EP1116484A2 - Treatment of a cosmetic with NIR-rays and its use - Google Patents

Abstract

Treatment of a cosmetic is by near infrared (NIR) irradiation before, during or after application of the cosmetic.

Description

The present invention relates to a method for treatment a cosmetic product before, during or after application by irradiation with NIR radiation, as well as the use of the so cosmetic product obtained for the treatment of the skin, hair or the nails. The cosmetic according to the invention is preferred Means for strengthening, structural improvement and shaping of the Hair used.

Another object of the invention is a cosmetic Medium obtainable by NIR radiation.

Process for changing the properties of cosmetics during application by exposure to heat, UV radiation or reactive chemicals are common in the prior art described.

U.S. 3,820,550 describes the curing of N-substituted acrylamides, especially of diacetone acrylamides on the hair Heat, redox catalysts or autoxidation.

U.S. 3,472,604 describes the treatment of hair when coloring with water-soluble polymerizable vinyl monomers, the Monomer is polymerized using an oxidizing agent.

U.S. 3,634,022 and U.S. 3,676,550 describe one method for the application of perms, besides usual methods additionally olefinically unsaturated monomers or peroxide initiators be used.

U.S. 4,278,659 describes hair treatment compositions containing an acid, glyceraldehyde, resorcinol and an oligomer Pre-condensate thereof, which are applied with heat.

In U.S. 5,362,486 is the polymerization of urethane acrylate Oligomers described on the hair, being used as polymerization reagents Benzoyl peroxide and others are used.

U.S. 4,682,612 describes a process for making artificial Nails hardened by UVA radiation (320 to 400 nm) become.

All of these methods have in common that they use methods work that is unfavorable for contact with the human body are because they cause skin irritation and health Can cause damage. Another disadvantage is some of the methods mentioned in that the curing of the used polymers or prepolymers with regard to their timing and their duration is not precisely controllable. Furthermore, it is a disadvantage of treatment with UV light and heat radiation that it does not pass through the hair, and therefore not penetrating and time-optimized treatment of the on the hair present cosmetic product is possible.

The targeted influencing of cosmetic preparations through exposure of NIR radiation for their manufacture or use so far unknown. In particular, the use of cosmetic Formulations together with NIR radiation so that when applied Polymers are created or cross-linked or their properties of polymers are not known.

The present invention was therefore based on the object To provide methods for the treatment of cosmetic formulations, that enables improved hair and skin care and that does not have the disadvantages mentioned above.

Surprisingly, it has now been found that it succeeds with help near infra red (NIR) radiation practically anything for polymerization, Hardening or crosslinking suitable system effectively make, so also those systems that generally only with With the help of UV radiation or long-wave infrared radiation be hardened. This is all the more surprising because of the below mentioned monomers, prepolymers and polymers UV radiation and absorb long-wave infrared radiation much more strongly than NIR radiation.

The particular advantage of the invention over activation or polymerization of cosmetic products by heat, UV radiation, Treatment with radical formers, acids and bases consists in the simplified handling and in the significant reduced irritation of the affected parts of the body. Across from IR radiation has the advantage that NIR radiation is lower than IR radiation penetrates the cosmetic product and therefore does not only appears superficial. This is particularly advantageous if the cosmetic product only after application or penetration activated in the substrate (e.g. skin or hair), hardened or to be polymerized. In contrast to IR radiation NIR radiation also passes through the hair significantly weaker absorption, so that NIR radiation just for voluminous hairstyles is suitable.

A first object of the invention is a method for Treatment of a cosmetic product, characterized in that that the cosmetic agent before, during or after application is treated with near infrared red radiation (NIR radiation).

Another object of the invention is a cosmetic Medium, obtainable by exposure to NIR radiation as well the use of the skin treatment agent thus obtained, hair or nails.

The cosmetic products are in particular: Agent with film-forming, permeation-inhibiting, setting or shaping effect, the effect of which by NIR radiation with an emission maximum in the range of wavelengths 600 nm up to 1500 nm, in particular 750 to 1100 nm during or after the application is activated, strengthened or accelerated.

• ungesättigte Verbindungen (insbesondere ethylenisch ungesättigte Verbindungen),
• Epoxide
• Siliciumverbindungen mit wenigstens einer Si-O-Bindung und gegebenenfalls wenigstens einer Si-C-Bindung
• Aromaten, die wenigstens eine C-O-Bindung unter Beteiligung eines Ringatoms aufweisen, beispielsweise Phenolabkömmlinge
• Formaldehyd und Verbindungen die Formaldehyd abspalten können
• Urotropin, Melamin, Harnstoff sowie Derivate oder strukturelle Abkömmlinge davon
• Stoffe, die unter geeigneten Bedingungen in Radikale zerfallen
• Ferner kann das kosmetische Mittel Isocyanate, Alkohole, Amine und ihre Derivate, Carbonsäuren und ihre Derivate, Lactame und Lactone, Carbodiimide enthalten.

The cosmetic agent is characterized in that at least one polymer is formed under the action of NIR radiation, the polymer being linear, branched or crosslinked; statistical and alternating copolymers as well as graft and block copolymers are also possible. The polymer is formed from any chemical compounds contained in the cosmetic composition, with organic and organosilicon compounds being preferred. Compounds which are capable of the chemical reaction with polymerization, polyaddition, polycondensation or crosslinking or which react in combination of these reaction types are particularly preferred. The reaction can also take place with chemical modification of the treated structure (hair, nails, keratinous material, skin). In particular, the cosmetic agent contains compounds from the following classes:

• unsaturated compounds (especially ethylenically unsaturated compounds),
• Epoxies
• Silicon compounds with at least one Si-O bond and optionally at least one Si-C bond
• Aromatics which have at least one CO bond with the participation of a ring atom, for example phenol derivatives
• Formaldehyde and compounds that can release formaldehyde
• Urotropin, melamine, urea and derivatives or structural derivatives thereof
• Substances that break down into radicals under suitable conditions
• Furthermore, the cosmetic agent can contain isocyanates, alcohols, amines and their derivatives, carboxylic acids and their derivatives, lactams and lactones, carbodiimides.

All compounds from the classes mentioned can be of low molecular weight or have a high molecular character. Decisive is their ability by chemical reaction alone Substances of higher molecular weight or higher mechanical Strength or lower permeability (for water or Oxygen) or by chemical reaction with the treated structure a corresponding change in properties effect the treated structure. Polymers that crosslink under suitable conditions are also considered Part of the cosmetic formulations suitable.

The cosmetic agent used according to the invention is preferably used to treat skin, hair and nails, the treatment being of hair with a setting or fixing effect is preferred.

Particularly suitable radiation sources for NIR radiation emit predominantly, but at least more than usual Infrared emitter, in the wavelength range of 600 nm up to 1500 nm. NIR emitters can, for example, halogen lamps, Semiconductor lasers, light emitting diodes, mercury vapor lamps or Be sodium vapor lamps. Become commercially available NIR emitters for example from the companies IndustrieServis (Bruckmühl) and Ushio (Tokyo) offered.

According to the invention are in particular methods in which NIR radiation together with a formulation in hair cosmetics for Is used, preferably with preparations such as hair setting formulations, Perming preparations, hair treatments, hair lotions, Hair rinses, hair emulsions, tip fluids, leveling agents for perms, hot oil treatment preparations, conditioners, setting lotions, Shampoos, hair dyes, treatment agents of dandruff and hair loss as well as in hair restorer. The The method is preferably used for setting the hair. Both the use in typical hair setting formulations is according to the invention as well as the combination with other methods and Means for shaping hair, especially with perms.

Furthermore, the method according to the invention is applicable to the nails, especially in connection with the use of nail polishes.

The method according to the invention can also be used for cosmetic and dermatological agents are used for the skin. In particular, skin preparations are used here permeation-inhibiting effect (permeation of water) and Wound care preparations.

In addition, the inventive method for cosmetic Used to cleanse the skin. Such cosmetic Cleaning agents are selected from bar soaps, such as toilet soaps, Core soaps, transparent soaps, luxury soaps, deodorant soaps, Cream soaps, baby soaps, skin protection soaps, abrasive soaps and Syndets, liquid soaps such as pasty soaps, soft soaps and Washing pastes, and liquid washing, showering and bathing preparations, such as washing lotions, shower baths and gels, foam baths, oil baths and scrub preparations.

The method can also be used for cosmetic care products and to protect the skin, in nail care products and in preparations for decorative cosmetics.

Another application of the method is the use of Skin care products, intimate care products, foot care products, light stabilizers, Repellents, shaving products, hair removal products, Anti-acne agents, make-up, mascara, lipsticks, eye shadows, Eye pencils, eyeliners, blushes, powders and eyebrow pencils.

The skin care products are in particular W / O or O / W skin creams, Day and night creams, eye creams, face creams, anti-wrinkle creams, Moisturizing creams, bleaching creams, vitamin creams, Skin lotions, care lotions and moisturizing lotions.

It is also suitable for nose strips for pore cleaning, Anti-acne agents, repellents, shaving agents, hair removal agents, Intimate hygiene products, foot care products as well in baby care. The method is also suitable for Application of auxiliaries in pharmacy and galenics, preferred for the use of coating agents and binders for solid dosage forms.

Depending on the field of application, the agents according to the invention in a form suitable for skin care, e.g. as a cream, Foam, gel, gel spray, stick, powder, mousse, milk or lotion be applied.

The method is preferred in cosmetic compositions containing the following classes of monomers, prepolymers and polymers used:

Ethylenically unsaturated monomers with a free one Radically initiated reaction can be polymerized prefers. The term ethylenically unsaturated means that the monomers have at least one polymerizable carbon-carbon Have double bond that is mono-, di-, tri-, or tetrasubstituted can be.

X ausgewählt ist aus der Gruppe der Reste -OH, -OM, -OR⁸, NH2, -NHR⁸, N(R⁸)₂ ;

M ist ein Kation ausgewählt aus der Gruppe bestehend aus: Na⁺, K⁺, Mg⁺⁺, Ca⁺⁺, Zn⁺⁺, NH⁴⁺, Alkylammonium, Dialkylammonium, Trialkylammonium und Tetraalkylammonium;

die Reste R⁸ können identisch oder verschieden ausgewählt werden aus der Gruppe bestehend aus -H, C₁-C₄₀ linear- oder verzweigtkettige Alkylreste, N,N-Dimethylaminoethyl, 2-Hydroxyethyl, 2-Methoxyethyl, 2-Ethoxyethyl, Hydroxypropyl, Methoxypropyl oder Ethoxypropyl.

