EA013329B1 - Cosmetically acceptable composition and - Google Patents

Abstract

A cosmetically acceptable composition comprising one or more hydrophobically modified polyacrylamides, one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients, wherein the hydrophobically modified polyacrylamides comprises acrylamide, one or more cationic monomers and optionally one or more anionic monomers and modified by transamidation with one or more hydrophobic amines and to a method of treating a substrate selected from hair, skin or nails comprising applying the cosmetically acceptable composition to the substrate. The composition may be incorporated into products for treating hair, skin and nails and also into household products such as household cleaners and laundry detergents.

Description

Field of Invention

This invention relates to a cosmetically acceptable composition comprising a polyacrylamide consisting of acrylamide, one or more cationic monomers and optionally one or more anionic monomers, where the polyacrylamide is modified by the introduction of hydrophobic groups, and to a method of using this composition for treating hair, skin and nails .

State of the art

Over the past twenty years, the industry of personal care products has expanded to the field of hydrophobically modified polymers, mainly in the field of thickening. Such ingredients include modified hydroxyethyl cellulose and acrylates / behenet-25 methacrylate.

The motivation for obtaining new polymers containing various alkyl groups is the need to introduce properties that cannot be achieved only due to unmodified acrylate or acrylamide polymers. Despite the continuous introduction of new polymer products, monomeric quaternary compounds, fatty amines, fatty alcohols and emollients continue to play a very important role in personal care products. Many products contain at least a small amount of these substances. However, these conditioning agents can accumulate over time on substrates such as hair, whereby the volume of hair decreases. Therefore, there is a constant need for new products with properties that cannot be achieved with traditional polymers and that do not have the disadvantages associated with the currently used monomer materials.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention is a cosmetically acceptable composition comprising one or more hydrophobically modified polyacrylamides and one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients, where the hydrophobically modified polyacrylamide consists of acrylamide, one or more cationic monomers and possibly one or more anionic monomers and is modified by transamidation with one or more hydrophobic amines.

The hydrophobically modified polyacrylamide improves properties such as creamy consistency, gliding, sensation, toughness and moisturizing, depending on the type of hydrophobic moiety incorporated into the polymer.

The invention also provides a method for treating a substrate selected from hair, skin, or nails, comprising applying a cosmetically acceptable composition to the substrate.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION “Anionic monomer” means a monomer, as defined herein, that has a negative net charge above a certain pH value. Representative anionic monomers include base addition salts of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, 2-acrylamide-2-methyl-1-propanesulfonic acid, sulfopropyl acrylate or methacrylate, or other water-soluble forms of these or other polymerizable carboxylic and sulfonic acids, sulfomethylated acrylamide, allyl sulfonate, styrene sulfonic acid, sodium vinyl sulfonate, and the like.

“Base addition salt” means a salt resulting from the reaction of a carboxyl group of a carboxylic acid (—CO ₂ H) with a suitable base, such as a hydroxide, carbonate or bicarbonate of a metal cation or tetraalkylammonium cation, or with ammonia, or an organic primary, secondary or tertiary an amine having a basicity sufficient to form a salt with a carboxylic acid group of a carboxylic acid. Representative alkali or alkaline earth metal salts are sodium, lithium, potassium, calcium, magnesium and the like. Representative organic amines used to form base addition salts include ethylamine, diethylamine, ethylenediamine, ethanolamine, diethanolamine, piperazine and the like. Preferred base addition salts include sodium and ammonium salts.

"Cationic monomer" means a vinyl monomer suitable for copolymerization with acrylamide under the conditions of formation of free radicals and capable of maintaining a positive net charge after the transamidation reaction, as described in this application. Representative cationic monomers include, but are not limited to, monomers having the following formulas:

- 1 013329

where Κ.ι-Κ.13 are independently selected from H, -CH ₃ and -CH ₂ CH ₃ and η is 2 or 3.

“IV” means the intrinsic viscosity, which is the reduced specific viscosity (Κ8ν) extrapolated to the limit of infinite dilution, with infinite dilution taking place at a polymer concentration of zero.

“Hydrophobic alkyl group” means an alkyl, alkenyl, cycloalkyl, aryl or arylalkyl group having from about 4 to about 22 carbon atoms. Alkyl and alkenyl groups can be straight chain or branched and can be interrupted by one or more of the groups —O81 (K ′) (K) - and -81 (K ′) (K) -, where K ′ and K are C ₁ -C _4- alkyl.

“Hydrophobic amine” means a compound containing at least one hydrophobic group and at least one hydrogen atom of an amino group capable of undergoing a transamidation reaction with the amido group of (-ϋ (Ο) ΝΗ ₂ ) polyacrylamide as defined herein to form a hydrophobically modified polyacrylamide. Hydrophobic amines containing —O81 (K ′) (K) - and -81 (K ′) (K) groups are also referred to as “amino functionalized silanes”. Representative hydrophobic amines include benzylamine, cyclohexylamine, hexylamine, methylhexylamine, phenethylamine, octylamine, oleylamine, decylamine, dodecylamine, octadecylamine and the like.

Representative amino functionalized silanes include amines of the formula

where p is equal to a number from about 5 to about 500, sold by AMpsy, My ^ aikee, ^ 1; aminoethylpropylsilicone compounds sold by Νονυοιι, C1еуе1апй, ОН, under the trademark и11га§й, and 8111ес11 SogrogNop, ΤοίΌΐιΙο, Op1apo, Sapaya, under the trademark 8йаште; and silicones with functional amino groups, including Ι) ο \ ν Sogtp®® 839, Ι) ο \ ν Sogtp® 939, Ι) ο \ ν Sogtp® 949, Ι) ο \ ν Sogtp® 2-8194, all sold Ι) ο \ ν Sogtpd, M1y1apy, M1, and 8Schope 8M 253, sold by Oepega1 E1es1g1s, XGaYuGogs !, ΝΥ.

“Hydrophobically modified polymer” and “hydrophobically modified polyacrylamide” means polyacrylamide as defined herein, where a portion of the amido groups (—C (O) Ν 11 ₂ ) in the polymer backbone are modified by transamidation with a hydrophobic amine. Accordingly, in addition to the repeating units formed by cationic monomers and any anionic monomers, the hydrophobically modified polymer contains repeating units having the structures shown below, where X'KaKb represents a hydrophobic group formed by transamidation with a hydrophobic amine and M represents H or a base addition salt.

ΝΗ _Ζ

c == o

I ohm "Polyacrylamide" means a polymer formed by the polymerization of acrylamide, one

- 2 013329 th or more cationic monomers and any anionic monomers, as defined herein, under the conditions of formation of free radicals. Suitable polyacrylamides are commercially available in the form of an emulsion, dispersion, solution and powder, or can be obtained by standard methods used for the radical polymerization of vinyl monomers.

"K.8U" means the specific gravity. In a series of polymer homologs that are essentially linear and well solvated, measurements of “reduced specific viscosity (K.8U)” for dilute polymer solutions are an indication of polymer chain length and average molecular weight according to Para1 1. P1ogu, “Rpps1p1e8 o £ Рол1утег Ситетсюю », Сот11 Ишуегайу Ргс55. Iyasa, ΝΥ., © 1953, Sarlég VII, “Peelgit paiop o Мо Mo1eci1ag XUe ^ Ex”, p. 266-316. K.8U is measured at a given polymer concentration and given temperature and calculated as follows:

K5U = [(/) / ^) - 1] s

where η is the viscosity of the polymer solution;

η ₀ is the viscosity of the solvent at the same temperature;

C is the concentration of polymer in solution.

The concentration unit "c" is gram / 100 ml or g / deciliter. Therefore, the K.8U unit is dl / g. In this patent application, a 1.0 molar sodium chloride solution is used to measure K.8U, unless specifically indicated otherwise. The polymer concentration in this solvent is 0.100 g / dl. K.8U is measured at 30 ° C. The viscosities η and η ₀ are measured using a viscometer with half-microdilution Sappop bilboe, size 75. The viscometer is installed in a strictly vertical position in a bath with a constant temperature set to 30 ± 0.02 ° C. The error of the device in calculating K.8U is approximately 2 dl / g. If two polymer homologs within the series have similar K.8U, then this indicates that they have a similar molecular weight.

“Cosmetically acceptable excipient” means a non-toxic, non-irritating substance that when mixed with the hydrophobically modified polymer of this invention makes the polymer more suitable for application to hair or skin.

In one embodiment, the hydrophobically modified polymer of this invention is obtained by transamidation of the amido groups (-Ο (Θ) ΝΗ ₂ ) of a cationic polyacrylamide with one or more hydrophobic amines, taken in an amount of from about 0.1 to about 10 mol%, when heated at elevated temperature and pressure. To maintain the hydrophobic amine in its basic form, and not in its protonated form, a base may be added. Suitable bases include ammonia, hydroxides and carbonates of alkali and alkaline earth metals.

In one embodiment, the cationic polyacrylamide is mixed with an aqueous sulfite solution prepared from sodium metabisulfite and sodium hydroxide in a stainless steel pressure reactor at a pH of about 9-10. A hydrophobic amine is added and air in the reactor is displaced with nitrogen. The mixture is heated at a temperature of from about 120 to about 180 ° C. for a period of time from about 0.5 to about 8 hours. In one embodiment, the mixture is heated at about 140 ° C. for 5 hours. The obtained hydrophobically modified polymer is then diluted to the desired concentrations with water and possibly treated with one or more preservatives at elevated temperatures. In one embodiment, the solution of the hydrophobically modified polymer is treated with methyl paraben or propyl paraben at 85-90 ° C for 1 h. The product is characterized by viscometry, C ¹³ NMR, GC (gas chromatography) and GPC (gel permeation chromatography).

In one embodiment, the cationic polyacrylamide consists of acrylamide in an amount of at least about 50 mol%.

In one embodiment, the hydrophobically modified polymer has K.8U from about 0.1 to about 8 dl / g.

In one embodiment, the cationic monomers are selected from diallyldimethylammonium chloride and methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride.

In one embodiment, the hydrophobic amines are selected from the group consisting of C ₆ -C ₂₂ alkylamines and amino functionalized silicones.

In one embodiment, the hydrophobically modified polymer has K.8U from about 1 to about 5.

In one embodiment, the cationic polyacrylamide is an acrylamide / diallyldimethylammonium chloride copolymer.

In one embodiment, the alkyl amines are selected from the group consisting of octylamine, dodecylamine and hexadecylamine.

In one embodiment, the composition further comprises one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients.

In one embodiment, the cosmetically acceptable composition comprises from about 0.01 to about 40 wt.% Hydrophobically modified polymer, calculated on the dry residue

- 3 013329 polymers.

