EP0547332B1 - Warp knitted fabric, warp knitting machine and method of manufacture - Google Patents

Description

The invention relates to a warp knitted fabric which has differently structured areas both in the weft direction and in the warp direction, as well as to a warp knitting machine and to a method for producing such a knitted fabric according to the preamble of claim 1 or 8 or 14 .

From DE-OS 40 01 621 a warp knitted fabric of this type is known, which has a fabric base in tricot and a pattern by pile threads. For this purpose, the warp knitting machine used to produce it has at least one, preferably two jacquard laying bars, which, in conjunction with a longitudinally displaceable pile board bar, ensures that the pile threads either form pile loops or are flatly integrated into the basic fabric.

A warp-knitted fabric is known from the LIBA brochure "ESJ-Electronic Sectional Jacquard", in which a fabric base in a tricot layer interacts with a pattern-forming fabric layer. This drape is through generated two laying bars, the needle pitch is twice as large as the knitting needle pitch, so that their laying needles are alternately assigned to the knitting needle lanes. The patterning is carried out by the fact that one of the bars is jacquard-controlled and in this way the cloth is either displaced by a needle pitch or shortened to put on the jersey by needle displacement. The first alternative leads to an openwork pattern, which is undesirable for many fabrics, while the second alternative has a thread consumption which is so reduced compared to the laying of the fabric that considerable differences in tension arise in the goods.

According to DE-OS 17 85 138, a warp knitted fabric with a plastic pattern can be achieved. A reason is created here with a first laying rail, which works with full thread retraction. The pattern formation serves two further laying rails, which work empty with a fillet feeder 1 full 1 and are supplied by a common warp beam. In a row of stitches, they carry out underlays of different sizes, for example a tricot layer and a satin layer, these layers being changed so that each of these laying rails carries out the same number of different layers within a repeat.

The invention has for its object to provide a warp knitted fabric in both the weft direction and in the warp direction, the surface structure of which is determined partly by cloth layers and partly by other layers and whose pattern-forming threads are not exposed to inadmissible tensions even when they are from a common one Warp beam can be pulled off. Furthermore, the task is to specify a warp knitting machine and a method for producing this warp knitted fabric.

With regard to warp knitted fabrics, this object is achieved by the features of claim 1. The sequence of different layers from the fringe, tricot, cloth, satin and velvet group allows a variety of surface structures to be created that differ from that of the cloth layer and also offer additional variation options due to their change. Because the selection is made in such a way that the average length of the underlay in predetermined repeats is approximately equal to the underlay length when the fabric is laid, in the areas thus formed and in the areas in which a fabric is laid, the same thread consumption results on average despite different layers . Insofar as different thread tensions result from the different layings, they balance each other out within a repeat.

According to claim 2, the pattern can be formed by more than two different surface structures, because different combinations can be formed from said group of layers.

Preferred embodiments result from claims 3 to 5, which enable different patterns while maintaining the underlay average length.

Claim 6 describes a further embodiment of the surface structure. If the pattern thread system consists of two sub-systems, the threads of which are laid differently, crossovers result that are clearly distinguishable from the fabric. As a result of the cross-hairs, there is no one-sided warping of the warp knitted fabric in the pattern areas.

The basic thread system according to claim 7 is processed in tricot laying with particular advantage. One therefore receives a charmeuse product consisting of jersey and cloth, in which the cloth side is patterned.

With regard to the warp knitting machine, the object is achieved by the features of claim 8. By using two pattern-forming Jacquard-Le-racks, it is possible in a particularly simple manner, taking into account the demands made (patterning in the weft and in the warp direction; common warp beam for the pattern thread system; avoiding excessive tension in the warp knitted fabric) to produce patterned warp knitted fabrics. Due to the bar control devices, the jacquard laying bars each experience a basic offset that repeats in each repeat, which determines a surface structure of the goods. By displacing selected jacquard laying needles, other surface structures can be created. In particular, the two jacquard laying bars can also be used to produce crossing thread layers of the pattern-forming threads, as is often preferred.

