 3 to 20% by weight of diglycerides, and

- 1.5 to 10% by weight of monoglycerides (the total of the proportions of the four components representing 100%, with the exception of the unsaponifiables, the latter generally representing of the order of 0.5 to 1.5% by weight).

The original problem underlying the present invention is to provide formulations, in particular for cosmetic use having:

. properties of non-greasy emollients, that is to say endowed with a rapid skin penetration ability, and additional characteristics consisting of a light and creamy texture and consistency on application and during spreading, skin penetration the formulation to be progressive during the spreading, and . biological properties linked to the presence of natural compounds from oil of natural origin such as unsaponifiable compounds and essential fatty acids.

To do this, the present invention provides a formulation comprising non-greasy emolients based on wax esters, the constituents of which have a molecular weight of less than 610 Dalton, preferably less than 450, comprising:

. esters of fatty acids and fatty alcohol originating from the interesterification by said fatty alcohol of the triglycerides of an oil of natural origin, preferably of vegetable origin, and

10. residual triglycerides, diglycerides and monoglycerides originating from said interesterification,

characterized in that it comprises at least two said wax-esters of which at least one said wax-ester is a hydrogenated wax-ester comprising:

. hydrogenated esters of fatty acids originating from the interesterification by 15. said fatty alcohol, triglycerides of an oil of natural origin preferably of vegetable origin, followed by the hydrogenation of said esters, and

. residual hydrogenated triglycerides, diglycerides and monoglycerides originating from said interesterification, followed by said hydrogenation.

Said formulation can therefore contain:

0 - or at least a first wax-ester which is a non-hydrogenated wax-ester or cerester® and at least a second wax-ester which is a hydrogenated wax-ester or Phytowax®,

- or at least a first wax-ester which is a hydrogenated wax-ester and at least a second wax-ester which is a hydrogenated wax-ester, the two said hydrogenated wax-esters being different and in particular having different melting temperatures.

The term “hydrogenation” or “hydrogenated” is understood here to mean that in the hydrocarbon chains, the CC unsaturations are hydrogenated, said chain then comprising only then saturated CC bonds, in particular in the hydrocarbon radical 0 corresponding to the decarboxylated residue of said fatty acid. In an advantageous embodiment, the formulation comprises at least two said hydrogenated ester waxes, the melting points of the at least two hydrogenated ester waxes being different from at least 10 ° C, and said melting points being between 23 and 75 ° C.

In a more particularly advantageous embodiment, at least one said wax-ester has a melting temperature of less than 35 ° C, preferably less than 30 ° C, and at least one said hydrogenated wax-ester has a melting temperature of more than 40 ° C, preferably above 45 ° C.

More particularly, the formulation according to the invention comprises at least a first wax-ester which is a non-hydrogenated wax-ester liquid at room temperature and at least a second wax-ester which is a solid hydrogenated wax-ester at room temperature.

More particularly, said fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters comprise:

. a C1 to C22 alkyl radical, preferably C6 to C18, corresponding to a dehydroxylated residue of said saturated fatty alcohol, and

. a C 11 to C 21 hydrocarbon radical, preferably C 15 to C 21 corresponding to a decarboxylated residue of said acid.

According to a preferred embodiment, a fatty alcohol is used which is a linear saturated fatty alcohol from C6 to C18 chosen from 1-hexanol, 1-octanol, 1-decanol, 1-dodecanol, 1-tetradecanol, 1-hexadecanol, 1-octadecanol, oleic alcohol or hexyldecanol.

The fatty alcohols used advantageously come from the hydrogenolysis of the methyl esters of the fatty acids obtained by fractional distillation of the hydrolysis products of vegetable oils. These fatty alcohols of vegetable origin are commercially available.

In an advantageous embodiment, said hydrogenated ester waxes comprise a mixture of at least two said esters chosen from C6 to C22 alkyl stearate, C 6 to C22 alkyl palmitate, C6 to alkyl arachidate C22, and C6 to C22 alkyl hydroxystearate. Stearic acid comes from the hydrogenation of oleic, linoleic and linolenic fatty acids. The hydrogenation of gadoleic acid also present in vegetable oils provides arachidic acid. The essential fatty acid hydrogenation product of olive oil contains mainly stearic acid (around 85%). Likewise, the fatty acid hydrogenation product of castor oil mainly contains 12-hydroxystearic acid (approximately 85%).

In one embodiment, the formulation comprises:

at least one said first hydrogenated wax-ester, the said hydrogenated esters of which comprise a C1 to C8 alkyl radical, preferably C6 to C8, derived from said saturated fatty alcohol, and

- At least one said second hydrogenated wax-ester, the said hydrogenated esters of which comprise a C10 to C22 alkyl radical originating from the said saturated fatty alcohol.

In a particular embodiment, the formulation comprises: at least one said first non-hydrogenated wax-ester liquid at room temperature whose said non-hydrogenated esters comprise a C1 to C10 alkyl radical, preferably C6 to C10, and

- At least one said second hydrogenated wax-ester, the said esters of which include a C6 to C10 alkyl radical.

