EP1152735A1

EP1152735A1 - Cosmetic compositions containing a quaternary silicon and a pearling agent and their uses

Info

Publication number: EP1152735A1
Application number: EP00979711A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Mireille Maubru; Bernard Beauquey
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 1999-12-08
Filing date: 2000-11-10
Publication date: 2001-11-14
Also published as: WO2001041719A1; FR2802087A1; JP2003516332A; AU1571600A

Abstract

The invention relates to novel cosmetic compositions containing the following in a cosmetically suitable medium: at least one opacifier and/or pearling agent and at least one silicon of type (AB)n, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a block comprising at least two quaternary ammonium radicals. This association provides improved cosmetic properties (lightness, volume). These compositions are used in particular for washing and/or conditioning substances containing keratin, such as hair or skin.

Claims

COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS CENTERING A QUATERNIZED SILICONE AND A NACRANT AGENT AND USES THEREOF

The present invention relates to new cosmetic compositions comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium at least one opacifying and / or pearlescent agent and at least one particular quaternary polyammonium silicone.

Pearlizing agents and / or opacifiers are commonly used in cosmetic compositions, in particular detergent compositions such as shampoos in order to give the latter a pearly appearance, preferred by the consumer. It has been found that these pearlescent agents do not confer satisfactory conditioning properties on the hair.

There is therefore a need for a detergent cosmetic composition, in particular a shampoo, which has a pearly and / or opacified appearance while making it possible to obtain acceptable cosmetic performances in terms of keratin materials, namely in particular the hair and the scalp; and more particularly in terms of the lightness, softness and feel of the hair.

It has also been recommended to improve the conditioning properties of hair products to use cosmetic compositions for the treatment of hair containing a silicone of type (AB) n, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a block comprising at least two ammonium groups. quaternary. These compositions however do not yet give complete satisfaction with regard to the properties of lightness imparted to the hair. In summary, it turns out that these cosmetic compositions are not completely satisfactory.

The Applicant has discovered, surprisingly, that it was possible to formulate cosmetic compositions for treating keratin materials, in particular 0 shampoos having a pearly and / or opacified appearance while having the desired aesthetic and cosmetic properties, by using in these compositions a pearling and / or opacifying agent associated with a silicone of type (AB) n, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a block comprising at least two quaternary ammonium groups. Indeed, it has been found that the use of said silicone allows to obtain satisfactory cosmetic properties on keratin materials, and in particular the hair, in particular by making them lighter

Furthermore, the compositions of the invention applied to the skin, in particular in the form of a bubble bath or shower gel, provide an improvement in the softness of the skin.

Thus, according to the present invention, new cosmetic compositions are now proposed, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one quaternary polyammonium silicone defined below and at least one pearling and / or opacifying agent

Another subject of the invention relates to the use of a quaternary polyammonium silicone defined below in, or for the manufacture of a cosmetic composition comprising a pearling and / or opacifying agent

The different objects of the invention will now be detailed. All of the meanings and definitions of the compounds used in the present invention given below are valid for all of the objects of the invention.

Quaternary polyammonium silicones consist of repeating units of the following general formula (I)

in which 'R1, R2, R3, R4, identical or different, represent a C1-C4 alkyl radical, preferably methyl

- X and X ', identical or different, represent a divalent organic group which is linked to the adjacent silicon atom by a carbon-silicon bond and to a nitrogen atom, and which comprises at least 4 carbon atoms and one hydroxyl group, X or X ′ containing no hererocycle, The term “heterocycle” means any cyclic grouping comprising in the ring at least one heteroatom, a heteroatom being an atom different from hydrogen or carbon

, X and X ', identical or different, are preferably a C ₄ -C ₁₂ hydrocarbon radical optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen More particularly, X and X, identical or different, denote a linear butylene radical or branched, linear or branched hexylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH (OH) CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ 0 CH ₂ CH (OH) CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ 0 CH ₂ CH (CH ₂ OH) -,

-CH ₂ CH (OH) CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -

Oh t

- (CH ₂ ) ₂ - CH -CH ₂ - - (CH ₂ ) ₂ - CH -CH ₂ OH

OH I ι I

- (CH ₂ ) ₃ - CH -CH ₂ - - (CH ₂ ) ₃ - CH -CH ₂ OH

More particularly, X and X, identical or different, are chosen from

-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ 0 CH ₂ CH (OH) CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (OH) CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -

- Y represents a divalent organic group comprising at least two carbon atoms, Y is preferably a C ₂ -C ₁₂ hydrocarbon radical optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen More particularly, Y denotes an ethylene radical, linear propylene or branched, linear or branched butylene, linear or branched hexylene or -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH (OH) CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ OCH ₂ - -CH ₂ CH ₂ N (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₂ - More particularly, Y is chosen from -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₆ - and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ -

A- denotes an organic or mineral anion, such as for example chloride bromide, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, methosulfate sulfate, phosphate

n defines the number of dimethylsiloxane units and is generally a number between 5 and 200 and preferably between 10 and 100 and even more particularly between 15 and 50

m defines the number of blocks AB and is greater than or equal to 1 and preferably between 1 and 10 The weight average molecular weight of the silicone is preferably between 2000 and 1000000 and even more particularly between 3500 and 200000

These quaternary polyammonium silicones are in particular described in patent application EP-A-282720

The quaternary polyammonium silicone is preferably used in an amount of between 0.01 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. More preferably, this amount is between 0.1 and 15% by weight and even more particularly between 0.5 and 10% by weight

The pearlescent and / or opacifying agents of the invention can be chosen from i) esters of polyols having at least two carbon atoms and of long chain fatty acids, preferably in C10-C30 and even more preferably in C16-C22 , These compounds can optionally be oxyethylenated

Among these compounds, mention may in particular be made of ethylene glycol monostearate and ethylene glycol distearate n) long chain fatty acid alkanolamides, preferably C10-C30 and even more preferably C16-C22, such as stearic monoethanolamide , steanic diethanolamide, stean monoisopropanolamide or stean monoethanolamide stearate, nor) esters of long chain monoalcohols (C10-C30) and long chain fatty acids (C10-C30) such as cetyl palmitate, iv) solid long chain fatty alcohol ethers at a temperature less than or equal to about 30 ° C such as for example the dialkyl ethers of formula (II)

ROR '(II) in which R and R', identical or different, denote an alkyl radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 14 to 24 carbon atoms R and R 'being chosen such that the compound of formula (I) is solid at a temperature less than or equal to approximately 30 ^G C More particularly, R and R' denote a stearyl radical These compounds can in particular be prepared according to the process described in request from orevet DE 41 27