According to claim 9, the laying needles of one jacquard laying bar can be displaced in the opposite direction to the laying needles of the other jacquard laying bar. This makes it possible, under otherwise identical conditions, to carry out the greatest possible number of different layings with jacquard needles which can only be displaced on one side and which have a higher working accuracy than layers which can be displaced on both sides. A symmetrical control of the laying needles is also possible.

With a large part of the selectable laying combinations, neighboring needles belonging to different jacquard laying bars are activated simultaneously. Therefore, the simplification of the jacquard control device characterized in claim 10 is recommended.

According to claim 11, it is not assumed that there is a basic offset which causes the fabric to be laid, but rather a basic offset which is formed in each repeat by the same number of tricot and satin layers, alone or in combination with fabric layers. This has the advantage that, by differently controlling laying needles which can only be displaced on one side, in addition to a cloth laying, further laying suitable for patterning can be produced. Preferred embodiments are given in claims 12 and 13.

In terms of method, the object is achieved by the features of claim 14. The process steps lead to the desired warp knitted fabric.

The development according to claim 15 makes it possible to generate more than two layers by means of jacquard control, for which claims 16 and 17 indicate preferred exemplary embodiments.

Fig. 1

eine schematische Darstellung einer erfindungsgemäßen Kettenwirkmaschine,

Fig. 2

eine schematische Ansicht der Jacquard-Legenadeln und der Wirknadeln,

Fig. 3

eine abgewandelte Form der Jacquard-Steuervorrichtung,

Fig. 4

in schematischer Darstellung eine Draufsicht auf die erfindungsgemäße Kettenwirkware,

Fig. 5

in einem ersten Ausführungsbeispiel ein Legungsbild für das Grund-Fadensystem und die beiden Teilsysteme des Muster-Fadensystems beim Grundversatz der beiden Jacquard-Legebarren,

Fig.6

ein aus Fig. 5 abgeleitetes Legungsbild der beiden Teilsysteme des Muster-Fadensystems bei einem ersten Verdrängungsprogramm, durch das Tuchlegung erzeugt wird,

Fig. 7

ein Legungsbild entsprechend Fig. 6 gemäß einem zweiten Verdrängungsprogramm,

Fig. 8

ein Legungsbild entsprechend Fig. 6 gemäß einem dritten Verdrängungsprogramm,

Fig. 9

in einem zweiten Ausführungsbeispiel ein Legungsbild für die beiden Teilsysteme des Muster-Fadensystems beim Grundversatz der beiden Jacquard-Legebarren,

Fig.10

ein aus Fig. 9 abgeleitetes Legungsbild der beiden Teilsysteme des Muster-Fadensystems bei einem ersten Verdrängungsprogramm, durch das Tuchlegung erzeugt wird,

Fig.11

ein Legungsbild entsprechend Fig. 10 gemäß einem zweiten Verdrängungsprogramm,

Fig.12

in einem dritten Ausführungsbeispiel ein Legungsbild für die beiden Teilsysteme des Muster-Fadensystems beim Grundversatz der beiden Jacquard-Legebarren und

Fig.13

ein Legungsbild gemäß eines zweiten Verdrängungsprogamms für das Ausführungsbeispiel der Fig. 12.

The invention is explained below with reference to a preferred embodiment shown in the drawing. Show it:

Fig. 1

1 shows a schematic representation of a warp knitting machine according to the invention,

Fig. 2

a schematic view of the jacquard laying needles and the knitting needles,

Fig. 3

a modified form of the jacquard control device,

Fig. 4

a schematic representation of a top view of the warp knitted fabric according to the invention,

Fig. 5

in a first exemplary embodiment, a layout image for the basic thread system and the two subsystems of the pattern thread system with the basic offset of the two jacquard laying bars,

Fig. 6

5 shows a laying pattern derived from FIG. 5 of the two subsystems of the pattern thread system in a first displacement program, by means of which cloth laying is generated,

Fig. 7

6 according to a second displacement program,

Fig. 8

6 according to a third displacement program,

Fig. 9

in a second exemplary embodiment, an laying pattern for the two subsystems of the pattern thread system with the basic offset of the two jacquard laying bars,

Fig. 10

9 shows a laying pattern derived from FIG. 9 of the two subsystems of the pattern thread system in a first displacement program, by means of which cloth laying is generated,

Fig. 11

10 according to a second displacement program,

Fig. 12

in a third exemplary embodiment, an laying pattern for the two subsystems of the pattern thread system with the basic offset of the two jacquard laying bars and

Fig. 13

a layout image according to a second displacement program for the embodiment of FIG. 12.

