DE2055327A1 - Process for making shoes - Google Patents

Description

Case 66o2

Deutsche Semperit Gummiwerk Ges.m »b» H.

Process for making shoes

The invention "relates to a method of manufacture of shoes by molding a sole onto a shoe upper.

In the manufacture of such shoes, it is extremely advantageous for economic reasons to use shaft material, which in its raw state does not yet meet the minimum requirements placed on a shoe, but only after it has been applied at least one top layer. Examples of such raw shaft material are in particular I ^ ahl leather and textiles. But also smooth leather types, from which shoes are to be made are generally treated with spray paints, aniline paints or the like. At such. Rubber adheres to surfaces, but plastics like this also do not which are to be applied directly to a pinched leather upper part, in particular by injection molding. It is therefore required, at least Either roughening the lasting hold and / or using chemical adhesives to provide. Both require additional work and also cause IlatorialkosOeri. In addition, both when roughening, as well as with the application of adhesives difficult iot, to precisely adhere to the contours of the later sprayed-on sole.

So far this has been done with the help of a template or by placing the listed upper part on the Ilona and removed again, creating a mark on the

109821 / U33

BATH ORIGINAL

Shoe upper, along which the roughening and / or coating with adhesives took place.

It has therefore already been proposed to use special leather finishes provide, which improve the adhesion of the leather to the plastic or rubber sole to be applied. These However, the procedure requires a specific pretreatment of the leather for each sole material and is for this reason uneconomical. In addition, the entire leather surface is made adherent in such prepreparations, which z. B. in the case of PVC as a sole material, for example, the coating with a PVA-PVC mixture means the leather character of the upper part not only changed, but also brings with it the risk of later soiling on this adherent upper part. Lie Adhesiveness is by no means desirable for serviceability at all points.

For fashion reasons, great emphasis is placed on the visuals Impression of the surface of leather or synthetic soldering materials placed. Unfortunately, little consideration can be given to the technical necessities that arise from the later Soling and the necessary adhesion of the leather surface result.

The fact that so far practically all leather and artificial leather shoes soles are soled by gluing or injection molding after the soling surface of the upper material is roughened and / or with has been provided with an adhesive line, proves that one is not yet in a position to have a surface finish for shoe leather, that at the same time meet the desired fashion and visual requirements corresponds, gives an optimal usability and also acts as an adhesion promoter to the carbonation material. In addition kou :: r.t the fact that even in cases where the soling / jsmatorial or the adhesion promoter on the leather surface finish is sufficient would adhere to the anchoring of the leather finish on the leather surface itself is often sufficient. It can then be used later during the

1098 2-1 / 1433 -.- 3 -

BAO

The sole may become detached when you wear it.

In addition, the leather is usually not only with the surface finish required for use, but always in different colors. For a shoe factory, this means, on the one hand, the expensive storage of different color designs in order to make the fashionable To meet requirements, and on the other hand brings the risk of the formation of stockpiles of leather types and Shoes with a color that is no longer fashionable.

The previously usual procedure of finishing the upper material before the manufacture of the shoe upper, that the shoe made from it only has to be provided with a known lacquer finish (in contrast to the leather finish) must, in particular, has the disadvantage that it reduces the manufacturing process the shafts is made more difficult. The raw material of the shaft becomes thickened by the coating; Shoe upper slightly damaged, so that the finished shoe is only must be subjected to a caching treatment again.

In contrast to known manufacturing processes, the Invention before that the shoe upper made of a raw shaft material is produced, the surface of which is veroiiidbar without further processing with the sole, and that only that is not from the hollow covered area of the shoe upper by applying at least a top layer is completed. Subsequent to the application of the cover layer, the finished shoe upper can be used can be provided with a lacquer finish in the well-known '.'.

In shoe production, such a procedure largely eliminates the disadvantages outlined above, since the optical, but also the economic requirements due to the application of the coating to the finished shoe upper on can best be taken into account, with the large stock keeping is avoided and on a possibly unfavorable for the soling

109821 / U33

6AO OfISGiNAL

special pretreatment of the entire leather surface is not taken into account must be genomiaed. But this also creates difficulties reduced, which occur again and again in a shoe factory that leather deliveries of different batches or different Origin in their color tones and / or finishing are not uniform.

