Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/34—Alcohols
  • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur

Definitions

• the present invention is directed to a com­position and method for relatively permanently re­shaping or curling human hair into a lasting curl pattern. More particularly, the present invention is directed to a composition and method capable of forming a "permanent" wave in human hair such that regardless of the condition of the hair, i.e., whether it be substantially undamaged or normal hair, tinted hair, frosted hair, bleached hair or hair substantially damaged as a result of some other prior hair treatment or environmental condition, the composition will per­manently reshape both normal and damaged hair to sub­stantially the same extent.
• composition is applied to the hair as a single composition formula applied to both normal and damaged hair for the same period of time, with or without heating, as an alkaline wave composition to produce a strong curl like that of an alkaline permanent wave composition while leaving the hair feeling soft like an acid permanent wave composi­tion.
• the sulfur to sulfur cystine bonds are broken with a composition containing a reducing agent and after the hair is wound into a curl formation around a rod or roller, the sulfur to sulfur cystine bonds are relinked or reestablished while the hair is in the curl formation by contacting the hair in the new formation with an oxidizing agent, such as hydrogen peroxide or a water-soluble bromate.
• an oxidizing agent such as hydrogen peroxide or a water-soluble bromate.
• Permanent wave compositions or lotions used to break the cystine bonds in human hair generally known as acid wave compositions; alkaline wave compositions; and neutral wave compositions. Of these three, the acid and alka­line wave compositions are most significant commerci­ally.
• Permanent wave compositions containing an alka­line salt of thioglycolic acid (TG), such as ammonium thioglycolate as the reducing agent are generally known as alkaline wave compositions and generally have a pH in the range of about 7.5 to about 9.4.
• TG thioglycolic acid
• the alkaline wave compositions are known as the con­ventional cold wave compositions, since free alkali penetrates and swells the hair shaft allowing the reducing agent to enter the hair shaft and break the sulfur to sulfur bonds without added heat.
• the per­manent wave compositions containing glycerol monothio­glycolate (GMTG) are known as acid wave compositions even though the pH of these compositions can be as high as about 9.0.
• the acid per­manent wave compositions have a lower pH than the alkaline permanent wave compositions and, therefore, require heat and/or longer processing time to achieve sufficient reaction of the reducing agent.
• the alka­line permanent wave compositions produce a stronger, longer lasting curl while the acid permanent wave compositions provide a softer feel but a shorter curl duration.
• the reducing action of mercaptans on keratin is due mostly to the dissociated form of the thiol groups, the thiolate anion.
• Acid permanent waves sufficiently curl hair at a lower pH compared to alka­line permanents because the waving agents in these permanents have low pKa values and thus exist pre­dominantly in dissociated (thiolate) form at a pH near neutral, or slightly acidic pH.
• the pKa value shows that some mercaptans are efficient at high pH while others with a low pKa value and high ionization constant are efficient at lower pH values.
• the alkaline reducing agent combination of the composition and method of the present invention includes neither an amide reducing agent nor an ester reducing agent, yet is unexpectedly effective in the pH range of about 7.5 to 8.7 and particularly in the pH range of about 8.0 to 8.5.
• the acid permanent wave compositions having a lower pH include reducing agents such as bisulfites, e.g., ammonium bisulfite, or glycerol monothioglycolate, capable of breaking the sulfur to sulfur cystine bonds within lower pH ranges
• reducing agents such as bisulfites, e.g., ammonium bisulfite, or glycerol monothioglycolate
• the alkaline permanent wave compositions having pH's in the range of about 7.5 to 9.5, require an alkaline salt of thioglycolic acid - so that the alkali can penetrate and swell the hair shaft for easier penetration of the reducing agent in order to break the sulfur to sulfur cystine bonds.
• the reduc­ing agent breaks the sulfur to sulfur cystine hair bonds best under high pH conditions (above 9.0) and therefore is included in a lotion in an amount suffi­cient to provide enough free alkali in solution for a composition pH of about 7.5 to 9.5.
• the high pH can be provided with a different alkali in the reducing agent composition, such a monoethanol­amine, disopropanolamine or metal hydroxides.
• the lotion can be buffered, such as with ammonium bicar­bonate or other known buffers, to maintain a suitable pH.
