EP0343447A2

EP0343447A2 - Basic formula of active layout drawing in pants tailoring

Info

Publication number: EP0343447A2
Application number: EP89108546A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Ding Shan Huang
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 1988-05-24
Filing date: 1989-05-12
Publication date: 1989-11-29
Also published as: CN1038926A; EP0343447A3; JPH02182904A

Abstract

A basic formula of active layout drawing in pants tailoring to make use of all the data obtained from measure around the waist line, measure around the hip between waist line and hip, measure around the hip, front measure from waist line to gore bottom, back measure from waist line to gore bottom, measure of full gore line, measure around the upper thigh, measure around the middle thigh, measure around the knee, measure around the calf, and the determination of the position of the middle thigh for making an active layout drawing to fit all kinds of figures of the body.

Description

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to a basic formula of an active layout drawing in pants tailoring and more particularly a basic formula to measure the figure of human body so as to alternatively fit the differences in body figure.
Regular layout drawing in tailoring is unvarying and can not help to discover the defect in body figure for conpensation in advance, thereby misfit happens quite often and further alteration is usually required. Therefore, regular layout drawing technique is not perfectly applicable in mass production. The main object of the present invention is to provide a right technique in body figure measurement and a basic formula of active layout drawing in pants tailoring so as to promote the quality, reduce the loss, and increase the productivity and the profit.
Another object of the present invention is to provide an active layout drawing technique such that the dress maker can easily handle with the variation in body figure while tailoring to prevent any further alteration.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

Figure 1-6 show the measuring technique applied according to the present invention.
Figure 7-14 show the drawing process of the layout drawing technique according to the present invention.
Figure 15 shows a basic layout drawing obtained according to the present invention.
Figure 16-19 show the practical measure according to the present invention.
Figure 20 shows the completion of the layout drawing of the front piece in paints tailoring according to the present invention.
Figure 21 shows the completion of the layout drawing of the back piece in paints tailoring according to the present invention.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENT

Please refer to Figure 1-6 regarding to the measuring technique applied in the present invention.
Measure around the waist line (1) (referring to Figure 1): To measure at the front by fixing the position of the waist line.
Measure around the lower waist line 1 (2): To measure at the front around the hip 5cm below the waist line.
Measure around the lower waist line 2 (3): To measure at the front around the hip 10cm below the waist line.
Measure around the hip 1 (4) (referring to Figure 2): To measure around the highest part of the hip. Then measure the depth from the waist line to the hip.
Measure around the hip 2 (5): Measure around the bottom of the hip. The measure the depth from the waist line to the bottom of the hip.
Measure of the front upper thigh (6) (referring to Figure 3): To measure the depth from the waist line to the bottom of the gore at the front.
Measure of back upper thigh (7): To measure the depth from the waist line to the bottom of the gore at the back. The size of the recession at the waist line is obtained by measuring the deflection from the vertical line along the back of the hip to the waist line.
Measure of the full length of the gore (8) (referring to Figure 4): To measure from the front waist line to the opposite side of the back waist line through the gore.
Middle thigh positioning (9): To set at a point 12cm below the back gore.
Measure around the middle thigh (10): To measure around the thigh from the point set by middle thigh positioning (9) and write down the depth from the waist line to the middle thigh.
Measure around the upper thigh (11): To measure around the upper leg from the point 2.5cm below the gore and write down the depth from the waist line to the upper thigh.
Measure around the knee (12): To measure around the leg 4cm above the knee and write down the depth from the waist line.
Measure around the calf (13): To measure around the largest part of the calf and write down the depth from the waist line.
Measure around the ankle (14) : To measure around the ankle and write down the depth from the waist line.
Measure of the full length of the pants (15): To measure the full length of the pants laterally from the waist line to a length in accordance with requirement.
Measure of the size of the recession at the middle thigh (16) (referring to figure 5): To measure from the vertical line along the abdomen to the middle thigh.
Measure of the recession at the middle thigh of the middle aged (17) (referring to figure 6): To measure the recession from the vertical line along the abdomen to the middle thigh as above described.
Use the data obtained from the above mentioned measuring technique to draw up a layout according to the formula described hereinafter:
The basic layout drawing for the front piece is as shown in Figure 7.