In one embodiment, the cosmetically acceptable excipients are selected from the group consisting of saccharides, surfactants, humectants, petroleum jelly, mineral oil, fatty alcohols, emollients based on esters of fatty acids, waxes and silicone waxes, silicone oil, silicone fluid, silicone surfactants, volatile hydrocarbon oils, quaternary nitrogen compounds, functionalized amino groups of silicones, conditioning polymers, rheological modifiers, antioxidants idantov, sunscreen active agents, long-chain diamines of from about ₂₂ C to Xu, long chain fatty amines from about C ₂₂ to Xu, fatty alcohols, ethoxylated fatty alcohols and phospholipids with two tails.

Typical representatives of saccharides are nonionic and cationic saccharides such as agarose, amylopectins, amyloses, arabinans, arabinogalactans, arabinoxylols, carrageenans, gum arabic, carboxymethyl guar gum, carboxymethyl (hydroxypropyl) guar gum, gum hydroxyethyl, hydroxyethyl gum, hydroxyethyl gum, hydroxyethyl gum, hydroxyethyl gum, hydroxyethyl gum including methyl cellulose, chondroitins, chitins, chitosan, chitosanpyrrolidone carboxylate, chitosan glycolate, chitosan lactate, cocodimonium hydroxypropyloxyethylcell julose, colominic acid (poly-Y-acetylneuraminic acid), corn starch, curdlan, dermatinsulfate, dextrans, furcellarana, dextrans, cross-linked dextrans, dextrin, emulsane, ethylhydroxyethyl cellulose, flaxseed mannanomania, gamma nectar, glycogens, guar gum, hydroxyethyl starch, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl starch, hydroxypropylated guar gum, gellan gum, gellan, ghat gum ty, karaya gum, tragacanth gum (tragacanthin), heparin, hyaluronic acid, inulin, keratin sulfate, konzhak mannan, modified starches, laminaranes, laurdimonium hydroxypropyloxyethyl cellulose, gum oxide, oxidized starch, starch, starch , polyquaternium-28, potato starch, protopectins, psyllium seed gum, pullulan, sodium hyaluronate, diethylaminoethyl starch ether, starch hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, steardim niygidroksietiltsellyuloza, raffinose, Ramzan, tapioca starch, welan, levan, scleroglucan, sodium alginate, stahiloza, succinoglycan, wheat starch, xanthan gum, xylans, xyloglucans, and mixtures thereof. Saccharides of microorganisms can be found in К1гк-01йег Еисус1ореб1а οί Сиеш1са1 Тесйио1оду, ίοιιΠίι Εάίίίοη, Уо1.16, ίοΐιη \ Уеу аиб 8ой5, ΝΥ, р. 578-611 (1994), which is fully incorporated into this description by reference. Complex carbohydrates can be found in Kik-Osheg Jesus Christ 1, Soyesh 1 Tecio 1od, Eoiy Ebui, Uo 1.4, 1o ^ 11eu aib 8oi5, ΝΥ, p. 930-948, 1995, which is incorporated herein by reference.

The cosmetically acceptable composition of this invention may contain surfactants. Surfactants include surfactants, which usually provide a detergent function of the drug or act simply as moisturizing agents.

Typically, surfactants can be classified as anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, and zwitterionic surfactants.

Anionic surfactants used herein include anionic surfactants, which are disclosed in US Pat. No. 5,573,709, which is incorporated herein by reference. Examples include alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether sulfates. Specific examples of alkyl ether sulfates that can be used in this invention are the sodium and ammonium salts of lauryl sulfate, lauryl ether sulfate, coconut alkyl triethylene glycol ether sulfate; tall alkyl triethylene glycol ether sulfate; and tall alkyl hexaoxyethylene sulfate. Preferred alkyl ether sulfates are alkyl ether sulfates containing a mixture of the individual compounds, said mixture having an average alkyl chain of from about 12 to about 16 carbon atoms and an average degree of ethoxylation of from about 1 to about 6 mol of ethylene oxide.

Another suitable class of anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfuric acid salts. Important examples are salts of the organic sulfuric acid reaction product of a methane hydrocarbon, including iso-, neo-, ineso- and n-paraffins having from about 12 to about 24 carbon atoms, preferably from about 12 to about 18 carbon atoms, and a sulfonating agent, for example 8O ₃ , H ₂ 8O ₄ , oleum obtained by known sulfonation methods, including bleaching and hydrolysis. Sulfated C1 _2-38 n-paraffins in the form of alkali metal and ammonium salts are preferred.

Additional synthetic anionic surfactants include olefin sulfonates, beta-alkyloxyalkanesulfonates and reaction products of fatty acids esterified with isethionic acid and neutralized with sodium hydroxide, as well as succinamates. Con

- 4 013329 specific examples of succinamates include disodium-Y-octadecyl sulfosuccinamate; tetrasodium-Ν (1,2-dicarboxyethyl) -Y-octadecyl sulfosuccinamate; sodium sulfosuccinic acid diamyl ester; sodium sulfosuccinic acid dihexyl ester; dioctyl esters of sodium sulfosuccinic acid.

Preferred anionic surfactants for use in the cosmetically acceptable composition of this invention include ammonium lauryl sulfate, laureth sulfate, ammonium trietilaminlaurilsulfat, trietilaminlauretsulfat, trietanolaminlaurilsulfat, trietanolaminlauretsulfat, monoetanolaminlaurilsulfat, monoetanolaminlauretsulfat, dietanolaminlaurilsulfat, dietanolaminlauretsulfat, natriymonoglitseridlaurilsulfat, sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl potassium lauretsulfa t potassium, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, lauryl sarcosine, kokoilsarkozin, kokoilsulfat ammonium lauroilsulfat ammonium kokoilsulfat, sodium lauroilsulfat, potassium kokoilsulfat, potassium lauryl sulfate, trietanolaminkokoilsulfat, trietanolaminlaurilsulfat, monoetanolaminkokoilsulfat, monoetanolaminlaurilsulfat, sodium dodecylbenzenesulfonate and sodium tridetsilbenzolsulfonat.

Amphoteric surfactants that can be used in the cosmetically acceptable composition of this invention include derivatives of aliphatic secondary and tertiary amines in which the aliphatic substituent contains from about 8 to 18 carbon atoms and an anionic water-soluble group, for example, carboxylic, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate. Typical examples include sodium 3-dodecylaminopropionate, sodium 3-dodecylaminopropanesulfonate, sodium lauryl sarcosinate, Ν-alkyl taurines, such as alkyl taurine obtained by the reaction of dodecylamine with sodium isethionate, as described in US Pat. No. 2,658,072, US Higher Alkyl Asparaginic Acids described No. 2438091, and products sold under the brand name MJAJO ™, described in US Pat. No. 2,528378. Other sarcosinates and derivatives of sarcosinates can be found in STRA Socte11 [Penguin, Napyloch, Iy ηοη, 1988, p. 42, which is included in Dan. description by reference.

Cationic surfactants include, but are not limited to, fatty quaternary ammonium compounds containing from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms. The anion of the quaternary ammonium compound may be a common ion, such as chloride, ethosulfate, methosulfate, acetate, bromide, lactate, nitrate, phosphate or tosylate, and mixtures thereof. Long chain alkyl groups may include additional and substituted carbon or hydrogen atoms or ether bonds. Other quaternary nitrogen substituents may be hydrogen, hydrogen, benzyl, or short chain alkyl, or hydroxyalkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, hydroxymethyl or hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl, or combinations thereof. The structure of typical quaternary ammonium compounds is given in CAPA Sokteys 1ptay1ep1 Napyobok, ΕίΓΐΠ Εάίΐίοη, 1988, p.40.

Examples of quaternary ammonium compounds include, but are not limited to: chloride begentrimoniya, kokotrimoniya chloride, bromide tsetetildimoniya, dibegenildimoniya chloride, dihydrogenated tallow chloride benzilmoniya, disoyadimoniya chloride ditallodimoniya chloride gidroksitsetilgidroksietildimoniya chloride gidroksietilbegenamidopropildimoniya chloride gidroksietiltsetildimoniya chloride gidroksietiltallodimoniya chloride miristalkoniya chloride, RES-2 oleammonium, chloride RES-5 stearmonium, RES-15 cocoylate 4, RES-2 stearalconium 4, chloride lauryltrimony; Quaternium-16; quaternium-18, lauralconium chloride, olealkmonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, polyquaternium-5, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-37, polyquaternium-39, polyquaternium-chloride, 55, polyquaternic cetyltrimonium, dilauryldimonium chloride, cetalkonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, co-trimonium chloride, stearilokyldimonium methosulfate and mixtures thereof. Other quaternary ammonium compounds are listed in CAPA Sokteys 1ptey1ep1 Napyyok, ΕίΓΐΠ Eyyyup, p.41-42, which is incorporated herein by reference.

Cosmetically acceptable compositions may contain double-stranded amines from about C ₁₀ to C ₂₂ , long-chain fatty amines from about C ₁₀ to C _22, and mixtures thereof. Specific examples include dipalmitylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethyl, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.

The cosmetically acceptable compositions of this invention may also contain fatty alcohols (typically monohydric alcohols), ethoxylated fatty alcohols and two-tailed phospholipids that can be used to stabilize emulsion or dispersed forms of cosmetically acceptable compositions. They also provide cosmetically acceptable viscosity. The choice of fatty alcohol is not critical, although in most cases, those alcohols that are characterized as having C10 to C32 fatty chains, preferably C14-C22, which are essentially saturated alkanols, will be used. Examples include stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol and isoacetyl alcohol. Cetyl alcohol is preferred and can be used alone or in combination with other fatty alcohols, preferably with stearyl alcohol. Fatty alcohol, if used, is preferably included in the compositions of this invention in a concentration ranging from about 1 to about 8 wt.%,

- 5 013329 more preferably from about 2 to about 6 wt.%. Fatty alcohols can also be ethoxylated. Specific examples include tseteret-20, stearet-20, stearet-21, and mixtures thereof. Phospholipids, such as phosphatidylserine and phosphatidylcholine, and mixtures thereof may also be included.

Nonionic surfactants that can be used in the cosmetically acceptable composition of this invention include surfactants broadly defined as compounds resulting from the condensation of an alkylene oxide group (hydrophilic in nature) with an organic hydrophobic compound, which may be in nature aliphatic or alkylaromatic. Examples of preferred classes of nonionic surfactants are long chain alkanolamides; polyethylene oxide condensates of alkyl phenols; the condensation product of aliphatic alcohols having from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms in either a straight-chain or branched configuration with ethylene oxide; long chain tertiary amine oxides; long chain tertiary phosphine oxides; long chain dialkyl sulfoxides containing one short chain alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical of from about 1 to about 3 carbon atoms; and alkyl polysaccharide (AP8) surfactants such as alkyl polyglycosides; polyethylene glycol (RES) glyceryl fatty acid esters.