230. A distearyl ether which can be used in the context of the present invention is sold under the name CUTINA STE by the company HENKEL; v) long chain esters (C10-C30) of long chain alkanolamides (C10-C30) such as stearamide diethanolamide distearate or stearamide monoethanolamide stearate; vi) monochain fatty alcohols having at least 20 carbon atoms such as behenic alcohol; vii) long chain amine oxides (C10-C30), such as alkyl (C10-C30) dimethyl amino oxides, such as, for example, stearyl dimethyl amino oxide; viii) the benzoic acids N, N-dihydrocarbyl (C10-C30, preferably C12-C22) amido and their salts and in particular the benzoic acid N, N-di (C16-C18) amido sold by the company STEFAN COMPANY; and ix) alcohols having from 27 to 48 carbon atoms and comprising one or two ether and / or thioether or sulfoxide groups corresponding to formula (III): Ra-X- [C2H3 (OH)] - CH2-Y-Rb (III) in which Ra and Rb denote, independently of one another, linear groups in C12 to C24;

X denotes an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom, a sulfoxide or methylene group; Y denotes an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom, a sulfoxide or methylene group; the sum of the number of carbon atoms present in the Ra and Rb groups has a value varying from 24 to 44 and preferably from 28 to 40 inclusive; when X or Y denotes sulfoxide, Y or X does not denote sulfur. The compounds of formula (II) preferably used in accordance with the invention are those for which X denotes oxygen, Y denotes methylene, and Ra and Rb denote radicals having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, these compounds being able to be prepared according to the EP 457 688; and x) coated or uncoated titanium oxides, micas and titanium mica. The pearlescent and / or opacifying agents are preferably chosen from ethylene glycol mono or distearate, distearyl ether, behenic alcohol and 1 (hexadecyloxy) 2-octadecanol and their mixtures

According to the invention, the pearlescent and or opacifying agent can represent from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the final composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition also comprises at least one cationic polymer

Even more generally, within the meaning of the present invention, the expression “cationic polymer” designates any polymer containing cationic groups and / or groups which can be ionized into cationic groups.

The cationic polymers which can be used in accordance with the present invention can be chosen from all those already known per se as improving the cosmetic properties of hair treated with detergent compositions, namely in particular those described in patent application EP-A-0 337 354 and in French patent applications FR-A- 2 270 846, 2 383 660, 2 598 611, 2 470 596 and 2 519 863

The preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those which contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups which can either be part of the main polymer chain or be carried by a lateral substituent directly connected thereto

The cationic polymers used generally have a number-average molecular mass of between 500 and 5 10 ^δ approximately, and preferably between 10 ³ and 3.10 ⁶ approximately.

Among the cationic polymers, mention may be made more particularly of polymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and polyquaternary ammonium type. These are known products. The polymers of the polyamine, polyamidoamide, quaternary polyammonium type, which can be used in accordance with the present invention, which may be mentioned in particular, are those described in French patents No. 2,505,348 or 2,542,997. Among these polymers, mention may be made of:

(1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units of the following formulas:

in which:

R3, identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical; A, identical or different, represent an alkyl group, linear or branched, from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; R4, R5, R _β , identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical and preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

R 1 and R 2, which may be identical or different, represent hydrogen or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and preferably methyl or ethyl,

X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide

The copolymers of the family (1) can also contain one or more units deriving from comonomers which can be chosen from the family of methacrylamide acrylamides, acrylamide diacetones, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on nitrogen by lower alkyls (C1 -C4), acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinyipyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam of vinyl esters

Thus, among these copolymers of the family (1), there may be mentioned

- the copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylammoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulphate or with a dimethyl halide such as that sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company Hercules, - the copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltπmethylammonium chloride described for example in patent application EP-A-080976 and sold under the name BINA QUAT P 100 by the company CIBA GEIGY,

- the copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltmethylammonium methosulfate sold under the name RETEN by the company HERCULES, - the vinyipyrrolidone / acrylate or dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate quaternized or not, such as the products sold under the name "GAFQUAT" ISP company such as "GAFQUAT 734" or "GAFQUAT 755" or the products called "COPOLYMER 845, 958 and 937". These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2,077,143 and 2,393,573, - dimethyl amino ethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinyipyrrolidone terpolymers such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP,

- the vinyipyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyl dimethylamine copolymers sold in particular under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP - And vinyipyrrolidone / methacrylamide dimethylaminopropyl quaternized copolymers such as the product sold under the name "GAFQUAT HS 100" by the company ISP.

(2) Derivatives of cellulose ethers comprising quaternary ammonium groups described in French patent 1 492 597, and in particular the polymers marketed under the names "JR" (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by the Union Carbide Corporation. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose having reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group.

(3) Cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,131,576, such as hydroxyalkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethyl- , hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyl trimethylammonium, of methacrylmidopropyl trimethylammonium, of dimethyl-diallylammonium.

The marketed products meeting this definition are more particularly the products sold under the name "Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by the National Starch Company. ^•

(4) The cationic polysaccharides described more particularly in US patents 3,589,578 and 4,031,307 such as guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups. Guar gums modified with a salt (eg chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium are used, for example.

Such products are marketed in particular under the trade names of JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17 or JAGUAR C162 by the company MEYHALL.

(5) polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals with straight or branched chains, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the oxidation and / or quatemization products of these polymers Such polymers are described in particular in French patents 2 162 025 and 2 280 361

(6) the water-soluble poiyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine, these poiyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydnne, a diepoxide, a dianhydπde, an unsaturated dianhydπde, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydπne, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide or also by an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound reactive with respect to a bis-halohydπne, d a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide, an epilhalohydπne, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative, the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0 35 mole per amine group of the polymaoamide, these poiyaminoamides can be alkylated or if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions, quaternized Such polymers are described in particular in French patents 2 252 840 and 2 36 8,508,

(7) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation by bifunctional agents Mention may be made, for example, of the adipic acid-diacoylaminohydroxyalkylldialoylene tπamine polymers in which the alkyl radical contains from 1 to 4 atoms of carbon and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl, propyl. Such polymers are in particular described in French patent 1,583,363.

