EP1069225B1 - Maschine zum Zusammennähen von Schuhschaft und Sohle - Google Patents

Maschine zum Zusammennähen von Schuhschaft und Sohle Download PDF

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Publication number
EP1069225B1
EP1069225B1 EP00114160A EP00114160A EP1069225B1 EP 1069225 B1 EP1069225 B1 EP 1069225B1 EP 00114160 A EP00114160 A EP 00114160A EP 00114160 A EP00114160 A EP 00114160A EP 1069225 B1 EP1069225 B1 EP 1069225B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
insole
machine
edge
guide
needle
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
EP00114160A
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English (en)
French (fr)
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EP1069225A3 (de
EP1069225A2 (de
Inventor
Mario Ciucani
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Individual
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Individual
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Filing date
Publication date
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Publication of EP1069225A2 publication Critical patent/EP1069225A2/de
Publication of EP1069225A3 publication Critical patent/EP1069225A3/de
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Publication of EP1069225B1 publication Critical patent/EP1069225B1/de
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B15/00—Machines for sewing leather goods
    • D05B15/02—Shoe sewing machines
    • D05B15/025—Shoe sewing machines for sewing moccasin-type seams

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to machines for stitching footwear.
  • the upper is open and firmly joined to a related insole made of a semi-rigid material, so as to obtain a unit, which is then joined with a sole made of leather, gum or the like.
  • Figures 1 and 1a show the IDEAL method, according to which the insole 1 is joined, by a peripheral seam 2, to the edge 3a of an upper 3, so that the border of the edge 3a is flush with the insole 1 along the whole outline of the latter.
  • Figures 2 and 2a show the first step of the S. CRISPINO method, according to which the insole 1 is joined to the edge 3a of the upper by means of a peripheral seam 2.
  • the border of the edge 3a protrudes from the outline of the insole 1 by a predetermined value, which is maintained more or less constant along the whole periphery.
  • edge 3a is folded and glued to the lower surface of the insole 1, so as to cover the seam line 2.
  • the traditional way of joining the upper and the insole according to the above described methods includes a pre-assembling operation, which is carried out before the stitching and during which the upper edge is glued to the insole in the joining area.
  • the pre-assembling operation requires the use of some lasts, includes several subsequent steps and necessitates machines prepared for this specific purpose, and is performed in the following order:
  • the upper-insole assembly is stitched by the machines of the type "Rapida” or “Blake”, known in the footwear field.
  • the upper is joined to the insole without using the lasts or any preliminary operations, such as edges previous gluing and pressing, but by stitching directly the edges by a special machine.
  • This special machine includes a guide, which has vertical surfaces, on which the edges being stitched are held in suitable positions and are fed, while a needle is moved in a plane crosswise to the edges.
  • the upper and the insole are equipped, along their edges, with a series of reference marks which must coincide with one another when the seam is completed, so as to verify the correct reciprocal positioning.
  • the apparatus is equipped with a wrinkling group, situated beside the guide and aimed at acting on the upper, so as to make wrinkles along its edge, thus making the longer peripheral extension of the upper match with the insole outline.
  • This method and apparatus are prepared explicitly for joining an upper to an insole obtained by the above described S. CRISPINO method.
  • the object of the present invention is to propose a machine, which uses the teachings of the above described method and can stitch an upper to an insole obtained by the IDEAL or S. CRISPINO method, by a simple substitution of some elements.
  • Another object of the present invention is to propose a machine, whose guiding means for the edges to be stitched are shaped in such a way, as to assure the stitching high quality and, at the same time, to make it easy for an operator to handle the upper and insole during the whole stitching process.
  • a further object of the present invention is to propose a machine, which can use medium and thick thread and which can perform knotted stitch.
  • the proposed machine is aimed at performing a peripheral seam 2, which joins firmly an insole 1 with an upper 3 of an open type.
  • peripheral seam 2 allows to obtain a insole-upper assembly, according to the IDEAL or S. CRISPINO methods, described in the introductory statement with reference to Figures 1, 1a and 2.
  • the seam shown in Figures 2 and 2a is the first step of S. CRISPINO method, according to which in a second step ( Figures 3 and 3a), the upper edge is folded and glued to the lower surface of the insole, so as to cover the seam line.
  • the second step is performed with known machines, which are not part of the present invention; the step is described only to complete the information about the S. CRISPINO method.
  • the proposed machine is obtained using a structure and associated means analogous to the ones described in the US Patent No. 4.848.252 granted to the Applicant.
  • the machine includes a head, which supports, among other elements, a longitudinal shaft equipped with a transversal arm 6.
  • the needle 7 is operated on a plane transversal to a longitudinal guide 10, which supports and guides the edges to be stitched.
  • the needle 7 is made oscillate between an idle position, beside the guide 10, and a stitching position, in which the needle passes through a slot made in the guide 10, so as to pierce the edges to be stitched.
  • the shaft of the needle 7 reciprocates axially by strokes of predetermined step, in step relation with oscillation of the needle.
