EP0764438B1 - Composition for permanent waving of human hair containing the non-soapable components of an vegetable oil - Google Patents

Composition for permanent waving of human hair containing the non-soapable components of an vegetable oil Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0764438B1
EP0764438B1 EP96114361A EP96114361A EP0764438B1 EP 0764438 B1 EP0764438 B1 EP 0764438B1 EP 96114361 A EP96114361 A EP 96114361A EP 96114361 A EP96114361 A EP 96114361A EP 0764438 B1 EP0764438 B1 EP 0764438B1
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Prior art keywords
vegetable oil
composition
agent
oil
unsaponifiable
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EP96114361A
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German (de)
French (fr)
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EP0764438A3 (en
EP0764438A2 (en
Inventor
Burkhard Rose
Bernd Dr. Nöcker
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Kao Germany GmbH
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KPSS Kao Professional Salon Services GmbH
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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/63—Steroids; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/542—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
    • A61K2800/5426—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge cationic

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a means for deforming human hair, i. a permanent wave, which has an excellent wave effect, in particular a uniform perm with elastic curls and exceptionally good combability results, however, exerts on the hair structure even with repeated use no harmful effect and causes an expressive hair shine.
  • the permanent wave requires two treatment steps: The reductive cleavage of the cystine disulfide bridges of the hair by the action of a reducing agent and the subsequent neutralization or fixation by the application of an oxidizing agent, whereby the cystine disulfide bridges are restored.
  • the predominantly used reducing agent is still today thioglycolic acid, in particular as an ammonium salt, although many other thio compounds have been proposed for this purpose, but have not prevailed in practice.
  • the thioglycolate-containing compositions are usually used at a pH between 8 and 10, in particular 8.5 to 9.5, which can lead to hair damage on repeated, temporally close lying application.
  • Particularly preferred is a range of about 20 to about 40, especially about 30 wt .-% phytosterol, based on the unsaponifiable components of the vegetable oil or a mixture of vegetable oils used.
  • the unsaponifiable constituents of these oils used according to the invention preferably contain about 30 to about 60, in particular 40 to about 55, z. B. 50 wt .-% triglycerides and other ingredients.
  • Suitable oils whose unsaponifiable constituents are used are, in particular, avocado oil whose unsaponifiable part is known under the trade name Avocadin®, sesame oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, peach kernel oil, wheat germ oil, macadamia nut oil, evening primrose oil, jojoba oil, castor oil or also olive oil or soybean oil.
  • the permanent wave agents according to the invention contain at least one reducing thio compound. Preference is given to thioglycolic acid and thiolactic acid and salts thereof, in particular the ammonium and ethanolamine salts.
  • thio compounds are in particular cysteine or its hydrochloride, monocysteine, cysteamine, N-acetylcysteine, thioglycerol, ethanediol monothioglycolate, 1,2-propylene glycol monothioglycolate (see also WO-A 93/1791 ), 1,3-propanediol monothioglycolate or the isomer mixture resulting therefrom, 1,3-butanediol and 1,4-butanediol monothioglycolate or their isomer mixtures, ethanediol monothiolactate, 1,2-propanediol and 1,3-propanediol monothiolactate and their isomer mixtures, 1 , 3-butanediol and 1,4-butanediol monothiolactate and their isomer mixtures, polyethylene glycol such as di-, tri- and tetra
  • the total content of reducing agents in the compositions according to the invention is usually from 2.5 to about 15% by weight, calculated on free thioglycolic acid as reference substance.
  • the reducing agent-containing perming preparations may, if necessary, have a content of alkalizing agents.
  • the amount depends on the reducing agent and the desired pH of the composition.
  • the reducing agent composition contains from about 0.1 to about 5, more preferably from about 0.5 to about 2.5 percent by weight of the same.
  • Preferred alkalizing agents in the invention are ammonium carbamate, ammonia and / or ammonium (bi) carbonate. It is desirable to adjust a pH in the range between about 6.5 and about 9.5, preferably about 7 to 8.5.
  • the permanent wave agents used according to the invention preferably also contain surfactants. Their proportion is about 0.1 to about 10, especially about 1 to about 5 wt .-%, of the reducing agent-containing composition.
  • the surfactants used in the reducing agent compositions as well as in the fixing agents are preferably the known anionic products which may also be used in combination with nonionic surfactants.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants are especially the known alkyl ether sulfates and carboxylic acids, in particular in the form of their alkali metal salts, and protein-fatty acid condensates.
  • Suitable nonionic surfactants are in particular C 8 -C 18 fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid alkanolamides, amine oxides and especially C 8 -C 18 -alkylpolyglucosides.
  • amphoteric surfactants such as the known betaines and amidobetaines and, in particular in cationic fixations, cationic surfactants such as quaternary ammonium compounds.
  • Another desirable constituent of the reducing agent compositions used according to the invention is a C 3 -C 6 alkanediol or its ethers, in particular mono-C 1 -C 3 -alkyl ethers.
  • Preferred substances in this context are 1,2- and 1,3-propanediol, 1-methoxypropanol (-2), 1-ethoxypropanol (-2), 1,3- and 1,4-butanediol, diethylene glycol and its monomethyl and Monoethyl ether and dipropylene glycol and its monomethyl and monoethyl ether.
  • the proportion of these diols is preferably between 0.5 and 30, preferably about 1 to about 15, in particular about 5 to about 10 wt .-% of the reducing agent composition.
  • C 3 -C 6 alkanediols or their ethers it is additionally possible to use monoalcohols such as ethanol, propanol-1, propanol-2 and also polyalcohols such as glycerol and hexanetriol, ethylcarbitol, benzyl alcohol, benzyloxyethanol and propylene carbonate (4-methyl-1,3-triol). dioxolan-2-one), N-alkylpyrrolidones and urea.
  • monoalcohols such as ethanol, propanol-1, propanol-2 and also polyalcohols such as glycerol and hexanetriol, ethylcarbitol, benzyl alcohol, benzyloxyethanol and propylene carbonate (4-methyl-1,3-triol).
  • dioxolan-2-one N-alkylpyrrolidones and urea.
  • Particularly preferred additional ingredients are anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polymers, especially cationic polymers, preferably in an amount of about 0.25 to about 5, especially about 0.5 to 2.5 wt .-% of the total composition of the waving agent.
  • Suitable polymers are in particular those of the "Polyquaternium” type according to the "CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary", 4th Ed.
  • agents used according to the invention may of course contain all substances customary in permanent waving agents, the detailed list of which is omitted here, and are present as (aqueous) solutions, emulsions, creams, foams, etc.
  • compositions and individual components disclosed therein may also be used within the scope of the present invention.
  • the hair is wound up and applied the reducing agent composition. After about 15 to 30 minutes of exposure and rinsing the fixation with treatment by the usual and well-known from the prior art peroxide or bromate compositions.
  • the permanent undulation was carried out by exposing the curler-wrapped hair to rinsing and rinsing for 20 to 30 minutes with the following composition: hydrogen peroxide 2.5 (wt.%) Cetylstearylalkohol 2.0 Sodium lauryl ether sulfate 1.2 C 12 -C 14 alkyl polyglycol ethers 1.0 Stabilizer, perfume oil qs water @ 100.0
  • Ammonium thioglycolate (61%) 20.0 (% by weight) ammonium 3.5 Cationic polymer (Polyquaternium-2) 0.5 C 8 -C 10 -alkylpolyglucoside (PD: ⁇ 1.4) 0.6 Quaternium-18 0.1 myristyl 0.7 oleyl 0.2 paraffin oil 0.8 bisabolol 0.1 Unsaponifiable constituents of avocado oil ( ⁇ 30% phytosterol; ⁇ 50% triglycerides) 0.4 Ceteareth-25 0.8 PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.6 Laureth-23 0.6 perfume oil 0.3 water @ 100.0 with NH 3 adjusted to pH 8.2
  • cream Ammonium thioglycolate (61%) 18.0 (% by weight) Anmoniumhydrogencarbonat 2.5 Cationic Polymer (Polyquaternium-4) 0.2 Polyoxyethylene (5) stearyl 4.0 Steareth-21 2.0 paraffin oil 3.0 Polyoxyethylene (30) sorbitol 3.0 almond oil 1.0 Unsaponifiable constituents of avocado oil ( ⁇ 30% phytosterol) 1.5 tocopherol 0.5 perfume oil 0.4 water @ 100.0 with NH 3 adjusted to pH 8.8.
  • the partial compositions A and B were separately introduced into a known two-chamber container and combined on the hair just before use by destroying the partition.