The preferred ethylenically unsaturated monomers can be described by the following general formula: XC (O) CR ⁷ = CHR ⁶ in which

X is selected from the group consisting of -OH, -OM, -OR ⁸ , NH2, -NHR ⁸ , N (R ⁸ ) ₂ ;

M is a cation selected from the group consisting of: Na ⁺ , K ⁺ , Mg ⁺⁺ , Ca ⁺⁺ , Zn ⁺⁺ , NH ⁴⁺ , alkylammonium, dialkylammonium, trialkylammonium and tetraalkylammonium;

the radicals R ⁸ can be selected identically or differently from the group consisting of -H, C ₁ -C ₄₀ linear or branched-chain alkyl radicals, N, N-dimethylaminoethyl, 2-hydroxyethyl, 2-methoxyethyl, 2-ethoxyethyl, hydroxypropyl, methoxypropyl or ethoxypropyl.

R ⁷ and R ⁶ are independently selected from the group consisting of: -H, C ₁ -C ₈ linear or branched chain alkyl chains, methoxy, ethoxy, 2-hydroxyethoxy, 2-methoxyethoxy and 2-ethoxyethyl.

Representative but not limiting examples of suitable ones Monomers are, for example, acrylic acid and its salts, esters and amides. The salts can be of any non-toxic Metal, ammonium or substituted ammonium counterions derived his.

The esters can be derived from C ₁ -C ₄₀ linear, C ₃ -C ₄₀ branched chain, or C ₃ -C ₄₀ carbocyclic alcohols, from polyfunctional alcohols with 2 to about 8 hydroxyl groups such as ethylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, and 1,2, 6-hexanetriol, from amino alcohols or from alcohol ethers such as methoxyethanol and ethoxyethanol or polyethylene glycols.

mit R⁹

= H, Alkyl mit 1 bis 8 C-Atomen,

R¹⁰

= H, Methyl,

R¹¹

= Alkylen mit 1 bis 24 C-Atomen, optional substituiert durch Alkyl,

R¹², R¹³

= C₁-C₄₀ Alkylrest,

Z

= Stickstoff für x = 1 oder Sauerstoff für x = 0

Also suitable are N, N-dialkylaminoalkyl acrylates and methacrylates and N-dialkylaminoalkyl acrylates and methacrylamides of the general formula (II)

with R ⁹

= H, alkyl with 1 to 8 carbon atoms,

R ¹⁰

= H, methyl,

R ¹¹

= Alkylene with 1 to 24 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by alkyl,

R ¹² , R ¹³

= C ₁ -C ₄₀ alkyl radical,

Z.

= Nitrogen for x = 1 or oxygen for x = 0

The amides can be unsubstituted, N-alkyl or N-alkylamino monosubstituted, or N, N-dialkyl-substituted or N, N-dialkylamino, where the alkyl or alkylamino groups of C ₁ -C ₄₀ linear, C ₃ -C ₄₀ branched, or C ₃ -C ₄₀ carbocyclic units are derived. In addition, the alkylamino groups can be quaternized.

Preferred monomers of the formula II are N, N-dimethylaminomethyl (meth) acrylate, N, N-diethylaminomethyl (meth) acrylate, N, N-dimethylaminoethyl (meth) acrylate, N, N-diethylaminoethyl (meth) acrylate.

Another monomer that can be used is diacetone acrylamide (CAS number 2873-97-4).

Monomers which can also be used are substituted acrylic acids and salts, esters and amides thereof, where the substituents on the carbon atoms are in the two or three position of acrylic acid and are selected independently of one another from the group consisting of C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl, -CN, COOH particularly preferably methacrylic acid, ethacrylic acid and 3-cyanoacrylic acid. These salts, esters and amides of these substituted acrylic acids can be selected as described above for the salts, esters and amides of acrylic acid.

Other suitable monomers are vinyl and allyl esters of C ₁ -C ₄₀ linear, C ₃ -C ₄₀ branched-chain or C ₃ -C ₄₀ carbocyclic carboxylic acids (for example: vinyl acetate, vinyl propionate, vinyl neononanoate, vinyl neoundecanoic acid or t-butyl benzoic acid vinyl ester); Vinyl or allyl halides, preferably vinyl chloride and allyl chloride, vinyl ethers, preferably methyl, ethyl, butyl or dodecyl vinyl ether, vinylformamide, vinylmethylacetamide, vinylamine; Vinyl lactams, preferably vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl caprolactam, vinyl or allyl-substituted heterocyclic compounds, preferably vinyl pyridine, vinyl oxazoline and allyl pyridine.

Also suitable are N-vinylimidazoles of the general formula III, in which R ¹⁴ to R ¹⁶ independently of one another are hydrogen, C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl or phenyl:

mit R¹⁷ = C₁-C₂₄ AlkylOther suitable monomers are diallylamines of the general formula (IV)

with R ¹⁷ = C ₁ -C ₂₄ alkyl

Other suitable monomers are vinylidene chloride; and hydrocarbons with at least one carbon-carbon double bond, preferably styrene, alpha-methylstyrene, tert-butylstyrene, Butadiene, isoprene, cyclohexadiene, ethylene, propylene, 1-butene, 2-butene, isobutylene, vinyl toluene and mixtures of these monomers.

Particularly suitable monomers are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, Ethyl acrylic acid, methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, propyl acrylate, n-butyl acrylate, iso-butyl acrylate, t-butyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, Decyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, Propyl methacrylate, n-butyl methacrylate, iso-butyl methacrylate, t-butyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, Methylethacrylate, ethylethacrylate, n-butylethacrylate, iso-butylethacrylate, t-butylethacrylate, 2-ethylhexylethacrylate, decylethacrylate, 2,3-dihydroxypropyl acrylate, 2,3-dihydroxypropyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, hydroxypropyl acrylates, 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxyethyl ethacrylate, 2-methoxyethyl acrylate, 2-methoxyethyl methacrylate, 2-methoxyethyl ethacrylate, 2-ethoxyethyl methacrylate, 2-ethoxyethyl ethacrylate, hydroxypropyl methacrylate, Glyceryl monoacrylate, glyceryl monomethacrylate, polyalkylene glycol (meth) acrylates, unsaturated sulfonic acids such as for example acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid;

Acrylamide, methacrylamide, ethacrylamide, N-methylacrylamide, N, N-dimethylacrylamide, N-ethyl acrylamide, N-isopropylacrylamide, N-butylacrylamide, N-t-butylacrylamide, N-octylacrylamide, N-t-octylacrylamide, N-octadecylacrylamide, N-phenylacrylamide, N-methyl methacrylamide, N-ethyl methacrylamide, N-dodecyl methacrylamide, 1-vinylimidazole, 1-vinyl-2-methylimidazole, N, N-dimethylaminomethyl (meth) acrylate, N, N-diethylaminomethyl (meth) acrylate, N, N-dimethylaminoethyl (meth) acrylate, N, N-diethylaminoethyl (meth) acrylate, N, N-dimethylaminobutyl (meth) acrylate, N, N-diethylaminobutyl (meth) acrylate, N, N-dimethylaminohexyl (meth) acrylate, N, N-dimethylaminooctyl (meth) acrylate, N, N-dimethylaminododecyl (meth) acrylate, N- [3- (dimethylamino) propyl] methacrylamide, N- [3- (dimethylamino) propyl] acrylamide, N- [3- (dimethylamino) butyl] methacrylamide, N- [8- (dimethylamino) octyl] methacrylamide, N- [12- (dimethylamino) dodecyl] methacrylamide, N- [3- (diethylamino) propyl] methacrylamide, N- [3- (diethylamino) propyl] acrylamide;

Maleic acid, fumaric acid, maleic anhydride and its half esters, Crotonic acid, itaconic acid, diallyldimethylammonium chloride, vinyl ether (for example: methyl, ethyl, butyl or dodecyl vinyl ether), Vinyl formamide, vinyl methylacetamide, vinyl amine; Methyl vinyl ketone, Maleimide, vinylpyridine, vinylimidazole, vinylfuran, Styrene, styrene sulfonate, allyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

Of these, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, Maleic acid, fumaric acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride as well its half ester, methyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate, ethyl acrylate, Ethyl methacrylate, n-butyl acrylate, n-butyl methacrylate, t-butyl acrylate, t-butyl methacrylate, isobutyl acrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, N-t-butylacrylamide, N-octylacrylamide, 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, hydroxypropyl acrylate, 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate, Hydroxypropyl methacrylate, alkylene glycol (meth) acrylates, unsaturated sulfonic acids such as acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, Vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl caprolactam, vinyl ether (e.g. methyl, ethyl, butyl, or dodecyl vinyl ether), vinyl formamide, Vinyl methylacetamide, vinyl amine, 1-vinyl imidazole, 1-vinyl-2-methylimidazole, N, N-dimethylaminomethyl methacrylate and N- [3- (dimethylamino) propyl] methacrylamide; 3-methyl-1-vinylimidazolium chloride, 3-methyl-1-vinylimidazolium methyl sulfate, N, N-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- [3- (dimethylamino) propyl] methacrylamide quaternized with methyl chloride, methyl sulfate or Diethyl sulfate.

Monomers with a basic nitrogen atom can be quartered in the following ways:

For the quaternization of the amines, for example, alkyl halides are suitable with 1 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, e.g. Methyl chloride, methyl bromide, methyl iodide, ethyl chloride, ethyl bromide, Propyl chloride, hexyl chloride, dodecyl chloride, lauryl chloride and benzyl halides, especially benzyl chloride and Benzyl bromide. Other suitable quaternizing agents are Dialkyl sulfates, especially dimethyl sulfate or diethyl sulfate. The quaternization of the basic amines can also be carried out with alkylene oxides such as ethylene oxide or propylene oxide in the presence of acids be performed. Preferred quaternizing agents are: Methyl chloride, dimethyl sulfate or diethyl sulfate.

The quaternization can take place before the polymerization or after the Polymerization can be carried out.

In addition, the reaction products of unsaturated acids, such as acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, with a quaternized epichlorohydrin of the general formula (V) can be used (R ¹⁸ = C ₁ -C ₄₀ alkyl).

Examples include: (meth) acryloyloxyhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride and (meth) acryloyloxyhydroxypropyltriethylammonium chloride.

The monomers used can, provided they have ionizable groups contain, before or after the polymerization, partially or completely neutralized with acids or bases, e.g. the water solubility or dispersibility to a desired one Adjust dimension.

As neutralizing agent for monomers bearing acid groups, For example, prepolymers or polymers such as mineral bases Sodium carbonate, alkali hydroxides as well as ammonia, organic bases such as amino alcohols, especially 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, monoethanolamine, Diethanolamine, triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, Tri [(2-hydroxy) 1-propyl] amine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2-hydroxymethyl-1,3-propanediol and diamines such as Example lysine can be used.