Advantageously, said saturated fatty alcohol used for the preparation of said esters is identical in each of said esters originating from the same so-called oil of natural origin, and is different for the different so-called wax-esters of the formulation, ie those from different oils.

As mentioned previously, said wax-esters comprise residual triglycerides, diglycerides and monoglycerides and unsaponifiables originating from said oil of natural origin in the following respective proportions:

- 66 to 95% by weight of esters possibly hydrogenated,

- 0.1 to 12% by weight of triglycerides, possibly hydrogenated,

- 3 to 20% by weight of diglycerides, possibly hydrogenated, - 1.5 to 10% by weight of monoglycerides, possibly hydrogenated,

- 0.5 to 1.5% by weight of unsaponifiable matter, possibly hydrogenated,

the sum of the percentages of these various constituents representing 100%.

Said wax-esters used in the formulation according to the invention can come in particular from olive oil, castor oil, sweet almond, hazelnut, apricot, borage, rapeseed, soybean or sunflower.

In an advantageous embodiment of a formulation according to the invention, the latter comprises at least 3, preferably at least 5, called hydrogenated wax-esters.

Suitably, said wax-esters are included in the oily phase of an emulsion.

A formulation according to the present invention may especially comprise natural waxes of the beeswax, carnauba wax, candellila wax, ozocerite, ceresin type.

A formulation according to the present invention can comprise from 0.5 to 15% by weight of said wax-esters.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic formulation useful in particular as a care cream, foundation cream, care lotion after-shampoo, coating for coloring the lips, characterized in that it comprises a formulation according to the invention.

The advantage of the formulations of the present invention lies in the fact that it has structure and body, while providing softness, flux and smoothness to the application.

Said wax-esters having a melting point lower than about 30 ° C, that is to say lower than the body temperature bring to the formulation a smooth spreading without greasy touch, as well as a feeling of cooling on spreading. Said hydrogenated ester waxes having a higher melting point than body temperature provide the formulation with a thickening effect, without spreading greasy touch while retaining a light and creamy texture. They advantageously replace all of the fatty alcohols conventionally used to give viscosity to the formulations (fatty alcohols in C14, C16 or C18) and this all the more since they limit the foaming effect.

The use of hydrogenated ester waxes in the formulations according to the invention gives a pleasant sensory impact due to the impression of using creams which melt on the skin. The combined use of several wax-esters reinforces this impression and prolongs the effect over time.

In addition, said wax-esters liquid at room temperature according to the invention of vegetable origin by their manufacturing process preserve essential fatty acids which have active properties already well known elsewhere. They therefore make it possible to combine the advantages of essential fatty acids without having their disadvantage with a non-greasy feel.

According to the present invention, it is possible to use all the existing vegetable oils, and thus to take advantage of the great diversity of fatty acid compositions of the latter, as well as that of the aponifiable of the starting oil.

Depending on the botanical origin of the oil involved in the manufacture of ceresters ®, the latter may contain more or less essential fatty acids such as linoleic acid, the role of which is well known in limiting the loss of trans-epidermal water. This is the case with ceresters ® of sunflower which provide around 60% linoleic acid, without having the disadvantage of the greasy feel inherent in original sunflower oil.

In addition, depending on the alcohol level of the triglycerides of the oil used, there is always a greater or lesser proportion of residual monoglycerides in the ester waxes which confer an emulsifying effect on these products.

Other characteristics and advantages of the present invention will become apparent in the light of the detailed examples given purely by way of illustration. Fully hydrogenated ester waxes were prepared from olive oil, more particularly a range of 7 products whose melting points regularly vary from 25 ° to 57 ° C. This range was obtained by alcoholysis of the olive oil (C18 fatty acids) with different fatty alcohols of vegetable origin of carbon condensation varying between 6 and 18. This gives a range of products of totally vegetable origin and whose molecular weight varies between 366 and 534 Dalton.

The hydrogenated wax-esters prepared are solid products at 20 ° C, of which all the essential fatty acids have been hydrogenated to stearic acid. Since olive oil consists of 85% C18 acids and 14% C16 acids, the waxes-esters resulting from its hydrogenation consist of 85% alkyl stearate, the melting point of which increases with the carbon condensation of the alcohol involved in the production of wax-esters. It is thus possible to constitute a range of products with increasing melting points, by varying the length of the alcohol. By proceeding in the same way with castor oil consisting of 85% of ricinoleic acid (monounsaturated), after hydrogenation, a product consisting of 85% of hydroxystearic acid (saturated) is obtained which makes it possible to complete the "olive" range with products. at higher melting points. We thus obtain a range of totally saturated waxes-esters, of vegetable origin, with various melting points which, used individually or as a mixture, bring several new sensory touches in cosmetics.

