EP0452393A1 - Process for heterogenously prefading items made of dyed cotton. - Google Patents
Process for heterogenously prefading items made of dyed cotton.Info
- Publication number
- EP0452393A1 EP0452393A1 EP90901828A EP90901828A EP0452393A1 EP 0452393 A1 EP0452393 A1 EP 0452393A1 EP 90901828 A EP90901828 A EP 90901828A EP 90901828 A EP90901828 A EP 90901828A EP 0452393 A1 EP0452393 A1 EP 0452393A1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- cellulases
- washing
- articles
- heterogeneous
- dyed cotton
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
Links
Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B11/00—Treatment of selected parts of textile materials, e.g. partial dyeing
- D06B11/0093—Treatments carried out during or after a regular application of treating materials, in order to get differentiated effects on the textile material
- D06B11/0096—Treatments carried out during or after a regular application of treating materials, in order to get differentiated effects on the textile material to get a faded look
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C11—ANIMAL OR VEGETABLE OILS, FATS, FATTY SUBSTANCES OR WAXES; FATTY ACIDS THEREFROM; DETERGENTS; CANDLES
- C11D—DETERGENT COMPOSITIONS; USE OF SINGLE SUBSTANCES AS DETERGENTS; SOAP OR SOAP-MAKING; RESIN SOAPS; RECOVERY OF GLYCEROL
- C11D3/00—Other compounding ingredients of detergent compositions covered in group C11D1/00
- C11D3/16—Organic compounds
- C11D3/38—Products with no well-defined composition, e.g. natural products
- C11D3/386—Preparations containing enzymes, e.g. protease or amylase
- C11D3/38645—Preparations containing enzymes, e.g. protease or amylase containing cellulase
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a heterogeneous washing process in an aqueous medium of articles based on dyed cotton.
- the stonewashing aspect is obtained by the action of the stones in an aqueous medium, in the presence or not of bleaching chemicals depending on the degree of discoloration desired, at preferred temperatures of 20 to 70 ° C., while the stonewashing aspect snow is generally obtained by rubbing stones soaked in sodium hypochlorite or other powerful whitening agent, dry and at room temperature.
- TM technique of Celluzyme from the Danish firm N0V0 (Novo ndustrie Enzymes SA, 26 rue Fortu ⁇ y, 75017 PARIS, France) aims to revive the colors of cotton items. This result is obtained by the very gentle action of cellulases which remove the microfibrils of the cotton fibers caused by wearing the garment and washing, thus restoring the original structure of the cotton fiber.
- one of the conditions for reviving the colors is that no loss of dye accompanies the action of the cellulases during washing, while a very significant release of the dye is an essential condition for the application of the cellulases in the present invention.
- the aim sought by the addition of cellulases in detergents is to restore new appearance to aged clothing in use, while on the contrary that sought for cellulases in the present invention is to cause artificial aging of new articles. in cotton.
- These completely opposite aims are achieved with low cellulase concentrations in the case of used cotton articles to be revitalized and high in the case of new cotton articles to be aged.
- a use of cellulases to introduce variations in color density into colored cotton articles has been suggested in US Patent No. 4,832,864 and the corresponding application EP-A-307564. In this patent, it is suggested that the heterogeneous washing of clothes, in.
- ⁇ su- .denim is obtained by the action of cellulases operating in pH zones ranging from 6.5 to 10, preferably from 6.5 to 8. These neutral or basic cellulases can be of all origins (United States patent no. 4832864) and only of fungal origin in the case of a European patent application (EP-A-307 564).
- the object of the present invention is to provide a method of washing articles made with fabrics only of cotton or dyed cotton or dyed cotton associated with other textile fibers, characterized in that said articles are placed in the presence of 'An aqueous composition based on cellulases at a concentration, a temperature and a pH ensuring heterogeneous washing less than 6 and preferably between 4 and 5 in the presence or not of pumice stones or amylases.
- This process has several advantages, among others, of being compatible with the machines used for stonewashing, does not require a new reinvestment of the users in a new material, considerably increasing the functional longevity of these machines and in order to significantly simplify the tasks of the personnel assigned to these washing operations and finally to reduce the problem of pollution of discharged water.
- This heterogeneous washing method of articles based on dyed cotton, therefore requires the action of cellulases placed in their optimal conditions of activity on the cellulose fibers, to release the dye bound in covalent bond with glucose units or simply fixed by various interactions.
