EP1105092A1

EP1105092A1 - Cosmetic compositions for topical application

Info

Publication number: EP1105092A1
Application number: EP99942247A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Michael David Bell; Nigel Weston
Original assignee: Procter and Gamble Co
Current assignee: Procter and Gamble Co
Priority date: 1998-08-19
Filing date: 1999-08-17
Publication date: 2001-06-13
Also published as: JP2002523348A; AU5567099A; WO2000010523A1; CN1313752A; GB9818123D0

Abstract

A cosmetic composition suitable for topical application to the skin comprising: (a) a polyol carboxylic acid ester having a polyol moiety and at least 4 carboxylic acid moieties, wherein the polyol moiety is selected from sugars and sugar alcohols containing from about 4 to about 8 hydroxyl groups, and wherein each carboxylic acid moiety has from about 2 to about 30 carbon atoms, and; (b) an emollient material selected from compounds having formula (I) wherein R1 is a C¿2?-C13 straight or branched chain alkyl and R?2¿ is independently selected from a C¿1?-C20 straight chain or branched chain alkyl, and; (c) a non-ionic thickening agent selected from polyacrylamide polymers, cross-linked poly(N-vinylpyrrolidones), and mixtures thereof. The compositions of the invention provide improved rheological, absorption and insulation properties in addition to good skin feel, skin softness and skin smoothness benefits.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS FOR TOPICAL APPLICATIONS

Technical Field

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions. In particular it relates to cosmetic compositions with improved in-use rub-in and absorption characteristics, as well as excellent moisturisation, skin feel, skin softness, and skin smoothness benefits. The compositions also display excellent stability characteristics at normal and elevated temperatures.

Background of the Invention

Skin is made up of several layers of cells which coat and protect the keratin and collagen fibrous proteins that form the skeleton of its structure. The outermost of these layers, referred to as the stratum corneum, is known to be composed of 25nm protein bundles surrounded by 8nm thick layers. Anionic surfactants and organic solvents typically penetrate the stratum corneum membrane and, by delipidization (i.e. removal of the lipids from the stratum corneum), destroy its integrity. This destruction of the skin surface topography leads to a rough feel and may eventually permit the surfactant or solvent to interact with the keratin, creating irritation.

It is now recognised that maintaining the proper water gradient across the stratum corneum is important to its functionality. Most of this water, which is sometimes considered to be the stratum corneum's plasticizer, comes from inside the body. If the humidity is too low, such as in a cold climate, insufficient water remains in the outer layers of the stratum corneum to properly plasticize the tissue, and the skin begins to scale and becomes itchy. Skin permeability is also decreased somewhat when there is inadequate water across the stratum corneum. On the other hand, too much water on the outside of the skin causes the stratum corneum to ultimately sorb three to five times its own weight of bound water. This swells and puckers the skin and results in approximately a two to three fold increase in the permeability of the skin to water and other polar molecules.

Thus, a need exists for compositions which will assist the stratum corneum in maintaining its barrier and water-retention functions at optimum performance in spite of deleterious interactions which the skin may encounter in washing, work, and recreation.

Many cosmetic cream and lotion compositions are known to provide varying degrees of emolliency, barrier and water-retention (moisturising) benefits. They can, however, also suffer negatives in terms of skin feel and having poor rub-in and slow absorption into the skin. The skin feel of a composition, perceived by the consumer as skin softness or skin smoothness, is related to the emollients of a composition which form a film or layer upon application to the skin. Some cosmetic cream and lotion compositions have the desired skin feel, absorption and rub-in characteristics, but their water retention properties are poor. Desirable properties of cosmetic cream and lotion compositions are therefore good skin feel, water retention, absorption, rub-in and pick up (the term "pick up" is known to those skilled in the art as the ease with which product is removed from the jar) characteristics. The absorption, rub-in and pick-up characteristics of a composition relate to its physical behaviour under mechanical stress which is affected by the rheological profile of the composition.

Thus, there remains a need for compositions which show improved absorption, and excellent moisturisation, as well as skin feel, skin softness and skin smoothness benefits.

Polyol fatty acid polyester compounds are known for use in skin care compositions. For example, EP-A-458600, EP-A-466410, EP-A-519727 and EP-A-587288 disclose compositions containing polyol fatty acid polyester compounds for use in skin care compositions.

Compounds such as isopropyl isostearate, glycerol monostearate and isopropyl myristate are known for use in skin care compositions for providing emollient properties.

In addition, WO98/22085 discloses liquid polyol fatty acid polyester compounds in combination with ester emollients for use in skin care compositions. The compositions disclosed comprise liquid polyester compounds, ester emollients and acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymers and/or carboxyvinyl polymer thickening agents sold under the trade mark of Carbopol resins.

It has now been found that by incorporating polyol fatty acid polyester materials into a cosmetic emulsion composition together with a particular emollient compound and specific non-ionic thickening agents, a composition is provided which provides improved absorption, insulation and water retention properties, in addition to good skin feel, skin softness and skin smoothness benefits. The compositions herein also providing excellent moisturisation.

Summary of the Invention

According to one aspect of the present invention there is provided a cosmetic composition suitable for topical application to the skin comprising: (a) a polyol carboxyhc acid ester having a polyol moiety and at least 4 carboxyhc acid moieties, wherein the polyol moiety is selected from sugars and sugar alcohols containing from about 4 to about 8 hydroxyl groups, and wherein each carboxyhc acid moiety has from about 2 to about 30 carbon atoms, and;

(b) an emollient material selected from compounds having the formula:

wherein R.1 is a C2-C13 straight or branched chain alkyl and R.2 is independently selected from a C1-C20 straight chain or branched chain alkyl, and;

(c) non-ionic thickening agents selected from polyacrylamide polymers, crosslinked poly(N-vinylpyrrolidones), and mixtures thereof.

The compositions of the invention provide improved rheological, absorption and insulation properties in addition to good skin feel, skin softness and skin smoothness benefits.

According to a further aspect of the present invention there is provided a cosmetic method of treatment of the skin comprising applying to the skin a composition according to the present invention.

Detailed Description of the Invention

The compositions of the present invention comprise a polyol carboxyhc acid ester component together with an essential emollient component and specific non-ionic thickening agents, as well as various optional ingredients as indicated below. All levels and ratios are by weight of total composition, unless otherwise indicated. Chain length and degrees of ethoxylation are also specified on a weight average basis.

The term "skin conditioning agent", as used herein means a material which is capable of providing a cosmetic conditioning benefit to the skin such as moisturization, humectancy (i.e. the ability to retain or hold water or moisture in the skin), emolliency, visual improvement of the skin surface, soothing of the skin, softening of the skin, and improvement in skin feel. The term "complete melting point", as used herein means a melting point as measured by the well-known technique of Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC). The complete melting point is the temperature at the intersection of the baseline, i.e. the specific heat line, with the line tangent to the trailing edge of the endothermic peak. A scanning temperature of 5°C/minute is generally suitable in the present invention for measuring the complete melting points. However, it should be recognised that more frequent scanning rates may be deemed appropriate by the analytical chemist skilled in the art in specific circumstances. A DSC technique for measuring complete melting points is also described in US Patent No. 5,306,514, to Letton et al., issued, April 26, 1994, incorporated herein by reference.

The term "non-occlusive" as used herein, means that the component as so described does not substantially or block the passage of air and moisture through the skin surface.

The present compositions can be used for any suitable purpose. In particular, the present compositions are suitable for topical application to the skin. In particular, the skin care compositions can be in the form of creams, lotions, gels, and the like. Preferably the cosmetic compositions herein are in the form of an emulsion of one or more oil phases in an aqueous continuous phase.