Zwitterionic surfactants, such as betaines, can also be used in the cosmetically acceptable composition of this invention. Examples of betaines useful in the present composition include the higher alkyl betaines, such as kokodimetilkarboksimetilbetain, cocoamidopropyl betaine, cocobetaine, laurilamidopropilbetain, oleyl betaine, laurildimetilkarboksimetilbetain, lauryl-alpha-carboxyethyl betaine, tsetildimetilkarboksimetilbetain, lauryl bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) carboxymethyl betaine, stearyl bis- (2-hydroxypropyl) carboxymethyl betaine, oleyl dimethyl-gamma-carboxypropyl betaine and lauryl-bis- (2-hydroxypropyl) alpha-carboxyethyl betaine. Sulfobetaines can be represented by cocodimethylsulfopropyl betaine, stearyl dimethyl sulfopropyl betaine, lauryl dimethyl sulfoethyl betaine, lauryl bis (2-hydroxyethyl) sulfopropyl betaine and the like. Amidobetaines and amidosulfobetaines, where the ΚΟΟΝΗ (ΟΗ ₂ ) ₃ radical is attached to the betaine nitrogen atom, are also useful in this invention.

Anionic, cationogenic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants useful in the cosmetically acceptable composition of this invention are usually used in an amount of from about 0.1 to 50 wt.%, Preferably from about 0.5 to about 40 wt.% more preferably from about 1 to about 20 wt.%.

The cosmetically acceptable composition of this invention may contain humectants that act as hygroscopic agents, increasing the amount of water absorbed, trapped and retained. Suitable humectants for the compositions of this invention include MEA acetamide, ammonium lactate, chitosan and its derivatives, colloidal oatmeal, galactoarabinan, glucose glutamate, glycerite-7, glycerite-12, glyceret-26, glycerite-31, glycerol, lactamide ME, ΌΕΑ, lactic acid, methylglucet-10, methylglucet-20, panthenol, propylene glycol, sorbitol, polyethylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, hydrogenated starch hydrolyzate, inositol, mannitol, RES-5 pentaerythritol ether, polyglycerol , xylitol, sucrose, hyaluronate n Tria, sodium PCA, and combinations thereof, but is not limited thereto. A particularly preferred humectant is glycerin. A humectant is present in the composition in a concentration of from about 0.5 to about 40 wt.%, Preferably from about 0.5 to about 20 wt.%, And more preferably from about 0.5 to about 12 wt.%.

The cosmetically acceptable composition of this invention may contain petroleum jelly or mineral oil components, which, if selected, will typically be I8P or ΝΕ grade. Vaseline can be white or yellow. The viscosity or consistency of petroleum jelly is not strictly critical. Petroleum jelly can be partially replaced by mixtures of hydrocarbon materials, which can be included in the composition if they are similar to petrolatum in appearance and consistency. For example, mixtures of petroleum jelly or mineral oil with various waxes can be formulated, etc. Preferred waxes include wax wax, candle wax, ceresin, jojoba oil, lanolin wax, mountain wax, ozokerite, polyglyceryl-3-beeswax, polyglyceryl-6 pentastearate, microcrystalline wax, paraffin wax, isoparaffin, paraffin paraffin wax, squalene, oligomeric olefins, beeswax, synthetic candle wax, synthetic carnauba wax, synthetic beeswax, and the like, which can be mixed together. Alkylmethylsiloxanes with various degrees of substitution can be used to increase skin water retention. Siloxanes such as stearyl dimethicone, known as 2503 \ Wah. C30-45 alkylmethicone, known as AM8-C30 ^ ax, and stearoxytrimethylsilane (s) stearyl alcohol, known as 580 ^ ax, each of which is sold Ωο \ ν Sogtid®, MSHAIB, M1, I8A. To enhance the moisturizing properties, additional alkyl and phenyl silicones can be used. Resins such as dimethicone (s) trimethylsiloxysilicate known as Ωον Sogshid® 593, or cyclomethicone (s) trimethylsiloxysilicate,

- 6 013329 known as Bote Sogshid® 749. can be used to enhance film formation by skin care products. Vaseline. wax or hydrocarbon. or oil component. if using it. is included in the composition in a concentration of from about 1 to about 20 wt.%. more preferably from about 1 to about 12 wt.%. Silicone resins. if they are used. may be included in the composition in a concentration of from about 0.1 to about 10.0 wt.%.

Emollients are defined as agents. helping to keep skin soft. smooth and supple. Emollients perform their function due to their ability to remain on the surface of the skin or in the stratum corneum. The cosmetically acceptable compositions of this invention may contain emollient fatty acid emollients. which are listed in 1p1sgpayoia1 Sokteys 1idgeb1ei1 B1syoiagu. FIRST Εάίΐίοη. 2000.p. 1768-1773. Specific examples of suitable fatty acid esters for use in the compositions of this invention include isopropyl myristate. isopropyl palmitate. caprylic / capric triglycerides. cetillactate. cetyl palmitate. hydrogenated castor oil. glycerol esters. hydroxycetylisostearate. hydroxycetyl phosphate. isopropylisostearate. isostearyl isostearate. diisopropyl sebacinate. RRS-5-cetet-20. 2-ethylhexylisononoate. 2-ethylhexyl stearate. fatty alcohol lactate C ₁₂ -C ₁₆ . isopropyl lanolate. 2-ethylhexyl salicylate and mixtures thereof. Currently preferred fatty acid esters are isopropyl myristate. isopropyl palmitate. RRS-5-cetet-20 and caprylic / capric triglycerides. Emollients based on fatty acid esters. if they are used. preferably included in the compositions of this invention in a concentration of from about 1 to about 8 wt.%. more preferably from about 2 to about 5 wt.%.

The compositions of this invention may also contain silicone compounds. Preferably, the viscosity of the silicone component at a temperature of 25 ° C. is from about 0.5 to about 12,500 cP. Examples of suitable substances are dimethylpolysiloxane. diethyl polysiloxane. dimethylpolysiloxane-diphenylpolysiloxane. cyclomethicone. trimethylpolysiloxane. diphenylpolysiloxane and mixtures thereof. A preferred example is dimethicone. those. dimethylpolysiloxane with trimethyl terminal units. Dimethicone is particularly preferred. having a viscosity of from 50 to 1000 cP. Silicone oils. if they are used. preferably included in the composition of this invention in a concentration of from 0.1 to 5 wt.%. more preferably 1 to 2 wt.%.

The cosmetically acceptable compositions of this invention may contain volatile and non-volatile silicone oils or liquids. Silicone compounds can be either linear. or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes with a viscosity of from about 0.5 to about 100 cSt. The most preferred linear polydimethylsiloxane compounds have a viscosity in the range of from about 0.5 to about 50 cSt. One example of a volatile linear low molecular weight polydimethylsiloxane is octamethyltrisiloxane. available under the brand name Bote Sogshid® 200 Πιιίά. having a viscosity of about 1 cSt. Silicone oils. if they are used. preferably included in the compositions of this invention in a concentration of from 0.1 to 30 wt.%. more preferably 1 to 20 wt.%.

The cosmetically acceptable compositions of this invention may contain low molecular weight volatile cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones). Preferred volatile cyclic siloxanes may be polydimethylcyclosiloxanes. having an average repeat unit of from 4 to 6 and a viscosity of from about 2.0 to about 7.0 cSt. and mixtures thereof. Preferred cyclomethicones are sold by Bothe Sogshid®. M1b1aib. ΜΙ. I8A. under the trademarks Bote Sogshid® 244. Bothe Sogshid® 245 Bote Sogshid® 246. Bote Sogshid® 344 broads and Bothe Sogshid® 345 broads; and 8Shsoie 8E-1173 and 8Shsoie 8E-1202 from Oeyega1 E1es1ps. \ Yaeggogb. ΝΥ. ϋδΆ. Silicone oils. if they are used. preferably included with the composition of the composition according to this invention in a concentration of from 0.1 to 30 wt.%. more preferably 1 to 20 wt.%.

Silicone surfactants or emollients with polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene side chains can also be used in the compositions of the present invention. Preferred examples include dimethicone copolyols. Bothe Sogshid® 3225С and 5225С Еолти1а1юи Άίάδ. sold by Bote Sogshid®. MShaib. ΜΙ. ϋδΆ. and 8Shsoie 8E-1528. sold Oeyega1 E1es1ps. \ Yaeggogb. ΝΥ. ϋδΆ. Side chains may also include alkyl groups. such as lauryl or cetyl. Preferred are laurylmethicone copolyol. Known as the Bothe Sogshid® 5200 Egts1ayoi Άίάδ. and cetyl dimethicone copolyol. known as AU1 EM-90. Selling Co1b5s1shib1 S11e1shsa1 Sogrogayoi. Norea 11. UA. Lauryl dimethicone is also preferred. known as Veky bbm 3107 ur. sold Huaskeg-Skepie. Miiskey. SEC .. Silicone surfactants. if they are used. are included in the composition according to this invention in a concentration of from 0.1 to 30 wt.%. more preferably from 1 to 15 wt.%.

Amino functionalized silicones and emollients may be used in the present invention. Preferred examples include Bothe Sogshid® 8220. Bothe Soggish® 939. Bote Sogshid® 949. Bote Sogshid® 2-8194. sold by Bote Sogshid®. M1b1aib. M1. I8A. So

- 7 013329, however, 81bpsope 8M 253 sold by Oepeta1 E1ss1g1s is preferred. \ Wa1sgGogb. ΝΥ, and 8L. The amino functionalized silicones, if used, are preferably included in the compositions of this invention in a concentration of from 0.1 to 5 wt.%, More preferably from 0.1 to 2.0 wt.%.

The cosmetically acceptable compositions of this invention may contain volatile hydrocarbon oils. Volatile hydrocarbon contains from about C ₆ to C ₂₂ atoms. A preferred volatile hydrocarbon is an aliphatic hydrocarbon with a chain length of from about C ₆ to C ₁₆ carbon atoms. An example of such a compound is isohexadecane under the brand name Regte1u1 101A, sold to Rgekregke, 8 ° S1 P1ashie1b, N1, I8A. Another example of a preferred volatile hydrocarbon is C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ isoparaffin under the trademark 1corag M, sold by Exhop, WauGo ^ n, TX, I8A. Volatile hydrocarbons, if used, are preferably included in the compositions of this invention in a concentration of from 0.1 to 30 wt.%, More preferably from 1 to 20 wt.%.

