EP0438979B1 - Method for construction of pants and pants made thereof - Google Patents

Method for construction of pants and pants made thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0438979B1
EP0438979B1 EP90830028A EP90830028A EP0438979B1 EP 0438979 B1 EP0438979 B1 EP 0438979B1 EP 90830028 A EP90830028 A EP 90830028A EP 90830028 A EP90830028 A EP 90830028A EP 0438979 B1 EP0438979 B1 EP 0438979B1
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Prior art keywords
seam
leg
pants
denim
piece
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EP90830028A
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German (de)
French (fr)
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EP0438979A1 (en
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Dino Fante
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Individual
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Individual
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Priority to DK90830028.8T priority Critical patent/DK0438979T3/en
Priority to AT90830028T priority patent/ATE113445T1/en
Priority to ES90830028T priority patent/ES2064703T3/en
Priority to DE59007638T priority patent/DE59007638D1/en
Priority to EP90830028A priority patent/EP0438979B1/en
Publication of EP0438979A1 publication Critical patent/EP0438979A1/en
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D1/00Garments
    • A41D1/06Trousers

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a method for producing a pair of trousers made of fabric, the pair of trousers having no inside leg seam and a pair of trousers produced using this method.
  • Pants without an inner seam are already known as such. And so DE 33 26 009 A basically already discloses sports pants or underpants that have a one-piece cut, i.e. the inside of the leg parts is seamless. Furthermore there are already riding pants without inner seam, which are made of gabardine.
  • the pants legs are made by sewing the corresponding outer leg seam from the respective leg cut parts.
  • the outer leg seam is formed after the corresponding folding of the one-piece leg cut in that with a device that simultaneously cuts off the protruding fabric edge, the freshly cut fabric edge with a zigzag or the like. The seam is sewn and finally the desired outer leg seam is sewn, work is done.
  • the outer leg seams sewn in the manner described above run in a straight line as desired in the longitudinal direction of the trousers.
  • This object is achieved in a generic method for producing trousers in that the trousers, which are cut in one piece with respect to one trouser leg, are sewn on their outer seam by means of a seam sewing machine.
  • the outer leg seam is preferably formed as a double seam.
  • the suppression of the tendency of helical twisting by the manufacturing method according to the invention is now seen in the fact that a reinforcing fabric profile strip is formed on the outer seam.
  • a hem which is folded several times and which can be described approximately as a labyrinth-shaped cross section is formed.
  • This hem has a transverse stiffness that counteracts the twisting tendency of the denim or the stretch denim. It has also proven very useful in trials to secure this hem stiffening accordingly with a double seam.
  • a seam sewing machine is known for example from DE 29 26 306 B. Such seam sewing machines can be used to form simple or false lap seams when sewing fabric panels together.
  • FR 1 155 516 A describes a sequence of processes according to which, after appropriate folding, panels are provided with several different seams for connecting the panels. No use is made of such a complicated process sequence in the process according to the invention.
  • the method described above is particularly advantageous for the production of trousers in jeans cut, which consist of denim or stretch denim.
  • This method can also be used to counteract a similar twisting tendency, as occurs, for example, with a cord fabric.
  • a pair of trousers produced according to the invention can essentially be sewn together from the following cut parts: two leg parts, a waistband part, two front pocket parts and possibly a small additional front pocket part, two rear pocket parts and two saddle parts.
  • the trousers produced by means of the aforementioned method can also be designed by providing two attachment pieces, which are sewn on in the inner leg area, as additional cut parts. In this way, riding trousers are formed from, for example, denim or stretch denim.
  • a button strip can be provided, which then takes the place of a zipper.
  • the left and right leg sections are designated by 12 and 14 respectively. This is followed by left and right saddle cut parts 16 and 18, respectively.
  • the rear pocket cut parts are designated with 24 and 26 respectively.
  • the front pocket cut parts to be used bear the reference numerals 20 and 22.
  • a small additional front pocket cut-out part 28 is provided, which serves to form a small change or knife pocket within the front pocket of the pants.
  • the bundle strip cutting part is designated by 30.
  • cut pieces for two attachment pieces 32 and 34 are also shown, which can be sewn on the inside leg area of the pants without a leg, so that the jeans shown here can be used as riding pants.
  • the cut parts shown in the figure are usually cut out from a cut sheet with a width of 1.60 m when using denim.
  • the cuts shown here can be arranged on the web so advantageously that compared to a cut for conventional trousers, for example jeans, about 10% of the material can be saved with inside and outside leg seams. This is due to the fact that the cheap arrangement of the cut parts results in less material waste.
  • Another 3-5% are saved compared to conventional trousers with inside and outside leg seams thanks to the approx. 2 cm saved hem on the inside leg seams.
  • a similar cut-off saving results when using stretch denim, in which the fabric is about 1.50 m wide.
  • the double hem seam according to the invention is carried out along the longitudinal side edges designated on the blank 12 with 36 or 36 'or on the blank 14 with 38 or 38'.
  • the double hem seam can be provided for sewing on the saddle cut parts 16 and 18 when the edges 40, 40 'and 42, 42' are sewn together.
  • the double hem seam does not serve to counteract the tendency of the fabric to twist, but is provided for visual reasons, since the fashionable double seam is not just from the outside can be seen, but inside the protruding pieces of fabric are sewn clean at the same time. This last-mentioned advantage naturally also results for the formation of the two outer leg seams.