Polyol carboxyhc acid ester

As an essential component, the compositions herein comprise a polyol carboxyhc acid ester.

The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise from about 0.01% to about 20%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 15%, and especially from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of the polyol ester. The level of polyol ester by weight of the oil in the composition is preferably from about 1% to about 30%, more preferably from about 5% to about 20%. From the viewpoint of providing improved skin softness and smoothness benefits, the weight ratio of the carboxyhc acid polyol ester to the emollient material is preferably in the range of from about 5:1 to about 1 :5, more preferably in the range of from 2:1 to about 1:2.

These polyol esters are derived from a polyol radical or moiety and one or more carboxyhc acid radicals or moieties. In other words, these esters contain a moiety derived from a polyol and one or more moieties derived from a carboxyhc acid. The esters can also be described as polyol fatty acid esters, because the terms carboxyhc acid and fatty acid are often used interchangeably by those skilled in the art. The polyol esters of the present invention may be a liquid, or a mixture of a liquid and a solid wherein the solid is utilised to thicken the liquid polyol ester. Preferably, the polyol esters of the present invention comprise nonocclusive liquid or liquifiable polyol carboxyhc acid esters with complete melting points below about 30°C, preferably below about 27.5°C, and more preferably below about 25°C. Complete melting points reported herein are measured by Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC).

The preferred polyol polyesters employed in this invention are derived from certain polyols, especially sugars or sugar alcohols, containing from about 4 to about 8 hydroxyl groups. Examples of preferred polyols are sugars, including monosaccharides and disaccharides, and sugar alcohols. Examples of monosaccharides containing four hydroxyl groups are xylose and arabinose and the sugar alcohol derived from xylose, which has five hydroxyl groups, i.e., xylitol. The monosaccharide, erythrose, is not suitable in the practice of this invention since it only contains three hydroxyl groups, but the sugar alcohol derived from erythrose, i.e., erythritol, contains four hydroxyl groups and accordingly can be used. Suitable five hydroxyl group-containing monosaccharides are galactose, fructose, and sorbose. Sugar alcohols containing six -OH groups derived from the hydrolysis products of sucrose, as well as glucose and sorbose, e.g., sorbitol, are also suitable. Examples of disaccharide polyols which can be used include maltose, lactose, and sucrose, all of which contain eight hydroxyl groups. Preferred polyols for preparing the polyesters for use in the present invention are selected from the group consisting of erythritol, xylitol, sorbitol, glucose, and sucrose. Sucrose is especially preferred.

The polyol starting material having at least four hydroxyl groups is esterified on at least four of the -OH groups with carboxyhc acid moieties. The carboxyhc acid moieties contain from about 2 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 6 to about 24 carbon atoms.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the polyol ester is a liquid, wherein at least four hydroxyl groups are esterified with carboxyhc acid moieties containing from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms. Examples of such fatty acids include caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, myristoleic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, oleic, ricinoleic, linoleic, linolenic, eleostearic, arachidic, arachidonic, behenic, and erucic acid. The fatty acids can be derived from naturally occurring or synthetic fatty acids; they can be saturated or unsaturated, including positional and geometrical isomers. In order to provide liquid polyesters preferred for use herein, at least about 50% by weight of the fatty acid incorporated into the polyester molecule should be unsaturated. Highly preferred liquid polyol fatty acid esters are therefore those wherein the fatty acids contain from about 14 to about 18 carbon atoms. Oleic and linoleic acids, and mixtures thereof, are especially preferred.

The liquid polyol fatty acid polyesters useful in this invention preferably contain at least four fatty acid ester groups. It is not necessary that all of the hydroxyl groups of the liquid polyol be esterified with fatty acid, but it is preferable that the polyester contain no more than two unesterified hydroxyl groups. Most preferably, substantially all of the hydroxyl groups of the polyol are esterified with fatty acid, i.e., the polyol moiety is substantially completely esterified. The fatty acids esterified to the polyol molecule can be the same or mixed, but as noted above, a substantial amount of the unsaturated acid ester groups must be present to provide liquidity.

To illustrate the above points, a sucrose fatty triester would not be preferred for use as a liquid polyol fatty acid polyester herein because it does not contain four fatty acid ester groups. A sucrose tetra-fatty acid ester would be suitable, but is not preferred because it has more than two unesterified hydroxyl groups. A sucrose hexa-fatty acid ester would be preferred because it has no more than two unesterified hydroxyl groups. Highly preferred compounds in which all the hydroxyl groups are esterified with fatty acids include the liquid sucrose octa-substituted fatty acid esters.

The following are non-limiting examples of specific liquid polyol fatty acid polyesters containing at least four fatty acid ester groups suitable for use in the preferred embodiment of the present invention: glucose tetraoleate, the glucose tetraesters of soybean oil fatty acids (unsaturated), the mannose tetraesters of mixed soybean oil fatty acids, the galactose tetraesters of oleic acid, the arabinose tetraesters of linoleic acid, xylose tetralinoleate, galactose pentaoleate, sorbitol tetraoleate, the sorbitol hexaesters of unsaturated soybean oil fatty acids, xylitol pentaoleate, sucrose tetraoleate, sucrose pentaoletate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose hepatoleate, sucrose octaoleate, and mixtures thereof.

The liquid polyol fatty acid polyesters suitable for use herein can be prepared by a variety of methods well known to those skilled in the art. Examples of such methods are described in WO98/22085, incorporated by reference herein in its entirety.

In a further embodiment of the present invention, solid polyol carboxyhc acid esters are utilized to thicken the liquid polyol carboxyhc acid esters described above.

The solid polyol carboxyhc acid ester thickening agents have complete melting points above about 30°C, preferably above about 40°C, more preferably above about 50°C, and most preferably above about 60°C. Complete melting points reported herein are measured by Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC). These solid esters have the ability to trap relatively large amounts of liquids within their crystal structure.

When compositions described herein comprise a blend of liquid polyol polyesters and solid polyol polyesters, the polyol carboxyhc acid ester component is typically prepared by simply mixing the two materials together, generally at a temperature above the melting point of the solid polyol esters. In the aforementioned compositions, in general, the solid polyol carboxyhc acid ester comprises from about 0.01% to about 50%, more preferably from about 1% to about 25%, and most preferably from about 2% to about 20% by weight of the polyol carboxyhc acid ester component. Consequently, the liquid polyol carboxyhc acid ester comprises from about 50% to about 99.99%, preferably from about 75% to about 99%, and more preferably from about 80% to about 98% by weight of the polyol carboxyhc acid ester component. An especially useful mixture for the polyol carboxyhc acid ester component is one comprising about 82.3% of the liquid polyol and about 17.7% of the solid polyol, by weight based on the total weight of the polyol carboxyhc acid ester component.

