EP0545146B1 - Method of fashioned knitting of Intarsia-Jacquard articles - Google Patents

Method of fashioned knitting of Intarsia-Jacquard articles Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0545146B1
EP0545146B1 EP92119682A EP92119682A EP0545146B1 EP 0545146 B1 EP0545146 B1 EP 0545146B1 EP 92119682 A EP92119682 A EP 92119682A EP 92119682 A EP92119682 A EP 92119682A EP 0545146 B1 EP0545146 B1 EP 0545146B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
intarsia
inlaid
knitted
yarns
knitting
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
EP92119682A
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German (de)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP0545146A1 (en
Inventor
Thomas Dipl.-Ing. Stoll
Wolfgang Rempp
Uwe Fleiner
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
H Stoll GmbH and Co KG
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H Stoll GmbH and Co KG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by H Stoll GmbH and Co KG filed Critical H Stoll GmbH and Co KG
Publication of EP0545146A1 publication Critical patent/EP0545146A1/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0545146B1 publication Critical patent/EP0545146B1/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/12—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
    • D04B1/126—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material with colour pattern, e.g. intarsia fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
    • D04B1/108—Gussets, e.g. pouches or heel or toe portions

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a method for form-knitting inlaid jacquard goods on a two-bed flat knitting machine.
  • the invention has for its object to provide a method with which exposed inlaid threads are avoided even in reduction areas of inlaid jacquard.
  • the object is achieved according to the invention with the method steps evident from the characterizing part of the main claim.
  • the inlaid threads are given an inclination direction which allows them to be knitted over them.
  • the inlaid inlaid threads can be integrated by hanging loops over the inlaid threads.
  • the inlaid inlaid threads can also be integrated by forming a row of safety nets over the inlaid inlaid threads, for which purpose thread guides are used that have not been retracted beforehand.
  • the subsequent readjustment of at least some of the thread guides fitted with inlaid threads can generally be carried out in the opposite direction to the entry direction.
  • a line of safety nets can also be formed over the quickly laid inlaid threads with the help of an additional thread guide, which is expediently equipped with a basic thread.
  • the inlaid threads can also advantageously be processed together with a base thread. The process steps listed above ensure an inlaid jacquard fabric in which no exposed threads appear on the back of the knitted fabric.
  • the drawing shows schematically the adjustment of four thread guides 1-4 equipped with inlaid threads and one thread guide 0 equipped with a basic thread when knitting an inlaid area of varying width, which is knitted here after a continuously repeating repeat.
  • the boundary of the inlaid area 10 is indicated by a border line 11.
  • the form knitting begins at the bottom left with the thread guide 0 equipped with a basic thread and the inlaid thread guide 1.
  • the thread guides 2, 3 and 4 which are also equipped with inlaid threads, are presented except for a favorable starting position in the direction of knitting.
  • the thread guide 1 is advanced to a new starting position at the knitting height 12, while with the beginning of the fourth row of knitting the thread guide 2 is used together with the basic thread guide 0 over two rows of knitting up to the knitting height 13. Then the thread guide 2 is also advanced to a new starting position, and the next row of knitted fabrics is knitted with the inlaid thread guide 3 together with the basic thread guide 0. Subsequently, the inlaid thread guide 4 is used for the first time in the same manner and as can be seen from the drawing; then the inlaid thread guides 1 to 4 a second time. A maximum inlaid area length 15 is then reached at the knitted fabric height 14, and the inlaid area length is to be reduced up to the knitted fabric height 16.
  • the intarsia thread guides 1 to 3 become one except for one later
  • the position to be reached again is moved into the knitted area, and then the inlaid threads, which have been laid briskly, are connected or bound to the previously formed knitted fabric by means of the inlaid thread guide 4 and the basic thread guide 0, which form a safety net row with the help of needles of both needle beds of the flat knitting machine.
  • the retracted inlaid thread guides 1 to 3 and also the inlaid thread guide 4 are readjusted to a starting position that is favorable for the further course of the knitting, moved back here.
  • the area of the inlaid jacquard fabric 10, designated 20 and reaching up to the knitted fabric height 16, is then manufactured with alternating use of the inlaid thread guides 1 to 4 - again together with the basic thread guide 0. Then, in a region 21, the intarsia area is again reduced as initially. A knitted area 21 then follows again in accordance with the report.
  • the adjustment of the thread guides into different positions is indicated schematically in the knitted area 21.
  • the mentioned safety net row and the knitted image of the inlaid area 10 are not shown.
  • the row of safety nets can be formed in a conventional manner, it also being possible for there to be greater distances between the needles of the two needle beds that are used.
  • Different stitch and / or tuck sequences can also be provided for the inlaid thread of the thread guide 4 and the basic thread of the thread guide 0. Stitches and handles can appear in the inlaid knit and the needles of the needle beds are selected according to the jacquard using a pattern device.

