EP0362453A1 - Wear and ornamental article provided with insertions of a first fur into a second fur - Google Patents

Wear and ornamental article provided with insertions of a first fur into a second fur Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0362453A1
EP0362453A1 EP88440080A EP88440080A EP0362453A1 EP 0362453 A1 EP0362453 A1 EP 0362453A1 EP 88440080 A EP88440080 A EP 88440080A EP 88440080 A EP88440080 A EP 88440080A EP 0362453 A1 EP0362453 A1 EP 0362453A1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
fur
patterns
skin
skins
wear
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP88440080A
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German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Vincent Raimondi
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Ste "furskin" Sarl
Original Assignee
Ste "furskin" Sarl
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Ste "furskin" Sarl filed Critical Ste "furskin" Sarl
Priority to EP88440080A priority Critical patent/EP0362453A1/en
Publication of EP0362453A1 publication Critical patent/EP0362453A1/en
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C14—SKINS; HIDES; PELTS; LEATHER
    • C14B—MECHANICAL TREATMENT OR PROCESSING OF SKINS, HIDES OR LEATHER IN GENERAL; PELT-SHEARING MACHINES; INTESTINE-SPLITTING MACHINES
    • C14B15/00—Mechanical treatment of furs
    • C14B15/12—Finishing, e.g. pointing furs; Producing designs or patterns
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H41/00—Machines or appliances for making garments from natural or artificial fur

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a new item of clothing or ornament comprising inlays of at least a first fur in a second fur, and a method for the manufacture of such an element.
  • blankets in "patchwork” are also provided, formed for example of squares or triangles of fur of different colors; in this case also the aim is the decorative effect resulting from the variegated aspect of these covers whose constitution obligatorily involves elements of different origin and does not pretend in any way to simulate a unitary element comprising differentiated zones.
  • the present invention aims, on the contrary, to obtain elements such as pieces of clothing (jackets, capes, boleros ...) or of decoration (ties, stolens, ...), or of ornamentation (blankets,. ..), apparently made of a single fur, that is to say possibly coming from a single animal origin and worked individually, but comprising zones or patterns of different colors, simulating a colored impression on said single fur, then that in reality said zones or patterns are obtained by the known technique of incrustation of said patterns, coming from at least a first skin treated with a certain coloration, in a second skin treated with another coloration.
  • the invention therefore relates first of all to said elements, of unitary appearance, and comprising decorative patterns of a certain color distinguished from a background of another color.
  • the skins 1 and 2 are of different colors, two ties are therefore obtained, the first having the background color 1A and the inlays of color 2B and the second having the background color 2A and the inlays of color 1B.
  • Each tie is completed by the tail 4 (or 5) having the color of the inlays and, in the usual manner, by the eyes in rhinestones 3.
  • the patterns 1B and 2B being of identical shape and dimensions, they are obtained by cutting from of a single pattern, which ensures both the perfect adaptation in each skin of the patterns from the other skin. One thus obtains ties each appearing in a single piece printed in color.
  • each pattern is fixed to the bottom by means of a fur serger, the sewing being carried out on the leather side and therefore not appearing: the patterns seem to be obtained by colored printing on a unitary piece.
  • FIGS 2 and 3 illustrate two alternative embodiments:
  • FIG. 2 starting from two skins 11 and 12, joined lengthwise along the transverse seam 16, a double tie in a half 11A is obtained, in which an elongated motif 12B from the other half 12A, in which is embedded an elongated pattern 11B coming from the skin 11.
  • the tails 14 and 15 are also inverted. One's head only of the two original skins remains around the middle of the tie, with the eyes 13.
  • the four tails 25, 26, 27, 28 remain, as shown.
  • the back side of the skins is covered with a lining and, if necessary, a cord is provided for wearing the tie.

Abstract

New article intended for wear, decoration and ornament, characterised in that it consists of a first skin with fur into which are inserted patterns originating from at least one second skin with fur of identical characteristics but of different colours. <IMAGE>

Description

La présente invention concerne un nouvel élément d'habillement ou d'ornement comportant des incrustations d'au moins une première fourrure dans une seconde fourrure, ainsi qu'un procédé pour la fabrication d'un tel élément.The present invention relates to a new item of clothing or ornament comprising inlays of at least a first fur in a second fur, and a method for the manufacture of such an element.