Among these derivatives, there may be mentioned more particularly the adipic acid / dimethylammohydroxypropyl / diethylene triamine polymers sold under the name "Cartaretine F, F4 or F8" by the company Sandoz

(8) polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms Le molar ratio between the polyalkylene polylamine and the dicarboxylic acid being between 0.8 1 and 1.4 4, the resulting polyaminoamide being caused to react with epichlorhydπne in a molar ratio of epichlorhydπne relative to the secondary amine group of polyaminoamide of between 0.5: 1 and 1.8: 1. Such polymers are described in particular in American patents 3,227,615 and 2,961,347.

Polymers of this type are in particular sold under the name "Hercosett 57" by the company Hercules Inc. or else under the name of "PD 170" or "Delsette 101" by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid copolymer / epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine.

(9) alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium cyclopolymers such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formulas (IV) or (V):

(CH ₂ ) k (CH ₂ ) k \

- (CH,) t- CR, C (R ₁₂ ) -CH ₂ - - (CH,) t- C (R ₁₂ ) -CH ₂

H ₂ C CH.,

CH ₂

(IV) N + Y-

formulas in which k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1; R-12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; R | Q and R- ^, independently of one another, denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably has 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower amidoalkyl group (C1-C4) or RJ Q and R- ^ may denote jointly with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; Y ^" is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate. These polymers are described in particular in French patent 2,080,759 and in its certificate of addition 2,190,406.

R-I0 and R _{ι π} , independently of one another, preferably denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

Among the polymers defined above, there may be mentioned more particularly the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride sold under the name "Merquat 100" by the company Calgon (and its counterparts with low average molecular weights by weight) and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and of acrylamide marketed under the name "MERQUAT 550"

(10) the quaternary diammonium polymer containing recurring units corresponding to formula (VI)

formula (VI) in which

RL3. Rl4- Rl5 ^e * Rl6 identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic, or arylaliphatic radicals containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or else R13, R-1, R-15 and R ^ Q, together or separately, constitute with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached heterocycles possibly containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen or else R-13, R-14, R15 and R-15 represent a linear C1 -C6 alkyl radical or branched substituted by a nitnl, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R17-D or -CO- NH-R-17-D group where R- | 7 is an alkylene and D a quaternary ammonium group,

A1 and B1 represent polymethylenic groups containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more atoms of oxygen, sulfur or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and

X ^" denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, A1, R13 and R15 can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring, moreover if A1 denotes a linear or branched alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, saturated or unsaturated, B1 can also denote a group (CH2) n-CO-D-OC- (CH2) n-

in which D denotes a) a glycol residue of formula -OZO-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas - (CH2-CH2-O) x-CH2-CH2- - [CH2-CH (CH3) -O] y-CH2-CH (CH3) - where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4 representing a degree of defined and unique polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization, b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazme derivative, c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula -NH- Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or else the bivalent radical

-CH2-CH2-S-S-CH2-CH2-, d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-,

Preferably, X is an anion such as chloride or bromide

These polymers have a number-average molecular mass generally between 1000 and 100,000

Polymers of this type are described in particular in French patents

2,320,330, 2,270,846, 2,316,271, 2,336,434 and 2,413,907 and the US patents 2,273,780,

2,375,853, 2,388,614, 2,454,547, 3,206,462, 2,261,002, 2,271,378, 3,874,870, 4,001,432, 3,929,990, 3,966,904, 4,005 193, 4,025,617, 4,025 627 4,025,653 4,026,945 and 4,027,020

It is possible to use more particularly the polymers which consist of recurring units corresponding to the formula

^R ι R ₃

I I

- N ⁺ (CH ₂ ) _n - N ^ (CH ₂ ) _p - (VII)

There. | λ

R ₂ R ₄

in which R- _] , R2, R3 and R4_, which are identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms approximately, n and p are whole numbers varying from 2 to 20 approximately and, X ^" is a anion derived from a mineral or organic acid A particularly preferred compound of formula (VII) is that for which R- _| , R2, R3 and R4, represent a methyl radical and n = 3, p = 6 and X = Cl, called Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI nomenclature (CTFA).

(11) quaternary polyammonium polymers consisting of units of formula (VIII):

formula in which: R- | s, R19, R20 ^and R21 ', identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl or -CH2CH ₂ (OCH ₂ CH2) pOH radical, where p is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 6, provided that R- _| g, R- | g, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom, r and s, identical or different, are whole numbers between 1 and 6, q is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 34,

X "denotes an anion such as a halide,

A denotes a radical of a dihalide or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.

Such compounds are in particular described in patent application EP-A-122 324.

Mention may for example be made, among these, of the products "Mirapol® A 15", "Mirapol® AD1", "Mirapol® AZ1" and "Mirapol® 175" sold by the company Miranol.

(12) Quaternary polymers of vinyipyrrolidone and vinylimidazole such as for example the products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company B.A.S.F.

(13) Polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by HENKEL, referenced under the name of "POLYETHYLENEGLYCOL (15) TALLOW POLYAMINE" in the CTFA dictionary. (14) Crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl (Cι-C4) trιalkyl (C _π - C4) ammonium salts such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethylmetha with methyl chloride, homo or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylene bis acrylamide It is more particularly possible to use an acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride crosslink copolymer (20/80 by weight ) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil This dispersion is marketed under the name of “SALCARE® SC 92” by the company ALLIED COLLOIDS A crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride can also be used containing about 50% in homopolymer ids in mineral oil or in a liquid ester These dispersions are marketed under the names "SALCARE® SC 95" and "SALCARE® SC 96" by the company ALLIED COLLOIDS

Other cationic polymers which can be used in the context of the invention are cationic proteins or hydrolysates of cationic proteins, polyalkyleneimines in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyndine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and epichlorhydnne, quaternary polyurethanes and chitin derivatives

Among all the cationic polymers capable of being used in the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use quaternary cellulose ether derivatives such as the products sold under the name “JR 400” by the company UNION CARBIDE CORPORATION, cationic cyclopolymers, in particular homopolymers or copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, sold under the names "MERQUAT 100", "MERQUAT 550" and "MERQUAT S" by the company CALGON, quaternary polymers of vinyipyrrolidone and vinylimidazole and their mixtures

According to the invention, the cationic polymer (s) can represent from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight and more particularly from 0 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the final composition According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention also comprise at least one other silicone

The silicones which can be used in accordance with the invention can be soluble or insoluble in the composition and in particular can be polyorganosiloxanes insoluble in the composition, they can be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums

Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter NOLL's book "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968) Académie Press They can be volatile or non-volatile