- the cellulases enzymes of microbial origin
- the washing water in which the articles based on dyed cotton are immersed and reacted with rotary stirring for a short time at their optimal temperature and pH condition, the latter being less than 6 and preferably between 4 and 5. It is in fact the pH functional of most of the cellulases which can be used according to the invention.
- Such a pH also makes it possible to avoid the resolubilization of certain dyes such as indigo.
- a final acid wash can be carried out.
- Cellulases are then destroyed by the simple or combined action of proteases, temperature, extreme pH and detergents.
- the effect of cellulases on cotton dyed to release color which is the basis of the present invention, is probably explained by a mild hydrolysis action of the least crystalline cellulose of the cotton fiber, that which was also the most susceptible to dye fixation.
- the concentration of enzymes necessary to obtain the desired washing effect is a function of the activity of this cellulase on native cellulose.
- the effectiveness of these cellulase preparations for hydrolyzing cotton under the optimum pH and temperature conditions specific to each of them varies considerably.
- cellulases of fungal or bacterial origin
- cellulases can be chosen in particular from those originating from the fungi Trichoderma reesei, Penicillium funiculosu, Humicola insolens and from various bacteria in particular, Cellulomonase firmi and Clostridium thermocellum.
- heterogeneous washing is obtained in industrial washing machines of different types in aqueous medium with cellulases in the absence of pumice stones.
- cellulases can also be used as a stonewash activator according to at least two possible alternatives.
- the cellulases are added to the aqueous media containing the articles to be washed and the usual quantities of stones, which results in a reduction of half or more of the time necessary to obtain the result of the process without the addition of enzymes.
- the other possibility consists in adding the cellulases in an aqueous medium containing the articles to be washed out in the presence of stones but in greatly reduced quantities. In this case, the time of the washing operation is generally not reduced compared to the usual process with stones, the benefit being a lower consumption of the stones.
- Trichoderma reesei cellulases should be used in the ratio of 0.5 to 4 filter paper units per gram of items to be washed by dry weight, depending on the texture of the fabric to obtain the best result and washing conditions (presence or absence of stones). A higher concentration is only justified when the reaction time must be reduced, a concentration below this range requires incubation times that are far too long for rational industrial exploitation. With regard to the other bacterial and fungal cellulases, the most suitable concentrations of each are in a appreciably wider range of 0.01 to 5 filter paper units per gram of dry article.
- cellulases The action of cellulases is facilitated by a preliminary treatment of the raw articles with amylases to remove the starch finish and by the association with cationic, anionic or non-anionic detergents compatible with a given cellulase and with dispersing substances. and anti-redeposition of indigo in the case of very dark denim fabrics.
- Another important aspect of the invention resides in the simultaneous use of amylases, enzymes for degrading starch and cellulases to carry out the deaerating and the washing in a single operation.
- the simultaneous action of the two types of enzymes allows a simplification and a saving of time for the process implemented to obtain a faded article from the raw garment after making.
- the optimum pH and temperature conditions used during the reaction of the cellulases with the articles to be bleached may depend on the enzyme used but are usually a pH between 4 and 5, preferably between 4.5 and 4.8 and a temperature of the order of 60 ° C.
- the reaction time is approximately 1 hour.
- the present invention generally relates to clothing or other manufactured articles made from dyed cotton fabrics which have been washed in a heterogeneous manner according to the invention.
- the three items of clothing were placed in a household washing machine with front window (Miele Model W730). After putting in water and rotating the drum for 5 min. the machine is stopped, the pH of the water in the drum is brought to a value of 4.6-4.8 (measured with a pH indicator paper) with 10 ml of 100% acetic acid. Then 20 ml of a solution of CAYLASE 345 at 1.2 x 10 units of filter paper per liter are added to the water (CAYLASE 345 is a cellulase from Trichoderma reesei sold by the company CAYLA). The enzyme concentration in this example is 2400 filter paper units for 1.7 kg of clothing.
- the machine is restarted with a program of 60 minutes of alternating rotation of the drum with maintenance of the water at 60 ° C followed by the emptying of the water which has turned dark blue and filling again.
- the machine is stopped and the pH of the new water is brought to 11 with 10 ml of concentrated sodium hydroxide.
- the machine is restarted with a program of 15 minutes of rotation at 60 ° C, emptying of the water again dark blue, rinsing, 2 washes, rinsing and spinning.
- the three garments after drying in a household rotary dryer Philips, Model AMB508 are compared with the three equivalent garments washed in stones (stone-ashed) purchased at the store.
- the three garments have a characteristic aspect of stonewashing (more pronounced lightening in belts, pockets and seams) with a brighter shine compared to the same stonewashed articles.