  • the threads of the needle 7 and the crochet 8 bobbin can be of either medium or thick type.
  • the crochet 8 is situated beside the guide 10, on the side opposite to the one where the needle enters the slot, and is made translate axially, synchronously with the shaft of the needle 7.
  • a wrinkling group 60 also situated on the side where the needle 7 enters the slot, is operated to move alternately, in a direction longitudinal with respect to the guide 10 and crosswise thereto, in a suitable step relation with the guide 10 movement and with the needle 7 oscillation.
  • the wrinkling group 60 carries a small head 66, which acts on the edge to be stitched situated directly below it (shoe upper), so as to accelerate the movement thereof with respect to the other edge, thus wrinkling the edge in the stitching parts, where it is required, e.g. in the region of the shoe toe.
  • the guide 10 includes a main body 30, depending from a support 20, integral with the head of the proposed machine.
  • the lower part of the main body 30 is so shaped as to form a vertical support surface 33, situated on the side where the needle 7 enters the slot, with a slot 37, open from the side toward the head, which allows the needle 7 passage and the translation thereof together with the stitched edges.
  • Stop means 40 situated beside the support surface 33 and on the side where the needle 7 enters the slot, are fastened to the main body 30 in an adjustable position.
  • edges of the upper 3 and the insole 1 go in abutment against the stop means 40, which define also a side stop for the edge 3a of the upper 3.
  • the stop means 40 cooperate with the support surface 33, so as to guide the edges of the upper 3 and the insole 1 in the region of the needle 7 transition.
  • the stop means 40 are formed by a prong 41, removably fastened, by a screw 42, in a first seat 31 made in the main body 30.
  • the height of the prong 41 is adjustable with respect to the main body 30 by the slotted hole 43, through which the screw 42 passes and whose lower horizontal surface 44 defines a common abutment for the insole 1 and the upper 3.
  • the adjustment of the prong 41 height allows to change the distance between the borders of the edges and the seam line being realized.
  • the prong 41 is equipped also with a tooth 45, situated in the region of its end facing the edges to be stitched, while being introduced.
  • the tooth 45 extends downwards with respect to horizontal surface 44, so as to support laterally the edge 3a of the upper 3 by maintaining it close to the corresponding edge of the insole 1.
  • the stop means 40 are formed by a pair of feet 51, 52, removably fastened, by relative screws 53, 54, respectively in a first seat 31 of the main body 30 and in a second seat 32, situated beside the first one.
  • the first foot 51 forms a horizontal strip 51a, against which the upper part of the insole 1 goes in abutment.
  • the second foot 52 includes a horizontal strip 52a, which extends laterally downwards, so as to form a substantially vertical wall 52b.
  • the upper part of the upper 3 edge goes in abutment against the wall 52b and is supported laterally thereby.
  • the feet 51, 52 are adjustable in height, with respect to the main body 30, independently one from the other, by slots made in the through holes of the fastening screws, so as to obtain the desired protrusion of the edge 3a of the upper 3 with respect to the insole 1 and the desired position of the seam line, as has been already described for the prong 41.
  • a separating baffle 70 hinged to the main body 30 by a pivot 71, cooperates with the wrinkling group 60 in step relation therewith.
  • the separating baffle 70 has a semi-lunar shape and is joined, by a connecting rod 72, to an actuator 73, e.g. pneumatic, which makes the separating baffle 70 oscillate on a plane parallel to the support surface 33, between two positions, rest position "I” and working position "O", respectively.
  • an actuator 73 e.g. pneumatic
  • the separating baffle 70 is introduced between the edges of the upper and the insole in the part corresponding to the working area of the head 66 of the wrinkling group 60.
  • the separating baffle 70 is aimed at limiting the action of the head 66 to the edge 3a of the upper 3, thus avoiding undesired translation of the edge of the insole 1 that could be provoked, due to friction, by the wrinkling of the upper 3 edge.
  • the operator introduces the edges of the upper and of the insole in the respective positions, i.e. the upper arranged on the side where the needle 7 enters the slot and the insole lying on the support surface 33 of the main body 30, making sure that the edges go in abutment against respective upper stops and that the reference signs 4, 5 pre-established as the stitching beginning are aligned with the needle 7 transition point.
  • the machine is started and the operator follows the edges to be stitched introduced into the guide 10 until the peripheral seam 2 is completed.
  • the operator operates the wrinkling group 60, e.g. during the toe stitching; this operation is synchronized with the command of the actuator 73 to bring the separating baffle 70 to the working position "O".
  • the described machine can perform stitch an upper 3 to an insole 1 according to IDEAL or S. CRISPINO method, with only one operation and without using lasts or gluing.
  • the proposed machine allows to change radically the production techniques used so far, allowing to produce, with reasonable cost, shoes which were very expensive before.
  • the above described curved needle 7 can be substituted by a straight needle operated horizontally.
  • the proposed structure of the machine which can use medium and thick thread and which can perform knotted stitch, allows to obtain a upper-insole assembly, which is very strong and impermeable.
  • the obtained seam is very nice and regular, thus it can form an ornament of the shoe, leaving a large choice of the bottom type to be joined the unit upper-insole.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)

