EP1098624A1 - Systemes finement disperses sans emulsifiant, du type huile dans eau et eau dans huile - Google Patents

Systemes finement disperses sans emulsifiant, du type huile dans eau et eau dans huile

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Publication number
EP1098624A1
EP1098624A1 EP99938319A EP99938319A EP1098624A1 EP 1098624 A1 EP1098624 A1 EP 1098624A1 EP 99938319 A EP99938319 A EP 99938319A EP 99938319 A EP99938319 A EP 99938319A EP 1098624 A1 EP1098624 A1 EP 1098624A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
water
oil
preparations according
preparations
cosmetic
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
EP99938319A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Heinrich Gers-Barlag
Anja MÜLLER
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Beiersdorf AG
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf AG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf AG filed Critical Beiersdorf AG
Publication of EP1098624A1 publication Critical patent/EP1098624A1/fr
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/33—Free of surfactant
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A61K2800/412—Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/60—Particulates further characterized by their structure or composition
    • A61K2800/65—Characterized by the composition of the particulate/core
    • A61K2800/654—The particulate/core comprising macromolecular material

Definitions

  • Emulsifier-free, finely dispersed oil-in-water and water-in-OI systems Emulsifier-free, finely dispersed oil-in-water and water-in-OI systems
  • the present invention relates to emulsifier-free finely dispersed systems of the type Oi-m-water and water-in-OI, preferably as cosmetic or dermatological preparations
  • Emulsions are generally understood to mean heterogeneous systems which consist of two liquids which are immiscible or only miscible with one another to a limited extent and which are usually referred to as phases
  • OI-in-water emulsion O ⁇ / V emulsion, e.g. milk
  • the basic character of an O ⁇ / V emulsion is complete the water is shaped
  • a water-in-oil emulsion (W / O emulsion, eg butter) is the opposite principle, whereby the basic character is determined by the oil
  • Emulsifiers have an amphiphilic molecular structure consisting of a polar (hydrophilic) and a non-polar (lipophilic) part of the molecule which are spatially separated from each other
  • emulsifier shell In simple emulsions in one phase there are finely dispersed droplets of the second phase (water droplets in W / O or lipid vesicles in O / W emulsions) enclosed by an emulsifier shell.
  • Emulsifiers reduce the interfacial tension between the phases by starting the interface between the two liquids are arranged on the phase exclude oil / water interface films, which counteracts the irreversible confluence of the droplets.
  • Emulsifier mixtures are often used to stabilize emulsions
  • emulsifiers can be divided into ionic (anionic cationic and amphoteric) and nonionic according to their hydrophilic molecular part.
  • anionic emulsifier is soap, which is commonly referred to as the water-soluble sodium or potassium salts of saturated and unsaturated higher fatty acids.
  • the quaternary ammonium compounds are important representatives of the cationic emulsifiers.
  • the hydrophilic part of the molecule of nonionic emulsifiers often consists of glycine, polyglycine, sorbitan, carbohydrates or polyoxyethylene glycols and is usually linked to the lipophilic part of the molecule via ester and ether bonds. This usually consists of fatty alcohols, fatty acids or isofatty acids
  • lipophilicity and hydrophilicity of emulsifiers can be changed within wide limits
  • emulsifiers are decisive for the stability of an emulsion.
  • the characteristics of all substances contained in the system have to be taken into account. If one looks at skin care emulsions, for example, polar oil components and UV filters, for example, lead to instabilities.
  • other stabilizers are therefore used. which, for example, increase the viscosity of the emulsion and / or act as a protective colloid
  • Emulsions are an important product type in the field of cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations
  • Cosmetic preparations are mainly used for skin care.
  • Skin care in the cosmetic sense is primarily that the natural function of the skin acts as a barrier against environmental influences (e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of the body's own substances (e.g. water, natural fats , Electrolyte) is strengthened or restored If this function is disrupted, it can lead to strong absorption of toxic or allergenic substances or infestation of microorganisms and, as a result, toxic or allergic skin reactions
  • the aim of skin care is also to compensate for the loss of fat and water in the skin caused by daily washing.This is especially important when the natural regeneration capacity is not sufficient.