Il est bien connu de réaliser des éléments d'habillement ou de décoration composés de fragments de fourrures de nature différente. Ainsi par exemple, on propose couramment sur le marché des manteaux ou des vestes constitués par des peaux d'une première fourrure à poils courts, telle que l'astrakan, ornés ou bordés d'une ou plusieurs bandes de fourrure à poils longs telle que le renard ou le vison. Il est bien évident que le but même de tels rapprochements entre fourrures différentes est de faire ressortir les effets esthétiques résultant de ce rapprochement délibéré, et non de créer l'illusion d'une fourrure "unique". De même, on propose également des couvertures en "patchwork" formées par exemple de carrés ou de triangles de fourrures de couleurs différents ; dans ce cas également le but visé est l'effet décoratif résultant de l'aspect bigarré de ces couvertures dont la constitution implique obligatoirement des éléments d'origine différente et ne prétend nullement simuler un élément unitaire comportant des zones différenciées.It is well known to make items of clothing or decoration composed of fragments of fur of a different nature. Thus, for example, coats or jackets commonly made up of skins of a first short-haired fur, such as astrakhan, are commonly offered on the market, decorated or bordered with one or more strips of long-haired fur such as the fox or the mink. It is obvious that the very purpose of such rapprochements between different furs is to bring out the aesthetic effects resulting from this deliberate rapprochement, and not to create the illusion of "unique" fur. Likewise, blankets in "patchwork" are also provided, formed for example of squares or triangles of fur of different colors; in this case also the aim is the decorative effect resulting from the variegated aspect of these covers whose constitution obligatorily involves elements of different origin and does not pretend in any way to simulate a unitary element comprising differentiated zones.

La présente invention vise au contraire l'obtention d'éléments tels que des pièces d'habillement (vestes, capes, boléros...) ou de décoration (cravates, étoles, ...), ou d'ornementation (couvertures, ...), apparemment réalisées en une fourrure unique, c'est-à-dire éventuellement provenant d'une origine animale unique et travaillées unitairement, mais comportant des zones ou motifs de couleurs différentes, simulant une impression colorée sur ladite fourrure unique, alors qu'en réalité lesdites zones ou motifs sont obtenus par la technique connue de l'incrustation desdits motifs, provenant d'au moins une première peau traitée d'une certaine coloration, dans une seconde peau traitée avec une autre coloration.The present invention aims, on the contrary, to obtain elements such as pieces of clothing (jackets, capes, boleros ...) or of decoration (ties, stoles, ...), or of ornamentation (blankets,. ..), apparently made of a single fur, that is to say possibly coming from a single animal origin and worked individually, but comprising zones or patterns of different colors, simulating a colored impression on said single fur, then that in reality said zones or patterns are obtained by the known technique of incrustation of said patterns, coming from at least a first skin treated with a certain coloration, in a second skin treated with another coloration.

L'invention vise donc en premier lieu lesdits éléments, d'apparence unitaire, et comportant des motifs décoratifs d'une certaine couleur se distinguant d'un fond d'une autre couleur.The invention therefore relates first of all to said elements, of unitary appearance, and comprising decorative patterns of a certain color distinguished from a background of another color.

Elle vise en second lieu un procédé pratique pour l'obtention de ces éléments, sans perte de matière.Secondly, it aims at a practical process for obtaining these elements, without loss of material.

A titre d'exemple illustratif, on va décrire l'application de l'invention à l'obtention de cravates bicolores en peaux de renard, en se référant au dessin annexé, sur lequel :

  • - les figures 1a et 1b illustrent l'obtention de deux cravates bicolores à partir de deux peaux de renard.
  • - la figure 2 illustre l'obtention d'une cravate double bicolore à partir de deux peaux de renard,
  • - la figure 3 illustre l'obtention d'une cravate quadricolore à partir de quatre peaux de renard et,
  • - les figures 4A et 4B illustrent un détail important de mise en oeuvre des procédés selon l'invention sous deux exemples d'application.
As an illustrative example, the application of the invention to the production of two-tone ties in fox skins will be described, with reference to the attached drawing, in which:
  • - Figures 1 a and 1 b illustrate the obtaining of two two-color ties from two fox skins.
  • FIG. 2 illustrates the obtaining of a two-tone double tie from two fox skins,
  • FIG. 3 illustrates the obtaining of a quadricolour tie from four fox skins and,
  • - Figures 4A and 4B illustrate an important detail implementing the methods according to the invention under two application examples.

