EP1301170A1

EP1301170A1 - Use and cosmetic compositions of starch betainates

Info

Publication number: EP1301170A1
Application number: EP01954088A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Claude Dubief
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2000-07-21
Filing date: 2001-07-12
Publication date: 2003-04-16
Also published as: FR2811884B1; US20030175230A1; FR2811884A1; AU2001276440A1; JP2004504338A; WO2002007699A1

Abstract

The invention concerns a cosmetic use of at least a starch betainate for treating keratinous matter, in particular keratinous fibres and the skin, comprising said starch betainate combined with at least an agent beneficial for keratinous matter. The invention also concerns a cosmetic treatment method and a use of said composition, in particular as after-shampoo and hairstyling lotion.

Description

USE AND COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS OF HOUSEHOLD BETAINATES

The present invention relates to a cosmetic use of at least one starch betainate, to a composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular keratin fibers and of the skin, comprising this starch betainate associated with a beneficial agent for keratin materials, to a cosmetic treatment process and to a use of this composition.

The hair is generally damaged and weakened by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, and by mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, bleaching, perms and / or dyes. As a result, the hair is often difficult to disentangle or to comb and the hair, even abundant, hardly retains a hairstyle of good appearance due to the fact that the hair lacks vigor and nervousness. Furthermore, the skin can also be altered to varying degrees by the action of atmospheric agents as well as by the repeated action of detergent products. The skin tissue can be burned, the skin becomes dry and rough and loses its natural elasticity. An appearance of dandruff, an excess of seborrhea or conversely an excess of dryness can then be observed.

It is known to protect the hair and the skin from the effects of light by applying water-soluble or non-soluble UV filters, polymeric or not, nanoparticles, antioxidants, metal complexing or chelating agents, or anti-free radical agents. Weakened hair can also be mechanically strengthened by applying certain cationic polymers alone or in admixture with specific electrolytes. To better disentangle and prevent a certain haggardness of the hair, it is also possible to apply to them monomeric or polymeric conditioning agents, water-soluble or not.

Regarding the skin, we combat dryness and roughness by applying moisturizers and / or emollients, as well as anti-dandruff and antiseborrhoeic agents to combat skin disorders.

It is now known that these various raw materials conventionally used in cosmetics to treat hair and / or skin problems, can be formulated as a mixture with cationic polymers in order to enhance the effects or improve their cosmetic performance. . Cationic starches which often appear in the list of cationic polymers of the prior art can be used for this purpose. However, the compositions of the prior art make it possible to solve, to a certain extent, the problems mentioned, but their use is not satisfactory. Indeed, repeated applications of these compositions often have the effect of imparting an unpleasant feel to the hair, a loss of volume and nervousness of the hair, and sometimes a lack of shine.

On the other hand, a persistent oily feel is obtained on the skin, during prolonged rinses.

The Applicant has surprisingly discovered that by using, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one starch betainate in combination with at least one agent beneficial for keratinous materials, these unwanted effects could be avoided.

The term “cosmetically acceptable medium” means a medium compatible with all keratin materials such as the skin, the nails, the hair, the eyelashes and eyebrows, the lips and any other area of the body and of the face, but also of odor, d 'pleasant appearance and touch.

A beneficial agent for keratin materials is an agent capable in particular of protecting, embellishing, conditioning, to treat and / or keep keratin materials, and in particular the hair, in shape.

Said starch betainates are new polymers described in patent application WO 00/15669 from the company Raisio Chemicals OY and in the article "Preparation of starch betainate: a novel cationic starch derivative". They are only known in the field of papermaking and have never been used in cosmetics.

These new starch betainates are prepared from natural products and therefore have the advantage of being biodegradable.

Associated with beneficial agents for keratin materials, they make it possible to improve the performance of cosmetic treatment compositions compared to the combinations of cationic starches and beneficial agents for keratin materials of the prior art.

The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic use of at least one starch betainate.

Another subject of the invention consists of a composition for the treatment of keratin materials comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one starch betainate associated with an agent beneficial for keratin materials.

The subject of the invention is also a method of cosmetic treatment of the hair and the skin using the composition according to the invention. Another subject of the invention consists in using the composition according to the invention, as a shampoo or styling lotion.

Other objects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly on reading the description and the various examples which follow.

The present invention relates to the use in cosmetics of at least one starch betainate corresponding to the following formula: in which St represents a polymeric starch structure.

The starch molecules can come from all vegetable sources of starch such as, in particular corn, potato, oats, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat.

The starch is preferably obtained from the potato.

The starch betainates which can be used according to the present invention, as well as their preparation, are described in particular in the application.

WO 00/15669 and in the article "Preparation of starch betainate: a novel cationic starch derivative". They are prepared from natural products, namely a starch and a betaine as described above.

According to the invention, the composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular keratin fibers and / or of the skin, comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one starch betainate corresponding to the following formula:

in which St represents a polymeric structure of starch, and at least one agent beneficial for keratin materials.

The starch betainates are as described above and they are used in an amount of between 0.01 and 20% by weight, preferably between 0.05 and 10% by weight, better still between 0, 1 and 5 % by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic treatment composition.

Said beneficial agent for keratin materials can be chosen from:

(1) saccharides, oligosaccharides, polysaccharides, hydrolyzed or not, modified or not,

(2) amino acids, oligopeptides, peptides, proteins hydrolyzed or not, modified or not, 3) branched or unbranched fatty acids and alcohols,

4) animal, vegetable or mineral waxes,

5) ceramides and pseudo-ceramides,

6) hydroxylated organic acids,

7) UV filters,

8) antioxidants and anti-free radical agents,

9) chelators,

10) dandruff agents,

1 1) seborreal regulating agents, (12) soothing agents,

[13) cationic surfactants,

[14) cationic, amphoteric polymers,

[15) silicones, organomodified or not,

[16) mineral, vegetable or animal oils, (17) polyisobutenes and poly (cc-olefins),

[18) esters, 19) soluble or dispersed anionic polymers,

[20) soluble or dispersed nonionic polymers, and mixtures thereof. The composition according to the invention may also comprise anionic, nonionic, amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants well known in the art, or their mixtures, in a total amount of less than 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention. The composition according to the invention can comprise one. or several saccharides, oligosaccharides, polysaccharides hydrolyzed or not, modified or not, identical or not. In general, the compounds of this type, which can be used in the present invention, are chosen from those which are in particular described in "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Kirk-Othmer, Third Edition, 1982, volume 3, pp. 896-900 , and volume 15, pp 439-458 ", in" Polymers in Nature, by EA MacGREGOR and CT GREENWOOD, Editions John Wiley & Sons, Chapter 6, pp 240-328, 1980 "and in Industrial Gums - Polysaccharides and their Derivatives, Published by Roy L. WHISTLER, Second Edition, Edition Académie Press Inc. ", the content of these three works being fully included in this application for reference.