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

Agent for the permanent deformation of human hair, contains in aq. base, at least one reducing thio cpd. and 0.01-2.5 wt.%, w.r.t. the total compsn. of the agent, of unsaponifiable constituents of at least one vegetable oil contg. at least 20 wt.% phytosterol. The agent pref. contains 0.05-1 wt.% unsaponifiable constituents of at least one vegetable oil contg. at least 25 wt.% phytosterol. The unsaponifiable constituents of the vegetable oil also contain at least 50 wt.% triglycerides. The agent contains the unsaponifiable fraction of avocado oil. The agent contains 0.25-5 wt.%, wrt. the total compsn. of the agent, of at least one cationic polymer.

Description

Die vorliegende Erfindung betrifft ein Mittel zum Verformen von menschlichen Haaren, d.h. ein Dauerwellmittel, das eine ausgezeichnete Wellwirkung besitzt, insbesondere eine gleichmäßige Dauerwelle mit elastischen Locken und außergewöhnlich guter Kämmbarkeit ergibt, jedoch auf die Haarstruktur auch bei mehrfacher Anwendung keinerlei schädigende Wirkung ausübt und einen ausdrucksvollen Haarglanz bewirkt.The present invention relates to a means for deforming human hair, i. a permanent wave, which has an excellent wave effect, in particular a uniform perm with elastic curls and exceptionally good combability results, however, exerts on the hair structure even with repeated use no harmful effect and causes an expressive hair shine.

