EP1169018A1 - Kosmetische zubereitungen - Google Patents
Kosmetische zubereitungenInfo
- Publication number
- EP1169018A1 EP1169018A1 EP00929338A EP00929338A EP1169018A1 EP 1169018 A1 EP1169018 A1 EP 1169018A1 EP 00929338 A EP00929338 A EP 00929338A EP 00929338 A EP00929338 A EP 00929338A EP 1169018 A1 EP1169018 A1 EP 1169018A1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- acid
- cationic
- alkyl
- esters
- contain
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Withdrawn
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Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
- A61K8/604—Alkylpolyglycosides; Derivatives thereof, e.g. esters
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/41—Amines
- A61K8/416—Quaternary ammonium compounds
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
- A61K8/645—Proteins of vegetable origin; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/736—Chitin; Chitosan; Derivatives thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/737—Galactomannans, e.g. guar; Derivatives thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
Definitions
- the invention is in the field of cosmetics and relates to preparations which contain special esters of hydroxycarboxylic acids together with cationic compounds, and to the use of the mixtures for the production of cosmetic preparations.
- cationic compounds the substantive properties of which can be used both in hair treatment for conditioning, antistatic treatment and a reduction in combing work, and to improve the sensory properties, in particular the soft feel of the skin.
- monomeric compounds which are typical cationic surfactants, and polymers are suitable for this purpose.
- the object of the invention was therefore to use cationic compounds to provide new cosmetic preparations which are distinguished from the prior art in particular by improved skin and hair softening and reduced combing work. Description of the invention
- the invention relates to cosmetic preparations containing
- the addition of the special hydroxycarboxylic acid esters to the cationic compounds which are preferably (b1) monomeric cationic surfactants and in particular esterquats, and / or (b2) cationic polymers, leads to improved substantivity, which is particularly true results in reduced combing work and improved antistatic equipment. At the same time, skin and hair are given an improved soft feel.
- esters of hydroxycarboxylic acids and alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides which form component (a) are known nonionic surfactants which follow the formula (I),
- X represents hydrogen or a CH2COOR 3 group
- Y represents hydrogen or a hydroxyl group
- R 1 , R 2 and R 3 independently of one another represent hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, hydroxyalkylammonium, glucammonium or the rest an alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside of the formula (II),
- R 4 is an alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms
- G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms
- p is a number from 1 to 10
- Y is hydrogen and at least one of the radicals R 1 , R 2 and R 3 represents a glycoside radical.
- the acid component of the nonionic surfactants can be derived from malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid and their mixtures. Depending on the number of hydroxyl groups present in the acid component, mono-, di- or triesters and their technical mixtures can be present. However, preference is given to using monoesters or mixtures with a high monoester content, which can be obtained by a person skilled in the art in accordance with the teaching of EP 0258814 B1 already mentioned.
- the alkyl and / or alkenyl oligogiycoside component can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose.
- the preferred nonionic surfactants are thus esters of alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides.
- the index number p in the general formula (II) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides, and stands for a number between 1 and 10.
- the value p for a certain alkyl oligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetic parameter, which usually represents a fractional number.
- Esters are preferably used whose alkyl and / or alkenyl oligogiycoside component has an average degree of oligomerization p of 1.1 to 3.0. From an application point of view, preference is given to those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside esters whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4.
- the alkyl or alkenyl radical R 1 can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, capro alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, such as are obtained, for example, in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the course of the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis.
- the alkyl or alkenyl radical R 1 can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14, carbon atoms.
- Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, which can be obtained as well as their technical mixtures.
- Alkyl oligoglucoside esters based on hardened C-i2 / ⁇ 4 coconut are preferred. alcohol with a DP of 1 to 3. Such products are commercially available under the Eucarol® brand.
- the invention includes the knowledge that mixtures of hydroxycarboxylic acid alkyl and / or alkenyl glycoside esters and alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides together with cationic compounds show particularly good performance properties. In the simplest case, such further preparations can be prepared by mixing the three components. In a particular embodiment of the invention, however, cationic compounds are used together with hydroxycarboxylic acid glycoside esters which still contain 1 to 50, preferably 5 to 25 and in particular 10 to 15% by weight of unesterified glycosides.
- the cationic compounds which form component (b) are monomeric cationic surfactants, preferably those which are commercially available under the name esterquats.
