EP1313435A1 - Bleaching composition for dyed keratinous fibres - Google Patents
Bleaching composition for dyed keratinous fibresInfo
- Publication number
- EP1313435A1 EP1313435A1 EP01965327A EP01965327A EP1313435A1 EP 1313435 A1 EP1313435 A1 EP 1313435A1 EP 01965327 A EP01965327 A EP 01965327A EP 01965327 A EP01965327 A EP 01965327A EP 1313435 A1 EP1313435 A1 EP 1313435A1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- radical
- acid
- alkyl
- composition
- salts
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
Links
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 126
- 238000004061 bleaching Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 41
- 239000000982 direct dye Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 74
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 73
- 239000000975 dye Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 68
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 67
- 230000003647 oxidation Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 46
- 238000007254 oxidation reaction Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 46
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 17
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 15
- -1 alkaline earth Substances 0.000 claims description 136
- 125000000217 alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 59
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 claims description 56
- 125000004435 hydrogen atom Chemical group [H]* 0.000 claims description 56
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 claims description 47
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 claims description 40
- 125000002091 cationic group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 35
- 229910052757 nitrogen Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 33
- 102000011782 Keratins Human genes 0.000 claims description 29
- 108010076876 Keratins Proteins 0.000 claims description 29
- 230000001590 oxidative effect Effects 0.000 claims description 29
- KPGXRSRHYNQIFN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-oxoglutaric acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CCC(=O)C(O)=O KPGXRSRHYNQIFN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 26
- IJGRMHOSHXDMSA-UHFFFAOYSA-N Atomic nitrogen Chemical compound N#N IJGRMHOSHXDMSA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 22
- 239000002585 base Substances 0.000 claims description 22
- 125000005843 halogen group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 20
- 238000002845 discoloration Methods 0.000 claims description 19
- 230000002378 acidificating effect Effects 0.000 claims description 17
- 150000001450 anions Chemical class 0.000 claims description 17
- 125000002924 primary amino group Chemical group [H]N([H])* 0.000 claims description 17
- 125000004433 nitrogen atom Chemical group N* 0.000 claims description 16
- 239000000243 solution Substances 0.000 claims description 16
- 239000003638 chemical reducing agent Substances 0.000 claims description 15
- BUUPQKDIAURBJP-UHFFFAOYSA-N sulfinic acid Chemical compound OS=O BUUPQKDIAURBJP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 15
- MHAJPDPJQMAIIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Hydrogen peroxide Chemical compound OO MHAJPDPJQMAIIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 14
- 125000003545 alkoxy group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 14
- 229920002678 cellulose Polymers 0.000 claims description 14
- 229910052739 hydrogen Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 14
- HWXBTNAVRSUOJR-UHFFFAOYSA-N alpha-hydroxyglutaric acid Natural products OC(=O)C(O)CCC(O)=O HWXBTNAVRSUOJR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 13
- 229940009533 alpha-ketoglutaric acid Drugs 0.000 claims description 13
- 125000000623 heterocyclic group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 13
- 239000001257 hydrogen Substances 0.000 claims description 13
- 125000001997 phenyl group Chemical group [H]C1=C([H])C([H])=C(*)C([H])=C1[H] 0.000 claims description 13
- WKBOTKDWSSQWDR-UHFFFAOYSA-N Bromine atom Chemical group [Br] WKBOTKDWSSQWDR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 12
- PXGOKWXKJXAPGV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Fluorine Chemical compound FF PXGOKWXKJXAPGV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 12
- 150000007513 acids Chemical class 0.000 claims description 12
- 239000011737 fluorine Substances 0.000 claims description 12
- 229910052731 fluorine Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 12
- 239000007800 oxidant agent Substances 0.000 claims description 12
- 229910052801 chlorine Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 11
- 125000002768 hydroxyalkyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 11
- 229910052760 oxygen Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 11
- 239000001301 oxygen Substances 0.000 claims description 11
- ZCYVEMRRCGMTRW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 7553-56-2 Chemical compound [I] ZCYVEMRRCGMTRW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 10
- ZAMOUSCENKQFHK-UHFFFAOYSA-N Chlorine atom Chemical compound [Cl] ZAMOUSCENKQFHK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 10
- UFHFLCQGNIYNRP-UHFFFAOYSA-N Hydrogen Chemical compound [H][H] UFHFLCQGNIYNRP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 10
- NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-N Phosphoric acid Chemical compound OP(O)(O)=O NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 10
- CIUQDSCDWFSTQR-UHFFFAOYSA-N [C]1=CC=CC=C1 Chemical compound [C]1=CC=CC=C1 CIUQDSCDWFSTQR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 10
- GDTBXPJZTBHREO-UHFFFAOYSA-N bromine Substances BrBr GDTBXPJZTBHREO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 10
- 229910052794 bromium Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 10
- 239000000460 chlorine Substances 0.000 claims description 10
- 229910052740 iodine Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 10
- 239000011630 iodine Substances 0.000 claims description 10
- 125000003277 amino group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 9
- 125000002887 hydroxy group Chemical group [H]O* 0.000 claims description 9
- 239000011734 sodium Substances 0.000 claims description 9
- 229910052708 sodium Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 9
- 229910052717 sulfur Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 9
- DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M Ilexoside XXIX Chemical compound C[C@@H]1CC[C@@]2(CC[C@@]3(C(=CC[C@H]4[C@]3(CC[C@@H]5[C@@]4(CC[C@@H](C5(C)C)OS(=O)(=O)[O-])C)C)[C@@H]2[C@]1(C)O)C)C(=O)O[C@H]6[C@@H]([C@H]([C@@H]([C@H](O6)CO)O)O)O.[Na+] DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M 0.000 claims description 8
- QVGXLLKOCUKJST-UHFFFAOYSA-N atomic oxygen Chemical compound [O] QVGXLLKOCUKJST-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 8
- 125000005842 heteroatom Chemical group 0.000 claims description 8
- QJGQUHMNIGDVPM-UHFFFAOYSA-N nitrogen group Chemical group [N] QJGQUHMNIGDVPM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 8
- 239000002562 thickening agent Substances 0.000 claims description 8
- NINIDFKCEFEMDL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Sulfur Chemical compound [S] NINIDFKCEFEMDL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 7
- 239000001913 cellulose Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- 229910052500 inorganic mineral Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 7
- 235000010755 mineral Nutrition 0.000 claims description 7
- 230000008569 process Effects 0.000 claims description 7
- 239000011593 sulfur Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- MUBZPKHOEPUJKR-UHFFFAOYSA-N Oxalic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C(O)=O MUBZPKHOEPUJKR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N citric acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CC(O)(C(O)=O)CC(O)=O KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000011707 mineral Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000002453 shampoo Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 125000004429 atom Chemical group 0.000 claims description 5
- 150000001735 carboxylic acids Chemical class 0.000 claims description 5
- 150000007522 mineralic acids Chemical class 0.000 claims description 5
- 125000000449 nitro group Chemical group [O-][N+](*)=O 0.000 claims description 5
- 150000007524 organic acids Chemical class 0.000 claims description 5
- 235000011007 phosphoric acid Nutrition 0.000 claims description 5
- XWGJFPHUCFXLBL-UHFFFAOYSA-M rongalite Chemical group [Na+].OCS([O-])=O XWGJFPHUCFXLBL-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 5
- QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ammonia Chemical compound N QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- FEWJPZIEWOKRBE-JCYAYHJZSA-N Dextrotartaric acid Chemical compound OC(=O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)C(O)=O FEWJPZIEWOKRBE-JCYAYHJZSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- VEXZGXHMUGYJMC-UHFFFAOYSA-N Hydrochloric acid Chemical compound Cl VEXZGXHMUGYJMC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- LCTONWCANYUPML-UHFFFAOYSA-N Pyruvic acid Chemical compound CC(=O)C(O)=O LCTONWCANYUPML-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000002535 acidifier Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000003513 alkali Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- MDFFNEOEWAXZRQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N aminyl Chemical compound [NH2] MDFFNEOEWAXZRQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000002610 basifying agent Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 229910052799 carbon Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 4
- 125000004093 cyano group Chemical group *C#N 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000011161 development Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- HHLFWLYXYJOTON-UHFFFAOYSA-N glyoxylic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C=O HHLFWLYXYJOTON-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- JVTAAEKCZFNVCJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N lactic acid Chemical compound CC(O)C(O)=O JVTAAEKCZFNVCJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 125000004805 propylene group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([*:1])C([H])([H])[*:2] 0.000 claims description 4
- 125000000626 sulfinic acid group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 4
- 150000003455 sulfinic acids Chemical class 0.000 claims description 4
- 125000004434 sulfur atom Chemical group 0.000 claims description 4
- VOPWNXZWBYDODV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Chlorodifluoromethane Chemical compound FC(F)Cl VOPWNXZWBYDODV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- MYMOFIZGZYHOMD-UHFFFAOYSA-N Dioxygen Chemical compound O=O MYMOFIZGZYHOMD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- HCHKCACWOHOZIP-UHFFFAOYSA-N Zinc Chemical compound [Zn] HCHKCACWOHOZIP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000006071 cream Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000000499 gel Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- TUJKJAMUKRIRHC-UHFFFAOYSA-N hydroxyl Chemical compound [OH] TUJKJAMUKRIRHC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- SBGKURINHGJRFN-UHFFFAOYSA-N hydroxymethanesulfinic acid Chemical compound OCS(O)=O SBGKURINHGJRFN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000000813 microbial effect Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000003960 organic solvent Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 229910052725 zinc Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000011701 zinc Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- DBVJJBKOTRCVKF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Etidronic acid Chemical compound OP(=O)(O)C(O)(C)P(O)(O)=O DBVJJBKOTRCVKF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- KWYUFKZDYYNOTN-UHFFFAOYSA-M Potassium hydroxide Chemical class [OH-].[K+] KWYUFKZDYYNOTN-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 2
- FEWJPZIEWOKRBE-UHFFFAOYSA-N Tartaric acid Natural products [H+].[H+].[O-]C(=O)C(O)C(O)C([O-])=O FEWJPZIEWOKRBE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- GSEJCLTVZPLZKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Triethanolamine Chemical class OCCN(CCO)CCO GSEJCLTVZPLZKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 229910021529 ammonia Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
- 150000004649 carbonic acid derivatives Chemical class 0.000 claims description 2