En se référant tout d'abord aux figures 1a et 1b, qui permettent de comprendre l'essentiel de l'invention, on voit qu'à partir de deux peaux de renard 1 et 2, on peut créer deux cravates bicolores de couleurs différentes, en découpant dans la peau 1 des motifs 1B et dans la peau 2 des motifs identiques 2B, ce qui laisse un fond 1A et un fond 2A présentant chacun des fenêtres correspondantes, et en incrustant dans les fenêtres de la peau 1 les motifs 2B et dans les fenêtres de la peau 2 les motifs 1B.Referring first to Figures 1a and 1b, to understanding the essence of the invention, we see that from two fox skins 1 and 2, you can create two two-tone color ties different, by cutting into the skin 1 of the patterns 1B and into the skin 2 of the identical patterns 2B, which leaves a bottom 1A and a bottom 2A each having corresponding windows, and by embedding in the windows of the skin 1 the patterns 2B and in the windows of the skin 2 the patterns 1B.

Si les peaux 1 et 2 sont de couleurs différentes, on obtient donc deux cravates, la première ayant la couleur de fond 1A et les incrustations de couleur 2B et la seconde ayant la couleur de fond 2A et les incrustations de couleur 1B. Chaque cravate est complétée par la queue 4 (ou 5) ayant la couleur des incrustations et, de manière usuelle, par les yeux en strass 3. Les motifs 1B et 2B étant de forme et de dimensions identiques, ils sont obtenus par découpe à partir d'un patron unique, ce qui assure à la fois l'adaptation parfaite dans chaque peau des motifs provenant de l'autre peau. On obtient ainsi des cravates paraissant chacune en une seule pièce imprimée en couleur.If the skins 1 and 2 are of different colors, two ties are therefore obtained, the first having the background color 1A and the inlays of color 2B and the second having the background color 2A and the inlays of color 1B. Each tie is completed by the tail 4 (or 5) having the color of the inlays and, in the usual manner, by the eyes in rhinestones 3. The patterns 1B and 2B being of identical shape and dimensions, they are obtained by cutting from of a single pattern, which ensures both the perfect adaptation in each skin of the patterns from the other skin. One thus obtains ties each appearing in a single piece printed in color.

Sur le plan pratique, à partir de peaux de renard de couleur naturelle claire et préalablement tannées, on procède tout d'abord à l'opération de lustrage (coloration artificielle) dans le ton désiré. Ces peaux sont ensuite humidifiées et clouées afin d'obtenir une surface bien plane. Dès séchage, sur deux ou plusieurs peaux de couleurs différentes, on dessine au verso les motifs que l'on veut voir apparaître, on les découpe et on les transpose entre les différentes peaux. De même les queues sont transposées.On the practical level, starting from fox skins of light natural color and previously tanned, we first proceed to the buffing operation (artificial coloring) in the desired tone. These skins are then moistened and nailed to obtain a flat surface. Upon drying, on two or more skins of different colors, we draw on the back the patterns that we want to appear, we cut them and we transpose them between the different skins. Similarly, the tails are transposed.

Une fois les motifs et les queues recousus, on procède à un nouveau clouage afin d'absorber les coutures. Ensuite la peau ext dépoussiérée par battage afin de lui retirer l'exédent de poil de coupe.Once the patterns and tails are sewn together, a new nailing is carried out in order to absorb the seams. Then the outer skin dusted by beating in order to remove the excess cutting hair.

On procède ensuite à la naturalisation de la tête par humidification et séchage sur squelette de bois ou papier maché.We then proceed to the naturalization of the head by humidification and drying on a wooden skeleton or papier maché.

Cette opération terminée, on ébarbe la peau en supprimant les pattes avant et arrière et on referme le tout par couture ventrale.This operation finished, the skin is trimmed by removing the front and rear legs and the whole is closed by ventral seam.

Au final, on parfait le travail par un brillantage de la peau à la vapeur.In the end, we perfect the work by shining the skin with steam.

Enfin on rajoute sur la tête une paire d'yeux en strass. Sous le cou et sous la croupe, on rajoute deux mousquetons de métal doré reliés par une cordellière de passementerie tressée.Finally we add on the head a pair of eyes in rhinestones. Under the neck and under the rump, we add two carabiners of gilded metal connected by a braided cord of braiding.

Il convient d'insister sur le fait que, pour obtenir le résultat recherché, il est essentiel de découper les motifs sur des zones des deux peaux présentant une élévation de poil égale, pour éliminer tout risque de manque de concordance entre le fond et les motifs transposés d'une autre peau.It should be emphasized that, to obtain the desired result, it is essential to cut out the patterns on areas of the two skins with an equal hair elevation, to eliminate any risk of inconsistency between the background and the patterns transposed from another skin.