The cosmetically acceptable compositions of this invention may contain cationic and ampholytic conditioning polymers. Examples of such polymers include conditioning polymers, which are listed in 1p1tpabopa1 Socteis 1pdteb1ep1 Oyubopatu rikebyu Soktebs, ToE 1e1gu apb Etadtapsa Akkoshabop (STEA), 110117 ' ¹ ' 81eeee Ν. ^. 20036, but not limited to them. Common examples include quaternary derivatives of cellulose ethers, quaternary guar derivatives, HAMAC homopolymers and copolymers, MARTAC homopolymers and copolymers and quaternary starch derivatives. Specific examples using the STEA designations include polyquaternium-10, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, starch hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, polyquaternic-4, polyquaternic-5, polyquaternic-6, polyquaternic-7, polyquaternic-14, polynuclear, 24-polymeric 28, polyquaternium-32, polyquaternium-33, polyquaternium-36, polyquaternium-37, polyquaternium-39, polyquaternium-45, polyquaternium-47 and polymethacrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride, polyquaternium-55, and mixtures thereof, but are not limited to. The conditioning polymers, if used, are preferably included in the cosmetically acceptable compositions of this invention in a concentration of from 0.1 to 10 wt.%, Preferably from 0.2 to 6 wt.% And most preferably from 0.2 to 5 wt.% .

The cosmetically acceptable compositions of this invention may contain one or more rheological modifiers. The rheological modifiers that can be used in this invention include high molecular weight crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid and acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, for example, the series ClOporo1® and Retiep®, sold by No.Ueop, 1pc, C1eUe1apb, I8A; anionic acrylate polymers, such as 8a1cage® A8T, and cationic acrylate polymers, such as 8a1cage® 8C96, sold by C1Ba 8res1a1bek, Nfy Roche1, I8A; acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride / acrylamide; hydroxyethyl methacrylate polymers, stearet-10 copolymer allyl ether / acrylate; an acrylate / behenet-25-methacrylate copolymer known as Ac1up® 28, sold by Coit and Naac / 1n1etabopa1 8res1a1bek, ape, N1, I8A; glyceryl polymethacrylate; acrylate / stearet-20-methacrylate copolymer; bentonite; gums such as alginates, carrageenans, gum arabic, gum arabic, ghatti gum, karaya gum, tragacanth gum, guar gum; guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, xanthan gum or gellan gum; cellulose derivatives such as sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl carboxyethyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl carboxypropyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, sulfated cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, methyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, microcrystalline cellulose; agar; pectin; gelatin; starch and its derivatives; chitosan and its derivatives, such as hydroxyethylchitosan; polyvinyl alcohol, RUM / MA copolymer, RUM / MA cross-linked polymer, decadiene, poly (ethylene oxide) thickeners, sodium carbomer and mixtures thereof, but are not limited to. The rheological modifiers, if used, are preferably included in the cosmetically acceptable composition of this invention in a concentration of from 0.01 to 12 wt.%, Preferably from 0.05 to 10 wt.% And most preferably from 0.1 to 6 wt.% .

The cosmetically acceptable composition of this invention may contain one or more antioxidants which include, but are not limited to, ascorbic acid, BHT, BHA, erythorbic acid, bisulfite, thioglycolate, tocopherol, sodium metabisulfite, vitamin E-acetate and ascorbyl palmitate. Antioxidants will be present in a concentration of from 0.01 to 5 wt.%, Preferably from 0.1 to 3 wt.% And most preferably from 0.2 to 2 wt.% By weight of the cosmetically acceptable composition.

The cosmetically acceptable composition of this invention may contain one or more sunscreens. Examples of sunscreens include octyl methoxy cinnamate (ethylhexyl-p-methoxy cinnamate), octyl salicylateoxybenzone (benzophenone-3), benzophenone-4, menthylanthranilate, dioxibenzene, aminobenzoic acid, amyldimethyl-PAVA, diethanolamine-p-methoxybenzene-methoxybenzene-methoxybenzene-methoxybenzene-methoxybenzene-methoxybenzene-methoxybenzene-methoxybenzene-methoxybenzene-methoxybenzene-methoxybenzoicobenzene-methoxybenzo-methoxy-bis-methoxy-bis-methoxy-bis-methoxy-bis-methoxy-bis-methoxy-bis-methoxy-bis-methoxy-bis-methoxy-bis-methoxy-bis-methoxy-benzene 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate, homomethyl salicylate, glycerylaminobenzoate, dihydroxyacetone, octyldimethyl RABA, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfo

- 8 013329 new acid, triethanolamine salicylate, zinc oxide and titanium oxide and mixtures thereof, but are not limited to. The amount of sunscreen agents used in the cosmetically acceptable composition of this invention will vary depending on the specific wavelength (s) of the UV absorbance (s) of the particular sunscreen agent (s) that is use, and can be from 0.1 to 10 wt.%, from 2 to 8 wt.%.

The cosmetically acceptable composition of this invention may contain one or more preservatives. Examples of preservatives include 1,2-dibromo-2,4-dicyanobutane (methyldibromoglutaronitrile known as MEXiAKE®, Opbeo No. 11so Sotrapu, YareguShe, 1b, I8L), benzyl alcohol, imidazolidinyl urea, 1,3-bis- (hydroxymethyl) -5 , 5-dimethyl-2,3-imidazolidinedione (for example, гид-hydantoin, known as СУОАНТ®. Лопха. Ray1atep, N1, I8A), methylchloroisothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone (for example, Ka1yop®, Coit & Naaz Co., Paiba11, I8A), methylparaben, propylparaben, phenoxyethanol and sodium benzoate, and mixtures thereof, but are not limited to.

The cosmetically acceptable composition of this invention may contain one or more ingredients commonly used in cosmetics. Examples of such ingredients include, but are not limited to, but not limited to buffering agents, perfumes, chelating agents, coloring agents or colorants that serve to stain the composition or keratin, binding agents, emollients, pennosergic agents, foam stabilizers, solar filters and peptizing agents.

The surface of pigments, such as titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, talc, calcium carbonate or kaolin, can be treated with the anionic polymer described herein and then used in the cosmetically acceptable composition of this invention. Processed pigments are also more effective as sunscreens and for use in decorative cosmetics such as makeup and mascara.

The cosmetically acceptable composition of this invention may contain water, as well as any cosmetically acceptable solvent. Examples of suitable solvents include monohydroxy alcohols, such as alkanols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms (e.g. ethanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol), polyhydric alcohols, such as alkylene glycols (e.g. glycerin, ethylene glycol and propylene glycol) and glycol ethers such as mono-, di- and triethylene glycol monoalkyl ethers, for example, but not limited to, but not limited to, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether and diethylene glycol monomethyl ether. These solvents may be present in an amount up to 70 wt.%, For example from 0.1 to 70 wt.% Relative to the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetically acceptable composition of this invention may also contain electrolytes, such as aluminum hydrochloride, alkali metal salts, for example sodium, potassium or lithium salts, preferably these salts are halides, such as chloride or bromide, and sulfate, or salts with organic acids, such as acetates or lactates, as well as alkaline earth metal salts, preferably carbonates, silicates, nitrates, acetates, gluconates, pantothenates and lactates of calcium, magnesium and strontium.

Compositions for treating the skin include aftershave, sunscreen, lotion, hand and body creams, liquid soaps, bar soaps, solid bath oils, shaving creams, dishwashing liquids, shower gels, bath foams, etc. P.

The skin care compositions of this invention can be prepared either in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, water-in-oil type, triple emulsions, or as dispersions.

Preferred oil-in-water emulsions are first prepared by forming an aqueous mixture of water-soluble components, for example, unsaturated quaternary ammonium compounds, a humectant, water-soluble preservatives, and then adding water-insoluble components. Water-insoluble components include an emulsifier, water-insoluble preservatives, a petrolatum or mineral oil component, a fatty alcohol component, a fatty acid ester emollient, and a silicone oil component. The energy consumption for mixing will be high and should be maintained for a period of time suitable for the formation of a water-in-oil emulsion having a uniform appearance (indicating the presence of relatively small micelles in the emulsion). Preferred dispersions are mainly obtained by forming an aqueous mixture of water-soluble components, followed by the addition of a thickener with the addition of energy to suspend water-insoluble substances.

The cosmetically acceptable composition of this invention may also be packaged as an aerosol, in which case it can be applied either in the form of an aerosol spray or in the form of an aerosol foam. As the propellant gas for these aerosols, in particular, dimethyl ether, carbon dioxide, nitrogen, nitrous oxide, air and volatile hydrocarbons such as butane, isobutane and propane can be used.

Compositions for treating hair include bath preparations such as bath foams, soaps and oils, shampoos, conditioners, hair bleaching agents, hair dye preparations,

- 9 013329 temporary and permanent hair dyes, tinting conditioners, hair brighteners, dyeing and non-dyeing hair rinses, hair color tones, hair curlers, permanent hair curlers, hair curlers, hair straighteners for hair care, hair tonics, hair care products and oxidizing products. Hydrophobically modified polymers can also be used in indelible hair styling products, such as gels, mousses, sprayers, hair styling creams, hair styling waxes, lipsticks, balms, etc., either individually or in combination with others polymers or structuring agents to ensure manageability and complaisance of the hair with a feeling of purity, naturalness, not sticky.

The hair care compositions of this invention give a slippery feel and can easily be washed off the hair due to the presence of hydrophobically modified polymers, volatile silicones, other polymers, surfactants or other compounds that can alter the deposition of substances on the hair.

In the case of cleaning compositions, such as shampoo for washing hair, or liquid soap for hands, or shower gel for washing skin, these compositions contain anionic, cationogenic, nonionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants, usually in an amount of about 3 to about 50 wt.%, Preferably from about 3 to about 20 wt.%, And their pH is generally in the range from about 3 to about 10.

Preferred shampoos of this invention comprise combinations of anionic surfactants together with zwitterionic surfactants and / or amphoteric surfactants. Particularly preferred shampoos contain from about 0 to about 16 wt.% Alkyl sulfates, from 0 to about 50 wt.% Ethoxylated alkyl sulfates and from 0 to about 50 wt.% Of possible surfactants selected from nonionic, amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants -active substances with at least 5 wt.% either alkyl sulfate, ethoxylated alkyl sulfate, or a mixture thereof, and a total content of surfactants from about 10 to about 25 wt.%.

Shampoo for washing hair may also contain other conditioning additives, such as silicones and conditioning polymers commonly used in shampoos. US Pat. No. 5,573,709 teaches a list of non-volatile silicone conditioning agents that can be used in shampoos. The conditioning polymers for use in the present invention are listed in the Soztebs Dictionary, ToPe1pe5 aib Rgadgaps Azzoaabois (CTPA). Specific examples include polyquaternia (e.g. polyquaternium-1-polyquaternium-53), guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, starch hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and polymethacrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride.