For the formulation of wax-esters liquid at room temperature, we chose olive ceresters ®, because of their relative oxidative stability, and the media impact of this oil. We have also implemented ceresters ® sweet almond oil, due to the universal use of sweet almond oil in cosmetics. Finally, we selected sunflower ceresters ® for the high percentage of linoleic acid in sunflower oil, an acid considered essential and which, by its incorporation in ceramides, also limits the loss of percutaneous water.

For solid waxes-esters, it is a range of 10 products obtained from olive oil and castor oil which have been tested in individual or combined use:

The figures indicated in the definition of phytowax, for example 6 L 25, denote:

* The first digit, the number of carbons in the fatty alcohol used, 6 for the example chosen

+ The letter L, the fact that it is a linear alcohol

* And the second digit the average melting point of the product, 25 ° C for the example chosen

In the table above:

- The iodine index is defined as the mass in grams of iodine fixed per 100 g of sample (Standard NF ISO 3961). In fact each double bond fixes a mole of iodine (12). The value of 4 given for the iodine index is an upper limit set for the specifications and not a measurement value.

- The acidity to which we refer does not correspond to a pH but to an acidity expressed in the Acid Index defined by the number of milligrams of potassium hydroxide necessary for the neutralization of the free fatty acids of 1 g of fatty substances (Standard NF T 60.204).

- The saponification index is defined as the number of milligrams of potassium hydroxide necessary to saponify 1 g of fat (Standard ISO 3657: 1988 F).

EXAMPLE 1 Protocol for the preparation of Phytowax ® Olive 10 L40 1.1. - 670 g of refined olive oil are poured into a flask with a tube. 330 g of 1 -decanol in which 0.5 g of sodium has been dissolved are added. After creating an absolute vacuum of 5000 Pa, the temperature rises to 125 ° C. On reaching this temperature, the atmosphere of the balloon is slightly pressurized with nitrogen. After 30 minutes of stirring at 125 ° C., the interesterification reaction has reached the desired level.

1.2. - The product obtained above is subjected to the following treatment. The product being maintained under vacuum in the reaction flask, 50 ml of 2N aqueous sulfuric acid solution are added. The temperature is brought to 90 ° C, stirred for 15 minutes and allowed to settle. The acidic aqueous phase is drawn off, 100 ml of water are added, the mixture is stirred for 10 minutes at 90 ° C., then allowed to settle. This washing with water is repeated twice, which makes it possible to achieve neutrality. The product is left to settle completely, which is then completely dried under reduced pressure at 95 ° C. 960 g of product are recovered to which 2.4 g of activated carbon are added. The mixture is distilled under vacuum (70 Pa) and under nitrogen sparging, gradually heating the flask so that the temperature reached by the fluid at the end of distillation does not exceed 180 ° C. The vacuum during distillation is around 60 pa. The distillation is stopped after 2 hours. 900 g of product are recovered from the distillation flask, which are filtered on paper to separate the activated carbon. 880 g of a yellow liquid product are obtained, which reveals a slight precipitate.

1.3. - The product obtained above is hydrogenated in a stirred reactor, with 1% of nickel-based catalyst deposited on silica (25% of nickel in the catalyst), under a pressure of 10 bar of hydrogen, at 200 ° C. , for 6 hours. After filtration of the catalyst, a white-beige product is obtained, having a melting point of 40 ° C. and an iodine index of less than 1.

The product obtained after hydrogenation and filtration comprises (per 100 grams of product obtained):

* 82.0 grams of wax-ester, of which:

69.7 g of decyl octadecanoate (decyl stearate), MW = 424 dalton,

- 11.9 g of decyl hexadecanoate (decyl palmitate), - 0.4 g of decyl eicosanoate (decyl arachidate), ^* 5.5 grams of triglycerides (palmitic 14.5%, stearic 85.0 % 0.5% peanut), ^* 6.1 grams of diglycerides (14.5% palmitic, 85.0% stearic, 0.5% peanut), * 4.1 grams of monoglycerides (14.5% palmitic, 85 stearic , 0%, peanut 0.5%).

EXAMPLE 2 - Protocol for the preparation of Cerester ® Olive 10

875 g of the product obtained above in 1.2. (Example 1) are introduced into a cylindrical reactor equipped with a double outer jacket allowing the passage of a cooling fluid. The liquid is gradually cooled to a temperature of 14.5 ° C, by passing the cooling fluid itself brought to 14 ° C in the jacket of said refrigeration reactor, with stirring for 4 hours, then it is filtered. 850 g of a yellow liquid are obtained, which has no marked odor, and which is perfectly clear at 15 ° C.