Die Dauerwellung erfordert bekanntlich zwei Behandlungsschritte:
Die reduktive Spaltung der Cystin-Disulfidbrücken des Haares durch Einwirkung eines Reduktionsmittels und die anschließende Neutralisierung bzw. Fixierung durch Aufbringung eines Oxidationsmittels, wodurch die Cystin-Disulfidbrücken wiederhergestellt werden.The permanent wave requires two treatment steps:
The reductive cleavage of the cystine disulfide bridges of the hair by the action of a reducing agent and the subsequent neutralization or fixation by the application of an oxidizing agent, whereby the cystine disulfide bridges are restored.

Das überwiegend eingesetzte Reduktionsmittel ist auch heute noch Thioglykolsäure, insbesondere als Ammoniumsalz, obwohl zahlreiche andere Thio-Verbindungen für diesen Zweck vorgeschlagen wurden, die sich jedoch in der Praxis nicht durchgesetzt haben.The predominantly used reducing agent is still today thioglycolic acid, in particular as an ammonium salt, although many other thio compounds have been proposed for this purpose, but have not prevailed in practice.

Die Thioglykolat enthaltenden Zusammensetzungen werden üblicherweise bei einem pH-Wert zwischen 8 und 10, insbesondere 8,5 bis 9,5, eingesetzt, was bei wiederholter, zeitlich nahe zusammenliegender Anwendung zu Haarschädigungen führen kann.The thioglycolate-containing compositions are usually used at a pH between 8 and 10, in particular 8.5 to 9.5, which can lead to hair damage on repeated, temporally close lying application.

Man hat bereits versucht, diese Nachteile durch die Schaffung sogenannter "saurer Dauerwellmittel" zu überwinden, deren Anwendungs-pH-Wert bei etwa 6,8 bis 7,8, d.h. um den Neutralpunkt herum, liegt. Der in diesen Zusammensetzungen meistbenutzte reduzierende Wirkstoff ist der Thioglykolsäuremonoglycerinester. Es hat sich jedoch gezeigt, daß diese Substanz bei manchen Benutzerinnen hautreizend, insbesondere sensibilisierend, wirkt, so daß auch diese Lösung nicht optimal ist.Attempts have been made to overcome these disadvantages by the creation of so-called "acid permanent wave agents" whose application pH is at about 6.8 to 7.8, i. around the neutral point. The reducing agent most commonly used in these compositions is the thioglycolic acid monoglycerol ester. However, it has been shown that this substance in some users skin irritant, especially sensitizing, acts, so that this solution is not optimal.

Es wurde nunmehr gefunden, daß diese Nachteile überwunden werden können und ein Dauerwellmittel auf Basis mindestens einer reduzierenden Thioverbindung, das eine gleichmäßige Wellwirkung besitzt und die Haarstruktur in keiner Weise schädigt, sondern dem dauergewellten Haar Glanz und eine außergewöhnlich gute Kämmbarkeit verleiht, dadurch hergestellt werden kann, wenn man diesem Mittel 0,01 bis 2,5 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die Gesamtmenge des Mittels, der unverseifbaren Bestandteile mindestens eines pflanzlichen Öls zusetzt, die mindestens 20, vorzugsweise mindestens 25 Gew.-% Phytosterole, enthalten.It has now been found that these drawbacks can be overcome and a permanent waving agent based on at least one reducing thio compound, which has a uniform wave effect and damages the hair structure in any way, but gives the permed hair shine and an exceptionally good combing, can be produced thereby when this agent 0.01 to 2.5 wt .-%, in particular 0.05 to 1 wt .-%, based on the total amount of the agent, of the unsaponifiable constituents of at least one vegetable oil added which at least 20, preferably at least 25 wt .-% phytosterols.

Besonders bevorzugt ist ein Bereich von etwa 20 bis etwa 40, insbesondere etwa 30 Gew.-% Phytosterol, bezogen auf die unverseifbaren Bestandteile des pflanzlichen Öls oder eines eingesetzten Gemisches pflanzlicher Öle.Particularly preferred is a range of about 20 to about 40, especially about 30 wt .-% phytosterol, based on the unsaponifiable components of the vegetable oil or a mixture of vegetable oils used.

Die erfindungsgemäß verwendeten unverseifbaren Bestandteile dieser Öle enthalten vorzugsweise etwa 30 bis etwa 60, insbesondere 40 bis etwa 55, z. B. 50 Gew.-% Triglyceride sowie weitere Bestandteile.The unsaponifiable constituents of these oils used according to the invention preferably contain about 30 to about 60, in particular 40 to about 55, z. B. 50 wt .-% triglycerides and other ingredients.