As examples of saccharides, oligosaccharides, polysaccharides, hydrolyzed or not, modified or not, which can be used in the invention, mention may in particular be made of glucans, modified or unmodified starches (such as those obtained, for example, from cereals such as wheat, corn or rice, vegetables such as light peas, tubers such as potatoes or cassava) and different from starch betainate as described above, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen dextrans, β-glucans, celluloses and their derivatives (methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, carboxymethylcelluloses), fructosans, inulin, levane, mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitin, glucoronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, galactomannans, glucomannans, pectic acids and pectins, alginic acid and alginates, arabinogalactans, ca rraghénines, agars, glycosaminoglucans, arabic gums, Tragacanth gums, Ghatti gums, Karaya gums, carob gums, guar gums and xanthan gums, and their mixtures.

The composition according to the invention can comprise one or more amino acids, oligopeptides, peptides, proteins hydrolyzed or not, modified or not. As amino acids, there may be mentioned, for example,. cysteine, lysine, alanine, N-phenylalanine, arginine, glycine, leucine, and mixtures thereof. As oligopeptides, peptides, proteins hydrolyzed or not, modified or not, which can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may especially be made of hydrolysates of wool or silk proteins, modified or not , vegetable proteins such as wheat proteins.

The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more branched or unbranched fatty acids and alcohols. Among the fatty acids suitable for the present invention, mention may in particular be made of: carboxylic acids, C8-C _30, such as palmitic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, and mixtures thereof. The fatty alcohols which can be used in the present invention especially comprise C ₈ -C ₃ alcohols such as, for example, palmityl, oleyl, linoleyl, myristylic, stearyl and lauryl alcohols, and their mixtures.

The composition according to the invention can comprise one or more animal, vegetable or mineral waxes.

A wax, within the meaning of the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (about 25 ° C), with reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting temperature above about 40 ° C and which can range up to 200 ° C, and having an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state. In general, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition which comprises them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a homogeneous mixture microscopically, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, the wax is recrystallized from the oils of the mixture, microscopically and macroscopically detectable (opalescence).

As waxes which can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of waxes of animal origin such as beeswax, spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; vegetable waxes such as Carnauba, Candellila, Ouricury, Japanese wax, cocoa butter or cork fiber or sugarcane waxes; mineral waxes, for example, paraffin, petrolatum, lignite or microcrystalline waxes or ozokerites, and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the invention can comprise one or more ceramides and / or pseudo-ceramides. Mention may in particular be made of the ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the classification of DAWNING, and their mixtures, and more particularly N-oleyldehydrosphingosine.

The composition according to the invention can comprise one or more hydroxylated organic acids chosen from those well known and used in the art. Mention may in particular be made of citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid and their mixtures.

The composition according to the invention can comprise one or more sun filters active in UV-A and / or UV-B well known to those skilled in the art. Mention may in particular be made of dibenzoylmethane derivatives such as 4-methyldibenzoylmethane, 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, 4-tert-butyldibenzoylmethane, 2,4-dimethyldibenzoylmethane, 4-tert-butyl-4 '-diisopropyldibhane' p-amino-benzoic acid and its esters such as 2-ethylhexyl p-dimethylaminobenzoate and N-propoxylated ethyl p-aminobenzoate, salicylates such as triethanolamine salicylate, cinnamic acid esters such as. 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxy-cinnamate, methyl diisopropylcinnamate, menthyl anthranilate, benzotriazole derivatives, triazine derivatives, β, β'-diphenylacrylate derivatives such as 2-cyano-3,3 - 2-ethylhexyl diphenylacrylate and ethyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, benzophenone derivatives, benzylidene-camphor derivatives, filters silicone, etc., and mixtures thereof.

As antioxidants and anti-free radical agents which can be used in the present invention, there may be mentioned, for example, ascorbic acid, ascorbylated compounds such as ascorbyl dipalmitate, t-butylhydroquinone, polyphenols such than phloroglucinol, sodium sulfite, erythorbic acid, flavonoids and their mixtures. The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more chelating agents chosen in particular from EDTA (ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid) and its salts such as disodium EDTA and dipotassium EDTA, phosphate compounds such as sodium metaphosphate, hexametaphosphate sodium, the tetrapotassium pyrophosphate, phosphonic acids and their salts such as ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid salts, and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more anti-dandruff agents chosen, for example, from:

- benzethonium chloride, benzalkonium chloride, chlorhexidine, chloramine T, chloramine B, 1,3-dibromo-5,5-dimethylhydantoin, 1,3-dichloro 5,5-dimethylhydantoin, 3- bromo 1-chloro 5,5-dimethylhydantoin, N-chlorosuccinimide; - derivatives of l-hydroxy-2-pyridone such as, for example, l-hydroxy-4-methyl-2-pyridθne, l-hydroxy-6-methyl-2-pyridone and l-hydroxy-4, 6-dimethyl-2-pyridone;

- trihalogenocarbamides;

- triclosan; - azole compounds such as climbazole, ketoconazole, clotrinazole, econazole, isoconazole and miconazole b;

- antifungal polymers such as amphotericin B or nystatin;

- selenium sulfides; sulfur in its various forms, cadmium sulphide, allantoin, coal tar or wood tar and their derivatives in particular, cade oil, undecylenic acid, fumaric acid, allylamines such as terbinafine;

- or a mixture of these dandruff agents. They can also be used in the form of their physiologically acceptable acid addition salts, in particular in the form of salts of sulfuric, nitric, thiocyanic, hydrochloric, hydrobromic, hydroiodic, phosphoric, acetic, benzoic, glycolic, aceturic or succinic acids. , nicotinic, tartaric, maleic, palmitic, methane sulfonic, propanoic, 2-oxopropanoic, propanedioic, 2-hydroxy-l, 4-butanedioic, 3-phenyl-2-propenoic, α-hydroxybenzene acetic, ethanesulfonic, 2-hydroxyethanesulfonic, 4- methylbenzenesulfonic, 4-amino-2- hydroxybenzoic, 2-phenoxybenzoic, 2-acetyloxybenzoic, picric, lactic, citric, malic, oxalic and amino acids.