Description

Die Erfindung betrifft ein Verfahren zum Formstricken von Intarsien-Jacquardware auf einer zweibettigen Flachstrickmaschine.The invention relates to a method for form-knitting inlaid jacquard goods on a two-bed flat knitting machine.

Beim Formstricken von Intarsien-Jacquardware tritt auch der Fall ein, daß sich die Breite von Intarsienbereichen verändert und hierbei eine Minderung dieser Bereiche erforderlich wird. Dadurch erhöhen sich die Probleme mit auf der Rückseite der Ware freiliegenden Intarsienfäden.When knitting inlaid jacquard fabrics, the width of the inlaid areas changes and a reduction in these areas becomes necessary. This increases the problems with inlaid threads exposed on the back of the goods.

Der Erfindung liegt die Aufgabe zugrunde, ein Verfahren zu schaffen, mit welcher freiliegende Intarsienfäden auch in Minderungsbereichen einer Intarsien-Jacquardware vermieden werden.The invention has for its object to provide a method with which exposed inlaid threads are avoided even in reduction areas of inlaid jacquard.

Die gestellte Aufgabe wird erfindungsgemäß mit den aus dem kennzeichnenden Teil des Hauptanspruches ersichtlichen Verfahrensschritten gelöst. Durch das Verfahren der Fadenführer an den Richtungswechselstellen und die Nachverstellung der Fadenführer nach dem Einbinden der beim Verfahren flott gelegten Intarsienfäden in das Gestrick bekommen die Intarsienfäden eine Neigungsrichtung, die es erlaubt, über sie hinwegzustricken. Das Einbinden der flott gelegten Intarsienfäden kann durch Umhängen von Maschen über die Intarsienfäden erfolgen. Das Einbinden der flott gelegten Intarsienfäden kann aber auch durch die Bildung einer Fangnetzreihe über die flott gelegten Intarsienfäden erfolgen, wozu Fadenführer eingesetzt werden, die nicht vorher eingefahren worden sind. Die anschließende Nachverstellung mindestens eines Teiles der mit Intarsienfäden bestückten Fadenführer kann in der Regel entgegengesetzt zur Einfahrrichtung erfolgen.The object is achieved according to the invention with the method steps evident from the characterizing part of the main claim. Through the movement of the thread guides at the change of direction and the readjustment of the thread guides after incorporating the inlaid threads laid briskly in the process into the knitted fabric, the inlaid threads are given an inclination direction which allows them to be knitted over them. The inlaid inlaid threads can be integrated by hanging loops over the inlaid threads. The inlaid inlaid threads can also be integrated by forming a row of safety nets over the inlaid inlaid threads, for which purpose thread guides are used that have not been retracted beforehand. The subsequent readjustment of at least some of the thread guides fitted with inlaid threads can generally be carried out in the opposite direction to the entry direction.

Die Bildung einer Fangnetzreihe über die flott gelegten Intarsienfäden kann auch mit Hilfe eines zusätzlichen Fadenführers erfolgen, der zweckmäßig mit einem Grundfaden bestückt ist. Auch können bei dem Verfahren vorteilhafterweise die Intarsienfäden jeweils zusammen mit einem Grundfaden verarbeitet werden. Mit den vorstehend aufgeführten Verfahrensschritten wird eine Intarsien-Jacquardware gewährleistet, bei welcher an keiner Stelle freiliegende Fäden auf der Rückseite des Gestrickes erscheinen.A line of safety nets can also be formed over the quickly laid inlaid threads with the help of an additional thread guide, which is expediently equipped with a basic thread. In the method, the inlaid threads can also advantageously be processed together with a base thread. The process steps listed above ensure an inlaid jacquard fabric in which no exposed threads appear on the back of the knitted fabric.