Geeignete Öle, deren unverseifbare Bestandteile eingesetzt werden, sind insbesondere Avocadoöl, dessen unverseifbarer Teil unter der Handelsbezeichnung Avocadin® bekannt ist, Sesamöl, Sonnenblumenöl, Mandelöl, Pfirsichkernöl, Weizenkeimöl, Macadamianußöl, Nachtkerzenöl, Jojobaöl, Ricinusöl oder auch Oliven- bzw. Sojaöl.Suitable oils whose unsaponifiable constituents are used are, in particular, avocado oil whose unsaponifiable part is known under the trade name Avocadin®, sesame oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, peach kernel oil, wheat germ oil, macadamia nut oil, evening primrose oil, jojoba oil, castor oil or also olive oil or soybean oil.

Die erfindungsgemäßen Dauerwellmittel enthalten mindestens eine reduzierende Thioverbindung. Bevorzugt sind Thioglykolsäure und Thiomilchsäure sowie deren Salze, insbesondere die Ammonium- und Ethanolaminsalze.The permanent wave agents according to the invention contain at least one reducing thio compound. Preference is given to thioglycolic acid and thiolactic acid and salts thereof, in particular the ammonium and ethanolamine salts.

Weitere einsetzbare Thioverbindungen sind insbesondere Cystein bzw. dessen Hydrochlorid, Monocystein, Cysteamin, N-Acetylcystein, Thioglycerin, Ethandiolmonothioglykolat, 1,2-Propylenglykolmonothioglykolat (vgl. auch WO-A 93/1791 ), 1,3-Propandiolmonothioglykolat bzw. das daraus resultierende Isomerengemisch, 1,3-Butandiol- und 1,4-Butandiolmonothioglykolat bzw. deren Isomerengemische, Ethandiolmonothiolactat, 1,2-Propandiol- und 1,3-Propandiolmonothiolactat und deren Isomerengemische, 1,3-Butandiol- und 1,4-Butandiolmonothiolactat und deren Isomerengemische, Polyethylenglykol- wie Di-, Tri- und Tetraethylenglykolmonothioglykolate und -monothiolactate, Polypropylenglykol- wie Di-, Tri- und Tetrapropylenglykolmonothiolactate und -monothioglykolate, Glycerinmonothiolactate und weitere Thiosäuren und deren Ester sowie Gemische derselben.Further usable thio compounds are in particular cysteine or its hydrochloride, monocysteine, cysteamine, N-acetylcysteine, thioglycerol, ethanediol monothioglycolate, 1,2-propylene glycol monothioglycolate (see also WO-A 93/1791 ), 1,3-propanediol monothioglycolate or the isomer mixture resulting therefrom, 1,3-butanediol and 1,4-butanediol monothioglycolate or their isomer mixtures, ethanediol monothiolactate, 1,2-propanediol and 1,3-propanediol monothiolactate and their isomer mixtures, 1 , 3-butanediol and 1,4-butanediol monothiolactate and their isomer mixtures, polyethylene glycol such as di-, tri- and tetraethylene glycol monothioglycolates and monothiolactates, polypropylene glycol such as di-, tri- and tetrapropylene glycol monothiolactates and monothioglycolates, glycerol monothiolactates and other thioacids and their esters and mixtures thereof.

Der Gesamtgehalt an Reduktionsmitteln in den erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen beträgt üblicherweise 2,5 bis etwa 15 Gew.-%, berechnet auf freie Thioglykolsäure als Bezugssubstanz.The total content of reducing agents in the compositions according to the invention is usually from 2.5 to about 15% by weight, calculated on free thioglycolic acid as reference substance.

Die Reduktionsmittel enthaltenden Dauerwellpräparate können, falls erforderlich, einen Gehalt an Alkalisierungsmitteln aufweisen. Die Menge ist abhängig vom reduzierenden Wirkstoff und dem angestrebten pH-Wert der Zusammensetzung. Vorzugsweise enthält die Reduktionsmittel-Zusammensetzung etwa 0,1 bis etwa 5, insbesondere etwa 0,5 bis etwa 2,5 Gew.-% desselben.The reducing agent-containing perming preparations may, if necessary, have a content of alkalizing agents. The amount depends on the reducing agent and the desired pH of the composition. Preferably, the reducing agent composition contains from about 0.1 to about 5, more preferably from about 0.5 to about 2.5 percent by weight of the same.

Bevorzugte Alkalisierungsmittel im Rahmen der Erfindung sind Ammoniumcarbamat, Ammoniak und/oder Ammonium(bi)carbonat. Es wird die Einstellung eines pH-Wertes im Bereich zwischen etwa 6,5 und etwa 9,5, vorzugsweise etwa 7 bis 8,5, angestrebt.Preferred alkalizing agents in the invention are ammonium carbamate, ammonia and / or ammonium (bi) carbonate. It is desirable to adjust a pH in the range between about 6.5 and about 9.5, preferably about 7 to 8.5.