Other preferred embodiments are in the form of a rinse lotion for application, mainly, before or after shampooing. These lotions are usually aqueous or hydroalcoholic solutions, emulsions, gelled lotions or gels. If the compositions are presented in the form of an emulsion, then they can be nonionic, anionic or cationogenic. Nonionic emulsions consist mainly of a mixture of oil and / or fatty alcohol with a polyoxyethylene alcohol, such as polyoxyethylene stearyl or cetyl / stearyl alcohol, and cationic surfactants may be added to these compositions. Anionic emulsions are formed mainly from soap.

If the compositions are in the form of a thickened lotion or gel, they contain thickeners in the presence or absence of a solvent. The thickeners that can be used are mainly resins, acrylic acid thickeners sold by B.P. SoobpsN; xanthan gums; sodium alginates; gum arabic; cellulose derivatives and poly (ethylene oxide) -based thickeners, and possibly also thickening with a mixture of polyethylene glycol stearate or distearate or a mixture of phosphoric acid ester and amide. The concentration of thickener is usually from 0.05 to 15 wt.%. If the compositions are in the form of a styling lotion, shaping lotion or decorative lotion, they usually contain ampholytic polymers as defined above in an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution.

In the case of hair fixers, the composition may also contain one or more additional polymers for fixing the hair. Additional polymers for fixing hair, if present, are present in a total amount of from about 0.25 to about 10 wt.%. An additional resin for hair fixation can be selected from the following group, since it is compatible with this hydrophobically modified polymer: acrylamide copolymer, acrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymer, acrylate / ammonium methacrylate copolymer, acrylate copolymer, acrylic acid / acrylate copolymer, adipic acid diethylamine dimethyldimethyldimethyldimethyldimethyldimethyldimethyldimethyldimethyldimethyldimethyldimethyldimethyldimethyldimethyldimethyldimethyldimethyldimethyldimethyldimethyldimethyldimethyl copolymer copolymer , adipic acid / epoxypropyl diethylenetriamine copolymer, allyl stearate / UA copolymer, aminoethyl acrylate phosphate / acrylate copolymer, ammonium acrylate copolymer Leamer copolymer ammonium acetate / acrylate copolymer, AMP acrylate / diacetoneacrylamide copolymer, ΑΜΡΌ acrylate / diatsetoakrilamid copolymer, butyl ester of ethylene / maleic anhydride copolymer, butilo

- 10 013329 ester RUM / ML, calcium / sodium copolymer RUM / MA, corn starch / acrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymer, diethylene glycolamine / epichlorohydrin / piperazine copolymer, dodecane acid copolymer / cetearyl alcohol / ethylene copolymer, copolymer RU / cetearyl ether / glycol copolymer, copolymer RUM / MA ester, karaya gum, methacryloyl ethyl betaine / methacrylate copolymer, octyl acrylamide / acrylate / butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, octyl acrylamide / acrylate copolymer, phthalic anhydride / glycerol / glycidyl decalecolate copolymer, polymer, polacrylamide, polyacrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid, polybutylene terephthalate, polyethyl acrylate, polyethylene, polyquatern-1, polyquatern-2, polyquatern-4, polyquatern-5, polyquatern-6, polyquatern-7, polyquatern-9, 8 -11, polyquaternium-12, polyquaternium-13, polyquaternium-14, polyquaternium-15, polyquaternium-39, polyquaternium-47, polyvinyl acetate, polyvinyl butyral, polyvinylimidazolinium acetate, polyvinyl methyl ether, copolymer RUM / Rimer-RURimer RURimer RUR / RimerURUR copolymer, lat, copolymer of RUR / eicosine, copolymer of RUR / ethyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid, copolymer of RUR / hexadecene, copolymer of RUR / UA, copolymer of RUR / vinyl acetate / itaconic acid, shellac, copolymer of sodium acrylates, copolymer of sodium acrylate / acrylazylate, alcohol, sodium carrageenan, starch diethylaminoethyl ether, stearyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymer, sucrose benzoate copolymer / sucrose acetate isobutyrate / butylbenzyl phthalate, sucrose benzoate copolymer / sucrose acetate isobutyrate / butylbenzylphthalate / methyl methacrylate, sucrose benzoate copolymer / sucrose acetate isobutyrate, vinyl acetate / crotonate copolymer, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymer, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid / methacryloxybenzophenone-1 copolymer, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid / vinyl neodecanoate copolymer and mixtures thereof. Synthetic polymers used to create hair styling aids are described in Thieu Nuyogu ίί Po1utegg ίη Naiusage, Co5ts (1C5 aib Tobs1ps5. 103 (1998), which is incorporated herein by reference. Other synthetic polymers that may be used according to the present invention, can be found in STRP Pyuboiagu, ίίίίΐι Ebuiui, 2000, which is incorporated herein by reference.

If the compositions of the present invention are intended for use in dyeing keratin fibers, in particular human hair, then in addition to the hydrophobically modified polymer, they usually contain at least one oxidative dye precursor and / or one direct dye. They may also contain any other adjuvant commonly used in compositions of this type.

The pH of the coloring compositions is usually from 7 to 11 and can be adjusted to the desired value by the addition of an alkalizing agent.

The compositions of this invention can also be used to curl or straighten hair. In this case, the composition usually contains, in addition to the hydrophobically modified polymer, one or more reducing agents and, if appropriate, other adjuvants commonly used in compositions of this type. Such compositions are intended to be used in conjunction with a neutralizing composition.

In one embodiment, the invention is a method of treating a substrate selected from hair, skin and nails, comprising applying to the substrate a cosmetically acceptable composition comprising one or more hydrophobically modified polyacrylamides, wherein the polyacrylamide consists of acrylamide and one or more cationic monomers.

In another embodiment, the substrate is hair.

In yet another embodiment, the present invention is a household laundry detergent and detergent containing one or more hydrophobically modified polyacrylamides, wherein the polyacrylamide consists of acrylamide, one or more cationic monomers, and possibly one or more anionic monomers.

The foregoing can be better understood by referring to the examples below, which are presented for purposes of illustration and are not intended to limit the scope of this invention.

Example 1. Modification of acrylamide / diallyldimethylammonium chloride copolymer with hexadecylamine.

An aqueous solution of acrylamide / diallyldimethylammonium chloride copolymer (69.5: 30.5 mol%, 20% active polymers, 225 g), a mixture of an aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide (50%, 2.3 g) and an aqueous solution of sodium metabisulfate are added to the Parra reactor. (15%, 19.2 g) and deionized water (200 g). Finely ground hexadecylamine is then added and the mixture is thoroughly mixed. Then the reactor is hermetically closed, stirring is maximized and nitrogen is pumped into the reactor and gas is removed (repeated five times). Then the reactor is hermetically sealed, heated to 140 ° C and maintained at a temperature of 140 ° C for five hours. Then the heating is stopped and the reactor is allowed to cool to ambient temperature to obtain an aqueous solution of a hydrophobically modified polymer. The properties of typical representatives of hydrophobically modified polymers are presented in table. 1. In the table. 1 Ac At means acrylamide, PALMAS means diallyldimethylammonium chloride and MARTAS means methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride.

- 11 013329

Table 1

Polymer The content of the modified polymer monomer (mol%) Modifier (mol%) κδν of the modified polymer (dl / g) Fin, modified polymer solution Modified polymer ROM (dl / g) Asat EAOMAS MARTAS one 69.5 30.5 - G exadecylamine (3) 1,2 12 1,1 II 69.5 30.5 - Dodecylamine (0.5) -1.2 8 1.8 III 69.5 30.5 - Octylamine (3) 1,2 .8 IV 69.5 30.5 - Dodecylamine (one) 3.2 5 3.2 V fifty - fifty Dodecylamine (0.6) 3,7 nineteen 3,7 VI 80 - twenty Dodecylamine (0.75) 5.3 8 4.9 VII 80 - twenty G exadecyl amine (1.0) 5.3 8 4.9 VIII 80 - twenty Octylamine (10) 5.3 8 3,5 IX 69.5 30.5 - Amino-functionalized silicone ¹ (0.3) 1.4 8 1,6 X 69.5 30.5 - Amino-functionalized silicone ² (0.3) 1.4 8 1,6

Amino-functionalized silicone of the formula H2X (CH2) 3 [81 (CH3) 2O] p81 (CH3) 2 (CH2) 3KH2, where p is about 50, is LMepei, Mi ^ aikee, III. ²¹ υΐΐΓαδΐί ™ A-23, Nονеοη, С ^ е1апй, ОН.

Example 2. Preparation of a solution of a hydrophobically modified polymer.

The aqueous polymer solution of Example 1 (445 g) was transferred to a flask and heated to 85 ° C. with stirring. A mixture of methyl paraben (0.6 g), propyl paraben (0.12 g) and deionized water (30 g) is heated until the parabens dissolve and then added to the hot polymer solution. The mixture was stirred at 85 ° C for one hour and then cooled to ambient temperature to obtain a hydrophobically modified polymer solution.

In the examples below, “C8 polymer” means a copolymer of 69.5 mol% acrylamide / 30.5 mol% diallyldimethylammonium chloride modified with octylamine. “C 12 polymer” means a copolymer of 69.5 mol% acrylamide / 0.5 mol% of diallyldimethylammonium chloride modified with dodecylamine. “C16 polymer” means a copolymer of 69.5 mol% acrylamide / z0.5 mol% diallyldimethylammonium chloride modified with hexadecylamine.

Example h. Obtaining a representative shampoo.

The components presented in table. 2, in the indicated order, are added with complete mixing after each addition. The batch is heated from 55-65 ° C until the cocamide M1PA is melted and the batch pH is adjusted to a value from 5.5 to 6.5 using lactic acid. Preservatives are added at a temperature of less than about 40 ° C. The polymer was diluted with water until a total charge of approximately 200 g was obtained, and this mixture was stirred for approximately 15 minutes. Before measuring the viscosity, the shampoo is degassed to remove any air impurities.

- 12 013329

table 2

The composition of the base shampoo

Composition Modified C8 polymer Modified C12 polymer Ingredient mass% mass% Deionized water 50,166 48.166 Ammonium lauryl sulfate, '20.00 20.00 28% Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, 29% 20.00 20.00 Cocamidopropyl Betaine, 30% 3.00 3.00 Cocamide ΜΙΡΑ (h) 3.00 3.00 C8 polymer, 8% 3,125 0.00 C 12 polymer, 5% 0.00 5.00 Lactic acid 0.059 0.059 Sodium chloride 0,300 0,300 Disodium EDTA 0.10 0.10 Kayyup SS  0.05 0.05 OMOM hydantoin 0.10 0.10 Perfume 0.10 0.10

Example 4. Evaluation of a base shampoo containing different levels of a hydrophobically modified polymer.