Abstract

Mfr. of a pair of trousers with no inner leg seam involves sewing the outer leg seam of each one-piece leg section by means of a hemming machine. The outer seam is executed as a double seam. The trousers, jeans in particular, are made of denim, stretch denim or cord.

Description

Die vorliegende Erfindung betrifft ein Verfahren zum Herstellen einer Hose aus Stoff, wobei die Hose keine Beininnennaht aufweist und ein mit diesem Verfahren hergestellte Hose.The present invention relates to a method for producing a pair of trousers made of fabric, the pair of trousers having no inside leg seam and a pair of trousers produced using this method.

Hosen ohne Innennaht sind als solche bereits bekannt. Und so ist aus der DE 33 26 009 A grundsätzlich bereits eine Sporthose oder Unterhose bekannt, die einen einteiligen Zuschnitt aufweist, d.h. deren Innenseite der Beinteile nahtfrei ausgeführt ist. Weiterhin gibt es bereits Reiterhosen ohne Innennaht, die aus Gabardine gefertigt sind. Bei der Herstellung derartiger vorbekannter Gabardine-Reiterhosen werden die Hosenbeine durch Zusammennähen der entsprechenden Beinaußennaht aus den jeweiligen Beinzuschnittstoffteilen gefertigt. Nach dem vorbekannten Verfahren wird die Beinaußennaht nach entsprechendem Zusammenlegen des einteiligen Beinzuschnitts dadurch gebildet, daß mit einer Vorrichtung, die gleichzeitig den überstehenden Stoffrand abschneidet, den frischgeschnittenen Stoffrand mit einer Zick-Zack- o.ä. Naht vernäht und schließlich die gewünschte Beinaußennaht näht, gearbeitet wird. Die so auf die vorbeschriebene Weise genähten Beinaußennähte verlaufen bei den fertigen Gabardine-Reithosen wunschgemäß in Hosenlängsrichtung gesehen in einer Geraden.Pants without an inner seam are already known as such. And so DE 33 26 009 A basically already discloses sports pants or underpants that have a one-piece cut, i.e. the inside of the leg parts is seamless. Furthermore there are already riding pants without inner seam, which are made of gabardine. In the manufacture of such known gabardine saddle pants, the pants legs are made by sewing the corresponding outer leg seam from the respective leg cut parts. According to the previously known method, the outer leg seam is formed after the corresponding folding of the one-piece leg cut in that with a device that simultaneously cuts off the protruding fabric edge, the freshly cut fabric edge with a zigzag or the like. The seam is sewn and finally the desired outer leg seam is sewn, work is done. In the finished gabardine breeches, the outer leg seams sewn in the manner described above run in a straight line as desired in the longitudinal direction of the trousers.