Die erfindungsgemäß zum Einsatz kommenden Dauerwellmittel enthalten vorzugsweise auch Tenside. Deren Anteil liegt bei etwa 0,1 bis etwa 10, insbesondere etwa 1 bis etwa 5 Gew.-%, der das Reduktionsmittel enthaltenden Zusammensetzung.The permanent wave agents used according to the invention preferably also contain surfactants. Their proportion is about 0.1 to about 10, especially about 1 to about 5 wt .-%, of the reducing agent-containing composition.

Sowohl bei den in den Reduktionsmittel-Zusammensetzungen als auch bei den in den Fixiermitteln eingesetzten Tensiden handelt es sich vorzugsweise um die bekannten anionaktiven Produkte, die gegebenenfalls auch in Kombination mit nichtionischen Tensiden zum Einsatz gelangen.The surfactants used in the reducing agent compositions as well as in the fixing agents are preferably the known anionic products which may also be used in combination with nonionic surfactants.

Geeignete anionische Tenside sind besonders die bekannten Alkylethersulfate und -carbonsäuren, insbesondere in Form ihrer Alkalisalze, sowie Eiweiß-Fettsäure-Kondensate.Suitable anionic surfactants are especially the known alkyl ether sulfates and carboxylic acids, in particular in the form of their alkali metal salts, and protein-fatty acid condensates.

Geeignete nichtionische Tenside sind insbesondere C8-C18-Fettalkoholpolyglykolether, Fettsäurepolyglykolester, Fettsäurealkanolamide, Aminoxide und vor allem C8-C18-Alkylpolyglukoside.Suitable nonionic surfactants are in particular C 8 -C 18 fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid alkanolamides, amine oxides and especially C 8 -C 18 -alkylpolyglucosides.

Es können auch amphotere Tenside wie die bekannten Betaine und Amidobetaine sowie, insbesondere in kationischen Fixierungen, kationaktive Tenside wie quaternäre Ammoniumverbindungen eingesetzt werden.It is also possible to use amphoteric surfactants such as the known betaines and amidobetaines and, in particular in cationic fixations, cationic surfactants such as quaternary ammonium compounds.

Ein weiterer wünschenswerter Bestandteil der erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Reduktionsmittel-Zusammensetzungen ist ein C3-C6-Alkandiol bzw. dessen Ether, insbesondere Mono-C1-C3-alkylether.Another desirable constituent of the reducing agent compositions used according to the invention is a C 3 -C 6 alkanediol or its ethers, in particular mono-C 1 -C 3 -alkyl ethers.

Bevorzugte Substanzen sind in diesem Zusammenhang 1,2- und 1,3-Propandiol, 1-Methoxypropanol(-2), 1-Ethoxypropanol(-2), 1,3- und 1,4-Butandiol, Diethylenglykol und dessen Monomethyl- und Monoethylether sowie Dipropylenglykol und dessen Monomethyl- und Monoethylether.Preferred substances in this context are 1,2- and 1,3-propanediol, 1-methoxypropanol (-2), 1-ethoxypropanol (-2), 1,3- and 1,4-butanediol, diethylene glycol and its monomethyl and Monoethyl ether and dipropylene glycol and its monomethyl and monoethyl ether.

Der Anteil dieser Diole liegt vorzugsweise zwischen 0,5 und 30, vorzugsweise etwa 1 bis etwa 15, insbesondere etwa 5 bis etwa 10 Gew.-% der Reduktionsmittel-Zusammensetzung.The proportion of these diols is preferably between 0.5 and 30, preferably about 1 to about 15, in particular about 5 to about 10 wt .-% of the reducing agent composition.

Neben den C3-C6-Alkandiolen bzw. deren Ethern können zusätzlich auch Monoalkohole wie Ethanol, Propanol-1, Propanol-2 sowie Polyalkohole wie Glycerin und Hexantriol, Ethylcarbitol, Benzylalkohol, Benzyloxyethanol sowie Propylencarbonat (4-Methyl-1,3-dioxolan-2-on), N-Alkylpyrrolidone und Harnstoff Verwendung finden.In addition to the C 3 -C 6 alkanediols or their ethers, it is additionally possible to use monoalcohols such as ethanol, propanol-1, propanol-2 and also polyalcohols such as glycerol and hexanetriol, ethylcarbitol, benzyl alcohol, benzyloxyethanol and propylene carbonate (4-methyl-1,3-triol). dioxolan-2-one), N-alkylpyrrolidones and urea.

Besonders bevorzugte zusätzliche Bestandteile sind anionische, kationische, nichtionische und amphotere Polymere, insbesondere kationische Polymere, vorzugsweise in einer Menge von etwa 0,25 bis etwa 5, insbesondere etwa 0,5 bis 2,5 Gew.-% der Gesamtzusammensetzung des Wellmittels.Particularly preferred additional ingredients are anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polymers, especially cationic polymers, preferably in an amount of about 0.25 to about 5, especially about 0.5 to 2.5 wt .-% of the total composition of the waving agent.