  • skin care products are intended to protect against environmental influences, especially sun and wind, and delay skin aging
  • Cosmetic preparations are also used as deodorants. Such formulations serve to eliminate the body odor that arises when the fresh, odorless sweat is decomposed by microorganisms
  • Medical topical compositions usually contain one or more drugs in effective concentration.
  • drugs for the sake of simplicity, reference is made to the legal provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany in order to clearly differentiate between cosmetic and medical use and corresponding products (e.g. cosmetics regulation, food and drug law).
  • emulsifiers like ultimately any chemical substance, can cause allergic reactions or reactions based on hypersensitivity of the user in individual cases
  • a reduction in the amount of emulsifier required can be achieved, for example, if very finely divided solid particles have an additional stabilizing effect.
  • the solid substance accumulates at the oil / water phase boundary in the form of a layer, causing the disperse phases to flow together. It is not the chemical, but the surface properties of the solid particles that are essential
  • the solid particles are only suitable for stabilization if they are significantly smaller than the droplets of the inner phase and do not tend to form agglomerates
  • An important property of an emulsion-stabilizing solid is also its wettability D h to stabilize an O / W emulsion, the solid must, for example, be more easily wettable by water than by oil
  • European Offenlegungsschrift 0 686 391 describes water-in-oil emulsions which are free from surface-active substances and are only stabilized by solids.
  • spherical polyalkylsilsesquioxane particles with a diameter of 100 nm up to are used Having 20 ⁇ m
  • picking emulsions after what has been said above
  • Hydrodispersions are dispersions of a liquid, semisolid or solid internal (discontinuous) lipid phase in an external aqueous (continuous) Phase
  • the stability can be ensured, for example, by building a gel framework in which the lipid droplets are stably suspended in the aqueous phase.
  • German Offenlegungssch ⁇ ft 44 25 268 describes stable, finely dispersed, emulsifier-free cosmetic or dermatological preparations of the type Ol-m-water, which, in addition to an oil and a water phase, contain one or more thickeners from the group of acrylic acid polymers polysaccharides and their alkyl ethers, it being impossible for these thickeners to measure an interfacial tension reduction
  • German Offenlegungssch ⁇ ft 43 03 983 discloses cosmetic or dermatological light protection formulations which are essentially free of emulsifiers, the hydrochloride being inorganic micropigments are incorporated, which serve as UV filter substances
  • cosmetic or dermatological preparations which are finely dispersed systems of the oil-in-water or water-in-oil type
  • 3 at least one modified polysaccharide which (a) shows both hydrophilic and lipophilic properties, which therefore has amphiphilic character and is dispersible both in water and in oil and which (b) shows no thickening properties and
  • the preparations contain significantly less than 0.5% by weight of one or more emulsifiers.
  • Preparations according to the invention which are completely free of emulsifiers in the conventional sense are very particularly preferred
  • the preparations according to the invention are mixtures of oils or olloshes and water or water-soluble components, which are stabilized by the addition of the modified polysaccharides and do not have to contain an emulsifier in the conventional sense.
  • the stabilization is achieved in that the modified polysaccharides adhere to the droplets of the disperse Phase and so They form a mechanical barrier that prevents coalescence, ie the droplets from flowing together
  • hydrocolloids are macromolecules which have a largely linear shape and have intermolecular interaction forces which have secondary and main valence bonds between them enable the individual molecules and thus the formation of a network-like structure. They are partially water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers that form gels or viscous solutions in water systems
  • the water phase fraction of the W / O-P ⁇ cker ⁇ ng emulsions according to the invention is preferably selected from the range of 0 5 to 75% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulations
  • the fat phase fraction of the O / W-Picking emulsions according to the invention is preferably selected from the range from 5 to 75% by weight, very particularly advantageously from the range from 10 to 70% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the formulations
  • Modified polysacrissas in the sense of the present invention can be obtained, for example, by reacting starch with monobi- or polyfunctional reagents or oxidizing agents in reactions which are largely polymer-analogous
  • Such reactions are essentially based on conversions of the hydroxyl groups of the polyglucans by etherification, esterification or selective oxidation.
