EP0276183A1 - Setting for the invisible laying of stones with a closure piece having a notch under the girdle - Google Patents

Setting for the invisible laying of stones with a closure piece having a notch under the girdle Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0276183A1
EP0276183A1 EP88400090A EP88400090A EP0276183A1 EP 0276183 A1 EP0276183 A1 EP 0276183A1 EP 88400090 A EP88400090 A EP 88400090A EP 88400090 A EP88400090 A EP 88400090A EP 0276183 A1 EP0276183 A1 EP 0276183A1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
stones
head
notches
claw
peripheral
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Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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EP88400090A
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German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Laurent François
Philippe Renaud
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Azema Henry-Jean
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Azema Henry-Jean
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Publication date
Application filed by Azema Henry-Jean filed Critical Azema Henry-Jean
Publication of EP0276183A1 publication Critical patent/EP0276183A1/en
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/005—Gems provided with grooves or notches, e.g. for setting
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools

Definitions

  • Such an assembly is mechanically complex to perform because it requires a frame comprising partitions separating two adjacent rows of stones with, along their upper edge, grooves in which are engaged the ends of keys having, at the ends of their two edges, triangles engaging in the notches of the edges of the cylinder heads of the stones, these partitions being joined at one of their ends by a transverse partition and a door with triangles protruding from pressing against the end of the rows of stones with its triangles engaged in the notches of the end stones to maintain said end stones and close the frame on the side opposite to the transverse partition.
  • FR-A-827.350 it has been proposed to produce a paving using a frame constituted by a rigid frame comprising windows whose lower edge of each window forms a peripheral seating for the breech of a stone, the stone being held in place in this seat by retaining pieces engaged in grooves made in the faces of the cylinder head below the laminate.
  • the retaining part is secured to the bar of the rigid frame by a cylindrical rod, the length is adjustable during assembly.
  • This type of mounting overcomes some of the drawbacks of the invisible mount analyzed above, but it can only be implemented with notches made in the faces of the cylinder head with degradation of the appearance of the stone, in particular brilliants. , and the stone is only kept resting on its seat in the frame.
  • the necessarily reduced engagement of the retaining part in the long but shallow notch cannot prevent relative displacements between the stone and the retaining parts cooperating with it, for example a rotation or a displacement according to the direction of the notch .
  • the present invention aims to remedy the above drawbacks and it relates to an invisible setting setting for one or more stones, each of which has a yoke comprising at least three notched edges, below the laminate, by a dihedral notch , the crimping being carried out by a claw comprising a head capable of engaging in a notch in the stone, this head being secured to a rod engaging in a drilling coincident with a grid fitting the breech (s) of the or stones or in a hole coincident with a base plate which is spread apart to lie beyond the top of the cylinder head (s), said rod being capable of being secured, with adjustment of its useful length, to said grid or plate, for example by welding, characterized in that the head of the claw has dihedral faces which fit exactly into the notches of the edges of the stones by forming a claw resting on the two x faces or a face and a vertex of the notch of each edge.
  • This crimping mode is the only one which allows the invisible mounting of stones comprising crimping notches cut according to the process described in FR-A-2,580,541 and which ensures that the stone is kept in perfect position even if the cylinder head thereof it is not supported on the grid.
  • a claw is provided for at the right from the junction point of the laminates of at least three juxtaposed stones, the edges of the cylinder heads leading to the junction point are notched, the head of the claw engaging in the notches of the edges leading to this junction point.
  • the head is preferably constituted by two pyramids with square bases joined by their bases or a single pyramid whose faces have the same inclination as the faces of the notches of the stones.
  • the rod is preferably threaded so that its length can be adjusted by screwing in a threaded hole in the grid.
  • the rod and / or the grid are made of a material which is sufficiently elastically deformable so that a stone to be crimped between the prongs can be engaged by its yoke between the heads and put in place by pressing down until the heads engage in the notches by spacing said heads.
  • the rods can be welded before or after placing the stones, the part protruding under the grid being cut and polished.
  • the crimping of the peripheral stones of the crimped assembly which have at least one of their notches engaged on a connecting head with the notches of the adjacent stones, can be completed either by a visible peripheral crimping called "in closed crimp" produced by a sheet peripheral metal of which at least some ties of the upper edge are folded over the laminate of said stones bordering the paving, either by an invisible crimping with peripheral claws whose heads engage in the peripheral notch (s) of the peripheral stones, the parts of the heads of the claws which overlap on the sides of the paving being preferably removed after adjusting the stones by filing or grinding and said claws being possibly masked by a metal formwork or added patterns joining the periphery of the grid to the parts of the facets of the cylinder heads situated between the notches and the laminate.
  • the invention is applicable with a flat grid or with flat facets or having at least a radius of curvature to obtain tables arranged in any desired shape.
  • Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a stone cut according to the method described in FR-A-2,580,541 with notches in the cylinder head in the form of dihedrons to illustrate the stones to which the invisible setting in accordance with the invention applies;
  • Fig. 2 is a side elevational view of three stones according to FIG. 1 joined by their sides in a row with the claws and the grid shown diagrammatically in dotted lines;
  • Fig. 3 is a plan view of the grid;
  • Fig. 4 is a perspective view of a claw;
  • Fig. 5 is a detailed view of the attachment of a claw in the grid;
  • Fig. 6 is a sectional view similar to Figure 2 with peripheral crimp in closed setting;
  • fig. 7 is a view similar to FIG. 6 with setting of the peripheral stones by claws and
  • FIG. 8 a view of the crimping of FIG. 7 with invisible formwork.
  • the reference 1 designates a stone which can be a diamond but also another precious stone, a fine stone, an ornamental stone or any other mass of any similar shape.
  • the stones 1 are shown cut to the square but the size could be of a type, for example hexagonal if the stones must fit very exactly or of another type, the invention not being limited to a specific size.
  • Reference 2 designates the notches in the form of dihedrons made on the edges of the cylinder head with one of the faces 3 of the dihedron substantially parallel to the polished table 4 and the other face 5 inclined and parallel to another cleavage table in the case of diamonds.
  • the notches could be constituted by differently inclined faces, in particular in the case of fine stones not having cleavage tables.
  • reference 6 designates the grid.
  • This plate is perforated by drilling nine holes distributed in a network with center-to-center spacing of 2.8mm and then enlarging these holes by the usual openwork technique to make nine windows 7 separated by surrounding plates 8 having a width from 0.9 to 1mm with chamfers 9 to fit the cylinder heads of the stones 1 precisely so that the tables 4 are level.
  • Claws 11 are then produced (Fig. 4) which include a head 12 and a rod 13 threaded to 0.7mm.
  • the head 12 is a pyramid with a square base having dimensions depending on the notches 2, such as the claw lying in the axis passing through the junction point of four adjoining stones 1, the edges of the base 14 of the head 12 s 'engage in the notches 2 with the base 14 resting on the faces 3 of the four notches of the four stones and the lateral faces of the head substantially in abutment against the facets 5 of the notches.
  • peripheral stones are then assembled, either by closed crimping as illustrated in FIG. 6, or by invisible crimping as illustrated in FIGS. 7 and 8.
  • a strip 17 is bent square and welded so as to surround the peripheral stones, the central notches of which have been engaged on the heads 12 of the central claws 11a.
  • the peripheral holes 10 have not been drilled and the dimensions of this plate have been reduced so that the sides pass through the theoretical axes of said holes.
  • the strip 17 is welded at 18 on the periphery of the plate 6 and its upper edge is folded at 18 on the sheet of peripheral stones as in a conventional closed setting.
  • the peripheral claws 11b can be placed in the tapped peripheral holes 10 and they are adjusted and welded like the claws 11a, after which the peripheral stones 1a are put in place.
  • the part of the peripheral claws 11b and of the base plate 6 which extends beyond the edges of the stones to leave only half claws at the ends of the central plates and quarter claws at the corners.
  • welded at 20 on the periphery a frame 19 or patterns which are integral with the edge of the plate 6 and the half and quarter claw and whose upper edge 21 is applied against the cylinder heads of the stones between the laminate and the top of the claws.