Geeignete Polymere sind insbesondere solche des Typs "Polyquaternium" nach dem "CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary", 4th Ed.Suitable polymers are in particular those of the "Polyquaternium" type according to the "CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary", 4th Ed.

Die erfindungsgemäß eingesetzten Mittel können selbstverständlich alle in Dauerwellmitteln üblichen Stoffe enthalten, auf deren detaillierte Aufzählung hier verzichtet wird, und als (wäßrige) Lösungen, Emulsionen, Cremes, Schäume etc. vorliegen.The agents used according to the invention may of course contain all substances customary in permanent waving agents, the detailed list of which is omitted here, and are present as (aqueous) solutions, emulsions, creams, foams, etc.

Zur Vermeidung von Wiederholungen wird hierzu auf den Stand der Technik verwiesen, wie er beispielsweise in " Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry", Vol. A12 (1986), S. 588 bis 591 , sowie insbesondere in der Monographie von K. Schrader, "Grundlagen und Rezepturen der Kosmetika", 2. Auflage (1989, Hüthig-Verlag), S. 823 bis 840 , sowie in dem Übersichtsartikel von D. Hollenberg et al. in "Seifen-Öle-Fette-Wachse" 117 (1991), S. 81 - 87 , beschrieben ist.To avoid repetition, reference is made to the state of the art in this regard, as described, for example, in US Pat. Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry ", Vol. A12 (1986), pages 588 to 591 , as well as in particular in the monograph of K. Schrader, "Basics and Formulations of Cosmetics", 2nd edition (1989, Hüthig-Verlag), p. 823-840 , as well as in the review article of D. Hollenberg et al. in "Soap-Oils-Fats-Wachse" 117 (1991), pp. 81-87 , is described.

Die dort geoffenbarten Zusammensetzungen und Einzelbestandteile, auf die ausdrücklich Bezug genommen wird, können auch im Rahmen der vorliegenden Erfindung verwendet werden.The compositions and individual components disclosed therein may also be used within the scope of the present invention.

Falls erwünscht, kann vor dem Auftrag des Reduktionsmittels noch ein Vorbehandlungsmittel appliziert werden, wie es beispielsweise in der DE-A 37 40 926 beschrieben ist. Nach dem Aufbringen dieses Vorbehandlungsmittels wird das Haar aufgewickelt und die Reduktionsmittel-Zusammensetzung aufgetragen. Nach etwa 15- bis 30-minütiger Einwirkung und Spülung erfolgt die Fixierung mit Behandlung durch die üblichen und aus dem Stand der Technik hinreichend bekannten Peroxid- oder Bromat-Zusammensetzungen.If desired, before the application of the reducing agent nor a pretreatment agent can be applied, as for example in the DE-A 37 40 926 is described. After this Applying this pretreatment agent, the hair is wound up and applied the reducing agent composition. After about 15 to 30 minutes of exposure and rinsing the fixation with treatment by the usual and well-known from the prior art peroxide or bromate compositions.

Ebenso kann selbstverständlich eine an sich bekannte Zwischenbehandlung zwischen Reduktions- und Neutralisationsphase erfolgen.Likewise, of course, a known intermediate treatment between reduction and neutralization phase can take place.

Die folgenden Beispiele dienen der Illustration der Erfindung.The following examples serve to illustrate the invention.

Beispiel 1example 1

Lösungsolution Ammoniumthioglykolat (61%-ig)Ammonium thioglycolate (61%) 21,60 (Gew.-%)21.60 (wt%) Ammoniumhydrogencarbonatammonium 5,005.00 Chlorophyllinchlorophyllin 0,020.02 Proteinhydrolysatprotein hydrolyzate 0,400.40 Cocoamidopropylbetaincocoamidopropyl 0,500.50 1,2-Propandiol1,2-propanediol 2,002.00 Laureth-23Laureth-23 1,001.00 Oleth-5Oleth-5 0,500.50 Avocadin®Avocadin® 0,200.20 Parfumölperfume oil 0,400.40 Wasserwater @ 100,00@ 100.00 mit NH3 eingestellt auf pH 8,5.with NH 3 adjusted to pH 8.5.