  • so-called starch ethers and starch esters of the general structural formula are formed
  • R can represent, for example, a hydrogen and / or an alkyl and / or aralkyl radical (in the case of the starch ether) or a hydrogen and / or an organic and / or inorganic acid radical (in the case of the starch ester)
  • R can represent, for example, a hydrogen and / or an alkyl and / or aralkyl radical (in the case of the starch ether) or a hydrogen and / or an organic and / or inorganic acid radical (in the case of the starch ester)
  • starch ethers are, for example, those which can be obtained by etherifying starch with tetramethylolacetylene diurea and which are referred to as Amylum non mucilaginosum (non-swelling starch)
  • starch esters and their salts for example the sodium and / or aluminum salts of low-substituted half-esters of starch, in particular sodium starch n-octenyl succinate of the structural formula (I), where R is distinguished by the following structure and which, for example, is available under the trade name Amiogum 23 from CERESTAR and aluminum strong octenyl succinates, in particular those available under the trade names Dry Flo ® Elite LL and Dry Flo ® PC from CERESTAR
  • the average particle diameter of the modified polysaccharides used is advantageous to be less than 20 ⁇ m, particularly advantageously less than 15 ⁇ m
  • modified polysacchands which can stabilize picking emulsions according to the invention, should of course not be limiting.
  • Modified polysacchands in the sense of the present invention are obtainable in numerous ways known per se, both chemical and physical in nature.
  • Modified polysacchands according to the invention are also available New ways are imaginable It is essential to the invention that the modified polysacchands show amphiphilic properties and that they do not have a thickening effect
  • amphiphilic modified polysacchands according to the invention with other amphiphilic pigments, which may also contribute to stabilizing the picking emulsions
  • Such pigments are, for example, micronized, inorganic pigments which are selected from the group of amphiphilic metal oxides, in particular from the group titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, silicon dioxide or silicates (for example talc), it being possible for the metal oxides to be present both individually and in a mixture irrelevant in which of the naturally occurring modifications the amphiphilic metal oxides used are present
  • the average particle diameter of the amphiphilic metal oxides used for combination with polysaccharides according to the invention is preferably selected between 1 nm and 200 nm, particularly advantageously between 5 nm and 100 nm
  • amphiphilic modified polysacchands according to the invention with untreated, almost pure, amphiphilic metal oxide particles, in particular with those which can also be used as a dye in the food industry and / or as an absorber of UV radiation in sunscreens are, for example, the zinc oxide pigments available from Merck and those which are available under the trade names zinc oxide neutral from Haarmann & Reimer or NanoX from the Harcros Chemical Group
  • modified polysacchand (s) are preferably combined with one or more of the boron nitrides listed below
  • the average particle diameter of the boron particles used is preferably selected to be less than 20 ⁇ m, in particular less than 15 ⁇ m
  • modified polysaccharides with amphiphilic inorganic pigments which have been surface-treated (“coated”) to be water-repellent, and at the same time an amphiphilic character of these pigments is to be formed or is to be retained.
  • This surface treatment can then consist of the pigments after known methods can be provided with a thin hydrophobic layer
  • Such a method which is described below using the example of titanium dioxide, consists, for example, in that the hydrophobic surface layer after a reaction
  • n and m are produced according to the stochiometric parameters to be used, R and R 'are the desired organic radicals.
  • Particularly advantageous combination partners are T ⁇ 0 2 -p ⁇ gmente, for example those coated with aluminum stearate, available under the trade name MT 100 T from TAYCA
  • a further advantageous coating of the combination partners consists of dimethyl polysiloxane (also dimethicone), a mixture of fully methylated, linear siloxane polymers which are blocked with terminal methyl siloxane units.