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 ° C. and 260 ° C., and more particularly still from

(i) cyclic silicones comprising from 3 to 7 silicon atoms and preferably 4 to 5 This is, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name of "VOLATILE SILICONE 7207" by UNION CARBIDE or "SILBIONE 70045 V 2 "by RHONE POULENC, the decamethyicyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name" VOLATILE SILICONE 7158 "by UNION CARBIDE," SILBIONE 70045 V 5 "by RHONE POULENC, as well as their mixtures

Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylakylsiloxane type, such as the "SILICONE VOLATILE FZ 3109" sold by the company UNION CARBIDE, with a chemical structure

- D-D 'D- D' -

CH, CH,

with D ^~ Si-O— with D '-Si -O -

CH ₃ C ₈ H ₁₇

Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic silicones with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1 '(hexa-2,2,2', 2 ', 3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane;

(ii) linear volatile silicones having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5.10 ^"6 m ² / s at 25 ° C. This is, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name" SH 200 "by TORAY SILICONE. Silicones included in this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, P. 27-32 - TODD &BYERS" Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics ".

Use is preferably made of non-volatile silicones and more particularly polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylaryisiloxanes, gums and silicone resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups and their mixtures.

These silicones are more particularly chosen from polyalkylsiloxanes among which mention may mainly be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups having a viscosity of 5.10 ^{~ 6} to 2.5 m ² / s at 25 ° C and preferably 1.10 ^"5 to 1 m ² / s. The viscosity of the silicones is for example measured at 25 ° C. according to standard ASTM 445 Appendix C.

Among these polyalkylsiloxanes, non-limiting mention may be made of the following commercial products:

- SILBIONE oils of series 47 and 70 047 or MIRASIL oils marketed by RHONE POULENC such as, for example, oil 70 047 V 500 000;

- the oils of the MIRASIL series sold by the company RHONE POULENC;

- oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning, such as more particularly DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 Cst; - VISCASIL oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and certain oils from the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC.

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups (Dimethiconol according to the name CTFA) such as oils of the 48 series from the company RHONE POULENC. In this class of polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names "ABIL WAX 9800 and 9801" by the company GOLDSCHMIDT which are polyalkyl (C ^ o) siloxanes.

The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from polydimethyl methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity of 1.10 ⁵ to 5.10 ² m ² / s at 25 ° C.

Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, examples that may be mentioned include the products sold under the following names:

SILBIONE oils of the 70 641 series from RHONE POULENC; oils of the RHODORSIL 70 633 and 763 series from RHONE POULENC; DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING; the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20; the silicones of the PN and PH series from BAYER such as the PN1000 and PH1000 products, certain oils from the SF series of GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023,

SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.

The silicone gums which can be used in accordance with the invention are in particular polydiorganosiloxanes having high number average molecular weights of between 200,000 and 1,000,000 used alone or as a mixture in a solvent. This solvent can be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane oils (PDMS), poly-phenylmethylsiloxane oils (PPMS), isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecanes or their mixtures.

We can more particularly cite the following products

- polydimethylsiloxane

- polydimethylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane gums,

- polydimethylsiloxane / diphenylsiloxane,

- polydimethylsiloxane / phenylmethylsiloxane, - polydimethylsiloxane / diphenylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane. Products more particularly usable in accordance with the invention are mixtures such as the mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane hydroxylated at the chain end (called dimethiconol according to the nomenclature of the CTFA dictionary) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane (called cyclomethicone according to the nomenclature of the CTFA dictionary) such as the product Q2 1401 marketed by the company DOW CORNING, mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane gum with a cyclic silicone such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company GENERAL ELECTRIC this product is a gum SF 30 corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number average molecular weight of 500,000 dissolved in oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, mixtures of two PDMSs of different viscosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from the company GEN ERAL ELECTRIC The product SF 1236 is the mixture of an SE 30 gum defined above having a viscosity of 20 m ² / s and an SF 96 oil with a viscosity of 5 10 ⁶ m ² / s This product contains preferably 15% of SE 30 gum and 85% of an SF 96 oil

The organopolysiloxane resins which can be used in accordance with the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the units

R ₂ Sι0 _2/2 , R ₃ Sι0 _1/2 , RSi0 _3/2 and Sι0 _4/2 in which R represents a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group Among these products, those which are particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a lower alkyl radical in C _r C ₄ , more particularly methyl, or a phenyl radical

Mention may be made, among these resins, of the product sold under the name "DOW CORNING 593" or those sold under the names "SILICONE FLUID SS 4230 and SS 4267" by the company GENERAL ELECTRIC and which are silicones of dimethyl / tπmethyl siloxane structure

Mention may also be made of resins of the tπmethylsiloxysilicate type sold in particular under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by the company SHIN-ETSU The organo modified silicones which can be used in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon radical

Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising

- polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally comprising C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl groups such as the products called dimethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils SILWET L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 71 1 from the company UNION CARBIDE and the alkyl (C ₁₂ ) methicone copolyol marketed by the company DOW CORNING under the name Q2 5200,

- substituted or unsubstituted amino groups such as the products marketed under the name GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company GENESEE or the products marketed under the names Q2 8220 and DOW CORNING 929 or 939 by the company DOW CORNING The substituted amino groups are in particular aminoalkyl groups at 0, -0 ₄ ,

- thiol groups such as the products marketed under the names "GP 72 A" and "GP 71" from GENESEE,

- alkoxylated groups such as the product sold under the name "SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755" by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT,

- hydroxylated groups such as polyorganosiloxanes with a hydroxyalkyl function described in French patent application FR-A-85 16334

- acyloxyalkyl groups such as for example the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent US-A-4957732

- anionic groups of the carboxylic type, for example in the products described in patent EP 186 507 from the company CHISSO CORPORATION, or of the alkylcarboxylic type, such as those present in the product X-22-3701 E of the SHIN-ETSU, 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate, 2-hydroxyalkyfthιosulfate such as the products sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the names "ABIL S201" and "ABIL S255"

- hydroxyacylamino groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in application EP 342 834 Mention may be made, for example, of the product Q2-8413 from the company Dow Corning

According to the invention, it is also possible to use silicones comprising a polysiloxane portion and a portion consisting of a non-silicone organic chain, one of the two portions constituting the main chain of the polymer the other being grafted onto said main chain. These polymers are for example described in patent applications EP-A-412 704, EP-A-412 707, EP-A-640 105 and WO 95/00578, EP-A-582 152 and WO 93/23009 and the US patents 4,693,935, US 4,728,571 and US 4,972,037 These polymers are preferably anionic or nonionic

