EP0418275B1 - Method for making modulatable garments - Google Patents

Abstract

Method for making modulatable garments by assembly pieces (1) presenting assembly lines (2) which reproduce a unique base pattern having the shape of a lozenge. The pieces are provided with attachment means (3) such as snap-fasteners arranged along assembly lines and are arranged with the lozenges having their long diagonal (D) oriented vertically. The top portion and the bottom portion of the garnment are each formed of a row of four pieces defining for lozenges assembled by their tops situated at the extremities of the small diagonals.

Description

The invention relates to a method for producing modular garments.

Conventionally, making clothes requires the creation of a model (or pattern) serving as a basis for cutting each part of the garment. This model can be specially created to the dimensions of the person for whom the garment is intended: this is called tailor-made sewing; or the model can be of standardized dimensions: in this case we speak of "ready to wear". In both cases, the cutting is followed by an assembly of the different parts of the garment, by sewing. This traditional assembly method has drawbacks: the garments thus produced are not easily transformable; moreover the shapes of the parts to be sewn being different and varied, this creates losses in the base material.

It has been proposed to produce transformable or modular garments from standard elements of various shapes provided with removable fastening means for constructing a desired garment by assembling elements.

Thus, French patent No. 2 079 865 discloses a transformation process for clothing and accessories using geometric elements of small dimensions each having at least one side of equal length. For the assembly of the different elements, at least one perforation is provided near each vertex of the geometrical element, a perforation through which a spring ring passes.

French Patent No. 1,563,149 relates to a female garment produced by the juxtaposition of fabric, leather, ... bands assembled together by staples, rings or bands provided with means of mutual attachment.

As for French patent No 2 399 810, it discloses a process for manufacturing clothing by assembling identical or different spare parts.

Finally, US Patent 3,662,404 relates to a garment consisting of a large number of small diamonds connected together only by their vertices, so that a set of days appears between these diamonds.

However, the documents which have just been cited show either very simple, unattractive forms of clothing, or more sought-after forms of clothing, but which then require a plurality of different elements, resulting in more tissue storage. .

The present invention aims to provide a method for making modular clothing that is both aesthetic and fitting without requiring a plurality of elements of different shapes.

In accordance with the invention, this object is achieved thanks to a process for producing modular clothing by assembling parts having assembly lines which reproduce a single basic pattern in the form of a diamond, the large diagonal of which is parallel to the axis. main body, the circumference of the or each part of the garment at chest or hip level being formed by a row of four pieces whose assembly lines define four basic diamond patterns linked by their vertices located at the ends of the small diagonals, the parts being provided with means of attachment to the tops and on the sides of the diamonds defined by the assembly lines.

Advantageously also, the production of the garment is completed by the assembly of accessory parts, at least some of which have assembly lines defining a triangle pattern which constitutes a fraction of the basic diamond pattern. One side of the triangle can be provided with a slide.

Those of the constituent parts of the garment which have assembly lines according to the basic diamond pattern can themselves have a diamond shape with edges parallel to the assembly lines. It can be the same for the accessory parts which present assembly lines according to a triangle pattern constituting a fraction of the pattern. diamond base. The edges of a part are then located slightly outside the assembly lines so that mutual overlap is obtained between assembled parts along two respective edges.

Alternatively, at least some of the constituent parts of the garment can have a shape other than a diamond or fraction of a diamond, with one edge or more edges not parallel to the assembly lines. Thus, one or more constituent parts of the garment may have a free part forming for example a steering wheel or a flap which extends beyond an assembly line and does not participate in the holding of the garment.

As indicated below in more detail, the choice of the rhombus as the basic pattern for the assembly lines of the constituent parts of the garment is not arbitrary. It offers multiple advantages both technically and aesthetically.

The diamond shape is indeed the most rational to marry the body. The diamonds are arranged with a diagonal, preferably the largest diagonal, oriented vertically. The sides of the diamonds then form oblique lines which favor the connection between pieces, allowing to easily release the neckline and armholes and give a more comfortable character to the garment.

In addition, the choice of four diamonds to form the circumference of the garment at chest level allows to form naturally the neckline and armholes of the garment. In the case of a garment comprising an upper part and a lower part, the choice of four diamonds to form the circumference of the garment at the hips then ensures a harmonious complement of the upper part.

When the constituent parts of the garment are made of fabric, the sides of the diamonds are preferably in the bias of the fabric, which gives these sides a certain flexibility and produces better cohesion between the assembled pieces.

Advantageously, the dimensions of the diamonds are chosen so that the working length of their small diagonal is equal to a quarter of the chest measurement of a standard size and half of a large diagonal. Thanks to this rationalization of the dimensions of the diamonds, a clothing seller only needs a limited stock of pieces of clothing, corresponding to the standardized sizes.

The attachment means are arranged on the sides and tops of the diamonds. Different means of fastening can be used such as, for example, buttons, snaps, laces, ...