La transposition étant ainsi assurée avec précision, chaque motif est fixé au fond au moyen d'une surjeteuse à fourrure, la couture étant effectuée du côté cuir et n'apparaissant donc pas : les motifs semblent obtenus par impression colorée sur une pièce unitaire.The transposition being thus ensured with precision, each pattern is fixed to the bottom by means of a fur serger, the sewing being carried out on the leather side and therefore not appearing: the patterns seem to be obtained by colored printing on a unitary piece.

Les figures 2 et 3 illustrent deux variantes de réalisation :Figures 2 and 3 illustrate two alternative embodiments:

Sur la figure 2, en partant de deux peaux 11 et 12, réunies dans le sens de la longueur le long de la couture transversale 16, on obtient une cravate double dans une moitié 11A de laquelle est incrusté un motif allongé 12B provenant de l'autre moitié 12A, dans laquelle est incrusté un motif allongé 11B provenant de la peau 11. Les queues 14 et 15 sont également inversées. La tête de l'une seulement des deux peaux d'origine subsiste vers le milieu de la cravate, avec les yeux 13.In FIG. 2, starting from two skins 11 and 12, joined lengthwise along the transverse seam 16, a double tie in a half 11A is obtained, in which an elongated motif 12B from the other half 12A, in which is embedded an elongated pattern 11B coming from the skin 11. The tails 14 and 15 are also inverted. One's head only of the two original skins remains around the middle of the tie, with the eyes 13.

Sur la figure 3, en partant de quatre peaux 21, 22, 23, 24 de quatre couleurs différentes, assemblées dans le sens de la longueur le long des côtés 28-28′ et dans le sens de la largeur le long des côtés 27-27′, on incruste, respectivement :

  • - Dans le fond 21A, les motifs 22B,
  • - Dans le fond 22A, les motifs 21B et de même,
  • - Dans le fond 23A, le motif 24B
  • - Dans le fond 24A, le motif 23B.
In FIG. 3, starting from four skins 21, 22, 23, 24 of four different colors, assembled lengthwise along the sides 28-28 ′ and widthwise along the sides 27- 27 ′, we incrust, respectively:
  • - In the background 21A, the patterns 22B,
  • - In the background 22A, the patterns 21B and similarly,
  • - In the background 23A, the pattern 24B
  • - In the background 24A, the pattern 23B.

Dans ce cas, les quatre queues 25, 26, 27, 28 subsistent, comme représenté. La face postérieure dex peaux est recouverte par une doublure et, au besoin, une cordelière est prévue pour le port de la cravate.In this case, the four tails 25, 26, 27, 28 remain, as shown. The back side of the skins is covered with a lining and, if necessary, a cord is provided for wearing the tie.

Si l'on se reporte enfin aux figures 4A et 4B, on y a illustré un détail pratique très important dans la mise en oeuvre du procédé selon l'invention. En effet, la couture des incrustations d'une peau dans les fenêtres de l'autre peau a pour conséquence une certaine perte des dimensions desdites incrustations, qui deviennent légèrement plus petites que les fenêtres. Pour rattraper cette perte de dimensions, qui est de l'ordre de 1 mm en moyenne, on procède à un rétrécissement de chaque côté de chaque fenêtre, en créant une pince millimétrique de chaque côté. A cet effet, on peut, comme il est illustré en 29-29′ à la figure 4A, dans le cas d'une fenêtre allongée en 30 semblable à 11B-12B de la figure 2, créer une pince ouverte qui est ensuite recousue, ce qui provoque exactement le même rétrécissement que celui de l'incrustation. On peut également comme illustré à la figure 4B, qui illustre une incrustation en forme d'étoile 32, créer sur chaque côté de chaque branche de l'étoile un rétrécissement par simple couture au moyen d'un point plus gros 31.If we refer finally to Figures 4A and 4B, there is illustrated a very important practical detail in the implementation of the method according to the invention. Indeed, the sewing of the incrustations of one skin in the windows of the other skin results in a certain loss of the dimensions of said incrustations, which become slightly smaller than the windows. To make up for this loss of dimensions, which is of the order of 1 mm on average, we proceed to a narrowing on each side of each window, by creating a millimeter clamp on each side. For this purpose, one can, as illustrated in 29-29 ′ in FIG. 4A, in the case of an elongated window at 30 similar to 11B-12B in FIG. 2, create an open clamp which is then stitched up, which causes exactly the same shrinkage as the inlay. It is also possible, as illustrated in FIG. 4B, which illustrates a star-shaped inlay 32, to create on each side of each branch of the star a shrinkage by simple sewing using a larger stitch 31.