Such polymers are, for example, the copolymers capable of being obtained by radical polymerization from the mixture of monomers consisting of a) 50 to 90% by weight of tert-butyl acrylate, b) 0 to 40% by weight of acrylic acid , c) 5 to 40% by weight of silicone macromer of formula

CH,: (C H) CH

with v being a number ranging from 5 to 700, the percentages by weight being calculated relative to the total weight of the monomers

Other examples of grafted silicone polymers are in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) onto which are grafted, via a thiopropylene-type connecting link, mixed polymer units of the poly (meth) acrylic acid type and of the poly type. alkyl (meth) acrylate and polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) onto which are grafted, via a thiopropylene-type connecting link, polymeric units of the isobutyl poly (meth) acrylate type P

According to the invention, all the silicones can also be used in the form of emulsions, nanoemulsions or micremulsions.

The particularly preferred polyorganosiloxanes in accordance with the invention are:

- non-volatile silicones chosen from the family of polyalkylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups such as oils having a viscosity of between 0.2 and 2.5 m ^z / s at 25 ° C such as oils from the DC200 series from DOW CORNING in particular that of viscosity 60,000 Cst, of the SILBIONE 70047 and 47 series and more particularly the oil 70,047 V 500,000 sold by the company RHONE POULENC, the polyalkylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups such as dimethiconol or polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as SILBIONE 70641 V 200 oil sold by the company RHONE POULENC;

- the organopolysiloxane resin sold under the name Dow Corning 593;

- polysiloxanes containing amino groups such as amodimethicones or thmethylsilylarnodimethicone;

According to the invention, the additional silicone (s) may represent from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight and more particularly from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the final composition.

The compositions of the invention also advantageously contain at least one surfactant which is generally present in an amount of between 0.1% and 60% by weight approximately, preferably between 3% and 40% and even more preferably between 5% and 30%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

This surfactant can be chosen from anionic, amphoteric, nonionic, cationic surfactants or mixtures thereof.

The surfactants which are suitable for carrying out the present invention are in particular the following: (i) Anionic surfactant (s): Their nature is not, in the context of the present invention, of a truly critical nature.

Thus, by way of example of anionic surfactants which can be used, alone or in mixtures, in the context of the present invention, mention may be made in particular (non-limiting list) of the salts (in particular alkali salts, in particular sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts or magnesium salts) of the following compounds: alkylsulphates, alkylethersulphates, alkylamidoethersulphates, alkylarylpolyethersulphates, monoglycerides sulphates; alkylsulfonates, alkylphosphates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates; alkylsuifosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates; alkylsulfosuccinamates; alkyl sulfoacetates; alkyl etherphosphates; acylsarcosinates; acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, the alkyl or acyl radical of all these different compounds preferably containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and the aryl radical preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group. Among the anionic surfactants which can still be used, mention may also be made of the salts of fatty acids such as the salts of oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic, stearic acids, coconut oil or hydrogenated coconut oil acids; acyl-lactylates whose acyl radical contains 8 to 20 carbon atoms. It is also possible to use weakly anionic surfactants, such as the alkyl D gaiactoside uronic acids and their salts as well as the polyoxyalkylenated (C ₆ -C ₂₄ ) alkyl ether acids, the (C ₆ -C ₂₄ ) aryl ether carboxylic acids. polyoxyalkylenated, (C ₆ -C ₂₄ ) alkyl amido ether polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, and mixtures thereof.

Among the anionic surfactants, it is preferred to use, according to the invention, the salts of alkyl sulfates and of alkyl ether sulfates and their mixtures.

(ii) Nonionic surfactant (s): The nonionic surfactants are also compounds well known per se (see in particular in this regard "Handbook of Surfactants" by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son editions ( Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178) and their nature is not, in the context of the present invention, of a critical nature. Thus, they can in particular be chosen from (non-limiting list) alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols or polyethoxyl, polypropoxy or polyglycerolated fatty acids, having a chain fatty having for example 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging from 2 to 30. Mention may also be made of copolymers ethylene and propylene oxide, condensates of ethylene and propylene oxide on fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular 1, 5 to 4; polyethoxylated fatty amines preferably having 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; esters of oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acids having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, alkylpolyglycosides, N-alkyl glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as alkyl oxides (CI Q - C-14) or N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides. It will be noted that the alkylpolyglycosides constitute nonionic surfactants which fall particularly well within the scope of the present invention.

(iii) Amphoteric surfactant (s): The amphoteric surfactants, the nature of which is not critical in the context of the present invention, can in particular be (non-limiting list) derivatives of secondary or tertiary amines aliphatics, in which the aliphatic radical is a straight or branched chain containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-soluble anionic group (for example carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate); Mention may also be made of (C ₈ -C ₂₀ ) alkyl betaines, sulfobetaines, (C ₈ -C ₂₀ ) alkyl amidoalkyl (CrC ₆ ) betaines or (C ₈ -C ₂₀ ) alkyl amidoalkyl (C | -C ₆₎ ) sulfobetaines.

Among the amine derivatives, mention may be made of the products sold under the name Miranol, as described in patents US-2,528,378 and US-2,781,354 and of structures: R ₂ -CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N (R ₃ ) (R ₄ ) (CH ₂ COO-) (1) in which: R ₂ denotes an alkyl radical derived from an acid R ₂ -COOH present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl radical, R ₃ denotes a beta-hydroxyethyl group and R ₄ denotes a carboxymethyl group; and R ₅ -CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N (B) (C) (2) in which: B represents -CH ₂ CH ₂ OX, C represents - (CH ₂ ) _Z -Y ', with z = 1 or 2, X' denotes the group -CH ₂ CH ₂ -COOH or a hydrogen atom Y denotes -COOH or the radical -CH ₂ - CHOH - S03H

R ₅ denotes an alkyl radical of an acid R ₉ -COOH present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl radical, in particular C ₇ , C ₉ , C ^ or C ₁₃ , a radical C ₁₇ alkyl and its iso form, an unsaturated C ₁₇ radical.

These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, Disodium Caprylamphodiacetate, Disodium Capryloamphodiacetate, Disodium Coco-amphodipropionate, Disodium Lauroamphodipropionate, Disodium Caprylamphopropionatepropionate amphodipropionic acid. By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold under the trade name MIRANOL C2M concentrated by the company RHONE POULENC.