Nachfolgend wird ein Ausführungsbeispiel des Verfahrens anhand der beiliegenden Zeichnung näher erläutert.An exemplary embodiment of the method is explained in more detail below with reference to the accompanying drawing.

Die Zeichnung zeigt schematisch die Verstellung von vier mit Intarsienfäden bestückten Fadenführern 1-4 und eines mit einem Grundfaden bestückten Fadenführers 0 beim Stricken eines Intarsienbereiches wechselnder Breite, der hier nach einem sich laufend wiederholenden Rapport gestrickt wird. Die Begrenzung des Intarsienbereiches 10 ist durch eine Umrandungslinie 11 angedeutet. Mit dem Formstricken wird links unten mit dem mit einem Grundfaden bestückten Fadenführer 0 und dem Intarsienfadenführer 1 begonnen. Die ebenfalls mit Intarsienfäden bestückten Fadenführer 2, 3 und 4 sind bis auf eine günstige Ausgangsposition in Gestrickbildungsrichtung vorgestellt. Nach der Bildung von drei Gestrickreihen wird der Fadenführer 1 auf der Gestrickhöhe 12 in eine neue Ausgangsposition vorgefahren, während mit Beginn der vierten Gestrickreihe der Fadenführer 2 zusammen mit dem Grundfadenführer 0 über zwei Gestrickreihen bis zur Gestrickhöhe 13 eingesetzt wird. Dann wird auch der Fadenführer 2 in eine neue Ausgangsposition vorgefahren, und die nächste Gestrickreihe wird mit dem Intarsienfadenführer 3 zusammen mit dem Grundfadenführer 0 gestrickt. Anschließend wird in gleicher und aus der Zeichnung ersichtlichen Weise auch der Intarsienfadenführer 4 ein erstes Mal eingesetzt; anschließend die Intarsienfadenführer 1 bis 4 auch noch ein zweites Mal. Dann ist auf der Gestrickhöhe 14 eine maximale Intarsienbereichslänge 15 erreicht, und bis zur Gestrickhöhe 16 soll eine Minderung der Intarsienbereichslänge erfolgen.The drawing shows schematically the adjustment of four thread guides 1-4 equipped with inlaid threads and one thread guide 0 equipped with a basic thread when knitting an inlaid area of varying width, which is knitted here after a continuously repeating repeat. The boundary of the inlaid area 10 is indicated by a border line 11. The form knitting begins at the bottom left with the thread guide 0 equipped with a basic thread and the inlaid thread guide 1. The thread guides 2, 3 and 4, which are also equipped with inlaid threads, are presented except for a favorable starting position in the direction of knitting. After the formation of three rows of knitting, the thread guide 1 is advanced to a new starting position at the knitting height 12, while with the beginning of the fourth row of knitting the thread guide 2 is used together with the basic thread guide 0 over two rows of knitting up to the knitting height 13. Then the thread guide 2 is also advanced to a new starting position, and the next row of knitted fabrics is knitted with the inlaid thread guide 3 together with the basic thread guide 0. Subsequently, the inlaid thread guide 4 is used for the first time in the same manner and as can be seen from the drawing; then the inlaid thread guides 1 to 4 a second time. A maximum inlaid area length 15 is then reached at the knitted fabric height 14, and the inlaid area length is to be reduced up to the knitted fabric height 16.