Die Dauerwellung erfolgte durch 20- bis 30-minütige Einwirkung auf das auf Lockenwickler gewickelte Haar, Ausspülen und anschließende Fixierung mit der folgenden Zusammensetzung: Wasserstoffperoxid 2,5 (Gew.-%) Cetylstearylalkohol 2,0 Natriumlaurylethersulfat 1,2 C12-C14-Alkylpolyglykolether 1,0 Stabilisator, Parfumöl q.s. Wasser @ 100,0 The permanent undulation was carried out by exposing the curler-wrapped hair to rinsing and rinsing for 20 to 30 minutes with the following composition: hydrogen peroxide 2.5 (wt.%) Cetylstearylalkohol 2.0 Sodium lauryl ether sulfate 1.2 C 12 -C 14 alkyl polyglycol ethers 1.0 Stabilizer, perfume oil qs water @ 100.0

Es wurde ein glänzendes, elastisch verformtes, leicht kämmbares Haar erhalten; eine Hautreizung wurde auch bei wiederholter Anwendung nicht beobachtet.
Weglassen des Avocadins führte zu einer weniger elastischen, etwas stumpfen Dauerwelle mit verschlechterter Kämmbarkeit, was insbesondere im Halbseitenversuch deutlich erkennbar war.It was obtained a shiny, elastically deformed, easily combed hair; Skin irritation was not observed even after repeated use.
Omitting the avocadin led to a less elastic, somewhat blunt perm with worsened combability, which was particularly evident in the half-side test.

Beispiel 2Example 2

Gelgel Ammoniumthioglykolat (61%-ig)Ammonium thioglycolate (61%) 20,0 (Gew.-%)20.0 (% by weight) Ammoniumhydrogencarbonatammonium 3,53.5 Kationisches Polymer (Polyquaternium-2)Cationic polymer (Polyquaternium-2) 0,50.5 C8-C10-Alkylpolyglucosid (P.D.: ∼ 1,4)C 8 -C 10 -alkylpolyglucoside (PD: ~ 1.4) 0,60.6 Quaternium-18Quaternium-18 0,10.1 Myristylalkoholmyristyl 0,70.7 Oleylalkohololeyl 0,20.2 Paraffinölparaffin oil 0,80.8 Bisabololbisabolol 0,10.1 Unverseifbare Bestandteile des Avocadoöls (∼ 30 % Phytosterol; ∼ 50 % Triglyceride)Unsaponifiable constituents of avocado oil (~ 30% phytosterol; ~ 50% triglycerides) 0,40.4 Ceteareth-25Ceteareth-25 0,80.8 PEG-40 hydriertes RicinusölPEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0,60.6 Laureth-23Laureth-23 0,60.6 Parfumölperfume oil 0,30.3 Wasserwater @ 100,0@ 100.0 mit NH3 eingestellt auf pH 8,2with NH 3 adjusted to pH 8.2

Es wurde eine ähnlich strukturierte Dauerwellung wie mit der Zusammensetzung nach Beispiel 1 erhalten.It was a similar structured Dauerwellung as obtained with the composition of Example 1.

Beispiel 3Example 3

Cremecream Ammoniumthioglykolat (61%-ig)Ammonium thioglycolate (61%) 18,0 (Gew.-%)18.0 (% by weight) AnmoniumhydrogencarbonatAnmoniumhydrogencarbonat 2,52.5 Kationisches Polymer (Polyquaternium-4)Cationic Polymer (Polyquaternium-4) 0,20.2 Polyoxyethylen(5)stearylstearatPolyoxyethylene (5) stearyl 4,04.0 Steareth-21Steareth-21 2,02.0 Paraffinölparaffin oil 3,03.0 Polyoxyethylen(30)sorbitolPolyoxyethylene (30) sorbitol 3,03.0 Mandelölalmond oil 1,01.0 Unverseifbare Bestandteile des Avocadoöls (∼ 30 % Phytosterol)Unsaponifiable constituents of avocado oil (~ 30% phytosterol) 1,51.5 Tocopherolacetattocopherol 0,50.5 Parfumölperfume oil 0,40.4 Wasserwater @ 100,0@ 100.0 mit NH3 eingestellt auf pH 8,8.with NH 3 adjusted to pH 8.8.

Beispiel 4Example 4

Zweiphasen-Produkt (Neutral-Dauerwelle)Two-phase product (neutral perm) Teil A:Part A: Ammoniumhydrogencarbonatammonium 4,5 (g)4.5 (g) Ethanolethanol 0,50.5 Diethylenglykolmonoethyletherdiethylene 1,01.0 Kationisches Polymer (Polyquaternium-22)Cationic Polymer (Polyquaternium-22) 1,01.0 Laureth-23Laureth-23 1,01.0 Oleth-5Oleth-5 0,50.5 Unverseifbare Bestandteile des Avocadoöls (∼ 30 % Phytosterol; ∼ 50 % Triglyceride)Unsaponifiable constituents of avocado oil (~ 30% phytosterol; ~ 50% triglycerides) 0,20.2 Wasserwater @ 72,2@ 72.2 eingestellt mit NH3 auf pH 8,4adjusted with NH 3 to pH 8.4 Teil B:Part B: Ammoniumthioglykolat, 70%-igAmmonium thioglycolate, 70% 18,5 (g)18.5 (g) Thiomilchsäurethiolactic 2,02.0 Cysteinhydrochlorid x H2OCysteine hydrochloride x H 2 O 3,03.0 1,2-Propandiol1,2-propanediol 0,50.5 Wasserwater @ 27,8@ 27.8 eingestellt mit NH3 auf pH 5,55.adjusted with NH 3 to pH 5.55.