(iv) Cationic surfactant (s): The cationic surfactants can be chosen from: A) the quaternary ammonium salts of the following general formula (IX):

in which X is an anion chosen from the group of halides (chloride, bromide or iodide) or alkyl (C ₂ -C ₆ ) sulphates more particularly methyl sulphate, phosphates, alkyl-or-alkylarylsulphonates, anions derived from organic acid such as acetate or lactate. , and i) the radicals R1 to R3, which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic radical, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl. The aliphatic radicals can comprise heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, halogens. The aliphatic radicals are, for example, chosen from alkyl, alkoxy, alkylamide, P

R4 denotes an alkyl radical, linear or branched, comprising from 16 to 30 carbon atoms.

Preferably the cationic surfactant is a salt (for example chloride) of behenyl trimethyl ammonium.

ii) the radicals R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic radical, linear or branched, containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl. The aliphatic radicals can comprise heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, halogens. The aliphatic radicals are, for example, chosen from alkyl, alkoxy, alkylamide and hydroxyalkyl radicals, comprising approximately from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

R3 and R4, identical or different, denote an alkyl radical, linear or branched, comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, said radical comprising at least one ester or amide function. R3 and R4 are especially chosen from (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ ) alkyl amido (C ₂ -C ₆ ) alkyl, (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ ) alkyl acetate radicals;

Preferably the cationic surfactant is a salt (for example chloride) of stearamidopropyl dimethyl (myristylacetate) ammonium.

B) - the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazolinium, such as for example that of formula (X) below:

in which R ₅ represents an alkenyl or alkyl radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R ₆ represents a hydrogen atom, a C _r C ₄ alkyl radical or an alkenyl or alkyl radical having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ₇ represents a C _r C ₄ alkyl radical, R _s represents a hydrogen atom, a C _r C ₄ alkyl radical, X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl-or-alkylarylsulfonates. Preferably, R ₅ and R ₆ denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl radicals comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R ₇ denotes methyl, R _s denotes hydrogen. Such a product is for example Quatemium-27 (CTFA 1997) or Quaternium-83 (CTFA 1997) sold under the names "REWOQUAT" W 75, W90, W75PG, W75HPG by the company WITCO,

C) - the quaternary diammonium salts of formula (XI)

in which R ₉ denotes an aliphatic radical containing approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, R ₁₀ , R 2, R ₁₂ , R ₁₃ and R ₁₄ , which are identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methylsulfates. Such quaternary diammonium salts include in particular propane diammonium dichloride.

D) - quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function of formula (XII) below:

in which

- R-I5 is chosen from C-i-Cβ alkyl radicals and C- | -C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl radicals;

- R-I5 is chosen from:

O

II

- the radical R ^ C-

- linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon radicals R20, - the hydrogen atom,

- R- _| 8 is chosen from: O

II

- the radical R ^ C—

- linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C22-C5 hydrocarbon radicals R22,

- the hydrogen atom, - R-17, R- _j g and R21, identical or different, are chosen from C7-C21 hydrocarbon radicals, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated;

- n, p and r, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6;

- y is an integer from 1 to 10;

- x and z, identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10; - X "is a simple or complex, organic or inorganic anion;

provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R- _] g denotes R20 and that when z is 0 then R-jg denotes R22-

More particularly, the ammonium salts of formula (XII) are used in which:

- R-I5 denotes a methyl or ethyl radical,

- x and y are equal to 1;

- z is 0 or 1;

- n, p and r are equal to 2; - R- _] 5 is chosen from:

O

II

- the radical Rr ir y-C-

- methyl, ethyl or C-14-C22 hydrocarbon radicals

- the hydrogen atom;

- Ri 7, R- _j g and R21, identical or different, are chosen from C7-C21 hydrocarbon radicals, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated;

- R ^ 8 is chosen from:

O

II

- the radical R ^ C-

- the hydrogen atom;

Such compounds are for example marketed under the names DEHYQUART by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM by the company CECA, REWOQUAT WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO. Among the quaternary ammonium salts, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride is preferred, or alternatively stearamidopropyldimethyl chloride (myristyl acetate) ammonium sold under the name "CERAPHYL 70" by the company VAN DYK, the Quaternιum-27 or the Quatemιum-83 sold by the company WITCO

In the compositions in accordance with the invention, mixtures of surfactants and in particular mixtures of anionic surfactants and mixtures of anionic surfactants and amphoteric or nonionic surfactants are preferably used. A particularly preferred mixture is a mixture consisting of at least one anionic surfactant and at least one amphoteric surfactant

Preferably, an anionic surfactant chosen from sodium (C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ ) alkyl sulfates, tπethanolamine or ammonium, sodium (C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ ) alkyl ethersulfates, tπethanolamine or ammonium oxyethylenesulfates are used. with 2.2 moles of ethylene oxide, sodium cocoyl isethionate and alphaolefin (C ₁₄ -C ₁₆ ) sodium sulfonate and their mixture with

- either an amphoteric surfactant such as the amine derivatives denominated disodiumcocoamphodipropionate or sodiumcocoamphopropionate sold in particular by the company RHONE POULENC under the trade name "MIRANOL C2M CONC" in aqueous solution at 38% of active material or under the name MIRANOL C32,

- or an amphoteric surfactant of the zwittenonic type such as alkyl betam in particular cocobetaine sold under the name "DEHYTON AB 30" in aqueous solution at 32% of MA by the company HENKEL

The composition of the invention may also contain at least one additive chosen from thickeners, anti-dandruff or anti-seborrheic agents, perfumes, hydroxy acids, electrolytes, thickeners, fatty acid esters, preservatives, sun filters silicones or not, vitamins, provitamins, anionic or nonionic polymers, proteins, protein hydrolysates, 18-methyl eicosanoic acid, hydroxy acids, panthenol, vegetable, animal, mineral or synthetic oils, fluorinated or perfluorinated oils, natural or synthetic waxes, ceramide-type compounds, fatty amines fatty acids and their derivatives, fatty alcohols and their derivatives as well as mixtures of these various compounds and any other additive conventionally used in the cosmetic field which does not affect the properties of the compositions according to the invention

These additives are present in the composition according to the invention in proportions which can range from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The precise amount of each additive is easily determined by a person skilled in the art depending on its nature and his function

The compositions according to the invention can be more particularly used for washing or treating keratin materials such as hair, skin, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails, lips, scalp and more particularly hair

In particular, the compositions according to the invention are detergent compositions such as shampoos, shower gels and bubble baths. In this embodiment of the invention, the compositions comprise a washing base, generally aqueous

The surfactant (s) forming the washing base can be chosen either, alone or as a mixture, from anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants as defined above

The quantity and quality of the washing base are sufficient to give the final composition a satisfactory foaming and / or detergent power.