The product obtained after refrigeration and filtration comprises (per 100 grams of product obtained):

^* 82.2 grams of wax-ester including,

- 60.9 g of octadecene 9c 1-decylate (decyl oleate), MW = 422 dalton,

- 10.2 g of 1-decyl hexadecanoate (decyl palmitate), - 1.8 g of hexadecene 9c 1-decyl oate (decyl palmitoleate),

- 2.0 g of 1-decyl octadecanoate (decyl stearate), - 6.4 g of octadecadiene 9c10c 1-decyl oate (decyl linoleate),

- 0.5 g of octadecatriene 9c10c12c 1-decyl oate (α decyl linole-nate),

- 0.1 g of decyl eicosanoate (decyl arachidate),

- 0.3 g of eicosene 11c decyl oate (decyl gadoleate), ^* 5.5 grams of triglycerides,

* 6.0 grams of diglycerides,

* 4.0 grams of monoglycerides. EXAMPLE 3 Protocol for the preparation of Phytowax ® Olive 6 L25

750 g of olive oil are poured into a flask with a tube, and then 242 g of hexanol in which 0.5 g of sodium has been dissolved are poured. After creating a vacuum of 10000 Pa absolute, the temperature rose to 100 ° C. When the temperature reaches, the vacuum is cut and the balloon atmosphere is slightly pressurized with nitrogen. The temperature is then brought to 125 ° C. and maintained at this temperature for 30 minutes. The flask is then cooled to room temperature. The product obtained undergoes the same catalyst removal treatment by washing with 2N sulfuric acid as the product of Example 1.2. After removing the washing water, 0.25% by weight of carbon is added to the product obtained. The product is then subjected to distillation at 180 ° C under a vacuum of 60 Pa for 2 hours. After cooling the product is filtered on paper. The filtrate obtained is then hydrogenated under the same conditions as in Example 1.3. After filtration of the catalyst, a product is obtained having a melting point of 25.0 ° C. and an index of an iodine index of less than 1.

^* 89.1 grams of wax-ester, of which:

- 74.9 g of 1-hexyl octadecanoate (hexyl stearate), PM ≈ 368 Dalton,

- 13.1 g of 1-hexyl hexadecanoate (hexyl palmitate), - 1.1 g of 1-hexyl eicosanoate (hexyl arachidate), ^* 1.1 grams of triglycerides (palmitic 14.5% , stearic 85.0%, arachidic 0.5%), * 3.4 grams of diglycerides (palmitic 14.5%, stearic 85.0%, arachidic 0.5%).

EXAMPLE 4: Protocol for the preparation of Phytowax ® Olive 8 L28

700 g of refined olive are poured into a flask with a tube, and then 300 g of 1-octanol are poured into which 0.55 g of sodium has been dissolved. After creating a vacuum of 5000 Pa absolute, the temperature rose to 100 ° C. When the temperature reaches, the vacuum is cut and the balloon atmosphere is slightly pressurized with nitrogen. The temperature is then brought to 125 ° C. and maintained for 45 minutes. The flask is then cooled to room temperature. After treatment of the product with 50 ml of 2N sulfuric acid, at 90 ° C with stirring for 15 minutes, allowed to settle. After drawing off the aqueous phase and washing with water to neutrality, the product is dried under reduced pressure at 95 ° C. After adding 0.25% of activated carbon, the residual 1-octanol is distilled under vacuum (70 Pa). The distillation is stopped after 2 hours. After cooling, the product is filtered on paper, the filtrate is hydrogenated in a stirred reactor with 1% nickel-based catalyst deposited on silica (25% nickel in the catalyst), under a pressure of 10 bar of hydrogen, at 200 ° C, for 6 hours. After filtration of the catalyst, a whitish-colored product is obtained, having a melting point of 29 ° C.

The product obtained after hydrogenation and filtration comprises per 100 g of product obtained:

* 82.5 g of wax-esters, of which:

- 71.1 g of octyl octadecanoate (caprilyl stearate), - 10.1 g of octyl hexadecanoate (caprilyl palmitate), - 0.4 g of octyl eicosanoate (caprilyl arachidate) .

^* 7.4 g of triglycerides (palmitic 14.5%, stearic, 85.0%, arachidic 0.5%),

^* 3.6 g diglycerides (palmitic 14.5%, stearic, 85.0% arachidic 0.5%), * 4.1 g monoglycerides (palmitic 14.5%, stearic, 85.0% arachidic

0.5%),

EXAMPLE 5 - Protocol for the preparation of Phytowax ® Olive 14L48

600 g of olive oil are poured into a flask in a tube, and then 402 g of 1 -tetradecanol in which 0.8 g of sodium has been dissolved are added. After creating a vacuum of 5000 Pa absolute, the temperature rose to 100 ° C. When the temperature reaches, the vacuum is cut and the balloon atmosphere is slightly pressurized with nitrogen. The temperature is then brought to 125 ° C. and maintained at this temperature for 30 minutes. The flask is then cooled to room temperature. The product obtained undergoes the same catalyst removal treatment by washing with 2N sulfuric acid as the product of Example 12. After removal of the washing water is added to the product obtained 0.25% by weight of coal. The product is then subjected to distillation at 200 ° C under a vacuum of 60 Pa for 2 hours. After cooling the product is filtered on paper. The filtrate obtained is then hydrogenated under the same conditions as in Example 1.3. After filtration of the catalyst, a product is obtained having a melting point of 48 ° C. and an iodine index of less than 1.