As a neutralizing agent for cationizable groups Monomers, prepolymers or polymers can, for example, mineral acids such as hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid or phosphoric acid, and organic acids such as carboxylic acids, lactic acid, citric acid or others are used.

In addition to the above monomers can be used as monomers so-called macromonomers such as silicone-containing macromonomers with one or more radically polymerizable Groups are used. Such macromonomers are, for example in in EP 0408311 (A2, B1) and EP 0412704 (A2, B1), to which reference is expressly made here.

Furthermore, fluorine-containing monomers such as, for example are described in EP 558423 (A1, B1) or the molecular weight regulating compounds in combination or used alone.

The usual compounds known to the person skilled in the art can be used as regulators such as sulfur compounds (e.g. mercaptoethanol, 2-ethylhexyl thioglycolate, thioglycolic acid or dodecyl mercaptan) as well as tribromochloromethane or other compounds regulating the molecular weight of the polymers obtained act, are used.

Silicon compounds containing thiol groups may also be used be used.

Crosslinking monomers include compounds with at least two ethylenically unsaturated double bonds can be used like for example esters of ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids, such as acrylic acid or methacrylic acid and polyhydric alcohols, Ethers of at least dihydric alcohols such as Vinyl ether or allyl ether. Straight-chain are also suitable or branched, linear or cyclic aliphatic or aromatic hydrocarbons that have at least two double bonds have which with the aliphatic hydrocarbons must not be conjugated. Are also suitable Amides of acrylic and methacrylic acid and N-allylamines of at least divalent amines such as (1,2-diaminoethane, 1,3-diaminopropane). Also triallylamine or equivalent Ammonium salts, N-vinyl compounds of urea derivatives, at least divalent amides, cyanurates or urethanes. Further suitable crosslinkers are divinyldioxane, tetraallylsilane or Tetravinylsilane.

Particularly preferred crosslinkers are, for example, methylenebisacrylamide, Triallylamine and triallylammonium salts, divinylimidazole, N, N'-divinylethylene urea, reaction products more polyvalent Alcohols with acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, methacrylic acid ester and acrylic acid esters of polyalkylene oxides or polyvalent Alcohols with ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and / or epichlorohydrin have been implemented.

Further cosmetic to be used advantageously for the method Formulations contain ethylenically unsaturated prepolymers and additionally one or more reactive diluents if necessary.

Examples of prepolymers are (meth) acrylate-functional ones (Meth) acrylic copolymers, polyether (meth) acrylates, polyester (meth) acrylates, unsaturated polyesters, epoxy (meth) acrylates, urethane (meth) acrylates, Amino (meth) acrylates, melamine (meth) acylates, Silicone (meth) acrylates are used. Urethane (meth) acrylates are preferred, Polyester (meth) acrylates and / or aliphatic Urethane acrylates used. The prepolymers usually have a number average molecular weight of 500 to 50,000, preferred from 500 to 5000.

Prepolymers with at least one per molecule are preferably used Have 2, particularly preferably 3 to 6 double bonds. The binders used preferably also have a double bond equivalent weight from 400 to 2000, particularly preferred from 500 to 900. In addition, the binders are preferred a viscosity of 250 to 11000 mPas s.

Polyester (meth) acrylates are known in principle to the person skilled in the art. They can be produced by various methods. For example can use acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid directly as an acid component be used in the construction of the polyester. There is also the possibility of hydroxyalkyl esters of (meth) acrylic acid use as alcohol component directly in the construction of the polyester. However, the polyester (meth) acrylates are preferred by Acrylic made of polyesters. For example First, hydroxyl-containing polyesters are built up then reacted with acrylic or methacrylic acid. It can polyesters containing carboxyl groups are also initially built up, then with a hydroxyalkyl ester of acrylic or methacrylic acid be implemented. Unreacted (meth) acrylic acid can by washing out, distilling or preferably by reacting with an equivalent amount of a mono- or diepoxide compound using suitable catalysts, e.g. Triphenylphosphine, be removed from the reaction mixture.

Polyether (meth) acrylates are also principally known to the person skilled in the art known. They can be produced by various methods. For example, polyethers containing hydroxyl groups are esterified with acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, by Implementation of di- and / or polyhydric alcohols with different Amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide after good known methods (see e.g. Houben-Weyl, Volume XIV, 2, Macromolecular Substances II, (1963)) can be obtained. Can be used also polymerization products of tetrahydrofuran or butylene oxide.

Flexibilization of the polyether (meth) acrylates and the polyester (meth) acrylates is possible, for example, in that corresponding OH-functional prepolymers or oligomers (polyether or polyester base) with longer-chain, aliphatic Dicarboxylic acids, especially aliphatic dicarboxylic acids at least 6 carbon atoms, such as adipic acid, sebacic acid, Dodecanedioic acid and / or dimer fatty acids are implemented. This flexibilization reaction can take place before or after the addition of acrylic or methacrylic acid to the oligomers or prepolymers are carried out.

Furthermore, epoxy (meth) acrylates are also known to the person skilled in the art Coating agents are well known and therefore do not need to be explained in more detail. They are usually made by adding acrylic acid to epoxy resins, for example on epoxy resins based on bisphenol A or others commercial epoxy resins.

Flexibility of the epoxy (meth) acrylates is, for example analogously possible in that corresponding epoxy-functional Prepolymers or oligomers with longer-chain, aliphatic Dicabonic acids, especially aliphatic dicarboxylic acids with at least 6 carbon atoms, such as adipic acid, sebacic acid, Dodecanedioic acid and / or dimer fatty acids are implemented. This The flexibility reaction can take place before or after the addition from acrylic or methacrylic acid to the oligomers or prepolymers be performed.

Urethane (meth) acrylates are also well known to those skilled in the art and therefore do not need to be explained in more detail. You can are obtained by reacting a di- or polyisocyanate with a chain extender from the group of the diols / Polyols and / or diamines / polyamines and / or dithiols / polythiols and / or alkanolamines and subsequent implementation of the remaining free isocyanate groups with at least one hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylate or hydroxyalkyl esters of other ethylenically unsaturated Carboxylic acids.

1. das Äquivalentverhältnis der NCO-Gruppen zu den reaktiven Gruppen des Kettenverlängerungsmittels (Hydroxyl-, Amino- bzw. Mercaptylgrupppen) zwischen 3:1 und 1:2, bevorzugt bei 2:1, liegt und

2. die OH-Gruppen der Hydroxyalkylester der ethylenisch ungesättigten Carbonsäuren in stöchiometrischen Mengen in bezug auf die noch freien Isocyanatgruppen des Präpolymeren aus Isocyanat und Kettenverlängerungsmittel vorliegen.

The amounts of chain extender, di- or polyisocyanate and hydroxyalkyl ester are preferably chosen so that

1. the equivalent ratio of the NCO groups to the reactive groups of the chain extender (hydroxyl, amino or mercaptyl groups) is between 3: 1 and 1: 2, preferably 2: 1, and

2. the OH groups of the hydroxyalkyl esters of the ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids are present in stoichiometric amounts in relation to the isocyanate groups of the prepolymer from isocyanate and chain extender which are still free.

It is also possible to produce the polyurethane acrylates by first part of the isocyanate groups of a di or Polyisocyantes implemented with at least one hydroxyalkyl ester and the remaining isocyanate groups with a Chain extenders are implemented. In this case, too the amounts of chain extender, isocyanate and Hydroxyalkyl ester chosen so that the equivalent ratio of NCO groups to the reactive groups of the chain extender between 3: 1 and 1: 2, preferably 2: 1 and that Equivalent ratio of the remaining NCO groups to the OH groups of the hydroxyalkyl ester is 1: 1. Of course all intermediate forms of these two processes are also possible. For example, part of the isocyanate groups of a diisocyanate first reacted with a diol, then another part of the isocyanate groups with the hydroxyalkyl ester and then the remaining isocyanate groups be implemented with a diamine.

These different manufacturing processes for polyurethane acrylates are known (see e.g. EP-A-203 161) and therefore do not require any exact description.

A flexibility of the urethane (meth) acrylates is for example thereby possible that corresponding isocyanate-functional Prepolymers with longer-chain, aliphatic diols and / or Diamines, especially aliphatic diols and / or diamines at least 6 carbon atoms are implemented. This flexibilization reaction can be done before or after the addition of acrylic or

Methacrylic acid carried out on the oligomers or prepolymer become.

The prepolymers can optionally be used together with one or more Reactive thinners are used. The reactive thinners can be ethylenically unsaturated compounds. The reactive thinners can be mono-, di- or polyunsaturated. You serve usually to influence the rheological behavior and the material properties.

The reactive diluent (s) are preferred in the prepolymers in an amount of 0 to 70 wt .-%, particularly preferred from 15 to 65% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the Prepolymer.

Examples of reactive diluents are (meth) acrylic acid and their esters, maleic acid and their esters or half esters, vinyl acetate, Vinyl ethers, vinyl ureas and the like used. Examples are alkylene glycol di (meth) acrylate, polyethylene glycol di (meth) acrylate, 1,3-butanediol di (meth) acrylate, vinyl (meth) acrylate, Allyl (meth) acrylate, glycerol tri (meth) acrylate, trimethylolpropane tri (meth) acrylate, Trimethylolpropane di (meth) acrylate, styrene, Vinyl toluene, divinylbenzene, pentaerythritol tri (meth) acrylate, Pentaerythritol tetra (meth) acrylate, dipropylene glycol di (meth) acrylate, Hexanediol di (meth) acrylate, ethoxyethoxyethyl acrylate, N-vinylpyrrolidone, Phenoxyethyl acrylate, dimethylaminoethyl acrylate, Hydroxyethyl (meth) acrylate, butoxyethyl acrylate, isobornyl (meth) acrylate, Dimethylacrylamid and Dicyclopentylacrylat, which in the EP-A-250 631 described long-chain linear diacrylates with a molecular weight of 400 to 4000, preferably from 600 to 2500. For example, the two acrylate groups can be replaced by one Polyoxibutylene structure to be separated. Can also be used 1,12-dodecyl diacrylate and the reaction product of 2 moles Acrylic acid with one mole of a dimer fatty alcohol, generally Has 36 carbon atoms. Mixtures of are also suitable mentioned monomers.

Preferred reactive diluents are mono- and / or diacrylates, such as. Isobornyl acrylate, hexanediol diacrylate, tripropylene glycol diacrylate and Laromer ™ 8887 from BASF Aktiengesellschaft used. Isobornyl acrylate and hexanediol diacrylate are particularly preferred and tripropylene glycol diacrylate.

Further cosmetic to be used advantageously for the method Formulations contain unsaturated compounds that are derived from unsaturated fatty acids; for example triglycerides and alkyd resins (see DIN 53183). The alkyd resins can For example, be formulated as alkyd paints (see DIN 55945).