Abstract

An invisible setting mount for one or more stones, each of which has a culet comprising at least three edges which are notched, below the girdle, by means of a dihedral notch, the setting being produced by means of a claw comprising a head capable of engaging in a notch in the stone, this head being integral with a rod engaging in a coinciding hole in a grid surrounding the culet or culets of the stone or stones or in a coinciding hole in a base-plate distanced in order to be located above the apex of the culet or culets, the said rod being capable of being joined, with adjustment of its useful length, to the said grid or plate, for example by soldering. The head (12) of the claw comprises dihedral faces (12-14) which fit exactly into the notches (2) on the edges of the stones, forming a claw bearing on the two faces (3-5) or on one face and an apex of the notch (2) of each edge. The invention makes it possible to produce a slab consisting of several substantially contiguous stones with invisible setting. <IMAGE>

Description

On a déjà proposé de nombreux types de montures à sertissage invi­sible pour former des pavages de plusieurs pierres à culasse entail­lée en dessous du feuilletis. Dans FR-A-802.367 les pierres car­rées constitutives du pavage comportant plusieurs rangées de pier­res, sont munies, dans les arêtes de la culasse, d'entailles trian­gulaires se trouvant en dessous du feuilletis et des pièces compor­tant des saillies sont engagées dans les crans des pierres et dans des logements ménagés dans la monture proprement dite. Un tel monta­ge est mécaniquement complexe à réaliser car il nécessite une montu­re comportant des cloisons séparant deux rangées voisines de pier­res avec, le long de leur bord supérieur, des rainures dans lesquel­ les sont engagées les extrémités de clavettes comportant, aux ex­trémités de leurs deux bords, des triangles s'engageant dans les entailles des arêtes des culasses des pierres, ces cloisons étant réunies à une de leurs extrémités par une cloisin transversale et une porte avec des triangles en saillie venant s'appliquer contre l'extrémité des rangées de pierres avec ses triangles engagés dans les entailles des pierres terminales pour maintenir lesdites pier­res terminales et fermer la monture du côté opposé à la cloison transversale.Many types of invisible crimped frames have already been proposed to form pavings of several stones with a notched yoke below the laminate. In FR-A-802.367, the square stones constituting the paving comprising several rows of stones are provided, in the edges of the cylinder head, with triangular notches located below the laminate and parts comprising projections are engaged in the notches of the stones and in housings in the frame itself. Such an assembly is mechanically complex to perform because it requires a frame comprising partitions separating two adjacent rows of stones with, along their upper edge, grooves in which are engaged the ends of keys having, at the ends of their two edges, triangles engaging in the notches of the edges of the cylinder heads of the stones, these partitions being joined at one of their ends by a transverse partition and a door with triangles protruding from pressing against the end of the rows of stones with its triangles engaged in the notches of the end stones to maintain said end stones and close the frame on the side opposite to the transverse partition.

