Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K36/00—Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
  • A61K36/18—Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
  • A61K36/185—Magnoliopsida (dicotyledons)
  • A61K36/48—Fabaceae or Leguminosae (Pea or Legume family); Caesalpiniaceae; Mimosaceae; Papilionaceae
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K36/00—Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
  • A61K36/18—Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
  • A61K36/185—Magnoliopsida (dicotyledons)
  • A61K36/21—Amaranthaceae (Amaranth family), e.g. pigweed, rockwort or globe amaranth
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K36/00—Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
  • A61K36/18—Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
  • A61K36/185—Magnoliopsida (dicotyledons)
  • A61K36/73—Rosaceae (Rose family), e.g. strawberry, chokeberry, blackberry, pear or firethorn
  • A61K36/736—Prunus, e.g. plum, cherry, peach, apricot or almond
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
  • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
  • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
  • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations

Definitions

• the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition
• a cosmetic composition comprising an amaranth extract, softening and hydrating.
• Amaranth is an ornamental plant, family Amaranthaceae, belonging to the order of Chenopodiales with red flowers grouped in long clusters also called “fox tail” or "velvet pass”. Amaranth seeds were used as the main source of food by the Aztecs. Amaranth was also cultivated by the Incas, Mayans and other peoples of the pre-Columbian era. It is used today in India, in Latin American countries and also in a popcorn form and as a breakfast cereal in the United States (crackers, cookies, breads, cakes, pancakes and waffles).
• the whole family of Amaranthaceae represents around 800 species of annual or permanent herbs.
• Amaranth grows in single or multiple branches and can reach 1.50 m high.
• the leaves are simple, with a pungent tip and cuneiform base.
• the very small flowers are colored red-brown, grouped in axial panicle. They have 5 sepals, 5 stamens, 3 carpels.
• the fruit is an achene.
• the seeds are very small, less than 2 mm in diameter.
• the seeds are composed of carbohydrates, 55 to 70%, lipids, 5 to 8%, fibers, 5 to 8%, proteins, 13 to 17%, minerals, 2 to 3%.
• Carbohydrates are made up of simple sugars and starch. Sucrose is the most abundant simple sugar; it is accompanied by raffinose and maltose.
• Starch is the most abundant component. This starch is special and gives amaranth its cosmetic properties. It constitutes very small granules. It is mainly composed of amylopectinc, so is degraded very quickly by amylases.
• the proteins of amaranth seeds are more abundant than in cereals and are mainly composed of soluble proteins: albumins and globulincs. These are easily extracted.
• the amino acid composition of these proteins is very interesting. Indeed, we find a high level of lysine and sulfur amino acids higher than other cereal seeds and the rest of the composition approaches the quality of animal protein.
• the fat content of amaranth seeds has been studied.
• the latter contain 8% on average, higher than cereals (2% in wheat).
• the fatty acid composition highlights the richness in unsaturated fatty acids, AGE, over 70%.
• gamma linolenic acid is present at a concentration greater than 1%.
• the total mineral content (ash) in the seeds of amaranth species is generally higher than in other cereal seeds.
• Properly ground amaranth flour contains 10 times more iron, 7 times more calcium and 4 times more zinc than commercial wheat flour.
• Amaranth seeds have a high concentration of calcium (201-308 mg / 100 g) and iron (15-11 1 mg / 100 g).
• the calcium level of amaranth seeds is higher than that of milk. Few studies provide information on bioavailability or the choice of the best food to provide this calcium in an easily assimilated form.
• Amaranth seeds have a different vitamin concentration than that of wheat. It is higher for riboflavin and ascorbic acid, and lower for thiamine and niacin.
• the present invention therefore relates firstly to an extract of amaranth seeds, useful in dermo-cosmetics for its softening and moisturizing properties.
• This extract can be obtained by extracting the seeds, optionally ground or flattened, with an appropriate solvent, at a temperature between room temperature and the boiling point of the solvent, then by recovery of the liquid phase, which is then treated appropriately to obtain an aqueous solution of amaranth extract.
• This solution can then be stabilized and / or sterilized, or the solvent can be evaporated until a dry, solid, powdery amaranth extract is obtained.
• the appropriate solvent is advantageously chosen from water, C 1 -C 4 aliphatic alcohols, acetone, or mixtures thereof in all proportions, in particular water / acetone or water / alcohol mixtures, in proportions varying from 0 100% acetone or alcohol.
• the weight ratio of amaranth seed / solvent can advantageously be between 1/5 and 1/20.
• the extraction time is preferably between 1 hour and 24 hours.
• the solid / liquid separation is carried out by filtration, spinning or decantation.
• the extraction solvent consists of alcohol and / or acetone