Preferred solid polyol carboxyhc acid polyester thickeners are polyol esters or polyesters wherein the carboxyhc acid ester groups of the polyester comprise a combination of: (a) long chain, unsaturated carboxyhc acid moieties or a mixture of long chain unsaturated carboxyhc acid moieties and short chain saturated carboxyhc acid moieties, and (b) long chain saturated carboxyhc acid moieties, the ratio of (a) to (b) being from about 1 to 15 to about 2 to 1, and wherein at least about 15%, preferably at least about 30%, more preferably at least about 50%, and most preferably at least about 60% by weight of the total carboxyhc acid moieties in the solid polyol polyester are C20 or higher saturated carboxyhc acid moieties. The long chain unsaturated carboxyhc acid moieties are typically straight chain and contain at least about 12, preferably about 12 to about 26, more preferably about 18 to about 22 carbon atoms. The most preferred unsaturated carboxyhc acids are the C18 mono and/or diunsaturated carboxyhc acids. The short chain saturated carboxyhc acids are typically unbranched and contain about 2 to about 12, preferably about 6 to about 12, and most preferably about 8 to about 12 carbon atoms. The long chain saturated carboxyhc acids are typically straight chain and contain at least about 20, preferably about 20 to about 26, and most preferably about 22 carbon atoms. The preferred long chain saturated carboxyhc acid moiety is behenate The molar ratio of Group (a) carboxyhc acid moieties to Group (b) carboxyhc acid moieties in the solid polyol ester molecule is from about 1 :15 to about 2:1, preferably about 1 :7 to about 5:3, and more preferably about 1 :7 to about 3:5. The average degree of esterification of these solid polyol carboxyhc acid esters is such that at least about 2 of the hydroxyl groups of the polyol are esterified. In the case of sucrose polyesters from about 7 to about 8 of the hydroxyl groups of the polyol are preferably esterified. Typically, substantially all, e.g., at least about 85%, preferably at least about 95%, of the hydroxyl groups of the polyol are esterified.

Useful solid polyol carboxyhc acid ester compounds herein preferably contain from about 6 to about 8 hydroxyl groups.

Examples of other suitable polyols for the solid carboxyhc acid esters, other than those discussed above, are pentaerythritol, diglycerol, triglycerol, alkyl glycosides, and polyvinyl alcohols.

Examples of suitable long chain unsaturated and saturated, and short chain saturated carboxyhc acid moieties for the solid polyol carboxyhc acid esters herein are disclosed in WO96/16636, incorporated herein by reference.

Of course, the long chain unsaturated carboxyhc acid moieties can be used singly or in mixtures with each other or in mixtures with the short chain saturated carboxyhc acid moieties, in all proportions. Likewise, the long chain saturated carboxyhc acid moieties can be used in combination with each other in all proportions. Mixed carboxyhc acid moieties from source oils which contain substantial amounts of the desired unsaturated or saturated acids can be used as the acid moieties to prepare compounds of the present invention and are disclosed in WO96/16636.

Examples of solid polyol carboxyhc acid polyesters suitable herein are a sorbitol hexaester in which the carboxyhc acid ester moieties are palmitoleate and arachidate in a 1 :2 molar ratio; the octaester of raffinose in which the carboxyhc acid ester moieties are linoleate and behenate in a 1 :3 molar ratio; the heptaester of maltose wherein the esterifying carboxyhc acid moieties are sunflower seed oil fatty acids and lignocerate in a 3:4 molar ratio; the octaester of sucrose wherein the esterifying carboxyhc acid moieties are oleate and behenate in a 2:6 molar ratio; and the octaester of sucrose wherein the esterifying carboxyhc acid moieties are laurate, linoleate and behenate in a 1:3:4 molar ratio. A preferred material is sucrose polyester in which the degree of esterification is 7- 8, and in which the fatty acid moieties are C18 mono- and/or di-unsaturated and behenic, in a molar ratio of unsaturates:behenic of 1 :7 to 3:5. A particularly preferred polyol ester thickening agent is the octaester of sucrose in which there are about 7 behenic fatty acid moieties and about 1 oleic acid moiety in the molecule.

Emollient materials A second essential component of the compositions herein is an emollient material selected from compounds having the formula:

wherein R is a C2-C13 straight or branched chain alkyl and R^ is independently selected from a Cj -C20 straight chain or branched chain alkyl.

Preferred for use herein are emollients wherein R\ is a Cg-C_j 1 straight or branched chain alkyl and R^ is independently selected from C3-C1 straight chain or branched chain alkyl.

Suitable emollients of the types indicated above include but are not limited to isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl octanoate, isodecyl isononanoate, tridecyl isononanoate, myristyl octanoate, octyl pelargonate, octyl isononanoate, myristyl myristate, myristyl neopentanoate, myristyl octanoate, myristyl propionate, isopropyl myristate and mixtures thereof.

Prefered emollients are isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl octanoate, isodecyl isononanoate, tridecyl isononanoate, myristyl octanoate, octyl isononanoate, myristyl myristate and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred for use herein in particularly from the viewpoint of achieving skin softness and smoothness is isononyl isononanoate.

The emollient material is present in the compositions herein at a level of from about 0.1% to about 15%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, especially from about 0.1% to about 5% by weight of composition.

A third essential component of the present compositions herein is a non-ionic thickening agent selected from polyacrylamide polymers, crosslinked poly(N-vinylpyrrolidones), and mixtures thereof. Preferred for use herein are polyacrylamide polymers.

In general, the non-ionic thickening agent is present at a level from about 0.5% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.75% to about 8% and most preferably from about 1% to about 5% by weight of the composition.

Polyacrylamide Polymers The non-ionic polyacrylamide polymers of the compositions of the present invention are substituted polyacrylamides, branched or unbranched. These polymers are non-ionic water dispersible polymers which can be formed from a variety of monomers including acrylamide and methacrylamide which are unsubstituted or substituted with one or two alkyl groups (preferably C,-C₅). Preferred are acrylate amides and methacrylate amides in which the amide nitrogen is unsubstituted, or substituted with one or two C,-C₅ alkyl groups (preferably: methyl, ethyl or propyl), for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide, N-methacrylamide, N-methylmethacrylamide, N,N-dimethylmethacrylamide and N,N-dimethylacrylamide. These monomers are generally disclosed in US Pat. No. 4,963,348 to Bolich, Jr. et al, issued Oct, 16., 1990, incorporated by reference herein. These copolymers may optionally be formed using conventional neutral crosslinking agents such as dialkenyl compounds. The use of such crosslinking agents for cationic polymers is disclosed in US Pat. No. 4,628,078 to Glover et al. issued Dec. 9, 1986 and US Pat. No. 4,599,379 to Flesher et al. issued Jul. 8, 1986 both of which are incorporated by reference herein. These non-ionic co-polymers have a molecular weight greater than about 1,000,000 preferably greater than about 1,500,000 and range up to about 30,000,000. Preferably as a result of being synthesised by reverse phase emulsion polymerisation, these non-ionic polyacrylamides are predispersed in a water-immiscible solvent such as mineral oil and the like, containing a high HLB surfactant (HLB from about 7 to about 10) which helps to facilitate water dispersibility of the polyacrylamide. Most preferred for use herein is the non-ionic polymer under the CTFA designation: polyacrylamide and isoparaffin and laureth-7, available under the trade name Sepigel 305 from Seppic Corporation.

Other polyacrylamide polymers useful herein include multi-block copolymers of acrylamides and substituted acrylamides with acrylic acids and substituted acrylic acids. Commercially available examples of these multi-block copolymers include Hypan SR150H, SS500V, SS500W, SSSA100H, from Lipo Chemicals, Inc., (Patterson, NJ).

Crosslinked polv(N-vinylpyrrolidones) Crosslinked polyvinyl(N-pyrrolidones) useful herein include those described in U.S. Patent No. 5,139,770, to Shih et al, issued August 18, 1992, and U.S. Patent No. 5,073,614, to Shih et al, issued December 17, 1991. These gelling agents typically contain from about 0.25% to about 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent selected from the group consisting of divinyl ethers and diallyl ethers of terminal diols containing from about 2 to about 12 carbon atoms, divinyl ethers and diallyl ethers of polyethylene glycols containing from about 2 to about 600 units, dienes having from about 6 to about 20 carbon atoms, divinyl benzene, vinyl and allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, and the like. Typically, these gelling agents have a viscosity from about 25,000 mPa.s (cps) to about 40,000 mPa.s (cps) when measured as a 5% aqueous solution at 25°C using a Brookfield RVT viscometer with Spindle #6 at 10 rpm. Commercially available examples of these polymers include ACP-1120, ACP-1179, and ACP-1180, available from International Speciality Products (Wayne, NJ). Oil Phase

Preferably the cosmetic compositions herein are in the form of an emulsion of one or more oil phases in an aqueous continuous phase, each oil phase comprises a single oily component or a mixture of oily components in miscible or homogeneous form. Different oil phases contain different materials or combinations of materials from each other. The total level of oil phase components in the compositions of the invention is typically from about 0.1% to about 60%, preferably from about 1% to about 30%, more preferably from about 1% to about 10% and most preferably from 1.3% to 8%.

