EP0080522B1 - Sicherungsvorrichtung - Google Patents

Sicherungsvorrichtung Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0080522B1
EP0080522B1 EP19810109991 EP81109991A EP0080522B1 EP 0080522 B1 EP0080522 B1 EP 0080522B1 EP 19810109991 EP19810109991 EP 19810109991 EP 81109991 A EP81109991 A EP 81109991A EP 0080522 B1 EP0080522 B1 EP 0080522B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
rope
parts
fact
service position
aligned
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired
Application number
EP19810109991
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP0080522A1 (de
Inventor
Jacques-Martin Lopez
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Individual
Original Assignee
Individual
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority to CH690979A priority Critical patent/CH631630A5/fr
Application filed by Individual filed Critical Individual
Priority to EP19810109991 priority patent/EP0080522B1/de
Priority to DE8181109991T priority patent/DE3174353D1/de
Priority to AT81109991T priority patent/ATE18997T1/de
Publication of EP0080522A1 publication Critical patent/EP0080522A1/de
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0080522B1 publication Critical patent/EP0080522B1/de
Expired legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A62—LIFE-SAVING; FIRE-FIGHTING
    • A62B—DEVICES, APPARATUS OR METHODS FOR LIFE-SAVING
    • A62B1/00—Devices for lowering persons from buildings or the like
    • A62B1/02—Devices for lowering persons from buildings or the like by making use of rescue cages, bags, or the like
    • A62B1/04—Single parts, e.g. fastening devices
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A62—LIFE-SAVING; FIRE-FIGHTING
    • A62B—DEVICES, APPARATUS OR METHODS FOR LIFE-SAVING
    • A62B1/00—Devices for lowering persons from buildings or the like
    • A62B1/06—Devices for lowering persons from buildings or the like by making use of rope-lowering devices
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63—SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63B—APPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B29/00—Apparatus for mountaineering
    • A63B29/02—Mountain guy-ropes or accessories, e.g. avalanche ropes; Means for indicating the location of accidentally buried, e.g. snow-buried, persons