A warp knitting machine 1 has a knitting needle bar 2 with knitting needles 3, which cooperate with sliding needles 4, and inclusion knock-off boards 5. There are three laying bars, namely two jacquard laying bars L2 and L3 for laying one of two subsystems of a pattern thread system, and a laying bar L1 for laying a basic thread system. The laying bars are displaced in the longitudinal direction in a conventional manner by bar control devices 6, 7 and 8 according to a predetermined pattern. Mirror discs, sample chains or the like are used as control devices. The laying needles 9 are firmly attached to the laying bar L1. They have the same pitch as the knitting needles 3. The pitch of the laying needles 10 and 11 of the laying bars L3 and L2 is twice as large as the knitting needle pitch. The laying needles 10 and 11 are at a gap (FIG. 2) and can be displaced in the opposite direction by one knitting needle pitch in each case by displacement boards 13 and 14 (cf. arrows 13 'and 14' in FIG. 2). The displacement boards are actuated via harness cords 15 and 16 and are triggered by corresponding jacquard control devices 17 and 18 in accordance with a predefined displacement program.

According to the modification according to FIG. 3, a common jacquard control device 117 can also be used, which has individual control elements 118, for example electromagnets, which each have two harness cords 115, 116 or the like. act, which lead to displacement boards of various jacquard laying bars.

The threads 19 of the basic thread system fed to the knitting point via the laying needles 9 are of a warp beam 20 withdrawn, the threads 21 and 22 of the two subsystems of the pattern thread system fed via the laying needles 10 and 11 are drawn off from a common warp beam 23.

The warp knitting machine of FIG. 1 uses the threads 19 to create a coherent fabric base, which in particular is laid continuously as a jersey. The threads 21 and 22 can be laid in base areas B as a cloth, as shown in FIG. 4. In the pattern areas M1, M2 and M3 modified lay-up combinations are used, but which have the same thread consumption as the cloth lay-up in each repeat. When using jersey as the basic fabric, there is an interesting patterned charmeuse knitwear.

The structure of the knitted fabric and its production are explained in more detail in connection with the layout images of FIGS. 5 to 8. The base region B is generated according to FIG. 6. In the pattern areas, M1 corresponds to FIG. 5, M2 to FIG. 7 and M3 to FIG. 8.

The basic jersey fabric laid by the laying bar L1 is only shown in FIG. 5 and is not repeated in the remaining figures. FIG. 5, which corresponds to the pattern area M1, shows that in a repeat R comprising eight working cycles, the jacquard laying bar L3 carries out a basic offset, which has the following course: jersey-cloth-jersey-jersey-cloth-satin-satin cloth. In a similar way, the Jacquard laying bar L2 sets in the basic offset: satin-cloth-cloth-satin-cloth-leotard-leotard cloth. There are therefore two tricot layers, four cloth layers and two satin layers in each repeat. The average backing is therefore just as large as that of the cloth.

As shown in FIG. 6, which relates to the base area B, in the first, fifth, sixth and eighth working cycle of each repeat R, all the laying needles acting in the base area are displaced in accordance with the arrows 13 'for the bar L3 and 14' for the bar L2. This leads to the continuous covering shown.

In the embodiment of FIG. 7, which relates to the pattern area M2, the displacement according to the arrows 13 'and 14' takes place in the second, third, fourth and seventh working cycle of the repeat R. The laying pattern L3 results in the following laying: Cloth-cloth-fringe-cloth-velvet-velvet cloth. For the bar L2 the laying is: velvet-cloth-cloth-velvet-cloth-fringe-fringe. There are two fringe layers, four cloth layers and two velvet layers. Again, the average backing is the same as that for the backing.