Select a free point (1) to draw a vertical line and a horizontal line, then taking a fixed point (2) downward along the vertical line from the point (1) at a distance of the measure of the front upper thigh plus 2cm and draw a horizontal line from the fixed point (2); measure a distance of 1/16 of the measure around the hip 1 from the fixed point (2) rightward along the horizontal line to obtain a fixed point (3), then set a fixed point (4) at 2cm leftward from the point (3) and set a fixed point (5) at 1.6cm leftward from the point (4); draw a vertical line downward from the point (5) and obtain a point (6) at 12cm below the point (5), then draw a curved line from the point (4) to the point (6); set a point (7) at 5cm downward along the vertical line from the point (1) and draw a horizontal line from the point (7) as for the measure around the lower waist line 1; set a point (8) at 10cm downward along the vertical line from the point (1) and draw a horizontal line from the point (8) as for the measure around the lower waist line 2; set a point (9) at 22cm downward along the vertical line from the point (1) and draw a horizontal line from the point (9) as for the measure around the hip 1; set a point (10) at 28cm downward along the vertical line from the point (1) and draw a horizontal line from the point (10) as for the measure around the hip 2; set a point (11) leftward from the point (1) along the horizontal line at a distance of 1.5cm equal to the obtained from the size of the recession at the middle thigh, then draw a curved line from the point (11) to the point (9) and draw a front gore line from the point (9) to the point (4); set a point (12) at 1.3cm downward along the curved line from the point (11) and obtain a cross point (7′) and a cross point (8′) at the respective cross points between the curved line from the point (11) and the horizontal line from the point (7) and the horizontal line from the point (8); set a point (13) at 1/4 of the measure around the waist line leftward along the horizontal line from the point (11); set a point (14) at 1/4 of the measure around the lower waist line 1 leftward from the point (7′) along the horizontal line of the point (7) (slack maybe considered according to requirement); set a point (15) at 1/4 of the measure around the lower waist line 2 leftward from the point (8′) along the horizontal line of the point (8) (slack may be considered according to requirement); set a point (16) leftward from the point (9) along the horizontal line at a distance equal to 1/4 of the measure around the hip 1 plus the slack (1.3cm in the embodiment) and minus 1cm; set a point (17) leftward along the horizontal line from the point (10) at a distance equal to 1/4 of the measure around the hip 1 plus the slack 1.3cm and minus 1cm; as shown in Figure 8, draw a horizontal line leftward from the point (6) and use a curve to connect the points (13) (14) (15) (16) (17) and to obtain a point (18) at the cross point with the horizontal line from point (6); set point (19) at the center between point (6) and point (18), then draw a vertical line downward from the point (19), and then draw a horizontal line at point (20) according to the full length of the pants from the horizontal line of the point (1); set point (21) along the vertical line through the point (19) from the horizontal line of the point (1) according to the depth from the waist line to the calf line and draw a horizontal line through the point (21) thus obtained, then set points (22) and (23) at 1/4 of the measure around the calf leftward and rightward respectively along the horizontal line through the point (21); set points (24) and (25) at 1cm inward respectively from point (6) and point (18); set points (26) and (27) at 1cm extending outward respectively from the points (22) and (23) along the horiazontal line; set a point (28) along the vertical line through the point (19) from the horizontal line of the point (1) according to the depth from the waist line to the knee, and draw a horizontal line through the point (28) as a line for the measure around the knee; draw a line to connect points (24) and (26) and another line to connect points (18) and (27) so as to obtain points (30) and (29) at the respective cross points with the horizontal line of the point (20); as shown in Figure 10, draw a line through point (6) and another line through point (18) to connect points (26) and (29) and points (27) and (30) respectively so as to complete the internal side line and the external side line, and the area beyond the points (13) (14) and (15) is prepared for folding; the layout drawing process for the back piece is as shown in figure 11, set a point (31) at 1.3cm leftward from the point (9) along the horizontal line, then draw a vertical line from the point (31), and set a point (32) at 2.5cm below the point (31) along the vertical line; draw a line from the point (32) to incline leftward in a length equal to 1cm + 1/4 of the measure around the hip + 1.3cm and to cross with the horizontal line of the point (9) so as to obtain a point (38); set a point (33) leftward along the inclined line of the point (32) at a distance equal to the measure of the recession at the back waist line as obtained from the measure of the back upper thigh (7), then draw a vertical line through the point (33) against the line between the point (32) and the point (38), and set a point (34) downward along this vertical line at a distance equal to the distance between points (9) and (2), then set a point (35) upward along the vertical line at a distance equal to the measure of the back upper thigh + 2.5cm; set a point (36) AT 1CM leftward from the point (32) and draw a line to connect points (36) and (35), then set a point (37) at 8cm from the point (35) where the line that extends from points (35) and (36) is passing through;please refer to Figure 12, set a point (39) below the point (35) at a distance equal to the size between point (1) and point (7), and draw a horizontal line through the point (39) as for the position of the lower waist line 1 of the back piece, then draw a line from the point (39) inclining upper leftward to a distance equal to 1/4 of the measure around the lower waist line 1 to cross with the horizontal line of the point (7′) so as to obtain a cross point (40); set a point (41) below the point (35) at a distance equal to the size between points (1) and (8), and draw a horizontal line through the point (41) as for the position of the lower waist line 2 of the back piece, then draw a line from the point (41) inclining upper leftward to a distance equal to 0.5cm + 1/4 of the measure around the lower waist line 2 to cross with the horizontal line of the point (8′) so as to obtain a cross point (42); draw a curved line through the point (41) and the point (32) to cross with the horizontal line of the point (10) so as to obtain a cross point (43), set a point (44) leftward along the horizontal line of the point (10) at a distance equal to 1cm + (1/4 of the measure around the hip 2 + 1.3cm); please refer to Figure 13, draw a side line to connect points (40) (42) (38) (44) and to obtain a cross point (45) against the horizontal line of the point (19); draw a vertical line through point (19) against the horizontal line between points (38) and (32) to obtain a cross point (46) and another cross point (47) at the bottom, the point (47) is the center point of the bottom leg of the back piece of the paints; draw a central line to connect points (46) and (47) and then draw a line through the point (47) vertically against the central line, the cross point (48) between the central line and the line through the point (47) vertically against the central line is arranged leftward from the point (47) at a distance equal to 2cm + the distance between points (20) and (30), and a point (49) is obtained in the same manner; meassure the distance between points (21) and (27) then use a triangular to draw an inclined line vertically against the center line so as to obtain a cross point (51) at the extension of the horizontal line through the point (21) and also to obtain an opposite point (50) rightward against point (51) in equal distance; in the same manner described above to obtain a point (52) and a point (53) from the width through the point (28); please refer to Figure 14, set points (54) and (55) along the line through points (52) and (53) and the line through points (50) and (51) at a location 2cm outward bilaterally (the extension of 2cm is adjustable according to requirement): draw a line extending rightward from the point (37) to a position equal to the distance of 1/8 of the measure around the hip - 1.3cm so as to obtain a point (56); draw an internal back side line (57) to connect the point (56) and the point (54); draw a back gore line (58) to connect points (35) (39) (41) (32) and (56), (the location of the point (56) is adjustable to keep the back gore line be in accordance with the measure of the full gore length); draw a line from the point (45) vertically against the central line to be in cross with the internal back side line (57) so as to obtain a cross point (60), and the distance between points (45) and (60) indicates the width of the back piece; draw a front side line (61) to connect points (45) and (55) so as to complete the layout drawing of the basic model for pants tailoring as shown in Figure 15.