The anti-dandruff agents mentioned above can also optionally be used in the form of their physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic base addition salts. Examples of organic bases are in particular low molecular weight alkanolamines such as ethanolamine, diethanolamine, N-ethylethanolamine, triethanolamine, diethylaminoethanol, 2-amino-2-methylpropanedione; non-volatile bases such as ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, cyclohexylamine, benzylamine, N-methylpiperazine; quaternary ammonium hydroxides, for example, trimethylbenzyl hydroxide; guanidine and its derivatives, and in particular its alkylated derivatives. Examples of inorganic bases are in particular the salts of alkali metals, such as sodium or potassium; ammonium salts, alkaline earth metal salts, such as magnesium, calcium; the cationic di, tri or tetravalent metal salts, such as zinc, aluminum and zirconium. Alkanolamines, ethylenediamine and inorganic bases such as the alkali metal salts are preferred.

The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more seborrhea regulating agents such as succinylchitosan and poly-β-alanine, and their mixtures

The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more soothing agents such as azulene and glycyrrhetinic acid, and their mixtures.

The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more cationic surfactants well known per se, such as the salts of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated; quaternary ammonium salts such as chlorides or bromides of tetraalkylammonium, alkylamidoalkyl-trialkylammonium, trialkylbenzylammonium, trialkylhydroxyalkylammonium or alkylpyridinium; imidazoline derivatives; or amine oxides of a cationic nature. The composition according to the invention can comprise one or more cationic polymers. By "cationic polymer" is meant any polymer containing cationic groups and / or groups which can be ionized into cationic groups.

1 The cationic polymers which can be used in accordance with the present invention can be chosen from all those already known per se as improving the cosmetic properties of hair treated with detergent compositions, namely in particular those described in patent application EP-A-0 337 354 and in French patent applications FR-A-2 270 846, 2 383 660, 2 598 611, 2 470 596 and 2 519 863.

The preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those which contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups which can either be part of the main polymer chain, or be carried by a lateral substituent directly connected thereto.

The cationic polymers used generally have an average molecular weight between 500 and 5.10 ⁶ approximately, ^'and preferably between 10 ³ and 3.10 ⁶ approximately.

Among the cationic polymers, mention may more particularly be made of polymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and quaternary polyammonium type. These are known products.

The polymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide, quaternary polyammonium type, which can be used in the composition of the present invention, are those described in French patents Nos ^. 2 505 348 and 2 542 997. Among these polymers, mention may be made of:

(1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from esters or amides of acrylic or methacrylic acid;

(2) derivatives of cellulose ethers comprising quaternary ammonium groups described in French patent 1,492,597; (3) cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,131,576, such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl-celluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyl-trimethylammonium, of methacrylamidopropyl-trimethylammonium or of dimethyldiallylammonium;

(4) the cationic polysaccharides described more particularly in US patents 3,589,578 and 4,031,307 such as guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups;

(5) polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene groups with straight or branched chains, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the products of oxidation and / or quaternization of these polymers. Such polymers are described in particular in French patents 2,162,025 and 2,280,361;

(6) water-soluble polyaminoamides, such as those described in particular in French patents 2 252 840 and 2 368 508;

(7) polyaminoamide derivatives, for example, adipic acid / diakylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylene-triamine polymers in which the alkyl group contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes a methyl, ethyl, propyl group and the alkylene group comprises 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and preferably denotes the ethylene group. Such polymers are described in particular in French patent 1,583,363.

(8) polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group, with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 atoms of carbon. The molar ratio between the polyalkylene polylamine and the dicarboxylic acid being between 0.8: 1 and 1.4: 1; the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide of between 0.5: 1 and 1.8: 1. Such polymers are described in particular in the patents American 3,227,615 and 2,961,347; (9) alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers such as the dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride homopolymer and copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide; (10) quaternary diammonium polymers having a number average molecular weight generally between 1000 and 100,000, such as those described, for example, in French patents 2,320,330, 2,270,846, 2,316,271, 2,336,434 and 2,413,907 and US Patents 2,273,780, 2,375,853, 2,388,614, 2,454,547, 3,206,462, 2,261,002, 2,271,378, 3,874,870, 4,001,432, 3,929,990, 3,966,904 , 4 005 193,

4,025,617, 4,025,627, 4,025,653, 4,026,945 and 4,027,020;

(11) quaternary polyammonium polymers such as those described in particular in patent application EP-A-122 324;

(12) quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, such as, for example, the products sold under the names Luviquat ^® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by BASF;

(13) polyamines such as Polyquart ^® H sold by HENKEL, referenced under the name of "POLYETHYLENEGLYCOL (15) TALLOW POLYAMINE" in the CTFA dictionary;

(14) crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy (C -.- C) tri (Cι -C ₄₎ alkylammonium salts such as those sold under the name Salcare ^® SC 92, Salcare ^® SC 95 and Salcare ^® SC 96 by the company ALLIED COLLOIDS; and their mixtures.

Other cationic polymers which can be used in the context of the invention are cationic proteins or hydrolysates of cationic proteins, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, polyamine and epichlorohydrin condensates, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.

Among the cationic polymers mentioned above, suitable in the invention, use is preferably made of cellulose ether derivatives. quaternaries, cationic cyclopolymers, quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the invention can comprise one or more amphoteric polymers. The amphoteric polymers which can be used in accordance with the invention can be chosen from polymers comprising units B and C distributed statistically in the polymer chain where B denotes a unit deriving from a monomer comprising at least one basic nitrogen atom and C denotes a unit deriving from an acidic monomer comprising one or more carboxylic or sulphonic groups or alternatively B and C can denote groups deriving from zwitterionic monomers of carboxybétaines or sulphobetaines; B and C can also denote a cationic polymer chain comprising primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, in which at least one of the amine groups carries a carboxylic or sulphonic group linked via a hydrocarbon group, or although B and C form part of a chain of a polymer with an ethylene-α, β-dicarboxylic unit, one of the carboxylic groups of which has been caused to react with a polyamine comprising one or more primary or secondary amine groups.