- 125000002915 carbonyl group Chemical group [*:2]C([*:1])=O 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000015165 citric acid Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000000839 emulsion Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000006260 foam Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000004310 lactic acid Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000014655 lactic acid Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000005985 organic acids Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000006408 oxalic acid Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000011118 potassium hydroxide Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 229940107700 pyruvic acid Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000011121 sodium hydroxide Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 150000003460 sulfonic acids Chemical class 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000011975 tartaric acid Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000002906 tartaric acid Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000013311 vegetables Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000012736 aqueous medium Substances 0.000 claims 2
- 244000007835 Cyamopsis tetragonoloba Species 0.000 claims 1
- 150000002171 ethylene diamines Chemical class 0.000 claims 1
- 229910052736 halogen Inorganic materials 0.000 claims 1
- 150000002367 halogens Chemical class 0.000 claims 1
- 230000002829 reductive effect Effects 0.000 claims 1
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 claims 1
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 description 86
- 239000000178 monomer Substances 0.000 description 42
- 239000000047 product Substances 0.000 description 39
- 150000003254 radicals Chemical class 0.000 description 39
- 229920001577 copolymer Chemical class 0.000 description 31
- NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-Propenoic acid Natural products OC(=O)C=C NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 20
- 235000010980 cellulose Nutrition 0.000 description 13
- SMZOUWXMTYCWNB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-(2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl)ethanamine Chemical compound COC1=CC=C(C)C=C1CCN SMZOUWXMTYCWNB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 12
- 229920000663 Hydroxyethyl cellulose Polymers 0.000 description 12
- 235000019447 hydroxyethyl cellulose Nutrition 0.000 description 12
- 125000000129 anionic group Chemical group 0.000 description 11
- 238000004040 coloring Methods 0.000 description 11
- 150000002148 esters Chemical class 0.000 description 11
- LQNUZADURLCDLV-UHFFFAOYSA-N nitrobenzene Substances [O-][N+](=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 LQNUZADURLCDLV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 11
- VEXZGXHMUGYJMC-UHFFFAOYSA-M Chloride anion Chemical compound [Cl-] VEXZGXHMUGYJMC-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 10
- 241000282372 Panthera onca Species 0.000 description 10
- 229920000768 polyamine Polymers 0.000 description 9
- 229920001223 polyethylene glycol Polymers 0.000 description 9
- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 description 9
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 9
- HRPVXLWXLXDGHG-UHFFFAOYSA-N Acrylamide Chemical compound NC(=O)C=C HRPVXLWXLXDGHG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
- CIWBSHSKHKDKBQ-JLAZNSOCSA-N Ascorbic acid Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1OC(=O)C(O)=C1O CIWBSHSKHKDKBQ-JLAZNSOCSA-N 0.000 description 8
- 244000303965 Cyamopsis psoralioides Species 0.000 description 8
- CERQOIWHTDAKMF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Methacrylic acid Chemical compound CC(=C)C(O)=O CERQOIWHTDAKMF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
- WHNWPMSKXPGLAX-UHFFFAOYSA-N N-Vinyl-2-pyrrolidone Chemical compound C=CN1CCCC1=O WHNWPMSKXPGLAX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
- 229920006317 cationic polymer Polymers 0.000 description 8
- 125000001495 ethyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 8
- 230000002209 hydrophobic effect Effects 0.000 description 8
- UHOVQNZJYSORNB-UHFFFAOYSA-N monobenzene Natural products C1=CC=CC=C1 UHOVQNZJYSORNB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
- 229920000570 polyether Polymers 0.000 description 8
- 229920002635 polyurethane Polymers 0.000 description 8
- 239000004814 polyurethane Substances 0.000 description 8
- IAYPIBMASNFSPL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylene oxide Chemical compound C1CO1 IAYPIBMASNFSPL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 7
- 239000002202 Polyethylene glycol Substances 0.000 description 7
- 229940048053 acrylate Drugs 0.000 description 7
- 125000003118 aryl group Chemical group 0.000 description 7
- 125000003178 carboxy group Chemical group [H]OC(*)=O 0.000 description 7
- 150000001732 carboxylic acid derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 7
- FQPSGWSUVKBHSU-UHFFFAOYSA-N methacrylamide Chemical class CC(=C)C(N)=O FQPSGWSUVKBHSU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 7
- 125000002496 methyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 7
- 229920001897 terpolymer Polymers 0.000 description 7
- AZQWKYJCGOJGHM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1,4-benzoquinone Chemical compound O=C1C=CC(=O)C=C1 AZQWKYJCGOJGHM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-M Acetate Chemical compound CC([O-])=O QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 6
- NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-M Acrylate Chemical compound [O-]C(=O)C=C NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 6
- RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N Diethyl ether Chemical compound CCOCC RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N EtOH Substances CCO LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 239000004721 Polyphenylene oxide Substances 0.000 description 6
- DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Propylene glycol Chemical compound CC(O)CO DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 150000001412 amines Chemical class 0.000 description 6
- 239000007864 aqueous solution Substances 0.000 description 6
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 description 6
- 125000005395 methacrylic acid group Chemical group 0.000 description 6
- GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- UCWBKJOCRGQBNW-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium;hydroxymethanesulfinate;dihydrate Chemical compound O.O.[Na+].OCS([O-])=O UCWBKJOCRGQBNW-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 6
- BOKGTLAJQHTOKE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene Chemical compound C1=CC=C2C(O)=CC=CC2=C1O BOKGTLAJQHTOKE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- CERQOIWHTDAKMF-UHFFFAOYSA-M Methacrylate Chemical group CC(=C)C([O-])=O CERQOIWHTDAKMF-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 5
- 150000003926 acrylamides Chemical class 0.000 description 5
- 239000002671 adjuvant Substances 0.000 description 5
- 239000003431 cross linking reagent Substances 0.000 description 5
- 235000014113 dietary fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 description 5
- 239000006185 dispersion Substances 0.000 description 5
- 239000000194 fatty acid Substances 0.000 description 5
- 229930195729 fatty acid Natural products 0.000 description 5
- 229920001519 homopolymer Polymers 0.000 description 5
- 150000002734 metacrylic acid derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 5
- JZMJDSHXVKJFKW-UHFFFAOYSA-M methyl sulfate(1-) Chemical compound COS([O-])(=O)=O JZMJDSHXVKJFKW-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 5
- 125000001453 quaternary ammonium group Chemical group 0.000 description 5
- MYRTYDVEIRVNKP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1,2-Divinylbenzene Chemical compound C=CC1=CC=CC=C1C=C MYRTYDVEIRVNKP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- JKNCOURZONDCGV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-(dimethylamino)ethyl 2-methylprop-2-enoate Chemical compound CN(C)CCOC(=O)C(C)=C JKNCOURZONDCGV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- PLIKAWJENQZMHA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 4-aminophenol Chemical compound NC1=CC=C(O)C=C1 PLIKAWJENQZMHA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- CPELXLSAUQHCOX-UHFFFAOYSA-M Bromide Chemical compound [Br-] CPELXLSAUQHCOX-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 4
- 239000004215 Carbon black (E152) Substances 0.000 description 4
- 229920001661 Chitosan Polymers 0.000 description 4
- 239000005977 Ethylene Substances 0.000 description 4
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- OFOBLEOULBTSOW-UHFFFAOYSA-N Malonic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CC(O)=O OFOBLEOULBTSOW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- BAPJBEWLBFYGME-UHFFFAOYSA-N Methyl acrylate Chemical compound COC(=O)C=C BAPJBEWLBFYGME-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 229920002472 Starch Polymers 0.000 description 4
- 150000001252 acrylic acid derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 4
- 125000005250 alkyl acrylate group Chemical group 0.000 description 4
- 125000002877 alkyl aryl group Chemical group 0.000 description 4
- 125000002947 alkylene group Chemical group 0.000 description 4
- 239000003945 anionic surfactant Substances 0.000 description 4
- 125000003710 aryl alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 4
- 235000010323 ascorbic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 4
- 229960005070 ascorbic acid Drugs 0.000 description 4
- 239000011668 ascorbic acid Substances 0.000 description 4
- 239000007844 bleaching agent Substances 0.000 description 4
- 235000019864 coconut oil Nutrition 0.000 description 4
- 239000003240 coconut oil Chemical class 0.000 description 4
- 239000000084 colloidal system Substances 0.000 description 4
- 125000000118 dimethyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 4
- 229930195733 hydrocarbon Natural products 0.000 description 4
- WCYWZMWISLQXQU-UHFFFAOYSA-N methyl Chemical compound [CH3] WCYWZMWISLQXQU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 230000007935 neutral effect Effects 0.000 description 4
- 239000002736 nonionic surfactant Substances 0.000 description 4
- PNJWIWWMYCMZRO-UHFFFAOYSA-N pent‐4‐en‐2‐one Natural products CC(=O)CC=C PNJWIWWMYCMZRO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 229920001281 polyalkylene Polymers 0.000 description 4
- 229910052700 potassium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 4
- 150000003222 pyridines Chemical class 0.000 description 4
- 235000019698 starch Nutrition 0.000 description 4
- BDHFUVZGWQCTTF-UHFFFAOYSA-M sulfonate Chemical compound [O-]S(=O)=O BDHFUVZGWQCTTF-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 4
- 229920002554 vinyl polymer Polymers 0.000 description 4
- RBIIKVXVYVANCQ-CUWPLCDZSA-N (2s,4s,5s)-5-amino-n-(3-amino-2,2-dimethyl-3-oxopropyl)-6-[4-(2-chlorophenyl)-2,2-dimethyl-5-oxopiperazin-1-yl]-4-hydroxy-2-propan-2-ylhexanamide Chemical compound C1C(C)(C)N(C[C@H](N)[C@@H](O)C[C@@H](C(C)C)C(=O)NCC(C)(C)C(N)=O)CC(=O)N1C1=CC=CC=C1Cl RBIIKVXVYVANCQ-CUWPLCDZSA-N 0.000 description 3
- CBCKQZAAMUWICA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1,4-phenylenediamine Chemical compound NC1=CC=C(N)C=C1 CBCKQZAAMUWICA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- HZAXFHJVJLSVMW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-Aminoethan-1-ol Chemical compound NCCO HZAXFHJVJLSVMW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- MXRGSJAOLKBZLU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3-ethenylazepan-2-one Chemical compound C=CC1CCCCNC1=O MXRGSJAOLKBZLU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- ATVJXMYDOSMEPO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3-prop-2-enoxyprop-1-ene Chemical group C=CCOCC=C ATVJXMYDOSMEPO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 239000013531 ACULYN rheology modifier Substances 0.000 description 3
- QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-N Acetic acid Chemical compound CC(O)=O QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
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- CSNFMBGHUOSBFU-UHFFFAOYSA-N pyrimidine-2,4,5-triamine Chemical compound NC1=NC=C(N)C(N)=N1 CSNFMBGHUOSBFU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- VRDAELYOGRCZQD-NFLRKZIHSA-M sodium;4-[(2z)-2-[(5e)-5-[(2,4-dimethylphenyl)hydrazinylidene]-4,6-dioxocyclohex-2-en-1-ylidene]hydrazinyl]benzenesulfonate Chemical compound [Na+].CC1=CC(C)=CC=C1N\N=C(/C(=O)C=C\1)C(=O)C/1=N\NC1=CC=C(S([O-])(=O)=O)C=C1 VRDAELYOGRCZQD-NFLRKZIHSA-M 0.000 description 1