Ce type de monture pour sertissage invisible présente, outre la complexité de sa mise en oeuvre signalée ci-dessus, les inconvé­nients que le niveau des tables des pierres est entièrement déter­miné par l'emplacement des rainures réalisées dans les cloisons pour recevoir les clavettes et le niveau des entailles réalisées dans les culasses et ne peut donc être réglé au montage et que les pierres doivent présenter des entailles à faces supérieure et infé­rieure parallèles à la table, ce qui, notamment dans le cas des brillants, supprime les feux et rend la pierre grise.This type of mounting for invisible crimping presents, in addition to the complexity of its implementation indicated above, the disadvantages that the level of the stone tables is entirely determined by the location of the grooves made in the partitions to receive the keys and the level of the notches made in the cylinder heads and cannot therefore be adjusted during assembly and that the stones must have notches with upper and lower faces parallel to the table, which, in particular in the case of brilliants, suppresses fires and makes the stone grey.

Dans FR-A-827.350, on a proposé de réaliser un pavage utilisant une monture constituée par un cadre rigide comportant des fenê­tres dont le bord inférieur de chaque fenêtre forme assise périphé­rique pour la culasse d'une pierre, la pierre étant maintenue en place dans cette assise par des pièces de retenue engagées dans des rainures réalisées dans les faces de la culasse en dessous du feuilletis. Dans ce montage la pièce de retenue est solidarisée avec la barrette du cadre rigide par une tige cylindrique dont la longueur est réglable au montage. Ce type de montage remédie à cer­tains des inconvénients de la monture invisible analysée ci-des­sus mais il ne peut être mis en oeuvre qu'avec des entailles réali­sées dans les faces de la culasse avec dégradation de l'aspect de la pierre, notamment des brillants, et la pierre est seulement maintenue en appui sur son assise dans le cadre. L'engagement obli­gatoirement réduit de la pièce de retenue dans l'entaille longue mais peu profonde ne peut empêcher des déplacements relatifs en­tre la pierre et les pièces de retenue coopérant avec elle, par exemple une rotation ou un déplacement selon la direction de l'en­taille.In FR-A-827.350, it has been proposed to produce a paving using a frame constituted by a rigid frame comprising windows whose lower edge of each window forms a peripheral seating for the breech of a stone, the stone being held in place in this seat by retaining pieces engaged in grooves made in the faces of the cylinder head below the laminate. In this assembly, the retaining part is secured to the bar of the rigid frame by a cylindrical rod, the length is adjustable during assembly. This type of mounting overcomes some of the drawbacks of the invisible mount analyzed above, but it can only be implemented with notches made in the faces of the cylinder head with degradation of the appearance of the stone, in particular brilliants. , and the stone is only kept resting on its seat in the frame. The necessarily reduced engagement of the retaining part in the long but shallow notch cannot prevent relative displacements between the stone and the retaining parts cooperating with it, for example a rotation or a displacement according to the direction of the notch .

Pour remédier aux inconvénients des entailles à faces parallèles réalisées dans les brillants, on a proposé, dans FR-A-2.580.541, de réaliser des encoches de sertissage taillées dans les arêtes de la culasse du diamant, ces entailles étant prismatiques avec des faces définies par rapport aux tables de clivage du diamant. Ces encoches de sertissage ne se prêtent pas aux sertissages proposés dans FR-A-802.367 et FR-A-827.350 et ne permettent pas, non plus, le sertissage invisible antérieurement connu dans lequel les rails intercalaires disposés entre deux rangées de pierres sont engagés dans des rainures réalisées dans les faces de la culasse desdites pierres et dans des logements de la monture, ce procédé classique n'offrant également aucune possibilité de réglage du niveau de la table des pierres serties. En outre ces procédés de sertissage sont exclusivement applicables à des pierres à taille carrée ou émeraude mais non aux diverses tailles "brillants" à contour arron­di ou hexagonal avec éventuellement les tables de certaines pier­ res du pavage décalées ou déjetées pour créer des effets spéciaux.To overcome the drawbacks of the notches with parallel faces produced in the diamonds, it has been proposed, in FR-A-2,580,541, to make crimping notches cut in the edges of the diamond cylinder head, these notches being prismatic with faces defined in relation to the diamond cleavage tables. These crimping notches do not lend themselves to the crimps proposed in FR-A-802.367 and FR-A-827.350 and do not allow, either, the previously known invisible crimping in which the intermediate rails arranged between two rows of stones are engaged in grooves made in the faces of the breech of said stones and in mountings, this conventional method also offering no possibility of adjusting the level of the table of crimped stones. In addition, these setting methods are exclusively applicable to square or emerald cut stones but not to the various "brilliant" sizes with rounded or hexagonal outline with possibly the tables of certain pier res of the pavement shifted or dropped to create special effects.