  • dimethyl polysiloxane also dimethicone
  • the combination of modified polysaccharides with zinc oxide is particularly advantageous in the sense of the present invention -Pigments that are coated in this way.
  • Advantageous combination partners are also boron nitride particles available from Carborundum under the trade name Tres BN ® UHP 1106 and treated with dimethicone
  • coated boron nitride particles are furthermore those which have been treated with polymethylhydrogensiloxane, a linear polysiloxane, which is also referred to as methicone.
  • Advantageous boron nitride particles treated with methicone are, for example, those available from Carborundum under the trade name Tres BN® UHP 1107
  • the inorganic amphiphilic pigments used in addition to modified polysaccharides are coated with a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane, in particular dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane units, and silica gel, which is also referred to as simethicone is particularly advantageous if the inorganic pigments are additionally coated with aluminum hydroxide or aluminum oxide hydrate (also alumina, CAS No. 1333-84-2).
  • Particularly advantageous combination partners are titanium dioxides coated with simethicone and alumina are, the coating may also contain water.
  • An example of this is the titanium dioxide available from Merck under the trade name Eusolex T2000
  • Another advantage of the present invention is the combination of modified polysaccharides with a mixture of different inorganic, amphiphiier pigment types both within a crystal, for example as iron mixed oxide or talc (magnesium silicate), and by mixing several metal oxide types within one preparation.
  • Particularly advantageous combination partners are Magnesium silicates, for example those available from Grolmann under the trade name Talkum Micron
  • amphiphilic modified polysacchands according to the invention can furthermore advantageously be combined with titanium dioxide pigments which are coated with octylsilanol and / or with silicon dioxide particles which have been surface-treated to be water-repellent.
  • suitable silicon dioxide particles are spherical polyalkylsilsesquioxane particles as mentioned in European Offenlegungsschrift 686 391
  • Such polyalkylsilsesquioxane particles are available, for example, from Degussa under the trade names Aerosil R972 and Aerosil 200V
  • the modified polysaccharides are further advantageously combined with microfine polymer particles which are present in the preparation in the form of solids.
  • Favorable combination partners for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, polycarbonates, polyethers, polyethylene, polypropylene, polyvinyl chloride, polystyrene, polyamides, polyacrylates and the like
  • Combination partners which are suitable according to the invention are, for example, microfine polyamide particles, in particular those available from TORAY under the trade name SP-500.
  • Polyamide 6 (also nylon 6) or polyamide 12 (also nylon 12) particles are particularly advantageous of ⁇ -aminocaproic acid (6- Aminohexansaure) or ⁇ -caprolactam constructed polyamide [poly ( ⁇ -caprolactam)] and nylon-12 is a poly ( ⁇ -Iau ⁇ nlactam) from ⁇ -Lau ⁇ nlactam advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are, for example Orgasol ® 1002 (Polyamide 6) and Orgasol ® 2002 (polyamide 12) from ELF ATOCHEM
  • Further advantageous microfine polymer particles which are suitable for combination with modified Polysaccha ⁇ den microfine polymethacrylates Such particles are obtainable, for example under the trade name POLYTRAP ® by the company DOW CHEMICAL
  • microfine polymer particles used as combination partners are coated on the surface.
  • This surface treatment can consist in that the polymer particles are provided with a thin hydrophilic layer by methods known per se.
  • Advantageous coatings consist, for example, of titanium dioxide (T ⁇ O 2 ). , Zirconium dioxide (Zr0 2 ) or other polymers, such as, for example, polymethyl methacrylate.