The amphoteric polymers corresponding to the definition given above, which are more particularly preferred, are chosen from the following polymers:

1) polymers resulting from the copolymerization of a monomer derived from a vinyl compound carrying a carboxylic group such as more particularly acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, alpha-chloroacrylic acid, and d 'a basic monomer derived from a substituted vinyl compound containing at least one basic atom such as more particularly the dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylate and acrylate, the dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylamide and acrylamide. Such compounds are described in US Pat. No. 3,836,537. Mention may also be made of the sodium acrylate / acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer. sold under the name POLYQUART ^® KE 3033 by the company HENKEL.

The vinyl compound can also be a dialkyldiallylammonium salt such as diethyldiallylammonium chloride.

The copolymers of acrylic acid and the latter monomer are offered under the names Merquat ^® 280, Merquat 295 and Merquat ^® ^® Plus 3330 by Calgon.

(2) polymers comprising units derived from: a) at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides or methacrylamides substituted on nitrogen with an alkyl group, b) from at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more carboxylic groups reactants, and c) at least one basic comonomer such as esters with primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituents of acrylic and methacrylic acids, and the quaternization product of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate.

The N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides which are more particularly preferred according to the invention are groups in which the alkyl groups contain from 2 to 12 carbon atoms and more particularly N-ethylacrylamide, N-tertiobutylacrylamide,

N-tertiooctylacrylamide, N-octylacrylamide. N-decylacrylamide, N-dodecylacrylamide and the corresponding methacrylamides.

The acid comonomers are chosen more particularly from acrylic, methacrylic, crotonic, itaconic, maleic, fumaric acids as well as alkyl monoesters having 1 to 4 carbon atoms of maleic or fumaric acids or anhydrides. The preferred basic comonomers are aminoethyl, butylaminoethyl, N.N'-dimethylaminoethyl, N-tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylates. On The copolymers whose CTFA (4th edition, 1991) is octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer such as the products sold under the name or Lovocryl AMPHOMER® ^® ^® 47 by the company National Starch. (3) crosslinked and alkylated polyaminoamides partially or totally derived from polyaminoamides of general formula:

-CO-R ₁₀ - CO-Z- (II) in which R ₁₀ represents a divalent group derived from a saturated dicarboxylic acid, from a mono or dicarboxylic acid with ethylene double bond, from an ester of an alkanol lower having 1 to 6 carbon atoms of these acids or of a group deriving from the addition of any one of said acids with a primary bis or bis secondary derivative, and Z denotes a group of a polyalkylene polyamine bis - primary, mono or bis-secondary and preferably represents: a) in the proportions of 60 to 100% by moles, the group

-NH - ^ (CH ₂ ) _X -NH- (III) ^J P where x = 2 and p = 2 or 3, or else x = 3 and p = 2 this group deriving from diethylene triamine, triethylene- tetraamine or dipropylene triamine; b) in the proportions of 0 to 40 mol%, the group (III) above, in which x = 2 and p = 1 and which derives from ethylenediamine, or the group deriving from piperazine

/ \

- N N-

\ /

c) in the proportions of 0 to 20 mol%, the group

-NH- (CH ₂ ) ₆ -NH- derived from hexamethylenediamine, these polyaminoamines being crosslinked by addition of a bifunctional crosslinking agent chosen from epihalohydrins, diepoxides, dianhydrides, bis unsaturated derivatives, using 0.025 to 0.35 mole of crosslinking agent per amino group of polyaminoamide and alkylated by the action of acrylic acid, chloracetic acid or an alkanesultone or their salts.

The saturated carboxylic acids are preferably chosen from acids having 6 to 10 carbon atoms such as adipic, 2,2,4-trimethyladipic and 2,4,4-trimethyladipic, terephthalic acids, acids with ethylenic double bonds such as, for example, acrylic, methacrylic, itaconic acids. The alkanesultones used in the alkylation are preferably propane- or butane-sultone, the salts of the alkylating agents are preferably the sodium or potassium salts.

(4) polymers comprising zwitterionic units of formula:

in which R _n denotes a polymerizable unsaturated group such as an acrylate, methacrylate, acrylamide or methacrylamide group, y and z each represent an integer from 1 to 3, R ₁₂ and R ₁₃ represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl group , ethyl or propyl, R ₁₄ and R ₁₅ represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group in such a way that the sum of the carbon atoms in R and R ₁₅ does not exceed 10.

The polymers comprising such units can also comprise units derived from non-zwitterionic monomers such as acrylate or methacrylate of dimethyl- or diethylaminoethyl, or acrylates or methacrylates of alkyl, acrylamides or methacrylamides, or vinyl acetate .

For example, there may be mentioned methyl methacrylate copolymer and dimethylcarboxymethylammonioethyl methyl ethylmethacrylate such as the product sold under the name Diaformer Z301 ^® by the company Sandoz. (5) polymers derived from chitosan containing monomer units corresponding to the following formulas: the motif (V) being present in proportions of between 0 and 30%, the motif (VI) in proportions of between 5 and 50% and the motif (VII) in proportions of between 30 and 90%, it being understood that in this motif F, R ₁₆ represents a group of formula:

in which if q = 0, .R ₁₇ , R _lg and R ₁₉ , identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, hydroxyl, acetoxy or amino residue, a monoalkylamine residue or a dialkylamine residue optionally interrupted by a or more nitrogen atoms and / or optionally substituted by one or more amino, hydroxyl, carboxyl, alkylthio, sulfonic group, an alkylthio residue in which the alkyl group carries an amino residue, at least one of the groups R ₁₇ , R ₁₈ and R ₁₉ being in this case a hydrogen atom; or if q = 1, R _17> R ₁₈ and R ₁₉ each represent a hydrogen atom, as well as the salts formed by these compounds with bases or acids.

(6) Polymers derived from the N-carboxyalkylation of chitosan, such as N-carboxymethyl-chitosan or N-carboxybutyl chitosan sold under the name EVALSAN ^® by the company Jan Dekker.

(7) The polymers corresponding to the general formula (IX) described for example, in French patent 1,400,366: x)

in which R ₂₀ represents a hydrogen atom, a CH ₃ O group, CH ₃ CH ₂ O, phenyl, R ₂₁ denotes hydrogen or a lower alkyl group such as methyl, ethyl, R ₂₂ denotes hydrogen or a lower alkyl group such as methyl, ethyl, R ₂₃ denotes a lower alkyl group such as methyl, ethyl or a group corresponding to the formula: -R ₂₄ -N (R ₂₂ ) ₂ , R ₂₄ representing a group -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -, R ₂₂ having the meanings mentioned above, as well as the higher homologs of these groups and containing up to 6 atoms of carbon.