The coating compositions according to the invention also contain where appropriate, conventional auxiliaries and / or additives, e.g. light stabilizers (e.g. HALS compounds, Benzotriazoles, oxalanilide, etc.), slip additives, polymerization inhibitors, Matting agents, defoamers, leveling agents and film-forming aids, e.g. Cellulose derivatives, or others Additives.

According to the invention, the use is also cosmetic Formulations containing phenolic, melamine, and formaldehyde resins contain or contain the substances from which these resins arise under the influence of NIR radiation. In particular are crosslinking systems suitable, as described in U.S. 4,588,760 and U.S. 4,278,659 and are expressly referred to here is taken. Other particularly suitable ingredients are the polymers and dispersions described in DE-A 198 165 27.

According to the invention, the use is also cosmetic Formulations under the influence of NIR radiation macromolecules form with Si-O-Si groupings. Here are in particular the ingredients mentioned in DE-A 198 227 22 and Suitable formulations to which express reference is made here becomes.

The cosmetic formulations according to the invention can also Dyes included. In particular, dyes are the NIR radiation absorb, suitable. NIR absorbing dyes are known to the person skilled in the art and are described in the literature. Especially NIR polymerization initiators and are preferred NIR photocatalysts as described in EP-A 774 492, U.S. 5,607,814. U.S. 5,686,639, U.S. 5,858,604 and the literature mentioned there are described and expressly referred to here becomes.

wobei

R

für gleiche oder ungleiche aromatische oder chinoide Reste steht,

X

für -Cl oder für -N(Phenyl)₂ steht und

M

für -CH₂- oder -CH₂-CH₂- steht

geeignet. Ein Beispiel für derartige Verbindungen ist der kationische NIR-Farbstoff ( 1 ) :

For example, cationic dyes that contain at least one of the following groups are

in which

R

represents identical or different aromatic or quinoid radicals,

X

represents -Cl or -N (phenyl) ₂ and

M

stands for -CH ₂ - or -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -

suitable. An example of such compounds is the cationic NIR dye ( 1 ):

To improve the effectiveness of the NIR radiation, compounds which contain groups ROOR or R'-N = NR 'can be added to the above-mentioned monomers, prepolymers and polymers. This is of particular interest if the compounds contain ethylenically unsaturated groups. R stands for identical or dissimilar organic radicals or for hydrogen. R 'represents identical or dissimilar organic radicals. Hydrogen peroxide, hydroperoxides, peroxides, percarbonates and peresters are preferred. Inorganic per compounds such as sodium, potassium and ammonium peroxodisulfate can also be added. Further suitable initiators are the redox initiator systems known to the person skilled in the art, for example Fe (II) / H ₂ O ₂ , tartaric acid / H ₂ O ₂ , t-butyl hydroperoxide / tartaric acid, ascorbic acid / H ₂ O ₂ or t-butyl hydroperoxide / ascorbic acid.

Suitable compounds of the type R-O-O-R are, for example Acetylcyclohexanesulfonyl peroxide, dicetyl peroxydicarbonate, Diisopropyl peroxydicarbonate, t-amyl perneodecanoate, t-butyl permeodecanoate, Bis (2,4-dichlorobenzoyl) peroxide, t-butyl perpivalate, Bis (3,5,5-trimethylhexanoyl) peroxide, dioctanoyl peroxide, didecanoyl peroxide, Dilauroyl peroxide, bis (2-methylbenzoyl) peroxide, Succinyl peroxide, diacetyl peroxide, dibenzoyl peroxide, t-butyl per-2-ethylhexanoate, Bis (4-chlorobenzoyl) peroxide, t-butyl perisobutyrate, t-butyl permaleinate, 1,1-bis (t-butyl peroxy) -3,5,5-trimethyl-cyclohexane, 1,1-bis (t-butylperoxy) cyclohexane, t-butylperoxy-isopropyl carbonate, t-butyl-per-3,5,5-trimethylhexanoate, 2,5-dimethylhexane-2,5-diperbenzoate, t-butyl peracetate, t-butyl perbenzoate, 2,2-bis (t-butylperoxy) butane, 2,2-bis (t-butylperoxy) propane, Dicumyl peroxide, 2,5-dimethylhexane-2,5-di-t-butyl peroxide, 3-t-butylperoxy-3-phenylphthalide, di-t-amylperoxide, α-α'-bis (t-butylperoxyisopropyl) benzene, 3,5-bis (t-butylperoxy) -3,5-dimethyldioxolan-1,2, Di-t-butyl peroxide 2,5-dimethyl-hexy-3-2,5-di-t-butyl peroxide, 3,3,6,6,9,9-hexamethyl-1,2,4,5-tetraoxa-cyclononane, p-methane hydroperoxide, pinane hydroperoxide, diisopropylbenzene mono-α-hydroperoxide, Cumene hydroperoxide, t-butyl hydroperoxide, Dimyristyl peroxydicarbonate, dicyclohexyl peroxydicarbonate, Bis (4-t-butylcyclohexyl) peroxydicarbonate, di-n-butyl peroxydicarbonate, Di-2-ethylhexyl peroxydicarbonate, diisotridecyl peroxydicarbonate.

Suitable compounds of the type R'-N = N-R 'are, for example 2,2'-azobis (4-methoxy-2,4-dimethylvaleronitrile), 2,2'-azobis (2,4-dimethylvaleronitrile), 2,2'-azobis (isobutyronitrile), dimethyl-2,2'-azobis (isobutyrate), 2,2'-azobis (2-methylbutyronitrile), 1,1'-azobis (1-cyclo-hexane carbonitrile), 2- (carbamoylazo) isobutyronitrile, 2,2'-azobis (2,4,4-trimethylpentane), 2,2'-azobis (N, N 'dimethyleneisobutyramidine) dihydrochloride, 2,2'-azobis (2-amidino-propane) dihydrochloride, 2,2'-azobis (N, N ' dimethyleneisobutyramidine), 4,4'-azobis (4-cyano-pentanoic acid), 2,2'-azobis [2-methyl-N- (2-hydroxyethyl) propionic acid amide].

Instead of compounds of the type R-O-O-R and R'-N = N-R ' also compounds R-R suitable under for the application typical conditions break down into radicals, for example 3,4-dimethyl-3,4-diphenylhexane and 3,4-dimethyl-3,4-diphenylbutane.

The above monomers, prepolymers and polymers can to improve the effectiveness of the NIR radiation to the expert known desiccants can be added. These are drying agents, especially for unsaturated compounds and their Derivatives (e.g. alkyd resins, triglycerides). An example for is manganese (II) acetate. Sikkatives are particularly suitable Effect is enhanced by NIR radiation.

The following additions are then used in particular in the cosmetic agents for the method according to the invention used when the above monomers, prepolymers and polymeric epoxy groups contain:

Aliphatic polyamines H ₂ N (CH ₂ CH ₂ NH) _n H, e.g. diethylenetriamines (DETA, n = 2) and triethylenetetramines (TETA, n = 3), aliphatic diamines based on propylene oxide and ammonia H ₂ N (CH ₂ CH ( CH ₃ ) O) _n CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) NH ₂ , for example Jeffamine D-230 (Texaco Chemical Co.) with n = 2 to 3, polyamide diamines or amidopolyamines (for example from the reaction of dimer fatty acids with DETA or TETA), cycloaliphatic diamines, e.g. cyclohexane-1,2-diamine, 4- (2-aminopropane-2-yl) -1-methylcyclohexan-1-amine, or menthandiamine, aromatic diamines, e.g. bis (4-aminophenyl) methane (MDA or methylene dianiline) and bis (4-aminophenyl) sulfones (DADS, DDS, or dapsone), carboxylic acid anhydrides, for example methylbicyclo [2.2.1] heptene-2,3-dicarboxylic acid anhydride, 1,2-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid anhydride, hexahydrophthalic anhydride or _3- phthalic anhydride , with identical or dissimilar organic residues (preferably alkyl residues), melamine, urea and phenol formaldehyde adducts (also aminoplasts, phenopla ste), polycarboxylic acid polyester, dicyandiamide, Lewis acids and bases, for example boron trifluoride complexed with methylethylamine, 2,4,6-tris (N, N-dimethylaminomethyl) phenol (Rohm & Haas DMP-30), N, N-dimethylbenzylamine.

The above polymers, prepolymers and monomers are in the cosmetic agent to be used according to the invention at 0.05 up to 99% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 50% by weight and particularly preferably contain 0.2 to 20 wt .-%. In a particularly preferred Execution, the cosmetic products also contain more than 50 wt .-% fluids, for example as a solvent or blowing agents. Examples of these fluids are water, ethanol, isopropanol, propane, butane, dimethyl ether, Diethyl ether, carbon dioxide, compressed air, hexafluoroethane and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

The cosmetic formulations used according to the invention can in addition to the above substances and their mixtures contain common auxiliaries in cosmetics, such as plasticizers, Film forming aids, pigments, perfumes, thickeners, surfactants, Preservatives, cosmetic ingredients such as phytantriol, Vitamins and provitamins, for example vitamins A, E and C, Retinol, bisabolol, panthenol, natural and synthetic light stabilizers Natural substances, blowing agents, solubilizers, Repellents, bleaches, colorants, tinting agents, tanning agents, Reflectors, proteins, ceramide, AH acids (alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acids such as. Lactic acid and salicylic acid) and their Salts, fruit acids, collagen, protein hydrolyzates, stabilizers, pH regulators, emulsifiers, gelling agents, consistency enhancers, Silicones, humectants, moisturizers, UV protection agents or other conventional additives, added alone or in combination become.

The auxiliaries can be present during the polymerization and / or added after the polymerization.

Other common additives may include fatty substances such as mineral and synthetic oils such as paraffins, silicone oils and aliphatic hydrocarbons with more than 8 carbon atoms, animal and vegetable oils such as sunflower oil, coconut oil, avocado oil, olive oil, lanolin or waxes, fatty acids , Fatty acid esters such as triglycerides of C ₆ -C ₃₀ fatty acids, wax esters such as jojoba oil, fatty alcohols, petroleum jelly, hydrogenated lanolin. Mixtures of the same can of course also be used.

Common thickeners in such formulations are cross-linked Polyacrylic acids and their derivatives, polysaccharides such as Xanthan gum, agar agar, alginates or tyloses, cellulose derivatives, e.g. Carboxymethyl cellulose or hydroxycarboxymethyl cellulose, Fatty alcohols, monoglycerides and fatty acids, polyvinyl alcohol and Polyvinyl pyrrolidone.