Please refer to the practical measure as shown in Figure 16-19. In the present preferred embodiment, the features of the practical measure are described hereinafter:
Measure of the depth of the gore (A): From the horizontal of the bottom of the gore to the waist line (27cm in the embodiment).
Measure around the waist line (B): One circle around the middle waist line (72cm in the embodiment).
Measure around the abdomen 2 (C): One circle around the extruding part of the abdomen (92cm in the embodiment),. The depth from the waist line (B) to the abdomen 2 (C) is the depth 2 (C1) (10cm in the embodiment).
Measure around the abdomen 1 (D): One circle around the abdomen between the waist line (B) and the abdomen 2 (C). The depth from the waist line (B) to the abdomen 1 (D) is the depth 1 (D1) (5cm in the embodiment).
Measure around the hip 2 (E): One circle around the largest part of the hip (96cm in the mebodiment). The circle around the bottom of the hip from the extruding point of the abdomen is the measure (E1) (100cm in the embodiment). The depth from the waist line (B) to the hip 2 (E) is the depth 4 (E4) (23cm in the embodiment).
Measure around the hip 1 (F): One circle around the hip between the hip line 2 (E) and the abdomen 2 (C) (95cm in the embodiment). The depth from the waist line (B) to the hip line 1 (F) is the depth 3 (F1) (17cm in the embodiment).
Measure around the hip 3 (G): ne circle around the hip at the bottom of the gore (94cm in the embodiment). The depth from the waist line to the hip 3(G) is the depth 5 (G1) (29cm in the embodiment).
Measure around the middle thigh (H): One circle around the leg between the knee and the bottom of the gore (48cm in the embodiment). The depth from the waist line to the middle thigh (H) is the depth 6 (H1) (42cm in the embodiment).
Measure around the knee (1): ne circle around the knee (37cm in the embodiment). The depth from the waist line to the knee (I) is the depth 7 (I1) (56cm in the embodiment).
Measure around the calf (J): One circle around the largest part of the calf (33cm in the embodiment). The depth from the waist line to the calf (J) is the depth 8 (J1) (71cm in the embodiment).
Measure around the ankle (K): One circle around the ankle (23cm in the embodiment). The depth from the waist line to the ankle (K) is the depth 9 (K1) (94cm in the embodiment).
Measure of the front length (L): From the front of the waist line (B) downward vertically to the horizontal (97.5cm in the embodiment).
Measure of the side length (M): From one side of the waist line (B) downward vertically to the horizontal (99.5cm in the embodiment).
Measure of the back length (N): From the back of the waist line (B) downward vertically to the horizontal (97.5cm in the embodiment).
Measure of the full length of the gore (O): From the front of the waist line through the bottom of the gore to the back of the waist line (72.5cm in the embodiment).
Measure of the recession at the back waist line (F): The depth of the recession at the back waist line in comparison with the hip line (4cm in the embodiment).
Measure of side curve (Q): 2easure the curve laterally along the waist line, abdomen, hip to the thigh for reference in layout drawing.
Please refer to the basic model (T) of the front piece as shown in Figure 20. Draw a horizontal line (1) on the upper side and draw a vertical line (2) against the horizontal line (1) to cross each other at left side at a cross point (3); set a point (4) downward along the vertical line (2) at a location equal to the distance of the difference between the front length (L) and the side length (M) (2cm); set a point (5) downward along the vertical line (2) at a location equal to the distance of the depth 4 (E4) (23cm); draw a horizontal line leftward from the point (5) and set a point (7) leftward along the horizontal line at a distance equal to 1/2 of the difference between the measure of (E) and the measure of (E1) (2cm); set a point (9) leftward along the horizontal line (6) from the point (7) at a distance equal to 1/4 of the measure (E) (24cm), then draw a vertical line (10) through the point (9) to cross with the horizontal line (1) of the point (11); set a point (12) and a point 913) respectively downward along the vertical line (10) and (2) from the point (11) and the point (14) at a distance equal to the depth 2 (C3) (10cm) and draw a line (14) to connect points (12) and (13); set a point (15) and a point (16) respectively downward along the vertical line (10) and the line (2) from the point (11 and the point (4) at a distance equal to the depth 1 (D1) (5cm) and draw a line (17) to connect the point (15) and the point (16); draw an oblique line (18) to connect the point (13) and the point (7) and another oblique line (19) to connect the point (16) and the point (17) so as to obtain a cross point (20) at the horizontal line (14); set a point (21) downward along the vertical line (10) from the point (11) at a distance equal to the depth 3 (F1), then draw a horizontal line (22) rightward from the point (21) to respectively cross with the oblique lines (18) and (19) at the cross points (24) and (23); set a point (25) leftward along the horizontal line (22) from the point (23) or (24) at a distance equal to 1/4 of the measure (F) (1/4 of 95cm = 23.75cm); set a point (26) leftward along the horizontal line (14) from the point (20) or (13) at a distance equal to 1/4 of the measure (G) (1/4 of 92cm = 23cm); set a point (27) leftward along the horizontal line (17) from the point (16) at a distance equal to 1/4 of the measure (D) (1/4 of 85cm = 21cm); set a point 928) along the horizontal line (1) at a distance from the point (4) equal to 1/4 of the measure (B) 91/4 of 72cm = 18cm); set a point (29) downward along the vertical inie (2) from the point 94) at a distance equal to 0.5cm + the measure (A) (27cm) and draw a horizontal line (30) rightward from the point (29) and then set a point (40) rightward along the horizontal line (30) at a distance equal to 1/24 of the measure (E); set a point (41) along the horizontal line (30) about 2cm leftward from the point (40) and draw a vertical line (42) downward from the point (41), then set a point (43) along the vertical line (42) at 13.5cm from the the point (41); set a point (44) upward along the vertical line (2) from the point 929) at a distance equal to 1/16 of the measure (E) - 1cm; draw a curved line (45) to connect the point (44) and the point (40); set a point (46) along the vertical line (10) downward from the point (11) at a distance equal to the depth 5 (G1) (29cm) and then draw a vertical line (47) rightward from the point (46) to cross with the vertical line (8) of the point (7) at a cross point (48); set a point (49) along the horizontal line (47) leftward from the point (48) at a distance equal to 1/4 of the measure (G) (1/4 of 94cm = 23.5cm); draw a line 950) from the point (40) passing through the point (43); set a point (51) along the vertical line 910) downward from the point (11) at a distance equal to the depth 6 (H1) (42cm), then draw a horizontal line (52) rightward from the point (51) to cross with the curved line (50) at a cross point (53); draw a rightward line from the point (9) passing through the point (46) or (49) to cross with the horizontal line (52) at a cross point (55); set a point (56) at the center between the point (55) and the point (53) along the horizontal line (52) and draw a vertical line (57) downward from the point (56) to the horizontal line determined as for the bottom of the pants; set a point (58) along the vertical line (57) at a distance equal to the depth 7 (I1) from the horizontal line (1) (56cm) and then draw a horizontal line 959) through the point (58); set a point (60) along the vertical line (57) at a distance equal to the depth 9 (K1) from the horizontal line (1) and then draw a horizontal line (61) through the point (60); set a point (62) at 2.5cm below the point (60) along the vertical line (57) and draw a line 963) horizontally through the point (62); set a point (64) at 2cm (more or less according to requirement) leftward from the point (62) along the horizontal line (63) and then draw a line (65) to connect the point (56) and the point (64); set a point (66) downward along the vertical line (65) from the horizontal line (1) at a distance equal to the depth 8 (J1) and draw a horizontal line (67) and another horizontal line (68) through the point (66) vertically against the line (65), then set the left point (70) and the right point (69) along the lines (67) and (68) respectively from the point (66) at a distance equal to 1/4 of the measure (J) (1/4 of 33cm = 8.25cm); set a point (32) and a point (71) respectively along the horizontal line (63) from the point (64) at an expected distance (8.5cm in the embodiment); set a point (72) rightward from the point (69) along the line (68) at a preferred distance (2cm in the embodiment) and draw an oblique line (73) to connect the point (71) and the point (72), then use a triangular with one side close to the oblique line (73) and another side aimed at the point (64) to draw a line through the point (64) vertically against the oblique line (73) so as to obtain a cross point (74); draw a line to connect the oblique line (73) and the curved line (50) so as to complete the internal side line (75) for the front piece; the cross point between the internal side line (75) and the horizontal line (59) is the point (76); set a point (77) at a preferred distance (2cm in the embodiment) leftward from the point (70) along the line (67) and draw a line (78) to connect the point (32) and the point (77), then draw properly a curved line (54) from the point (21) of the vertical line (10) passing through the point (55) and draw another line (79) to be in contact with the line (78) so as to complete the external side line, thus a cross point (80) is obtained between the line (79) and the horizontal line (59); use a triangular with one side close to the line (78) through the point (32) and with another side aimed at the point (64) to draw a horizontal line passing through the point (64) so as to obtain a cross point (81); please refer to the following description accompanying with the Figure 6, set a point (82) leftward from the point (7) along the horizontal line (6) at a distance equal to 1/2 of the measure (P) (1/2 of 4cm = 2cm); set a point (83) below the horizontal line (1) along the vertical line through the point (56) at a distance equal to the difference between the measure (N) and the measure (M) (99.5cm - 97.5cm = 2cm), then use a triangular with one side close to the point (83) and with the opposite side close to the point (82) to respectively draw a horizontal line and a vertical line (84) so as to obtain a cross point (85), (or use a triangular with both restangular sides respectively aimed at the point (83) and the point (82) letting the horizontal line through the point (83) be inclined upward at left side below the horizontal line 91) and then irregularly draw a rectangular line, for example, if the measure (N) is over the measure (M), the horizontal line along the triangular is arranged at least 0.5cm below the point (109) at the left side and then an irregularly rectangular line is drawn through the point (87) and the point (83)); draw a curved line close to the vertical line (84) from a point 4cm below the point (85) passing through the point (7) to form a gore line (86) fob the back piece; set a point (87) downward from the point (85) at a distance equal to the measure (D1) and draw an inclined line (88) to connect the points (87) and (15), then set a point (89) leftward from the point (87) along the inclined line (88) at a distance 1/4 of the measure (D) (1/4 of 84cm = 21cm); set a point (90) downward from the point (85) along the line (86) at a distance equal to the measure (C1) (10cm) then draw an inclined line (91) to the point (12), then set a point (92) leftward from the point (90) along the line (91) at a distance equal to 1/4 of the measure (c) (1/4 of 92cm = 23cm); set a cross point (93) between the gore line (86) and the vertical line (22) and then set a point (94) leftward from the point (93) along the vertical line (22) at a distance equal to 1/4 of the measure (F) (1/4 of 95cm = 23.75cm); set a cross point (95) between the gore line (86) and the horizontal line (47), then set a point (96) leftward from the point (95) along the horizontal line (47) at a distance equal to 1/4 of the measure (G) (1/4 of 94cm = 23.5cm); set a point (97) leftward from the point (64) along the horizontal line (63) at a preferred distance (1.5cm in the embodiment) and draw an oblique line (98) from the point (56) to the point (97); draw a line to connect the point (97) and the point (74) and set a point (99) at a preferred distance (8.5cm in the embodiment), then set a point (100) leftward from the point (97) along the line (63) at a preferred distance 98. 