Representative shampoo compositions prepared by the method of Example 3 are tested for foam stability and viscosity. Viscosity indices are obtained using a Viscometer 1) U1 + U18eoshe1eg viscometer (MMLeogo, MA). The results are shown in table. 3. It is seen that a representative polymer exhibits a viscous synergistic effect with a shampoo system. Viscosity plays a relatively important role in a hair care product, since high viscosity may be perceived by the customer as an excess. Shampoos with and without polymer are also tested for foaming property. The polymer, especially the conditioning polymer, usually has an adverse effect on the foaming property of the shampoo. Adding a representative polymer to the shampoo increases the foaming time by almost 3 times.

Table 3

Assessment of basic shampoo containing different levels of hydrophobically modified polymer

Sample Level polymer Viscosity 5/20 (centipoise) 0.25% Foam 0.5% 1,0% 0.25% 0.5% 1,0% Control 11220 12880. 9850 Cream Cream Cream shampoo figurative figurative figurative 1 mol C12- More More More polymer 14100 15340 17620 cream cream cream figurative figurative figurative 0.40 mol More More More C12- 15240 17360 23800 cream cream cream polymer figurative figurative figurative

- 13 013329

Example 5. Obtaining a composition of natural shampoo.

The composition of natural shampoo can be prepared using the ingredients shown in table. 4.

Table 4

Natural Shampoo Composition

Composition Ingredient Name according to ΙΝΟΙ (International Nomenclature mass% cosmetic ingredients) Deionized water Water How much is required Segorop ZVEA-ZO Disodium Laureth-3sulfosuccinate 3.00 3 (aps1aro1 A Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, 30% 30.00 P1ap1asage 818iR Coco Glucoside 3.00 C1isata1e ϋΟΕ-120 PE6-120 methylglucose dioleate 2.10 Ueke1ekh AV-45 Coco betaine 8.00 Methylparaben Methylparaben 0.20 Propylparaben Propylparaben 0.10 T / eup 20 Polysorbate 20 0.00 Polymer Polymer 0.25 Citric Acid, 50% Citric Acid, 50% How much is required

Example 6. Evaluation of a natural shampoo containing a representative hydrophobically modified polymer.

The composition of natural shampoo obtained as described in example 5 is analyzed for viscosity, foam rinsing time and glide. The shampoo is slightly sticky due to glucose / ethoxyate. The results are presented in table. 5. The composition is improved by the addition of a hydrophobically modified polymer, which reduces the stickiness as compared to the control base. In general, a hydrophobically modified polymer added to the shampoo makes the foam slightly more creamy to the touch than a control without a polymer.

Table 5

Assessment of natural shampoo containing a hydrophobically modified polymer

Sample Viscosity 5/20 (centipoise) Visual observation Foam Flushing time (sec) Glide Control Natural Shampoo 9360 Transparent Creamy 1-2 (sticky) 4 0.5 mol C16- polymer 11080 Transparent Creamy 2 4

Example 7. Evaluation of a commercial shampoo containing a representative hydrophobically modified polymer.

Representative polymers of this invention modified with C ₈ and C ₁₂ alkyl groups (0.25 wt.%) Are added to 8iaue® shampoo to confirm that the samples remain transparent. Shampoo 8aue Pa1iga1 81gambegu is also examined to prove that hydrophobically modified polymers can be added later to existing compositions. Typically, the conditioning polymer added to these systems causes turbidity. The C8 and C12 polymers added to these systems retain better transparency and give this composition additional glide and creamy consistency. Three months later, the basis of 8iaue® MoipLnp MgamBegu shampoo with the C8 and C12 polymer remains colorless. Polyquaternium-7, an example of a typical conditioning polymer, added later to this composition, remains cloudy. The introduction of a hydrophobically modified polymer serves to increase the potential compatibility of the surface

- 14 013329 active substances with the system of surfactants AB8 / LEE8 shampoo basis 8iaue.

Example 8. Evaluation of the foaming properties of a shampoo containing a representative hydrophobically modified polymer.

A representative composition of shampoo obtained using a polymer modified with a C12 alkyl group having the ingredients shown in table. 6, receive and evaluate in the Nag test! ye Oeogde Roash Tez !. The test results show that the hydrophobically modified polymer creates more stable shampoo foams and therefore requires a longer rinse time (23 s for the shampoo composition obtained using a polymer modified with a C12 hydrophobic group compared to the shampoo composition obtained using an unmodified polymer )

Table 6

Shampoo composition used in the Nag test! ye Ooogde Roash Tez!

Ingredient mass% Deionized water 48,266 Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, 29% 10.00 Sodium lauryl ether sulfate, 28% 30.00 Cocamidopropyl Betaine, 30% 3.00 Cocamide ΜΙΡΑ (h) 1.00 C12 polymer 5.00 Citric Acid, 100% (h) Sodium chloride Disodium EDTA 0.10 Methylchloroisothiazolinone 0.05 Methylisothiazolinone ΟΜϋΜ-hydantoin 0.10

Example 9. Instrumental evaluation of a hydrophobically modified polymer in relation to wet combing.

Wet combing is a typical testing method used to demonstrate the conditioning properties of substances imparted to hair care compositions. A strand of hair is treated with a 0.5% active solution and then rinsed. Then, the treated strand of hair is tested in a tester O1a8! Gop Tepzie Tez! Eg (MTT 160, Natrzyge, IR) for combing. The lower amount of combing force required in this test means that the hair strand is well-conditioned. The table below 7 and 8 show that strands of hair treated with representative polymers have excellent combing properties.

Table 7

Statistical indicators of the analysis of combing ___

Level Number Value Standard error Below 95% Above 95% C8 polymer 4 215,000 79,174 21.27 408.73 The control 4 551,250 79,174 357.52 744.98

Table 8 Statistical indicators of the analysis of combing

Level Number Value Standard error Below 95% Above 95% Copolymer 6 64,117 33,822 -11.2 139.48 The control 6 512,333 33,822 437.0 587.69

Example 10. Evaluation of a conditioning composition in relation to sensory wet combing and lubricating properties.

A conditioning composition containing the ingredients indicated in the table. 9 are obtained as follows.

Hydroxyethyl cellulose (HEC) is sprayed into water and mixed at moderate speed for 30 minutes. The solution is heated to 40 ° C to ensure transparency and homogeneity of the solution. Then, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine is added, the pH is adjusted to 4.0 with citric acid and dicetyldimonium chloride is added. The thickened mixture is heated to 70 ° C. and a mixture of cetyl, stearyl and Rgot is added.

- 15 013329 and 1dep O (or behenyl). The mixture is heated to 80-85 ° C and incubated for thirty minutes. Then start cooling and slowly add cold deionized water. The mixture was allowed to mix and cool, and the silicone mixture was added at a temperature of less than 55 ° C. Slowly add a solution of EDTA 0.05 / 30 at a temperature below 40 ° C and at the end add preservatives at a temperature below 35 ° C.

Table 9

Conditioning composition

Composition RES-2 / ЦСО PE6-2 / 0C0 1% C16 1% C8 Ingredients Deionized water 45.00 45.00 Hydroxyethyl Cellulose (HEC) 0.20 0.20 Citric Acid, 50% 0.12 0.12 Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine 0.50 0.50 Dicethyldimonium Chloride, 67% 2.00 1,50 RES-2 oleammonium chloride, 69% 0.50 0.50 Begentrimonium metosulfate (50%) and cetyl alcohol and 1,3-butanediol 0.00 0.00 Cetyl alcohol (C95) 3.00 3.00 Stearyl alcohol (895) 2.00 2.00 Stearic alcohol (70%) and Ceteareth- 20 (30%) 1.00 1.00 Silicone 0.50 0.00 Deionized water cooling to 50-55 ° C 21.03 21.93 Disodium EDTA 0.05 0.05 Deionized water 2.90 3.00 EIA (s) dipropylene glycol 0.10 0.10 OMOM hydantoin 0.10 0.10 Deionized water * (dilute polymer with deionized water) 20.00 20.00 Deionized water 0.00 0.00 C16 polymer 1.00 0.00 C8 polymer 0.00 1.00

Example 11. Evaluation of the sensory properties of wet combing and lubricity in the composition of the conditioner.

To evaluate the compositions of the air conditioners obtained as in example 10, conduct group tests for wet disentangling, wet combing and lubrication as follows.

1. Tests are conducted by trained appraisers, able to reliably distinguish between damaged and treated hair strands.

2. Tests are carried out as a whole in three repetitions per group.

3. For each test, an untreated dark clarified strand and a conditioner treated strand serve as reference objects.

4. Each strand is treated with 1 ml of the product and triturated in a strand for 60 s, after which it is washed off with tap water at 38 ° C for 30 s.

5. The strands unravel and set the group. Each strand is immersed three times in 500 ml of deionized water to restore confusion. Then, with a gloved hand, excess water is removed.

6. Members of the group twice use the wide end of the black plastic comb 8a11u to unravel.

7. Then the members of the group twice apply a small frequent comb for wet combing of the strands.

8. Lubricity is evaluated by combing the strands down and up four times in a cycle to evaluate interfiber friction.

9. After each test, the strands are immersed three times in deionized water to reproduce confusion and the excess is removed with a gloved hand.

Typically, strands are evaluated on a five-point system (from 1 = high friction to 5 = low friction). The results are shown in table. 10-12. Higher unraveling, wet combing and

- 16 013329 lubricity indicate the best quality.

Table 10

Wet untangling and combing with conditioner containing C16 hydrophobic, modified polymer

Composition Wet untangling Wet combing Lubricating the ability Untreated 1.94 1,56 1.49 C16 polymer 4.07 3.73 3.57

Table 11

Wet unraveling and combing with C8 hydrophobic in conditioner

Composition Wet untangling Wet combing Lubricity Untreated 2.13 1.71 1,50 C8 polymer 4.26 3.96 3.79

Table 12

Wet unraveling and combing with C12 hydrophobic conditioner

Composition Wet untangling Wet combing Lubricity Untreated 2.29 2.04 1,63 C12 polymer 3.67 3.37 3.27

As shown in the table. 10-12, the hydrophobically modified polymers of the present invention provide excellent wet properties, significantly better than untreated dark bleached hair.

Example 12. Evaluation of the smoothness and film-forming ability of a moisturizing smoothing gel.

Assessment of the smoothness and film-forming ability of the composition of the smoothing gel according to the table. 13 is carried out using group testing as follows.