Germ inhibitors can also be used. This generally includes all suitable preservatives with specific activity against gram-positive bacteria, e.g. Triclosan (2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether), chlorhexidine (1,1'-Hexamethylene bis [5- (4-chlorophenyl) biguanide) and TTC (3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide). Quaternary ammonium compounds are in principle also suitable, but are preferred for disinfectant soaps and washing lotions are used. Numerous too Fragrance substances have antimicrobial properties. Specific Combinations with particular effectiveness compared to gram-positive Bacteria are used for the composition of so-called deoparfums. Also a large number of essential oils or their characteristic ones Ingredients such as Clove oil (eugenol), mint oil (menthol) or thyme oil (thymol), show a pronounced antimicrobial Effectiveness. The antibacterial substances are preferred used in concentrations of approx. 0.1 to 0.3% by weight.

Suitable solvents are water and lower monoalcohol or polyols having 1 to 6 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof; preferred mono alcohols or polyols are ethanol, i-propanol, propylene glycol, glycerin and sorbitol. Other preferred auxiliaries are solvents and propellants the group of dimethyl ether, propane, butane, fluorinated hydrocarbons, cyclic silkones, branched and unbranched alkanes, organic esters and ethers.

The cosmetic formulations used according to the invention in addition to the above substances and their mixtures additional polymers such as polyamides, polyurethanes, Polyesters, homo- and copolymers of ethylenically unsaturated Monomers are present. Preferred homo- and copolymers are available from the above monomers. This can be done by Carboxylate groups, sulfonate groups, phosphonate groups and by functionalized nitrogenous cationic groups his.

Silicones and alkoxylated silicones and compounds derived therefrom may also be present. Examples of such polymers, some of which are also used in cosmetics, are listed in the following list: INCI / CTFA name polymer Manufacturer Acrylate copolymer Amerhold Amerchol PVP / acrylate copolymer Luviflex VBM 35 BASF PVP / VA Luviskol VA BASF Polyvinyl caprolactam Luviskol Plus BASF VA / crotonate copolymer Luviset CA 66 BASF VA / crotonate / vinyl propionate copolymer Luviset CAP BASF Acrylate / acrylamide copolymer Ultrahold 8 BASF Acrylate / acrylamide copolymer Ultrahold Strong BASF Acrylate copolymer Luvimer MAE BASF Acrylate copolymer Luvimer 100P, 36D, 30E BASF Polyquatium 46 Luviquat Hold BASF Polyurethane-1 Luviset PUR BASF Methacryloyl ethyl betaine / acrylate copolymer Slide former Clariant Diglycol / CHDM / isophthalate / SIP copolymer Eastman AQ polymer Eastman Acrylate / diacetone acrylamide copolymer Plascise L53 Goo Chemicals Butyl acrylate lauryl methacrylate Diahold EX-55 / Plascise L 1210 Goo Chemicals PVP PVP K ISP PVP / VA PVP / PA ISP Vinyl Caprolactam / PVP / Dimethylamino-methyl methacrylate copolymer Copolymer VC 713 (= Advantage HC) ISP Vinyl Caprolactam / PVP / Dimethylamino-methyl methacrylate copolymer H2OLD EP-1 ISP PVM / MA butyl ester copolymer Gantrez ES 425 ISP VA / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymer Advantage Plus (CP, V) ISP PVM / MA ethyl ester copolymer Omnirez 2000 ISP PVP / DMAPA acrylate copolymer Styleeze CC ― 10 ISP PVP / vinyl caprolactam / DMAPA acrylate copolymer Aquaflex SF ― 40 ISP N ― methyl acryloyl oxethyl N, N ― dimethylammonium ― a ― N ― methyl carboxybetaine alkyl methacrylate Yukaformer R205 Mitsubishi N ― methyl acryloyl oxethyl N, N ― dimethylammonium ― a ― N ― methyl carboxybetaine alkyl methacrylate Yukaformer SM Mitsubishi VA / crotonate / copolymer Resyn 28-1310 National Starch VA / crotonate / neodecanoate copolymer Resyn 28-2930 National Starch Octylacrylamide / acrylate / butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer Amphomer 28―4910 National Starch Octylacrylamide / acrylate / butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer Amphomer LV ― 71 National Starch Acrylate / octylacrylamide copolymer Amphomer HC 28―4942 (= Versatyl) National Starch Octylacrylamide / acrylate copolymer Versatyl 90 National Starch Acrylate copolymer Balance 0/55 National Starch Octylacrylamide / acrylate / butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer Balance 47 (= Lovocryl 47) National Starch / Acrylate / Hydroxyester Acrylate Copolymer Acudyne Rohm & Haas Diglycol / CHDM / Isophthalates / SIP copolymer Eastman AQ Eastman Polyurethanes ― 1 Luviset PUR BASF PEG / PPG - 25/25 Dimethicone / Acrylates Copolymer Luviflex Silk BASF

The above-mentioned polyamides are in EP 0696607 (A1) and in EP 0787480 (A1).

Other suitable cationic polymers: With the designation Polyquaternium according to INCI, e.g. Copolymers from vinyl pyrrolidone / N-vinylimidazolium salts (Luviquat ™ FC, Luviquat ™ HM, Luviquat ™ MS, Luviquat ™ Care), copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone / Dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, quaternized with diethyl sulfate (Luviquat ™ PQ 11), copolymers of N-vinylcaprolactam / N-vinylpyrrolidone / N-vinylimidazolium salts (Luviquat ™ Hold); cationic Cellulose derivatives (Polyquaternium-4 and -10), acrylamide copolymers (Polyquaternium-), Styleeze ™ CC-10, Aquaflex ™ SF-40, chitosan derivatives as well as polylysine and lysine copolymers.

Other suitable betaine polymers: For example Yukaformer ™ (R205, SM) and Diaformer ™.

Other suitable copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl propionate, Polysiloxanes, polyethyleneimines and their salts, polyvinylamines and their salts, cellulose derivatives, polyaspartic acid salts and derivatives.

Also suitable are biopolymers, i.e. Polymers and Monomers obtained from naturally renewable raw materials and are made up of natural monomer components, e.g. Cellulose derivatives, chitin, chitosan, DNA, hyaloronic acid and RNA derivatives, alkyd resins and unsaturated triglycerides.

The manufacture of cosmetic or dermatological preparations takes place according to the usual rules familiar to the expert.

Such formulations are advantageously in the form of Emulsions preferably as water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions in front. However, it is also possible according to the invention and possibly other types of formulation choose, for example hydrodispersions, gels, oils, oleogels, multiple emulsions, for example in the form of W / O / W or O / W / O emulsions, anhydrous ointments or ointment bases, etc.

Emulsions which can be used according to the invention are produced according to known methods.

In addition to the copolymer according to the invention, the emulsions contain usual components, such as fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters and in particular Fatty acid triglycerides, fatty acids, lanolin and derivatives of which, natural or synthetic oils or waxes and Emulsifiers in the presence of water.

The selection of the additives specific to the emulsion type and the preparation suitable emulsions is described for example in Schrader, basics and formulations of cosmetics, Hüthig book Verlag, Heidelberg, 2nd edition, 1989, third part, whereupon herewith explicit reference is made.

For example, a skin cream useful in accordance with the invention may e.g. as a W / O emulsion available. Such an emulsion contains an aqueous one Phase, which is carried out in an oil or fat phase is emulsified.

The concentration of the emulsifier system in this type of emulsion is about 4 and 35% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion; the fat phase makes up about 20 and 60% by weight and the aqueous phases about 20 and 70% by weight, each based on the total weight of the emulsion. The emulsifiers are those which are usually used in this type of emulsion. For example, they are selected from: C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ sorbitan fatty acid esters; Esters of hydroxystearic acid and C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols; Mono- and diesters of C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ fatty acids and glycerin or polyglycerin; Condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene glycols; oxypropylenated / oxyethylenated C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ fatty alcohols; polycyclic alcohols such as sterols; high molecular weight aliphatic alcohols such as lanolin; Mixtures of oxypropylene / polyglycerolated alcohols and magnesium isostearate; Succinic esters of polyoxyethylenated or polyoxypropylenated fatty alcohols; and mixtures of magnesium, calcium, lithium, zinc or aluminum lanolate and hydrogenated lanolin or lanolin alcohol.

Suitable fat components, which are in the fat phase of the Emulsions that can be included include hydrocarbon oils, such as paraffin oil, purcellin oil, perhydrosqualene and microcrystalline solutions Wax in these oils; animal or vegetable Oils such as sweet almond oil, avocado oil, calophylum oil, lanolin and Derivatives thereof, castor oil, sesame oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, karite oil, Hoplostethus oil; mineral oils, the start of their distillation under atmospheric pressure at approx. 250 ° C and their distillation end point is at 410 ° C, e.g. Vaseline oil; Ester more saturated or unsaturated fatty acids such as alkyl myristates, e.g. i-propyl, butyl or cetyl myristate, hexadecyl stearate, ethyl or i-propyl palmitate, octanoic or decanoic acid triglycerides and Cetylricinoleate.

The fat phase can also be silicone oils soluble in other oils, such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane and the silicone glycol copolymer, Contain fatty acids and fatty alcohols.

In order to favor the retention of oils, waxes can also be used use, such as Carnauba wax, candella wax, beeswax, microcrystalline wax, ozokerite wadhs and Ca, Mg and Al Oleates, myristates, linoleates and stearates.

In general, these water-in-oil emulsions are made that the fat phase and the emulsifier in the batch container are given. It is heated at a temperature from 70 to 75 ° C, then adds the oil-soluble ingredients and add water while stirring, which is previously on the same temperature was heated and in which the water-soluble Previously dissolved ingredients; you stir until you get one Has emulsion of the desired fineness, then leaves it at room temperature cool, stirring less if necessary.

Furthermore, a care emulsion according to the invention can be used as an O / W emulsion available. Such an emulsion usually contains an oil phase, emulsifiers, the oil phase in the water phase stabilize, and an aqueous phase that usually thickens is present.

• Alkohole, Diole oder Polyole sowie deren Ether, vorzugsweise Ethanol, Isopropanol, Propylenglycol, Glycerin, Ethylenglycolmonoethylether;
• übliche Verdickungsmittel bzw. Gelbildner, wie z.B. vernetzte Polyacrylsäuren und deren Derivate, Polysaccharide wie Xan-than Gum oder Alginate, Carboxymethylcellulose oder Hydroxycarboxymethylcellulose, Fettalkohole, Polyvinylalkohol und Polyvinylpyrrolidon.

The aqueous phase of the O / W emulsion of the preparations according to the invention optionally contains

• Alcohols, diols or polyols and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerin, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether;
• Conventional thickeners or gel formers, such as, for example, crosslinked polyacrylic acids and their derivatives, polysaccharides such as xan-than-gum or alginates, carboxymethyl cellulose or hydroxycarboxymethyl cellulose, fatty alcohols, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone.