La présente invention a pour but de remédier aux inconvénients ci-­dessus et elle a pour objet une monture de sertissage invisible pour une ou plusieurs pierres dont chacune présente une culasse comportant au moins trois arêtes entaillées, en dessous du feuille­tis, par une encoche en dièdre, le sertissage étant réalisé par une griffe comportant une tête susceptible de s'engager dans une encoche de la pierre, cette tête étant solidaire d'une tige s'enga­geant dans un perçage en coïncidence d'une grille emboîtant la ou les culasses de la ou des pierres ou dans un perçage en coïnciden­ce d'une plaque de base écartée pour se trouver au-delà du sommet de la ou des culasses, ladite tige étant susceptible d'être solida­risée, avec réglage de sa longueur utile, avec ladite grille ou plaque, par exemple par soudage, caractérisée en ce que la tête de la griffe comporte des faces en dièdres s'emboîtant exactement dans les encoches des arêtes des pierres en formant une griffe en appui sur les deux faces ou une face et un sommet de l'entaille de chaque arête.The present invention aims to remedy the above drawbacks and it relates to an invisible setting setting for one or more stones, each of which has a yoke comprising at least three notched edges, below the laminate, by a dihedral notch , the crimping being carried out by a claw comprising a head capable of engaging in a notch in the stone, this head being secured to a rod engaging in a drilling coincident with a grid fitting the breech (s) of the or stones or in a hole coincident with a base plate which is spread apart to lie beyond the top of the cylinder head (s), said rod being capable of being secured, with adjustment of its useful length, to said grid or plate, for example by welding, characterized in that the head of the claw has dihedral faces which fit exactly into the notches of the edges of the stones by forming a claw resting on the two x faces or a face and a vertex of the notch of each edge.

Ce mode de sertissage est le seul qui permette le montage invisi­ble des pierres comportant des encoches de sertissage taillées se­lon le procédé décrit dans FR-A-2.580.541 et qui assure un main­tien en position parfait de la pierre même si la culasse de celle-­ci n'est pas en appui sur la grille.This crimping mode is the only one which allows the invisible mounting of stones comprising crimping notches cut according to the process described in FR-A-2,580,541 and which ensures that the stone is kept in perfect position even if the cylinder head thereof it is not supported on the grid.

Dans le cas de plusieurs pierres assemblées sous forme d'un pavage de pierres sensiblement jointives, une griffe est prévue au droit du point de jonction des feuilletis d'au moins trois pierres juxta­posées dont les arêtes des culasses aboutissant au point de jonc­tion sont encochées, la tête de la griffe s'engageant dans les en­coches des arêtes aboutissant à ce point de jonction.In the case of several stones assembled in the form of a paving of substantially contiguous stones, a claw is provided for at the right from the junction point of the laminates of at least three juxtaposed stones, the edges of the cylinder heads leading to the junction point are notched, the head of the claw engaging in the notches of the edges leading to this junction point.

Dans le cas d'un pavage réalisé avec des pierres à taille carrée ou émeraude, la tête est de préférence constituée par deux pyrami­des à bases carrées accolées par leurs bases ou une pyramide uni­que dont les faces ont la même inclinaison que les faces des enco­ches des pierres.In the case of paving made with square or emerald-cut stones, the head is preferably constituted by two pyramids with square bases joined by their bases or a single pyramid whose faces have the same inclination as the faces of the notches of the stones.

La tige est de préférence filetée pour que sa longueur puisse être réglée par vissage dans un perçage taraudé de la grille. La tige et/ou la grille sont réalisées en un matériau suffisamment déforma­ble élastiquement pour qu'une pierre à sertir entre les griffes puisse être engagée par sa culasse entre les têtes et mise en pla­ce par enfoncement jusqu'à ce que les têtes s'engagent dans les en­coches par écartement desdites têtes. Après réglage du niveau des têtes par vissage ou dévissage pour que les tables des pierres soient au niveau voulu, les tiges peuvent être soudées avant ou après la mise en place des pierres, la partie dépassant sous la grille étant recoupée et polie.The rod is preferably threaded so that its length can be adjusted by screwing in a threaded hole in the grid. The rod and / or the grid are made of a material which is sufficiently elastically deformable so that a stone to be crimped between the prongs can be engaged by its yoke between the heads and put in place by pressing down until the heads engage in the notches by spacing said heads. After adjusting the level of the heads by screwing or unscrewing so that the stone tables are at the desired level, the rods can be welded before or after placing the stones, the part protruding under the grid being cut and polished.

Le sertissage des pierres périphériques de l'ensemble serti qui ont au moins une de leurs encoches engagée sur une tête de liai­son avec les encoches des pierres adjacentes, peut être complété soit par un sertissage périphérique visible dit "en serti clos" réa­lisé par une feuille métallique périphérique dont au moins des par­ ties du bord supérieur sont rabattues sur le feuilletis desdites pierres bordant le pavage, soit par un sertissage invisible avec des griffes périphériques dont les têtes s'engagent dans la ou les encoches périphériques des pierres périphériques, les parties des têtes des griffes qui débordent sur les côtés du pavage étant de préférence éliminées après réglage des pierres par limage ou meula­ge et lesdites griffes étant éventuellement masquées par un coffra­ge métallique ou des motifs rapportés joignant la périphérie de la grille aux parties des facettes des culasses situées entre les enco­ches et le feuilletis.The crimping of the peripheral stones of the crimped assembly which have at least one of their notches engaged on a connecting head with the notches of the adjacent stones, can be completed either by a visible peripheral crimping called "in closed crimp" produced by a sheet peripheral metal of which at least some ties of the upper edge are folded over the laminate of said stones bordering the paving, either by an invisible crimping with peripheral claws whose heads engage in the peripheral notch (s) of the peripheral stones, the parts of the heads of the claws which overlap on the sides of the paving being preferably removed after adjusting the stones by filing or grinding and said claws being possibly masked by a metal formwork or added patterns joining the periphery of the grid to the parts of the facets of the cylinder heads situated between the notches and the laminate.