At least one of the oil phases of the compositions herein comprises the polyol carboxyhc acid ester and/or emollient material hereinbefore described. The compositions preferably comprise at least one silicone oil phase. In a preferred embodiment, further oily components are added to the compositions herein to form another oil phase.

The present compositions preferably comprise, at least one, preferably just one, silicone oil phase. Silicone oil phase(s) generally comprises from about 0.1% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 5%, of the composition. The, or each, silicone oil phase preferably comprises one or more silicone components.

Silicone components can be fluids, including straight chain, branched and cyclic silicones. Suitable silicone fluids useful herein include silicones inclusive of polyalkyl siloxane fluids, polyaryl siloxane fluids, cyclic and linear polyalkylsiloxanes, poly- alkoxylated silicones, amino and quaternary ammonium modified silicones, poly- alkylaryl siloxanes or a polyether siloxane copolymer and mixtures thereof. The silicone fluids can be volatile or non-volatile. Silicone fluids generally have a weight average molecular weight of less than about 200,000. Suitable silicone fluids have a molecular weight of about 100,000 or less, preferably about 50,000 or less, most preferably about 10,000 or less. Preferably the silicone fluid is selected from silicone fluids having a weight average molecular weight in the range from about 100 to about 50,000 and preferably from about 200 to about 40,000. Typically, silicone fluids have a viscosity ranging from about 0.65 to about 600,000 mrn^.s"', preferably from about 0.65 to about 10,000 mm^.s"! at 25°C. The viscosity can be measured by means of a glass capillary viscometer as set forth in Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM0004, July 29, 1970. Suitable polydimethyl siloxanes that can be used herein include those available, for example, from the General Electric Company as the SF and Viscasil (RTM) series and from Dow Corning as the Dow Corning 200 series. Also useful are essentially nonvolatile polyalkylarylsiloxanes, for example, polymethylphenylsiloxanes, having viscosities of about 0.65 to 30,000 mm^.s'l at 25°C. These siloxanes are available, for example, from the General Electric Company as SF 1075 methyl phenyl fluid or from

Dow Corning as 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid. Cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes suitable for use herein are those having a ring structure incorporating from about 3 to about 7 (CH3)2SiO moieties.

In preferred embodiments, the silicone fluid is selected from dimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, phenyl methicone, and mixtures thereof.

Silicone gums can also be used herein. The term "silicone gum" herein means high molecular weight silicones having a weight average molecular weight in excess of about 200,000 and preferably from about 200,000 to about 4,000,000. Iincluded are nonvolatile polyalkyl and polyaryl siloxane gums. In preferred embodiments, a silicone oil phase comprises a silicone gum or a mixture of silicones including the silicone gum. Typically, silicone gums have a viscosity at 25°C in excess of about 1,000,000 mmV . The silicone gums include dimethicones as described by Petrarch and others including US-A-4, 152,416, May 1, 1979 to Spitzer, et al, and Noll, Walter, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones, New York: Academic Press 1968. Also describing silicone gums are General Electric Silicone Rubber Product Data Sheets SE 30, SE 33, SE 54 and SE 76. Specific examples of silicone gums include polydimethylsiloxane, (polydimethylsiloxane)(methylvinylsiloxane) copolymer, poly(dimethylsiloxane)- (diphenyl)(methylvinylsiloxane) copolymer and mixtures thereof. Preferred silicone gums for use herein are silicone gums having a molecular weight of from about 200,000 to about 4,000,000 selected from dimethiconol, and dimethicone and mixtures thereof.

A silicone phase herein preferably comprises a silicone gum incorporated into the composition as part of a silicone gum-fluid blend. When the silicone gum is incorporated as part of a silicone gum-fluid blend, the silicone gum preferably constitutes from about 5% to about 40%, especially from about 10% to 20% by weight of the silicone gum-fluid blend. Suitable silicone gum-fluid blends herein are mixtures consisting essentially of:

(i) a silicone having a molecular weight of from about 200,000 to about 4,000,000 selected from dimethiconol, fluorosilicone and dimethicone and mixtures thereof; and

(ii) a carrier which is a silicone fluid, the carrier having a viscosity from about 0.65 mm^.s'l to about 100 mm^.s"! wherein the ratio of i) to ii) is from about 10:90 to about 20:80 and wherein said silicone gum-based component has a final viscosity of from about 100 mm^.s"! to about 100,000 mm^.s'l, preferably from 500 mm^.s"! to about 10,000 mm^.s'l

An especially preferred silicone-gum fluid blend based component for use in the compositions herein is a dimethiconol gum having a molecular weight of from about 200,000 to about 4,000,000 along with a silicone fluid carrier with a viscosity of about 0.65 to 100 mm^.s^"'. An example of this silicone component is Dow Corning Q2-1403 (85% 5 ΠUT S-¹ Dimethicone Fluid/15% Dimethiconol) and Dow Corning Q2-1401 available from Dow Corning.

Further silicone components suitable for use in a silicone oil phase herein are crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymers, optionally dispersed in a fluid carrier. In general, when present the crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymers, together with its carrier (if present) comprises 0.1% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 5% of the composition. Such polymers comprise polyorganosiloxane polymers crosslinked by a crosslinking agent. Suitable crosslinking agents are disclosed in WO98/22085. Examples of suitable polyorganosiloxane polymers for use herein include methyl vinyl dimethicone, methyl vinyl diphenyl dimethicone and methyl vinyl phenyl methyl diphenyl dimethicone.

Specific commercially available crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymers for use herein are silicone vinyl crosspolymer mixtures available under the tradename KSG supplied by Shinetsu Chemical Co., Ltd, for example KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-17, KSG-18. These materials contain a combination of crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymer and silicone fluid. Particularly preferred for use herein especially in combination with the organic amphiphilic emulsifier material is KSG-18. The assigned INCI names for KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-17 and KSG-18 are cyclomethicone dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, dimethicone dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, cyclomethicone dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer and phenyl trimethicone dimethicone/phenyl vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, respectively.

Another class of silicone components suitable for use in a silicone oil phase herein includes polydiorganosiloxane-polyoxyalkylene copolymers containing at least one polydiorganosiloxane segment and at least one polyoxyalkylene segment. Suitable polydiorganosiloxane segments and copolymers thereof are disclosed in WO98/22085. Suitable polydiorganosiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers are available commercially under the tradenames Belsil (RTM) from Wacker-Chemie GmbH, Geschaftsbereich S, Postfach D-8000 Munich 22 and Abil (RTM) from Th. Goldschmidt Ltd., Tego House, Victoria Road, Ruislip, Middlesex, HA4 OYL, for example Belsil (RTM) 6031 and Abil (RTM) B88183. A particularly preferred copolymer fluid blend for use herein includes Dow Corning DC3225C which has the CTFA designation Dimethicone/Dimethicone copolyol.