• diammonium dithiodiglycolate in acid or alkaline permanent lotions allows greater flexibility in processing time because it minimizes the possibility of overprocessing. This is due to the fact that the reaction of thioglycolic acid (TGA) with hair keratin is an equilibrium process. Thus by including diammonium dithiodiglycolate (oxidized TGA) in the wave lotion, the rate of the reaction of the thioglycolic acid with hair keratin is decreased and prevented from going to completion.
• the permanent wave compositions of the prior art do not include moisturizers, such as glycerine, since moisturizers cause loss of curl, as disclosed in Cannell et al. U.S. Patent No. 4,301,820.
• One of the biggest problems associated with the permanent waving process is due to human error in the person applying the permanent waving lotion. If the reducing agent is applied to the hair shaft for the wrong period of time, too many or too few of the sulfur to sulfur bonds in the hair shaft are broken, resulting in seriously damaged hair or resulting in hair which has not been sufficiently treated to achieve a permanent wave with long lasting potential. Some of the reasons that the person applying the permanent wave composition has difficulty in determining the correct amount of time for processing is that the reducing agent reaction in breaking the sulfur to sulfur bonds is dependent upon the amount of heat applied to the hair; the amount of time the reducing agent is in contact with the hair; the concentration of reducing agent; the pH of the lotion applied; and the condition of hair.
• the hair can be damaged by abuse of chemicals, e.g., by shampooing, permanent waving, tinting, frosting, bleaching, and particularly any hair treatment involving the use of hydrogen per­oxide; mechanical treatment, e.g., thermal appliances; and environmental conditions, e.g., climate and pollu­tion. It is well known that damaged hair, depending upon the stage and degree of damage of the hair, has significantly different chemical activity to reducing agents than normal or undamaged hair. If too many of the sulfur to sulfur bonds in the hair are broken by the reducing agent, the hair will be seriously weakened and may disintegrate.
• the sulfur to sulfur cystine bonds reformed in the hair in the new or curled configuration when the hair is later oxidized with the neutralizing agent, should be stronger than the prior or natural cystine hair bonds. It is desired, therefore, when permanent waving, that enough new bonds in a new hair configuration are formed during permanent waving to outweigh the number of old bonds remaining that tend to form the hair in its prior or natural configuration, whether it be straight or natur­ally curled.
• every one of the hair shafts treated will contain the same ratio of broken to unbroken bonds so that this same ratio can be re-established in each hair shaft when the hair is in the new configuration to provide a consistent strong curl over the entire head of hair.
• the reducing agent lotion is applied to the hair by first shampooing the hair and then applying the reducing agent lotion to the hair, either before or after the hair is wrapped around suitable rollers. Since it is not possible for even the experienced permanent wave applied to accurately determine visually the extent of damage to the hair in order to have a better idea of how long the reducing agent should be in contact with the hair, it is neces­sary to take a "test curl" so that after a predeter­mined amount of time, for example about 10 minutes, a first roller is removed from the hair and the curl is felt and stretched in an attempt to determine if the curl formation is strong enough.
• the hair is rinsed thoroughly with water while still on the rollers or rods and, while the hair remains on the rollers or rods, a neutralizing agent is applied to oxidize and reform the sulfur to sulfur bonds while the hair is in the new, rolled configuration.
• the neutralizing agent contains an oxidizing agent, such as hydrogen peroxide or a bromate salt, in order to reestablish the sulfur to sulfur bonds to leave the hair in a relatively permanent, e.g., 2-4 months, new configura­tion.
• the neutralizing agent remains on the hair for approximately 5 to 10 minutes and then is rinsed thoroughly.
• the rods are removed, before or after rinsing out the neutralizing agent.
• the reducing agent lotion When the reducing agent lotion is applied to sections of the head prior to rolling that portion of the hair onto the rods it is called a lotion wrap whereas when the hair is rolled on the rods or rollers first and then the lotion applied onto all of the hair after rolling, this is called a water wrap.
• the timing for the reducing agent to be in contact with the hair for a lotion wrap is begun from the time that all rods are on the head, and the timing for a water wrap begins from the time that the lotion appli­cation is completed.