- FTUYQIPAPWPHNC-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium;4-[[4-[benzyl(ethyl)amino]phenyl]-[4-[benzyl(ethyl)azaniumylidene]cyclohexa-2,5-dien-1-ylidene]methyl]benzene-1,3-disulfonate Chemical compound [Na+].C=1C=C(C(=C2C=CC(C=C2)=[N+](CC)CC=2C=CC=CC=2)C=2C(=CC(=CC=2)S([O-])(=O)=O)S([O-])(=O)=O)C=CC=1N(CC)CC1=CC=CC=C1 FTUYQIPAPWPHNC-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
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- LJFWQNJLLOFIJK-UHFFFAOYSA-N solvent violet 13 Chemical compound C1=CC(C)=CC=C1NC1=CC=C(O)C2=C1C(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1C2=O LJFWQNJLLOFIJK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 150000003467 sulfuric acid derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000003760 tallow Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000003892 tartrate salts Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- UJMBCXLDXJUMFB-GLCFPVLVSA-K tartrazine Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[O-]C(=O)C1=NN(C=2C=CC(=CC=2)S([O-])(=O)=O)C(=O)C1\N=N\C1=CC=C(S([O-])(=O)=O)C=C1 UJMBCXLDXJUMFB-GLCFPVLVSA-K 0.000 description 1
- 235000012756 tartrazine Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000004149 tartrazine Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 125000005207 tetraalkylammonium group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 150000003568 thioethers Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- UIERETOOQGIECD-ONEGZZNKSA-N tiglic acid Chemical compound C\C=C(/C)C(O)=O UIERETOOQGIECD-ONEGZZNKSA-N 0.000 description 1
- HNONEKILPDHFOL-UHFFFAOYSA-M tolonium chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].C1=C(C)C(N)=CC2=[S+]C3=CC(N(C)C)=CC=C3N=C21 HNONEKILPDHFOL-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 235000010487 tragacanth Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000000196 tragacanth Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940116362 tragacanth Drugs 0.000 description 1
- LDHQCZJRKDOVOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N trans-crotonic acid Natural products CC=CC(O)=O LDHQCZJRKDOVOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000005208 trialkylammonium group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- DGXNWWJYEMQHED-UHFFFAOYSA-N trimethyl-(4-methyl-3-oxopent-4-enyl)azanium Chemical compound CC(=C)C(=O)CC[N+](C)(C)C DGXNWWJYEMQHED-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- UZNHKBFIBYXPDV-UHFFFAOYSA-N trimethyl-[3-(2-methylprop-2-enoylamino)propyl]azanium;chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].CC(=C)C(=O)NCCC[N+](C)(C)C UZNHKBFIBYXPDV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- OEIXGLMQZVLOQX-UHFFFAOYSA-N trimethyl-[3-(prop-2-enoylamino)propyl]azanium;chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].C[N+](C)(C)CCCNC(=O)C=C OEIXGLMQZVLOQX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000002948 undecyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 235000015112 vegetable and seed oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000008158 vegetable oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- LLWJPGAKXJBKKA-UHFFFAOYSA-N victoria blue B Chemical compound [Cl-].C1=CC(N(C)C)=CC=C1C(C=1C=CC(=CC=1)N(C)C)=C(C=C1)C2=CC=CC=C2C1=[NH+]C1=CC=CC=C1 LLWJPGAKXJBKKA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- ROVRRJSRRSGUOL-UHFFFAOYSA-N victoria blue bo Chemical compound [Cl-].C12=CC=CC=C2C(NCC)=CC=C1C(C=1C=CC(=CC=1)N(CC)CC)=C1C=CC(=[N+](CC)CC)C=C1 ROVRRJSRRSGUOL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- UHVMMEOXYDMDKI-JKYCWFKZSA-L zinc;1-(5-cyanopyridin-2-yl)-3-[(1s,2s)-2-(6-fluoro-2-hydroxy-3-propanoylphenyl)cyclopropyl]urea;diacetate Chemical compound [Zn+2].CC([O-])=O.CC([O-])=O.CCC(=O)C1=CC=C(F)C([C@H]2[C@H](C2)NC(=O)NC=2N=CC(=CC=2)C#N)=C1O UHVMMEOXYDMDKI-JKYCWFKZSA-L 0.000 description 1
Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/08—Preparations for bleaching the hair
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
- A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
Definitions
- the subject of the invention is a composition for bleaching keratin fibers dyed with oxidation dyes and / or direct dyes, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising in a medium suitable for bleaching at acid pH, a combination based on at least one sulfinic acid and at least one alpha-oxocarboxylic acid and / or their respective cosmetically acceptable salts.
- the invention also relates to devices with several compartments for dyeing and bleaching said fibers and the bleaching process using this composition.
- oxidation dyes or "oxidation coloring” is a permanent coloring; it comprises, as oxidation dyes, the oxidation dye precursors and the couplers.
- oxidation coloring precursors are initially colorless or weakly colored compounds which develop their dyeing power within the hair in the presence of oxidizing agents added at the time of use, by conducting to the formation of colored and coloring compounds.
- the formation of these colored and coloring compounds results either from an oxidative condensation of the "oxidation bases” on themselves, or from an oxidative condensation of the "oxidation bases” on color-modifying compounds commonly called “ couplers "and generally present in the dye compositions used in oxidation dyeing.
- the oxidation bases are in particular ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols, and heterocyclic bases.
- the couplers are chosen in particular from aromatic metadiamines, meta-aminophenols, metadiphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds.
- direct dyes are added to them.
- the dyeing carried out with direct dyes gives a semi-permanent or temporary coloring; the direct dyes bring to the natural coloring of the hair, a more or less marked color modification possibly resistant to several shampoos.
- These direct dyes can be used without an oxidizing agent.
- the direct dyes conventionally used are chosen in particular from benzene nitro direct dyes, azo direct dyes, quinone and in particular anthraquinone direct dyes, azine direct dyes, triarylmethane direct dyes, indoamine direct dyes and natural direct dyes.
- Said cationic direct dyes can be used in an oxidizing medium.
- the aim is to obtain a lightening coloring.
- the lightening coloration is implemented by applying to the hair the extemporaneous mixture of the cationic direct dye and an oxidant and makes it possible in particular to obtain, by lightening the melanin of the hair, an advantageous effect such as a solid color in the gray hair or bring out the color in the case of naturally pigmented hair.
- the oxidizing agents conventionally used are hydrogen peroxide or compounds capable of producing hydrogen peroxide by hydrolysis, such as urea peroxide or persalts such as perborates, percarbonates and persulfates, hydrogen peroxide and persulfates being particularly preferred.
- German patent No. 1,151,242 the use of hydroxymethanesulfinic acid at a pH between 7 and 9, to bleach colored hair.
- a process for bleaching dyed keratin fibers is also described in US Pat. No. 3,892,845 and consists in applying to the fibers an aqueous composition comprising the combination of two types of reducers, a reducer of the dye and a reducer of the covalent bonds disulfide of keratin.
- the dye reducer is a hydroxymethanesulfinate or a hydrosulfite of zinc, potassium, sodium or calcium
- the keratin reducer is in particular thioglycolic acid, a bisulfate or a bisulfite of potassium or sodium, potassium bisulfide, thiourea, or certain phosphorous compounds.
- the bleaching technology by reduction to acid pH has the advantage of less sensitizing the hair fiber and of not lightening the natural base of the hair.
- the first object of the invention is therefore a composition for bleaching keratin fibers dyed with oxidation dyes and / or direct dyes, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising at least one dye reducer in a medium.
- aqueous suitable for bleaching at acid pH and characterized in that the said reducing agent is a system associating (i) at least one sulfinic acid or one of their cosmetically acceptable salts with (ii) at least one alpha-oxocarboxylic acid or one of their cosmetically acceptable salts. Said discoloration may be partial or total.
- compositions intended for bleaching the hair using reducing agents are mainly in the form of ready-to-use compositions consisting of anhydrous products (powders) or of creams or gels containing the reducing agent (s) than the mixed at the time of use with an aqueous composition containing a pH agent.
- Discoloration compositions also occur in the form of aqueous ready-to-use compositions containing the reducing agent (s) at the appropriate pH.
- the composition according to the invention is a ready-to-use composition.
- ready-to-use composition means, within the meaning of the invention, the composition intended to be applied as it is to keratin fibers, that is to say that it can be stored as it is before use or result from the extemporaneous mixture of two or more compositions.
- hydroxymethanesulfinic acid it is preferred to use hydroxymethanesulfinic acid.
- the cosmetically acceptable salts of the sulfinic acids according to the invention can be chosen from alkali (Na, K), alkaline earth (Ca) or zinc sulfinates.
- Sodium hydroxymethanesulfinate is more particularly preferred according to the invention.
- the sulfinic acid (s) or their salts may be present in the composition in proportions of between 0.01 and 20% and preferably between 0.1 and 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
- the alpha-oxocarboxylic acids can be chosen from oxalic acid, glyoxalic acid, pyruvic acid and preferably alpha-ketoglutaric acid.
- the cosmetically acceptable salts of these acids are in particular, for example alkaline or alkaline earth.
- the bu ' alpha-oxocarboxylic acids or their salts may be present in the composition in proportions of between 0.01 and 15% and preferably between 0.1 and 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
- a subject of the invention is also packaging "kits" or devices with several compartments intended for (i) dyeing and then (ii) bleaching of keratin fibers dyed with oxidation dyes and / or direct dyes, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, characterized in that they comprise a first compartment comprising a composition for the oxidizing dyeing or the non-oxidizing dyeing of said fibers, and in a second compartment a composition for the reductive bleaching of said fibers colored fibers comprising the bleaching system described above at acidic pH.
- the invention also relates to a process for bleaching keratin fibers dyed with oxidation dyes and / or direct dyes, and in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, using a bleaching composition as described above .
- the oxidizing dye can be a conventional oxidation dye, a direct dye or a lightening dye.
- the fibers are dyed beforehand with at least one oxidation dye and preferably with at least one oxidation base in the presence of an oxidant.
- an oxidation base preferably chosen from paraphenylene diamine and its substituted derivatives on a amino functions and / or on the benzene nucleus, para-aminophenol and its substituted derivatives on the amine functions and / or on the benzene nucleus, double bases, ortho-aminophenols, orthophenylenediamines and heterocyclic bases.
- heterocyclic bases which can be used as the oxidation base according to the invention, mention may more particularly be made of pyridine derivatives, pyriidine derivatives, pyrazole derivatives. All these compounds can be used in free form or in the form of their addition salts with an acid. We can notably cite:
- R-i represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical in C C, monohydroxyalkyle in
- CC 4l polyhydroxyalkyl C 2 -C 4 alkoxy (CC 4 ) alkyl (CrC 4 ), alkyl CC 4 substituted by a nitrogen group, phenyl or 4'-aminophenyl;
- R 2 represents a hydrogen atom, a CC 4 alkyl radical, a monohydroxyalkyl radical
- R 3 represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom such as a chlorine atom, an alkyl radical CC, sulfo, carboxy, monohydroxyalkyl CC 4 hydroxyalkoxy CrC 4l acetylamino CC, CC 4 mesylaminoalkoxy or CC 4 carbamoylaminoalkoxy, R represents a hydrogen or halogen atom or a CC 4 alkyl radical; Ri and R 2 can also form, with the nitrogen atom which carries them, a 5 or 6-membered nitrogen heterocycle optionally substituted by one or more alkyl, hydroxy or ureido groups.