  • Particularly advantageous microfine polymer particles for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, those obtainable by the process for hydrophilic coating of hydrophobic polymer particles described in US Pat. No. 4,898,913
  • the average particle diameter of the microfine polymer particles used as the combination partner is preferably selected to be less than 100 ⁇ m, particularly advantageously less than 50 ⁇ m. It is essentially irrelevant in what form (plates, rods, spheres, etc.) the polymer particles used are present
  • the concentration of all pigments greater than 0.1% by weight, particularly advantageously between 0.1% and 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, the concentration of amphiphilic modified polysaccharides according to the invention - likewise based on the total weight of the preparations - for the purposes of the present invention, preferably from the range 0 1% by weight to 30% by weight, advantageously 0.5% by weight to 10% by weight
  • the oil phase of the Pickering emulsions according to the invention is advantageously selected from the group of the polar oils, for example from the group of the lethins and the fatty acid glycides, in particular the glycine esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty acid glycides are advantageously chosen from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, such as, for example, olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palmol, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, thistle oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like
  • further advantageous polar oil components can also be selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms and from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms.
  • esterols can then advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl myp-stat, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyhsononanoate 2-ethylhexyl palmate hexate, ethyl-2-ethyldatylate, 2-ethyldatylate, 2-ethyldatylate, 2-ethyldatylate, 2-ethyldecylate, Oleyl oleate, Oleylerucat, Erucyloleat, Erucyterucat as well as synthetic, semi-synthetic tables and natural mixtures of such esters, such as jojobaol
  • the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols. It is particularly advantageous if the oil phase of the W / O emulsions according to the invention has a content of C 2 -alkyl alkyl benzoate or consists entirely of this
  • any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous, if appropriate, to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase
  • the oil phase of the Pickering emulsions according to the invention although not necessarily also advantageously, also contain nonpolar oils, for example those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular petroleum jelly (petrolatum), paraffinol, squalane and Squalene polyolefins and hydrogenated polyisobutenes Among the polyolefins, polydecenes are the preferred substances
  • the oil phase can advantageously also have a content of cyclic or linear silicon cones or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other olphase components in addition to the silicon cone or the silicon cones
  • Cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is advantageously used as the silicone cone to be used according to the invention.
  • other silicon alcohols can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclot ⁇ siloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).
  • the Pickering emulsions according to the invention can serve as the basis for cosmetic or dermatological formulations. These can be composed as usual and, for example, for the treatment and care of the skin, as a lip care product, as a demo product and as a make-up or make-up removal product in decorative cosmetics or as a light protection preparation
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention are applied to the skin in a sufficient amount in the same way as for cosmetics
  • cosmetic or topical dermatological compositions within the meaning of the present invention, depending on their structure, can be used, for example, as skin protection cream, cleansing milk, sunscreen lotion, nutritional cream, day or night cream, etc. It is possible and advantageous, if appropriate, to use the compositions according to the invention as the basis for pharmaceutical formulations to use
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, for example preservatives, bactericidal perfumes, substances for preventing foaming, dyes, pigments which have a coloring effect, thickening agents, softening and / or moisturizing substances, fatty oils Waxes or other common components of a cosmetic or dermatological technological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives
  • compositions according to the invention are very good vehicles for cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients in the skin, advantageous active ingredients being antioxidants which can protect the skin against oxidative stress
  • the preparations advantageously contain one or more antioxidants. All the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as inexpensive, but nevertheless optional antioxidants. It is advantageous to use antioxidants as the only class of active ingredient, for example, when a cosmetic or dermatological application is in the foreground, such as combating the oxidative stress on the skin. However, it is also advantageous to provide the stick preparations according to the invention with one or more antioxidants if the preparations are to serve a different purpose , e.g. as deodorants or sunscreens
  • the antioxidants are particularly advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (for example glycine, histidine, tyrosm, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (for example urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-camosin, D-carnosine, L. -Car- nosm and their derivatives (e.g. Anse ⁇ n), carotmoids, carotenes (e.g. ⁇ -carotene, ß-carotene, Lycopm) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (e.g.
  • amino acids for example glycine, histidine, tyrosm, tryptophan
  • imidazoles for example urocanic acid
  • peptides such as D, L-camosin, D-carnosine, L. -Car- nosm and their derivatives (e.g. Anse ⁇ n)
  • thiols e.g. thioredoxm glutathione cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, ⁇ -linoleyl, cholesteryl - and glyceryl esters
  • salts dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thio dipropionate thiodipropionic acid and its derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g.