In preferred embodiments, the oil phase preferably comprises additional oily components such as a natural or synthetic oils selected from mineral, vegetable, and animal oils, fats and waxes, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohols, fatty acids and mixtures thereof. These oily components are present in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 15%, more preferably from about 1% to about 10% by weight of composition. These components can form a single or separate phase with the silicone oil phase. Preferably, these components form a separate phase. Suitable for use herein are for example, beeswax, saturated and unsaturated fatty alcohols such as behenyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol, and hydrocarbons such as mineral oils. Further examples suitable for use herein are disclosed in WO98/22085. Preferred embodiments herein comprise from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of an unsaturated fatty acid or ester as described in WO98/22085.

Amphiphilic Surfactant

A further preferred component of the compositions herein is an organic amphiphilic surfactant which is capable of forming smectic lyotropic crystals in product or when the product is being applied to the skin at ambient or elevated temperatures. Preferably the amphiphilic surfactant is capable of forming liquid crystals at a temperature in the range from about 20°C to about 40°C. Once application of the product to the skin has been completed, liquid crystals may not be identifiable on the skin surface or stratum corneum. The amphiphilic surfactant is preferably present at a level of from about 0.1% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.1 % to about 10%, by weight.

The liquid-crystal forming amphiphilic surfactants suitable for use herein contain both hydrophihc and hpophihc groupings and exhibit a marked tendency to adsorb at a surface or interface, i.e. they are surface-active. Amphiphilic surface-active materials for use herein include nonionic (no charge), anionic (negative charge), cationic (positive charge) and amphoteric (both charges) based on whether or not they ionize in aqueous media.

In the literature, liquid crystals are also referred to as anisotropic fluids, a fourth state of matter, surfactant association structure or mesophases. Those terms are often used interchangeably. The term "lyotropic" means a liquid crystalline system containing a polar solvent, such as water. The liquid crystals used herein are preferably lamellar, hexagonal, rod or vesicle structures or mixtures thereof. The liquid crystalline phase utilized in the compositions of the invention can be identified in various ways. A liquid crystal phase flows under shear and is characterised by a viscosity that is significantly different from the viscosity of its isotropic solution phase. Rigid gels do not flow under shear like liquid crystals. Also, when viewed with a polarized light microscope, liquid crystals show identifiable birefringence, as, for example, planar lamellar birefringence, whereas when isotropic solutions and rigid gels are viewed under polarized light, both show dark fields.

Other suitable means for identifying liquid crystals include X-ray diffraction, NMR spectroscopy and transmission electron microscopy.

In general terms, the organic amphiphilic surfactant preferred for use herein can be described as a liquid, semi-solid or waxy water-dispersible material having the formula X-Y where X represents a hydrophihc, especially nonionic moiety and Y represents a hpophihc moiety.

Organic amphiphilic surfactants suitable for use herein include those having a weight average HLB (Hydrophihc Lipophilic Balance) in the range from about 2 to about 12, preferably from about 4 to about 8.

The hydrophihc and lipophilic properties of preferred organic amphiphilic surfactants employed herein are disclosed in WO98/22085, incorporated herein by reference.

Hydrophihc moieties suitable for use herein are selected from:

(1) ethers of linear, or branched, polyglycerol having the formula R-(Gly)_n-OH wherein n is a whole number between 1 and 6, R is selected from aliphatic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated chains of 12 to 30 carbon atoms, the hydrocarbon radicals of lanolin alcohols and the 2-hydroxy alkyl residue of long chain, alpha-diols, and Gly represents a glycerol residue;

(2) polyethoxylated fatty alcohols, for example those of the formula R¹(C2R4θ)_xOH wherein R! is C12-C30 linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl and x averages from about 0 to about 20, preferably from about 0.1 to about 6, more preferably from about 1 to about 4;

(3) polyol mono-, di-,or tri-esters, optionally polyalkoxylated, wherein the polyols are preferably selected from sugars, C2-C6 alkylene glycols, glycerol, polyglycerols, sorbitol, sorbitan, polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols and wherein the polyalkoxylated polyol esters contain from about 2 to about 20 preferably from about 2 to about 4 moles of alkylene oxide (especially ethylene oxide) per mole of polyol ester;

(4) natural and synthetic phosphoglycerides, glycolipids and sphingolipids, for example cerebrosides, ceramides and lecithin. As used herein, the term "lecithin" refers to a material which is a phosphatide. Suitable naturally occurring or synthetic phosphatides useful in the present invention are described in WO98/22085.

Examples of amphiphilic surfactants suitable for use herein are disclosed in WO98/22085 and include Cg-C3o alkyl and acyl-containing amphoteric, anionic, cationic and nonionic surfactants. Preferred organic amphiphilic surfactants for use herein are those having a hydrophihc moiety as in (3) above, and a lipophilic moiety selected from long saturated or unsaturated branched chain or linear lipophilic chains having from about 12 to about 30 carbon atoms such as oleic, lanolic, tetradecylic, hexadecylic, isostearylic, lauric, coconut, stearic or alkyl phenyl chains; especially preferred herein are sugar esters and polyalkoxylated sugar esters. The preparation of suitable sugar esters is described in WO98/22085.

Especially preferred are the mono-, di- and tri-acyl sugar esters and mixtures thereof wherein the acyl substituents contain from about 8 to about 24, preferably from about 8 to about 20 carbon atoms and 0,1 or 2 unsaturated moieties. Of the mono-acyl and di- acyl sugar esters, the respective esters of di-saccharide sugars, especially sucrose, wherein the acyl groups contain from about 8 to about 20 carbon atoms are especially preferred. Preferred sugar esters herein are sucrose cocoate, sucrose monooctanoate, sucrose monodecanoate, sucrose monolaurate, sucrose monomyristate, sucrose mono- palmitate, sucrose monostearate, sucrose monooleate, sucrose monolinoleate, sucrose dioleate, sucrose dipalmitate, sucrose distearate, sucrose dilaurate and sucrose di- linoleate, and mixtures thereof. Sucrose cocoate has been found to be particularly efficacious in the compositions herein. In mixtures of mono-acyl with di-, and tri- sugar esters, the mono- and di-acyl esters preferably comprise at least about 40%, more preferably from about 50% to about 95% by weight of the total sugar ester mixture.

Other sugar esters suitable for use in the compositions of this invention are the alkyl polyoxyalkylene sugar esters wherein one hydroxyl group is substituted with a Cg-Cjg alkyl group and wherein one or more of the hydroxyl groups on the sugar molecule are replaced by an ester or ether substituent containing the moiety [(CH2)_x-O]_v wherein x is an integer from 2 to about 4, preferably 2, and wherein y is an integer from about 1 to about 50, preferably 8 to 30 polyoxyalkylene substituents. Especially preferred herein are sugar esters wherein the polyoxyalkylene substituent is a polyoxyethylene substituent containing from about 8 to about 30 polyoxyethylene groups. Such materials wherein sorbitan is the sugar moiety are commercially available under the tradename "Tweens". Such mixed esters can be prepared by first acylating a sugar at a 1:1 mole ratio with a hydrocarbyl acid halide followed by reaction with the corresponding polyoxyalkylene acid halide or alkylene oxide to provide the desired material. The simple polyoxyalkylene ester of di-saccharides, especially sucrose, wherein the polyoxyalkylene groups contain up to about 20 alkylene oxide moieties are another useful class of sugar esters herein. A preferred sugar ester of this class is sorbitol trioleate ethoxylated with 20 moles of ethylene oxide. Mixtures of sugar esters with other polyol esters, eg. glycerol esters, are also suitable for use herein, for example, Palm Oil Sucroglyceride (Rhone- Poulenc).