* 78.9 grams of wax-ester, of which: - 64.0 g of 1-tetradecyl octadecanoate (myristyl stearate)

PM = 480 Dalton,

- 13.6 g of 1-tetradecyl hexadecanoate (myristyl palmitate)

- 1.3 g of 1-tetradecyl eicosanoate (myristyl arachidate),

* 8.8 grams of triglycerides (palmitic 14.5%, stearic 85.0%, arachidic 0.5%),

* 5.3 grams of diglycerides (palmitic 14.5%, stearic 85.0%, arachidic 0.5%),

* 3.9 grams of monoglycerides (palmitic 14.5%, stearic 85.0%, arachidic 0.5%).

EXAMPLE 6 Protocol for the preparation of Phytowax ® Olive 16 L55

565 g of olive oil are poured into a flask in a tube, and then 435 g of 1-hexadecanol in which 1.5 g of sodium has been dissolved are added. After creating an absolute vacuum of 5000 Pa, the temperature rises to 125 ° C. When this temperature arrives, the atmosphere in the balloon is slightly pressurized with nitrogen. After 1 hour of reaction at 125 ° C., the flask is cooled. After treatment of the product with 50 ml of 2N sulfuric acid, at 90 ° C. with stirring for 15 minutes, the mixture is left to settle. After drawing off the aqueous phase and washing with water to neutrality, the product is dried under reduced pressure at 95 ° C. After adding 0.25% of activated carbon, the residual 1-hexadecanol is distilled under vacuum (50 Pa). The distillation is stopped after 2 hours. The product is then filtered hot on paper under a nitrogen atmosphere. The filtrate is hydrogenated in a reactor stirred with 1% nickel-based catalyst deposited on silica (25% nickel in the catalyst), under a pressure of 10 bar of hydrogen, at 200 ° C for 6 hours. After filtration of the catalyst, a whitish color product is obtained, having a melting point of 56 ° C.

* 80.1 g of wax-esters, of which:

- 67.5 g of hexadecyl octadecanoate (palmityl stearate), MW = 508 Dalton

- 10.6 g of hexadecyl hexadecanoate (palmityl palmitate),

- 0.4 g of hexadecyl eicosanoate (palmityl arachidate). * 11.5 g of triglycerides (palmitic 14.5%, stearic, 85.0%, peanut

0.5%),

* 3.9 g of diglycerides (palmitic 14.5%, stearic, 85.0%, arachidic 0.5%),

^* 2.1 g of monoglycerides (palmitic 14.5%, stearic, 85.0%, arachidic 0.5%).

EXAMPLE 7 - Preparation of Phytowax ® Olive 18 L 57

541 g of refined olive oil are poured into a flask with a tube, and then poured into said flask 456 g of 1-octadecanol in which 0.7 g of sodium has been dissolved. After creating an absolute vacuum of 5000 Pa in the flask, the mixture is heated to the temperature of 125 ° C. and the contents of the flask are stirred to homogenize the reaction medium. When this temperature is reached, the vacuum is cut and the atmosphere surrounding the reaction medium is pressurized with nitrogen. After 6 hours of reaction at 180 ° C., the flask is cooled.

The product obtained above undergoes the same treatment for removing the catalyst by washing with 2N sulfuric acid as the product of Example 1.2. After removing the washing water, 0.25% by weight of carbon is added to the product obtained. The product is then subjected to distillation at 230 ° C under a vacuum of 50 Pa for 2 hours. After cooling to 60 ° C, the product is filtered at this temperature on paper to remove the bleaching agent. The filtrate obtained is then hydrogenated under the same conditions as in Example 1.3. After filtration of the catalyst, a product is obtained having a melting point of 57 ° C. and an iodine index of less than 1. The product obtained after hydrogenation and filtration comprises (per 100 grams of product obtained):

* 78.0 grams of wax-ester, of which:

- 66.3 g of 1-octadecyl octadecanoate (stearyl stearate), MW = 536 Dalton,

11.3 g of 1-octadecyl hexadecanoate (stearyl palmitate),

- 0.4 g of 1-octadecyl eicosanoate (stearyl arachidate),

^* 6.9 grams of triglycerides (palmitic 14.5%, stearic 85.0%, arachidic 0.5%), ^* 5.0 grams of diglycerides (palmitic 14.5%, stearic 85.0%, arachidic 0, 5%), ^* 7.6 grams of monoglycerides (palmitic 14.5%, stearic 85.0%, arachidic 0.5%).

EXAMPLES 8 - Protocol for the preparation of Phytowax ® Ricin 16 L64

567 g of hydrogenated castor oil are poured into a tube flask, and then 433 g of 1-hexadecanol in which 1.5 g of sodium has been dissolved are added. After creating an absolute vacuum of 5000 Pa, the temperature rises to 125 ° C. On reaching this temperature, the atmosphere of the balloon is slightly pressurized with nitrogen. After 1 hour of reaction at 125 ° C, and cooled. After treatment of the product with 50 ml of 2N sulfuric acid, at 90 ° C. with stirring for 15 minutes, the mixture is left to settle. After drawing off the aqueous phase and washing with water to neutrality, the product is dried under reduced pressure at 95 ° C. After adding 0.25% of activated carbon, the residual 1-hexadecanol is distilled under vacuum (50 Pa). The distillation is stopped after 2 hours. The product is then filtered hot on paper under a nitrogen atmosphere. A yellowish product is obtained, having a melting point of 64 ° C.