Auf der Gestrickhöhe 14 werden beim Rücklauf des Schlittens der hier eingesetzten zweibettigen Flachstrickmaschine die Intarsienfadenführer 1 bis 3 bis auf eine später wieder zu erreichende Stellung in den Gestrickbereich eingefahren, und anschließend werden die hierbei flott gelegten Intarsienfäden mittels des Intarsienfadenführers 4 und des Grundfadenführers 0, die eine Fangnetzreihe mit Hilfe von Nadeln beider Nadelbetten der Flachstrickmaschine bilden, an das bisher gebildete Formgestrick an- oder eingebunden. Anschließend werden die eingefahrenen Intarsienfadenführer 1 bis 3 und auch der Intarsienfadenführer 4 in eine für den weiteren Strickverlauf günstige Ausgangsstellung nachverstellt, hier zurückgefahren. Es wird dann der mit 20 bezeichnete und bis zur Gestrickhöhe 16 reichende Bereich der Intarsien-Jacquardware 10 mit wechselndem Einsatz der Intarsienfadenführer 1 bis 4 - jeweils wieder zusammen mit dem Grundfadenführer 0 - gefertigt. Anschließend wird in einem Bereich 21 wieder wie anfänglich eine Verkleinerung des Intarsienbereiches vorgenommen. Anschließend folgt rapportgemäß dann wieder ein Gestrickbereich 21.When the carriage of the two-bed flat knitting machine used here returns, the intarsia thread guides 1 to 3 become one except for one later The position to be reached again is moved into the knitted area, and then the inlaid threads, which have been laid briskly, are connected or bound to the previously formed knitted fabric by means of the inlaid thread guide 4 and the basic thread guide 0, which form a safety net row with the help of needles of both needle beds of the flat knitting machine. Then the retracted inlaid thread guides 1 to 3 and also the inlaid thread guide 4 are readjusted to a starting position that is favorable for the further course of the knitting, moved back here. The area of the inlaid jacquard fabric 10, designated 20 and reaching up to the knitted fabric height 16, is then manufactured with alternating use of the inlaid thread guides 1 to 4 - again together with the basic thread guide 0. Then, in a region 21, the intarsia area is again reduced as initially. A knitted area 21 then follows again in accordance with the report.

In der Zeichnung ist in dem Gestrickbereich 21 schematisch das Verstellen der Fadenführer in unterschiedliche Stellungen angedeutet. Die erwähnte Fangnetzreihe und das Gestrickbild des Intarsienbereiches 10 sind nicht dargestellt. Die Fangnetzreihe kann auf herkömmliche Weise gebildet werden, wobei auch größere Abstände zwischen den zum Einsatz kommenden Nadeln der beiden Nadelbetten liegen können. Auch können für den Intarsienfaden des Fadenführers 4 und den Grundfaden des Fadenfühers 0 unterschiedliche Maschen-und/oder Fanghenkelfolgen vorgesehen sein. Im Intarsiengestrick können Maschen und Henkel auftreten, und die Nadeln der Nadelbetten werden jacquardgemäß mittels einer Mustereinrichtung ausgewählt.In the drawing, the adjustment of the thread guides into different positions is indicated schematically in the knitted area 21. The mentioned safety net row and the knitted image of the inlaid area 10 are not shown. The row of safety nets can be formed in a conventional manner, it also being possible for there to be greater distances between the needles of the two needle beds that are used. Different stitch and / or tuck sequences can also be provided for the inlaid thread of the thread guide 4 and the basic thread of the thread guide 0. Stitches and handles can appear in the inlaid knit and the needles of the needle beds are selected according to the jacquard using a pattern device.

Claims (5)

  1. Method for the fully fashioned knitting of Intarsia-Jacquard fabric on a rib flat knitting machine, characterised in that, at the changes of direction in the Intarsia regions (10) of the fully fashioned knitted fabric, at least the plurality of all of the yarn guides (1-4) with Intarsia yarns being used are moved into a position to be reached again later, that the Intarsia yarns floating when the yarn guides (1-3) are moved in are then knitted into the knitted fabric and that the yarn guides (1-3) moved in are then moved at least partially into another starting position advantageous for continued knitting.
  2. Method according to claim 1, characterised in that the floating Intarsia yarns are knitted in by transferring stitches via the Intarsia yarns.
  3. Method according to claim 1, characterised in that the floating Intarsia yarns are knitted in by forming a first tucking course via the floating Intarsia yarns using at least one remaining yarn guide (1).
  4. Method according to claim 3, characterised in that the at least one remaining yarn guide guides a ground yarn for the fully fashioned knitted fabric.
  5. Method according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterised in that the Intarsia yarns are each processed together with a ground yarn, even when a first tucking course is formed.
EP92119682A 1991-12-06 1992-11-19 Method of fashioned knitting of Intarsia-Jacquard articles Expired - Lifetime EP0545146B1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE4140282 1991-12-06
DE4140282A DE4140282A1 (en) 1991-12-06 1991-12-06 METHOD FOR KNITTING INTARSIA JACQUARDWARE