Highly preferred herein is a fatty acid ester blend based on a mixture of sorbitan or sorbitol fatty acid ester and sucrose fatty acid ester, the fatty acid in each instance being preferably Cg-C24, more preferably Cιo~C20- The preferred fatty acid ester emulsifier from the viewpoint of moisturisation is a blend of sorbitan or sorbitol C1 -C20 fatty acid ester with sucrose C10-C16 fatty acid ester, especially sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate. This is commercially available from ICI under the trade name Arlatone 2121.

The organic amphiphilic surfactant has been found to be especially valuable herein for improving the stability and skin feel of the compositions of the invention. It is preferably incorporated into the composition at a level of from about 0.1 % to about 20% , preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, and more preferably from about 0.1% to about 8%.

An additional, highly preferred, ingredient of the compositions herein is urea which is preferably present in a level of from about 0.1% to about 20%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 10% and especially from about 1% to about 5% by weight of composition.

In preferred embodiments, the oil phase and organic amphiphilic surfactant when present are premixed in water at a temperature above the Kraft Point of the organic amphiphilic surfactant (but preferably below about 60°C) to form a liquid crystal/oil in water dispersion prior to addition of the urea. The urea is found to be especially effective herein in combination with the amphiphilic emulsifier surfactant and the polyol fatty acid polyester for providing outstanding skin moisturisation and softening in the context of an oil-in-water skin care emulsion composition. Moreover, it is surprisingly found that the urea is rendered more stable to hydrolytic degradation, thereby allowing an increase in composition pH.

A wide variety of optional ingredients such as non-occlusive moisturisers, humectants, gelling agents, neutralising agents, perfumes, colouring agents and surfactants, can be added to the skin compositions herein.

Suitable humectants for use herein include sorbitol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethoxylated glucose derivatives, hexanetriol, glycerine, glycine, hyaluronic acid, arginine, Ajidew (NaPCA), water-soluble polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricants and panthenols. A preferred humectant herein is glycerine (sometimes known as glycerol or glycerin). Also preferred for use herein is butylene glycol. Particularly preferred from the viewpoint of boosting moisturisation is a combination of glycerine and urea.

In the present compositions, the humectant is preferably present at a level of from about 0.1% to about 20%, more preferably from about 1% to about 15%, and especially from about 5% to about 15%.

Suitable polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricants for use in the compositions of this invention are available under the trademark Lubrajel (RTM) from Guardian Chemical Corporation, 230 Marcus Blvd., Hauppage, N.Y. 11787. In general, Lubrajels can be described as hydrates or clathrates which are formed by the reaction of sodium glycerate with a methacrylic acid polymer. Thereafter, the hydrate or clathrate is stabilized with a small amount of propylene glycol, followed by controlled hydration of the resulting product. Lubrajels are marketed in a number of grades of varying glycerate: polymer ratio and viscosity. Suitable Lubrajels include Lubrajel TW, Lubrajel CG and Lubrajel MS, Lubrajel WA, Lubrajel DV and so-called Lubrajel Oil.

At least part (up to about 5% by weight of composition) of the humectant can be incorporated in the form of an admixture with a particulate cross-linked hydrophobic acrylate or methacrylate copolymer, itself preferably present in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 10%, which can be added either to the aqueous or disperse phase. This copolymer is particularly valuable for reducing shine and controlling oil while helping to provide effective moisturization benefits and is described in further detail by WO96/03964, incorporated herein by reference.

Additional thickening and gelling agents can also be used in the compositions of the present invention at a level preferably from about 0.01% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.02% to about 2%, and especially from about 0.02% to about 0.5%. The additional thickening agents preferably have a viscosity (1% aqueous solution, 20 C, Brookfield RVT) of at least about 4000 mPa.s, more preferably at least about 10,000 mPa.s and especially at least 50,000 mPa.s. Suitable additional thickening and gelling agents include polysaccharides, gums, polyvinylpyrrolidone and polyvinylalcohol.

A wide variety of polysaccharides are suitable for use herein. By "polysaccharides" are meant gelling agents containing a backbone of repeating sugar (i.e. carbohydrate) units. Non-limiting examples of polysaccharide gelling agents include those selected from the group consisting of cellulose, carboxymethyl hydroxyethylcellulose, cellulose acetate propionate carboxylate, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, methyl hydroxyethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, and mixtures thereof. Also useful herein are the alkyl substituted celluloses. In these polymers, the hydroxy groups of the cellulose polymer is hydroyxalkylated (preferably hydroxyethylated or hydroxy- propylated) to form a hydroxyalkylated cellulose which is then further modified with a C10-C30 straight chain or branched chain alkyl group through an ether linkage. Typically these polymers are ethers of C10-C30 straight or branched chain alcohols with hydroxyalkylcelluloses. Examples of alkyl groups useful herein include those selected from the group consisting of stearyl, isostearyl, lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, isocetyl, cocoyl (i.e. alkyl groups derived from the alcohols of coconut oil), palmityl, oleyl, linoleyl, linolenyl, ricinoleyl, behenyl, and mixtures thereof. Preferred among the alkyl hydroxyalkyl cellulose ethers is the material given the CTFA designation cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, which is the ether of cetyl alcohol and hydroxyethylcellulose. This material is sold under the tradename Natrosol® CS Plus from Aqualon Corporation.

Other useful polysaccharides include scleroglucans comprising a linear chain of (l->3) linked glucose units with a (l->6) linked glucose every three units, a commercially

TM available example of which is Clearogel CS11 from Michel Mercier Products Inc. (Mountainside, NJ).

Other additional thickening agents useful herein include materials selected from acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hectorite, hyaluroinic acid, hydrated silica, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, kelp, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan, propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboxymethyl dextran, sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof. Also useful are acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymers and the carboxy vinyl polymers sold by the B.F. Goodrich Company under the trade mark of Carbopol resins. Suitable Carbopol resins are described in WO98/22085.

Yet further additional thickening and gelling agents useful herein include crosslinked copolymers of alkyl vinyl ethers and maleic anhdride. In these copolymers the vinyl ethers are represented by the formula R-O-CH==CH2 wherein R is a C 1 -C6 alkyl group, preferably R is methyl. Preferred crosslinking agents are C4-C20 dienes, preferably C6 to C16 dienes, and most preferably C8 to C12 dienes. A particularly preferred copolymer is one formed from methyl vinyl ether and maleic anhydride wherein the copolymer has been crosslinked with decadiene, and wherein the polymer when diluted as a 0.5% aqueous solution at pH 7 at 25°C has a viscosity of 50,000-70,000 mPa.s (cps) when measured using a Brookfield RTV viscometer, spindle #7 at 10 rpm. This copolymer has the CTFA designation PVM/MA decadiene crosspolymer and is commercially available as Stabileze^tm 06 from International Specialty Products (Wayne NJ).

Neutralizing agents suitable for use in neutralizing acidic group containing hydrophihc gelling agents herein include sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine.

The compositions of the invention are generally in emulsion form and are preferably formulated so as to have a product viscosity of at least about 4,000 mPa.s and preferably in the range from about 4,000 to about 300,000 mPa.s, more preferably from about 8,000 to about 200,000 mPa.s and especially from about 10,000 to about 100,000 mPa.s and even more especially from about 10,000 to about 50,000 mPa.s (25 C, neat, Brookfield RVT Spindle No. 5).