The product obtained contains per 100 g:

^* 61, 0 of wax-esters, of which:

51.4 g of hexadecycle hydroxy 12-octadecanoate (palmityl hydroxystearate),

- 8.5 g of hexadecycle octadecanoate (palmityl stearate),

- 1.1 g of hexadecanoate hexadecycle (palmityl palmitate), ^* 9.8 g of triglycerides (palmitic 1.8%, stearic 13.8%, hydroxystearic 84.3%),

^* 2.1 g of monoglycerides (palmitic 1.8%, stearic 13.8%, hydroxystearic 84.3%) ^* 23.1% estolides (polyesters of hydroxystearic acid).

EXAMPLE 9 - Phytowax ® Castor oil preparation protocol 18 L 69

540 g of hydrogenated castor oil are poured into a tube flask, and then 460 g of 1-octadecanol in which 1.5 g of sodium has been dissolved are added. After creating an absolute vacuum of 5000 Pa, the temperature rises to 125 ° C. On reaching this temperature, the atmosphere of the balloon is slightly pressurized with nitrogen. After 1 hour of reaction at 125 ° C, and cooled. After treatment of the product with 50 ml of 2N sulfuric acid, at 90 ° C. with stirring for 15 minutes, the mixture is left to settle. After drawing off the aqueous phase and washing with neutral water, the product is dried under reduced pressure at 95 ° C. After adding 0.25% of activated carbon, the residual 1-octadecanol is distilled under vacuum (50 Pa). The distillation is stopped after 2 hours. The product is then filtered hot on paper under a nitrogen atmosphere. A yellowish product is obtained, having a melting point of 69 ° C.

The product obtained contains per 100 g:

^* 63.4 g of wax-esters, of which:

- 53.3 g of octadecyl hydroxy 12-octadecanoate (stearyl hydroxystearate),

- 9.0 g of octadecanoate octadecyl (stearyl stearate),

- 1.1 g of octadecyl hexadecanoate (stearyl palmitate),

^* 5.2 g of triglycerides (palmitic 1.8%, stearic 13.8%, hydroxystearic 84.3%),

^* 2.2 g of diglycerides (palmitic 1.8%, stearic 13.8%, hydroxystearic 84.3%),

^* 1.3 g of monoglycerides (palmitic 1.8%, stearic 13.8%, hydroxyxtearic 84.3%), ^* 26.0% estolides (polyesters of hydroxystearic acid). EXAMPLE 10 - Protocol for the preparation of Phytowax ® Ricin 22 L 73

493 g of hydrogenated castor oil are poured into a tube flask, and then 507 g of 1-docosanol in which 1.5 g of sodium has been dissolved are added. After creating an absolute vacuum of 5000 Pa, the temperature rises to 125 ° C. On reaching this temperature, the atmosphere of the balloon is slightly pressurized with nitrogen. After 1 hour of reaction at 125 ° C, and cooled. After treatment of the product with 50 ml of 2N sulfuric acid, at 90 ° C. with stirring for 15 minutes, the mixture is left to settle. After drawing off the aqueous phase and washing with water to neutrality, the product is dried under reduced pressure at 95 ° C. After adding 0.25% of activated carbon, the residual 1-docosanol is distilled under vacuum (50 Pa). The distillation is stopped after 2 hours. The product is then filtered hot on paper under a nitrogen atmosphere. A yellowish product is obtained, having a melting point of 73 ° C.

The product obtained contains per 100 g:

^* 48.5 g of wax-esters, of which:

- 36.2 g of docosanyl hydroxyl2-octadecanoate (behenyl hydroxystearate),

- 11.2 g of docosanyl octadecanoate (behenyl stearate),

- 1.1 g of docosanyl hexadecanoate (behenyl palmitate),

* 11.9 g of triglycerides (palmitic 1.8%, stearic 13.8%, hydroxyxtearic 84.3%),

^* 5.2 g of diglycerides (palmitic 1.8%, stearic 13.8%, hydroxyxtearic 84.3%),

* 1.9 g of monoglycerides (palmitic 1.8%, stearic 13.8%, hydroxyxtearic 84.3%), * 30.0% estolides (polyesters of hydroxystearic acid).

EXAMPLE 11 Interesterification using sweet almond, sunflower, rapeseed and hazelnut oil 11.1. - 709 g of refined sweet almond oil are poured into a flask with a tube, and then 291 g of 1-octanol and 1.4 g of sodium methylate are poured. After creating a vacuum of 5000 Pa absolute, the temperature rose to 100 ° C. Upon arrival at this temperature, the vacuum is cut and the balloon atmosphere is slightly pressurized with nitrogen. The temperature of the flask is then brought to 170 ° C. and maintained at this temperature for 6 hours. The flask is then cooled to room temperature.