- nitrogen groups of formula (I) above there may be mentioned in particular the amino, monoalky ⁇ CrC ⁇ amino, dialkyl (CC 4 ) amino, trialkyl (CrC 4 ) amino, monohydroxyalky CrC ⁇ amino, imidazolinium and ammonium radicals .
- paraphenylenediamines of formula (I) above there may be mentioned more particularly paraphenylenediamine, paratoluylenediamine, 2-chloro-paraphenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-paraphenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-paraphenylenediamine, 2 , 6-diethyl-paraphenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-paraphenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-paraphenylenediamine, NN-diet yl- paraphenylenediamine, N, N-dipropyl-paraphenylenediamine, 4-amino-N, N -diethyl- 3-methyl-aniline, N, N-bis- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) -paraphenylenediamine, 4-N, N-bis- ( ⁇ - hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methyl-aniline, 4-N, N-bis- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl)
- para-phenylenediamines of formula (I) above very particularly preferred are para-phenylenediamine, paratoluylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2- ⁇ -hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2- ⁇ -hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 6-dimethyl-paraphenylene diamine, 2,6-diethyl-paraphenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-paraphenylenediamine, N, N-bis- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) -paraphenylenediamine, 2-chloro-paraphenylenediamine, and their addition salts with an acid.
- double bases is intended to mean compounds comprising at least two aromatic rings on which are carried amino and / or hydroxyl groups.
- - ⁇ ! and Z 2 identical or different, represent a hydroxyl radical or -NH 2 which can be substituted by a CC 4 alkyl radical or by a linker Y;
- the link arm Y represents an alkylene chain comprising from 1 to 14 carbon atoms, linear or branched which can be interrupted or terminated by one or more nitrogen groups and / or by one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen atoms, sulfur or nitrogen, and optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl or alkoxy radicals in CC 6 ;
- R s and R 6 represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, a CC 4 alkyl radical, C r C 4 monohydroxyalkyl, C 2 -C polyhydroxyalkyl, CC 4 aminoalkyl or a linking arm Y;
- R 7 , R 8 , R ⁇ , Rio, Ru and R ⁇ 2 identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a link arm Y or a CC 4 alkyl radical; it being understood that the compounds of formula (II) have only one linker arm Y per molecule.
- nitrogen groups of formula (II) above there may be mentioned in particular the amino, monoalky C-rO amino, dialkyl (CrC) amino, trialkyl (CrC 4 ) amino, monohydroxyalkyl (CC 4 ) amino, imidazolinium ammonium.
- N, N'-bis- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) N, N'-bis- (4'-aminophényi) 1, 3-diamino propanol, 1,8-bis- (2,5-diaminophenoxy) - 3,5-dioxaoctane or one of their addition salts with an acid are particularly preferred.
- R 13 represents a hydrogen atom.
- a halogen atom such as fluorine, an alkyl radical in CC, monohydroxyalkyl in C r C 4 , alkoxy (C ⁇ -C 4 ) alkyl (C ⁇ -C 4 ) or aminoalkyle in CC or hydroxyalkyl (CC 4) aminoalkyl CC 4.
- Ri 4 represents a hydrogen atom or a halogen atom such as fluorine, a CC 4 alkyl radical, CC 4 monohydroxyalkyl, C 2 -C 4 polyhydroxyalkyl, CC 4 aminoalkyl, CC 4 cyanoalkyl or alkoxy ( C ⁇ -C 4 ) alkyl (CC 4 ).
- para-aminophenols of formula (III) above there may be mentioned more particularly para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methyl-phenol, 4-amino-3-fluoro-phenol, 4-amino -3-hydroxymethyl-phenol, 4-amino-2-methyl-phenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethyl-phenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethyl-phenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethyl-phenol , 4-amino-2- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl-aminomethyl) -phenol, and their addition salts with an acid.
- para-aminophenol 4-amino-3-methyl-phenol, 4-amino-3-fluoro-phenol, 4-amino -3-hydroxymethyl-phenol, 4-amino-2-methyl-phenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethyl-phenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethyl-phenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethyl-phenol , 4-amino-2- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl-aminomethyl) -phenol
- ortho-aminophenols which can be used as oxidation bases in the context of the present invention, are in particular chosen from 2-amino-phenol, 2-amino-1-hydroxy-5-methyl- benzene, 2-amino-1-hydroxy-6-methyl-benzene, 5-acetamido-2-amino-phenol, and their addition salts with an acid.
- heterocyclic bases which can be used as oxidation bases in the dye compositions in accordance with the invention, mention may more particularly be made of pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives, pyrazole derivatives, and their addition salts with an acid.
- pyridine derivatives mention may more particularly be made of the compounds described for example in patents GB 1,026,978 and GB 1,153,196, such as 2,5-diamino-pyridine, 2- (4-methoxyphenyl) amino-3- amino-pyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxy- pyridine, 2- ( ⁇ -methoxyethyl) amino-3-amino-6-methoxy pyridine, 3,4-diamino-pyridine, and their addition salts with an acid.
- pyrimidine derivatives mention may be made more particularly of the compounds described for example in German patents DE 2,359,399 or Japanese patents JP 88-169 571 and JP 91-10659 or patent applications WO 96/15765, such as 2,4, 5, 6-tetra-aminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine,
- 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, and pyrazolo-pyrimidine derivatives such as those mentioned in patent application FR-A-2 750 048 and among which mention may be made of pyrazolo- [1, 5-a] -pyrimidine-3, 7-diamine; 2,5-dimethyl-pyrazolo- [1,5-a] -pyrimidine-3,7-diamine; pyrazolo- [1,5-a] -pyrimidine-3,5-diamine; 2,7-dimethyl-pyrazolo- [1,5-a] -pyrimidine-3,5-diamine; 3-amino-pyrazolo- [1,5-a] -pyrimidin-7-ol; 3-amino-pyrazolo- [1,5-a] - pyrimidin-5-ol; 2- (3-amino pyrazolo- [1,5-a] -pyrimidin-7-ylamino) -ethanol; 2- (7-amino-pyr
- WO 94/08970, FR-A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988 such as 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-pyrazole, 3,4-diamino-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- ( 4'-chlorobenzyl) -pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1, 3-dimethyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino 1-methyl-3 -phenyl-pyrazole, 4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazino-pyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert- butyl-1-methyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-tert-butyl-3-methyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl)
- the oxidation bases preferably represent from 0.0005 to 12% by weight approximately of the total weight of the composition and even more preferably from 0.005 to 8% by weight approximately of this weight.
- the keratin fibers are dyed by at least one oxidation base and at least one coupler in the presence of an oxidant. Therefore, in the first compartment of the kit where it is recommended to use a conventional oxidation dye, there will be at least one oxidation base and at least one coupler.
- couplers mention may in particular be made of meta-aminophenols, meta-phenylenediamines, metadiphenols, heterocyclic couplers such as, for example, indole derivatives, indolin derivatives, naphthalene derivatives, sesamol and its derivatives, pyridine derivatives, pyrazolotriazole derivatives, pyrazolones, and their addition salts with an acid.
- couplers are more particularly chosen from 2,4-diamino-1- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyloxy) -benzene, 2-methyl-5-amino-phenol, 5-N- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methyl -phenol, 3-amino-phenol, 1, 3-dihydroxy-benzene, 1, 3-dihydroxy-2-methyl-benzene, 4-chloro-1, 3-dihydroxy-benzene, 2-amino 4 - ( ⁇ - hydroxyethylamino) -1-methoxy-benzene, 1, 3-diamino-benzene, 1, 3-bis- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) -propane, sesamol, 1-amino-2-methoxy -4,5-methylenedioxy benzene, ⁇ -naphthol, 1-acetoxy-2-methyl-naphthalene, 2-methyl-1-naphtol, 6-hydroxy indole, 4-hydroxy indole, 4-hydroxy N-methyl in
- addition salts with an acid of the oxidation bases and of the couplers are chosen from hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates and tartrates, lactates and acetates.
- the colorings obtained with conventional oxidation dyes can be nuanced by the addition of direct dyes; it is therefore also possible to also introduce at least one direct dye into the first compartment of the kit or into another separate compartment.
- the fibers are dyed beforehand with at least one direct dye.
- the direct dyes which can be used to vary the shades obtained by means of a conventional oxidation dyeing or for dyeing the fibers by a direct dyeing process, can in particular be chosen from nitrous, neutral or acidic or cationic direct dyes, direct dyes azo or acidic or cationic neutral dyes, acid or cationic neutral methine direct dyes, quinone direct dyes and in particular neutral, acidic or cationic anthraquinone dyes, azine direct dyes, triarylmethane direct dyes, indoamine direct dyes and natural direct dyes.
- benzene direct dyes the following compounds may be mentioned without limitation: -1, 4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene
- azo direct dyes mention may be made of the cationic azo dyes described in patent applications WO 95/15144, WO-95/01772 and EP-714954, the content of which forms an integral part of the invention. It may also be mentioned among the azo direct dyes, the following dyes described in the COLOR INDEX INTERNATIONAL 3rd edition: Disperse Red 17; Acid Yellow 9; Acid Black 1; Basic Red 22; Basic Red 76; Basic Yellow 57; Basic Brown 16; Acid Yellow 36; Acid Orange 7; Acid Red 33; Acid Red 35; Basic Brown 17; Acid Yellow 23; Acid Orange 24; Disperse Black 9.
- methine direct dyes mention may more particularly be made of cationic methine dyes such as Basic Red 14, Basic Yellow 13 and Basic Yellow 29.
- Disperse Blue 7 ; Basic Blue 22; Disperse Violet 15; Basic Blue 99, as well as the following compounds:
- azine direct dyes mention may be made of the following compounds such as Basic Blue 17 and Basic Red 2.
- triarylmethane direct dyes mention may be made of the following compounds: -Basic Green 1; Acid blue 9; Basic Violet 3; Basic Violet 14; Basic Blue 7; Acid Violet 49; Basic Blue 26; Acid Blue 7.
- indoamine direct dyes mention may be made of the following compounds: -2- ⁇ -hydroxyethylamino-5- [bis- (-4'-hydroxyethyl) -amino] -anilino-1, 4-benzoquinone; -2- ⁇ -hydroxyethylamino-5- (2'-methoxy-4'-amino) anilino-1,4-benzoquinone; -3-N (2'-chloro-4'-hydroxy) -phenyl-acetylamino-6-methoxy-1, 4-benzoquinone imine; -3-N (3'-chloro-4'-methyl-amino) -phenyl-ureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone imine; -3- [4'-N- (ethyl, carbamylmethyl) -amino] -phenyl-ureido-6-methyl-1, 4-benzo-quinone imine.
- the fibers are dyed beforehand with at least one direct dye in the presence of an oxidant.