(8) Amphoteric polymers of the type -D-X-D-X- chosen from: a) the polymers obtained by the action of chloracetic acid or sodium chloroacetate on the compounds comprising at least one unit of formula:

-D-X-D-X-D- (X) where D denotes a group

and X denotes the symbol E or E ', E or E', which may be identical or different, denote a bivalent group which is a straight or branched chain alkylene group containing up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain unsubstituted or substituted by hydroxyl groups, and may also contain oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur atoms, 1 to 3 aromatic and / or heterocyclic rings; the oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms being present in the form of ether, thioether, sulfoxide, sulfone, sulfonium, alkylamine, alkenylamine groups, hydroxyl groups, benzylamine, amine oxide, quaternary ammonium, amide, imide, alcohol, ester and / or urethane. b) The polymers of formula:

-D-X-D-X- (XI) where D denotes a group

/ \

-N N-

\ /

and X denotes the symbol E or E 'and at least once E'; E having the meaning given above and E 'is a bivalent group which is a straight or branched chain alkylene group having up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, whether or not substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups and comprising a or more nitrogen atoms, the nitrogen atom being substituted by an alkyl chain optionally interrupted by an oxygen atom and necessarily having one or more carboxyl functions or one or more hydroxyl functions and betainized by reaction with chloracetic acid or sodium chloracetate.

(9) (C ₁ -C ₅ ) alkyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers partially modified by semiamidification with a

N, N-dialkylaminoalkylamine such as N, N-dimethylaminopropylamine or by semiesterification with an N, N-dialcanolamine These copolymers can also contain other vinyl comonomers such as vinylcaprolactarne. The amphoteric polymers which are particularly preferred according to the invention are those of the family (1).

The silicones which can be used in accordance with the invention may be soluble or insoluble in the composition, and they may be in in particular polyorganosiloxanes insoluble in the composition of the invention; they can be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.

Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter NOLL's book "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones"

(1968) Academy Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 ° C. and 260 ° C., and more particularly still from: (i) cyclic silicones containing from 3 to 7 silicon atoms and, preferably, 4 to 5. It is, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name of "VOLATILE SILICONE 7207" by UNION CARBIDE or "SILBIONE 70045 V 2" by RHODIA, the decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name of "VOLATILE SILICONE 7158" by UNION CARBIDE, "SILBIONE

70045 V 5 "by RHODIA, as well as their mixtures.

Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as the "SILICONE VOLATILE FZ 3109" sold by the company UNION CARBIDE, with a chemical structure.

D-D'- -D-D'-

CH, E CH ₃

with D: —Si-O— with D ': -Si— O -

CH ₃ C _a H ₁₇

Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic silicones with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1, 1 '-

(hexa-2,2,2 ', 2', 3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane;

(ii) linear volatile silicones having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5.10 ^"6 m ² / s at

25 ° C. It is, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name "SH 200" by the company TORAY SILICONE. Silicones included in this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics".

Among the non-volatile silicones, mention may in particular be made of polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, gums and silicone resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified by organofunctional groups and their mixtures.

The organomodified silicones which can be used in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon group.

Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising:

- polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally comprising alkyl groups, C ₆ -C ₂₄ such as the products known as dimethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils Silwet ^® L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 71 1 from the company UNION CARBIDE and the (Ci2) -methicone-copolyol alkyl sold by the company DOW CORNING under the name Q2 5200;

- substituted or unsubstituted amino groups, such as the products sold under the name GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company GENESEE or the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and DOW CORNING 929 or 939 by the company DOW CORNING. The substituted amino groups are in particular aminoalkyl groups Cι-C ₄ ;

- thiol groups, such as the products marketed under the names "GP 72 A" and "GP 71" from GENESEE;

- alkoxylated groups, such as the product sold under the name "SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755" by SWS

SILICONES and ABIL WAX ^® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT; - hydroxylated groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes with a hydroxyalkyl function described in French patent application FR-A-85 16334.

- Acyloxyalkyl groups such as, for example, the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent US-A-4957732.

- Anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type such as, for example, in the products described in patent EP 186 507 from the company CHISSO CORPORATION, or of the alkyl carboxylic type such as those present in the product X-22-3701E from the company SHIN -ETSU; 2- hydroxyalkylsulfonate; 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfate such as the products sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the names "ABIL ^® S201" and "ABIL ^® S255".

- hydroxyacylamino groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in application EP 342 834. Mention may be made, for example, of the product Q2-8413 from the company Dow Corning.

The composition according to the invention can comprise one or more mineral, vegetable or animal oils. Mention may in particular be made, as oils of vegetable origin, of sweet almond oil, avocado oil, castor oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil. , wheat germ oil, sesame oil, peanut oil, grape seed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, safflower oil, coconut oil, corn oil, hazelnut oil, shea butter, palm oil, apricot kernel oil, calophyllum oil; as oil of animal origin, perhydrosqualene; as oils of mineral origin, paraffin oil and petrolatum oil; and their mixtures.

The composition according to the invention can comprise one or more polyisobutenes and poly (α-olefins), chosen from those well known in the art. The composition according to the invention can comprise one or more esters. As examples, mention may in particular be made of fatty acid esters such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, oil, Purcellin (octanoate stearyl), isononyl or isostearyl isononanoate, isopropyl lanolate, and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more soluble or dispersed anionic polymers, well known per se. The anionic polymers generally used in the present invention are polymers comprising groups derived from carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphoric acids, and having a molecular weight by weight of between 500 and 5,000,000.

The carboxylic groups are provided by monoacid or unsaturated dicarboxylic acid monomers such as those corresponding to the formula:

in which n is an integer from 0 to 10, A denotes a methylene group, optionally linked to the carbon atom of the unsaturated group or to the neighboring methylene group when n is greater than 1, via a heteroatom such as oxygen or sulfur, R _x denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl or benzyl group, R ₂ denotes a hydrogen atom, a lower alkyl or carboxyl group, R ₃ denotes a hydrogen atom, a lower alkyl group, a group -CH ₂ -COOH, phenyl or benzyl.

In formula (XII) above, a lower alkyl group preferably contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and denotes in particular the methyl and ethyl groups.