L'invention est applicable avec une grille plane ou à facettes pla­nes ou présentant au moins un rayon de courbure pour obtenir des ta­bles disposées selon toute forme voulue.The invention is applicable with a flat grid or with flat facets or having at least a radius of curvature to obtain tables arranged in any desired shape.

L'invention sera décrite plus en détail ci-après avec référence au dessin ci-annexé dans lequel :The invention will be described in more detail below with reference to the attached drawing in which:

Fig. 1 est une vue en perspective d'une pierre taillée se­lon le procédé décrit dans FR-A-2.580.541 avec encoches dans la culasse en forme de dièdres pour illustrer les pierres auxquelles s'applique le sertissage invisible conforme à l'invention; Fig. 2 est une vue en élévation latérale de trois pierres selon la figure 1 accolées par leurs côtés en une rangée avec les griffes et la grille schématisées en pointillés; Fig. 3 est une vue en plan de la grille; Fig. 4 est une vue en perspective d'une griffe; Fig. 5 est une vue de détail de la fixation d'une griffe dans la grille; Fig. 6 est une vue en coupe analogue à la figure 2 avec sertissage périphérique en serti clos; fig. 7 est une vue analogue à Fig. 6 avec sertissage des pierres périphériques par grif­fes et Fig. 8 une vue du sertissage de Fig. 7 avec coffrage invisible.Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a stone cut according to the method described in FR-A-2,580,541 with notches in the cylinder head in the form of dihedrons to illustrate the stones to which the invisible setting in accordance with the invention applies; Fig. 2 is a side elevational view of three stones according to FIG. 1 joined by their sides in a row with the claws and the grid shown diagrammatically in dotted lines; Fig. 3 is a plan view of the grid; Fig. 4 is a perspective view of a claw; Fig. 5 is a detailed view of the attachment of a claw in the grid; Fig. 6 is a sectional view similar to Figure 2 with peripheral crimp in closed setting; fig. 7 is a view similar to FIG. 6 with setting of the peripheral stones by claws and FIG. 8 a view of the crimping of FIG. 7 with invisible formwork.

Dans les dessins, la référence 1 désigne une pierre qui peut être un diamant mais également une autre pierre précieuse, une pierre fi­ne, une pierre ornamentale ou tout autre masse de forme analogue quelconque. Dans les exemples représentés et pour plus de simplici­té, les pierres 1 sont représentées taillées au carré mais la tail­le pourrait être d'un type, par exemple hexagonale si les pierres doivent s'emboîter très exactement ou d'un autre type, l'in­vention n'étant pas limitée à une taille spécifique. La référence 2 désigne les encoches en forme de dièdres réalisés sur les arêtes de la culasse avec une des faces 3 du dièdre sensiblement parallèle à la table polie 4 et l'autre face 5 inclinée et parallèle à une au­tre table de clivage dans le cas des diamants. Les encoches pour raient être constituées par des faces différemment inclinées notam­ment dans le cas des pierres fines ne présentant pas de tables de clivage.In the drawings, the reference 1 designates a stone which can be a diamond but also another precious stone, a fine stone, an ornamental stone or any other mass of any similar shape. In the examples shown and for simplicity, the stones 1 are shown cut to the square but the size could be of a type, for example hexagonal if the stones must fit very exactly or of another type, the invention not being limited to a specific size. Reference 2 designates the notches in the form of dihedrons made on the edges of the cylinder head with one of the faces 3 of the dihedron substantially parallel to the polished table 4 and the other face 5 inclined and parallel to another cleavage table in the case of diamonds. The notches could be constituted by differently inclined faces, in particular in the case of fine stones not having cleavage tables.

Dans les dessins, la référence 6 désigne la grille. Dans les exem­ples illustrés la grille 6 est destinée au montage de neuf pierres 1 identiques et sa forme devrait être adaptée dans le cas d'un nom­bre de pierres différent ou d'une taille différente. Si l'on consi­dère des diamants carrés de 28/10èmes (2,8mm) pris comme exemples dans la suite de la description, la grille 6 peut être réalisée à partir d'une plaque de métal carrée ayant une épaisseur choisie en pratique entre 1,2 et 1,6mm et dont le côté est supérieur à 2,8 x 3 = 8,4mm par exemple 9mm4. On ajoure cette plaque en perçant neuf trous répartis selon un réseau avec espacement de centre à centre de 2,8mm puis en agrandissant ces trous par la technique d'ajoura­ge usuelle pour réaliser neuf fenêtres 7 séparées par des plats d'entourage 8 ayant une largeur de 0,9 à 1mm avec des chanfreins 9 pour emboîter les culasses des pierres 1 de façon précise pour que les tables 4 se trouvent de niveau. On perce alors aux points d'in­tersection des axes des plats des trous 10 para exemple au diamètre 0,6mm qui sont ensuite taraudés à 0,7mm.In the drawings, reference 6 designates the grid. In the examples illustrated, the grid 6 is intended for mounting nine identical stones 1 and its shape should be adapted in the case of a different number of stones or of a different size. If we consider square diamonds of 28/10 (2.8mm) taken as examples in the following description, the grid 6 can be produced at starting from a square metal plate having a thickness chosen in practice between 1.2 and 1.6 mm and whose side is greater than 2.8 × 3 = 8.4 mm, for example 9 mm 4. This plate is perforated by drilling nine holes distributed in a network with center-to-center spacing of 2.8mm and then enlarging these holes by the usual openwork technique to make nine windows 7 separated by surrounding plates 8 having a width from 0.9 to 1mm with chamfers 9 to fit the cylinder heads of the stones 1 precisely so that the tables 4 are level. One then drills at the points of intersection of the axes of the flat holes 10 for example with a diameter of 0.6mm which are then tapped at 0.7mm.