- esterquats This generally means quaternized fatty acid triethanolamine ester salts.
- These are known substances that can be obtained using the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry.
- German patent DE 4308794 C1 also discloses a process for the preparation of solid ester quats, in which the quaternization of triethanolamine esters is carried out in the presence of suitable dispersants, preferably fatty alcohols.
- suitable dispersants preferably fatty alcohols.
- R 5 CO for an acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
- R 6 and R 7 independently of one another for hydrogen or R 5 CO
- R 8 for an alkyl radical with 1 to 4 carbon atoms or one (CH2CH2 ⁇ ) q H group
- m, n and p in total for 0 or numbers from 1 to 12, q for numbers from 1 to 12 and X for halide, alkyl sulfate or alkyl phosphate.
- ester quats which can be used in the context of the invention are products based on caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, isostearic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, arachic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures , as they occur, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils.
- Technical Ci2 / i8 coconut fatty acids and in particular partially hardened C16 / 18 tallow or palm fatty acids as well as high elaidic acid Ci6 / 18 fatty acid cuts are preferably used.
- the fatty acids and the triethanolamine can be used in a molar ratio of 1.1: 1 to 3: 1 to produce the quaternized esters.
- an application ratio of 1.2: 1 to 2.2: 1, preferably 1.5: 1 to 1.9: 1 has proven to be particularly advantageous.
- the preferred esterquats are technical mixtures of mono-, di- and triesters with an average degree of esterification of 1.5 to 1.9 and are derived from technical Cie / i ⁇ -tallow or palm fatty acid (iodine number 0 to 40).
- quaternized fatty acid triethanolamine ester salts of the formula (III) have proven to be particularly advantageous in which R 5 CO for an acyl radical having 16 to 18 carbon atoms, R 6 for R CO, R 7 for hydrogen, R 8 for a methyl group, m, n and p is 0 and X is methyl sulfate.
- quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines of the formula (IV) are also suitable as esterquats.
- R 5 CO represents an acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
- R 6 represents hydrogen or R 5 CO
- R 8 and R 9 independently of one another for alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms
- m and n in total for 0 or numbers of 1 to 12
- X represents halide, alkyl sulfate or alkyl phosphate.
- suitable ester quats are the quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxy-propyldialkylamines of the formula (V)
- ester quats it is also possible to use tetraalkylammonium compounds, which are usually referred to as quaternary ammonium compounds (QAV) and preferably follow the formula (VI)
- R 14 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical with 12 to 22 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical
- R 14 and R 15 independently of one another for R 12 or an optionally hydroxy-substituted alkyl radical with 1 to 10 carbon atoms
- X represents halide, alkyl sulfate or alkyl phosphate.
- Typical examples are dimethyldistearylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or benzyltrimethylammonium chloride.
- the cationic compounds which form component (b) can be polymers.
- Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, such as, for example, a quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose, which is available under the name Polymer JR 400® from Amerchol, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole Polymers such as Luviquat® (BASF), condensation products of polyglycols and nurses, quaternized collagen polypeptides such as lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat®L / Grunau), quaternized wheat polypeptides polyethyleneimine, cationic
- BASF Luviquat®
- Silicone polymers such as amidomethicones, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylamino-hydroxypropyldiethylenet ⁇ amm (Cartaret ⁇ ne® / Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyl-diallylammonium chloride (Merquat® 550 / Chemv ⁇ ron), polyaminopolyamides, as described in FR.225, as described in FR Polymers, cationic chitin derivatives such as, for example, quaternized chitosan, optionally microcrystalline, condensation products of dihaloalkylene, such as, for example, dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, such as, for example, bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane, cationic guar gum, such as, for example, Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16 from Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers such as Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol®
- the preparations can contain components (a) and (b) in a weight ratio of 11 to 10 1.
- the cationic compounds are monomeric cationic surfactants, the use ratio is preferably 1 1 to 5 1, while in the case of cation polymers rather higher operating ratios, such as 5 1 to 10 1, are used.