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a belay device, more particularly intended for mountaineers, which allows simple, rapid and safe handling, which provides total and automatic security and which moreover makes it possible to perform several other functions.
  • This last possibility is particularly interesting because it avoids the mountaineer to load with several devices specific to a job only and which increase its load.
  • Patent FR 2,478,475 discloses a descender device for the controlled descent of a user along a vertical rope attached to an upstream point which comprises two parallel flanges, articulated one on the other to allow winding S-shaped rope on a movable pulley and a fixed pulley located between the flanges.
  • This device only serves a single function and includes delicate elements such as pulleys and a spring that can seize or break.
  • the object of the invention is to produce a simple and robust multifunction belay device.
  • the belay device comprises two parts, connected by an articulation, angularly movable relative to one another and is distinguished by the fact that each of the two parts comprises at least two cutouts whose shape and dimensions are such that when the two pieces are in the aligned service position, these cutouts define two closed rope passages while when the two pieces are angularly offset with respect to each other each rope passage has an opening.
  • the belay device comprises two parts 1, 2 connected by a hinge formed here by a rivet 3.
  • the two parts 1 and 2 are held against one another at l using the rivet 3 and can move angularly relative to one another by pivoting around this pivot 3 to pass from a service position illustrated in FIGS. 1 and 2 for which the two parts 1 and 2 are aligned to a position illustrated in Figure 3 for which the parts are angularly offset.
  • the first part 1 comprises three cutouts 4, 5 and 6 which each have an opening 7, 8 and 9 respectively.
  • the second part 2 also includes three cutouts 4 ', 5' and 6 'which each have an opening 10, 11 and 12 respectively.
  • parts 1 and 2 each still have a bore 15, 16 in their lower part which are aligned when the device is in the service position. In their upper part, parts 1 and 2 each have a hook 17, 18.
  • the part 2 has on its free face a wedging stop 19 inclined relative to the plane of the part 2.
  • the piece 1 has above the hook 17 a riveted counter-piece 20, the lower part has a hook 21.-This counter-piece 20 defines with the piece 1 a V-shaped groove 27 opening out in the hook 21 of this counter -piece 20.
  • a locking device 22, for example a ball catch makes it possible to fix the two parts in their operating position.
  • two inserts 23, 24 fixed one on the arm 25 of the part 1 and the other on the arm 26 of the part 2, bordering the cutouts 6, 6 ', have in section the general shape of a U and form in the service position a handle that can be firmly tightened by the user.
  • Parts 1 and 2 are angularly offset ( Figure 3) so that the rope passages are open.
  • the user then takes his rope, passes it first through the openings 8 and 11, then through the openings 9 and 12 and finally through the openings 7 and 10.
  • the user then returns the device to the service position ( Figure 1 and 2) ensuring that the rope is properly placed in the upper part of the cutouts 5, 5 ', it is then held in this upper part by the teeth 13 and 14 which prevents it from sliding down the cuts 5, 5 '.
  • a carabiner 28 is passed through the holes 15, 16 as well as into a piton 29 fixed in the rock.
  • the insurer also secures the piton 28 with a rope link 30.
  • the person to be insured is attached to the bottom of the rope 31 which, for added security, can still pass through a guide formed by two carabiners 32, 33 connected by a link of rope 35 of which one has passed through a piton 35 while the other receives the rope 31.
  • Figures 7 and 8 illustrate the use of the belay device as safety during an abseiling.
  • the upper end of the rope 31 is fixed at the top of a wall to be rappelled while the belay device is fixed to the user by two carabiners and a rope link.
  • the free end of the rope 31 is then passed through the carabiner close to the body of the mountaineer caught in the hooks 17, 18.
  • the belay device can also be used as a fall arrest device ( Figures 9 and 10) during solo ascent.
  • the user attaches to the fall arrester using a carabiner and takes the handle of the device in hand. As long as it maintains the latter approximately perpendicular to the stretched strand T of the rope 31, the user is free of movement. As soon as it falls, releases the handle, the device is placed parallel to the stretched strand T of the rope 31 under the weight of the user, which causes blocking by overlapping the rope and application of the latter against the oblique stop. 19.
  • the device is used as a single rope brake.
  • the belay device is - - fixed to a piton in the rock and the free end L of the rope passes over the hooks 17, 18 then on another piton.
  • the load is fixed to the stretched strand T of the rope 31.
  • the rope can spin.
  • the speed of travel of the rope 31 depends on the inclination of the device, the more it approaches the vertical the greater the brake effect. If the free end L is completely released, the device is placed in the vertical locking position under the effect of the weight of the load.
  • FIG. 14 illustrates a rope brake with muffle effect, the free strand L of the rope 31 is first passed through the first fixed carabiner, then over the hooks 17, 18 of the device and finally into a second fixed carabiner.
  • the operation of this rope brake is the same as that described. previously.
  • the belay device described can also be used as a stirrup handle, the blocking operation being always the same.
  • the belay device as a climbing handle as illustrated in Figures 11 and 12.
  • the rope works with the hook 21 and ⁇ the V 27.
  • the user can slide the device along the rope 31 and then fold the device by a rotation to the right until in the position illustrated in Figure 12 for which it is locked towards the rope 31.
  • the use can by blocking a device on the rope 31 and by making carry all its weight on this one unlock the other device and make it slide up along the rope, block it and transfer its weight to this second device while it moves the first along the rope 31.
  • Figures 15 and 16 illustrate a simplified embodiment of the device serving as a "fall-arrest”.
  • the device comprises two parts 36, 37 fixed to one another and articulated by a rivet 38.
  • Each of the parts 36, 37 comprises two cutters 39, 39 'and 40, 40' each having an opening to the outside 41, 41 '; 42, 42 '.
  • these openings coincide ( Figure 16) while that in the service position, the parts being aligned, the openings are offset so that the rope passages formed by the cutouts 39, 39 'and 40, 40' are closed.
  • the cord 31 passes in the cord passage 40, 40 ′ then in the second cord passage 39.39 ′, surrounds the middle part carrying the rivet 38, of the two parts 36, 37, coming out through the notch open 43.