On réalise alors des griffes 11 (Fig. 4) qui comportent une tête 12 et une tige 13 filetée à 0,7mm. La tête 12 est une pyramide à base carrée ayant des dimensions fonction des encoches 2, telles que la griffe se trouvant dans l'axe passant par le point de jonction de quatre pierres 1 accolées, les arêtes de la base 14 de la tête 12 s'engagent dans les encoches 2 avec la base 14 en appui sur les fa­ces 3 des quatre encoches des quatre pierres et les faces latéra­les de la tête sensiblement en butée contre les facettes 5 des enco­ches.Claws 11 are then produced (Fig. 4) which include a head 12 and a rod 13 threaded to 0.7mm. The head 12 is a pyramid with a square base having dimensions depending on the notches 2, such as the claw lying in the axis passing through the junction point of four adjoining stones 1, the edges of the base 14 of the head 12 s 'engage in the notches 2 with the base 14 resting on the faces 3 of the four notches of the four stones and the lateral faces of the head substantially in abutment against the facets 5 of the notches.

On commence par monter les quatre griffes 11a des quatre trous 10a entourant la pierre centrale et on vérifie que les quatre têtes des griffes sont bien à la même hauteur en les réglant éventuellement par vissage ou dévissage des tiges 13 et que la hauteur des bases 14 correspond bien au niveau des faces 3 des encoches de la pierre placée dans son logement 7, ce qui peut se faire en mettant en pla­ ce une pierre dans un logement périphérique.On soude alors en 15 les tiges 13 des griffes avec la plaque 16 et on élimine la partie débordante 16 de la tige 13 et polit. On peut alors engager à for­ce la pierre centrale entre les quatre têtes 12 des quatre griffes 11a, lesdites têtes s'écartant légèrement pour laisser passer les arêtes des bases 14 sous l'effet de l'élasticité des plats 6 et des tiges 13.We start by mounting the four claws 11a of the four holes 10a surrounding the central stone and we check that the four heads of the claws are at the same height by adjusting them if necessary by screwing or unscrewing the rods 13 and that the height of the bases 14 corresponds well at the faces 3 of the notches of the stone placed in its housing 7, which can be done by putting in place this a stone in a peripheral housing. We then weld in 15 the rods 13 of the claws with the plate 16 and eliminate the projecting part 16 of the rod 13 and polish. The central stone can then be forcibly engaged between the four heads 12 of the four claws 11a, said heads deviating slightly to allow the edges of the bases 14 to pass under the effect of the elasticity of the dishes 6 and the rods 13.

Le montage des pierres périphériques s'effectue alors,soit par ser­tissage clos comme illustré à la figure 6, soit par sertissage in­visible comme illustré aux figures 7 et 8.The peripheral stones are then assembled, either by closed crimping as illustrated in FIG. 6, or by invisible crimping as illustrated in FIGS. 7 and 8.

Pour réaliser un serti clos une bande 17 est pliée au carré et sou­dée de façon à entourer les pierres périphériques dont les enco­ches centrales ont été engagées sur les têtes 12 des griffes cen­trales 11a. Dans la plaquette de base 6 utilisée dans ce mode de serti, les trous périphériques 10 n'ont pas été percés et les di­mensions de cette plaquette ont été réduites pour que les côtés passent par les axes théoriques desdits trous. La bande 17 est sou­dée en 18 sur la périphérie de la plaquette 6 et son bord supé­rieur est rabattu en 18 sur le feuilletis des pierres périphéri­ques comme dans un serti clos classique.To make a closed setting, a strip 17 is bent square and welded so as to surround the peripheral stones, the central notches of which have been engaged on the heads 12 of the central claws 11a. In the base plate 6 used in this crimping mode, the peripheral holes 10 have not been drilled and the dimensions of this plate have been reduced so that the sides pass through the theoretical axes of said holes. The strip 17 is welded at 18 on the periphery of the plate 6 and its upper edge is folded at 18 on the sheet of peripheral stones as in a conventional closed setting.

Pour réaliser un serti invisible on peut mettre en place les grif­fes périphériques 11b dans les trous périphériques 10 taraudés et on les règle et les soude comme les griffes 11a, après quoi on met en place les pierres périphériques 1a. On élimine alors par lima­ge et polissage la partie des griffes périphériques 11b et de la plaquette de base 6 qui déborde des arêtes des pierres pour ne laisser subsister que des demi-griffes aux extrémités des plats centraux et des quarts de griffes dans les angles. On soude alors en 20 sur la périphérie un cadre 19 ou des motifs qui font corps avec le bord de la plaquette 6 et les demi et quart de griffe et dont le bord supérieur 21 vient s'appliquer contre les culasses des pierres entre le feuilletis et le sommet des griffes. Il se­rait également possible de rapporter les demi et quart de têtes des griffes 11b sur la face intérieure du cadre 19 qui serait alors refermé autour de la périphérie de la plaquette de base 6 et des pierres avec les griffes engagées dans les encoches 2 avant d'être fermé par soudure et soudé sur la périphérie de la plaquette 6.To make an invisible setting, the peripheral claws 11b can be placed in the tapped peripheral holes 10 and they are adjusted and welded like the claws 11a, after which the peripheral stones 1a are put in place. The part of the peripheral claws 11b and of the base plate 6 which extends beyond the edges of the stones to leave only half claws at the ends of the central plates and quarter claws at the corners. Then welded at 20 on the periphery a frame 19 or patterns which are integral with the edge of the plate 6 and the half and quarter claw and whose upper edge 21 is applied against the cylinder heads of the stones between the laminate and the top of the claws. It would also be possible to attach the half and quarter heads of the claws 11b on the inner face of the frame 19 which would then be closed around the periphery of the base plate 6 and stones with the claws engaged in the notches 2 before be closed by welding and welded to the periphery of the plate 6.