Claims (6)

  1. Vorrichtung für das Heften eines Oberteils an eine zugehörige Innensohle, wobei die besagte Vorrichtung folgendes umfaßt:
    eine Längsführung (10), die mit dem vorrichtungskopf verbunden ist;
    eine Nadel (7), die auf einer Fläche, die transversal zur besagtem Führung (10) verläuft, zwischen einer Ruheposition auf einer Seite der Führung (10), die dem besagten Oberteil (3) gegenüberliegt, und einer Heftposition, in der die Nadel zuerst durch den Rand des Oberteils (3) und dann durch den Rand der Innensohle hindurchläuft, bewegbar ist, wobei die besagte Nadel (7) parallel zur besagten Führung (10) in vorgegebenen Schritten hin und her bewegt wird;
    eine Spulenkapsel (8) mit einer Spule mit dem Heftgarn, die neben der besagten Führung (10) auf der Seite angeordnet ist, die der Seite gegenüberliegt, auf der die Nadel (7) in das besagte Oberteil eindringt, wobei die besagte Spulenkapsel (8) derart ausgebildet ist, daß sie mit der besagten Nadel zur Bildung einer Naht zusammenwirkt;
    eine Faltungseinheit (60), die neben der besagten Führung (10) angeordnet und mit einem Kopf (66) ausgerüstet ist, der in einer alternierenden Bewegung senkrecht zur besagten Führung (10) derart angesteuert wird, daß er mit dem Rand (3a) des Oberteils (3) in Eingriff gelangt, und parallel zur besagten Führung (10) derart, daß er den besagten Rand (3a) des Oberteil (3) faltet, wobei die besagte Vorrichtung dadurch gekennzeichnet ist, daß die besagte Führung (10) folgendes umfaßt:
    einen Hauptkörper (30), der integral mit dem vorrichtungskopf ausgebildet ist, wobei der untere Teil des besagten Hauptkörpers (30) eine vertikale Stützoberfläche (33) bildet, die an einer Seite geordnet ist, an der die Nadel (7) in das besagte Oberteil (3) eintritt, und die als Anschlag wirkt, gegen den die untere Fläche der Innensohle (1) zur Anlage kommt;
    Anschlagmittel (40), die in einer justierbaren Position an dem besagten Hauptkörper (30) angeordnet sind und die als oberer Anschlag für das besagte Oberteil (3) und die Innensohle (1) dienen, sowie eine seitliche Führung des besagten Randes (3a) des Oberteils (3), wobei die besagten Anschlagmittel (40) mit der besagten Stützoberfläche (33) bei der Führung der Ränder zusammenwirken und am Übergangspunkt der Nadel (7) nah beieinander angeordnet sind;
    ein Trennblech (70), das gelenkig am besagten Hauptkörper (30) angeordnet ist und das mit einem Stellantrieb (73) verbunden ist, der dieses zwischen zwei Positionen, einer Ruheposition (I) beziehungsweise einer Arbeitsposition (0), hin und her bewegt, wobei die besagte Arbeitsposition (0) in einer Schrittrelation zur Bewegung der besagten Faltungseinheit (60) definiert ist, wobei das besagte Trennblech (70), wenn es sich in der besagten Arbeitsposition befindet, zwischen die Ränder des besagten Oberteils (3) und der Innensohle (1) in den Bereich eingeführt wird, der dem Arbeitsbereich des besagten Kopfes (66) entspricht.
  2. Vorrichtung gemäß Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die besagten Anschlagmittel (40), wenn sie entsprechend einer Technik verwendet werden, bei der die Enden des Oberteils und der Innensohle zueinander ausgerichtet werden, durch eine zinke (41) gebildet werden, die über eine Schraube (42) lösbar an einem ersten Sitz (31) in dem besagten Hauptkörper (30) gehaltert ist, wobei die besagte Zinke (41) in der Höhe justierbar befestigt ist und mit ihrer unteren horizontalen Oberfläche (44) einen gemeinsamen Anschlag für die besagten Ränder bildet.
  3. Vorrichtung gemäß Anspruch 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die besagte zinke (41) mit einem Zahn (45) ausgestattet ist, der an dem Ende angeordnet ist, das den beim Einführen zu heftenden Rändern gegenüberliegt, wobei sich der besagte zahn (45) derart abwärts in Bezug auf die horizontale Oberfläche (44) erstreckt, daß er seitlich den Rand (3a) des besagten Oberteils (3) stützt.
  4. Vorrichtung gemäß Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die besagten Anschlagmittel (40), wenn sie entsprechend einer Technik verwendet werden, bei der der Rand (3a) des Oberteil (3) in Bezug auf den Rand der Innensohle (1) hervorsteht, durch ein Paar Zähne (51, 52) gebildet werden, einem ersten beziehungsweise einem zweiten, die durch zugehörige Schrauben (53, 54) an entsprechenden ersten und zweiten Sitzen (31, 32) am besagtem Hauptkörper (30) lösbar befestigt sind, wobei die besagten Füße (51, 52) unabhängig voneinander in der Höhe justierbar sind und zugehörige horizontale Streifen (51a, 52a) aufweisen, die als Anschläge für den oberen Teil der Innensohle (1) beziehungsweise für den besagten Rand (3a) des Oberteils (3) dienen.
  5. Vorrichtung gemäß Anspruch 4, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß der besagte zweite Fuß (52) eine im wesentlichen vertikale wand (52b) aufweist, die sich vom zugehörigen horizontalen Streifen (52a) seitlich in abwärtiger Richtung erstreckt, um den Rand (3a) des besagten Oberteils (3) seitlich zu stützen.
  6. Vorrichtung gemäß Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die besagte Längsführung (10) ein geknotetes Heften mit zwei Garnen entweder vom mittleren oder vom dicken Typ ermöglicht, die durch die besagte Nadel (7) beziehungsweise die besagte mit der Spulenkapsel (8) verbundene Spule gehalten werden.
EP00114160A 1999-07-16 2000-07-12 Maschine zum Zusammennähen von Schuhschaft und Sohle Expired - Lifetime EP1069225B1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
ITBO990399 1999-07-16
IT1999BO000399A IT1310413B1 (it) 1999-07-16 1999-07-16 Macchina per la cucitura di una tomaia ad una relativa solettasottopiede.