5cm in the embodiment); set a point 9102) leftward from the point (77) along the line (67) extending through the point (77) at a preferred distance (same distance between point (66) and point (77) in the front piece), then draw a straight line (101) to connect the points (100) and (102) and draw a side line (103) to be in communication with the side line (54) and the straight line (101) up to the point (9); draw a curved line (104) to connect the points (26) and (9) according to the distance equal to 1/4 of the measure (C) to obtain a right size for the waist line: set the cross point of the curved line (104) and the horizontal line (1) as point (105); set the cross point of the curved line (104) and the lines (88) and (17) as point (107); draw a side line (108) from the point (9) to the horizontal line for the front piece as well as for the back piece within a preferred range; set the cross point of the side line (108) and the horizontal line (1) as point (109); set the cross point of the side line 9108) and the horizontal line (22) as point (110), set the cross point of the side line (108) and the inclined lines (14) and (91) as point (111), and set the cross point of the side line (108) and the inclined lines (17) and (88) as point (112); draw a curved line (113) with a curve to connect the points (4) and (109); use a triangular with one side close to the side line (108) and with another side crossing through the horizontal line of the point (83) letting the right angle aimed at the point (109) to draw a line (114) from the point (109) to the horizontal line of the point (83), then draw a curved line (115) to connect the horizontal line of the point (83) and the line (114); set a point (116) rightward from the cross point of the line (68) and the line (98) along the line (68) at a preferred distance (same size as the distance between point (66) and point (77) in the front piece), then draw a straight line to connect the points (99) and (116), then use a triangular with one side close to the line (117) and with another side aimed at the point (97) to draw a bottom line; according to the distance equal to the difference between the measure (O) (72cm in the embodiment) and the length of the gore in the front piece (30cm), draw a line from the point (4) through the point (44) to connect the curved line (45) up to the point (40); according to the length of the gore in the back piece (42cm in the embodiment) draw a line from the point (85) through the line (86), the point (87), the point (90), the point (93) and the point (7) and extending outward to a point (119) in an arch shape to complete a gore line for the back piece; according to the internal side length of the front piece, draw a line from the point (74) through the point (72) to connect the line (43) up to the point (40) so as to complete an internal side line for the back piece (68cm in the embodiment), then, according to the distance equal to the internal side length of the front piece minus 1.5cm (68cm - 1.5cm = 66.5cm) draw a curved line from the point (118) through the point (116) to connect the point (119) so as to complete an internal side line (120) for the back piece, thus the basic model (S) for the back piece is completed; for the folding part of the front piece at the waist line, process as follows:
1/4 of the measure (B) = the length between points (28) and (105) - the width for the waist line in the front piece = the folding part at the waist line,
the width for the abdomen 1 - 1/4 of the measure (D) + the length from the point (27) to the point (107) = the folding part at the abdomen;
for the folding part of the back piece at the waist line, process as follows:
1/4 of the measure (B) - the length between point (28) and point (105) - the width for the waist line in the back piece = the folding part at the waist line,
the width for the abdomen 1 from the point (87) to the point (112) - 1/4 of the measure (D) - the length between points (27) and (107) in the front piece = the folding part at the abdomen.

Claims

1. A basic formula for an active layout drawing in pants tailoring, by means of the measure around the waist line, the measure around the lower waist line 1, the measure around the lower waist line 2, the measure around the hip 1, the measure around the hip 2, the measure of the front upper thigh, the measure of the back upper thigh, the measure of the full gore, the measure around the middle thigh, the measure around the upper thigh, the measure around the knee, the measure around the calf, the measure around the ankle, the measure of the full length of the pants, the measure of the size of the recession at the middle thigh, the measure of the depth from the waist line to the middle thigh, to the upper thigh, to the ankle, to the hip and to the lower waist line for making an active layout drawing in a way to select a free point (1) to draw a vertical line and a horizontal line, then taking a fixed point (2) downward along the vertical line from the point (1) at a distance of the measure of the front upper thigh plus 2cm and draw a horizontal line from the fixed point (2); measure a distance of 1/16 of the measure around the hip 1 from the fixed point (2) rightward along the horizontal line to obtain a fixed point (3), then set a fixed point (4) at 2cm leftward from the point (3) and set a fixed point (5) at 1.6cm leftward from the point (4); draw a vertical line downward from the point (5) and obtain a point (6) at 12cm below the point (5), then draw a curved line from the point (4) to the point (6); set a point (7) at 5cm downward along the vertical line from the point (1) and draw a horizontal line from the point (7) as for the measure around the lower waist line 1; set a point (8) at 10cm downward along the vertical line from the point (1) and draw a horizontal line from the point (8) as for the measure around the lower waist line 2; set a point (9) at 22cm downward along the vertical line from the point (1) and draw a horizontal line from the point (9) as for the measure around the hip 1; set a point (10) at 28cm downward along the vertical line from the point (1) and draw a horizontal line from the point (10) as for the measure around the hip 2; set a point (11) leftward from the point (1) along the horizontal line at a distance of 1.5cm equal to the obtained from the size of the recession at the middle thigh, then draw a curved line from the point (11) to the point (9) and draw a front gore line from the point (9) to the point (4); set a point (12) at 1.3cm downward along the curved line from the point (11) and obtain a cross point (7′) and a cross point (8′) at the respective cross points between the curved line from the point (11) and the horizontal line from the point (7) and the horizontal line from the point (8); set a point (13) at 1/4 of the measure around the waist line leftward along the horizontal line from the point (11); set a point (14) at 1/4 of the measure around the lower waist line 1 leftward from the point (7′) along the horizontal line of the point (7) (slack maybe considered according to requirement); set a point (15) at 1/4 of the measure around the lower waist line 2 leftward from the point (8′) along the horizontal line of the point (8) (slack may be considered according to requirement) set a point (16) leftward from the point (9) along the horizontal line at a distance equal to 1/4 of the measure