Table 13

Moisturizing Smoothing Gel

Composition The control C8- polymer Copolymer Copolymer Ingredient Mass % Mass % Mass % Mass % Water How much is required How much is required How much is required How much is required Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.53 0.53 0.53 0.53 Polyquaternium-4 0.17 0.17 0.17 0.17 C8 polymer (8%) 0.00 4.00 0.00 0.00 C 12-polymer (5%) 0.00 0.00 4.00 0.00 Polyquaternium-7 Foam with extract 0.00 0.00 0.00 4.00 meadow herbs with oil from plant seeds 0,025 0,025 0,025 0,025 OMOM hydantoin 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 Perfume 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 Olet-20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20

Group testing for a feeling of smoothness and film formation.

1. Prepare one gram of a sample, six inches long, each of the pristine hair (1n1egpa11op1 Na1g 1shrog1eg8, BeEegose, Yem Uogk, U8L).

2. Apply one gram of polymer to the strands. The strands are stroked 25 times to provide coverage.

3. Comb each strand with the wide end of the comb for styling 8a11u for unraveling.

4. Leave the samples to air dry.

5. The randomized members of the group hold their fingers from top to bottom along the locks of hair and

- 17 013329 evaluate strands in relation to intensity (from 1 = non-smooth to 5 = very smooth) and film stiffness (from 1 = non-rigid to 5 = very hard).

A slippery sensation can contribute to the aesthetics of the product and allows the hair to glide over each other. This is an important goal of any conditioning product. The group evaluated the slippery and smoothness feeling of the compositions of the above composition using the protocol below. The results are presented in the form of a table. 14.

Table 14

Gel Rating Table

Composition Water Feeling of smoothness (n = 4) Film stiffness (l = 4) ......... 4.0 Polyquaternium-7 2.9 3.6 Control composition 2,8 4.3 C8 polymer 3.0 4.8 C16 polymer 3,1 4.8

As shown in the table. 14, the hydrophobically modified polymers of the present invention exhibit improved stiffness and slightly improved smoothness compared to the control formulation.

Examples 13-16.

Representative hair care compositions containing hydrophobically modified polymers are prepared as described in Examples 13-16.

Table 15

Moisturizing Shampoo

Ingredient Bulk% Di water 49.11 Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, 29% 20.00 Sodium lauryl ether sulfate, 28% 20.00 Cocamidopropyl Betaine, 30% 3.00 Laurilamide ϋΕΑ 3.00 Fatty acid / PO-2 0.50 C8 polymer 3.13 Citric Acid, 100% (h) 0.60 Sodium chloride 1.36 Disodium EDTA 0.10 ΟΜϋΜ-hydantoin 0.10 Yellow 0,038

Green 0.041

The viscosity is 13,480 cP with a rotating rod / speed ratio of 5/20 after 30 s. Shampoo gives a very creamy foam.

Example 14. A less voluminous indelible conditioner. Table 16

Less voluminous indelible conditioner Composition Ingredient Bulk% Bulk% Water Hydroxyethyl cellulose 1.00 1.00 Dicethyldimony. C! ^ ApsoY 432CC) 3.00 3.00 Amodimethicone (s) cetrimonium chloride (s) nonoxynol-10 (OS 949) 0.25 0.25 C8 polymer, 8% 12.50 0.00 Apple grass perfume 0.10 0.10 [EMOM hydantoin 0.40 0.20

When used in this composition, the effect of a C8 hydrophobically modified polymer

- 18 013329 on the hair consists in giving smoothness, shine and in straightening the hair. Hair is more effectively straightened and smoothed using 1% active polymer compared to a control composition without polymer.

Example 15. Air conditioning for ethnic groups.

Table 17

Ethnic conditioning ___

Composition Ingredient Bulk% Bulk% Deionized water. Oz 08 Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.30 0.30 Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine 0.50 0.50 Dicetyldimonia. With! (\ / azzo 3.00 3.00 432C6) Cetyl alcohol 5.00 5.00 Stearyl alcohol and cetareth- twenty 2.00 2.00 Citric Acid, 50% Ω8 Oz C8 polymer 3.00 0.00 C16 polymer 0.00 3.00 Cyclomethicone 1.00 1.00 Dimethicone 10C8 0.20 0.20 OMEM hydantoin 0.20 0.20

This ethnic conditioner provides superior hair shaft spreading and coverage.

Example 16. Hair Lotion.

Hair lotion designed to smooth hair.

Table 18

Hair lotion

Ingredient mass% mass% Deionized water How much is required How much is required Cocamidopropyl Betaine 2.00 2.00 Hydroxyethyl cellulose • 0.50 0.50 Polymer acrylic amide / OJSCMAC / acrylic acid 2.00 2.00 C8 polymer 5.00 0.00 C12 polymer 0.00 5.00 RE6-40 hydrogenated Castor oil 0.20 0.20 Perfume 0.10 0.10 ϋΜΟΜ-hydantoin 0.20 0.20

Example 17. Evaluation of a hydrophobically modified polymer when applied for hair styling.

Representative compositions containing hydrophobically modified polymers are tested for fixing curls, which is a tool for evaluating hair styling products.

Lightened and pre-labeled hair strands of six inches in length are available from 1n1gp1yup1 Naai 1shrog! E§ apy Rgobis1§ 1ps.

Lightened and handcrafted six inch long hair strands are available from EeMeo VgoFegs 1ps.

The strands are prepared for testing by cutting off 1/8 of the hair width from the previously labeled hair strand (0.4 g for each strand). The hair strand is moistened with water and then 0.3 g of sodium laureth sulfate is triturated from top to bottom along the hair strand for 1 min. Then the hair strand is washed under tap water at 40 ± 2 ° C for 1 min. The washed hair strands are kept in deionized water overnight.

Pure hair strands are immersed in a 0.5% by weight aqueous polymer solution for 2 minutes. The excess solution is squeezed out of the lock with fingers in the glove. Each strand is combed to unravel the wide end of the comb for styling 8a11u, then the hair is wound on curlers (11/16 diameter). Hair curlers are placed overnight in a room with a relative humidity of 50%. Next

- 19 013329 day, the hair is unwound from each curler and curled hair is placed in a chamber with a relative humidity of 90%. The curl length (sagging) is measured every 15 minutes for 2 hours and the curl fixation is calculated using the following equation:

(B-))% curl fixation = -------------- x 100 Equation 1: Calculation of (Ι_ - 1_o) curl fixation where b is the length of a fully elongated hair strand;

L0 is the length of the hair strand at the beginning of the experiment;

IL - the length of the hair strand at the time of measurement.

The table below illustrates the fixation of the perm for the C 16 polymer relative to the initial data for comparison (methacrylic acid / sodium copolymer acrylamidomethyl propanesulfonate).

Table 19

Curling hold

Time The control C16 polymer Initial data for comparison fifteen 51.10 78.24 85.32 thirty 38.05 68.00 75.30 45 33.41 64.87 71.51 60 32.25 63.29 69.06 75 30.86 62.50 68.18 90 30.38 61.97 67.51 105 30.15 61.45 67.51 120 29.45 60.67 66.17

The data in the table. 19 show that the samples of hydrophobically modified polymers are comparable with the initial data for fixing the curl.

Examples 18-21. Representative hair styling compositions.

Representative polymers in hair styling compositions are presented in Examples 18-21.

Compositions of hair styling creams obtained with or without a representative polymer according to this invention, and comparison polymers are presented in table. twenty.

Table 20

Hair styling creams containing representative polymers Composition Ingredient mass% mass% Deionized water How much is required How much is required Polyquaternium-37 / propylene glycol / dicaprylate dicaprate and PPC-1 tridecet-6 ¹ , 4.00 4.00 fifty% C16 polymer 1.00 0.00 Deionized water 10.00 10.00 Polyvinylpyrrolidone ² 0.00 0.25 Cyclopentasiloxane ³ 1.00 1.00

¹ 8a1eage® 8C96, C1b 8e1a1Gu Siuuac, H1§KrotG, N0, ϋ8Α. ² RUR-K30, 1pGegpabopa1 8re1aZhez RgobieGz, Aaupe, N1, ϋ8Α. ³ 1) о \\ - СГптд® 245 Лшф 1) о \\ - Согптд, М161апф ΜΙ, ϋ8Α.

Example 19. Mousse for styling hair.

Hair styling mousse compositions obtained using hydrophobically modified polymers enhance the creamy texture and smooth the hair. Representative compositions are presented in table. 21.

- 20 013329

Table 21

Hair styling mousse

Composition C12 polymer C8 polymer Ingredient mass% mass% Deionized water How much is required How much is required 8Ω alcohol 40 20.00 20.00 C12 polymer 4.00 0.00 C8 polymer 0.00 4.00 Cetrimony Chloride 1.00 1.00 Preservative Oz Ωδ Perfume Oz Ωδ

Example 20. A gel with mineral oil.

Gels with mineral oil obtained using hydrophobically modified polymers provide extra conditioning and controllability when using this gel. Representative compositions are given in table. 22.

Table 22

Gel with oil

Composition C12 polymer C8 polymer Ingredient mass% mass% Deionized water How much is required How much is required C12 polymer 2.00 0.00 C8 polymer 0.00 2.00 Mineral oil 10.00 10.00 About 10 years 21.00 21.00 RES-25 hydrogenated Castor oil 10.00 10.00 Glycerol 8.00 8.00 Preservative Ωδ Ωδ Perfume Ωδ Ωδ

Example 21. A mask for leaving on the hair and rinsing.

The composition is tested on the hair for the ability of deep conditioning hair. The compositions make it possible to dry on the hair and then rinse with a feeling of gentle hydration. The addition of a C12 or C8 polymer provides a silky rinse sensation and additional conditioning. Representative compositions are presented in table. 23.

Table 23

Mask for leaving on hair and washing off

Ingredient mass% mass% Water 91.04 90.50 Polyacrylamide (s) C13- 14 isoparaffin (s) laureth-7 4.00 4.00 Cyclomethicone . 1.00 1.00 PPC-10 methyl ether glucose 2.00 2.00 C 12-polymer (5%) 1.96 0.00 C8 polymer (8%)  0.00 2,50 Preservative How much is required How much is required

Example 22. Evaluation of the ability to spread various surfactants and polymers on parafilm for skin care.

This study is performed as a quick screening method for a rough estimate of wetting, as described below.

1. 50 μl of a 0.2%, 1.0% solution or dispersion are pipetted onto flat sheets of 10 cm x 10 cm parafilm wax.

2. After five minutes, measure the largest drop diameter. Samples are measured in triplicate. The experiment is carried out in ambient conditions (room temperature 23 ° C).

- 21 013329

3. The spreading coefficient is calculated as the ratio of the diameter of the test solution to the diameter of distilled water (0.6 cm or the experimental average of three drops).

The results are presented in table. 24.