• Ester aus gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten C₃-C₃₀-Alkancarbonsäuren und gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten C₃-C₃₀-Alkoholen, aus aromatischen Carbonsäuren und gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten C₃-C₃₀-Alkoholen, beispielhaft Isopropylmyristat, Isopropylstearat, Hexyldecylstearat, Oleyloleat; außerdem synthetische, halbsynthetische und natürliche Gemische solcher Ester, wie Jojobaöl;
• verzweigte und/oder unverzweigte Kohlenwasserstoffe und -wachse;
• Silikonöle wie Cyclomethicon, Dimethylpolysiloxan, Diethylpolysiloxan, Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxan sowie Mischungen daraus;
• Dialkylether;
• Mineralöle und Mineralwachse;
• Triglyceride gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter C₈-C₂₄-Alkancarbonsäuren; sie können ausgewählt werden aus synthetischen, halbsynthetischen oder natürlichen Ölen, wie Olivenöl, Palmöl, Mandelöl oder Mischungen.

The oil phase contains common oil components in cosmetics, such as:

• Esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched C ₃ -C ₃₀ -alkane carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched C ₃ -C ₃₀ alcohols, of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched C ₃ -C ₃₀ alcohols, for example isopropyl myristate, isopropyl stearate, hexyldecyl stearate, oleyl oleate; also synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters as jojoba oil;
• branched and / or unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes;
• Silicone oils such as cyclomethicone, dimethylpolysiloxane, diethylpolysiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and mixtures thereof;
• Dialkyl ether;
• Mineral oils and mineral waxes;
• Triglycerides of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched C ₈ -C ₂₄ alkane carboxylic acids; they can be selected from synthetic, semi-synthetic or natural oils, such as olive oil, palm oil, almond oil or mixtures.

Preferred emulsifiers are O / W emulsifiers, such as polyglycerol esters, Sorbitan esters or partially esterified glycerides, in Consideration.

The production can be done by melting the oil phase at approx. 80 ° C respectively; the water-soluble components are in hot Dissolved water, added slowly and with stirring to the oil phase; homogenized and stirred cold.

The method according to the invention is also suitable for use in Wash and shower gel formulations and in bath preparations.

Such formulations contain, in addition to the listed polymers usually anionic surfactants as base surfactants and amphoteric and nonionic surfactants as cosurfactants, as well as lipids, perfume oils, Dyes, organic acids, preservatives and antioxidants as well as thickeners / gelling agents, skin conditioners and Humectant.

In the washing, showering and bathing preparations all can be used in body cleansers Usually used anionic, neutral, amphoteric or cationic surfactants can be used.

The formulations contain 2 to 50% by weight of surfactants, preferably 5 to 40% by weight, particularly preferably 8 to 30% by weight.

Suitable anionic surfactants are, for example, alkyl sulfates, Alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, alkyl aryl sulfonates, alkyl succinates, Alkyl sulfosuccinates, N-alkoyl sarcosinates, acyl taurates, Acyl isethionates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkyl ether carboxylates, Alpha olefin sulfonates, especially the alkali and Alkaline earth metal salts, e.g. Sodium, potassium, magnesium, calcium, as well as ammonium and triethanolamine salts. The alkyl ether sulfates, Alkyl ether phosphates and alkyl ether carboxylates can be between 1 to 10 ethylene oxide or propylene oxide units, preferred Have 1 to 3 ethylene oxide units in the molecule.

For example, sodium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, Sodium lauryl ether sulfate, ammonium lauryl ether sulfate, Sodium lauryl sarcosinate, sodium oleyl succinate, ammonium lauryl sulfosuccinate, Sodium dodecylbenzenesulfonate, triethanolamine dodecylbenzenesulfonate.

Suitable amphoteric surfactants are, for example, alkyl betaines, Alkylamidopropylbetaines, alkylsulfobetaines, alkylglycinates, Alkyl carboxyglycinates, alkyl amphoacetates or propionates, Alkyl amphodiacetates, or dipropionates.

For example, cocodimethylsulfopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine, Cocamidopropyl betaine or sodium cocamphopropionate be used.

The reaction products are suitable, for example, as nonionic surfactants of aliphatic alcohols or alkylphenols with 6 to 20 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain, which is linear or branched can be with ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide. The The amount of alkylene oxide is about 6 to 60 moles per mole of alcohol. Furthermore, alkylamine oxides, mono- or dialkylalkanolamides, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycols, ethoxylated fatty acid amides, Alkyl polyglycosides or sorbitan ether esters are suitable.

In addition, the washing, showering and bathing preparations can be usual contain cationic surfactants, e.g. quaternary ammonium compounds, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride.

In addition, other conventional cationic polymers can also be used become, e.g. Copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride (Polyquaternium-7), cationic cellulose derivatives (Polyquaternium-4, -10), guar-hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride (INCI: Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chlorides), copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and quaternized N-vinylimidazole (Polyquaternium-16, -44, -46), copolymers of N-vinypyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, quaternized with diethyl sulfate (polyquaternium-11) and others.

Furthermore, the washing and shower gel formulations and Bath preparations thickeners, e.g. Cooking Salt, PEG-55, Propylene Glycol oleates, PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleates and others, as well Preservatives, other active and auxiliary substances and water contain.

In the use according to the invention in hair cosmetics, especially when used as a setting agent, it is advantageous To use formulations from which after application Glass temperature greater than 20 ° C results.

Examples

1. in üblicher Weise auf Haartressen appliziert und aus 25 cm Entfernung für 10 min mit einer NIR-Strahlungsquelle (NIR-Anlage Typ MPP-120-10 der Firma Industrie Servis, D-83052 Bruckmühl) bestrahlt. Die Intensität der NIR-Strahlungsquelle wird so moduliert, daß keine Überhitzung an der Substratoberfläche stattfindet. Alle Haartressen zeigen nach Bestrahlung hohe Formstabilität. Die erfindungsgemäß behandelten Haartressen sind insbesondere nach Besprühen mit Wasser formstabiler als solche, die mit konventionellen Haarfestigern ohne NIR-Strahlung behandelt werden. Beim Bestrahlen mit NIR-Strahlung erwärmen sich die Haartressen weniger stark als bei der Bestrahlung mit einer konventionellen IR-Strahlungsquelle.

2. in für Nagellacke üblicher Weise auf den Fingernagel von Probanden appliziert und wie oben bestrahlt. Es bilden sich Filme mit gegenüber konventionell getrocknetem Nagellack verbesserter Kratzfestigkeit.

3. auf Kollagenfilm, der als Modell für menschliche Haut dient, aufgebracht und wie oben bestrahlt. Der Kollagenfilm ist 24 h in Wasser bei 23°C vorgequollen. Der gravimetrische Vergleich von unbehandeltem und behandeltem Film zeigt, daß der behandelte Film weniger Feuchtigkeit abgibt, als der unbehandelte Film.

The wording below will be

1. Applied in the usual way to hair tresses and irradiated from a distance of 25 cm for 10 min with an NIR radiation source (NIR system type MPP-120-10 from Industrie Servis, D-83052 Bruckmühl). The intensity of the NIR radiation source is modulated so that there is no overheating on the substrate surface. All hair tresses show high dimensional stability after irradiation. The hair tresses treated according to the invention are more dimensionally stable, especially after spraying with water, than those which are treated with conventional hair setting agents without NIR radiation. When irradiated with NIR radiation, the hair tresses heat up less strongly than when irradiated with a conventional IR radiation source.

2. Applied in the usual way for nail polishes on the fingernails of test subjects and irradiated as above. Films are formed with improved scratch resistance compared to conventionally dried nail polish.

3. applied to collagen film, which serves as a model for human skin, and irradiated as above. The collagen film is pre-swollen in water at 23 ° C for 24 h. The gravimetric comparison of untreated and treated film shows that the treated film releases less moisture than the untreated film.

example 1 Hair fixative

1.50 g Polyurethane acrylate (Laromer LR 8987, BASF, Ludwigshafen / Rh.) 1.50 g Vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymer (Luviskol VA 64, BASF, Ludwigshafen / Rh.) 0.20 g 1,2-propylene glycol 0.15 g Perfume 0.03 g Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride 0.008 g Cumyl peroxyneodecanoate (as an aqueous emulsion, Trigonox 99-W40, Akzo Nobel Chemicals, Amersfoort, NL) 20.21 g water 76.41 g Ethanol

Example 2 Colored hair fixative

0.88 g Oligoether acrylate (LR 8863, BASF, Ludwigshafen / Rh.) 2.63 g Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymer (Luviskol VA 73, BASF, Ludwigshafen / Rh.) 0.20 g 1,2-propylene glycol 0.15 g Perfume 0.05 g Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride 0.005 g 2,2'-azobis (2,4,4-trimethylpentane), (VR-110 of Wako, Osaka, JP) 0.05 g Basic Brown 17 (C.I. 12 251) 0.01 g Basic Blue 7 (C.I. 42 595) 0.002 g Basic Violet 14 (C.I. 42 510) 59.89 g water 46.28 g Ethanol

Example 3 80% VOC pump spray

1.50 g inorganic-organic hybrid prepolysiloxane Mercaptopropyltrieth-oxysilane, vinyltriethoxysilane and aqueous hydrochloric acid (1 N) (according to DE 19822722 A1, system 11.) 1.50 g inorganic-organic hybrid prepolysiloxane 3-glycidoxypropyl-tri-methoxysilane, tetramethoxysilane, Tributoxy aluminum, tetrapropoxy zirconium and Triethanolamine (according to DE 19822722 A1, system 3.) 5.00 g Vinyl acetate / crotonic acid / polyethylene oxide copolymer 0.30 g Perfume 11.70 g water 80.00 g Ethanol

Example 4 Hair fixative with UV protection

1.00 g Polyester acrylate (Laromer LR 8895, from BASF, Ludwigs- port / Rh. 2.00 g Polyvinylpyrrolidone (Luviskol, BASF, Ludwigs- harbor / Rh.) 0.20 g Perfume 0.15 g Glycerin (85 percent) 0.10 g 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone 0.01 g 2,2'-azobis [2-methyl-N- (2-hydroxyethyl) propionic acid amide] (VA-086 from Wako, Osaka, JP) 61.30 g water 35.25 g Ethanol

Example 5 Hair fixatives

1.12 g Glyceraldehyde resorcinol precondensate after U.S. 4,278,659, Formulation 1 1.00 g Lackleinöl 2.12 g Polyvinylpyrrolidone (Luviskol, BASF, Ludwigs- harbor / Rh.) 0.40 g Hydrogenated castor oil, ethoxylated with 40 moles of ethylene oxide 0.10 g tert-butyl hydroperoxide (in the form of the 70% aqueous solution, Trigonox A-W70, Akzo Nobel Chemicals, Amersfoort, NL) 0.03 g Manganese (II) acetate 0.20 g Perfume 95.16 g water