• the capability of using a water wrap is clearly more desirable since the lotion is applied to the entire head of hair all at once in a short period of time and can be rinsed from the hair all at once to provide a more uniform reducing agent contact time for all of the hair.
• an alkaline permanent wave composition in a single formula which can be applied in a single predetermined amount of time to the hair, regardless of the structure of the hair, whether it be damaged or not, and this composition is capable of being water wrapped without the use of a dryer, hair caps or other heat treatment to speed the reducing agent reaction.
• the composition of the present invention produces a strong curl like an alkaline wave composition yet leaves the hair feeling soft like an acid wave composi­tion.
• Prior art compositions containing a salt of thioglycolic acid as a reducing agent are known to produce a tight curl but leave the hair feeling harsh due to the high alkalinity content.
• Prior art acid wave compositions containing glycerol monothioglycolate as a reducing agent require the mixing of the reducing agent into a separate lotion immediately prior to use since glycerol monothioglycolate will hydrolyze in contact with water and therefore must be kept separ­ate until immediately prior to use. Further, the acid wave compositions generally require heat to help swell the hair for reaction with the reducing agent since the hair is not normally swelled sufficiently at the low pH of the acid wave compositions.
• the permanent wave compositions of the present invention solve the above-mentioned prior art deficiencies in both alkaline and acid permanent wave compositions.
• the present invention is directed to a single formula, mild, alkaline permanent wave conditioning composition and method of permanently waving or re-shaping human hair that provides a strong, long lasting curl like an alkaline permanent wave composition but leaves the hair soft like an acid permanent wave composition while minimizing further damage to already damaged hair.
• the compo­sition contains a water-soluble alkali salt of thio­glycolic acid, such as ammonium thioglycolate in an amount of about 2% to about 22% by weight, preferably about 4% to about 16% by weight; a water-soluble alka­line dithiodiglycolate, such as diammonium dithiodi­glycolate in an amount of about 0.1% to about 18% by weight, preferably about 0.1% to about 10% by weight; a hair softening and/or moisturizing agent, such as glycerine in an amount of about 0.1% to about 20% by weight, preferably about 0.1% to about 15% by weight; and sufficient additional alkali, if necessary, to bring the pH of the composition to about 7.5 to 8.7.
• a water-soluble alkali salt of thio­glycolic acid such as ammonium thioglycolate in an amount of about 2% to about 22% by weight, preferably about 4% to about 16% by weight
• composition is easy to use and apply without damaging the hair while providing a strong, tight curl and leaving the hair unexpectedly soft.
• the composition can be lotion or water wrapped and can be used with or without heat. Unexpectedly, the composi­tion is applied to any type of hair, regardless of structural damage to the hair, resulting in the same degree of curl tightness and softness.
• an object of the present inven­tion is to provide a new and improved permanent wave composition capable of breaking sulfur to sulfur bonds in human hair so that the hair can be reconfigured in a different configuration.
• the sulfur to sulfur human hair bonds can be reestablished with an oxidizing agent to maintain the new hair configuration for a substantial time period.
• Another object of the present invention is to provide a new and improved permanent wave lotion containing a reducing agent capable of breaking sulfur to sulfur hair bonds without causing further signifi­cant damage to tinted, frosted, bleached or other substantially damaged hair.
• Another object of the present invention is to provide a new and improved permanent wave lotion composition capable of breaking sulfur to sulfur human hair bonds leaving normal and damaged hair with ap­proximately the same ratio of broken to unbroken sulfur to sulfur bonds when contacted with the composition for the same time period so that the same degree of curl tightness can be achieved in both normal and damaged hair.
• Another object of the present invention is to provide a permanent wave composition including a hair softening and moisturizing agent that enhances the curl achieved with the composition.
• the present invention is directed to a per­manent wave composition capable of permanently waving both damaged and undamaged hair in a single formula­tion, water-wrap, applied for a constant processing time as a mild alkaline permanent which unexpectedly leaves the hair feeling soft like an acid wave, yet produces a tight, long lasting curl formation similar to that of an alkaline wave.
• the capability of per­manently waving both damaged and undamaged hair in a single formulation in a single processing time without requiring a test curl, without causing further damage to the hair is totally unique in the industry and removes all room for error from the person applying the permanent wave lotion.