- Said cationic direct dyes preferably used in lightening direct dye are in particular chosen from those of formula (I) below, and those of formulas (ll) a, (ll) b, (III) a, (III) b, and (IV ) to (VII), following and their mesomeric forms:
- Ri represents a hydrogen atom or an amino radical
- R 2 represents a hydrogen atom or a nitro group
- R 3 represents a hydrogen atom, a nitro group or a C r alkoxy radical
- R 4 represents a CC 4 alkyl radical
- R 5 represents a hydrogen atom or a paratrialkylCrC 4 ammoniophenyl group
- R 6 represents a bromine atom or an NHparatrialkyleCrOi ammoniophenyl group
- X represents an anion preferably chosen from chloride, methyl sulfate and acetate
- Z and D represent, identical or different, a nitrogen atom or the radical -CH-, R 7 and R 8 , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom; a CC alkyl radical which can be substituted by a -CN, -OH or -NH 2 radical or form with a carbon atom of the benzene ring a heterocycle optionally oxygenated or nitrogenous, which can be substituted by one or more C r C alkyl radicals 4 ; a radical
- R 9 and R ' 9 identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom - chosen from chlorine, bromine, iodine and fluorine, a cyano, CC alkyl radical , CC 4 alkoxy or acetyloxy,
- X " represents an anion preferably chosen from chloride, methyl sulfate and acetate
- A represents a group chosen by the following structures A1 to A19:
- Rio represents a CC 4 alkyl radical which can be substituted by a hydroxyl radical and Ru represents a C ⁇ -C 4 alkoxy radical;
- R ⁇ 2 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical in CC
- R 3 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical which can be substituted by a -CN radical or by an amino group, a 4'-aminophenyl radical or forms with
- R 12 is an optionally oxygenated and / or nitrogen-containing heterocycle which may be substituted by a CC 4 alkyl radical
- R M and R 15, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom such as bromine, chlorine, iodine or fluorine, alkyl or alkoxy DC 4 DC 4, a radical -CN,
- X " represents an anion preferably chosen from chloride, methyl sulfate and acetate
- B represents a group chosen by the following structures B1 to B6
- R 16 represents an alkyl radical in CC
- R i7 and R 18 identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical in C r C 4 ;
- R 19 represents a hydrogen atom, a C ⁇ -C 4l alkoxy radical, a halogen atom such as bromine, chlorine, iodine or fluorine or an amino radical,
- R 20 represents a hydrogen atom, a CC 4 alkyl radical or forms with a carbon atom of the benzene ring a heterocycle optionally oxygenated and / or substituted by one or more C ⁇ C 4 alkyl groups,
- R 2 ⁇ represents a hydrogen or halogen atom such as bromine, chlorine, iodine or fluorine,
- R 22 and R 23 identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a CC 4 alkyl radical
- Dj and D 2 identical or different, represent a nitrogen atom or the group -
- X " represents an anion preferably chosen from chloride, methyl sulfate and acetate
- E represents a group chosen by the following structures E1 to E8:
- R ' represents a C C alkyl radical
- E can also denote a group with the following structure E9:
- R 1 represents a CC 4 alkyl radical.
- G - N N - J (VII) in which: the symbol G represents a group chosen from the following structures Gj to G3:
- R24 denotes an alkyl radical in CC 4 , a phenyl radical which can be substituted by an alkyl radical in CC 4 or a halogen atom chosen from chlorine, bromine, iodine and fluorine;
- R25 denotes a C ⁇ -C 4 alkyl radical or a phenyl radical;
- R26 and R27 represent an alkyl radical in CC, a phenyl radical, or together form in Gj a benzene ring substituted by one or more alkyl radicals in CC, alkoxy in CC, or NO2, or together form in G2 a benzene ring optionally substituted by one or more C- ⁇ -C alkyl, CC alkoxy, or NO2 radicals;
- R26 may also denote a hydrogen atom
- Z denotes an oxygen or sulfur atom or a group -NR25;
- M represents a group -CH, -CR (R denoting C 1 -C 4 alkyl), or -NR 2 8 (X " ) r;
- K represents a group -CH, -CR (R denoting CC 4 alkyl), or -NR 2 ⁇ (X " ) r;
- P represents a group -CH, -CR (R denoting CC 4 alkyl), or -NR28 (X " ) ri r denotes zero or 1;
- R28 represents an atom O ⁇ ⁇ , an alkoxy radical in CC 4 , or an alkyl radical in CC 4 ;
- R29 and R30 identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom chosen from chlorine, bromine, iodine and fluorine, an alkyl radical in CC, alkoxy in C ⁇ -C 4 , a radical -NO2 ;
- X- represents an anion preferably chosen from chloride, iodide, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, acetate and perchlorate;
- R3I represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom chosen from chlorine, bromine, iodine and fluorine, an alkyl radical in C 1 -C 4 alkoxy, C 4, a radical -OH, - NO2 , -NHR34, -NR35R3Q, -NHCOalkyl in CC, or forms with R32 a 5 or 6-membered ring containing or not containing one or more heteroatoms chosen from nitrogen, oxygen or sulfur;
- R32 represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom chosen from chlorine, bromine, iodine and fluorine, an alkyl radical in CC 4 , alkoxy in CC 4 or forms with R33 or R34 a ring with 5 or 6 links containing or not containing one or more heteroatoms chosen from nitrogen, oxygen or sulfur;
- R33 represents a hydrogen atom, a radical -OH, a radical -NHR34, a radical -
- R34 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical in CC 4 , a monohydroxyalkyl radical in O ⁇ -C 4 , polyhydroxyalkyl in C 2 -C 4 , a phenyl radical;
- R35 and R36 identical or different, represent an alkyl radical in CC 4 , a monohydroxyalkyl radical in CC 4 , polyhydroxyalkyl in C 2 -C 4 ;
- R37 and R38 identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C ⁇ 3 -C 10 alkyl radical, a phenyl radical;
- cationic direct dyes of formula (VI ') mention may more particularly be made of the compounds corresponding to the following structures (Vl'1) to (Vl'3):
- cationic direct dyes of formula (VII) there may be mentioned more particularly the compounds of structures (VI 11) to (Vll 77 ) below:
- the direct dye (s) preferably represent from 0.001 to 20% by weight approximately of the total weight of the oxidizing or non-oxidizing dye composition and even more preferably from 0.005 to 10% by weight approximately.
- the oxidant necessary for carrying out the oxidation dyeing or the lightening dyeing is separated from the oxidation dye (s) or from the cationic direct dye (s). It is preferably chosen from peroxide hydrogen, urea peroxide, bromates or ferricyanides of alkali metals, persalts such as perborates and persulfates, the use of hydrogen peroxide being particularly preferred.
- This oxidizing agent is advantageously constituted by a solution of hydrogen peroxide, the titer of which can vary, more particularly, from approximately 1 to 40 volumes, and even more preferably from approximately 5 to 40.
- oxidation-reduction enzymes such as 4-electron oxidoreductases (such as laccases), peroxidases and 2-electron oxidoreductases (such as uricase), where appropriate in the presence of their respective donor or cofactor.
- the medium suitable for 'fading (or support) of the bleaching composition generally consists of water or of a mixture of water and at least one organic solvent to dissolve the compounds which are not sufficiently soluble in water.
- organic solvent mention may, for example, be made of C 1 -C 4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; glycerol; glycols and glycol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether of diethylene glycol, as well as aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol , analogues and their mixtures.
- Said solvents can then be present in proportions preferably of between 0.5 to 20% and, more particularly, from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the bleaching composition.
- the pH of the bleaching composition according to the invention is acidic and preferably between 1.8 and 6.
- acidifying or basifying agents in amounts ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
- acidifying agents there may be mentioned, by way of example, mineral or organic acids such as etidronic acid, hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.
- basifying agents there may be mentioned, by way of example, ammonia, alkali carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines, 2-methyl-2-amino-1-propanol as well as their derivatives, sodium or potassium hydroxides and compounds of the following formula (K):
- W is a propylene residue optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group or a CC 4 alkyl radical;
- R 39, R 4 o, R41 and R 2 identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, alkyl or hydroxyalkyl DC 4 DC 4.
- the bleaching composition in accordance with the invention may contain at least one thickening agent in a proportion of between 0.01 and 10% and in particular between 0.1 and 5% approximately by weight of the total weight of the composition.
- They are preferably chosen from cellulose derivatives, guar derivatives, ⁇ gums of microbial or vegetable origin and synthetic thickeners.
- -C6) celluloses and carboxyalkyl (Cj -C ⁇ jcelluloses.
- -C6) celluloses are more particularly hydroxyethylcelluloses such as those sold under the names CELLOSIZE QP3L, CELLOSIZE QP4400H, CELLOSIZE QP30000H, CELLOSIZE HEC30000A, CELLOSIZE POLYMER PCG10, by AMERCHOL, or NATROSOL 250HHR, NATROSOL 250MR, NATROSOL 250M, NATROSOL 250HHROS, 250HHROS TYLOSE H1000 by the company HOECHST.
- -Ce) celluloses are also more particularly hydroxypropylcelluloses such as the products sold under the names KLUCEL EF, KLUCEL H, KLUCEL LHF, KLUCEL MF, KLUCEL G, by the company AQUALON.
- carboxymethylcellulose is preferably used, the products of which may be mentioned sold under the names BLANOSE 7M8 / SF, BLANOSE RAFF INEE 7M, BLANOSE 7LF, BLANOSE 7MF, BLANOSE 9M31F, BLANOSE 12M31XP, BLANOSE 12M31P, BLANOSE 9M31XF, BLANOSE 7H, BLANOSE 7M31, BLANOSE 7H3SXF, by the company AQUALON, or even AQUASORB A500 and AMBERGUM 1221, by the company HERCULES, or even CELLOGEN HP10, MONTELLO, or PRIMELLOSE by the company AVEBE.
- modified or unmodified nonionic guar gums are for example the products sold under the name VIDOGUM GH 175 by the company UNIPECTINE, and under the names MEYPRO-GUAR 50 and JAGUAR C by the company MEYHALL.
- the modified nonionic guar gums are modified in particular by C -CQ hydroxyalkyl groups.
- the hydroxyalkyl groups there may be mentioned, by way of example, the hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.
- nonionic guar gums optionally modified by hydroxyalkyl groups are for example sold under the trade names JAGUAR HP8, JAGUAR HP60 and JAGUAR HP120, JAGUAR DC 293 and JAGUAR HP 105 by the company RHONE POULENC (MEYHALL) or under the name GALACTASOL 4H4FD2 by the company AQUALON.
- gums of microbial origin mention may be made of gums of biopolysaccharides such as Scleroglucans or Xanthans.
- the scleroglucans are represented for example by the products sold under the name ACTIGUM CS by the company SANOFI BIO INDUSTRIES and in particular ACTIGUM CS 11 and under the name AMIGEL by the company ALBAN MULLER INTERNATIONAL. Other scleroglucans such as that treated with glyoxal in French patent application No. 2633940 can also be used.