Es wurde nun festgestellt, daß bei einem Versuch, eine solche Reiterhose aus anderen Stoffen herzustellen, die Außennaht in Beinlängsrichtung gesehen nicht mehr gerade, sondern vielmehr schraubenlinienförmig verläuft. Diese Tendenz wurde insbesondere bei Hosen im Jeansschnitt aus Denim oder Stretch-Denim festgestellt. Weiter konnte beobachtet werden, daß die Tendenz des schraubenlinienförmigen Verdrehens der Außennaht gerade bei hauteng anliegenden Hosen verstärkt auftrat.It has now been found that in an attempt to produce such riding trousers from other materials, the outer seam, viewed in the longitudinal direction of the leg, is no longer straight, but rather helical. This tendency was found particularly in jeans cut trousers made of denim or stretch denim. It could also be observed that the tendency of the outer seam to twist in the form of a helix, especially when skin tight adjacent pants appeared more.

Es ist nicht eindeutig geklärt, welche strukturellen Merkmale im Stoff dieses schraubenlinienförmige Verdrehen der Außennaht bewirken. Der Effekt könnte allerdings darin begründet sein, daß Gabardine eine glatte Faserstruktur aufweist und dadurch keine Verdrehwirkung im gewebten Stoff auftritt. Dagegen weist Denim bzw. Stretch-Denim eine rauhe Struktur auf, die entsprechend auch Knötchen o.dgl. aufweist. Denim besteht aus verdrillten oder verdrehten Fasersträngen, so daß sich im gewebten Stoff eine Präferenzverdrehrichtung der Stoffbahn ergibt. Dieser Effekt könnte dadurch verstärkt werden, daß die Fasern bzw. Faserstränge beim chemischen Färbvorgang durch die entsprechenden Farbchemikalien eine zusätzliche Spannung erfahren, die darüber hinaus noch durch die erhöhte Temperatur beim Färben unterstützt werden könnte. Aufgrund dieser Tendenz zum Verziehen des gewebten Stoffes in eine bestimmte Richtung ergibt sich die Notwendigkeit, daß die auszuschneidenden Teile einer Hose genau in Fadenrichtung der Stoffbahn, also parallel zur Webkante ausgeschnitten werden müssen. Diese extrem genaue Ausrichtung beim Zuschneiden ist dagegen bei den zuvor erwähnten Gabardine-Hosen nicht notwendig. Diese weisen, wie zuvor ausgeführt, die Verdrehpräferenz im Gegensatz zu Jeans aus Denim oder Stretch-Denim nicht auf.It is not clear which structural features in the fabric cause this helical twisting of the outer seam. The effect could be due to the fact that gabardine has a smooth fiber structure and therefore no twisting effect occurs in the woven fabric. In contrast, denim or stretch denim has a rough structure, which also corresponds to nodules or the like. having. Denim consists of twisted or twisted fiber strands, so that there is a preferred twisting direction of the fabric in the woven fabric. This effect could be intensified in that the fibers or fiber strands experience an additional tension during the chemical dyeing process through the corresponding dye chemicals, which tension could also be supported by the increased temperature during dyeing. Because of this tendency to warp the woven fabric in a certain direction, there is a need for the parts of a pair of trousers to be cut out to be cut exactly in the thread direction of the fabric, that is, parallel to the selvedge. However, this extremely precise alignment when cutting is not necessary with the aforementioned gabardine pants. As previously stated, these do not have the twisting preference in contrast to jeans made from denim or stretch denim.