Example 6 Foam strengthener with strong strengthening

1.00 g Trimethylolpropane ethoxylate 20 triacrylate (Sartomer SR 415, Sartomer, Exton, PA) 1.00 g Bisphenol A ethoxylate 30 dimethacrylate (Sartomer SR 9036, Sartomer, Exton, PA) 2.00 g Vinyl pyrrolidone / methylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (Copolymer 845, from ISP, Wayne, NJ) 0.45 g Glyceryl laurate 0.15 g Perfume 0.16 g Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride 0.02 g 2,2'-azobis (2-amidino-propane) dihydrochloride (V-50 der Wako, Osaka, JP) 5.00 g Propane / butane (5.0 bar) 14.95 g Ethanol 75.29 g water

Example 7 mousse

2.00 g Aromatic polyurethane acrylate (Laromer LR 8949, BASF, Ludwigshafen / Rh.) 1.00 g Aliphatic polyurethane acrylate (Laromer LR 8983, BASF, Ludwigshafen / Rh.) 1.00 g Vinyl pyrrolidone / methylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (Copolymer 958, from ISP, Wayne, NJ) 0.20 g 1,2-propylene glycol 0.17 g Perfume 0.10 g Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride 6.00 g Propane / butane (5.0 bar) 0.02 g 2,2'-azobis (N, N 'dimethyleneisobutyramidine) (VA-061 the Wako, Osaka, JP) 18.66 g Ethanol 70.87 g water

Example 8 mousse

2.00 g Poly (ethylene glycol) bis (epoxypropyl ether) (Aldrich, Deisenhofen) 2.00 g Chitosan 2.00 g Polyvinylpyrrolidone (Luviskol K 30, BASF, Ludwigs- harbor / Rh.) 0.20 g 1,2-propylene glycol 0.17 g Perfume 0.10 g Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride 6.00 g Propane / butane (5.0 bar) 0.03 g tert-Butylperoxybenzoate (in the form of the 50% solution in Isododecane, Trigonox F-C50, Akzo Nobel Chemicals, Amersfoort, NL) 69.04 g Ethanol 19.49 g water

Example 9 Nourishing foaming agent

1.12 g Polyurethane acrylate dispersion according to DE 19816527 A1, Formulation I.1 1.12 g Polyurethane acrylate dispersion according to DE 19816527 A1, Formulation II.1 3.40 g Vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate terpolymer (copolymer VC 713, ISP, Wayne, NJ) 0.60 g Formic acid 0.60 g Hydrogenated castor oil, ethoxylated with 40 moles of ethylene oxide 0.22 g Decyl polyglucoside 0.09 g Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride 0.20 g Perfume 6.00 g Propane / butane (5.0 bar) 87.77 g water

Example 10 Styling hair spray

1.14 g Amine-modified polyurethane acrylate (Laromer 8869, BASF, Ludwigshafen / Rh.) 1.00 g Oligoether acrylate (Laromer 8967, BASF, Ludwigs- harbor / Rh.) 1.00 g Polyester acrylate (PE 55 F, from BASF, Ludwigshafen / Rh.) 1.50 g Octylacrylamide / butylaminoethyl methacrylate / methacrylate Copolymer (Amphomer 28-4910, National Starch, Bridgewater, NJ) 0.15 g Perfume 0.04 g 2,5-bis (tert-butylperoxy) -2,5-dimethyl-3-hexyne (Trigonox 145-E85, Akzo Nobel Chemicals, Amersfoort, NL) 0.02 g Dimethyl-2,2'-azobis (isobutyrate) (V-601 from Wako, Osaka, JP) 10.67 g Butane (1.5 bar) 33.33 g Propane / butane 51.21 g Ethanol

Example 11 Pump spray

2.79 g Polyester acrylate (PE 55 W, from BASF, Ludwigshafen / Rh.) 0.30 g Perfume 0.10 g Dimethylsiloxane / ethylene glycol copolymer (Belsil DMC 6032, Wacker, Burghausen) 0.02 g tert-butyl hydroperoxide (in the form of the 70% aqueous solution, Trigonox A-W70, Akzo Nobel Chemicals, Amersfoort, NL) 11.53 g water 85.28 g Ethanol

Example 12 80% VOC hairspray

2.45 g Aromatic polyurethane acrylate (Laromer LR 8983, BASF, Ludwigshafen / Rh.) 4.00 g Vinyl acetate / crotonic acid / vinyl propionate copolymer (Luviset CAP, BASF, Ludwigshafen / Rh.) 0.20 g Cyclopenta (dimethylsiloxane) 0.15 g Perfume 0.10 g Bis (3,5,5-trimethylhexanoyl) peroxide (in the form of 50% aqueous emulsion, Trigonox 36 W, Akzo Nobel Chemicals, Amersfoort, NL) 13.20 g water 40.00 g Ethanol 40.00 g Dimethyl ether

Example 13 Pump spray

2.79 g Polyester acrylate (PE 55 W, from BASF, Ludwigshafen / Rh.) 0.30 g Perfume 0.20 g Dimethylsiloxane / ethylene glycol copolymer (Belsil DMC 6032, Wacker, Burghausen) 0.02 g NIR initiator (No. 1 ) 11.53 g water 85.28 g Ethanol

Example 14 Pump spray

0.50 g Alkyd resin (Alkydal F 300, Bayer, Leverkusen) 1.00 g Caprolactone acrylate (Sartomer SR 495, Sartomer, Exton, PA) 0.80 g Polyethylene glycol diallyl ether (from BASF, Ludwigs- harbor / Rh.) 1.20 g Dipentaerythritol pentaacrylate (Sartomer SR 399 Fa. Sartomer, Exton, PA) 0.30 g Perfume 0.10 g Dimethylsiloxane / ethylene glycol copolymer (Belsil DMC 6032, Wacker, Burghausen) 0.1 g tert-butyl hydroperoxide (in the form of the 70% aqueous solution, Trigonox A-W70, Akzo Nobel Chemicals, Amersfoort, NL) 0.05 g Manganese (II) acetate 11.53 g water 85.28 g Ethanol

Example 15 Firming hair styling gel

1.53 g inorganic-organic hybrid prepolysiloxane Mercaptopropyltriethoxysilane and hydrochloric acid (after DE 19822722, system 9) 2.50 g Polyvinyl pyrrolidone 2.10 g Hydroxypropyl guar 0.80 g Hydrogenated castor oil, oxyhydrogenated with 45 moles of ethylene oxide 0.45 g Sodium benzoate 0.30 g Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.20 g Perfume 0.09 g Sodium formate 0.05 g Mica / titanium oxide / tin oxide powder (Soloron® Silver Sparkle from Merck, Germany) 91.98 g water

Examples 16 Hair cocktails

Phase A 3.00% by weight Luvigel EM ™ (BASF) 2.00% by weight Belsil DM 1000 ™ (Wacker) 3.00% by weight Belsil CM 1000 ™ (Wacker) 2.00% by weight Belsil PDM 200 ™ (Wacker) 2.00% by weight Belsil ADM 6057 E ™ (Wacker) 0.50% by weight Belsil DMC 6031 ™ (Wacker) 1.00% by weight Macadamia nut oil (e.g. Huile de Macadamio from Wacker) 0.50% by weight Vitamin E Acetats ™ (BASF) 1.00% by weight Cremophor RH 40 ™ (BASF) 0.40% by weight Perfume oil Phase B 4.00% by weight Polymer according to example 14 0.46% by weight 2-amino-2-methylpropanol 0.10% by weight Euxyl K 100 ™ (Schulke & Mayr) demineralized to 100.00 water

Example 17 Hair repair

6.00% Luviflex Silk ™ (BASF) 0.69% 2-amino-2-methylpropanol 0.20% Hydrolized Wheat Protein (e.g. Cropesol W ™ from Croda, Inc.) 0.50% D-Panthenol USP ™ (BASF) 5.00% 1,2-Propylene GlycolUSP ™ (BASF) 10.00% Ethanol. 77.61% Demineralized water

Example 18 Skin cream

According to the following recipe, a water / oil cream emulsion (skin cream A) was first prepared: additive % By weight Cremophor A 6 Ceteareth-6 and stearyl alcohol 2.0 Chremophore A 25 Ceteareth-25 2.0 Lanette O Cetearyl alcohol 2.0 Imwitor 960 K. Glyceryl stearate SE 3.0 Paraffin oil 5.0 Jojoba oil 4.0 Luvitol EHO Cetearyl octanoate 3.0 ABIL 350 Dimethicone 1.0 Amerchol L 101 Mineral oil and lanolin alcohol 3.0 Veegum Ultra Magnesium aluminum silicate 0.5 1,2-propylene glycol Propylene glycol 5.0 Abiol Imidazolinedinyl urea 0.3 Phenoxyethanol 0.5 D-panthenol USP 1.0 Polymer (Luviskol VA 63, BASF)) 0.5 water ad 100

Example 19 shower gel

According to the following recipe, a shower gel formulation according to the invention (shower gel A) was first produced: additive % By weight Texapon NSO Sodium laureth sulfate 40.0 Tego Betain L7 Cocamidopropyl betaine 5.0 Plantacare 2000 Decylglucoside 5.0 Perfume 0.2 Polymer according to example 15 0.2 Euxyl K 100 Benzyl alcohol, methylchlorisothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone 0.1 D-panthenol USP 0.5 Citric acid (pH 6-7) qs NaCl 2.0 water ad 100

Example 20 Moisturizing formulation Formulation A

additive % By weight a) Cremophor A6 Ceteareth-6 and stearyl alcohol 2.0 Cremophor A25 Ceteareth-25 2.0 Paraffin oil (viscous) 10.0 Lannette O Cetearyl alcohol 2.0 Stearic acid 3.0 Nip-nip Methyl paraben / propyl paraben 70:30 0.5 Abiol Imidazoldinyl urea 0.5 b) Polymer (Hypermer B 246, ICI)) 3.0 water ad 100

Both phases were heated to 80 ° C., phase a) was stirred into b), homogenized and stirred cold and then with 10% aqueous NaOH solution adjusted to pH 6.