  • ⁇ -linolenic acid linoleic acid, oleic acid
  • folic acid and their derivatives ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives
  • vitamin C and derivatives e.g. ascorbyl palmitate , Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate
  • tocopherols and derivatives e.g.
  • vitamin E acetate
  • vitamin A and derivatives vitamin A palmitate
  • the amount of the aforementioned antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations according to the invention is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation
  • vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
  • vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range of 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation
  • the active ingredients can also be selected very advantageously from the group of hpophilic active ingredients, in particular from the following group
  • Acetylsa cyclic acid atropine azulene hydrocortisone and its derivatives for example hydrocortisol-17-valerate vitamins for example ascorbic acid and its derivatives vitamins of B and D-series very cheap the vitamin Bi the vitamin B 12 the vitamin Di, but also bisabolol unsaturated fatty acids namely the essential fatty acids (often also called vitamin F) especially the gamma-linolenic acid, oleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid docosahexaenoic acid and their derivatives, chloramphenicol, Caffeine prostaglandins, thymol camphor extracts or other products of plant and animal origin, e.g. evening primrose oil, borage oil or currant kernel oil, fish oil, cod liver oil but also ceramides and ceramide-like compounds and so on
  • the active substances from the group of the refatting substances, for example Purcelhnol, Euce ⁇ t and Neoce ⁇ t
  • Cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen are also favorable. They preferably contain at least one UV-A filter substance and / or at least one UV-B filter substance and / or at least one further inorganic pigment from the group of the oxides of iron , Zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum, cerium and mixtures thereof as well as modifications in which the oxides are the active agents
  • Preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UV-B range, the total amount of the filter substances, for example, 0 1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0 5 to 15% by weight, based on the
  • the emulsions according to the invention contain UV-B filter substances, they can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
  • Olloscopic UV-B filters which are advantageous according to the invention are, for example
  • 3-Benzyhdencampher-De ⁇ vate preferably 3- (4-Methylbenzyl ⁇ den) camphor, 3-Benzylidencampher,
  • 4-Amino-benzoic acid derivatives preferably 4- (dimethylamino) -benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) amyl benzoate,
  • esters of cinnamic acid preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester,
  • Esters of sahcyl acid preferably sahcyl acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, salicyl acid (4-isopropylbenzyl) ester, sahcyl acid homomethyl ester,.
  • Derivatives of benzophenone preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone,
  • esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester
  • T ⁇ azinden ⁇ vate symmetrically or asymmetrically substituted with respect to the C 3 axis of the basic T ⁇ azin body, preferably 4,4 ', 4 "- (1, 3,5-Tr ⁇ az ⁇ n-2,4,6-t ⁇ ylt ⁇ m ⁇ no) - t ⁇ s-benzoic acid t ⁇ s (2-ethylhexyl ester ) (symmetrical) and 2,4-B ⁇ s - ⁇ [4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-t ⁇ az ⁇ n, 2,4 -B ⁇ s - ⁇ [4- (3-sulfonato) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-t ⁇ az ⁇ n sodium salt, 2,4 -B ⁇ s - ⁇ [4- (3- (2-(
  • Advantageous water-soluble UV-B filter substances are, for example
  • Salts of 2-Phenylbenz ⁇ m ⁇ dazol-5-sulfonic acid such as its sodium, potassium or its T ⁇ - ethanolammonium salt, as well as the sulfonic acid itself,.
  • Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzyhdene camphor such as 4- (2-oxo-3-bornyhdenmethyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornyhdenmethyl) sulfonic acid and their
  • UV-B filters which can be used in the picking emulsions according to the invention, is of course not intended to be limiting
  • UV-A filters in Pickering emulsions according to the invention which have hitherto usually been contained in cosmetic preparations.