Table 24

Relative spreading of various surfactants under ambient conditions on the surface of a parafilm

System Diameter (cm) Spreading coefficient Literature surface tension (dyne / cm) Deionized water 0.58 1.00 72.8 Cyclomethicone undiluted 3.37 5.81 20-35 C8 polymer, 0.2% 0.58 1.00 There is no data C12 polymer, 0.2% 0.58 1.00 There is no data C16 polymer, 0.2% 0.58 1.00 There is no data C8 polymer, 1.0% 0.60 1,03 There is no data C 12-polymer, 1.0% 0.63 1.05 There is no data C 16 polymer, 1.0% 0.70 1.17 There is no data Sodium lauryl sulfate, 0.1% 0.70 1.20 44.3

It was found that compositions containing hydrophobically modified polymers, even with a low level of hydrophobic substitution, are surface-active. The results show that surface activity increases with increasing length of the alkyl chain. The C 16 polymer is more surface active than C12, and the C 12 polymer is accordingly more active than the C8 polymer due to its foamy, viscous nature.

Examples 23-26. Representative skin care compositions containing hydrophobically modified polymers.

The polymers of this invention can also be used for skin care. Without being bound by theory, the polymers of this invention can form a protective film on the skin and nails. The composition of lotions for skin care are presented in examples 23-26.

In a softening face cream, the addition of a hydrophobically modified polymer creates a very good viscosity, which cannot be achieved using only salt. A representative composition is presented in table. 25.

Table 25

Softening face cream

Ingredient mass% mass% Deionized water 80.00 80.00 Magnesium aluminum silicate ¹ 1.90 1.90 Xanthan Gum ² 1.27 1.27 Glycerol 0.40 0.40 Dimethicone copolyol ³ 0.10 0.10 ΟΜϋΜ-hydantoin ⁴ 0.20 0.20 Deionized water 6.13 6.13 C8 polymer (5%) 0.00 5.00 Deionized water 10.00 5.00

¹ Weedit NU, K.T. Wapbegs! Sotrapu, Shgea1k, ST ϋ8Α.

² Ke11go1 CO-P, CP Ke1co, LeaShegkeaf 8iggeu ϋΚ.

³ 19ον 193 R1shb, Etheuyope Soro1uo1, Ote Sogptd, M1b1apb, M1 ϋ8Α. ⁴ O1ubap1,

1, op / a, Pa1g1aep, N1 ϋ 8Α.

The viscosity of the base emollient face cream [1.27% xanthan gum / 1.9% magnesium aluminum silicate (MA8)] is significantly increased with the addition of 0.25% C8 polymer. The initial viscosity of the base without polymer is 6600 cP (5/20 30 s at 23.5 ° C). The viscosity with the addition of 0.25% C8 polymer is 16,000 cP (6/20).

Hydrophobically modified polymers can be used as primary or secondary conditioning agents. They can be secondary to thicken, moisturize, enhance foaming, film formation, and possibly to stabilize emulsions and dispersions.

- 22 013329

Example 24. Bath foam.

In the compositions of bath foams, hydrophobically modified polymers give the skin a soft and silky feel. A typical composition is presented in table. 26.

Table 26

Bath foam

Ingredient mass% mass% Deionized water How much is required How much is required Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, 29% 35.00 35.00 Cocamidopropyl Hydroxy Sultaine 5.00 5.00 Lauramide ϋΕΑ 4.00 4.00 Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate 8.00 8.00 Hexylene glycol 2.00 2.00 C12 polymer 3.00 0.00 C8 polymer 0.00 3.00 Citric Acid, 100% (5) How much is required for pH 6.0 How much is required for pH 6.0 Sodium chloride 1.36 1.36 Disodium EDTA 0.10 0.10 OMOM hydantoin 0.10 0.10 Perfume How much is required How much is required

Example 25. Moisturizing lotion.

Hydrophobically modified polymers give the skin a feeling of softness and smoothness and contribute to the spreading of the emulsion of the moisturizing lotion compositions. A representative composition is presented in table. 27.

Table 27

Moisturizing Lotion

Ingredient mass% mass% Water How much is required How much is required Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.25 0.25 Glycerol 2.00 2.00 Petroleum jelly 2.00 2.00 Mineral oil 4.00 4.00 Cetyl alcohol 3.00 3.00 Stearic alcohol 2.00 2.00 Po1a \ l / ah ΝΕ 1.00 1.00 Dimethicone 100 centipoise 0.50 0.50 Crosslinked Acrylate Polymer / C1030 Alkyl Acrylate 0.30 0.30 Triethanolamine 0.25 0.25 C12 polymer (5%) 5.00 0.00 C8 polymer (8%) 0.00 3,125 Preservative How much is required How much is required

Example 26. Evaluation of the increase in viscosity of liquid soap compositions for hands containing hydrophobically modified polymers.

A representative composition of liquid soap for the hands is presented in table. 28. The viscosity indicators are presented in table. 29.

- 23 013329

Table 28

Composition of liquid soap for hands

Ingredient mass% Deionized water How much is required Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, 29% 10.00 Sodium lauryl ether sulfate, 1 mol of EA, 28% 8.21 Sodium Cocoylisethionate 2.00 C8 polymer 0.00 C12 polymer 5.00 Citric Acid, 100% (h) 0.006 Sodium chloride How much is required Disodium EDTA 0.10 KaLop SS 0.05 OMOM hydantoin 0.10

Table 29

Viscosity measurement

Sample 4/20 viscosity at 1.0% NaCl Hand control soap 2540 C12 polymer 3410 Benchmark Data, Hydroxypropyl Methyl Cellulose 1880

As shown in the table. 29, a C12 hydrophobic polymer in combination with 1% sodium chloride provides a higher viscosity than a control soap and a comparative material based on hydroxypropyl methylcellulose.

Example 27. Group assessment of silicone-containing hydrophobically modified polymers in relation to combing.

The hair strands in two repetitions are treated with two types of silicone modified polymer. The treated hair strands are then washed with deionized water for 15 seconds. The treatment is repeated twice more. Combing hair includes unraveling and wet combing. Evaluation is carried out in points from 1 to 5. A large number means that the hair is more easily untangled and combed. The table below summarizes the results of group testing. It is shown that two types of silicone modified polymer provide better combing than control.

Table 30

Group combing for silicone modified polymer

Title Untangling Combing point The control 2 2 Polymer IX 4.4 3.6 Polymer X 4.1 3.0

Example 28. Composition of detergent for washing clothes.

Hydrophobically modified polymers exhibit good compatibility with anionic surfactants and viscosity synergy. These benefits make it possible to incorporate representative polymers into household cleaners and laundry detergents. A representative composition of a detergent for washing clothes is presented in table. 31. The composition is obtained by adding the ingredients in the order listed and by completely dissolving each ingredient with moderate stirring. If necessary, coloring and flavoring agents may be included in the composition.

- 24 013329

Table 31

Effective Laundry Detergent

Ingredient mass% Water How much is required C12 polymer 2 Tetrasodium EDTA (38%) 0.2 C12 / 14 ELKYL GLYCOSIDE 4.0 Alkyl Ethoxylate 3,5 Linear alkyl benzenesulfonic acid, sodium salt 6.5 Monoethanolamine 1,0

Although this invention is described in detail for purposes of illustration, it should be borne in mind that such a detailed description is for this purpose only and that numerous modifications, changes and replacements can be made by specialists in this field without deviating from the essence and scope of this invention, except as limited by the claims. All changes within the interpretation and range of equivalence of the claims should be considered to be covered by its scope.

Claims (16)

CLAIM 1. A cosmetically acceptable composition containing one or more hydrophobically modified polyacrylamides and one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients, where the hydrophobically modified polyacrylamide consists of acrylamide, one or more cationic monomers and possibly one or more anionic monomers and is modified by transamidation with one or more hydrophobic amine. 2. The composition according to claim 1, where the polyacrylamide consists of acrylamide in an amount of at least 50 mol.%. 3. The composition according to claim 2, where the polyacrylamide is modified by transamidation with one or more hydrophobic amines in an amount of from about 0.1 to about 10 mol%. 4. The composition according to claim 3, where the hydrophobically modified polymer has K8U (reduced specific viscosity) from about 0.1 to about 8 dl / g 5. The composition according to claim 4, where the cationic monomers are selected from diallyldimethylammonium chloride and methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride. 6. The composition according to claim 5, where the hydrophobic amines are selected from the group consisting of C ₆ -C ₂₂ alkylamines and amino functionalized silicones. 7. The composition according to claim 6, where the hydrophobically modified polymer has K8U from about 1 to about 5. 8. The composition of claim 7, wherein the polyacrylamide is an acrylamide / diallyldimethylammonium chloride copolymer. 9. The composition of claim 8, where the alkylamines are selected from the group consisting of octylamine, dodecylamine, hexadecylamine. 10. The composition of claim 8, wherein the alkyl amines are selected from the group consisting of silanes functionalized with amino groups. 11. The composition according to claim 1, containing from about 0.01 to about 40 wt.% Hydrophobically modified polymer, calculated on the dry matter of the polymer. 12. The composition according to claim 1, where the excipients are selected from the group consisting of water, saccharides, surfactants, moisturizers, petroleum jelly, mineral oil, fatty alcohols, softeners based on esters of fatty acids, waxes and silicone waxes, silicone oil , silicone fluid, silicone surfactants, volatile hydrocarbon oils, quaternary nitrogen compounds, functionalized amino groups of silicones, conditioning polymers, rheological modifiers, antioxidants, sun shield active agents, long chain diamines from about C10 to C22, long chain fatty amines from about C10 to C22, fatty alcohols, ethoxylated fatty alcohols and double-tailed phospholipids. 13. The composition according to claim 1, made in the form of shampoos, aftershave, sunscreens, lotions, creams for hands and body, liquid soaps, bar soaps, bath oils, shaving creams, dishwashing liquids, conditioners, products for permanent curls, hair straighteners, hair bleaching agents, lotions to facilitate combing of hair, hair styling gel, hair styling compounds and give them a glossy shine, foam sprays, hair styling creams, hair styling waxes, styling lotions hair, mousse, g ley sprays, lipsticks, shower gels, foam baths, hair dye, temporary and permanent hair colors, Tony - 25 013329 conditioners, hair brighteners, dyeing and non-dyeing hair conditioners, hair tinting products, hair curlers, permanent curlers, hair curlers, hair straighteners, hair care products, hair tonic , hair care products and oxidizing products, sprayers, hair styling waxes and balms. 14. The composition according to claim 1, made in the form of household cleaners and detergents for washing clothes. 15. A method of treating a substrate selected from hair, skin or nails, comprising applying a cosmetically acceptable composition according to claim 1 to this substrate. 16. The method according to clause 15, where the substrate is hair.