Publications (3)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1069225A2 EP1069225A2 (de) 2001-01-17
EP1069225A3 EP1069225A3 (de) 2002-03-20
EP1069225B1 true EP1069225B1 (de) 2005-03-02

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ID=11344128

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP00114160A Expired - Lifetime EP1069225B1 (de) 1999-07-16 2000-07-12 Maschine zum Zusammennähen von Schuhschaft und Sohle

Country Status (5)

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EP (1) EP1069225B1 (de)
CN (1) CN1131904C (de)
BR (1) BR0002734A (de)
IT (1) IT1310413B1 (de)
TW (1) TW509236U (de)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
TWI601488B (zh) * 2016-11-30 2017-10-11 Zheng-Cong Liang Outsole shoe manufacturing method

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
IT1396131B1 (it) 2009-10-13 2012-11-16 Eredi Di Ciucani Mocassino Machinery Di Ciucani Mario Sistema per il supporto e l'orientamento di una macchina da cucire ad ago curvo.

Family Cites Families (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
IT1192031B (it) 1986-05-07 1988-03-31 Ciucani Mario Macchina automatica perfez. per la cucitura di articoli vari in particolare articoli di pelle
IT1280003B1 (it) * 1995-08-01 1997-12-23 Mario Ciucani Metodo per la cucitura di articoli vari, in particolare articoli di pelle, e macchina per attuare tale metodo.
IT1295172B1 (it) 1997-09-10 1999-05-04 Mario Ciucani Metodo e apparecchiatura per la cucitura della tomaia di calzature a un relativo sottopiede.

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
TWI601488B (zh) * 2016-11-30 2017-10-11 Zheng-Cong Liang Outsole shoe manufacturing method

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
CN1131904C (zh) 2003-12-24
ITBO990399A1 (it) 2001-01-16
BR0002734A (pt) 2001-03-13
IT1310413B1 (it) 2002-02-13
CN1282553A (zh) 2001-02-07
ITBO990399A0 (it) 1999-07-16
EP1069225A3 (de) 2002-03-20
TW509236U (en) 2002-11-01
EP1069225A2 (de) 2001-01-17

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