- the two jackets have an aged appearance of the best effect, identical for the two garments and a perfect collar for the jacket whose collar was made with a fragile cotton fabric.
- 60 blue jeans in raw canvas are distributed in the two compartments of a used machine industrial for stonewashing (ATENOX, St Médars en Jalles, France) containing about 500 liters of water.
- the temperature rose to 70 ° C by steam and the drum was rotated for 15 min. 5
- the blue water is discharged and replaced by - the same volume of water.
- the pH is lowered to 4.5-4.8 with 500 ml of concentrated acetic acid and 1.5 1 of 1.5 L Celluclast (9 x 10 units of filter paper / liter) (Novo) are distributed in the two compartments .
- the appearance of the blue jeans was similar to that
- CAYLASE P is an enzymatic preparation of Penicillium funiculosu containing cellulases and a ylases, marketed by. CAYLA), the temperature is raised to 60 ° C. After 10 minutes of rotation, 200 ml of acetic acid are added to bring the pH down to 4.5-4.8 and the washing is continued for 50 min. The dark blue water is drained off, and
- a ATEN0X machine is loaded with 60 kg of raw jeans and 120 kg of pumice filled with about 500 liters of water heated to 60 ° C with steam.
- the drum is rotated and 1 liter of CAYLASE 345 (2.4 x 10 4 filter paper units per liter) is added after the pH of the hot water has been adjusted to about 5 with 800 ml of acetic acid.
- the machine is refilled with 500 liters of water and the drum is returned to spin for 30 min.
- the water is drained and then washed with 2 kg of industrial detergent for 15 min. in cold water is followed by 2 rinses of 5 minutes, the pants are removed from the machine, cleared of the stones present in the pockets, wrung and dried.
- the pants had a deep stone-washed appearance identical to those washed out by the same event sequences without the addition of enzyme.
- the addition of the enzymes resulted in this example in a time saving of 90 minutes out of a total of 3 hours for the proceeded only with stones.
- a Milnor industrial washing machine is loaded with 60 casual jeans.
- the water is drained and then washed for 15 min. at 60 ° C with a perborated industrial detergent (St Marc) is followed by two 5-minute rinses with cold water and spinning.
- the pants presented a sought-after appearance characterized by a marked contrast between the white and blue parts.
Landscapes
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Materials Engineering (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
- Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
- Wood Science & Technology (AREA)
- Organic Chemistry (AREA)
- Detergent Compositions (AREA)
- Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
- Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
Abstract
L'invention concerne un procédé de délavage hétérogène en milieux aqueux d'articles à base de coton teint, caractérisé en ce que lesdits articles sont mis en présence d'une composition aqueuse à base de cellulases en présence ou non de pierre ponce ou d'amylase à une concentration, une température et un pH assurant le délavage hétérogène, inférieur à 6 et de préférence compris entre 4 et 5. L'invention se rapporte également aux articles obtenus selon ce procédé.The invention relates to a heterogeneous washing process in aqueous media of articles based on dyed cotton, characterized in that said articles are placed in the presence of an aqueous composition based on cellulases in the presence or not of pumice stone or amylase at a concentration, a temperature and a pH ensuring heterogeneous washing, less than 6 and preferably between 4 and 5. The invention also relates to the articles obtained according to this process.