Bien entendu, les exemples ci-dessus ne sont donnés qu'à titre illustratif de la mise en oeuvre du procédé selon l'invention, et des produits en résultant, mais le domaine d'application de ce procédé s'étend à toutes les pièces d'habillement et de décoration en fourrure. Les peaux peuvent être de toute origine. Les motifs peuvent être géométirques ou de toute autre inspiration, telle que feuilles d'arbres, fleurs, cartes à jouer, etc...Of course, the above examples are only given by way of illustration of the implementation of the method according to the invention, and of the products resulting therefrom, but the field of application of this method extends to all parts. of clothing and decoration in fur. The skins can be of any origin. The patterns can be geometric or any other inspiration, such as tree leaves, flowers, playing cards, etc.

Claims (3)

1. Nouvel élément destiné à l'habillement, la décoration et l'ornementation, caractérisé en ce qu'il se compose d'une première peau à fourrure dans laquelle sont incurstés des motifs provenant d'au moins une seconde peau à fourrure de caractéristiques identiques mais de couleurs différentes.1. New element intended for clothing, decoration and ornamentation, characterized in that it consists of a first fur skin in which are embroidered patterns coming from at least a second fur skin of characteristics identical but different colors. 2. Procédé pour la réalisation d'un élément selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce qu'il consiste à découper simultanément dans au moins deux peaux de même origine, de même élévation de poil et de couleurs différentes, des motifs identiques, et à incruster dans les fenêtres en résultant dans chaque peau les motifs provenant d'une autre.2. Method for the production of an element according to claim 1, characterized in that it consists in simultaneously cutting from at least two skins of the same origin, of the same elevation of hair and of different colors, identical patterns, and inlay in the resulting windows in each skin the patterns from another. 3. Procédé selon la revendication 2, caractérisé en ce que, dans le but de rattraper la perte de dimension d'une incrustation par rapport à la fenêtre correspondante, on crée une pince millimétrique sur chaque côté de ladite fenêtre.3. Method according to claim 2, characterized in that, in order to make up for the loss of dimension of an inlay relative to the corresponding window, a millimeter clamp is created on each side of said window.
EP88440080A 1988-10-03 1988-10-03 Wear and ornamental article provided with insertions of a first fur into a second fur Withdrawn EP0362453A1 (en)

Priority Applications (1)

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EP88440080A EP0362453A1 (en) 1988-10-03 1988-10-03 Wear and ornamental article provided with insertions of a first fur into a second fur

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Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP88440080A EP0362453A1 (en) 1988-10-03 1988-10-03 Wear and ornamental article provided with insertions of a first fur into a second fur

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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN103103299A (en) * 2012-12-31 2013-05-15 天津应大股份有限公司 Method for manufacturing V-shaped decorative patterns on fur coat
CN103103300A (en) * 2012-12-31 2013-05-15 天津应大股份有限公司 Method for manufacturing protruded decorative patterns on fur coat

Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR714425A (en) * 1931-01-27 1931-11-13 Process for decorating furs used in the making of articles of furskin and leather goods
FR1332480A (en) * 1962-08-28 1963-07-12 Livio Levi Process for the preparation of striped furs with a herringbone pattern, in contrasting colors
FR2503992A1 (en) * 1981-04-16 1982-10-22 Grunstein Product Ab Oy PROCESS FOR PREPARING FUR ARTICLES
DE8533472U1 (en) * 1985-11-28 1986-01-30 Tanudjaja, Sastra, 2000 Hamburg Sheet-like fabric for the manufacture of articles of clothing
DE8535947U1 (en) * 1985-12-20 1986-02-20 Kräußlich Pelzmoden GmbH, 8801 Schnelldorf Fur or fur garment

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR714425A (en) * 1931-01-27 1931-11-13 Process for decorating furs used in the making of articles of furskin and leather goods
FR1332480A (en) * 1962-08-28 1963-07-12 Livio Levi Process for the preparation of striped furs with a herringbone pattern, in contrasting colors
FR2503992A1 (en) * 1981-04-16 1982-10-22 Grunstein Product Ab Oy PROCESS FOR PREPARING FUR ARTICLES
DE8533472U1 (en) * 1985-11-28 1986-01-30 Tanudjaja, Sastra, 2000 Hamburg Sheet-like fabric for the manufacture of articles of clothing
DE8535947U1 (en) * 1985-12-20 1986-02-20 Kräußlich Pelzmoden GmbH, 8801 Schnelldorf Fur or fur garment

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN103103299A (en) * 2012-12-31 2013-05-15 天津应大股份有限公司 Method for manufacturing V-shaped decorative patterns on fur coat
CN103103300A (en) * 2012-12-31 2013-05-15 天津应大股份有限公司 Method for manufacturing protruded decorative patterns on fur coat

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