DE4443645C2 - Soap-free cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations - Google Patents

Description

Field of the Invention

The invention relates to soap-free cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations with verbes Serter skin cosmetic tolerance, containing sulfated fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides and other selected surfactants.

State of the art

For a large number of cosmetic and pharmaceutical preparations, the use of Anionic surfactants are essential as foaming, cleaning and / or emulsifying components bar. The need to use anionic surfactants in hair shampoos or bubble baths, for example to add, stands in the way that these substances often because of their good surface-active Properties sometimes have deficits with regard to skin cosmetic tolerance. In this Context are from the international patent application WO 94/12608 (Procter & Gamble) Foam-strong, soap-containing surfactant compositions known as u. a. also Sulfation products of fatty acid N-alkyl glucamides can contain.

Since there is a constant need in the market for anionic surfactants that are mild on the one hand and on the other hand have an advantageous foaming, cleaning and / or emulsifying ability the object of the invention consisted of new cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulations to make available that contain such substances.

Description of the invention

The invention relates to soap-free cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations holding

• (a) sulfation products of fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides of the formula (I), in which R¹CO is an aliphatic acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R² is hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and [Z] is a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl radical having 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups, and
• (b) further surfactants selected from the group formed by fatty alcohol ether sulfates, Mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, protein fatty acid condensates, Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides and alkyl amido betaines.

Surprisingly, it was found that cosmetic products containing sulfated fat acid-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides and the selected surfactants have a comparatively high skin have cosmetic tolerance and good foaming and cleaning properties.

Sulfated fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides

Sulfation products of fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are known substances that can be obtained according to the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry. On A process for their preparation consists, for example, of fatty acid N-methylglucamides in methyl Lenchlorid or pyridine dissolved submit with a complex of sulfur trioxide and pyridine sulfate and then neutralize the reaction products with bases (WO 94/12472). At the starting materials for the sulfation products, the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides it is also known substances, which are usually reduced by reductive amination sugar with ammonia, an alkylamine or an alkanolamine and subsequent acylation can be obtained with a fatty acid, a fatty acid alkyl ester or a fatty acid chloride. Both the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides and their sulfa are preferably derived tion products of reducing sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, in particular from Glucose. The preferred sulfated fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are therefore sulfa tion products of fatty acid N-alkyl glucamides as represented by the formula (II) will:

Preferably used as starting materials for the sulfated fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are glucamides of the formula (II) in which R² is hydrogen or an amine group and R¹CO is the acyl radical of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, Stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid or erucic acid or their technical mixtures. Particularly preferred starting materials are fatty acid N-alkylglucamides of the formula (II) which are obtained by reductive amination of glucose with methylamine and subsequent acylation with lauric acid or C _12/14 coconut fatty acid or a corresponding derivative. Furthermore, the sulfated polyhydroxyalkylamides can also be derived from maltose and palatinose. The sulfated fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides and the other surfactants can be used in a weight ratio of 1:99 to 99: 1, preferably 10:90 to 75:25 and in particular 40:60 to 60:40.

Industrial applicability

The preparations according to the invention are notable for improved foaming power and a comparatively high skin cosmetic tolerance. Typical examples of suitable Zu Preparations are skin and hair care products such as hair shampoos, hair treatments, hair rinses, hair lotions, hair dye and hair waving agents, bubble baths, lipid and moisturizing creams, sun tanning preservatives, ointments and hand lotions.

Auxiliaries and additives

Skin care products, such as creams, lotions and the like, usually have - besides the surfactants already mentioned - a content of oil bodies, emulsifiers, fats and waxes, Stabilizers and superfatting agents, thickeners, biogenic agents, film formers, con preservatives, colors and fragrances. Hair care products, such as hair shampoos, Hair lotions, bubble baths and the like can be used as further auxiliaries and additives - in addition to already mentioned surfactants - emulsifiers, superfatting agents, thickeners, biogenic agents, Contain film formers, preservatives, colors and fragrances.  

Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear C₆-C₂₀ fatty acids with linear C₆-C₂₀- Fatty alcohols, esters of branched C₆-C₁₃ carboxylic acids with linear C₁₆-C₁₈ fatty alcohols, esters of linear C₁₀-C₁₈ fatty acids with branched alcohols, especially 2-ethylhexanol, esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with dihydric alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols, Triglycerides based on C₆-C₁₀ fatty acids, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted Cyclohexanes, Guerbet carbonates and / or dialkyl ethers into consideration. Both come as emulsifiers known W / O and O / W emulsifiers such as hardened and ethoxylated castor oil, Polyglycerol fatty acid esters or polyglycerol polyricinoleates in question. Typical examples of fats are Glycerides, waxes come u. a. Beeswax, paraffin wax or micro waxes if necessary Combination with hydrophilic waxes, e.g. B. Cetylstearyl alcohol in question. Can be used as stabilizers Metal salts of fatty acids such as B. magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate can be used. Substances such as, for example, polyethoxylated lanolin derivatives and leci can be used as superfatting agents thine derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides are used, wherein the latter also serve as foam stabilizers. Suitable thickeners are in the for example polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, Carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, as well as higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone, surfactants as in for example fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrow homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides as well Electrolytes such as table salt and ammonium chloride. Biogenic active ingredients are, for example To understand plant extracts and vitamin complexes. Common film formers are, for example Chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives and the like Links. Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol and formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid. Glycol, for example, comes as a pearlescent agent distearic acid esters such as ethylene glycol distearate, but also fatty acid monoglycol esters into consideration. As Dyes can use substances that are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes as described, for example, in the publication "Cosmetic Dyes" by the Dye Commission sion of the German Research Foundation, published by Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, Pp. 81-106 are compiled. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 up to 0.1 wt .-%, based on the total mixture used.

The total proportion of auxiliaries and additives can be 1 to 50, preferably 5 to 40% by weight and non-aqueous content ("active substance content") 20 to 80, preferably 30 to 70 wt .-% - based on the means - amount. The preparation of the agents can be carried out in a manner known per se, i. H. for example by hot, cold, hot-hot / cold or PIT emulsification. This is a pure mechanical process, there is no chemical reaction.

Examples

The foaming power of the products was determined in accordance with the Ross-Miles Test (DIN 53 902, Part 2) Water with a hardness of 16 d, examined at 23 ° C (1 g AS / I) without fat. The ratio of Components A and B in Table 1 represent the weight ratio. Formulations 1 to 6 are According to the invention, recipes V1 to V7 are used for comparison.

Table 1

Foaming power

Claims (2)

1. Soap-free cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations containing

• (a) sulfation products of fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides of the formula (I), in which R¹CO is an aliphatic acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R² is hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and [Z] is a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl radical having 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups, and
• (b) further surfactants selected from the group consisting of fatty alcohol ether sulfates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, protein fatty acid condensates, alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides and alkyl amido betaines.

2. Preparations according to claim 1, characterized in that they are cat as further additives contain ionic polymers, silicone compounds and / or chitosans.