The anionic polymers with carboxylic groups preferred according to the invention are:

A) homo- or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid or their salts, in particular the products sold under the names VERSICOL ^® E or K by the company Allied Colloid, Ultrahold ^® by the company BASF copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide sold in the form of their sodium salt under the names Reten ^® 421, 423 or 425 by the company Hercules, the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids. B) Copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids with a monoethylenic monomer such as ethylene, styrene, vinyl esters, esters of acrylic or methacrylic acid, optionally grafted on a polyalkylene glycol such as polyethylene glycol, and possibly crosslinked. Such polymers are described in particular in French patent 1 222 944 and German application No. 2 330 956, copolymers of this type comprising in their chain an acrylamide unit, optionally N-alkylated and / or hydroxyalkylated as described in particular in Luxembourg patent applications 75370 and 75371 or offered under the name

QUADRAMER ^® by the company AMERICAN CYANAMID. May also be mentioned the copolymers of acrylic acid and alkyl methacrylate -C ₄ and the copolymer of methacrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate sold under the name Luvimer ^® MAEX by BASF.

C) copolymers derived from crotonic acid such as those comprising in their chain vinyl acetate or propionate units, and optionally other monomers such as the allyl or methallyl ester, vinyl ether or vinyl ester of a saturated carboxylic acid, linear or branched, with a long hydrocarbon chain, such as those comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, these polymers possibly being grafted and crosslinked, or alternatively a vinyl, allylic or methallylic ester of an α or β-cyclic carboxylic acid. Such polymers are described inter alia in French patents numbers 1 222 944, 1 580 545, 2 265 782, 2 265 781, 1 564 110 and 2 439 798. Commercial products falling into this class are resins 28-29- 30, 26- 13-14 and 28- 13-10 sold by the company NATIONAL STARCH.

D) Polymers derived from maleic, fumaric or itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters; these polymers can be esterified. Such polymers are described in particular in US Patents 2,047,398, 2,723,248, 2,102,113, GB patent 839,805, and in particular those sold under the Gantrez ^® AN or ES by the company ISP denominations.

Polymers also falling into this class are the copolymers of maleic, citraconic, itaconic anhydrides and an allylic or methallylic ester optionally comprising an acrylamide, methacrylamide group, an α-olefin, acrylic or methacrylic esters, acrylic or methacrylic acids or vinylpyrrolidone in their chain, the anhydride functions are monoesterified or monoamidified. These polymers are for example described in French patents 2 350 384 and 2 357 241 of the applicant.

E) The _. polyacrylamides comprising carboxylate groups.

The polymers comprising the sulfonic groups are polymers comprising vinylsulfonic, styrene-sulfonic, naphthalene-sulfonic or acrylamido-alkylsulfonic units.

These polymers can in particular be chosen from:

the salts of polyvinylsulfonic acid having a molecular mass of between approximately 1,000 and 100,000 as well as the copolymers with an unsaturated comonomer such as acrylic or methacrylic acids, and their esters, as well as acrylamide or its derivatives, vinyl ethers and vinylpyrrolidone;

- salts of polystyrenesulfonic acid, the sodium salts having a molecular weight of about 500,000 and about 100,000 sold respectively under the names Flexan 500 and Flexan ^® ^® 130 by

National Starch. These compounds are described in patent FR 2198719;

- polyacrylamide-sulphonic acid salts such as those mentioned in US Patent 4 128 63 1, and the polyacrylamidoethylpropanesulphonic acid sold under the name Cosmedia Polymer HSP 1180 by Henkel ^®.

According to the invention, anionic polymers are preferably chosen from acrylic acid copolymers such as the terpolymer acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butylacrylamide sold under the name ULTRAHOLD STRONG by the company BASF ^®, the copolymers derived from crotonic acid such as the vinyl acetate / vinyl tert-butylbenzoate / crotonic acid terpolymers and the crotonic acid / vinyl acetate / vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold under the name Resin 28-29-30 by the company NATIONAL STARCH , polymers derived from maleic acid or anhydride, fumaric acid, itaconic acid with vinyl esters, vynyliques ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters, such ^* that the methyl vinyl ether / monoesterified maleic anhydride sold under the name GANTREZ ^® ES 425 by the company ISP, the copolymers of methacrylic acid and methyl methacrylate sold under the name EUDRAGIT ^® L by the company ROHM PHARMA, the copolymer of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate sold under the name LUVIMER ^® MAEX by BASF, the vinyl acetate / crotoniq copolymer eu sold under the name

LUVISET ^® CA 66 by the company BASF and the vinyl acetate / crotonic acid / polyethylene glycol terpolymer under the name ARISTOFLEX ^® A by the company BASF.

The most particularly preferred anionic polymers are chosen from the methyl vinyl ether / monoesterified maleic anhydride copolymer sold under the name Gantrez ^® ES 425 by the company ISP, copolymers of methacrylic acid and of methyl methacrylate sold under the name Eudragit ^® L by ROHM PHARMA, the copolymer of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate sold under the name LUVIMER ^® MAEX by the company

BASF, the vinylpyrrolidone / acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate terpolymer sold under the name Acrylidone ^® LM by the company ISP.

According to the invention, it is also possible to use the anionic polymers in the form of latex or of pseudolatex, that is to say in the form of an aqueous dispersion of particles of insoluble polymers.

According to the invention, the anionic polymer (s) can represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 15% by weight. weight, and even more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, of the total weight of the final composition.