Thus, according to the invention, the washing base can represent from 4% to 50% by weight, preferably from 6% to 35% by weight, and even more preferably from 8% to 25% by weight, of the total weight of the final composition

The subject of the invention is also a process for treating keratin materials such as the skin or the hair, characterized in that it consists in applying to the keratin materials a cosmetic composition as defined above, then in optionally rinsing with the water Thus, this method according to the invention allows the hairstyle to be maintained, the treatment, the care or the washing or the make-up removal of the skin, the hair or any other keratin material.

The compositions of the invention may also be in the form of conditioner to rinse off or not, of compositions for perm, straightening, coloring or discoloration, or also in the form of compositions to rinse, to be applied before or after coloring, discoloration, perm or straightening or between the two stages of a perm or straightening. When the composition is in the form of a conditioner optionally to be rinsed off, it advantageously contains a cationic surfactant, its concentration generally between 0.1 and 10% by weight and preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions of the invention may also be in the form of washing compositions for the skin, and in particular in the form of solutions or gels for the bath or shower or of make-up removing products.

The compositions according to the invention can also be in the form of aqueous or hydroalcoholic lotions for the care of the skin and / or the hair.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be in the form of gel, milk, cream, emulsion, thickened lotion or foam and can be used for the skin, nails, eyelashes, lips and more particularly hair.

The compositions can be packaged in various forms, in particular in vaporizers, pump-dispenser bottles or in aerosol containers in order to ensure application of the composition in vaporized form or in the form of foam. Such forms of packaging are indicated, for example, when it is desired to obtain a spray, a lacquer or a foam for the treatment of hair.

In everything which follows or what precedes, the percentages expressed are by weight.

The invention will now be more fully illustrated with the aid of the following examples which should not be considered as limiting it to the embodiments described. In the examples; MA stands for active ingredient.

In the examples, the trade names have the following definitions:

EXAMPLE 1

Two shampoo compositions were produced, one in accordance with the invention (composition A) and the other comparative (composition B):

Shampooing is carried out by applying approximately 12 g of composition A to hair previously wet. The shampoo is lathered and then rinsed thoroughly with water. The procedure is the same as above with the comparative composition B.

A panel of experts assessed the properties of wet hair. Comparative tests have shown that the composition according to the invention brings more lightness to wet hair than composition B.

In addition, with the composition according to the invention, on wet hair the roots are more detached.

EXAMPLE 2

The shampoo of the following composition was prepared

After washing the hair with the composition, the hair is rinsed with water. Wet hair is easily disentangled, the hair is light and the roots are peeled off. CLAIMS

1 - Cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one pearlescent and / or opacifying agent and at least one quaternary polyammonium silicone consisting of repeating units of the following general formula

-τt- 2mA ^" (D

in which

R1, R2, R3, R4, identical or different, represent a C1-C4 alkyl radical, preferably methyl

- X and X, identical or different, represent a divergent organic group which is linked to the adjacent silicon atom by a carbon-silicon bond and to a nitrogen atom, and which comprises at least 4 carbon atoms and a group hydroxyl, X or X 'not containing a hererocycle,

- Y represents a divergent organic group comprising at least two carbon atoms,

A "denotes an organic or mineral anion, n is a number between 5 and 200, m is greater than or equal to 1 and preferably between 1 and 10

2- Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that X and X 'identical or different, denote a C ₄ -C ₁₂ hydrocarbon radical optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen

3- Composition according to Claim 2, characterized in that X and X ', which are identical or different, denote a linear or branched butylene radical, linear or branched hexylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH (OH) CH ₂ -, - CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ 0 CH ₂ CH (OH) CH ₂ -,

-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ 0 CH ₂ CH (CH ₂ 0H) -, -CH ₂ CH (OH) CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ - OH I ι I

- (CH ₂ ) ₂ - CH -CH ₂ - - (CH ₂ ) ₂ - CH -CH ₂ OH

OH I ι I

- (CH ₂ ) ₃ - CH -CH ₂ - - (CH ₂ ) ₃ - CH -CH ₂ OH

4- Composition according to Claim 3, characterized in that X and X, identical or different, are chosen from:

-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ O CH ₂ CH (OH) CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (OH) CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -.

5- Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that Y is a C ₂ -C ₁₂ hydrocarbon radical optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen.

6- Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that Y denotes an ethylene radical, linear or branched propylene, linear or branched butylene, linear or branched hexylene or -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH (OH ) CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ OCH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ N (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₂ -.

7- Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that Y is chosen from the radicals -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH ₂ - - (CH ₂ ) ₆ - and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ -.

8- Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that A ~ denotes a bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, methosulfate, sulfate, phosphate anion.

9- Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said quaternary polyammonium silicone is present at a concentration of between 0.05% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0, 1% and 5% by weight.

10- Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pearlescent and / or opacifying agent is chosen from: i) polyol esters having at least two carbon atoms and long chain fatty acids in C10-C30; ii) long chain fatty acid alkanolamides; iii) esters of long chain monoalcohols and long chain fatty acids; iv) ethers of long chain fatty alcohols; v) long chain esters of long chain alkanolamides; vi) mono-chain fatty alcohols having at least 20 carbon atoms; vii) long chain amine oxides; viii) N, N-dihydrocarbyl (C10-C30) amido benzoic acids and their salts; x) alcohols having from 27 to 48 carbon atoms and comprising one or two ether and / or thioether or sulfoxide groups; and x) titanium oxides and micas;

11- Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the opacifying and / or pearlescent agent is chosen from ethylene glycol mono or distearate, distearyl ether, behenic alcohol and 1 ( hexadecyloxy) 2-octadecanol.

12- Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 1 1, characterized in that the opacifying and / or pearlescent agent represents from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the final composition.

13- Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises a cationic polymer.

14- Composition according to claim 13, characterized in that the cationic polymers are chosen from those which contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups which can either be part of the main polymer chain or be worn by a lateral substituent directly connected to it.

15- Composition according to any one of claims 13 or 14, characterized in that the said cationic polymer is chosen from:

in which:

R3, identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical;

A, identical or different, represent an alkyl group, linear or branched, from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; R4, R5, RQ, identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical;

R-1 and R2, identical or different, represent hydrogen or an alkyl group having

1 to 6 carbon atoms;

X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.