around the hip 1 plus the slack (1.3cm in the embodiment) and minus 1cm; set a point (17) leftward along the horizontal line from the point (10) at a distance equal to 1/4 of the measure around the hip 1 plus the slack 1.3cm and minus 1cm; draw a horizontal line leftward from the point (6) and use a curve to connect the points (13) (14) (15) (16) (17) and to obtain a point (18) at the cross point with the horizontal line from point (6); set point (19) at the center between point (6) and point (18), then draw a vertical line downward from the point (19), and then draw a horizontal line at point (20) according to the full length of the pants from the horizontal line of the point (1); set point (21) along the vertical line through the point (19) from the horizontal line of the point (1) according to the depth from the waist line to the calf line and draw a horizontal line through the point (21) thus obtained, then set points (22) and (23) at 1/4 of the measure around the calf leftward and rightward respectively along the horizontal line through the point (21); set points (24) and (25) at 1cm inward respectively from point (6) and point (18); set points (26) and (27) at 1cm extending outward respectively from the points (22) and (23) along the horiazontal line; set a point (28) along the vertical line through the point (19) from the horizontal line of the point (1) according to the depth from the waist line to the knee, and draw a horizontal line through the point (28) as a line for the measure around the knee; draw a line to connect points (24) and (26) and another line to connect points (18) and (27) so as to obtain points (30) and (29) at the respective cross points with the horizontal line of the point (20); as shown in Figure 10, draw a line through point (6) and another line through point (18) to connect points (26) and (29) and points (27) and (30) respectively so as to complete the internal side line and the external side line, and the area beyond the points (13) (14) and (15) is prepared for folding; the layout drawing process for the back piece is as shown in figure 11, set a point (31) at 1.3cm leftward from the point (9) along the horizontal line, then draw a vertical line from the point (31), and set a point (32) at 2.5cm below the point (31) along the vertical line; draw a line from the point (32) to incline leftward in a length equal to 1cm + 1/4 of the measure around the hip + 1.3cm and to cross with the horizontal line of the point (9) so as to obtain a point (38); set a point (33) leftward along the inclined line of the point (32) at a distance equal to the measure of the recession at the back waist line as obtained from the measure of the back upper thigh (7), then draw a vertical line through the point (33) against the line between the point (32) and the point (38), and set a point (34) downward along this vertical line at a distance equal to the distance between points (9) and (2), then set a point (35) upward along the vertical line at a distance equal to the measure of the back upper thigh + 2.5cm; set a point (36) AT 1CM leftward from the point (32) and draw a line to connect points (36) and (35), then set a point (37) at 8cm from the point (35) where the line that extends from points (35) and (36) is passing through;please refer to Figure 12, set a point (39) below the point (35) at a distance equal to the size between point (1) and point (7), and draw a horizontal line through the point (39) as for the position of the lower waist line 1 of the back piece, then draw a line from the point (39) inclining upper leftward to a distance equal to 1/4 of the measure around the lower waist line 1 to cross with the horizontal line of the point (7′) so as to obtain a cross point (40); set a point (41) below the point (35) at a distance equal to the size between points (1) and (8), and draw a horizontal line through the point (41) as for the position of the lower waist line 2 of the back piece, then draw a line from the point (41) inclining upper leftward to a distance equal to 0.5cm + 1/4 of the measure around the lower waist line 2 to cross with the horizontal line of the point (8′) so as to obtain a cross point (42); draw a curved line through the point (41) and the point (32) to cross with the horizontal line of the point (10) so as to obtain a cross point (43), set a point (44) leftward along the horizontal line of the point (10) at a distance equal to 1cm + (1/4 of the measure around the hip 2 + 1.3cm); please refer to Figure 13, draw a side line to connect points (40) (42) (38) (44) and to obtain a cross point (45) against the horizontal line of the point (19); draw a vertical line through point (19) against the horizontal line between points (38) and (32) to obtain a cross point (46) and another cross point (47) at the bottom, the point (47) is the center point of the bottom leg of the back piece of the paints; draw a central line to connect points (46) and (47) and then draw a line through the point (47) vertically against the central line, the cross point (48) between the central line and the line through the point (47) vertically against the central line is arranged leftward from the point (47) at a distance equal to 2cm + the distance between points (20) and (30), and a point (49) is obtained in the same manner; meassure the distance between points (21) and (27) then use a triangular to draw an inclined line vertically against the center line so as to obtain a cross point (51) at the extension of the horizontal line through the point (21) and also to obtain an opposite point (50) rightward against point (51) in equal distance; in the same manner described above to obtain a point (52) and a point (53) from the width through the point (28); please refer to Figure 14, set points (54) and (55) along the line through points (52) and (53) and the line through points (50) and (51) at a location 2cm outward bilaterally (the extension of 2cm is adjustable according to requirement): draw a line extending rightward from the point (37) to a position equal to the distance of 1/8 of the measure around the hip - 1.3cm so as to obtain a point (56); draw an internal back side line (57) to connect the point (56) and the point (54); draw a back gore line (58) to connect points (35) (39) (41) (32) and (56), (the location of the point (56) is adjustable to keep the back gore line be in accordance with the measure of the full gore length); draw a line from the point (45) vertically against the central line to be in cross with the internal back side line (57) so as to obtain a cross point (60), and the distance between points (45) and (60) indicates the width of the back piece; draw a front side line (61) to connect points (45) and (55) so as to complete the layout drawing of the basic model.