Bei herkömmlichen Jeans-Zuschnitten werden grundsätzlich Beininnen-und -außennähte gebildet. Diese Nähte werden in gleicher Weise gebildet, wie zuvor am Beispiel der Gabardine-Reiterhose ausgeführt. Das Problem des schraubenförmigen Verdrehens dieser Innen- und Außennähte tritt bei den konventionell zugeschnittenen Jeanshosen aus Denim oder Stretch-Denim nicht auf, da einem entsprechenden Verdrehen dadurch entgegengewirkt wird, daß zunächst einmal nur schmale Stoffstücke vorhanden sind, bei denen sich die Verdrehpräferenz des Stoffes nicht so stark auswirkt. Zudem ergibt sich durch Vorsehen einer Beininnen- und -außennaht ein kompensatorischer Effekt, der ein schraubenlinienförmiges Verdrehen des Nahtverlaufs unterdrückt.With conventional jeans cuts, inside and outside leg seams are always formed. These seams are formed in the same way as previously shown using the example of gabardine breeches. The problem of the helical twisting of these inner and outer seams does not occur with the conventionally tailored denim or stretch denim jeans, since a corresponding twisting is counteracted by the fact that initially only narrow pieces of fabric are present, in which the twist preference of the fabric does not change impacted so strongly. In addition, the provision of an inside and outside leg seam results in a compensatory effect which suppresses a helical twisting of the seam course.

Aus dem Vorgenannten ergibt sich nun die Aufgabe, Hosen ohne Innennähte aus einem zum schraubenlinienförmigen Verdrehen einer entsprechend gebildeten Naht neigenden Stoff so herzustellen, daß die Beinaußennähte in ihrer gewünschten Position bleiben.From the above, the task now arises to produce trousers without inner seams from a material that tends to twist a correspondingly formed seam in such a way that the outer leg seams remain in their desired position.

Diese Aufgabe wird bei einem gattungsgemäßen Verfahren zum Herstellen einer Stoffhose dadurch gelöst, daß die bezüglich eines Hosenbeins jeweils einteilig zugeschnittene Hose an ihrer Außennaht mittels einer Säumnähmaschine genäht wird. Das bedeutet, daß vor dem Zusammennähen die entsprechenden Stoffseitenkanten über einen als solchen bekannten Säumvorsatz umgelegt werden und hinterher durch die als solche konventionelle Nähmaschine vernäht werden. Vorzugsweise wird die Beinaußennaht als Doppelnaht gebildet. Die Unterdrückung der Tendenz des schraubenlinienförmigen Verdrehens durch das erfindungsgemäße Herstellverfahren wird nun darin gesehen, daß an der Außennaht eine verstärkende Stoffprofilleiste gebildet wird. Durch das entsprechende Umschlagen der Saumteile durch die Saumnähmaschine wird ein mehrfach umgeschlagener näherungsweise als labyrinthförmiger Querschnitt beschreibbarer Saum gebildet. Dieser Saum hat eine Quersteifigkeit, die der Verdrehneigung des Denims bzw. des Stretch-Denims entgegenwirkt. Es hat sich bei Versuchen zusätzlich sehr bewährt, diese Saumversteifung durch eine Doppelnaht entsprechend zu sichern.This object is achieved in a generic method for producing trousers in that the trousers, which are cut in one piece with respect to one trouser leg, are sewn on their outer seam by means of a seam sewing machine. This means that before sewing together, the corresponding fabric side edges are folded over a hemming attachment known as such and afterwards are sewn by the conventional sewing machine as such. The outer leg seam is preferably formed as a double seam. The suppression of the tendency of helical twisting by the manufacturing method according to the invention is now seen in the fact that a reinforcing fabric profile strip is formed on the outer seam. Through the appropriate turning over of the hem parts by the hem sewing machine, a hem which is folded several times and which can be described approximately as a labyrinth-shaped cross section is formed. This hem has a transverse stiffness that counteracts the twisting tendency of the denim or the stretch denim. It has also proven very useful in trials to secure this hem stiffening accordingly with a double seam.

Eine Saumnähmaschine ist beispielsweise aus der DE 29 26 306 B bekannt. Mit derartigen Saumnähmaschinen können einfache oder falsche Kappnähte beim Zusammennähen von Stoffbahnen gebildet werden.A seam sewing machine is known for example from DE 29 26 306 B. Such seam sewing machines can be used to form simple or false lap seams when sewing fabric panels together.

In der FR 1 155 516 A ist eine Verfahrensfolge beschrieben, gemäß der Stoffbahnen nach entsprechendem Umfalzen mit mehreren unterschiedlichen Nähten zum Verbinden der Stoffbahnen versehen werden. Von einer derartig umständlichen Verfahrensabfolge wird in dem erfindungsgemäßen Verfahren gerade kein Gebrauch gemacht.FR 1 155 516 A describes a sequence of processes according to which, after appropriate folding, panels are provided with several different seams for connecting the panels. No use is made of such a complicated process sequence in the process according to the invention.