  • These substances are preferably derivatives of dibenzoyl methane, in particular 1- (4'- tert-Butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione
  • UV-A filter substances are the phenylene-1,4-b ⁇ s- (2-benz ⁇ m ⁇ - dazyl) -3,3'-5.5 -tetrasulfonic acid
  • salts especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or t ⁇ ethanol ammonium salts, in particular the phenylene-1,4-b ⁇ s- (2-benz ⁇ m ⁇ dazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt
  • UV filter substances are also so-called broadband filters, i.e. Filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation.
  • a broadband filter which can be used advantageously is, for example, ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphylacrylate (octocrylene), which is available from BASF under the name Uvmul * N 539 and is distinguished by the following structure:
  • UV-A filters or so-called broadband filters are also the subject of the invention.
  • the amounts used for the UV-B combination can be used
  • Preparations according to the invention can also advantageously be used as the basis for cosmetic deodorants or antiperspirants, so that the present invention relates in a particular embodiment to Picke ⁇ ng emulsions as the basis for cosmetic deodorants
  • Cosmetic deodorants are used to eliminate body odor, which arises when the odorless fresh sweat is decomposed by microorganisms.
  • the usual cosmetic deodorants are based on different principles of action
  • additives mainly aluminum salts such as aluminum hydroxychloride (aluminum chlorohydrate) - can be used to reduce the formation of sweat
  • the bacterial flora on the skin can be reduced.
  • only the odor-causing microorganisms should be effectively reduced.
  • the sweat flow itself is not affected by this, ideally only the microbial decomposition of the sweat is temporarily stopped
  • odor-masking agents such as the common perfume constituents, odor absorbers, for example the layered silicates described in
  • Advantageous substances are, for example, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hdroxydiphenyl ether (irgasane ), 1, 6-D ⁇ - (4-chlorophenylb ⁇ guan ⁇ - do) -hexane (chlorhexidine), 3,4,4'-Tr ⁇ chlorcarban ⁇ hd, quaternary ammonium compounds, clove oil, mint thyme, triethyl citrate, farnesol (3,7,11-T ⁇ methyl- 2, 6,10-dodecat ⁇ en-1-ol) and those in the patent disclosures DE-37 40 186.
  • the cosmetic deodorants according to the invention can be in the form of water-containing cosmetic preparations which can be applied from normal containers
  • the amount of antiperspirant active ingredients or deodorants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.01 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0 1 to 20% by weight, in particular 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation
  • the pens according to the invention are also excellent vehicles for dermatological active ingredients.
  • they are suitable as carriers for acne-active substances.
  • Acne is a skin disease with various forms and causes, characterized by non-inflammatory and inflammatory knots, starting from clogged hair follicles (comedones) can lead to pustules, abscesses and scars.
  • the most common is acne vulga ⁇ s, which mainly occurs during puberty.
  • the cause of acne vulga ⁇ s is the cornification and constipation of the hair follicle mouth, which depends on the blood level of the male sex hormones the production of free fatty acids and tissue-damaging enzymes by bacteria (Propionibactenum aenes)
  • Keratolytics are substances that soften horny skin (such as warts, corns, calluses and the like) so that they can be removed more easily, or so that they fall off or dissolve
  • All common substances that are effective against acne can be used advantageously, especially benzoyl peroxide, bituminosulfonates (ammonium, sodium and calcium salts of shale oil sulfonic acids), sahcyl acid (2-hydroxybenzoic acid), miconazole (1- [2- (2 4-d ⁇ chlorobenzyloxy ) -2- (2,4-d ⁇ chlorophenyl) ethyl] - ⁇ m ⁇ dazol) and derivatives, adapalene (6- [3- (1-adamantyl) -4-methoxyphenyl] -2-naphthoic acid), azelaic acid (nonandioic acid) Mesulfen (2 7 - D ⁇ methylth ⁇ anthren C 4 H 12 S 2 ) and aluminum oxide, zinc oxide and / or femdistributed sulfur
  • the amount of the anti-acne agent (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.01 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1 to 20% by weight, in particular 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
  • Medicinal Preparation (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne des préparations cosmétiques ou dermatologiques qui constituent des systèmes finement dispersés du type huile dans eau ou eau dans huile, contenant 1) une phase huileuse, 2) une phase aqueuse, 3) au moins un polysaccharide modifié, lequel présente (a) des caractéristiques aussi bien hydrophiles que lipophiles, possède également un caractère amphiphile et est donc dispersible aussi bien dans l'eau que dans l'huile, et lequel (b) ne présente aucune propriété épaississante, et 4) au maximum 0,5 % en poids d'un ou de plusieurs émulsifiants, ainsi qu'éventuellement d'autres adjuvants, additifs et/ou principes actifs cosmétiques ou pharmaceutiques.