• composition of the present invention is a single formula, mild, alkaline permanent wave condi­tioning composition capable of waving or re-shaping human hair and provides a strong, long lasting curl like an alkaline permanent wave composition while leaving the hair soft like an acid permanent wave composition without further damaging already damaged hair.
• the composition contains a water-­soluble alkaline salt of thioglycolic acid, such as ammonium thioglycolate in an amount of about 2% to about 22% by weight, particularly about 4% to about 16% by weight; a water-soluble alkaline dithiodigly­colate, such as diammonium dithiodiglycolate in an amount of about 0.1% to about 18% by weight particular­ly about 0.1% to about 10% by weight; and a hair mois­turizer and/or softener selected from a polyhydroxyl alkyl compound, a polyalkylene glycol glycerol ether, an ethoxylated fatty alcohol, a fatty alcohol poly­merized ether, and mixtures thereof in an amount of about 0.1% to about 20% by weight, particularly about 0.1% to about 15% by weight.
• a water-­soluble alkaline salt of thioglycolic acid such as ammonium thioglycolate in an amount of about 2% to about 22% by weight,
• the composition of the present invention includes a conditioner to improve the combing and manageability of the hair.
• suitable conditioners are the polymeric quaternary ammonium salts, such as Polyquaternium 1 through Polyquaternium 14, inclusive, conditioners defined on page 245, CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Third Edition, 1982, hereby incorporated by reference.
• the preferred con­ditioners are Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-10 and Polyquaternium-11.
• the conditioner when added, is included in an amount of about 0.01 to about 2.0% by weight of the composition.
• compositions of the present inven­tion can be in­corporated into the composition of the present inven­tion, as long as the basic properties of the permanent wave composition are not adversely affected.
• additives include, but are not limited to, commonly used fragrances, dyes, opacifiers, pearlescing agents, thickeners, foam stabilizers, preservatives, water softening agents, acids, bases, buffers and the like; and will usually be present in weight percentages of less than about 1% each, and about 2% to about 5% in total.
• the composition vehicle is predominantly water but organic solvents also can be added to the composi­tion in order to solubilize compounds that are not sufficiently soluble in water. Suitable solvents include the lower alcohols such as ethanol and iso­propanol and mixtures. These solvents can be present in the hair setting composition of the present inven­tion in an amount from about 1% to about 75% by weight and in particular from about 5% to about 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
• the composition optionally can be thickened, for example, with sodium alginate, gum arabic, cellu­lose derivatives such as methylcellulose, hydroxyethyl­cellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose and carboxy­methylcellulose, and various polymeric thickeners, such as acrylic acid derivatives. It is also possible to use inorganic thickeners such as bentonite. These thickeners, when included, preferably are present in an amount from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight and, in particular, from about 0.5% to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
• the moisturizer is capable of unexpectedly enhancing the curl formation achieved in accordance with the method of the present invention.
• the composition has a pH in the range of about 7.5 to 8.7.
• the composition has a pH of about 8.0 to 8.5 for best curl retention when cold waved. This pH can be achieved by the addition of an alkanolamine, ammonia, an ammonium carbonate, or a metal hydroxide to the composition of the present invention.
• moisturizers actually enhance the curl formation when included in the permanent wave composi­tion of the present invention.
• polyhydric alcohols or polyhydroxy alkane compounds such as ethylene glycol, glycerine, propylene glycol, or poly­oxyethylene glyceryl ether in this composition leaves the hair in better condition due to humectant proper­ties and suprisingly does not compromise curl forma­tion, but provides the hair with a more uniform and natural curl.
• moisturizers are selected from the group consisting of polyhydroxyalkyl compounds, par­ticularly alkylene glycols and polyalkylene glycols, and especially ethylene glycol and the polyethylene glycols; propylene glycol and the polypropylene gly­cols; polyethylene glycol glyceryl ethers; ethoxylated fatty alcohols; and fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers.
• moisturizers examples include glycols and triols such as glycerine, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol,1,3-butylene glycol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 1,5-­pentanediol, 2-methyl pentanediol-2,4, and 2-ethyl hexanediol-1,3.
• glycols and triols such as glycerine, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol,1,3-butylene glycol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 1,5-­pentanediol, 2-methyl pentanediol-2,4, and 2-ethyl hexanediol-1,3.