The composition according to the invention can comprise one or more soluble or dispersed nonionic polymers. As nonionic polymers which can be used according to the present invention, there may be mentioned in particular:

- vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers;

- copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate;

- polyalkyloxazolines such as polyethyloxazolines by Dow Chemical under the names Peox ^® 50000,

PEOX ^® 200,000 and PEOX ^® 500,000;

- vinyl acetate homopolymers such as the product offered under the name of APPRETAN ^® EM by the company HOECHST or the product offered under the name of RHODOPAS ^® A 012 by the company RHONE POULENC;

- vinyl acetate copolymers and acrylic ester, such as the product sold under the name Rhodopas AD 310 ^® from Rhône-Poulenc;

- vinyl acetate copolymers and ethylene as the product sold under the name Appretan of ^® TV by the company Hoechst;

- vinyl acetate copolymers and maleic ester, for example of dibutyl maleate, such as the product sold under the Appretan MB Extra name ^® by the company Hoechst;

- copolymers of polyethylene and maleic anhydride; - homopolymers of alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylate homopolymers, such as the product sold under the name Micropearl RQ 750 ^® by the company Matsumoto or the product sold under the name Luhydran ^® A 848 S by the company BASF; - acrylic ester copolymers such as, for example, alkyl acrylates and copolymers of alkyl methacrylates such as the products sold by the company Rohm & Haas under the names Primal AC-261 K ^® and EUDRAGIT ^® NE 30 D, by the company BASF under the names ACRONAL ^® 601, LUHYDRAN ^® LR 8833 or 8845, by the company HOECHST under the names APPRETAN ^® N 9213 or N921 2;

- copolymers of acrylonitrile and of a nonionic monomer chosen, for example, from butadiene and alkyl (meth) acrylates; include the products provided under the names Nipol ^® LX 531 8 by Nippon Zeon or those provided under the name CJ 0601 8 by the company Rohm &Haas; polyurethanes, such as the products provided under the names Acrysol ^® RM 1020 or Acrysol ^® RM 2020 by Rohm & Haas, URAFLEX products ^® XP 401 UZ,

URAFLEX ^® XP 402 UZ by the company DSM RESINS;

- copolymers of alkyl acetate and urethane such as the product 8538-33 by the company NATIONAL STARCH;

- polyamides such as the product ESTAPOR ^® LO 11 by Rhone-Poulenc;

- chemically modified or unmodified nonionic guar gums.

Gums nonionic unmodified guar are, for example, the products sold under the name VIDOGUM ^® GH 175 by Unipectine and under the name Jaguar ^® C MEYHALL.

The modified nonionic guar gums which can be used according to the invention are preferably modified with hydroxyalkyl groups at -. Mention may be made, by way of example, of the hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

These guar gums are well known in the art and can, for example, be prepared by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, such as, for example, propylene oxides, with guar gum so to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.

Such gums guar nonionic optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are, for example, sold under the trade names Jaguar ^® HP8, Jaguar HP60 ^® and JAGUAR ^® HP120, JAGUAR ^® DC 293 and JAGUAR ^® HP 105 by the company MEYHALL, or under the name GALACTASOL ^® 4H4FD2 by the company AQUALON.

The alkyl groups of the nonionic polymers preferably contain from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

The composition for treating keratin materials according to the invention may contain one or more of the agents beneficial for the keratin materials described above, ^" in a total amount of between 0.01 and 30% by weight, preferably between 0.05 and 25% by weight, better still between 0.1 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic treatment composition.

The cosmetically acceptable medium may consist solely of water or of a mixture of water and a cosmetically acceptable solvent such as a lower alcohol in C 1 -C _4, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert -butanol, n-butanol; alkylene glycols such as propylene glycol, glycol ethers.

The pH of the compositions according to the invention is between 4 and 8, preferably between 5 and 7.

The compositions according to the invention can also contain additives such as natural or synthetic polymeric thickeners, anionic, amphoteric, zwitteronic, nonionic or cationic, associative or not, nonpolymeric thickeners such as acids or electrolytes, nacrants, opacifiers, organic solvents, perfumes, dyes, mineral or organic particles, preservatives, pH stabilizers.

A person skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additives and their quantity so that they do not harm the properties of the treatment compositions. These additives are present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The compositions can be in the form of fluid or thickened liquids, gels, creams, foams, waxes, W / O, O / W emulsions or multiple emulsions.

They can be used as shampoos, rinse-out or leave-in care, deep care masks, scalp treatment lotions or creams, mascaras, make-up removers, hair or skin coloring products, sun protection products ...

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method which consists in applying an effective amount of a composition as described above, to the hair, in performing a possible rinsing after a possible pause time.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition can be used as a conditioner or as a styling lotion. The following examples illustrate the present invention and should not be considered in any way as limiting the invention.

Example 1 A conditioner according to the invention was prepared from the following ingredients:

- Starch betainate of degree of substitution 0.8 0.5 g

- Behenyl-trimethylammonium chloride 1.5 g - Mixture (80/20) of cetyl stearyl alcohol and oxyethylenated cetyl stearyl alcohol (33 oxyethylene units) 4 g

- Water qs 100 g

After rinsing, the hair is soft and easy to untangle.

Example 2

A conditioner according to the invention was prepared from the following ingredients: Starch betainate of degree of substitution 0.8 0.5 g

Behenyltrimethylammonium chloride 1.5 g

N-oleyl-dihydrosphingosine 0.5 g

Water qs 100 g

After rinsing, the hair is smooth and easy to untangle.

Example 3 A styling lotion was prepared from the following ingredients:

- Starch betainate of degree of substitution 0, 8 0.5 g

- Vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate terpolymer, 37% solution in ethanol and sold under the name ADVANTAGE ^® HC 37 by ISP 0.5 g

- Water, perfume, preservative qs 100 g pH 6

After drying, the hair is soft, nervous and can be styled easily.

Claims

1. Use in cosmetics of at least one starch betainate corresponding to the following formula:

in which St represents a polymeric starch structure.

2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the starch comes from corn, potato, oats, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat.

3. Composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, characterized in that it comprises at least one starch betainate corresponding to the following formula:

4. Composition according to claim 3, characterized in that the starch comes from corn, potato, oats, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat.

5. Composition according to claim 3 or 4, characterized in that the beneficial agent for keratin materials is chosen from:

(2) amino acids, oligopeptides, peptides, proteins hydrolyzed or not, modified or not. (3) branched and unbranched fatty acids and alcohols,

(4) animal, vegetable or mineral waxes,

(5) ceramides and pseudo-ceramides,

(6) hydroxylated organic acids, (7) UV filters,

(8) antioxidants and anti-free radical agents,

(9) chelators,

(10) dandruff agents, (11) seborreal regulators,

(12) soothing agents,

(13) cationic surfactants,

(14) cationic, amphoteric polymers,

(15) organomodified or unorganized silicones, (16) mineral, vegetable or animal oils,

(17) polyisobutenes and poly (α-olefins),

(18) esters,

(19) soluble or dispersed anionic polymers,

(20) soluble or dispersed nonionic polymers, and mixtures thereof.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 3 to 5, characterized in that it further comprises anionic, nonionic, amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants, or their mixtures, in a total amount of less than 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that the saccharides, the oligosaccharides, the hydrolyzed polysaccharides or not, modified or not, are chosen from glucans, modified or unmodified starches, different from said starch betainate, amylose , amylopectin, glycogen dextrans, β-glucans, celluloses and their derivatives, fructosans, inulin, levane, mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitin, glucoronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, galactomannans, glucomannans, pectic acids and pectins, alginic acid and alginates, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars, glycosamino-glucans, gum arabics, Tragacanth gums, Ghatti gums, Karaya gums, locust bean gums, guar gums, xanthan gums and mixtures thereof.

8. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that the amino acids, the oligopeptides, the peptides, the hydrolyzed proteins or not, modified or not, are chosen from cysteine, lysine, alanine, N-phenylalanine, arginine, glycine, leucine, and mixtures thereof.

9. Composition according to claim 5 characterized in that the branched or unbranched fatty acids and alcohols contain from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and are chosen from palmitic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, acid myristic, stearic acid, lauric acid, palmityl, oleyl, linoleyl, myristyl, stearyl and lauryl alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

10. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that the animal, vegetable or mineral waxes are chosen from beeswax, spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; Carnauba, Candellila, Ouricury, Japanese wax, cocoa butter or cork or sugar cane fiber waxes; paraffin, petrolatum, lignite or microcrystalline or ozokerite waxes, and mixtures thereof.

11. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that the ceramides and pseudo-ceramides are chosen from ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification, and their mixtures.

12. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that the hydroxylated organic acids are chosen from citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid and their mixtures.

13. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that the UV filters are chosen from dibenzoylmethane derivatives, p-amino-benzoic acid and its esters, salicylates, cinnamic acid esters, benzotriazole derivatives, triazine derivatives, β, β'-diphenylacrylate derivatives, 2-phenyl-benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, benzophenone derivatives, benzylidene-camphor derivatives, silicone filters, and their mixtures.

14. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that the antioxidants and the anti-free radical agents are chosen from ascorbic acid, ascorbylated compounds, t-butylhydroquinone, polyphenols, sodium sulfite, erythorbic acid, flavonoids and their mixtures.

15. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that the chelating agents are chosen from EDTA and its salts, phosphate compounds, phosphonic acids and their salts, and their mixtures.

16. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that the dandruff agents are chosen from:

- benzethonium chloride, benzalkonium chloride, chlorhexidine, chloramine T, chloramine B, 1,3-dibromo-5,5-dimethylhydantoin, 1,3-dichloro 5,5-dimethylhydantoin, 3- bromo 1-chloro 5,5-dimethylhydantoin, N-chlorosuccinimide; - derivatives of l-hydroxy-2-pyridone;

- trihalogenocarbamides;

- triclosan;

- azole compounds;

- antifungal polymers; - selenium sulfides;

- sulfur in different forms;

- or a mixture of these dandruff agents.

17. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that the seborrhea regulating agents are chosen from succinylchitosan and poly-β-alanine, and their mixtures.

18. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that the soothing agents are chosen from azulene and glycyrrhetinic acid and their mixtures.

19. Composition according to Claim 5, characterized in that the cationic surfactants are chosen from the salts of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated; quaternary ammonium salts such as chlorides or bromides of tetraalkylammonium, of alkylamidoalkyl-trialkylammonium, of trialkylbenzylammonium, of trialkylhydroxyalkyl- ammonium or alkylpyridinium; imidazoline derivatives; amine oxides of a cationic nature; and their mixtures.

20. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that the cationic polymers are chosen from quaternary cellulose ether derivatives, cationic cyclopolymers, cationic polysaccharides, quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, and their mixtures.

21. The composition as claimed in claim 5, characterized in that the organomodified or non-organomodified silicones are soluble or insoluble in the composition and are chosen from volatile silicones such as cyclic silicones comprising from 3 to 7 silicon atoms, the linear silicones having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5.10 ^"5 m / s at 25 ° C; non-volatile silicones such as polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, gums and silicone resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified by organofunctional groups such as polyethyleneoxy and / or propyleneoxy groups, substituted or unsubstituted amino groups, thiol, alkoxylated or hydroxyl groups, acyloxyalkyl groups, hydroxyacylamino carboxylic acid, as well as their mixtures.

22. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that the mineral, vegetable or animal oils are chosen from paraffin oil, petrolatum oil, sweet almond oil, avocado oil, l castor oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil, sesame oil, peanut oil, seed oil grape, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, safflower oil, coconut oil, corn oil, hazelnut oil, shea butter, palm oil, apricot kernel oil, oil, calophyllum, perhydrosqualene, and mixtures thereof.

23. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that the esters are chosen from fatty acid esters such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, Purcellin oil (octanoate stearyl), isononanoate isononyl or isostearyl, isopropyl lanolate, and mixtures thereof.

24. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that. that the soluble or dispersed anionic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising groups derived from carboxylic, sulphonic or phosphoric acids, and having a molecular weight by weight of between 500 and 5,000,000; and their mixtures.

25. Composition according to claim, 5, characterized in that the soluble or dispersed nonionic polymers are chosen from vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers; vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate copolymers; polyalkyloxazolines; vinyl acetate homopolymers; copolymers of vinyl acetate and acrylic ester; copolymers of vinyl acetate and ethylene; copolymers of vinyl acetate and maleic ester; polyethylene and maleic anhydride copolymers; homopolymers of alkyl acrylates and homopolymers of alkyl methacrylates; copolymers of acrylic esters; copolymers of acrylonitrile and butadiene or of alkyl (meth) acrylate; polyurethanes; copolymers of alkyl acetate and urethane; polyamides; chemically modified or unmodified nonionic guar gums; and their mixtures.

26. Composition according to any one of claims 3 to

25, characterized in that it comprises the starch betainate in an amount between 0.01 and 20% by weight, and the beneficial agent for keratin materials in an amount between 0.01 and

30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

27. Composition according to any one of claims 3 to

26, characterized in that it further comprises additives such as thickeners, pearlescent agents, opacifiers, organic solvents, perfumes, dyes, mineral or organic particles, preservatives and pH stabilizers.

28. Composition according to any one of claims 3 to

27, characterized in that it is in the form of shampoos.

29. Cosmetic treatment method, characterized in that a composition according to any one of claims 3 to 28 is applied to the hair.

30. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 3 to 28, as a conditioner.

31. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 3 to 28, as a styling lotion.