8, which relates to the pattern area M3, the displacement of all associated laying needles takes place according to the arrows 13 'and 14' in the third, sixth, seventh and eighth working cycle. This leads to the following laying for the Jacquard laying bar L3: tricot-satin-satin-tricot-tricot-satin-satin-tricot and for the jacquard-laying bar L2 to the laying: satin-tricot-tricot-satin-satin-tricot- Leotard satin. Here too, the average length of the underlay is equal to that of the fabric.

As a comparison of the layering pictures shows, if the basic offset contains jersey and satin layers, it is very easy to change not only to cloth layers, but also to fringe and velvet layers. The additional use of cloth layers for the basic offset enables a higher number of pattern modifications. It also makes the transition from fringe to easier Velvet and vice versa. It is also noteworthy that the layings are made in such a way that all stitches of the basic fabric are covered with stitches of the pattern thread system in the middle of the pattern areas. It goes without saying that, in the case of a different basic offset, other combinations or sequences of layings are also possible.

Another exemplary embodiment is illustrated in FIGS. 9 to 11. Here, the jacquard laying bars L2 and L3 are designed so that their laying needles can be pushed ver in the same direction according to the arrows 13 'and 14'. The laying needles are arranged one behind the other in the non-displaced position. The two layings each begin in the same needle alley; a needle remains in between. Now the threads 21, 22 do not form stitches common to all stitches of the basic fabric. However, this is not necessary because the goods reason is self-contained.

The basic offset of FIG. 9 provides the following laying for the jacquard laying bar L2: satin-cloth-cloth-satin-cloth-leotard-leotard cloth. In contrast, the L3 jacquard laying bar places one after the other: jersey-cloth-cloth-jersey-cloth-satin-satin cloth. This results in a first pattern area M1.

10 shows the base area characterized by a uniform cloth pattern. The laying needles of one or the other jacquard laying bar are displaced in each case.

FIG. 11 shows a second pattern area which corresponds to FIG. 8 and can therefore be referred to as pattern area M3. Here too, by selectively actuating the laying needles of a jacquard laying bar, repetition in each repeat R becomes Pattern is generated in which the average length of the underlay for each repeat is approximately equal to the underlay length for the fabric layer.

In the third exemplary embodiment of FIGS. 12 and 13, the basic offset according to FIG. 12 provides two identical partial reports R1 and R2. The jacquard laying bar L2 satin cloth-tricot cloth and the jacquard laying bar L3 tricot cloth-satin cloth lay in each sub-report. Again, the bottom can be laid with the laying bar L1 as a jersey. This results in a pattern area M1.

The base area B is not illustrated. It arises analogously to FIG. 6 by lengthening the tricot layer and shortening the satin layer. This means that the laying needles of the jacquard laying bars L2 and L3 are displaced in opposite directions in the first and last step of each partial repeat R1 or R2.

A pattern area M2 is illustrated in FIG. 13. Here it is shown how, by differently displacing the jacquard-laying needles in the two repeats R1 and R2, an eight-line repeat is created in which the jacquard-laying bar L2 velvet-cloth-tricot-satin-satin-tricot-fringe-cloth and the jacquard- Laying bar L3 fringe cloth satin leotard leotard satin velvet cloth sets.

In addition to the displacement program for the base area B and the pattern area M2, a third displacement program for generating a pattern area M3 is also possible, which corresponds to FIG. 8. This means that two tricot layers and two satin layers alternate with each other. For this it is necessary in each sub-report in the third and on the fourth line, to push the laying needles of the Jacquard laying bars L2 and L3 in opposite directions.