Besonders vorteilhaft ist das vorbeschriebene Verfahren für die Herstellung von Hosen im Jeansschnitt, die aus Denim oder Stretch-Denim bestehen. Mittels dieses Verfahrens kann aber auch einer ähnlichen Verdrehtendenz, wie sie beispielsweise bei einem Cordstoff auftritt, entgegengewirkt werden.The method described above is particularly advantageous for the production of trousers in jeans cut, which consist of denim or stretch denim. This method can also be used to counteract a similar twisting tendency, as occurs, for example, with a cord fabric.

Da die Tendenz zum schraubenförmigen Verdrehen der Beinaußennaht gerade beim eng am Körper anliegenden Jeans auftritt, ist es von besonderem Vorteil Hosen mit eng am Körper anliegenden Paßform gem. dem vorstehenden Verfahren herzustellen.Since the tendency to helically twist the outer leg seam occurs especially with jeans that are tight against the body, it is particularly advantageous to wear trousers with a tight fit. to manufacture the above method.

Eine nach dem erfindungsgemäßen hergestellte Hose kann im wesentlichen aus folgenden Zuschnitteilen zusammengenäht werden: zwei Beinteilen, einem Bundleistenteil, zwei Vordertaschenteilen und ggf. einem kleinen zusätzlichen Vordertaschenteil, zwei Hintertaschenteilen und zwei Sattelteilen.A pair of trousers produced according to the invention can essentially be sewn together from the following cut parts: two leg parts, a waistband part, two front pocket parts and possibly a small additional front pocket part, two rear pocket parts and two saddle parts.

Die mittels des zuvor genannten Verfahrens hergestellte Hose kann noch dadurch ausgestaltet werden, daß als zusätzliche Zuschnitteile zwei Aufsatzstücke, die im Beininnenbereich aufgenäht sind, vorgesehen werden. Hierdurch wird eine Reiterhose aus beispielsweise Denim oder Stretch-Denim gebildet.The trousers produced by means of the aforementioned method can also be designed by providing two attachment pieces, which are sewn on in the inner leg area, as additional cut parts. In this way, riding trousers are formed from, for example, denim or stretch denim.

Ggf. kann als weiteres zusätzliches Zuschnitteil gem. einer weiteren vorteilhaften Ausführung noch eine Knopfleiste vorgesehen werden, die dann anstelle eines Reißverschlusses tritt.Possibly. can be used as a further additional blank according to a further advantageous embodiment, a button strip can be provided, which then takes the place of a zipper.

Die nach der o.g. technischen Lehre beispielsweise aus Denim oder Stretch-Denim hergestellten Hosen weisen gegenüber konventionellen Jeans erhebliche Vorteile auf. Zunächst können beim Zuschnitt der Einzelteile entsprechende Schnitte eingespart werden, da bei den nach dem erfindungsgemäßen Verfahren hergestellten Hosen vergleichsweise weniger Zuschnitteile zugeschnitten werden müssen.According to the above Technical teaching, for example made from denim or stretch denim, has considerable advantages over conventional jeans. First of all, corresponding cuts can be saved when cutting the individual parts, since comparatively fewer cut parts have to be cut in the trousers produced by the method according to the invention.

Weiterhin wird beim Zuschnitt Stoff eingespart, was sich beispielsweise schon daraus ergibt, daß für die eingesparte Innennaht kein Saum vorgesehen werden muß. Insgesamt lassen sich bei den nach dem erfindungsgemäßen Verfahren hergestellten Hosen ca. 13-15 % des Zuschnittstoffes einsparen.Furthermore, fabric is saved during cutting, which results, for example, from the fact that no seam has to be provided for the saved inner seam. In total, approx. Approx. Save 13-15% of the cut material.