EP99938319A 1998-08-01 1999-07-22 Systemes finement disperses sans emulsifiant, du type huile dans eau et eau dans huile Ceased EP1098624A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE19834821 1998-08-01
DE19834821A DE19834821A1 (de) 1998-08-01 1998-08-01 Emulgatorfreie feindisperse Systeme vom Typ Öl-in-Wasser und Wasser-in-Öl
PCT/EP1999/005241 WO2000007547A1 (fr) 1998-08-01 1999-07-22 Systemes finement disperses sans emulsifiant, du type huile dans eau et eau dans huile

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1098624A1 true EP1098624A1 (fr) 2001-05-16

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EP99938319A Ceased EP1098624A1 (fr) 1998-08-01 1999-07-22 Systemes finement disperses sans emulsifiant, du type huile dans eau et eau dans huile

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US (2) US6703029B1 (fr)
EP (1) EP1098624A1 (fr)
JP (1) JP2002522362A (fr)
DE (1) DE19834821A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2000007547A1 (fr)

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DE19842786A1 (de) * 1998-09-18 2000-03-23 Beiersdorf Ag Emulgatorfreie feindisperse Systeme vom Typ Öl-in-Wasser und Wasser-in-Öl
DE19846772A1 (de) * 1998-10-10 2000-04-13 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetische und dermatoligische Hydrodispersionen mit einem Gehalt an Triglyceridwachsen
JP4920830B2 (ja) * 2001-05-14 2012-04-18 株式会社コーセー 油中水型化粧料
US20060189497A1 (en) * 2002-07-30 2006-08-24 Earl Jenevein Wood preservative
US20040234478A1 (en) * 2003-05-08 2004-11-25 The Procter & Gamble Company Personal care compositions containing a silicone elastomer
US20040223992A1 (en) * 2003-05-09 2004-11-11 The Procter & Gamble Company Wet skin treatment compositions comprising gel-networks
FR2865416B1 (fr) * 2004-01-27 2007-11-16 Centre Nat Rech Scient Compositions d'huile cristallisable stabilisees par des particules solides colloidales.
US8147853B2 (en) * 2005-02-15 2012-04-03 The Procter & Gamble Company Personal care compositions containing hydrophobically modified non-platelet particles
CN101674798B (zh) * 2007-04-26 2015-03-25 株式会社资生堂 水包油型乳化组合物及其制备方法
CN104013955B (zh) * 2014-06-18 2016-02-24 中国科学院过程工程研究所 一种不含表面活性剂的水包油乳液及其用途
DE102017203113A1 (de) * 2017-02-27 2018-08-30 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen mit einem Gehalt an anorganischen Pigmente, welche mit hydrophilem Silica beschichtet sind, und einem oder mehreren Stabilisatoren
JP6994369B2 (ja) * 2017-11-29 2022-01-14 花王株式会社 油中水型乳化化粧料

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Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
US20040018222A1 (en) 2004-01-29
DE19834821A1 (de) 2000-02-03
US6703029B1 (en) 2004-03-09
WO2000007547A1 (fr) 2000-02-17
JP2002522362A (ja) 2002-07-23

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