Claims (7)

1. Monture de sertissage invisible pour une ou plusieurs pierres dont chacune présente une culasse comportant au moins trois arê­tes entaillées, en dessous du feuilletis, par une encoche en diè­dre, le sertissage étant réalisé par une griffe comportant une tê­te susceptible de s'engager dans une encoche de la pierre, cette tête étant solidaire d'une tige s'engageant dans un perçage en coïncidence d'une grille emboîtant la ou les culasses de la ou des pierres ou dans un perçage en coïcidence d'une plaque de base écartée pour se trouver au-delà du sommet de la ou des culasses, ladite tige étant susceptible d'être solidarisée, avec réglage de sa longueur utile, avec ladite grille ou plaque, par exemple par soudage,
caractérisée en ce que la tête (12) de la griffe comporte des fa­ces (12-14) en dièdres s'emboîtant exactement dans les encoches (2) des arêtes des pierres en formant une griffe en appui sur les deux faces (3-5) ou une face et un sommet de l'entaille (2) de cha­que arête.1. Invisible setting setting for one or more stones, each of which has a cylinder head comprising at least three notched edges, below the laminate, by a dihedral notch, the setting being carried out by a claw comprising a head capable of engaging in a notch in the stone, this head being integral with a rod engaging in a drilling in coincidence with a grid fitting the breech (s) of the stone (s) or in a drilling in coincidence with a base plate separated for be located beyond the top of the cylinder head (s), said rod being capable of being joined, with adjustment of its useful length, to said grid or plate, for example by welding,
characterized in that the head (12) of the claw has dihedral faces (12-14) which fit exactly into the notches (2) of the edges of the stones, forming a claw bearing on both sides (3-5 ) or a face and a vertex of the notch (2) of each edge. 2. Monture selon la revendication 1 pour la réalisation d'un pava­ge constitué par plusieurs pierres sensiblement jointives, caractrérisée en ce qu'une griffe (11) est prévue au droit du point de jonction des feuilletis d'au moins trois pierres (1) juxtapo­sées dont les arêtes des culasses aboutissant au point de jonc­tion sont encochées (2), la tête (12) s'engageant dans les enco­ches (2) des arêtes aboutissant à ce point de jonction.2. Frame according to claim 1 for the production of a paving consisting of several substantially contiguous stones, characterized in that a claw (11) is provided at the junction point of the laminates of at least three stones (1) juxtaposed, the edges of the cylinder heads leading to the junction point are notched (2), the head (12) engaging in the notches (2) of the edges leading to this junction point. 3. Monture selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 et 2, caractérisée en ce que la tête (12) est constituée par deux pyrami­des à bases carrées accolées par leurs bases.3. Frame according to any one of claims 1 and 2, characterized in that the head (12) is constituted by two pyramids with square bases joined by their bases. 4. Monture selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 et 2, caractérisée en ce que la tête (12) est constituée par une pyrami­de unique dont les faces ont la même inclinaison que les faces (5) des encoches (2) des pierres.4. Frame according to any one of claims 1 and 2, characterized in that the head (12) consists of a single pyramid whose faces have the same inclination as the faces (5) of the notches (2) of the stones. 5. Monture selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 4, caractérisée en ce que la tige (13) de la griffe 11 est filetée pour que sa longueur puisse être réglée par vissage dans un perça­ge taraudé (10) de la grille (6).5. Frame according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the rod (13) of the claw 11 is threaded so that its length can be adjusted by screwing in a threaded bore (10) of the grid (6 ). 6. Monture selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 5, caractérisée en ce que le sertissage des pierres périphériques (1a) de l'ensemble sertie qui ont au moins une de leurs encoches (2) engagée sur une tête (12) de liaison avec les encoches des pierres adjacentes, est complété par un sertissage périphérique vi­sible (17) dit "en serti clos" réalisé par une feuille métallique périphérique dont au moins des parties du bord supérieur (18) sont rabattues sur le feuilletis desdites pierres bordant le pavage.6. Frame according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the crimping of the peripheral stones (1a) of the crimped assembly which have at least one of their notches (2) engaged on a head (12) of connection with the notches of the adjacent stones, is completed by a visible peripheral crimping (17) called "in closed setting" produced by a peripheral metal sheet of which at least parts of the upper edge (18) are folded over the laminate of said stones bordering the paving. 7. Monture selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 5, caractérisée en ce que le sertissage des pierres périphériques (1a) de l'ensemble serti qui ont au moins une de leurs encoches (2) enga­gée sur une tête (12) de liaison avec les encoches des pierres adja­centes, est complété par un sertissage invisible avec des griffes périphériques (11b) dont les têtes (12) s'engagent dans la ou les encoches périphériques (2) des pierres périphériques, les parties des têtes des griffes qui débordent sur les côtés du pavage étant éliminées après réglage des pierres par limage ou meulage et lesdi­tes griffes étant éventuellement masquées par un coffrage métalli­que (19) ou des motifs rapportés joignant la périphérie de la gril­le aux parties des facettes des culasses situées entre les enco­ches et le feuilletis.7. Frame according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the crimping of the peripheral stones (1a) of the crimped assembly which have at least one of their notches (2) engaged on a head (12) of connection with the notches of the adjacent stones, is completed by an invisible setting with claws peripherals (11b) whose heads (12) engage in the peripheral notch (s) (2) of the peripheral stones, the parts of the heads of the claws which extend beyond the sides of the paving being removed after adjusting the stones by filing or grinding and said claws being possibly masked by a metal formwork (19) or added patterns joining the periphery of the grid to the parts of the facets of the cylinder heads situated between the notches and the laminate.
EP88400090A 1987-01-20 1988-01-18 Setting for the invisible laying of stones with a closure piece having a notch under the girdle Withdrawn EP0276183A1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR8700557 1987-01-20
FR8700557A FR2609605B1 (en) 1987-01-20 1987-01-20 INVISIBLE CRIMPING MOUNT FOR AREAS HEADSTONES WITH NOTCH BELOW LAMINATES