- the mixtures of components (a) and (b) are usually present in the preparations in amounts of 0.5 to 20, preferably 1 to 15 and in particular 2 to 10 Wt .-% - based on the means - included
- the preparations according to the invention which contain the special hydroxycarboxylic acid esters together with the cationic compounds, especially the monomeric cationic surfactants and / or the cationic polymers, lead to a lasting improvement in the wet and dry combability, the antistatic finish and the sensory assessment of skin and
- Another object of the invention therefore relates to the use of the mixtures for the production of cosmetic preparations in which they are present in amounts of 0.5 to 20, preferably 1 to 15 and in particular 5 to 10% by weight, based on the composition can
- the mixtures according to the invention can be used for the production of cosmetic preparations, such as, for example, hair shampoos, hair lotions, bubble baths shower baths, creams, gels, lotions, alcoholic and water / alcoholic solutions, emulsions, wax / fat compositions, stick Serve preparations powders or ointments
- cosmetic preparations such as, for example, hair shampoos, hair lotions, bubble baths shower baths, creams, gels, lotions, alcoholic and water / alcoholic solutions, emulsions, wax / fat compositions, stick Serve preparations powders or ointments
- These agents can also be used as further auxiliaries and additives, mild surfactants, oil emulsifiers, superfatting agents, pearlescent waxes, consistency agents, thickeners, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, stabilizers, biogenic agents, deodorants, antidandruff agents, film formers, swelling agents, UV light protection factors, Contain antioxidants, hydrotrope
- Suitable mild, ie particularly skin-compatible, surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, monoglycene sulfates, mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid esters, fatty acid glutamates, ⁇ -olefin sulfonucs, alkyl amide, fatty amides, fatty amides, carboxamides or protein fatty acid condensates, the latter preferably based on wheat proteins
- Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with linear C&C22 fatty alcohols, esters of branched C6-C 3 carboxylic acids with linear C ⁇ -C are examples of oil bodies ⁇ fatty alcohols, such as My ⁇ stylmyristat, My ⁇ stylpalmitat, My ⁇ stylstearat, My ⁇ stylisostearat, myristyl, My ⁇ styl- behenate, My ⁇ stylerucat, Cetylmynstat, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, Cetylisostearat, cetyl oleate, Ce tylbehenat, Cetylerucat, Stearylmyristat, Stearyipalmitat, stearyl stearate, Stearylisostearat, Steary - loleat, sostearylisostearat stearyl,
- esters of linear C ⁇ -C ⁇ fatty acids with branched alcohols in particular 2-ethylhexanol
- esters of hydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols in particular dioctyl malates
- esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol
- polyhydric alcohols such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol
- Guerbet alcohols T ⁇ glycende based on C ⁇ -Cio fatty acids
- esters of C6-C 2 2 fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids in particular benzoic acid
- Suitable emulsifiers are nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups:
- alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and their ethoxylated analogs
- polystyrene resin e.g. Polyglycerol polyricinoleate, polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate or polyglycerol dimer isostearate. Mixtures of compounds from several of these classes of substances are also suitable;
- partial esters based on linear, branched, unsaturated or saturated C6 / 22 fatty acids, ricinoleic acid as well as 12-hydroxystearic acid and glycerin, polyglycerin, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (e.g. sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (e.g. methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside , Lauryl glucoside) and polyglucosides (eg cellulose);
- Glycerol carbonate The adducts of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols, glycerol mono- and diesters as well as sorbitan mono- and diesters of fatty acids or with castor oil are known, commercially available products. These are homolog mixtures, the middle of which Degree of alkoxylation corresponds to the ratio of the amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and substrate with which the addition reaction is carried out. Ci2 / ⁇ s fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of ethylene oxide with glycerol are known from DE 2024051 PS as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations.
- C ⁇ / is alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides
- their preparation and their use are known from the prior art. They are produced in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols with 8 to 18 carbon atoms.
- the glycoside residue both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar residue is glycosidically bonded to the fatty alcohol and oligomeric glycosides with a degree of oligomerization of up to about 8 are suitable.
- the degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean value which is based on a homolog distribution customary for such technical products.
- Zwitterionic surfactants can also be used as emulsifiers.
- Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule.
- Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut acylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkylmethyl-carboxylate -3-hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate.
- betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate
- Suitable emulsifiers are ampholytic surfactants.
- Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C ⁇ / i ⁇ -alkyl or -acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SOßH group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts.
- ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycine, N-alkylpropionic acid, N-alkylaminobutyric acid, N-alkyliminodipropionic acid, N-hydroxyethyl-N-aikylamidopropylglycine, N-alkyltaurine, N-alkyl sarcosine, 2-alkylaminopropionic acid and alkylamino acetic acid each with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group.
- Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylamino propionate and Ci2 / i8-acylsarcosine.
- Substances such as, for example, lanolin and lecithin and polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides can be used as superfatting agents, the latter simultaneously serving as foam stabilizers.
- Pearlescent waxes are: alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol distearate; Fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; Partialglyce ⁇ de, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; Esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; Fatty substances, such as, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, which have a total of at least 24 carbon atoms, especially lauron and distearyl ether; Fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides with 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols with 2 to 15 carbon atoms
- Suitable consistency agents are primarily fatty alcohols or hydroxy fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and, in addition, partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxy fatty acids.
- a combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methyl glucamides of the same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates is preferred.
- Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil types (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, and also higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates, ( e.g.
- surfactants such as ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrow homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosulfide and electrolytes such as ammonium chloride and ammonium chloride.
- Suitable anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers are, for example, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / Vinylacryiat copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and esters thereof, uninjured and polyol-crosslinked polyacrylic acids, acrylamidopropyl - Trimethyiammonium chloride / acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxyproyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacryl
- Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenyipolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and ammo-, fatty acid-, alcohol-, polyether-, epoxy-, fluorine-, glycoside- and / or alkyl-modified silicone compounds, which can be both liquid and resinous at room temperature.
- Simethicones which are mixtures of dimethicones with an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates, are also suitable.
- a detailed overview of suitable volatile silicones can also be found by Todd et al. in Cosm.Toil. 91, 27 (1976).
- fats are glycides
- waxes include natural waxes, such as Candelilla wax, carnauba wax, japan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice-germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, walnut, lanolin (wool wax), pretzel fat, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes chemically modified waxes (hard waxes), e.g. Montanester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes, such as Polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes in question.
- natural waxes such as Candelilla wax, carnauba wax, japan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice-germ oil wax
- sugar cane wax ouricury wax
- Metal salts of fatty acids such as e.g. Magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate are used.
- Biogenic active substances are, for example, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, deoxyribonucic acid, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts and vitamine complexes.
- Antiperspirants such as aluminum chlorohydates are suitable as deodorant active ingredients. These are colorless, hygroscopic crystals that easily dissolve in the air and arise when aqueous aluminum chloride solutions are evaporated.
- Aluminum chlorohydrate is used in the manufacture of antiperspirant and deodorant preparations and is likely to act by partially occluding the sweat glands through protein and / or polysaccharide precipitation [cf. J. Soc. Cosm.Chem. 24, 281 (1973)].
- an aluminum chlorohydrate that corresponds to the formula [Al2 (OH) 5CI] * 2.5 H2O and whose use is particularly preferred is commercially available under the brand Locron® from Hoechst AG, Frankfurt / FRG [cf.
- esterase inhibitors can be added as further deodorant active ingredients. These are preferably trialkyl citrates such as methyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and in particular triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT, Henkel KGaA, Düsseldorf / FRG). The substances inhibit enzyme activity and thereby reduce odor. The cleavage of the citric acid ester probably releases the free acid, which lowers the pH value on the skin to such an extent that the enzymes are inhibited.
- trialkyl citrates such as methyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and in particular triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT, Henkel KGaA, Düsseldorf / FRG).
- the substances inhibit enzyme activity and thereby reduce odor.
- the cleavage of the citric acid ester probably releases the free acid, which lowers the pH value on
- esterase inhibitors include sterol sulfates or phosphates, such as, for example, lanosterol, cholesterol, campesterin, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and their esters, such as, for example, glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, and glutaric acid diethyl ester , Adipic acid, adipic acid monoethyl ester, adipic acid diethyl ester, malonic acid and malonic acid diethyl ester, hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters such as citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or tartaric acid diethyl ester.
- sterol sulfates or phosphates such as, for example, lanosterol, cholesterol, campesterin, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate
- dicarboxylic acids and their esters such as, for example, glutaric
- Antibacterial agents that influence the bacterial flora and kill sweat-killing bacteria or inhibit their growth can also be contained in the stick preparations. Examples of these are chitosan, phenoxyethanol and chlorhexidine gluconate. 5-Chloro-2- (2,4-dichlorophen-oxy) phenol, which is sold under the Irgasan® brand by Ciba-Geigy, Basel / CH, has also proven to be particularly effective.