Ein weiterer entscheidender Vorteil wird während des Zusammennähens erzielt, da hier entsprechend weniger Nähte angefertigt werden müssen. Bei konventioneller Jeansfertigung arbeiten in einer entsprechenden Nähproduktion 8 Arbeiter an 8 Maschinen. Bei der Produktion nach dem erfindungsgemäßen Verfahren arbeiten dagegen nur 2 Näher an entsprechend 2 Maschinen.Another decisive advantage is achieved during the sewing process, since fewer seams have to be made here. In conventional jeans production, 8 workers work on 8 machines in a corresponding sewing production. In contrast, in the production according to the method according to the invention only 2 sewers work on a corresponding 2 machines.

Beim Zuschneiden und Nähen wird eine Zeitersparnis von ca. 30 % erzielt. Hierdurch lassen sich selbstverständlich wesentlich wirtschaftlicher Hosen herstellen. Bei der Wirtschaftlichkeitsberechnung ist nicht nur die zuvor geschilderte Stoff- und Zeitersparnis, sondern auch eine Ersparnis des Nähgarns zu berücksichtigen. All diese Vorteile können durch das erfindungsgemäße Verfahren verwirklicht werden, ohne daß hierfür irgendein Nachteil in Kauf genommen werden müßte.A 30% time saving is achieved when cutting and sewing. Of course, this makes it possible to produce much more economical trousers. When calculating the economic efficiency, not only the previously described savings in material and time, but also savings in sewing thread must be taken into account. All of these advantages can be realized by the method according to the invention without having to accept any disadvantage for this.

Schließlich liegt ein entscheidender Vorteil der Hosen ohne Beininnennaht im Tragekomfort, da insbesondere bei enganliegenden Jeans aus Denim oder Stretch-Denim sich keine Innennähte kneifend in die anliegenden Hautpartien eindrücken.After all, a decisive advantage of trousers without inside leg seams is comfort, because especially with tight-fitting jeans made of denim or stretch denim, no inner seams pinch the adjacent skin areas.

Weitere Einzelheiten und Vorteile des erfindungsgemäßen Verfahrens und der durch dieses hergestellte Hose ergeben sich aus der folgenden Beschreibung eines zeichnerisch dargestellten bevorzugten Ausführungsbeispiels. In der Fig. sind schematisch die Zuschnittstoffteile für eine Hose ohne Beininnennaht dargestellt.Further details and advantages of the method according to the invention and the trousers produced by it result from the following description of a preferred exemplary embodiment shown in the drawing. In the figure, the blank parts for pants without a leg seam are shown schematically.

Mit 12 bzw. 14 sind das linke bzw. rechte Beinzuschnitteil bezeichnet. An diese schließen sich jeweils linke bzw. rechte Sattelzuschnitteile 16 bzw. 18 an. Die Hintertaschenzuschnittteile sind mit 24 bzw. 26 bezeichnet. Die einzusetzenden Vordertaschenzuschnitteile tragen das Bezugszeichen 20 bzw. 22. In einer Tasche ist ein kleines zusätzliches Vordertaschenzuschnittteil 28 vorgesehen, welches zum Bilden einer Kleingeld- oder Messertasche innerhalb der Hosenvordertasche dient. Mit 30 ist das Bundleistenzuschnitteil bezeichnet. In dem in dieser Fig. dargestellten Ausführungsbeispiel sind zusätzlich noch Zuschnitteile für zwei Aufsatzstücke 32 bzw. 34 dargestellt, die im Innenbeinbereich der beininnennahtlosen Hose aufgenäht werden können, so daß die hier dargestellte Jeans als Reiterhose verwendet werden kann.The left and right leg sections are designated by 12 and 14 respectively. This is followed by left and right saddle cut parts 16 and 18, respectively. The rear pocket cut parts are designated with 24 and 26 respectively. The front pocket cut parts to be used bear the reference numerals 20 and 22. In a pocket, a small additional front pocket cut-out part 28 is provided, which serves to form a small change or knife pocket within the front pocket of the pants. The bundle strip cutting part is designated by 30. In the embodiment shown in this figure, cut pieces for two attachment pieces 32 and 34 are also shown, which can be sewn on the inside leg area of the pants without a leg, so that the jeans shown here can be used as riding pants.