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EP0276183A1 true EP0276183A1 (en) 1988-07-27

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Cited By (9)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US5123265A (en) * 1989-10-20 1992-06-23 Boaz Ramot Invisible gemstone setting
WO1992014376A1 (en) * 1991-02-13 1992-09-03 D. Swarovski & Co. Compound of gems and associated production method
GB2258601A (en) * 1991-08-16 1993-02-17 Paul Samuel Kutchinsky Gemstone mounting
US5520017A (en) * 1995-01-25 1996-05-28 Oren Vivat Jewelry items with invisible gemstone settings and methods of assembly therefore
ES2122885A1 (en) * 1995-10-02 1998-12-16 Druguet S A Novel system for the invisible setting (mounting) of stones in fine jewellery
US8627682B2 (en) * 2012-03-26 2014-01-14 K.M. Design Jewels, Inc. Modular jewelry
EP3539406A1 (en) * 2018-03-13 2019-09-18 Dress Your Body S.A. Method for setting stones in a supporting element and decorative article
WO2019180116A1 (en) 2018-03-21 2019-09-26 Hamard Vitau Piece of jewellery, method for cutting a stone, in particular a diamond, and associated mounting pin
CH718254A1 (en) * 2021-01-15 2022-07-15 Geesco Assembly by setting a precious or semi-precious stone on a setting support.

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR802367A (en) * 1936-02-24 1936-09-03 Cleef & Arpels Van Improvements to gemstone settings
FR827350A (en) * 1936-09-30 1938-04-25 Cartier Jewel comprising one or more stones and in particular a paving or a mosaic of stones
GB513037A (en) * 1936-12-17 1939-10-02 Asprey & Company Ltd Improvements in or relating to the setting of precious stones and the like
EP0201394A1 (en) * 1985-04-19 1986-11-12 Henry-Jean Azema Process for cutting a diamond to otain an invisible setting, polishing process and device for producing it

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR802367A (en) * 1936-02-24 1936-09-03 Cleef & Arpels Van Improvements to gemstone settings
FR827350A (en) * 1936-09-30 1938-04-25 Cartier Jewel comprising one or more stones and in particular a paving or a mosaic of stones
GB513037A (en) * 1936-12-17 1939-10-02 Asprey & Company Ltd Improvements in or relating to the setting of precious stones and the like
EP0201394A1 (en) * 1985-04-19 1986-11-12 Henry-Jean Azema Process for cutting a diamond to otain an invisible setting, polishing process and device for producing it

Cited By (10)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US5123265A (en) * 1989-10-20 1992-06-23 Boaz Ramot Invisible gemstone setting
WO1992014376A1 (en) * 1991-02-13 1992-09-03 D. Swarovski & Co. Compound of gems and associated production method
GB2258601A (en) * 1991-08-16 1993-02-17 Paul Samuel Kutchinsky Gemstone mounting
GB2258601B (en) * 1991-08-16 1994-09-21 Paul Samuel Kutchinsky Gemstone mounting
US5520017A (en) * 1995-01-25 1996-05-28 Oren Vivat Jewelry items with invisible gemstone settings and methods of assembly therefore
ES2122885A1 (en) * 1995-10-02 1998-12-16 Druguet S A Novel system for the invisible setting (mounting) of stones in fine jewellery
US8627682B2 (en) * 2012-03-26 2014-01-14 K.M. Design Jewels, Inc. Modular jewelry
EP3539406A1 (en) * 2018-03-13 2019-09-18 Dress Your Body S.A. Method for setting stones in a supporting element and decorative article
WO2019180116A1 (en) 2018-03-21 2019-09-26 Hamard Vitau Piece of jewellery, method for cutting a stone, in particular a diamond, and associated mounting pin
CH718254A1 (en) * 2021-01-15 2022-07-15 Geesco Assembly by setting a precious or semi-precious stone on a setting support.

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
FR2609605B1 (en) 1990-06-22
FR2609605A1 (en) 1988-07-22

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