- Xanthans are represented for example by the products sold under the names KELTROL, KELTROL T, KELTROL TF, KELTROL BT, KELTROL RD, KELTROL CG by the company NUTRASWEET KELCO, or under the names RHODICARE S, RHODICARE H by the company RHODIA CHIMIE.
- gums of plant origin mention may be made of those derived from plant exudates such as Aabic gums, Ghatti gum, Karaya gum, Tragacanth, Carrageenan, Agar and Carob. Pectins, alginates and starches can also be used. All these compounds are well known to those skilled in the art and described in particular in the book by Robert L. DAVIDSON entitled “Handbook of Water soluble gums and resins" published by Me Graw Hill Book Company (1980).
- amphiphilic polymers also called “associative”, comprising at least one fatty chain, and of the anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric type.
- polymers comprising at least one fatty chain and of anionic type, there may be mentioned:
- CH 2 CR 'CH 2 OB
- R' denotes H or CH 3
- B denotes the ethyleneoxy radical
- n is zero or denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 100
- R denotes a hydrocarbon radical chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, cycloalkyl radicals, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24, and more particularly still from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
- a unit of formula (XV) more particularly preferred is a unit in which R ′ denotes H, n is equal to 10, and R denotes a stearyl radical (C 18 ).
- Anionic amphiphilic polymers of this type are described and prepared, according to an emulsion polymerization process, in patent EP-0 216479.
- anionic thickening polymers with a fatty chain the polymers formed from from 20 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and or methacrylic acid, from 5 to 60% by weight of lower alkyl (meth) acrylates, from 2 to 50% by weight of chain allyl ether fatty of formula (XV), and from 0 to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent which is a well-known polyethylenic unsaturated copolymerizable monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth) acrylate, divinylbenzene, dimethacrylate of (poly) ethylene glycol, and methylene-bis-acrylamide.
- a crosslinking agent which is a well-known polyethylenic unsaturated copolymerizable monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (
- crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate, polyethylene glycol (10 EO) stearyl alcohol ether (Steareth 10), in particular those sold by the company ALLIED COLLOIDS under the names SALCARE SC 80 and SALCARE SC90 which are 30% aqueous emulsions of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and steareth-10-allyl ether (40/50/10).
- these polymers are chosen from those whose hydrophilic unit of acid type, olefinic unsaturated carboxylic group corresponds to the monomer of formula (XVI) below:
- R 2 denotes H or CH 3 or C 2 H 5 (that is to say acrylate, methacrylate or ethacrylate units) and preferably H (acrylate units) or CH 3 (methacrylate units), R 3 denoting an alkyl radical in C 1 -C 30 , and preferably in C 12 -C 22 .
- Alkyl esters (C ⁇ 0 -C 30 ) of unsaturated carboxylic acids according to the invention include, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate , dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate, and dodecyl methacrylate.
- Anionic polymers of this type are for example described and prepared, according to US Pat. Nos. 3,915,921 and 4,509,949.
- anionic thickening polymers with a fatty chain use will be made more particularly of polymers formed from a mixture of monomers comprising: (i). mainly acrylic acid,
- R 3 denoting an alkyl radical having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, (iii) and a crosslinking agent, which is a well known copolymerizable polyethylene unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth) acrylate , divinylbenzene, (poly) ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, and methylene-bis-acrylamide.
- a crosslinking agent which is a well known copolymerizable polyethylene unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth) acrylate , divinylbenzene, (poly) ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, and methylene-bis-acrylamide.
- anionic thickening polymers with a fatty chain use will be made more particularly of those consisting of 95 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4 to 40% by weight of C 10 -C alkyl acrylate. 30 (hydrophobic unit), and 0 to 6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, or else those consisting of 98 to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1 to 4% by weight of alkyl acrylate in C ⁇ o-C 30 (hydrophobic unit), and 0.1 to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer such as those described above.
- a non-surfactant ⁇ , ⁇ -monoethylenically unsaturated monomer other than (a) (b) about 20 to 80% by weight of a non-surfactant ⁇ , ⁇ -monoethylenically unsaturated monomer other than (a), (c) about 0.5 to 60% by weight of a mono-urethane nonionic which is the reaction product of a monohydric surfactant with a monoethylenically unsaturated monoisocyanate, such as those described in patent application EP-A-0173109 and more particularly that described in Example 3, namely , an acidic terpolymer methacrylic / methyl acrylate / dimethyl metaisopropenyl benzyl isocyanate of ethoxylated behenyl alcohol (40OE) in aqueous dispersion at 25%.
- a mono-urethane nonionic which is the reaction product of a monohydric surfactant with a monoethylenically uns
- the copolymers comprising, among their monomers, an ⁇ , ⁇ -monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of ⁇ , ⁇ -monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol.
- these compounds also comprise, as monomer, an ester of ⁇ , ⁇ -monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of C1-C4 alcohol.
- ACULYN 22 sold by the company ROHM and HAAS, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate terpolymer.
- alkyl groups modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups, or their mixtures, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably C 8 -C 22 , such as the product NATROSOL PLUS GRADE 330 CS (C 16 alkyls) sold by the company AQUALON, or the product BERMOCOLL EHM 100 sold by the company BEROL NOBEL,
- hydroxypropylguars modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as the product ESAFLOR HM 22 (C 22 alkyl chain) sold by the company LAMBERTI, the products RE210-18 (C 14 alkyl chain) and RE205 -1 (C 20 alkyl chain) sold by the company RHONE POULENC.
- copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain such as for example the polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer.
- polyether polyurethanes comprising in their chain, both hydrophilic sequences of a nature most often polyoxyethylenated and hydrophobic sequences which can be aliphatic sequences alone and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic sequences.
- polymers with an aminoplast ether skeleton having at least one fatty chain such as the PURE THIX compounds offered by the company SUD-CHEMIE.
- the polyether polyurethanes comprise at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon chains, having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, the hydrocarbon chains being able to be pendant chains or chains at the end of hydrophilic block.
- the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.
- the polyether polyurethanes can be multiblock in particular in the form of a triblock.
- the hydrophobic blocks can be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer with hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (multiblock copolymer for example).
- nonionic fatty chain polyurethane polyethers can be triblock copolymers whose hydrophilic block is a polyoxyethylenated chain comprising from 50 to 1000 oxyethylenated groups.
- Non-ionic polyether polyurethanes contain a urethane bond between the hydrophilic sequences, hence the origin of the name.
- nonionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers those whose hydrophilic sequences are linked to the lipophilic sequences by other chemical bonds.
- non-ionic polyether polyurethanes with a fatty chain which can be used in the invention, it is also possible to use Rheolate 205 with urea function sold by the company RHEOX or Rheolates 208, 204 or 212, as well as Acrysol RM 184, Aculyn 44 and Aculyn 46 from the company ROHM & HAAS
- ACULYN 46 is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylene bis ( 4-cyclohexyl-isocyanate) (SMDl), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%);
- ACULYN 44 is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide,
- the product DW 1206B from ROHM & HAAS with a C 20 alkyl chain and a urethane bond, offered at 20% dry matter in water, can also be used.
- Rheolate 255, Rheolate 278 and Rheolate 244 sold by the company RHEOX.
- polyether polyurethanes which can be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci 271, 380.389
- quaternized cellulose derivatives which are, in particular, - quaternized celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups containing at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof,
- - quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups containing at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof.
- the alkyl radicals carried by the above quaternized celluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses preferably contain from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
- the aryl radicals preferably denote the phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.
- quaternized C 8 -C 30 fatty chain quaternized alkyl hydroxyethylcelluloses the products QUATRISOFT LM 200, QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-18-A, QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-18B (C 12 alkyl) and QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-8 (C 18 alkyl) sold by the company AMERCHOL and the products CRODACEL QM, CRODACEL QL (C 2 alkyl) and CRODACEL QS (C18 alkyl) sold by the company CRODA.
- Polyacrylates with amino side groups for example have hydrophobic groups of the steareth 20 type (polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol (20)).
- polyacrylates with amino side chains mention may be made of polymers 8781-121 B or 9492-103 offered by the company National Starch.
- polymers comprising at least one fatty chain and of amphoteric type preference is given to those comprising at least one non-cyclic cationic unit. More particularly still, those prepared from or comprising 1 to 20 mol% of monomer comprising a fatty chain are preferred, and preferably 1.5 to 15 mol% and more particularly still 1.5 to 6 mol%, relative to the number total moles of monomers.
- the fatty chain amphoteric polymers preferred according to the invention comprise, or are prepared by copolymerizing:
- R- and R2, identical or different represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical
- R3, R4 and R5, identical or different represents a linear or branched alkyl radical having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms
- Z represents an NH group or an oxygen atom
- n is an integer from 2 to 5, 0
- R 6 - CH CR 7 - COOH (II) 5 in which, RQ and Ry, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;
- the monomers of formula (la) and (Ib) of the present invention are preferably chosen from the group consisting of: - dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, dimethylaminoethyl ethyl acrylate,
- these monomers being optionally quaternized, for example by a C -) - C4 alkyl halide or a C-
- the monomer of formula (la) is chosen from acrylamide-propyl trimethyl ammonium chloride and methacrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride.
- the monomers of formula (II) of the present invention are preferably chosen from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid and 2-methyl crotonic acid. More particularly, the monomer of formula (II) is acrylic acid.
- the monomers of formula (III) of the present invention are preferably chosen from the group consisting of C12-C22 and more particularly C-Q-C-Q alkyl acrylates or methacrylates.
- the monomers constituting the fatty chain amphoteric polymers of the invention are preferably already neutralized and / or quaternized.
- the ratio of the number of cationic charges / anionic charges is preferably equal to approximately 1.
- the fatty-chain amphoteric polymers according to the invention preferably comprise from 1 to 10 mol% of the monomer comprising a fatty chain (monomer of formula (la), (Ib) or (III)), and preferably from 1.5 to 6 moles%.
- the weight average molecular weights of the fatty chain amphoteric polymers according to the invention can vary from 500 to 50,000,000 and are preferably between 10,000 and 5,000,000.
- the fatty-chain amphoteric polymers according to the invention can also contain other monomers such as nonionic monomers and in particular such as C1-C4 alkyl acrylates or methacrylates.
- Amphoteric fatty chain polymers according to the invention are for example described and prepared in patent application WO9844012.
- the acrylic acid / (meth) acrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride / stearyl methacrylate copolymers are preferred.
- the bleaching composition according to the invention may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in compositions for bleaching the hair.
- the surfactants can be present and can be indifferently chosen, alone or in mixtures, within anionic, amphoteric, nonionic, zwitterionic and cationic surfactants.