Die in der Fig. dargestellten Zuschnitteile werden bei Verwendung von Denim üblicherweise aus einer Zuschnittbahn einer Breite von 1,60 m ausgeschnitten. Die hier dargestellten Zuschnitte können dabei auf der Bahn so vorteilhaft angeordnet werden, daß gegenüber einem Zuschnitt für eine konventionelle Hose, beispielsweise Jeans, mit Beininnen- und Beinaußennaht ca. 10 % des Stoffes eingespart werden können. Dies ergibt sich daraus, daß durch die günstige Anordnung der Zuschnitteile weniger Stoffverschnitt anfällt. Weitere 3-5 % werden gegenüber konventionellen Hosen mit Beininnen- und Beinaußennaht durch den ca. über 2 cm verlaufenden eingesparten Saum der Beininnennähte zusätzlich eingespart. Eine ähnliche Verschnitteinsparung ergibt sich bei Verwendung von Stretch-Denim, bei dem die Stoffbahnen eine Breite von ca. 1,50 m beträgt.The cut parts shown in the figure are usually cut out from a cut sheet with a width of 1.60 m when using denim. The cuts shown here can be arranged on the web so advantageously that compared to a cut for conventional trousers, for example jeans, about 10% of the material can be saved with inside and outside leg seams. This is due to the fact that the cheap arrangement of the cut parts results in less material waste. Another 3-5% are saved compared to conventional trousers with inside and outside leg seams thanks to the approx. 2 cm saved hem on the inside leg seams. A similar cut-off saving results when using stretch denim, in which the fabric is about 1.50 m wide.

Die erfindungsgemäße Saumdoppelnaht wird entlang der am Zuschnitt 12 mit 36 bzw. 36' bzw. am Zuschnitt 14 mit 38 bzw. 38' bezeichneten Längsseitenkanten ausgeführt. Zusätzlich kann die Saumdoppelnaht zum Annähen der Sattelzuschnitteile 16 und 18 beim Zusammennähen der Kanten 40, 40' bzw. 42, 42' vorgesehen werden. Hier dient die Saumdoppelnaht nicht dem Entgegenwirken einer Verdrehneigung des Stoffes, sondern ist aus optischen Gründen vorgesehen, da nicht nur von außen die modische Doppelnaht zu sehen ist, sondern innen die überstehenden Stoffstücke gleichzeitig sauber vernäht sind. Dieser letztgenannte Vorteil ergibt sich selbstverständlich auch für die Bildung der beiden Beinaußennähte.The double hem seam according to the invention is carried out along the longitudinal side edges designated on the blank 12 with 36 or 36 'or on the blank 14 with 38 or 38'. In addition, the double hem seam can be provided for sewing on the saddle cut parts 16 and 18 when the edges 40, 40 'and 42, 42' are sewn together. Here, the double hem seam does not serve to counteract the tendency of the fabric to twist, but is provided for visual reasons, since the fashionable double seam is not just from the outside can be seen, but inside the protruding pieces of fabric are sewn clean at the same time. This last-mentioned advantage naturally also results for the formation of the two outer leg seams.

Claims (5)

  1. Method for the construction of pants of denim, stretch denim or corduroy without an inside-leg seam,
    characterised in that
    the joining edges at the outside-leg seam of each one-piece leg part (12, 14) are folded over several times and sewn together by a seaming machine to produce a seam with a labyrinthine cross section giving a profiled strip of material with sufficient transverse strength to counteract the twisting tendency of the material.
  2. Process according to Claim 1, characterised in that the outside-leg seam is of double-seam construction.
  3. Pants of denim, stretch denim or corduroy, in particular jeans, with a tightly fitting body form, essentially constructed by sewing together the following parts:
    - two leg pieces (12, 14);
    - a waistband piece (30);
    - two front pocket pieces (20, 22)
    and optionally
    - a small additional front pocket piece (28);
    - two back pocket pieces (24, 26); and
    - two yoke pieces (16, 18),
    said pants having no inside-leg seam,
    characterised in that
    the joining edges at the outside-leg seam of each one-piece leg section (12, 14) are folded over several times and sewn together by a seaming machine to produce a seam with a labyrinthine cross section giving a profiled strip of material with sufficient transverse strength to counteract the twisting tendency of the material.
  4. Pants according to Claim 3, characterised in that two thigh parts (32, 34) as additional pieces are sewn onto the inner leg area.
  5. Pants according to Claim 3, characterised in that a button fly is provided as an additional piece.
EP90830028A 1990-01-26 1990-01-26 Method for construction of pants and pants made thereof Expired - Lifetime EP0438979B1 (en)