2. layout drawing tequnique for the basic model in pants tailoring, by means of the measure of the depth of the gore (A), the measure around the waist line (B), the measure around the abdomen 2 (C), the measure for the depth 2 (C1) from the waist line (B) to the abdomen 2 (C), the measure around the abdomen 1 (D), the measure for the depth 1 (D1) from the waist line (B) to the abdomen 1 (D), the measure around the hip 2 (E), the measure for the depth 4 (E4) from the waist line (B) to the hip 2 (E), the measure around the hip 1 (F), the measure for the depth 3 (F1) from the waist line to the hip 1 (F), the measure around the hip 3 (G), the measure for the depth 5 (G1) from the waist line to the hip 3 (G), the measure around the middle thigh (H), the measure for the depth 6 (H1) from the waist line to the middle thigh (H), the measure around the knee (I), the measure for the depth 7 (I1) from the waist line to the knee, the measure around the calf (J), the measure for the depth 8 (J1) from the waist line to the calf (J), the measure around the ankle (K), the measure for the depth 9 (KI) from the waist line to the ankle (K), the measure of the front length(L), the measure of the side length (M), the measure of the back length (N), the measure of the full length of the gore (O), the measure of the recession at the back waist line (P), and the measure of the side curve to draw a horizontal line (1) on the upper side and draw a vertical line (2) against the horizontal line (1) to cross each other at left side at a cross point (3); set a point (4) downward along the vertical line (2) at a location equal to the distance of the difference between the front length (L) and the side length (M) (2cm); set a point (5) downward along the vertical line (2) at a location equal to the distance of the depth 4 (E4) (23cm); draw a horizontal line leftward from the point (5) and set a point (7) leftward along the horizontal line at a distance equal to 1/2 of the difference between the measure of (E) and the measure of (E1) (2cm); set a point (9) leftward along the horizontal line (6) from the point (7) at a distance equal to 1/4 of the measure (E) (24cm), then draw a vertical line (10) through the point (9) to cross with the horizontal line (1) of the point (11); set a point (12) and a point (13) respectively downward along the vertical line (10) and (2) from the point (11) and the point (4) at a distance equal to the depth 2 (C3) (10cm) and draw a line (14) to connect points (12) and (13); set a point (15) and a point (16) respectively downward along the vertical line (10) and the line (2) from the point (11 and the point (4) at a distance equal to the depth 1 (D1) (5cm) and draw a line (17) to connect the point (15) and the point (16); draw an oblique line (18) to connect the point (13) and the point (7) and another oblique line (19) to connect the point (16) and the point (17) so as to obtain a cross point (20) at the horizontal line (14); set a point (21) downward along the vertical line (10) from the point (11) at a distance equal to the depth 3 (F1), then draw a horizontal line (22) rightward from the point (21) to respectively cross with the oblique lines (18) and (19) at the cross points (24) and (23); set a point (25) leftward along the horizontal line (22) from the point (23) or (24) at a distance equal to 1/4 of the measure (F) (1/4 of 95cm = 23.75cm); set a point (26) leftward along the horizontal line (14) from the point (20) or (13) at a distance equal to 1/4 of the measure (G) (1/4 of 92cm = 23cm); set a point (27) leftward along the horizontal line (17) from the point (16) at a distance equal to 1/4 of the measure (D) (1/4 of 85cm = 21cm); set a point 928) along the horizontal line (1) at a distance from the point (4) equal to 1/4 of the measure (B) 91/4 of 72cm = 18cm); set a point (29) downward along the vertical inie (2) from the point 94) at a distance equal to 0.5cm + the measure (A) (27cm) and draw a horizontal line (30) rightward from the point (29) and then set a point (40) rightward along the horizontal line (30) at a distance equal to 1/24 of the measure (E); set a point (41) along the horizontal line (30) about 2cm leftward from the point (40) and draw a vertical line (42) downward from the point (41), then set a point (43) along the vertical line (42) at 13.5cm from the the point (41); set a point (44) upward along the vertical line (2) from the point 929) at a distance equal to 1/16 of the measure (E) - 1cm; draw a curved line (45) to connect the point (44) and the point (40); set a point (46) along the vertical line (10) downward from the point (11) at a distance equal to the depth 5 (G1) (29cm) and then draw a vertical line (47) rightward from the point (46) to cross with the vertical line (8) of the point (7) at a cross point (48); set a point (49) along the horizontal line (47) leftward from the point (48) at a distance equal to 1/4 of the measure (G) (1/4 of 94cm = 23.5cm); draw a line 950) from the point (40) passing through the point (43); set a point (51) along the vertical line 910) downward from the point (11) at a distance equal to the depth 6 (H1) (42cm) then draw a horizontal line (52) rightward from the point (51) to cross with the curved line (50) at a cross point (53); draw a rightward line from the point (9) passing through the point (46) or (49) to cross with the horizontal line (52) at a cross point (55); set a point (56) at the center between the point (55) and the point (53) along the horizontal line (52) and draw a vertical line (57) downward from the point (56) to the horizontal line determined as for the bottom of the pants; set a point (58) along the vertical line 957) at a distance equal to the depth 7 (I1) from the horizontal line (1) (56cm) and then draw a horizontal line 959) through the point (58); set a point (60) along the vertical line (57) at a distance equal to the depth 9 (K1) from the horizontal line (1) and then draw a horizontal line (61) through the point (60); set a point (62) at 2.5cm below the point (60) along the vertical line (57) and draw a line (63) horizontally through the point (62); set a point (64) at 2cm (more or less according to requirement) leftward from the point (62) along the horizontal line (63) and then draw a line (65) to connect the point (56) and the point (64); set a point (66) downward along the vertical line (65) from the horizontal line (1) at a distance equal to the depth 8 (J1) and draw a horizontal line (67) and another horizontal line (68) through the point (66) vertically against the line (65), then set the left point (70) and the right point (69) along the lines (67) and (68) respectively from the point (66) at a distance equal to 1/4 of the measure (J) (1/4 of 33cm = 8.25cm); set a point (32) and a point (71) respectively along the horizontal line (63) from the point (64) at an expected distance (8.5cm in the embodiment); set a point (72) rightward from the point (69) along the line (68) at a preferred distance (2cm in the embodiment) and draw an oblique line (73) to connect the point (71) and the point (72), then use a triangular with one side close to the oblique line (73) and another side aimed at the point (64) to draw a line through the point (64) vertically against the oblique line (73) so as to obtain a cross point (74); draw a line to connect the oblique line (73) and the curved line (50) so as to complete the internal side line (75) for the front piece; the cross point between the internal side line (75) and the horizontal line (59) is the point (76); set a point (77) at a preferred distance (2cm in the embodiment) leftward from the point (70) along the line (67) and draw a line (78) to connect the point (32) and the point (77), then draw properly a curved line (54) from the point (21) of the vertical line (10) passing through the point (55) and draw another line (79) to be in contact with the line (78) so as to complete the external side line, thus a cross point (80) is obtained between the line (79) and the horizontal line (59); use a triangular with one side close to the line (78) through the point (32) and with another side aimed at the point (64) to draw a horizontal line passing through the point (64) so as to obtain a cross point (81); set a point (82) leftward from the point (7) along the horizontal line (6) at a distance equal to 1/2 of the measure (P) (1/2 of 4cm = 2cm); set a point (83) below the horizontal line (1) along the vertical line through the point (56) at a distance equal to the difference between the measure (N) and the measure (M) (99.5cm - 97. 