(2) Derivatives of cellulose ethers containing quaternary ammonium groups,

(3) Cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, (4) Cationic polysaccharides,

(5) polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals with straight or branched chains, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the products of oxidation and / or quaternization of these polymers,

(6) water-soluble poiyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these poiyaminoamides can be crosslinked by an epihalohydriπe, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohyd ne, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-halide of alkyl or also with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound reactive with respect to a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide, an epilhalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mole per amine group of the polymaoamide; these poiyaminoamides can be alkylated or if they contain one or more tertiary, quaternized amino functions.

(7) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation by bifunctional agents,

(8) polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms,

(9) cyclopolymers of alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium

(10) the quaternary diammonium polymer containing recurring units corresponding to the formula:

formula (VI) in which

R13, R14, R15 and R16, identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or else R13, R14, R15 and R16, together or separately, constitute with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached heterocycles optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen or else R13, R14, R15 and R16 represent a linear or branched C1 -C6 alkyl radical substituted by a nitnl group, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-0-R17-D or -CO- NH-R17-D where R17 is alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group,

X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid,

A1, R13 and R15 can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring, in addition if A1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 can also denote a group (CH2) n -CO-D-OC- (CH2) n- in which D denotes a) a glycol residue of formula -OZO-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas

- (CH2-CH2-0) x-CH2-CH2- - [CH2-CH (CH3) -O] y-CH2-CH (CH3) - where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a degree defined and unique polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization, b) a residue of bis-secondary diamine such as a piperazine derivative, c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or else the bivalent radical

-CH2-CH2-S-S-CH2-CH2-; d) a ureylene group of formula: -NH-CO-NH-; Preferably, X is an anion.

(11) the quaternary polyammonium polymers consisting of units of formula (VIII):

^R 18 R ₂₀

- N + - (CH ₂ ) _r - NH-CO- (CH ₂ ) -CO- NH- (CH ₂ ) _s - N + -A - X- II

R ₁₉ (VIII) _χ _ R ₂₁

formula in which:

R18, R19, R20 and R21, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl or -CH2CH2 (OCH2CH2) pOH radical, where p is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, provided that

R18, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom, r and s, identical or different, are whole numbers between 1 and 6, q is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 34 ,

X denotes a halogen atom, A denotes a radical of a dihalide or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-0-

CH2-CH2-.

(12) Quaternary polymers of vinyipyrrolidone and vinylimidazole,

(13) Polyamines referenced under the name of "POLYETHYLENEGLYCOL (15) TALLOW POLYAMINE" in the CTFA dictionary.

(14) Crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl (C- _| -C4) trialkyl (C- _| _C4) ammonium salts, (15) polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, polyamine and epichlorohydrin condensates, quaternary polyuretylenes and chitin derivatives.

16- Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the said cationic polymer is chosen from quaternary cellulose ether derivatives, cationic cyclopolymers, cationic polysaccharides, quaternary polymers of vinyipyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole and their mixtures.

17- Composition according to claim 16, characterized in that said cyclopolymer is chosen from homopolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide.

18- Composition according to Claim 16, characterized in that the said quaternary cellulose ether derivatives are chosen from hydroxyethylcelluloses which have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.

19- Composition according to claim 16, characterized in that said cationic polysaccharides are chosen from guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt.

20- Composition according to any one of claims 13 to 19, characterized in that the cationic polymer is present at a concentration of between 0.001% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.01 % and 10% by weight.

21- Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 20, characterized in that it further comprises at least one silicone.

22- Composition according to claim 21, characterized in that the silicones are non-volatile polyorganosiloxanes chosen from polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, gums and silicone resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified by organofunctional groups and their mixtures. 23- Composition according to claim 22, characterized in that:

(a) the polyalkylsiloxanes are chosen from:

- polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups; - polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups;

- polyalkyl (C _r C ₂ o) siloxanes;

(b) the polyalkylarylsiloxanes are chosen from:

- Polydimethylmethylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyldiphenyl siloxanes with viscosity between 1.10 ^"5 and 5.10 ^{" 2} m ² / s at 25 ° C; (c) the silicone gums are chosen from polydiorganosiloxanes having number average molecular weights of between 200,000 and 1,000,000 used alone or as a mixture in a solvent;

(d) the resins are chosen from resins consisting of units: R ₃ Si 0 _1/2 , R ₂ Si 0 _2/2 , R Si 0 _3/2 , Si 0 _4/2 in which R represents a hydrocarbon group having from 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group;

(e) the organo-modified silicones are chosen from silicones comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon radical.

24- Composition according to any one of claims 21 to 23, characterized in that the silicones are chosen from polyalkylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups, polyalkylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, mixtures of two PDMSs consisting of a gum and oil of different viscosities, mixtures of organosiloxanes and cyclic silicones, organopolysiloxane resins.

25- Composition according to any one of claims 21 to 24, characterized in that said silicone is present at a concentration of between 0.001% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.01% and 10% by weight.

26- Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises at least one surfactant chosen from anionic, nonionic, amphoteric, cationic surfactants and their mixtures. PT

27- Composition according to claim 26, characterized in that the surfactant (s) are present at a concentration of between 0.1% and 60% by weight, preferably between 3% and 40% by weight, and even more preferably between 5% and 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

28- Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 27, characterized in that the composition contains at least one additive chosen from thickeners, dandruff or anti-seborrheic agents, perfumes, pearlescent agents, hydroxy acids, electrolytes , thickeners, fatty acid esters, preservatives, silicone or non-silicone sunscreens, vitamins, provitamins, anionic or nonionic polymers, proteins, protein hydrolysates, 18-methyl eicosanoic acid, hydroxy acids, panthenol, vegetable, animal, mineral or synthetic oils, fluorinated or perfluorinated oils, natural or synthetic waxes, ceramide-type compounds, fatty amines, fatty acids and their derivatives, fatty alcohols and their derivatives as well as mixtures of these different compounds.

29- Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of shampoo, conditioner, composition for perming, straightening, coloring or bleaching of hair, rinse-off composition to be applied between the two stages of a perm or straightening, body wash composition.

30- Use of a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims for washing or caring for keratin materials.

31- A method of treating keratin materials, such as the hair, characterized in that it consists in applying to said materials a cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 29, then in optionally rinsing with water.