Die Teilzusammensetzungen A und B wurden getrennt in ein bekanntes Zweikammerbehältnis eingebracht und unmittelbar vor der Anwendung auf das Haar durch Zerstören der Trennwand vereinigt.The partial compositions A and B were separately introduced into a known two-chamber container and combined on the hair just before use by destroying the partition.

Es wurde ein Produkt mit einem pH-Wert von 7,45 erhalten.A product with a pH of 7.45 was obtained.

Nach üblicher Dauerwellbehandlung, Zwischenbehandlung und Fixierung wurde eine elastische Dauerwellung erreicht. Das behandelte Haar zeigte einen hellen Glanz und ließ sich ausgezeichnet kämmen.After usual perming treatment, intermediate treatment and fixation an elastic Dauerwellung was achieved. The treated hair had a bright shine and was combed perfectly.

Hautirritationen oder -sensibilisierungen traten nicht auf.Skin irritation or sensitization did not occur.

Claims (5)

  1. Composition for permanent waving of human hair, comprising at least one reducing thio compound and from 0.01% to 2.5% by wt., calculated to the total composition, of the unsaponifiable ingredients of at least one vegetable oil having a phytosterol content of at least 20% by wt.
  2. Composition according to claim 1, comprising from 0.05% to 1% by wt. of the unsaponifiable ingredients of at least one vegetable oil having a total phytosterol content of at least 25% by wt.
  3. Composition according to claim 1 and (or) 2, comprising the unsaponifiable ingredients of the vegetable oil containing at least 50% by wt. triglycerides.
  4. Composition according to claim 1, containing the unsaponifiable fraction of avocado oil.
  5. Composition according to one or more of claims 1 to 4, containing from 0.25% to 5% by wt., calculated to the total composition, of at least one cationic polymer.
EP96114361A 1995-09-19 1996-09-07 Composition for permanent waving of human hair containing the non-soapable components of an vegetable oil Expired - Lifetime EP0764438B1 (en)

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DE19534723A DE19534723C1 (en) 1995-09-19 1995-09-19 Non-irritant permanent waving agent for hair
DE19534723 1995-09-19

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DE19643587A1 (en) * 1996-10-22 1998-04-23 Beiersdorf Ag Antiadhesive sterols and sterol derivatives
JP3645409B2 (en) * 1997-10-30 2005-05-11 ホーユー株式会社 Permanent wave composition
JP3645408B2 (en) * 1997-10-30 2005-05-11 ホーユー株式会社 Permanent wave composition
DE19930769A1 (en) * 1999-07-03 2000-03-16 Schwarzkopf Gmbh Hans Process for permanent deformation of keratinous fibers and agents
JP4101437B2 (en) * 2000-05-31 2008-06-18 株式会社コーセー Gel cosmetic
DE10109730A1 (en) * 2001-02-28 2002-09-05 Schwarzkopf Gmbh Hans Process for permanent deformation of keratinous fibers and agents
JP2003040741A (en) * 2001-05-21 2003-02-13 Hoyu Co Ltd Hair-deforming agent, agent for permanent wave, frizzy hair-correcting agent, article for permanent wave, and article for correcting the frizzy hair
DE10347487A1 (en) * 2003-09-30 2005-04-21 Kneipp Werke Kneipp Mittel Zen Cosmetic or dermatological composition for topical use
DE102007033093A1 (en) * 2007-07-13 2009-01-15 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Agent with anti-irritating agent

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FR2041594A5 (en) * 1969-04-30 1971-01-29 Expanscience
JPS63316714A (en) * 1987-06-18 1988-12-26 Lion Corp Hair cosmetic
DE3740926A1 (en) * 1987-12-03 1989-06-15 Wella Ag Hair-treatment composition and method for permanent shaping of hair
FR2679448B1 (en) * 1991-07-23 1993-10-15 Oreal AZETROPE MIXTURE OF 2-HYDROXY-2-PROPYL THIOGLYCOLATE AND 2-HYDROXY-2-METHYL-ETHYL THIOGLYCOLATE, PROCESS FOR THE PRODUCTION THEREOF, AND USE THEREOF IN A PERMANENT HAIR DEFORMATION PROCESS.
FR2702773B1 (en) * 1993-03-19 1995-06-16 Deslog PROCESS FOR THE PREPARATION OF FRACTIONS OF FAT MATERIALS OF PLANT ORIGIN ENRICHED IN INSAPONIFIABLE MATERIALS.

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JPH09110654A (en) 1997-04-28
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DE59611487D1 (en) 2008-12-18
EP0764438A2 (en) 1997-03-26
ATE413160T1 (en) 2008-11-15
DE19534723C1 (en) 1997-01-02

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