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0545146A1 EP0545146A1 (en) 1993-06-09
EP0545146B1 true EP0545146B1 (en) 1996-09-25

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Family Applications (1)

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EP92119682A Expired - Lifetime EP0545146B1 (en) 1991-12-06 1992-11-19 Method of fashioned knitting of Intarsia-Jacquard articles

Country Status (5)

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US (1) US5275022A (en)
EP (1) EP0545146B1 (en)
JP (1) JP2694495B2 (en)
DE (2) DE4140282A1 (en)
ES (1) ES2094266T3 (en)

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DE4228408A1 (en) * 1992-08-26 1994-03-03 Stoll & Co H Process for the production of a form-fitting, one-piece flat knitted fabric for a piece of clothing with sleeves
IT1271974B (en) * 1993-03-05 1997-06-10 Benetton Spa PROCEDURE FOR THE CREATION OF A COMPLETE CLOTHING ON A TWO-FRONT STRAIGHT MACHINE WITH TONGUE NEEDLES
DE4330071C2 (en) * 1993-09-06 1996-08-01 Schieber Universal Maschf Process for knitting intarsia patterns on flat knitting machines
GB2325941B (en) * 1997-06-03 2001-08-22 Gen Motors Corp A knitted cover
US5899095A (en) * 1998-01-21 1999-05-04 Liberty Fabrics Jacquard fabric and method of manufacturing
JP4163130B2 (en) * 2004-02-17 2008-10-08 株式会社島精機製作所 Intarsia pattern knitting method and knitted fabric, knit design device, and knitting program
DE102004058959A1 (en) * 2004-12-08 2006-06-14 Falke Kg Knitted stocking
DE502007005757D1 (en) * 2007-06-15 2011-01-05 Stoll H Gmbh & Co Kg Method of incorporating a knitting thread catch and / or end
JP5828723B2 (en) * 2011-09-09 2015-12-09 株式会社島精機製作所 Knitting method and apparatus for editing knitting data by flat knitting machine
US10609966B2 (en) 2017-09-29 2020-04-07 Lululemon Athletica Canada Inc. Pressure-distributing undergarment
CN108179535B (en) * 2018-02-09 2020-06-23 福建睿能科技股份有限公司 Computerized flat knitting machine, knitting method thereof and device with storage function
DE102020214449B4 (en) * 2020-11-17 2023-11-09 Adidas Ag Double-knit top with functional insert yarns

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US2330445A (en) * 1941-08-12 1943-09-28 Davenport Woosley Proc Corp Knitted fabric
US3641788A (en) * 1968-09-04 1972-02-15 Aisin Seiki Automatic pattern stitch device in a hand knitting machine
GB1299444A (en) * 1969-05-06 1972-12-13 Courtaulds Ltd Knitting method and knitted garment
GB1409292A (en) * 1972-02-02 1975-10-08 Courtaulds Ltd Knitting method
DE3322392A1 (en) * 1983-06-22 1985-01-10 SIPRA Patententwicklungs- und Beteiligungsgesellschaft mbH, 7470 Albstadt Process and flat knitting machine for the production of knitted articles having a plurality of knit regions
JPS60162846A (en) * 1984-02-01 1985-08-24 安田　敏明 Connected triple knitted fabric and knitting method
JPS60162845A (en) * 1984-02-01 1985-08-24 安田　敏明 Connected triple knitted fabric and knitting method
DE3606821A1 (en) * 1985-08-19 1987-02-26 Stoll & Co H Flat bed knitter - has adjustable limit stops on guide rails for the yarn guides to set position without affecting the control program
DE3813504A1 (en) * 1988-04-22 1989-11-02 Stoll & Co H METHOD FOR PRODUCING INTARSIA KNITTED PIECES AND FLAT-KNITTING MACHINE FOR IMPLEMENTING THE METHOD
JPH0390665A (en) * 1989-01-06 1991-04-16 Ikenaga:Kk Pattern making control device of filling knitting machine

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
DE59207246D1 (en) 1996-10-31
EP0545146A1 (en) 1993-06-09
JP2694495B2 (en) 1997-12-24
DE4140282A1 (en) 1993-06-09
US5275022A (en) 1994-01-04
JPH05247805A (en) 1993-09-24
ES2094266T3 (en) 1997-01-16

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