- Climbazole, octopirox and zinc pyrethione can be used as antidandruff agents.
- Common film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salts and similar compounds.
- Montmorillonites, clay minerals, pemulene and alkyl-modified carbopol types can serve as swelling agents for aqueous phases. Further suitable polymers or swelling agents can be found in the overview by R. Lochhead in Cosm.Toil. 108, 95 (1993).
- UV light protection factors are understood to mean, for example, organic substances (light protection filters) which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and absorb the energy absorbed in the form of longer-wave radiation, e.g. To give off heat again.
- UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances e.g. to call:
- 3-benzylidene camphor or 3-benzylidene norcampher and its derivatives e.g. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor as described in EP 0693471 B1;
- 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and amyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate;
- Esters of cinnamic acid preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate-2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene) 4-methoxycinnamate;
- Esters of salicylic acid preferably salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid 4-isopropyl benzyl ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester;
- benzophenone preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2J'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophehone;
- Esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate
- Triazine derivatives e.g. 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine and octyl
- Propane-1,3-dione e.g. 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione;
- Ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane derivatives as described in EP 0694521 B1.
- Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene) sulfonic acid and their salts.
- UV-A filters -4'-methoxy-dibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789), or 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione.
- the UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in mixtures.
- insoluble light protection pigments namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, are also suitable for this purpose.
- suitable metal oxides are, in particular, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and, in addition, oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium and mixtures thereof.
- Silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc stearate can be used as salts.
- the oxides and salts are used in the form of the pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions and decorative cosmetics.
- the particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They can have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use particles which have an ellipsoidal shape or shape which differs from the spherical shape in some other way.
- the pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobicized.
- Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides such as titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex® T2000 (Merck). Silicones, and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones, are particularly suitable as hydrophobic coating agents. So-called micro- or nanopigments used. Micronized zinc oxide is preferably used. Further suitable UV light protection filters can be found in the overview by P.Finkel in S ⁇ FW-Journal 122, 543 (1996).
- secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type can also be used, which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin.
- Typical examples include amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carosin and their derivatives (e.g. Anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g.
- ⁇ -carotene, ß-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracii and other thiols (e.g.
- thioredoxin glyutathione, Cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, ⁇ -linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g.
- buthioninsulfoximines homocysteine sulfoximine, butioninsulfones, penta-, hexa-, himinathionine sulfoxin) n very low tolerable doses (e.g. pmol to ⁇ mol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. ⁇ -hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), ⁇ -hydroxy acids
- Hydrotropes such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols can also be used to improve the flow behavior.
- Poiyols which come into consideration here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups.
- the polyols can also contain further functional groups, in particular amino groups, or be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are • glycerin;
- Alkylene glycols such as, for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons;
- Methyl compounds such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;
- Lower alkyl glucosides in particular those with 1 to 8 carbons in the alkyl radical, such as methyl and butyl glucoside;
- Sugar alcohols with 5 to 12 carbon atoms such as sorbitol or mannitol,
- Aminosugars such as glucamine
- Dialcohol amines such as diethanolamine or 2-amino-1, 3-propanediol.
- Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid and the other classes of substances listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Ordinance.
- N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1, 2-pentanediol or 3535 insect repellants are suitable as insect repellants, and dihydroxyacetone is suitable as a self-tanning agent.
- Perfume oils include mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, Oranges), roots (mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), wood (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme), Needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, mountain pine), resins and balms (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax).
- Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethyl methylphenyl glycinate, allyl cyclohexyl benzylatepylpionate, allyl cyclohexyl propyl pionate.
- the ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and Bourgeonal, to the ketones eg the Jonone, oc-isomethytionone and methylcedryl ketone, to the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol.
- the aldehydes for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and Bourgeonal, to the ketones eg the Jonone, oc-isomethytionone and methylcedryl ketone, to the
- fragrance oils of low volatility which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, e.g. sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil.
- the dyes which can be used are those substances which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes, as compiled, for example, in the publication "Cosmetic Dyes” by the Dye Commission of the German Research Foundation, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the mixture as a whole.
- germ-inhibiting agents are preservatives with a specific action against gram-positive bacteria, such as, for example, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether, chlorhexidine (1,6-di- (4-chlorophenyl-biguanido) hexane) or TCC (3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide).