11.2. - 670 g of refined oleic sunflower oil are poured into a flask with a tube. 330 g of 1 -decanol and 1.5 g of toluene-4 sulfonic acid are added. After creating an absolute vacuum of 5000 Pa, the temperature is raised to 150 ° C. On reaching this temperature, the atmosphere of the balloon is slightly pressurized with nitrogen. After 6 hours of stirring, the interesterification reaction has reached the desired level.

11.3. - 670 g of fully hydrogenated refined rapeseed oil are poured into a flask with a tube. 330 g of 1 -decanol in which 0.5 g of sodium has been dissolved are added. After creating an absolute vacuum of 5000 Pa, the temperature rises to 125 ° C. On reaching this temperature, the atmosphere of the balloon is slightly pressurized with nitrogen. After 30 minutes of stirring at 125 ° C., the interesterification reaction has reached the desired level.

11.4. - 670 g of refined hazelnut oil are poured into a flask with a tube. 330 g of 1 -decanol in which 0.5 g of sodium has been dissolved are added. After creating an absolute vacuum of 5000 Pa, the temperature rises to 125 ° C. On reaching this temperature, the atmosphere of the balloon is slightly pressurized with nitrogen. After 30 minutes of stirring at 125 ° C., the interesterification reaction has reached the desired level.

11.5. The products obtained above in 11.1 to 11.4 undergo the freezing treatment described in Example 2 to obtain the corresponding Cerester®.

EXAMPLE 12 Formulation of care cream

Manufacturing procedure

1) OnchauffeAà80 ° C

2) B is heated to 80 ° C

3) Pour 2) into 1) with stirring

4) We emulsify

5) At 50 ° C., C is added with stirring

6) We add D

7) At 30 ° C we add E EXAMPLE 13 Formulation of night cream

Manufacturing procedure:

1) In a tank, water is heated to 70 ° C., the Carbomer is sprinkled with vigorous stirring

2) We heat A to 80 ° C

3) B is heated to 80 ° C. with vigorous stirring

4) Pour 2) into 3) with stirring

5) C is added to 1) with stirring

6) 5) to 4) are added with stirring

7) At 35 ° C., E is added with stirring. EXAMPLE 14: Formulation of care cream

The operating mode is classic:

1) A is introduced into the stainless steel tank equipped with a turbo-emulsifier and an anchor stirring system.

2) It is heated to 75 ° C.

3) B is added beforehand homogenized while hot.

4) Let the fatty phase C precede. 5) The fatty phase C is added at 75 ° C. to the tank and the mixture is left to stir for 15 minutes with emulsifier and anchor stirring.

6) Allow to cool gradually to 45 ° C.

7) Then, we add D. 8) We add E then F.

9) H is added cold.

10) Add G.

This cream using 3 Phytowax ® shows a texture combining creaminess, softness and comfort on application.

The various tests carried out to arrive at such a formula have shown that:

- If Phytowax ® in C10 has a melting point close to the skin temperature, it is however too high to melt on the skin and therefore it tends to build up during application and promotes the formation of fluff.

- Phytowax ® having a melting point lower than the body temperature, bring to the cosmetic formulation a smooth spread without greasy touch, as well as a feeling of cooling on spreading. Phytowax ® in C6 in particular is particularly interesting because it gives a very characteristic softness to the spreading without greasy effect.

- Phytowax ® having a higher melting point than body temperature, will give the cosmetic formulation a thickening effect, without touching greasy spreading. This is how Phytowax ® 16L55 and 18L57 are more particularly interesting for giving structure at room temperature, while retaining a light and creamy texture.

- Tests have also shown that Phytowax ® advantageously replace all of the fatty alcohols conventionally used to give viscosity to formulations (fatty alcohols in C14, C16 or C18) and this all the more since they limit the soap effect, that is to say the appearance of white traces when spreading a cream. EXAMPLE 15 - Formulation of liquid foundation cream

This composition which involves two Phytowax ® allows to obtain a foundation having a very good spreading and a non-greasy texture:

- Phytowax ® 6L25 provides ease of spreading with the impression that the cream melts on the skin.

- Phytowax ® 16L55 thickens the cream and gives it texture, without touching residual grease, and without soap effect.

EXAMPLE 16: Formulation of compact foundation cream

This foundation using a Cerester ® and two Phytowax ® is very smooth when taken and gives a powdery effect on very characteristic application.

EXAMPLE 17 Care Formulation After Shampooing:

This cream using 2 Phytowax ® C10 and C12 provides fondant to the application.

It has also been shown that a Phytowax ® C10 or C12 promotes sheathing of the hair.

EXAMPLE 18 - Lipstick formulation

One Cerester ® and five different Phytowax ® are involved in the composition of this lipstick formulation. We see that the use of Phytowax ® structures the grapes (lipstick stick) and improves the crystal lattice.