- surfactants which are suitable for carrying out the present invention are in particular the following:
- anionic surfactants which can be used, alone or as mixtures, in the context of the present invention, there may be mentioned in particular (non-limiting list) the salts (in particular alkaline salts, in particular sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts or magnesium salts) of the following compounds: alkylsulphates, alkylethersulphates, alkylamidoethersulphates, alkylarylpolyethersulphates, monoglycerides sulphates; alkylsulfonates, alkylphosphates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, ⁇ -olefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates; alkyl (C 6 -C 24) sulfosuccinates, alkyl (C 6 -C 24) éthersulfosuccinates, alkyl (C 6 -C 2 4) amidesulfosuccinate
- esters alkyl (C 6 -C 24 ) carboxylic polyglycosides such as alkylglucoside citrates, alkylpolyglycoside tartrate and alkylpolyglycoside sulfosuccinates., alkylsulfosuccinamates; acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, the alkyl or acyl radical of all these different compounds preferably containing from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, and the aryl radical preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group.
- esters alkyl (C 6 -C 24 ) carboxylic polyglycosides such as alkylglucoside citrates, alkylpolyglycoside tartrate and alkylpolyglycoside sulfosuccinates., alkylsulfosuccinamates; acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, the alky
- anionic surfactants which can still be used, mention may also be made of the salts of fatty acids such as the salts of oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic, stearic acids, coconut oil or hydrogenated coconut oil acids; acyl-lactylates whose acyl radical contains 8 to 20 carbon atoms.
- alkyl D galactoside uronic acids and their salts polyoxyalkylenated (C 6 -C 24 ) alkyl ether acids, poly (C 6 -C 2 ) alkyl aryl ether polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic acids, alkyl acids ( C 6 -C 24 ) polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic amido ether and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene, and their mixtures.
- Non-ionic surfactants are also well known compounds per se (see in particular in this regard "Handbook of Surfactants” by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178) and their nature is not, in the context of the present invention, critical. Thus, they can in particular be chosen from (nonlimiting list) alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols or polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated fatty acids, having a fatty chain comprising for example 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of oxide groups ethylene or propylene oxide which may range in particular from 2 to 50.
- esters of oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acids having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, alkylpolyglycosides, N-alkyl glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as alkyl (C- j nC- ⁇ ) oxides or N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides.
- the alkylpolyglycosides constitute nonionic surfactants which are particularly well within the scope of the present invention.
- Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants may in particular be (non-limiting list) derivatives of aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines, in which the aliphatic radical is a chain linear or branched having 8 to 18 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-soluble anionic group (for example carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate); mention may also be made of the (C8-C20) alkyl betaines, the sulfobetaines, the (C8-C20) alkyl amidoalkyl (C-j-Cg) betaines or the (C8-C20) amidoalkyl (C-J-CQ) alkyl sulfobetaines.
- the aliphatic radical is a chain linear or branched having 8 to 18 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-soluble anionic group (for example carboxylate, sulfonate, sul
- R34 CONHCH 2 CH 2 -N (R35) (R 36 ) (CH 2 COO-) in which: R34 denotes an alkyl radical of an acid R34-COOH present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl radical or undecyl, R35 denotes a beta-hydroxyethyl group and R36 denotes a carboxymethyl group; and
- B represents -CH2CH2OX '
- X 'de notes the group -CH2CH2-COOH or a hydrogen atom
- Y 'de notes -COOH or the radical -CH 2 - CHOH - SO3H
- Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, Djsodium Caprylamphodiacetate, Disodium Capryloamphodiacetate, Disodium Coco- amphodipropionate, Disodium Lauroamphodipropionphpropiodopropatephodipropionphodipropionphodipropionphpropiodinepropylphionipropionophodipropionphionipropate .
- the cocoamphodiacetate sold under the trade name MIRANOL®
- cationic surfactants that may be mentioned in particular (nonlimiting list): the salts of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated; quaternary ammonium salts such as chlorides or bromides of tetraalkylammonium, alkylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium, trialkylbenzylammonium, trialkylhydroxyalkylammonium or alkylpyridinium; imidazoline derivatives; or amine oxides of a cationic nature.
- the amounts of surfactants present in the ready-to-use composition according to the invention can vary from 0.01 to 40% and preferably from 0.1 to 30% of the total weight of the composition.
- adjuvants may also be present and among them, nonionic, anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic and cationic conditioning polymers, or their mixtures, and preferably cationic or amphoteric substantive polymers.
- cationic polymer designates any polymer containing cationic groups and or groups ionizable into cationic groups.
- the cationic polymers which can be used in accordance with the present invention can be chosen from all those already known per se as improving the cosmetic properties of the hair, namely in particular those described in patent application EP-A-337 354 and in French patents FR- 2,270,846, 2,383,660, 2,598,611, 2,470,596 and 2,519,863.
- the preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those which contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups which can either be part of the main polymer chain or be carried by a lateral substituent directly connected thereto.
- the cationic polymers used generally have a number-average molecular mass of between 500 and 5.10 6 approximately, and preferably between 10 3 and 3.10 e approximately.
- cationic polymers mention may more particularly be made of polymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and quaternary polyammonium type. These are known products. They are described in particular in French patents 2,505,348 or 2,542,997. Among the said polymers, there may be mentioned:
- R3 identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical
- A represent an alkyl group, linear or branched, from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
- R4, R5, Rg, identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical and preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
- and R2 which may be identical or different, represent hydrogen or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and preferably methyl or ethyl;
- X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
- the polymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units deriving from comonomers which can be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetones, acrylamides, acrylamides and substituted methacrylamides on nitrogen with lower alkyls (C-1-C4), acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters.
- comonomers which can be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetones, acrylamides, acrylamides and substituted methacrylamides on nitrogen with lower alkyls (C-1-C4), acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters.
- hydroxyalkyl celluloses such as hydroxymethyl- , hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyl trimethylammonium, of methacrylmidopropyl trimethylammonium, of dimethyl-diallylammonium.
- the marketed products meeting this definition are more particularly the products sold under the name "Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by the National Starch Company.
- cationic polysaccharides described more particularly in US patents 3,589,578 and 4,031,307 such as guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups.
- Guar gums modified with a salt (eg chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium are used, for example.
- Such products are marketed in particular under the trade names of JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17 or JAGUAR C162 by the company MEYHALL.
- Water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-halide of alkyl or also with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide, d 'an epilhalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amino group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides
- Polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation by bifunctional agents Mention may be made, for example, of the adipic acid-diacoylaminohydroxyalkoyldialoylene triamine polymers in which the alkyl radical contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl, propyl. Such polymers are described in particular in French patent 1,583,363. Among these derivatives, there may be mentioned more particularly the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylene triamine polymers sold under the name "Cartaretine F, F4 or F8" by the company Sandoz.
- the molar ratio between the polyalkylene polylamine and the dicarboxylic acid being between 0.8: 1 and 1.4: 1; the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amino group of the polyaminoamide of between 0.5: 1 and 1.8: 1.
- Such polymers are described in particular in the patents American 3,227,615 and 2,961,347.
- Polymers of this type are in particular sold under the name "Hercosett 57” by the company Hercules Inc. or else under the name of "PD 170” or “Delsette 101” by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid copolymer / epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine.
- Rg denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical
- Ry and RQ independently of each other, denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably has 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower amidoalkyl group (CJ -C4), where Ry and Rg can denote, jointly with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl;
- Ry and R8 independently of one another preferably denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
- Y ' is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate.
- Rl2 and R 13 represent a linear or branched C ⁇
- A1 and B1 represent polymethylenic groups containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more atoms of oxygen, sulfur or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
- X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid
- 2 can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring; moreover if A1 denotes an alkylene radical or linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydroxyalkylene, B1 can also denote a group - (CH2) n-CO-D-OC- (CH2) n- in which D denotes: a) a glycol residue of formula: -OZO-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas: - (CH 2 -CH 2 -O) x-CH2-CH 2 -
- x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization; b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative; c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or else the bivalent radical
- X ' is an anion such as chloride or bromide.
- These polymers have a number average molecular weight generally between 1000 and 100,000.
- 2 t R 13, identical or different denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms approximately, n and p are whole numbers varying from 2 to 20 approximately and, X " is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.
- D may be zero or may represent a group - (CH2) r -CO- in which r denotes a number equal to
- X is an anion;
- Such polymers can be prepared according to the methods described in US Pat. Nos. 4,157,388, 4,702,906, 4,719,282. They are described in particular in patent application EP-A-122 324.
- Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole such as for example the products marketed under the names Luviquat FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company B.A.S.F.
- ammonium such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, homo or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking by an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylene bis acrylamide.
- a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) can more particularly be used in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil.
- This dispersion is marketed under the name of "SALCARE® SC 92" by the company ALLIED COLLOIDS. It is also possible to use a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride containing approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are marketed under the names of "SALCARE® SC 95” and “SALCARE® SC 96" by the company ALLIED COLLOIDS.
- cationic polymers which can be used in the context of the invention are polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, polyamine and epichlorohydrin condensates, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.
- polyalkyleneimines in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, polyamine and epichlorohydrin condensates, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.
- the concentration of cationic substantive polymer in the composition according to the present invention can vary from 0.01 to 10%) by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05 to 5% and even more preferably from 0 , 1 to 3%.
- amphoteric polymers which can be used in accordance with the present invention can be chosen from polymers comprising K and M units distributed statistically in the polymer chain, where K denotes a unit derived from a monomer comprising at least one basic nitrogen atom and M denotes a unit derived from an acidic monomer comprising one or more carboxylic or sulphonic groups, or else
- K and M can denote groups deriving from zwitterionic monomers of carboxybetaines or sulfobetaines; K and M can also denote a cationic polymer chain comprising primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, in which at least one of the amine groups carries a carboxylic or sulphonic group linked via a hydrocarbon radical, or although K and M form part of a chain of a polymer with an ⁇ , ⁇ -dicarboxylic ethylene unit, one of the carboxyl groups of which has been reacted with a polyamine comprising one or more primary or secondary amine groups.
- amphoteric polymers corresponding to the definition given above which are more particularly preferred are chosen from the following polymers:
- the vinyl compound can also be a dialkyldiallylammonium salt such as dimethyldiallylammonium chloride.
- the copolymers of acrylic acid and of the latter monomer are offered under the names MERQUAT 280, MERQUAT 295 and MERQUAT PLUS 3330 by the company CALGON.
- Polymers comprising units derived from: a) at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides or methacrylamides substituted on nitrogen by an alkyl radical, b) from at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more carboxylic groups reactants, and c) at least one basic comonomer such as esters with primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituents of acrylic and methacrylic acids and the product of quaternization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate.
- N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides which are more particularly preferred according to the invention are groups whose alkyl radicals contain from 2 to 12 carbon atoms and more particularly N-ethylacrylamide, N-tertiobutyl-acrylamide, N-tertiooctyl-acrylamide , N-octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide, N-dodecylacrylamide and the corresponding methacrylamides.