Landscapes

  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Business, Economics & Management (AREA)
  • Emergency Management (AREA)
  • Emergency Lowering Means (AREA)

Claims (8)

1. Sicherungsvorrichtung, insbesondere für Alpinisten, mit zwei Teilen (1. 2; 36, 37), die über ein Gelenk (3; 38) miteinander verbunden sind und gegeneinander verd eht werden können, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß jedes der beiden Teile (1, 2; 36,37) mindestens zwei Ausschnitte (4, 4'; 5, 5'; 6, 6'; 39, 39', 40, 40') aufweist, deren Form und Lage derart ist, daß, wenn diese beiden Teile in ausgerichterter Betriebsstellung liegen, diese Ausschnitte zwei geschlossene Seildurchgänge definieren, während, wenn die beiden Teile gegeneinander winkelmäßig gespreizt sind, jeder der Seildurchgänge eine Öffnung (7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 41, 41', 42, 42') aufweist.
2. Sicherungsvorrichtung nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß jeder Ausschnitt (4, 4'; 5, 5') eine Öffnung (7, 10; 8, 11) aufweist, wobei die sich entsprechenden Öffnungen (7, 10 und 8,11) der beiden Teile (1, 2) ausgerichtet sind, wenn die beiden Teile winkelmäßig gespreizt sind und wobei die entsprechenden Öffnungen gegeneinander versetzt sind, wenn die beiden Teile sich in Betriebsstellung befinden.
3. Sicherungsvorrichtung nach Anspruch' 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß jedes Teil (1, 2) an seinem unteren Ende eine Bohrung (15, 16) und an seinem oberen Ende einen Haken (11, 18) aufweist, wobei diese Bohrungen und diese Haken in Betriebsstellung der Vorrichtung ausgerichtet sind.
4. Sicherungsvorrichtung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 3, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß das Gelenk durch eine Niete (3; 38) gebildet wird.
5. Sicherungsvorrichtung nach Anspruch 2 oder 3, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß eines (2) der Teile (1, 2) in der Nähe des oberen Bereiches seines zentralen Ausschnitts (5') mit einem Anschlag (19) versehen ist, der mit der Ebene des Teils (2) in der Richtung dieses zentralen Ausschnitts einen spitzen Winkel bildet.
6. Sicherungsvorrichtung nach Anspruch 1 oder Anspruch 5, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß jedes der Teile (1, 2) eine zahnförmige Spitze (13, 14) aufweist, die sich in das Innere des zentralen Ausschnitts (5, 5') erstreckt, wobei diese zahnförmigen Spitzen in Betriebsstellung der Vorrichtung den durch die zentralen Ausschnitte der Teile gebildeten Seildurchgang in zwei Bereiche teilen.
7. Sicherungsvorrichtung nach Anspruch 1 oder 5, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß das Teil (1), das den Anschlag (19) nicht trägt, ein Gegenstück (20) aufweist, das einerseits einen Haken (21) und andererseits ein V-förmiges Klemmelement (27) mit der Ebene diese Teils bildet.
8. Sicherungsvorrichtung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 7, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß jedes Teil (1, 2) drei Ausschnitte (4, 4'; 5,5' ; 6, 6') aufweist, die in Betriebsstellung drei geschlossene Seildurchgänge definieren.
EP19810109991 1979-07-26 1981-11-28 Sicherungsvorrichtung Expired EP0080522B1 (de)

Priority Applications (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CH690979A CH631630A5 (fr) 1979-07-26 1979-07-26 Dispositif d'assurage.
EP19810109991 EP0080522B1 (de) 1979-07-26 1981-11-28 Sicherungsvorrichtung
DE8181109991T DE3174353D1 (en) 1981-11-28 1981-11-28 Securing device
AT81109991T ATE18997T1 (de) 1981-11-28 1981-11-28 Sicherungsvorrichtung.

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CH690979A CH631630A5 (fr) 1979-07-26 1979-07-26 Dispositif d'assurage.
EP19810109991 EP0080522B1 (de) 1979-07-26 1981-11-28 Sicherungsvorrichtung

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0080522A1 EP0080522A1 (de) 1983-06-08
EP0080522B1 true EP0080522B1 (de) 1986-04-09

Family

ID=25700371

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP19810109991 Expired EP0080522B1 (de) 1979-07-26 1981-11-28 Sicherungsvorrichtung

Country Status (2)

Country Link
EP (1) EP0080522B1 (de)
CH (1) CH631630A5 (de)

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2632196B1 (fr) * 1988-06-03 1990-08-24 Simond Ludger Sa Descendeur autobloquant

Family Cites Families (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2478475A2 (fr) * 1980-03-24 1981-09-25 Petzl Paul Descendeur equipe d'un dispositif d'autoblocage de la corde

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
CH631630A5 (fr) 1982-08-31
EP0080522A1 (de) 1983-06-08

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