- gram-positive bacteria such as, for example, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether, chlorhexidine (1,6-di- (4-chlorophenyl-biguanido) hexane) or TCC (3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide).
- Numerous fragrances and essential oils also have antimicrobial properties.
- Typical examples are the active ingredients eugenol, menthol and thymol in clove, mint and thyme oil.
- terpene alcohol farnesol (3,7, 11-trimethyl yl-2,6, 10-dodecatrien-1-ol), which is present in the linden blossom oil and has a lily of the valley smell.
- Glycerol monolaurate has also proven itself as a bacteriostatic.
- the proportion of the additional germ-inhibiting agents is usually about 0.1 to 2% by weight, based on the solids content of the preparations.
- the total proportion of auxiliaries and additives can be 1 to 50, preferably 5 to 40,% by weight, based on the composition.
- the agents can be produced by customary cold or hot processes; the phase inversion temperature method is preferably used. Examples
- Dry combability was examined with the approval of electrostatic charging. A relative humidity of 20% was set. The conditioning time was 12 h at 30 ° C. The measurement was carried out using the charge tapping on a double Faraday cage after 10 combs. The error in the measurements was 2.5% on average, the statistical certainty was at least 99.9%.
Abstract
Description
Claims
Applications Claiming Priority (3)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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DE1999116209 DE19916209C2 (de) | 1999-04-10 | 1999-04-10 | Kosmetische Zubereitungen |
DE19916209 | 1999-04-10 | ||
PCT/EP2000/003014 WO2000061103A1 (de) | 1999-04-10 | 2000-04-05 | Kosmetische zubereitungen |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
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EP1169018A1 true EP1169018A1 (de) | 2002-01-09 |
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ID=7904129
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EP00929338A Withdrawn EP1169018A1 (de) | 1999-04-10 | 2000-04-05 | Kosmetische zubereitungen |
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EP (1) | EP1169018A1 (de) |
JP (1) | JP2002541179A (de) |
AU (1) | AU4746300A (de) |
DE (1) | DE19916209C2 (de) |
WO (1) | WO2000061103A1 (de) |
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DE10361854A1 (de) * | 2003-12-23 | 2005-07-28 | Beiersdorf Ag | Kosmetische Zubereitung zur Pflege des Haares, enthaltend Lauroyl Lysine |
JP5629427B2 (ja) * | 2008-10-31 | 2014-11-19 | コグニス・アイピー・マネージメント・ゲゼルシャフト・ミット・ベシュレンクテル・ハフツングCognis IP Management GmbH | 毛髪処理組成物 |
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IT1213330B (it) * | 1986-08-28 | 1989-12-20 | Rol Spa | Tensioattivi derivati da idrossiacidi bi- o tri-carbossilici. |
DE4108626A1 (de) * | 1991-03-16 | 1992-09-17 | Basf Ag | Citronensaeure-ester von polyhydroxyverbindungen und ihre verwendung in wasch- und reinigungsmitteln |
FR2785800B1 (fr) * | 1998-11-12 | 2002-11-29 | Oreal | Compositions cosmetiques contenant un tensioactif d'alkylpolyglycoside anionique, une gomme de galactomannane et leurs utilisations |
FR2785794B1 (fr) * | 1998-11-12 | 2002-11-29 | Oreal | Compositions cosmetiques contenant un tensioactif ester d'alkylpolyglycoside anionique et un polymere cationique et leurs utilisations |
-
1999
- 1999-04-10 DE DE1999116209 patent/DE19916209C2/de not_active Expired - Fee Related
-
2000
- 2000-04-05 EP EP00929338A patent/EP1169018A1/de not_active Withdrawn
- 2000-04-05 WO PCT/EP2000/003014 patent/WO2000061103A1/de not_active Application Discontinuation
- 2000-04-05 AU AU47463/00A patent/AU4746300A/en not_active Abandoned
- 2000-04-05 JP JP2000610436A patent/JP2002541179A/ja active Pending
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AU4746300A (en) | 2000-11-14 |
WO2000061103A1 (de) | 2000-10-19 |
DE19916209C2 (de) | 2001-08-09 |
DE19916209A1 (de) | 2000-10-19 |
JP2002541179A (ja) | 2002-12-03 |
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