• les figures 1A à 1D illustrent le principe sur lequel est basé le procédé conforme à l'invention,
• la figure 2 montre une pièce de vêtement avec des lignes d'assemblage définissant un motif de base en forme de losange, utilisée pour la réalisation d'un vêtement suivant le procédé conforme à l'invention,
• les figures 3A et 3B montrent des pièces accessoires avec des lignes d'assemblage définissant un motif qui constitue une fraction du motif de base en losange,
• la figure 4 illustre un assemblage possible de pièces suivant le procédé conforme à l'invention, et
• les figures 5A et 5B illustrent un bouton-pression utilisable pour l'assemblage de pièces constitutives d'un vêtement.

Other characteristics, details and advantages of the method according to the invention will be better understood on reading the description which follows, made with reference to the appended drawings in which:

• FIGS. 1A to 1D illustrate the principle on which the method according to the invention is based,
• FIG. 2 shows a piece of clothing with assembly lines defining a basic diamond-shaped pattern, used for the production of a garment according to the method according to the invention,
• FIGS. 3A and 3B show accessory parts with assembly lines defining a pattern which constitutes a fraction of the basic diamond pattern,
• FIG. 4 illustrates a possible assembly of parts according to the method according to the invention, and
• FIGS. 5A and 5B illustrate a press button usable for the assembly of constituent parts of a garment.

The process for producing modular garments according to the invention is based on the use of parts having assembly lines which reproduce a single basic pattern in the form of a diamond.

The choice of the diamond shape comes from the fact that the silhouette of the human body is inscribed in a diamond L (Figure 1A) whose long diagonal is vertical and corresponds substantially to the height of the subject.

As shown in FIGS. 1B to 1D, by dividing the diamond L into several equal elementary diamonds 1 juxtaposed also having their large vertical diagonal, it is possible to approach the silhouette of the body very correctly, hence the possibility of achieving a garment by assembling pieces according to diamonds. In FIG. 1B, the hatched elementary diamonds form the front or the back of the upper part of a garment, at chest level while, in FIG. 1C, the hatched elementary diamonds form the front or the back of the part. low of a garment, at the hips. Other elementary diamonds can be used to complete the garment, at least at the waist (Figure 1D).

Figure 2 illustrates a standard part 1 with assembly lines 2 reproducing the basic diamond pattern. In the example illustrated, the piece 1 is itself diamond-shaped, the edges of which are parallel to those of the diamond defined by the lines 2. The piece 1 is made of fabric, leather or other material. Preferably, when the piece is made of fabric, the sides of the piece 1 are cut through the fabric so that the warp and weft threads are parallel to the diagonals of the rhombus.

The dimensions of part 1 are calculated as follows. The small diagonal d of the rhombus defined by the assembly lines 2 is equal to a quarter of the chest or hip circumference of the person for whom the garment is intended. In the case of so-called "ready-to-wear" clothing, several theoretical diamonds are determined, the dimensions of the small diagonals of which are calculated from the chest or hip measurements corresponding to the standardized sizes (38N, 40N, ...). The large diagonal D of the rhombus defined by the assembly lines 2 is chosen to be double the small diagonal. The dimensions of the part 1 are chosen slightly greater than those of the rhombus defined by the assembly lines 2 to allow assembly with slight overlap of the parts at their vertices or assembled sides. For example, the diagonals of piece 1 have a length of about 2 cm longer than that of the diagonals d and D.

The means of attachment of the constituent parts of the garment to each other (shown diagrammatically in 3) consist, for example, of buttons, press studs or eyelets for passing laces. An embodiment of press studs is described below with reference to FIG. 5.

The locations of the fastening means located on the assembly lines 2 are defined so that each side of the rhombus is provided for example with three fasteners: one in the middle of the side and two other equidistant from the middle, and close to the vertices defining the side. In addition, each top of the part 1 is provided with a fastener.

The main parts of the garment formed by the pieces 1 are completed by accessory parts which have assembly lines defining a fraction of the basic diamond pattern. The latter can be, for some, obtained by splitting the standard part 1. Thus, FIGS. 3A and 3B show two accessory parts 4, 5 obtained by cutting the part 1 respectively along its large diagonal and along its small diagonal. On two of their sides, the accessory parts 4, 5 are provided with fastening means 3 arranged as on the sides of the base part 1. The fastening means 3 are located on the assembly lines 2 which define a triangle constituting a fraction of the basic diamond pattern.

In the case of a cut along the small diagonal d (FIG. 3b), the triangles thus obtained will advantageously be provided with at least one hem 6 on the base of the triangle, a hem which could possibly serve as a slide for tightening the collar, wrist, waist or belt depending on the location of the triangle in the garment.

In addition, in order not to have an excess thickness of fabric in the overlap zone between the point of a triangle and the vertices of two neighboring diamonds, the point of the triangle may be cut as indicated at 7 in FIG. 3B. The link will then be done by the two closest ties to the removed tip.

FIG. 4 illustrates, in the form developed flat, an embodiment of a garment according to the invention.