• the polyalkylene glycols that can be used as moisturizers in the permanent wave composi­tion of the present invention are exemplified by, but not limited to, compounds such as polyethylene glycol 200; polyethylene glycol 400; polyethylene glycol 600; polypropylene glycol 150; tetraethylene glycol; and dipropylene glycol.
• moisturizers examples include the polyethylene glycol glyceryl ethers, such as polyethylene glycol 600 glyceryl ether and poly­ethylene glycol 26 glyceryl ether.
• ethoxylated nonyl phenols and ethoxylated octyl phenols particularly nonoxynol, C9H19C6H4(OCH2CH2) n -­OH, wherein n averages at least 6 and up to about 100; and octoxynol, C8H17C6H4(OCH2CH2) n -OH, wherein n averages at least 7 and up to about 40, also are suit­able moisturizers for use in the composition of the present invention.
• Suitable ethoxylated fatty alcohols for use as moisturizers in the composition of the present invention include compounds having the formula R-(OCH2CH2) n OH, wherein R is an alkyl group containing from about 12 to about 30 carbon atoms and n averages at least 6.
• the composition of the present invention is easy to use and apply without damaging the hair while providing a strong, tight curl and leaving the hair unexpectedly soft.
• the composition can be lotion or water wrapped and can be used with or without heat. Unexpectedly, the composition is applied to any type of hair, regardless of structural damage to the hair, resulting in the same degree of curl tightness and softness.
• alkaline permanent wave compositions fall into one of two categories.
• the first category comprising about 90% of the alka­line permanent market, is alkaline permanents that require one lotion for normal hair and a different lotion for tinted hair: examples of compositions now being marketed that fall into this category are LUXURIANCE by Helene Curtis; DESIGN FREEDOM by Zotos and OPTI-FORM by Wella.
• the second category of alka­ line permanents include a single lotion for both normal and tinted hair and comprises about 10% of the alkaline permanent market.
• Examples of those alkaline permanent wave compositions that require test curls include EXACTA by Matrix; EURAWAV by Bonat and SCRUPLES by Professional Salon Products.
• Examples of alkaline permanent wave compositions that require the use of a dryer to fix the processing time include CONTINUUM by Helene Curtis and SCRUPLES by Professional Salon Products.
• composition of the present invention is an alkaline permanent wave composition capable of treating both normal and damaged hair, particularly tinted hair and bleached hair, in a single formula, using a single, predetermined processing time for both normal and damaged hair and requires neither a test curl to deter­mine the processing time nor a dryer to fix the proces­sing time.
• a moistur­izer such as glycerine
• glycerine glycerine
• the alkaline permanent wave composition of the present invention actually enhances the springiness and permanency of the curl imparted by the alkaline permanent wave composition - exactly opposite to the prior art recognized problem of loss of curl when a softener or moisturizer is included within the alkaline permanent wave composi­tion, such as disclosed in the Cannell et al U.S. Pat. No. 4,301,820.
• Table I shows examples of leading alkaline and acid permanents in terms of wrap­ping, processing time and test curl and shows that the composition of the present invention is the only alkaline permanent capable of achieving permanent waving of both normal and damaged hair in a single processing time without a test curl while achieving the long lasting curl effects of an alkaline permanent: TABLE I # of Different Lotions Type of Hair Water or Lotion Wrap Process Time Test Curl PRESENT INVENTION 1 Normal Water 20 Min. No Tinted Water 20 Min. No DESIGN FREEDOM (Alkaline) By: Zotos 2 Normal Water 20 Min. No Normal Lotion 10 Min. No Tinted Water 15 Min. No Tinted Lotion 5 Min. Yes EXACTA (Alkaline) By: Matrix 1 Normal Water 20 Min.
• Polyhydric alcohol e.g. glycerine, or a polyethylene glycol ether of a Polyhydric Alcohol e.g. a polyethylene glycol ether of glycerin, e.g. glycereth-26 0.1-15%

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• 1988
  • 1988-05-31 US US07/200,614 patent/US4913900A/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
• 1989
  • 1989-05-27 EP EP19890109581 patent/EP0344653A3/de not_active Withdrawn
  • 1989-05-29 NZ NZ229322A patent/NZ229322A/xx unknown
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