Example 21 O / W skin moisturizing cream

additive % By weight Glycerol monostearate 2.0 Cetyl alcohol 3.0 Paraffin oil, subliquidum 15.0 vaseline 3.0 Caprylic capric acid triglyceride 4.0 Octyldodecanol 2.0 Hydrogenated coconut fat 2.0 Cetyl phosphate 0.4 Polymer (Example 18) 3.0 Glycerin 3.0 Sodium hydroxide q.s. Perfume oil q.s. Preservative q.s. water ad 100

Example 22 O / W lotion

additive % By weight Stearic acid 1.5 Sorbitan monostearate 1.0 Sorbitan monooleate 1.0 Paraffin oil, subliquidum 7.0 Cetyl alcohol 1.0 Polydimethylsiloxane 1.5 Glycerin 3.0 Polymer (Example 20) 0.5 Perfume oil q.s. Preservative q.s. water ad 100

Example 23 W / O cream

additive % By weight PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil 4.0 Wool wax alcohol 1.5 Beeswax 3.0 Triglyceride, liquid 5.0 vaseline 9.0 Ozokerite 4.0 Paraffin oil, subliquidum 4.0 Glycerin 2.0 Polymer (Example 20) 2.0 Magnesium sulfate ^* 7H ₂ O 0.7 Perfume oil q.s. Preservative q.s. water ad 100

Example 24 Hydrogel for skin care

additive % By weight Polymer (Production Example 19) 3.0 Sorbitol 2.0 Glycerin 3.0 Polyethylene glycol 400 5.0 Ethanol 1.0 Perfume oil q.s. Preservative q.s. water ad 100

Example 25 Hydrodispersion gel

additive % By weight Polymer (Production Example 19) 3.0 Sorbitol 2.0 Glycerin 3.0 Polyethylene glycol 400 5.0 Triglyceride, liquid 2.0 Ethanol 1.0 Perfume oil q.s. Preservative q.s. water ad 100

Example 26 Liquid soap

additive % By weight Coconut fatty acid, potassium salt 15 Potassium oleate 3rd Glycerin 5 Polymer (Production Example 14) 2nd Glycerol stearate 1 Ethylene glycol distearate 2nd Specific additives, complexing agents, fragrances q.s. water ad 100

Example 27 Body Care Cream

additive % By weight Cremophor A6 Ceteareth-6 and stearyl alcohol 2.0% Cremophor A 25 Ceteareth-25 2.0% Grape (Vitis Vinifera) Seed oil 6.0% Glyceryl stearate SE 3.0% Cetearyl alcohol 2.0% Dimethicone 0.5% Luvitol EHO Cetearyl octanoate 8.0% Oxynex 2004 Propylene glycol, BHT, ascorbyl palmitate, glyceryl stearate, citric acid 0.1% Preservative q.s. 1,2-propylene glycol USP 3.0% Glycerin 2.0% EDTA BD 0.1% D-panthenol USP 1.0% water ad 100 Polymer (Example 20) 1.5% Tocopheryl acetate 0.5%

The formulation had a pH of 6.8. The viscosity (Brookfield RVT, 23 ° C) was 32,000 mPas.

Example 28 Mascara (mascara)

Phase A 1.50% Cremophor A6 ™ (BASF) 1.50% Cremophor A25 ™ (BASF) 2.00% Stearic acid (e.g. Emersol 120 ™ from Kenkel) 3.00% Imwitor 960 K ™ (Hüls AG) 3.00% Softisan 100 ™ (Huls AG) 1.50% Luvigel EM ™ (BASF) 10.00% Dow Corning 345 ™ (Dow Corning) Phase B 4.00% Luviflex Silk ™ (BASF) 0.46% 2-amino-2-methylpropanol 0.30% Germal 115 ™ (Sutton) 72.24% Demineralized water Phase C 0.50% Phenoxyethanol (e.g. Phenoxetol ™ from Nipa-Hardwicke)

Example 29 Make up

A 2.0 Cremophor A 6 (1) Ceteareth-6, stearyl alcohol 2.0 Cremophor A 25 (1) Ceteareth-25 4.0 Cetylstearyl alcohol Cetearyl alcohol 6.0 Luvitol EHO (1) Cetearyl octanoate B 4.0 1,2-propylene glycol USP (1) Propylene glycol 2.0 D-Panthenol 50 P. (1) Panthenol, propylene glycol 0.5 Drug concentration polymer q.s. Neutralizing agent (if necessary) q.s. Preservative ad 100 Water the. C. q.s. Vitamins q.s. Perfume oil

Manufacturing

Heat phases A and B separately to approx. 80 ° C, phase A in Stir in phase B and homogenize. With stirring to approx. 40 ° C cool, work in phase C and homogenize again.

Example 30 Sunscreen emulsion

1.00 Cremophor A 6 (1) Ceteareth-6, stearyl alcohol 2.00 Cremophor A 25 (1) Ceteareth-25 3.00 Glycerol monostearate (44) Glyceryl stearate 2.00 Cetylstearyl alcohol (27) Cetearyl alcohol 2.00 Luvitol EHO (1) Cetearyl octanoate 1.00 Uvinul T 150 (1) Octyl triazone 5.00 Uvinul MC 80 (1) Octyl methoxycinnamate 3.00 Uvinul MBC 95 (1) 4-methylbenzylidenes camphor 5.00 Z-Cote (1) Zinc Oxide 7:00 Isopropyl myristate (27) Isopropyl myristate B 0.20 Edeta BD (1) EDTA 0.50 D-panthenol USP (1) Panthenol 5.00 1,2-propylene glycol USP (1) Propylene glycol 7.50 Luviquat Care (1) Polyquaternium-44 q.s. Preservative 54.50 Water the. Aqua dem. C. 0.30 Keltrol T (66) Xanthan gum D 1.00 Vitamin E acetate (1) Tocopheryl Acetate q.s. Perfume oil Suppliers (1) BASF Aktiengesellschaft (27) Cognis Germany GmbH (44) Goldschmidt AG (66) Kelco International GmbH

Claims (32)

Process for the treatment of a cosmetic agent, thereby characterized in that the cosmetic agent before, during or is treated with NIR radiation after application. A method according to claim 1, characterized in that the Emission maximum of NIR radiation in the wavelength range from 600 to 1500 nm. Method according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that that the cosmetic agent for treating the skin, the hair and / or the nails is used. Method according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that that the cosmetic agent film-forming or has permeation-inhibiting properties. Method according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that that the cosmetic agent has at least one polymer contains. Method according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that that by the effect of NIR radiation at least a polymer is formed and / or the molecular weight at least one polymer is increased and / or the properties of the polymer can be changed. Method according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that that the polymer is a poly (meth) acrylate, polyamide, Polyester, polyether, polyurethane, poly-N-vinyl lactam, polyolefin, Containing polyvinyl ester, polysiloxane or a copolymer Repeating units of the aforementioned polymers. Method according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that that the polymer has at least one repeat unit which consists of compounds of the group methyl methacrylate, tert-butyl acrylate, 2-butyl methacrylate, styrene, N-tert-butylacrylamide, vinyl acetate, vinyl propionate, vinyl caprolactam, Vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl imidazole and N-methyl vinyl imidazolinium salt, Ethyl acrylate, methyl acrylate, Hydroxyethyl acrylate, n-butyl acrylate, lauryl (meth) acrylate, Stearyl (meth) acrylate, vinyl neodecanoate, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, Crotonic acid emerges. Method according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that that the polymer is a polyelectrolyte. Method according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that that the polymer by polymerization, polyaddition or polycondensation or a combination of these methods is formed. Method according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that that the intensity of the radiation on the purpose of Treatment can be tailored. Method according to one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that that the radiation from multiple radiation sources is generated, the type and intensity of the radiation sources can be the same or different. Method according to one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that that the radiation sources are equidistant from the head are positioned. Method according to one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that that the radiation sources are equidistant from each other are positioned. Cosmetic product obtainable by irradiation with NIR radiation. Cosmetic composition according to claim 15, characterized in that the cosmetic agent at least one ethylenically unsaturated compound that is both low molecular weight as can be high molecular weight contains. Cosmetic composition according to claim 15 or 16, characterized characterized in that the emission maximum of the NIR radiation is in the wavelength range from 600 to 1500 nm. Cosmetic agent according to any one of claims 15 to 17, characterized characterized in that under the influence of NIR radiation at least one polymer is formed. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 15 to 18, characterized characterized in that the cosmetic agent at least an initiator, dye or catalyst that has the effect which enables, accelerates or amplifies radiation. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 15 to 19, characterized characterized in that the cosmetic agent at least contains an initiator for radical polymerizations. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 15 to 20, characterized characterized in that the cosmetic agent at least an inorganic compound with an O-O bond, and optionally contains reducing agents. Cosmetic agent according to one of claims 15 to 21, characterized characterized in that the cosmetic agent at least contains a low or high molecular weight compound that at least one and preferably two to eight functionalities from the group -OH, -NHR, -COOR, -C (H) = O, epoxy, -NCO, where R is hydrogen or any organic Rest is. Cosmetic agent according to one of claims 15 to 22, characterized in that the cosmetic agent compounds selected from the group (meth) acrylate functional (Meth) acrylic copolymers, polyether (meth) acrylates, polyester (meth) acrylates, unsaturated polyesters, epoxy (meth) acrylates, Urethane (meth) acrylates, amino (meth) acrylates, melamine (meth) acrylates, Contains silicone (meth) acrylates in addition to conventional additives. Cosmetic agent according to one of claims 15 to 23, containing, in addition to conventional additives, another anionic, cationic, neutral or betaine polymer, a biopolymer or a prepolymer. Use of a cosmetic agent, according to one of the Claims 15 to 24 for the treatment of the skin, the hair or the nails. Use of the cosmetic agent according to claim 25, for the treatment of hair. Use of the cosmetic agent according to one of the Claims 25 or 26, characterized in that the cosmetic agent is selected from the group of permanent wave preparations, of hair treatments, hair lotions, hair rinses, Hair emulsions, top fluids, leveling agents for perms, Hot oil treatment preparations, conditioners, setting lotions, Shampoos, hair dyes, hair sprays, foaming agents, Hair mousse, hair gel, agent for the treatment of Dandruff and hair loss and hair restorer. Use of the cosmetic agent according to claim 25 for Treatment of the nails. Use of the cosmetic agent according to claim 28, characterized in that the agent for the treatment of Nails is selected from the group of nail care products as well as the nail polishes. Use of the cosmetic agent according to claim 25, characterized in that the agent is selected from the cosmetic products for the treatment of the skin and the Wound treatment. Use of the cosmetic agent according to claim 30, characterized in that the agent for the treatment of Skin is selected from the group of W / O or O / W skin creams, Day and night creams, eye creams, face creams, Anti-wrinkle creams, moisturizing creams, bleaching creams, vitamin creams, Skin cleansers, baby care products and decorative cosmetics. Use of the cosmetic agent according to one of the Claims 25 to 31, characterized in that according to Irradiation with NIR radiation a glass temperature of The result is greater than 20 ° C.