A first row of four pieces 1a to 1d is constructed to form the top of the garment. The pieces have their large vertical diagonals and are joined by their vertices located at the ends of the small diagonals. A second identical row of four pieces 1e à 1h is built to form the bottom of the garment. The two rows can be joined by assembling the lower vertices of the pieces of the top row with the upper vertices of the pieces of the bottom row and / or with the interposition of pieces 1i, 1j at the waist. The garment thus formed can be extended downwards by accessory parts 5a, 5b.

As already indicated, the use of a basic diamond pattern for the assembly lines of the pieces of clothing provides particular advantages on the practical and aesthetic level.

The oblique lines formed by the sides of the diamonds make it possible to gradually increase or decrease the extent in the construction of the garment and give an impression of thinning.

The presence of connecting points between the pieces not along horizontal lines, but at the top of oblique lines promotes good attachment, well "flat", that is to say without forming undulations along the sides pieces.

In the case of pieces 1 of fabric, the sides of the rhombus advantageously follow the bias of the fabric, which gives flexibility in the connection and better cohesion between the pieces.

In addition, the V-shaped parts that form the upper sides of the top row of parts 1a to 1d give off a neckline and armholes, which makes it possible to adapt a collar and sleeves of suitable shapes and free design.

Finally, it is possible to provide the garment with pockets integrated into a standard element, the dimensions of the latter being sufficient for this purpose.

Another example of a garment embodiment may consist in assembling only four basic pieces by their vertices situated at the ends of the small diagonals to form, for example, a blouse or even the basic element of a Bermuda shorts or even pants.

An additional embodiment consists of an assembly of parts on a support provided with attachment means compatible with those arranged along the assembly lines in rhombus or in fraction of a rhombus. We can thus obtain a skirt from a free-form belt or a bustier from a necklace.

In the foregoing, we have envisaged the production of a garment from pieces whose shape corresponds to that of the basic diamond pattern or a triangle fraction of this basic pattern.

The advantages resulting from the use of a basic diamond pattern are retained in the case where the constituent parts of the garment, or some of them have a non-diamond or triangle shape, since they include assembly lines which reproduce the basic diamond pattern or a fraction thereof inscribed inside the parts. When these parts are assembled, they then have free parts, outside the assembly lines. These free parts do not participate in the holding of the garment. They constitute, for example, flaps, as shown at 8 in FIG. 4, frills or other elements for aesthetic purposes.

The assembly of the parts can be achieved by means of removable snaps such as that illustrated in FIGS. 5A and 5B.

The press stud comprises a male part 10 and a female part 20 which pass through holes formed in the parts 1 to be assembled and fitted with metal eyelets 9 set in the material (fabric, leather or other) of the parts 1. The male part 10 comprises a head 11 extended by a rod 12 which, in its part projecting out of the eyelet 9 after having crossed the latter, has a first groove 13, for housing a metal annular retaining ring 14, and a second groove 15 separating the end 16 of the rod with a rounded profile from the rest of this rod. The female part 20 comprises a head 21 extended by a tubular part 22 at the end of which is formed a groove 23 for a metallic annular retaining ring 24. Longitudinal slots 25 are formed in the tubular part 22 sharing the latter in lamellae 26, up to the end thereof, to allow expansion of the female part.

During the assembly by pressure of the male and female parts, the end 16 of the male part penetrates into the female part by spreading the lamellae 26, until the rod 24 is at the level of the groove 15.

The snaps which have just been described have the advantage of being removable, after removal of the retaining rods, which makes it possible to exchange or return them according to the necessities of transformation of the garment. In addition, they allow great freedom of assembly of the pieces of the garment since they can be assembled front or back, above or below, and in several thicknesses as necessary.

The description which has just been made relates to the production of clothing for a human person but the invention also covers the production of clothing on a different scale. This is how, on a reduced scale, we can consider making doll clothes. Conversely, a higher scale factor will make it possible to produce, for example, stage costumes for giant models.

Claims (8)

1. Method for producing modulable garments by assembling pieces (1) having assembling lines (2) which define a single diamond-shaped basic design whose large diagonal is parallel to the main axis of the body, the contour of the or each part of the garment comprising, around the chest or the hips, a row of four pieces whose assembling lines define four diamond-shaped basic designs joined together by their angles situated at the ends of the small diagonals, the pieces having fastening means (3) provided at the angles and on the sides of the diamond shapes defined by the assembling lines (2).
2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the production of the garment further involves assembling accessory pieces, some of which at least (4, 5) have assembling lines defining a triangle-shaped design which constitutes a fraction of the diamond-shaped basic design.
3. Method according to claim 2, characterized in that some at least of the accessory pieces have an edge provided with a hem for sliding in a tape (6).
4. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the length (d) of the small diagonal of the diamond-shaped basic design (1) is selected to be substantially equal to a quarter of the chest or hip measurement corresponding to a standard size.
5. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the diamond-shaped basic designs (1) have a large diagonal substantially equal to twice the small diagonal.
6. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the pieces are pieces of fabric and the assembling lines are bias cut in the fabric.
7. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the fastening means are constituted by removable press-studs composed of a male part (10) and a female part (20) passing through eyes (9) crimped into the material constituting the basic pieces (1).
8. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it is used for producing dolls' clothes.

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