Description
Claims
Priority Applications (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
AT90901828T ATE96165T1 (en) | 1989-01-09 | 1990-01-08 | METHOD OF WASHING AND LIGHTENING DYED COTTON ARTICLES. |
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
FR8900154A FR2641555B1 (en) | 1989-01-09 | 1989-01-09 | PROCESS FOR HETEROGENEOUS WASHING OF DYED COTTON-BASED ARTICLES USING CELLULASES IN AN AQUEOUS MEDIUM |
FR8900154 | 1989-01-09 |
Publications (2)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
EP0452393A1 true EP0452393A1 (en) | 1991-10-23 |
EP0452393B1 EP0452393B1 (en) | 1993-10-20 |
Family
ID=9377540
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
EP90901828A Revoked EP0452393B1 (en) | 1989-01-09 | 1990-01-08 | Process for heterogenously prefading items made of dyed cotton |
Country Status (5)
Country | Link |
---|---|
EP (1) | EP0452393B1 (en) |
DE (1) | DE69004076T2 (en) |
ES (1) | ES2051011T3 (en) |
FR (1) | FR2641555B1 (en) |
WO (1) | WO1990007569A1 (en) |
Cited By (2)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
WO1997031089A1 (en) * | 1996-02-22 | 1997-08-28 | Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien | Solid, virtually waterless preparatios |
WO1999011747A1 (en) * | 1997-09-04 | 1999-03-11 | Cognis Deutschland Gmbh | Wash process for textiles |
Families Citing this family (14)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
WO1992016685A1 (en) * | 1991-03-19 | 1992-10-01 | Novo Nordisk A/S | Removal of printing paste thickener and excess dye after textile printing |
US6251144B1 (en) | 1992-06-12 | 2001-06-26 | Genencor International, Inc. | Enzymatic compositions and methods for producing stonewashed look on indigo-dyed denim fabric and garments |
US5565006A (en) * | 1993-01-20 | 1996-10-15 | Novo Nordisk A/S | Method for the treatment of dyed fabric |
DE4407801A1 (en) * | 1993-03-15 | 1994-09-22 | Sandoz Ag | Treatment of textiles |
CA2164849C (en) * | 1993-06-11 | 2006-01-03 | Kathleen A. Clarkson | Enzymatic compositions and methods for producing stonewashed look on indigo-dyed denim fabric |
FR2708005B1 (en) * | 1993-07-20 | 1995-11-17 | Antoine Rodrigues | Method and device for artificial wear and bleaching of textile products. |
DE19502514A1 (en) * | 1994-02-03 | 1995-08-10 | Sandoz Ag | New finishing agent for textile fibres |
WO1999035491A2 (en) * | 1998-01-07 | 1999-07-15 | Murray Allen K | Method for detecting growth and stress in plants and for monitoring textile fiber quality |
FR2739109B1 (en) * | 1995-09-26 | 1997-12-12 | Thor Sarl | PRODUCT AND PROCESS FOR THE MODIFIER TREATMENT OF THE SURFACE CONDITION AND / OR TINT OF TEXTILE ARTICLES |
DE59706063D1 (en) * | 1996-09-09 | 2002-02-21 | Cognis Deutschland Gmbh | METHOD FOR PRODUCING A STRUCTURAL EFFECT ON TEXTILE SURFACES |
EP0843041A1 (en) * | 1996-11-13 | 1998-05-20 | Novo Nordisk A/S | Garments with considerable variation in abrasion level and process for its production using cellulolytic enzymes |
WO2022106072A1 (en) | 2020-11-18 | 2022-05-27 | Aplicacion Y Suministros Textiles, S.A.U. | Textile stone washing process |
DE102022127017A1 (en) | 2022-10-14 | 2024-04-25 | Rudolf Gmbh | Biostoning |
WO2024079306A1 (en) | 2022-10-14 | 2024-04-18 | Rudolf Gmbh | Biostoning |
Family Cites Families (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
GB2094826B (en) * | 1981-03-05 | 1985-06-12 | Kao Corp | Cellulase enzyme detergent composition |
DK163591C (en) * | 1985-10-08 | 1992-08-24 | Novo Nordisk As | PROCEDURE FOR TREATING A TEXTILE SUBSTANCE WITH A CELLULASE |
US4832864A (en) * | 1987-09-15 | 1989-05-23 | Ecolab Inc. | Compositions and methods that introduce variations in color density into cellulosic fabrics, particularly indigo dyed denim |
-
1989
- 1989-01-09 FR FR8900154A patent/FR2641555B1/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
-
1990
- 1990-01-08 WO PCT/FR1990/000013 patent/WO1990007569A1/en not_active Application Discontinuation
- 1990-01-08 ES ES90901828T patent/ES2051011T3/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 1990-01-08 EP EP90901828A patent/EP0452393B1/en not_active Revoked
- 1990-01-08 DE DE69004076T patent/DE69004076T2/en not_active Revoked
Non-Patent Citations (1)
Title |
---|
See references of WO9007569A1 * |
Cited By (2)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
WO1997031089A1 (en) * | 1996-02-22 | 1997-08-28 | Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien | Solid, virtually waterless preparatios |
WO1999011747A1 (en) * | 1997-09-04 | 1999-03-11 | Cognis Deutschland Gmbh | Wash process for textiles |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
ES2051011T3 (en) | 1994-06-01 |
WO1990007569A1 (en) | 1990-07-12 |
EP0452393B1 (en) | 1993-10-20 |
DE69004076D1 (en) | 1993-11-25 |
FR2641555B1 (en) | 1992-03-27 |
FR2641555A1 (en) | 1990-07-13 |
DE69004076T2 (en) | 1994-06-23 |
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