• the liquid extract obtained is treated by the addition of an appropriate quantity of water.
• the organic solvents, alcohol and acetone are then evaporated, in particular under vacuum, until an aqueous solution is obtained.
• This operation of adding an appropriate volume of water may be optional when the extraction solvent is water or a water / alcohol or water / acetone mixture.
• the aqueous solution containing the amaranth extract can be sterilized or stabilized by the addition of a solvent such as propylene glycol, glycerin, transcutol, a microbial preservative, a gelling agent of the polysaccharide type.
• a solvent such as propylene glycol, glycerin, transcutol, a microbial preservative, a gelling agent of the polysaccharide type.
• Drying can also be carried out until a powder is obtained.
• Amaranth extracts are characterized by the presence of a whitish precipitate obtained by the addition of ethanol, a precipitate which reflects the presence of polymer such as starch and proteins. Thin layer chromatography identifies the presence of amino acids and simple sugars. Finally, carbohydrates, simple sugars and starch can be determined by the anthrone reagent technique. Their content is between 1 and 50% compared to the dry matter.
• the present invention also relates to dermo-cosmetic compositions comprising an amaranth extract defined above.
• compositions can be presented in the form of shampoo, gel, foam, cream, etc., for topical application.
• it is a gel useful for showering the body and the hair.
• compositions according to the invention advantageously comprise between 0.5 and 10% by weight of amaranth extract, more advantageously between 1 and 5% by weight.
• the composition according to the invention also comprises the usual components of dermo-cosmetic compositions, such as anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants, stabilizing agents, gelling agents, volumizers, detanglers, viscosants, preservatives, protein extracts , perfumes, dyes, etc.
• dermo-cosmetic compositions such as anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants, stabilizing agents, gelling agents, volumizers, detanglers, viscosants, preservatives, protein extracts , perfumes, dyes, etc.
• the compositions according to the invention comprise:
• compositions according to the invention comprise:. 1 to 5% of amaranth extract,. 5 to 10% of surfactants,. 1 to 4% of protein extracts,. 1 to 3% viscosifiers, and. 65 to 80% water. They can also comprise from 0.1 to 0.5% of superfatting agents, such as for example triglycerides.
• Protein extracts are in particular lipoproteins, glycoproteins or hydrolysates of proteins of animal or vegetable origin.
• Detangling agents are in particular gums of plant origin such as guar gum, or cationic silicone emulsions.
• the viscosifiers are in particular amides such as cocamide diethanolamine.
• the volumizing agents are in particular cationic polymers.
• This activity is sought on an aqueous extract of amaranth titrating 35% in carbohydrate compared to its dry matter.
• the evaluation method is based on an electrical measurement. Water can indeed be considered as an electric dipole capable of driving electricity. The transport of electricity in a given field is proportional to the amount of water present in the stratum corneum.
• the corneometric measurements concerning the amaranth extract were made in eight subjects at the level of the forearm.
• the hydration indices were noted every 5 minutes for the 15 minutes following the application of the amaranth extract and then every 15 minutes for 2 hours 30 minutes.
• the hydrating effects of the amaranth extract appear from the first 15 minutes and remain constant for 2 hours 30 minutes. There is a differential of 25% compared to the control.
• the two groups note the sensations of softness, hydration of the scalp but also the disentangling, the volume and the heaviness of the hair.
• the shampoo containing the amaranth extract is noted softening by "people of the first group and 8 people of the second.
• the sensation of the hydrated scalp is also noted by 7 people of the two groups, the qualities of disentangling and volume being located at same level for both products.
• Oleth 20 (water solubilizer)

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• Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
• Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
• Natural Medicines & Medicinal Plants (AREA)
• Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
• General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
• Public Health (AREA)
• Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
• Mycology (AREA)
• Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
• Microbiology (AREA)
• Biotechnology (AREA)
• Botany (AREA)
• Epidemiology (AREA)
• Medicinal Chemistry (AREA)
• Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
• Alternative & Traditional Medicine (AREA)
• Medical Informatics (AREA)
• Pharmacology & Pharmacy (AREA)
• Birds (AREA)
• Dermatology (AREA)
• Cosmetics (AREA)

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• 1996
  • 1996-03-21 FR FR9603510A patent/FR2746303B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
• 1997
  • 1997-03-20 WO PCT/FR1997/000489 patent/WO1997034579A1/fr not_active Application Discontinuation
  • 1997-03-20 EP EP97915521A patent/EP0893988A1/de not_active Ceased

Non-Patent Citations (1)

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