5cm = 2cm), then use a triangular with one side close to the point (83) and with the opposite side close to the point (82) to respectively draw a horizontal line and a vertical line (84) so as to obtain a cross point (85), (or use a triangular with both restangular sides respectively aimed at the point (83) and the point (82) letting the horizontal line through the point (83) be inclined upward at left side below the horizontal line 91) and then irregularly draw a rectangular line, for example, if the measure (N) is over the measure (M), the horizontal line along the triangular is arranged at least 0.5cm below the point (109) at the left side and then an irregularly rectangular line is drawn through the point (87) and the point (83)); draw a curved line close to the vertical line (84) from a point 4cm below the point (85) passing through the point (7) to form a gore line (86) for the back piece; set a point (87) downward from the point (85) at a distance equal to the measure (D1) and draw an inclined line (88) to connect the points (87) and (15), then set a point (89) leftward from the point (87) along the inclined line (88) at a distance 1/4 of the measure (D) (1/4 of 84cm = 21cm); set a point (90) downward from the point (85) along the line (86) at a distance equal to the measure (C1) (10cm) then draw an inclined line (91) to the point (12), then set a point (92) leftward from the point (90) along the line (91) at a distance equal to 1/4 of the measure (C) (1/4 of 92cm = 23cm); set a cross point (93) between the gore line (86) and the vertical line (22) and then set a point (94) leftward from the point (93) along the vertical line (22) at a distance equal to 1/4 of the measure (F) (1/4 of 95cm = 23.75cm; set a cross point (as) between the gore line (86) and the horizontal line (47), then set a point (96) leftward from the point (95) along the horizontal line (47) at a distance equal to 1/4 of the measure (G) (1/4 of 94cm = 23.5cm); set a point (97) leftward from the point (64) along the horizontal line (63) at a preferred distance (1.5cm in the embodiment) and draw an oblique line (98) from the point (56) to the point (97); draw a line to connect the point (97) and the point (74) and set a point (99) at a preferred distance (8.5cm in the embodiment), then set a point (100) leftward from the point (97) along the line (63) at a preferred distance 98.5cm in the embodiment); set a point 9102) leftward from the point (77) along the line (67) extending through the point (77) at a preferred distance (same distance between point (66) and point (77) in the front piece), then draw a straight line (101) to connect the points (100) and (102) and draw a side line (103) to be in communication with the side line (54) and the straight line (101) up to the point (9); draw a curved line (104) to connect the points (26) and (9) according to the distance equal to 1/4 of the measure (C) to obtain a right size for the waist line: set the cross point of the curved line (104) and the horizontal line (1) as point (105); set the cross point of the curved line (104) and the lines (88) and (17) as point (107); draw a side line (108) from the point (9) to the horizontal line for the front piece as well as for the back piece within a preferred range; set the cross point of the side line (108) and the horizontal line (1) as point (109); set the cross point of the side line 9108) and the horizontal line (22) as point (110), set the cross point of the side line (108) and the inclined lines (14) and (91) as point (111), and set the cross point of the side line (108) and the inclined lines (17) and (88) as point (112); draw a curved line (113) with a curve to connect the points (4) and (109); use a triangular with one side close to the side line (108) and with another side crossing through the horizontal line of the point (83) letting the right angle aimed at the point (109) to draw a line (114) from the point (109) to the horizontal line of the point (83), then draw a curved line (115) to connect the horizontal line of the point (83) and the line (114); set a point (116) rightward from the cross point of the line (68) and the line (98) along the line (68) at a preferred distance (same size as the distance between point (66) and point (77) in the front piece), then draw a straight line to connect the points (99) and (116), then use a triangular with one side close to the line (117) and with another side aimed at the point (97) to draw a bottom line; according to the distance equal to the difference between the measure (O) (72cm in the embodiment) and the length of the gore in the front piece (30cm), draw a line from the point (4) through the point (44) to connect the curved line (45) up to the point (40); according to the length of the gore in the back piece (42cm in the embodiment) draw a line from the point (85) through the line (86), the point (87), the point (90), the point (93) and the point (7) and extending outward to a point (119) in an arch shape to complete a gore line for the back piece; according to the internal side length of the front piece, draw a line from the point (74) through the point (72) to connect the line (43) up to the point (40) so as to complete an internal side line for the back piece (68cm in the embodiment), then, according to the distance equal to the internal side length of the front piece minus 1.5cm (68cm - 1.5cm = 66.5cm) draw a curved line from the point (118) through the point (116) to connect the point (119) so as to complete an internal side line (120) for the back piece, thus the basic model (S) for the back piece is completed; for the folding part of the front piece at the waist line, process as follows:
1/4 of the measure (B) = the length between points (28) and (105) - the width for the waist line in the front piece = the folding part at the waist line,
the width for the abdomen 1 from the point (87) to the point (112) - 1/4 of the measure (D) - the length between points (27) and (107) in the front piece = the folding part at the abdomen. for the folding part of the back piece at the waist line, process as follows:
1/4 of the measure (B) - the length between point (28) and point (105) - the width for the waist line in the back piece = the folding part at the waist line,
the width for the abdomen 1 from the point (87) to the point (112) - 1/4 of the measure (D) - the length between points (27) and (107) in the front piece = the folding part at the abdomen.