Claims (18)

1. Warp knitted fabric with differently structured areas in both weft and warp directions comprising at least one ground thread system to form a fabric ground and one pattern thread system characterised in that the pattern thread system comprises threads (21,22) that are knitted in warp direction one after the other in basic areas (B) by 2 x 1 laps and in patterning areas (M1, M2, M3) in such a succession of different laps from a group consisting of pillar stitch, tricot lap, 2 x 1 lap, 3 x 1 lap and velvet lap that the average length of the underlaps in predetermined repeats (R) is almost dual to the underlap length for the 2 x 1 lap.
2. Warp knitted fabric according to claim 1 wherein some pattering areas (M1, M2, M3) have different laps.
3. Warp knitted fabric according to claim 1 or claim 2 wherein the repeat (R) comprises an equal number of tricot and 3 x 1 laps.
4. Warp knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3 wherein the repeat (R) comprises an equal number of pillar stitches and velvet laps.
5. Warp knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4 wherein the repeat (R) comprises also 2 x 1 laps.
6. Warp knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 5 wherein the pattern thread system consists of two partial systems the threads (21,22) of which are differently lapped to form common loops with all loops of the ground fabric in the midst of the patterning areas (M1, M2, M3).
7. Warp knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 6 wherein the ground thread system is knitted in tricot laps.
8. Warp knitting machine for producing the warp knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 7 comprising one knitting needle bar (2) and at least one guide bar (L1) forming the fabric ground and two pattern forming jacquard guide bars (L2, L3) associated with a bar control device (6,7) for the displacement of the bars and a jacquard control device (16, 17; 117) for the displacement of the guide needles characterised by a common warp beam (23) supplying the threads (21,22) of a pattern thread system to both jacquard guide bars, the needle pitch of the jacquard guide bars (L2, L3) being twice as large as the knitting needle pitch and the bar control devices being laid out to allow lapping of the threads of the pattern thread system by means of the jacquard control devices alternatively in 2 x 1 laps or as a succession of different laps from a group consisting of pillar stitch, tricot lap, 2 x 1 lap, 3 x 1 lap and velvet lap in such a way that the average length of the underlaps in predetermined repeats (R) is almost equal to the underlap length for the 2 x 1 lap.
9. Warp knitting machine according to claim 8 wherein the guide needles (10) of one jacquard guide bar (L3) are displaceable in opposite direction of the guide needles (11) of the other jacquard guide bar (L2).
10. Warp knitting machine according to claim 9 wherein the adjacent guide needles (10,11) belonging to different jacquard guide bars (L2, L3) are controllable in pairs by a common jacquard control element (118).
11. Warp knitting machine according to any one of claims 8 to 10 wherein the bar control devices (6, 7) effect a basic displacement formed in each repeat (R) by an equal number of tricot and 3 x 1 laps alone or in combination with 2 x 1 laps.
12. Warp knitting machine according to claim 11 wherein the jacquard control devices (17,18) comprise, apart from a first displacement program effecting only 2 x 1 laps in each repeat (R), at least one more displacement program effecting within the repeat a different succession of different laps as for the basic displacement.
13. Warp knitting machine according to claim 12 wherein the different succession is formed by the same number of pillar stitches and velvet laps alone or in combination with 2 x 1 laps.
14. Method of producing a warp knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 7 wherein a fabric ground is formed by means of a ground thread system characterised in that a pattern thread system is formed partly by 2 x 1 laps partly by a succession of different laps from a group consisting of pillar stitch, tricot lap, 2 x 1 lap, 3 x 1 lap and velvet lap in such a way that the average length of the underlaps in predetermined repeats (R) is almost equal to the underlap length for the 2 x 1 lap.
15. Method according to claim 14 wherein two partial systems, as pattern thread system, are supplied through jacquard control, the basic displacement for both partial systems in each repeat being formed by the same number of pillar stitches and velvet laps alone or in combination with 2 x 1 laps.
16. Method according to claim 15 wherein, apart from a repeat consisting only of 2 x 1 laps, a repeat with a different succession of different laps as for the basic displacement is formed by jacquard control.
17. Method according to claim 16 wherein a repeat is formed by jacquard control comprising a succession of an equal number of pillar stitches and velvet laps alone or in combination with 2 x 1 laps.
18. Method according to any one of claims 14 to 17 wherein the fabric ground is lapped as tricot.

Images