The compositions of the invention can also contain from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about 1% to about 5% of a panthenol moisturizer. The panthenol moisturizer can be selected from D-panthenol ([R]-2,4-dihydroxy-N-[3-hydroxypropyl)]- 3,3-dimethylbutamide), DL-panthenol, calcium pantothenate, royal jelly, panthetine, pantotheine, panthenyl ethyl ether, pangamic acid, pyridoxin, pantoyl lactose and Vitamin B complex. Highly preferred from the viewpoint of skin care and tack reduction is D-panthenol.

The compositions of the present invention can additionally comprise from about 0.001% to about 0.5%, preferably from about 0.002% to about 0.05%, more preferably from about 0.005% to about 0.02% by weight of carboxymethylchitin. Chitin is a polysaccharide which is present in the integument of lobsters and crabs and is a mucopolysaccharide having beta (1-4) linkages of N-acetyl-D-glucosamine. Carboxy- methylchitin is prepared by treating the purified chitin material with alkali followed by monochloracetic acid. It is sold commercially in the form of a dilute (approximately 0.1% to 0.5% by weight) aqueous solution under the name Chitin Liquid available from A & E Connock Ltd., Fordingbridge, Hampshire, England.

Other optional materials include keratolytic agents/desquamation agents such as salicylic acid; proteins and polypeptides and derivatives thereof; water-soluble or solubilizable preservatives preferably at a level of from about 0.1% to about 5%, such as Germall 115, methyl, ethyl, propyl and butyl esters of hydroxybenzoic acid, benzyl alcohol, EDTA, Euxyl (RTM) K400, Bromopol (2-bromo-2-nitropropane-l,3-diol) and phenoxypropanol; anti-bacterials such as Irgasan (RTM) and phenoxyethanol (preferably at levels of from 0.1% to about 5%); soluble or colloidally-soluble moisturising agents such as hylaronic acid and starch-grafted sodium polyacrylates such as Sanwet (RTM) IM-1000, IM-1500 and IM-2500 available from Celanese Superabsorbent Materials, Portsmith, VA, USA and described in USA-A-4,076,663; vitamins such as vitamin A, vitamin C, vitamin E and vitamin K; alpha and beta hydroxyacids; aloe vera; sphingosines and phytosphingosines, cholesterol; skin whitening agents; N-acetyl cysteine; colouring agents; perfumes and perfume solubilizers.

Also useful herein are sunscreening agents. A wide variety of sunscreening agents are described in U.S. Patent No. 5,087,445, to Haffey et al, issued February 11, 1992; U.S. Patent No. 5,073,372, to Turner et al., issued December 17, 1991; U.S. Patent No. 5,073,371, to Turner et al. issued December 17, 1991 ; and Segarin, et al., at Chapter VIII, pages 189 et seq., of Cosmetics Science and Technology. Preferred among those sunscreens which are useful in the compositions of the invention are those selected from 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl N,N-dimethyl-p-aminobenzoate, p- aminobenzoic acid, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, octocrylene, oxybenzone, homomenthyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, 4,4'-methoxy-t-butyldibenzoylmethane, 4- isopropyl dibenzoylmethane, 3-benzylidene camphor, 3-(4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, silica, iron oxide, Parsol MCX, Eusolex 6300, Octocrylene, Parsol 1789, and mixtures thereof. Still other useful sunscreens are those disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 4,937,370, to Sabatelli, issued June 26, 1990; and U.S. Patent No. 4,999,186, to Sabatelli et al., issued March 12, 1991.

Generally, the sunscreens can comprise from about 0.5% to about 20% of the compositions useful herein. Exact amounts will vary depending upon the sunscreen chosen and the desired Sun Protection Factor (SPF). SPF is a commonly used measure of photoprotection of a sunscreen against erythema. See Federal Register. Vol. 43, No. 166, pp. 38206-38269, August 25, 1978.

The compositions of the present invention can additionally comprise from about 0.1% to about 5% by weight of aluminium starch octenylsuccinate. Aluminium starch octenyl- succinate is the aluminium salt of the reaction product of octenylsuccinic anhydride with starch and is commercially available under the trade name from Dry Flo National Starch & Chemical Ltd. Dry Flo is useful herein from the viewpoint of skin feel and application characteristics.

Other optional materials herein include pigments which, where water-insoluble, contribute to and are included in the total level of oil phase ingredients. Pigments suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention can be organic and/or inorganic. Also included within the term pigment are materials having a low colour or lustre such as matte finishing agents, and also light scattering agents. Examples of suitable pigments are iron oxides, acyglutamate iron oxides, ultramarine blue, D&C dyes, carmine, and mixtures thereof. Depending upon the type of composition, a mixture of pigments will normally be used. The preferred pigments for use herein from the viewpoint of moisturisation, skin feel, skin appearance and emulsion compatibility are treated pigments. The pigments can be treated with compounds such as amino acids, silicones, lecithin and ester oils.

Vitamin B3 component

The compositions of the present invention can also comprise a safe and effective amount of a vitamin B3 compound. The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise from about 0.01% to about 50%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about

10%, even more preferably from about 0.5% to about 10%, and still more preferably from about 1% to about 5%, most preferably from about 2% to about 5%, of the vitamin B3 compound.

As used herein, "vitamin B3 compound" means a compound having the formula:

wherein R is - CONH2 (i.e., niacinamide), - COOH (i.e., nicotinic acid) or - CH2OH

(i.e., nicotinyl alcohol); derivatives thereof; and salts of any of the foregoing. Exemplary derivatives of the foregoing vitamin B3 compounds include nicotinic acid esters, including non-vasodilating esters of nicotinic acid, nicotinyl amino acids, nicotinyl alcohol esters of carboxyhc acids, nicotinic acid N-oxide and niacinamide N-oxide.

Suitable esters of nicotinic acid include nicotinic acid esters of Cj-C22_> preferably Ci - C\ , more preferably Ci -Cg alcohols. The alcohols are suitably straight-chain or branched chain, cyclic or acyclic, saturated or unsaturated (including aromatic), and substituted or unsubstituted. The esters are preferably non-vasodilating. As used herein,

"non-vasodilating" means that the ester does not commonly yield a visible flushing response after application to the skin in the subject compositions (the majority of the general population would not experience a visible flushing response, although such compounds may cause vasodilation not visible to the naked eye). Non-vasodilating esters of nicotinic acid include tocopherol nicotinate and inositol hexanicotinate; tocopherol nicotinate is preferred. A more complete description of vitamin B3 compounds is given in WO 98/22085.

Examples of the above vitamin B3 compounds are well known in the art and are commercially available from a number of sources, e.g., the Sigma Chemical Company

(St. Louis, MO); ICN Biomedicals, Inc. (Irvin, CA) and Aldrich Chemical Company (Milwaukee, WI). One or more vitamin B3 compounds may be used herein. Preferred vitamin B3 compounds are niacinamide and tocopherol nicotinate. Niacinamide is more preferred.

Retinoids

In a preferred embodiment, the compositions of the present invention also contain a retinoid. The vitamin B3 compound and retinoid provide unexpected benefits in regulating skin condition, especially in therapeutically regulating signs of skin aging, more especially wrinkles, lines, and pores. Without intending to be bound or otherwise limited by theory, it is believed that the vitamin B3 compound increases the conversion of certain retinoids to trans-retinoic acid, which is believed to be the biologically active form of the retinoid, to provide synergistic regulation of skin condition (namely, increased conversion for retinol, retinol esters, and retinal). In addition, the vitamin B3 compound unexpectedly mitigates redness, inflammation, dermatitis and the like which may otherwise be associated with topical application of retinoid (often referred to, and hereinafter alternatively referred to as "retinoid dermatitis"). Furthermore, the combined vitamin B3 compound and retinoid tend to increase the amount and activity of thioredoxin, which tends to increase collagen expression levels via the protein AP-1. Therefore, the present invention enables reduced active levels, and therefore reduced potential for retinoid dermatitis, while retaining significant positive skin conditioning benefits. In addition, higher levels of retinoid may still be used to obtain greater skin conditioning efficacy, without undesirable retinoid dermatitis occurring.