Priority Applications (5)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DK90830028.8T DK0438979T3 (en) 1990-01-26 1990-01-26 Process for the manufacture of leggings as well as leggings the manufacture thereof
AT90830028T ATE113445T1 (en) 1990-01-26 1990-01-26 METHOD OF MAKING PANTS AND PANTS MADE BY THIS METHOD.
ES90830028T ES2064703T3 (en) 1990-01-26 1990-01-26 PROCEDURE FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF A PANTS AND PANTS MADE WITH THIS PROCEDURE.
DE59007638T DE59007638D1 (en) 1990-01-26 1990-01-26 Method for producing a pair of trousers and trousers produced using this method.
EP90830028A EP0438979B1 (en) 1990-01-26 1990-01-26 Method for construction of pants and pants made thereof

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP90830028A EP0438979B1 (en) 1990-01-26 1990-01-26 Method for construction of pants and pants made thereof

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0438979A1 EP0438979A1 (en) 1991-07-31
EP0438979B1 true EP0438979B1 (en) 1994-11-02

Family

ID=8205987

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP90830028A Expired - Lifetime EP0438979B1 (en) 1990-01-26 1990-01-26 Method for construction of pants and pants made thereof

Country Status (5)

Country Link
EP (1) EP0438979B1 (en)
AT (1) ATE113445T1 (en)
DE (1) DE59007638D1 (en)
DK (1) DK0438979T3 (en)
ES (1) ES2064703T3 (en)

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP3996489A4 (en) * 2019-07-09 2023-07-19 Realkom Tekstil Urunleri San. Pazarlama Dis Ticaret A.S. Seamless trousers
EP4087431B1 (en) * 2020-01-09 2023-12-13 Racing Force S.p.A. Protection bodice

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE202006016727U1 (en) 2006-10-19 2007-03-01 MÜLLER, Tanja Trousers, e.g. breeches in jeans shape for riding sports, has side seams which are present in jeans section at inner side of leg of person wearing trouser

Family Cites Families (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR1155516A (en) * 1956-07-02 1958-05-05 Improvements to trousers or similar articles
FR1372640A (en) * 1963-08-08 1964-09-18 Comoditex Improvement in the cut of trousers and trousers made according to this cut
FR1386385A (en) * 1963-12-07 1965-01-22 Trouser enhancements
DE2926306C2 (en) * 1979-06-29 1981-11-26 Pfaff Industriemaschinen Gmbh, 6750 Kaiserslautern Sewing machine for connecting two overlapping workpiece layers with a device for guiding the workpiece layers
FR2465024A1 (en) * 1979-09-13 1981-03-20 Exsaber Sarl Double-sewn seam - has fabric edges turned in, for reversible garments of light material
FR2488297A3 (en) * 1980-08-06 1982-02-12 Superball Sa Fabric for jeans, etc. with migratable colourant on reverse - gives irregular modification of face colour on washing
DE3326009A1 (en) * 1983-07-19 1985-01-31 Schiesser Ag, 7760 Radolfzell Sporting trousers or underpants with leg parts

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP3996489A4 (en) * 2019-07-09 2023-07-19 Realkom Tekstil Urunleri San. Pazarlama Dis Ticaret A.S. Seamless trousers
EP4087431B1 (en) * 2020-01-09 2023-12-13 Racing Force S.p.A. Protection bodice

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
ATE113445T1 (en) 1994-11-15
DK0438979T3 (en) 1994-12-12
DE59007638D1 (en) 1994-12-08
ES2064703T3 (en) 1995-02-01
EP0438979A1 (en) 1991-07-31

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