The lipstick is soft and creamy on application. Phytowax ® improve mold release during manufacturing.

Several variations were made from this lipstick formula:

A first test consisted in replacing castor oil with a Castor Cerester ®: the test showed a marked improvement in the sensory profile of the lipstick, in terms of spreading, of slippery on application, as well than better stability at 50 °, after 24 h compared to the control.

Similarly, a test using Cerester® olive as a substitute for isononyl isononannoate showed very good properties of dispersion of the pigment mass.

This ability to disperse pigments has therefore been tested specifically:

- a test with organophilic TiO2 showed:

• With castor oil, a 60% dispersion

• With a Castor Cerester ®, a 75% dispersion. - a test with an organic pigment (DC Red7):

• With castor oil, a 20% dispersion • With a castor Cerester ®, a 28% dispersion.

With regard to the structure of the crystal lattice, it has been found that by completely replacing beeswax and ozokerite in the lipstick formula, the results were not satisfactory, the lipstick n 'having no adequate structure to be removed from the mold.

We therefore replaced the 10% beeswax used in the basic formula with 10% Phytowax ® from Castor oil distributed between 16L64, 18L69 and 22L73. This test gave a consistency and a body equivalent to that of the basic formula with beeswax. But above all, this test showed that this sample made it possible to obtain better heat stability, the test containing Phytowax® exuding less at 42 ° C and 50 ° C than the control.

On the strength of this result, partial wax replacement tests with Phytowax ® from Ricin 22L73 were made. It appeared that a replacement of around 30% of the quantities of traditional waxes with Phytowax ® from Ricin 22L73 had the effect of obtaining an improvement of around 20% in the resistance of the lipstick and therefore of the crystal structure. This property thus makes it possible to reduce the amount of wax used or to equal quantity to have a better resistance of the lipstick.

The Phytowax ® having a melting point below the body temperature, used in the formulas confirmed their positive effect on the quality of the spreading of the lipstick, creamy without greasy touch, with spreading facilitated by the mixture of said Phytowax ®.

Claims

1. Formulation comprising non-greasy emolients based on wax-esters, the constituents of which have a molecular weight of less than 600 Dalton, preferably less than 450, comprising:

. residual triglycerides, diglycerides and monoglycerides originating from said interesterification, characterized in that it comprises at least two said wax-esters of which at least one said wax-ester is a hydrogenated wax-ester comprising:

. hydrogenated fatty acid esters originating from the interesterification by said fatty alcohol, triglycerides of an oil of natural origin preferably of vegetable origin, followed by the hydrogenation of said esters, and

2. Formulation according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises at least two said different hydrogenated ester waxes.

! 3. Formulation according to claim 2, characterized in that the two said hydrogenated ester waxes have different melting points of at least 10 ° C and said melting points are between 23 and 75 ° C.

4. Formulation according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that at least one said wax-ester has a melting temperature below 35 ° C, preferably less than 30 ° C, and at least one said wax-ester hydrogenated has a melting temperature above 40 ° C, preferably above 45 ° C.

5. Formulation according to claim 5, characterized in that it comprises at least a first wax-ester which is a non-hydrogenated wax-ester and at least a second wax-ester which is a hydrogenated wax-ester.

6. Formulation according to claim 5, characterized in that it comprises at least a first wax-ester which is a non-hydrogenated wax-ester liquid at room temperature and at least a second wax-ester which is a solid hydrogenated wax-ester at room temperature.

7. Formulation according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that said fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters comprise:

. a C11 to C21 hydrocarbon radical, preferably C15 to C21, corresponding to a decarboxylated residue of said acid.

8. Formulation according to claim 7, characterized in that it comprises:

- at least one said first hydrogenated wax-ester, the said hydrogenated esters of which comprise one C1 to C8 alkyl radical, preferably C6 to C8 originating from the said saturated fatty alcohol, and - at least one said second hydrogenated wax-ester, the said hydrogenated esters of which include the said radial C10 to C22 alkyl from said saturated fatty alcohol.

9. Formulation according to claim 7, characterized in that it comprises:

at least one said first non-hydrogenated wax-ester liquid at room temperature of which said non-hydrogenated esters comprise a C1-C6 alkyl radical.

C10, preferably C6 to C10, and

10. Formulation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said wax-esters come from olive oil, castor oil, sweet almond oil, borage oil, oil hazelnut, sunflower oil, rapeseed oil, soybean oil or apricot oil.

11. Formulation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said wax-esters comprise a mixture of at least two said esters chosen from C6 to C22 alkyl stearate, C 6 to C22 alkyl palmitate, C6 to C22 alkyl arachidate, and C6 to C22 alkyl hydroxistearate.

12. Formulation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least 3, preferably at least 5, called hydrogenated ester waxes.

13. Formulation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises from 0.5 to 15% by weight of said wax-esters.

14. Cosmetic formulation useful in particular as a care cream, foundation cream, after-shampoo care lotion, coating for lip coloring, characterized in that it comprises a formulation according to one of the preceding claims.