As used herein, "retinoid" includes all natural and/or synthetic analogs of Vitamin A or retinol-like compounds which possess the biological activity of Vitamin A in the skin as well as the geometric isomers and stereoisomers of these compounds. The retinoid is preferably retinol, retinol esters (e.g., C2 - C22 alkyl esters of retinol, including retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl proprionate), retinal, and/or retinoic acid (including all- trans retinoic acid and/or 13-cis-retinoic acid), more preferably retinoids other than retinoic acid. These compounds are well known in the art and are commercially available from a number of sources, e.g., Sigma Chemical Company (St. Louis, MO), and Boehringer Mannheim (Indianapolis, IN). Preferred retinoids are retinol, retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl proprionate, retinal and combinations thereof. More preferred are retinol and retinyl palmitate. The retinoid may be included as the substantially pure material, or as an extract obtained by suitable physical and/or chemical isolation from natural (e.g., plant) sources.

The compositions preferably contain from or about 0.005% to or about 2%, more preferably 0.01% to about 2% retinoid. Retinol is most preferably used in an amount of from or about 0.01% to or about 0.15%; retinol esters are most preferably used in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 2% (e.g., about 1%).

The pH of the compositions herein is preferably from about 4 to about 9, more preferably from about 6 to about 8.0. The water content of the compositions herein is generally from about 30% to about 98.89%, preferably from about 50% to about 95% and especially from about 60% to about 90% by weight.

The compositions of the invention are preferably in the form of a moisturising cream or lotion, which can be applied to the skin as a leave-on product. The invention is illustrated by the following examples.

Examples I to V

Ingredient % w/w % w/w % w/w % w/w % w/w

Glycerine 9.00 5.00 8.00 6.50 7.50

Urea 1.40 1.80 2.20 1.98 1.60

Kronos (T102)¹ 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15

Arlatone 2121² - 0.50 1.50 0.60 0.50

Carbopol 1382³ 0.10 0.08 0.10 - -

Seppigel 305⁴ 3.00 2.50 1.50 3.00 3.00

Sodium Hydroxide (40% soln.) 0.30 0.25 0.30 0.10 0.10 Hydrofol Acid 0.10 0.09 0.10 0.12 0.13

Myrj 59⁵ 0.10 0.10 0.09 0.12 0.10

Stearyl Alcohol 0.48 0.38 0.40 0.32 0.48

Cetyl Alcohol 1.72 0.85 1.00 0.72 0.72

Isononyl Isononanoate" 1.50 1.50 0.75 1.50 -

SEFA Cottonate⁷ 1.50 1.00 1.50 0.75 1.80

Myrystyl Myristate - - - - 1.00

DMDM Hydantoin⁹ 0.10 0.10 0.15 0.15 0.18

Niacinamide - 2.00 2.00 - 2.00

D-Panthenol - 0.50 0.50 0.40 -

EDTA 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10

DC Q2-1403¹⁰ 2.00 1.60 1.60 1.80 1.50

Tocopherol acetate - 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.02

Deionised Water to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100

1. Supplied by Kronos, 4 Place Ville Marie # 500, Montreal, Quebec, Canada

2. Supplied by ICI Surfactants, PO Box 90, Wilton Centre, Middlesborough, Cleveland, England. TS6 8JE

3. B.F. Goodrich, 9911 Brecksville Road, Brecksville, OH 44141, USA

4. Supplied by Seppic, 75 Quai D'Orsay, Paris

5. PEG 100 Stearate supplied by ICI, PO Box 90, Wilton Centre, Middlesborough, Cleveland, England. TS6 8JE

6. Lanol 99 supplied by Seppic

7. A C1-C30 monoester or polyester of sugars and one or more carboxyhc acid moieties as described herein, preferably a sucrose polyester in which the degree of esterification is 7-8, and in which the fatty acid moieties are C18 mono- and/or di- unsaturated and behenic, in a molar ratio of unsaturates:behenic of 1 :7 to 3:5, more preferably the octaester of sucrose in which there are about 7 behenic fatty acid moieties and about 1 oleic acid moiety in the molecule, e.g., sucrose ester of cottonseed oil fatty acids.

8. Cetiol MM supplied by Henkel KaGA, Henkel Straβe 67, Germany

9. Supplied by Nipa Laboratories, Pontypridd, Wales

10. Supplied by Dow Corning, Kings Court, 185 Kinds Rd, Reading, Berks, RG1 4EX The compositions are made as follows:

A first premix of thickening agents, glycerine/TiO2 premix, Arlatone 2121 when present, and other water soluble ingredients apart from urea, is prepared by admixing in water and heating to about 80°C. A second premix of the oil phase ingredients including the emulsifiers, oil-soluble preservatives, other than silicone gum is prepared by mixing and heating and is added to the aqueous premix.

The resulting mixture is cooled to about 60°C. The Seppigel 305 is added under shear. The NaOH solution, EDTA, silicone gum, and then urea solution (lg dissolved in 1ml of water) are then added to the resulting oil-in-water emulsion and the mixture is cooled before adding minor ingredients. The composition is ready for packaging.

The compositions display improved skin feel, skin smoothness, skin softness and skin care characteristics together with reduced greasiness and excellent rub-in and fast absorption characteristics.

Claims

What is claimed is:

1. A cosmetic composition suitable for topical application to the skin comprising: a) a polyol carboxyhc acid ester having a polyol moiety and at least 4 carboxyhc acid moieties, wherein the polyol moiety is selected from sugars and sugar alcohols containing from about 4 to about 8 hydroxyl groups, and wherein each carboxyhc acid moiety has from about 2 to about 30 carbon atoms, and; b) an emollient material selected from compounds having the formula:

wherein R^ is a C2-C13 straight or branched chain alkyl and R² is independently selected from a C1 -C20 straight chain or branched chain alkyl, and; c) non-ionic thickening agents selected from polyacrylamide polymers, crosslinked poly(N-vinylpyrrolidones), and mixtures thereof.

2. A composition according to Claim 1 wherein R\ is a Cg-Ci 1 straight or branched chain alkyl and R² is independently selected from C3-C1 straight chain or branched chain alkyl.

3. A composition according to Claims 1 or 2 wherein the emollient is selected from isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl octanoate, isodecyl isononanoate, tridecyl isononanoate, myristyl octanoate, octyl isononanoate, myristyl myristate and mixtures thereof.

4. A composition according to any of Claims 1 to 3 wherein the emollient is isononyl isononanoate.

5. A composition according to any of Claims 1 to 4 comprising from about 0.1% to about 15%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 5% by weight of the emollient material.

6. A composition according to any of Claims 1 to 5 wherein the non-ionic thickening agent is a polyacrylamide polymer.

7. A composition according to any of Claims 1 to 6 comprising from about 0.01% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 15%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of the polyol carboxyhc acid ester.

8. A composition according to Claims 1 to 7 wherein the polyol carboxyhc acid ester is a liquid and has a complete melting point of less than about 30┬░C.

9. A composition according to any of Claims 1 to 7 wherein the polyol carboxyhc acid ester comprises from about 80% to about 98% of a liquid polyol carboxyhc acid ester and from about 2% to about 20% of a solid polyol carboxyhc acid ester.

10. A cosmetic method of treatment of the skin comprising applying to the skin a composition according to any of Claims 1 to 9.