- the acid comonomers are chosen more particularly from acrylic, methacrylic, crotonic, itaconic, mayic, fumaric acids as well as alkyl monoesters having 1 to 4 carbon atoms of mayic or fumaric acids or anhydrides.
- the preferred basic comonomers are aminoethyl, butyl aminoethyl, N, N'-dimethylaminoethyl, N-tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylates.
- Copolymers are particularly used, the name CTFA (4th Ed., 1991) being Octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymer such as the products sold under the name AMPHOMER or LOVOCRYL 47 by the company NATIONAL STARCH.
- R-19 represents a divalent radical derived from a saturated dicarboxylic acid, from a mono or dicarboxylic acid with ethylene double bond, from an ester of a lower alkanol having 1 to 6 carbon atoms of these acids or a radical derived from the addition of any of said acids with an amin e bis-primary or bis-secondary
- Z denotes a radical of a polyalkylene polyamine bis-primary, mono- or bis-secondary and preferably represents : a) in the proportions of 60 to 100 mol%, the radical
- the saturated carboxylic acids are preferably chosen from acids having 6 to 10 carbon atoms such as adipic, trimethyl-2,2,4-adipic acid and trimethyl-2,4,4-adipic, terephthalic acid, ethylenic double bond such as for example acrylic, methacrylic, itaconic acids.
- alkanesultones used in alkylation are preferably propane or butane sultone
- the salts of the alkylating agents are preferably the sodium or potassium salts.
- R20 denotes a polymerizable unsaturated group such as an acrylate, methacrylate, acrylamide or methacrylamide group
- y and z represent an integer from 1 to 3
- R21 and R22 represent a hydrogen, methyl, ethyl or propyl atom
- R23 and R24 represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical such that the sum of the carbon atoms in R23 and R24 does not exceed 10.
- the polymers comprising such units may also contain units derived from non-zwitterionic monomers such as dimethyl or diethylaminoethyl acrylate or methacrylate or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, acrylamides or methacrylamides or vinyl acetate.
- non-zwitterionic monomers such as dimethyl or diethylaminoethyl acrylate or methacrylate or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, acrylamides or methacrylamides or vinyl acetate.
- non-zwitterionic monomers such as dimethyl or diethylaminoethyl acrylate or methacrylate or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, acrylamides or methacrylamides or vinyl acetate.
- the copolymer of butyl methacrylate / dimethylcarboxymethylammonioethyl methacrylate such as the product sold under the name DIAFORMER Z301 by the company SANDOZ.
- R 25 represents a radical of formula:
- N-carboxymethyl chitosan or N-carboxybutyl chitosan sold under the name "EVALSAN” by the company JAN DEKKER.
- R29 represents a hydrogen atom, a CH3O radical, CH3CH2O, phenyl
- R30 denotes hydrogen or a lower alkyl radical such as methyl, ethyl
- R3I denotes hydrogen or a lower alkyl radical such as methyl, ethyl
- R32 denotes a lower alkyl radical such as methyl, ethyl or a radical corresponding to the formula -R33-N (R3-
- r is such that the molecular weight is between 500 and 6,000,000 and preferably between 1,000 and 1,000,000.
- Amphoteric polymers of the -DXDX- type chosen from: a) the polymers obtained by the action of chloracetic acid or sodium chloroacetate on the compounds comprising at least one unit of formula:
- X denotes the symbol E or E ', E or E', which are identical or different, denote a bivalent radical which is an alkylene radical with a straight or branched chain containing up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain unsubstituted or substituted by groups hydroxyl and may also contain oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur atoms, 1 to 3 aromatic and / or heterocyclic rings; the oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms being present in the form of ether, thioether, sulfoxide, sulfone, sulfonium, alkylamine, alkenylamine groups, hydroxyl groups, benzylamine, amine oxide, quaternary ammonium, amide, imide, alcohol, ester and / or urethane; b) polymers of formula:
- E denotes the symbol E or E 'and at least once E';
- E having the meaning indicated above and E 'is a bivalent radical which is a straight or branched chain alkylene radical having up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, substituted or not by one or more hydroxyl radicals and comprising a or more nitrogen atoms, the nitrogen atom being substituted by an alkyl chain optionally interrupted by an oxygen atom and necessarily having one or more carboxyl functions or one or more hydroxyl functions and betainized by reaction with chloracetic acid or sodium chloracetate.
- These copolymers can also contain other vinyl comonomers such as vinylcaprolactam.
- amphoteric polymers which are particularly preferred according to the invention are those of the family (1).
- the amphoteric substantive polymer (s) can represent from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight. weight, the total weight of the composition.
- adjuvants such as penetrating agents, sequestering agents, perfumes, dispersing agents, volatile or non-volatile silicones, modified or unmodified, film-forming agents, ceramides, preserving agents, opacifying agents, mineral or vegetable oils, waxes, vitamins, can also be present in the bleaching composition according to the invention.
- composition in accordance with the invention can be in various forms, such as in the form of solutions, solutions, creams, gels, optionally pressurized in the form of foams, or in any other form suitable for producing a bleaching of keratin fibers, and in particular of human hair.
- the bleaching composition at acidic pH is obtained by extemporaneous mixing at the time of use, of two aqueous compositions, one of which contains at least one sulfinic acid or one of its salts. acid or alkaline pH, and the other at least one alpha-oxocarboxylic acid or one of its salts at acid pH.
- the bleaching composition at acidic pH is obtained by extemporaneous mixing at the time of use, of two aqueous compositions, one of which contains at least sodium hydroxymethanesulfinate at alkaline pH, and the other at least alpha-ketoglutaric acid at acidic pH.
- At least one bleaching composition as defined above is applied to the dyed fibers, at an application temperature between room temperature and 80 ° C., for a time sufficient to partially or completely degrade the color. coloration born from the oxidative or non-oxidative dye of keratin fibers.
- the fibers are then rinsed, or optionally washed with shampoo, rinsed again and then dried.
- a step of neutralization of the reducing agent possibly remaining is carried out by applying to the fibers an aqueous composition of hydrogen peroxide.
- the fibers are then rinsed, shampooed, rinsed again and then dried.
- the application temperature is preferably between room temperature and 60 ° C and even more preferably between 35 ° C and 50 ° C.
- the time sufficient for the development of discoloration of keratin fibers is generally between 1 and 60 minutes and even more precisely between 5 and 30 minutes.
- a * and b * indicate two color axes, a * indicates the green / red color axis (+ a * is red, -a * is green)) and b * the blue / yellow color axis (+ b * is yellow and - b * is blue). Values close to zero for a * and b * correspond to gray shades.
- the discoloration ⁇ E is calculated by applying the following equation:
- ⁇ E V (L * -L 0 *) 2 * (a * - a 0 + (b * - b 0 * ) 2
- ⁇ E represents the difference in color between two strands, (in this case the discoloration )
- L *, a *, and b * respectively represent the measurements of the discolored lock
- L 0 *, a 0 * and b 0 * respectively represent the measurements of the tint lock.
- each of these solutions further containing 0.25% by weight of the same surfactant (sodium olefin sulfonate) and having been adjusted before use to pH 2.7 with orthophosphoric acid and / or monoethanolamine.
- surfactant sodium olefin sulfonate
- each of these solutions further containing 0.25% by weight of the same surfactant (sodium olefin sulfonate) and having been adjusted before use to pH 2.7 with orthophosphoric acid and / or monoethanolamine.
- surfactant sodium olefin sulfonate
- Example 1 The aqueous solution (3) of Example 1 containing an association according to the invention was compared with an aqueous solution (4) containing an association of the prior art: (4) 0.00552 mole% of ascorbic acid [ 9.715% by weight], + 0.0068 mol% of alpha-ketoglutaric acid [1% by weight], each of these solutions also containing 0.25% by weight of the same ⁇ surfactant (sodium olefin sulfonate) and having been adjusted before use to pH 2.7 with orthophosphoric acid and / or monoethanolamine .
- ⁇ surfactant sodium olefin sulfonate
- Hair locks were previously dyed according to a protocol identical to Example 1 with a commercial oxidation dye MAJIROUGE Nuance 6.66 to which was added 0.039% by weight of the cationic direct dye BASIC RED 51 (dye of formula (IV2 ) and 0.035% by weight of the cationic direct dye BASIC YELLOW 87 (dye of formula (VI4).
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Abstract
Description
Claims
Applications Claiming Priority (3)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
FR0010756 | 2000-08-21 | ||
FR0010756A FR2813016B1 (en) | 2000-08-21 | 2000-08-21 | COLORING COMPOSITION FOR DYED KERATINIC FIBERS |
PCT/FR2001/002612 WO2002015855A1 (en) | 2000-08-21 | 2001-08-14 | Bleaching composition for dyed keratinous fibres |
Publications (3)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
EP1313435A1 true EP1313435A1 (en) | 2003-05-28 |
EP1313435B1 EP1313435B1 (en) | 2008-12-03 |
EP1313435B2 EP1313435B2 (en) | 2016-08-10 |
Family
ID=8853612
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
EP01965327.8A Expired - Lifetime EP1313435B2 (en) | 2000-08-21 | 2001-08-14 | Bleaching composition for dyed keratinous fibres |
Country Status (9)
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US (1) | US20050132505A9 (en) |
EP (1) | EP1313435B2 (en) |
JP (1) | JP2004527457A (en) |
AT (1) | ATE416009T1 (en) |
AU (1) | AU2001285992A1 (en) |
DE (1) | DE60136825D1 (en) |
ES (1) | ES2316465T5 (en) |
FR (1) | FR2813016B1 (en) |
WO (1) | WO2002015855A1 (en) |
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- 2001-08-14 EP EP01965327.8A patent/EP1313435B2/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 2001-08-14 US US10/362,077 patent/US20050132505A9/en not_active Abandoned
- 2001-08-14 ES ES01965327.8T patent/ES2316465T5/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 2001-08-14 DE DE60136825T patent/DE60136825D1/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 2001-08-14 WO PCT/FR2001/002612 patent/WO2002015855A1/en active Application Filing
- 2001-08-14 JP JP2002520767A patent/JP2004527457A/en not_active Withdrawn
- 2001-08-14 AU AU2001285992A patent/AU2001285992A1/en not_active Abandoned
- 2001-08-14 AT AT01965327T patent/ATE416009T1/en not_active IP Right Cessation
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Also Published As
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US20040034944A1 (en) | 2004-02-26 |
ES2316465T3 (en) | 2009-04-16 |
FR2813016A1 (en) | 2002-02-22 |
WO2002015855A1 (en) | 2002-02-28 |
US20050132505A9 (en) | 2005-06-23 |
JP2004527457A (en) | 2004-09-09 |
ES2316465T5 (en) | 2017-02-17 |
FR2813016B1 (en) | 2002-10-11 |
DE60136825D1 (en) | 2009-01-15 |
ATE416009T1 (en) | 2008-12-15 |
EP1313435B1 (en) | 2008-12-03 |
EP1313435B2 (en) | 2016-08-10 |
AU2001285992A1 (en) | 2002-03-04 |
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