Shaft material for carrying out the inventive method driving is z. B. undyed chrome or vegetable tanned leather, with the lowest possible fat content, e.g. 3. so-called pale leather. *

The fat content should not exceed 5% if possible; the leathers known to date with the lowest fat content have a fat content of around 1 to 3 % . If the fat content of the leather is too high, its ability to adhere to adhesives or sprayed-on soling materials is severely impaired, as the fat contained in the leather diffuses on its surface and there, similar to softened plastics, a natural separating layer between the leather and the materials adhering to it is often created even after a long period of time. If the fat content of relatively smooth, undyed leather types is above 5 % , then in many cases it is advisable to wash off the turned over lasting edge or the part of the upper to be connected to the sole material with suitable solvents in order to avoid roughening.

If there is any concern that it is despite the use of the uncolored Leather does achieve good adhesion between the leather surface (epidermis) and the sole material, but none if there is sufficient adhesion in the top layers of the leather itself, it will be advisable to use a leather whose top layer before being processed into the shoe upper in on known to have been repelled.

However, the shaft can also be made of a leather or synthetic leather whose surface is matt or velor. Up there

1 Q 9 8 2 1 / U 3 3 - 5 -

BAD ORiGINAL

Suede leather, as well as most of them on suede synthetic leather Soling materials and adhesion promoters are sufficient Find a good anchorage, it is not necessary for tops made of such materials, the lasting impact or other surface parts of the Schiftmater that come into contact with the soling iales to roughen up.

According to a further embodiment of the present invention, the shoe upper is made of a bound or unbound textile material, such as fleece, knitted fabric, woven fabric or the like. manufactured. And in particular knitted fabrics, eg 'jerseys from tree / oJ.le, polyester, polyamide, Gell wool, acrylic fibers. "S. W. Are by their particular elasticity. In general, the textile material in leather is stretched over the bar by about 40 PY For example, a jersey with the following properties can be used:

Yarn number He 36 (Nm 60) 12-17 washes / cm
Weight 170 - 190 grams / m tensile strength 29/13 kg / 5 cm elongation at break 70/240 %

If the material is bound, it must be sufficiently elastic be able to forge the desired strips accordingly. Should an unbound material be used, which is often because of the better moisture absorption properties on the inside of the shoe is desired, then it is convenient to use the material to be used in the form of a hose, if necessary by sutures. However, this procedure only allows the manufacture to be simpler Shoe forging, however, avoids the labor-intensive and costly Sewing or quilting of tops. Ks will be used later noon can be explained using the drawing.

109821/1433 bad original

Furthermore, foils can also be used, which preferably have a tubular shape that corresponds to the greatest possible extent. In order to achieve this, shrink foils with a sufficiently hot shrinking capacity can be used. A particularly suitable material is polyethylene (with a shrinking capacity of, for example, 15-40 %). However, shrink films made of PVC or polypropylene can also be used. The shrinkage process is achieved by increasing the temperature, e.g. by applying hot air. Since the films are generally impermeable to air, they should "breathe" After the foils have been placed on the edges, they are expediently provided with an adhesion promoter known per se.

In addition, polyurethane foams can also be used, they can be partially air-permeable and have good adhesion properties for the top layer. For example, a polyester urethane foam is about 4 mm thick (in the unstretched state), with an elongation at break of more than 120 %, preferably 150%, and one

ρ
Tear strength of 1 kg / cm used.

In order to avoid sticking to the skirting board if the top layer penetrates the polyurethane foam layer and to make it easier to pull on the hose, the last can be coated with a release agent or lubricant.

The inventive method step, namely the partial Coating of the upper made of raw material can in particular take place in the "." still completely adhesive-friendly shoe upper part formed and this is only then provided with the top layer or layers. The completion of the surface of the already provided with a sole The shaft is advantageously carried out by electrostatic spray painting, as long as the shaft is still on a metal strip and on the form for the sole is located. This makes it possible to paint without too much manual effort to be confined to the shaft and the need for a covering

109821 / U33 - 7 -

BATH

to avoid dor sole. However, Ss has also proven to be useful proven to be the sole by injecting it onto the shaft in one to apply inside a mold provided with a suitable release agent and. then after the deformation has taken place, the shaft material is closed paint. Any traces of lacquer that have got onto the sole can then be removed because of the separating material residues there.

The sole can either be pretreated in such a way that any lacquer, finish or similar layers can be easily removed can e.g. B. by pulling one on the sole surface from one suitable plastic material intentionally formed skin or by brushing. In order to achieve fashionable effects, however, an antiquing, for example, can also be used on the sole, in particular on the cutting edge Paint can be applied. If the upper part of the shoe is still painted on the mold, it is advantageous to any parts that come into contact with the lacquer or the like and adjoin the shoe with a peelable skin made of suitable plastic, e.g. B. acetyl cellulose or polyvinyl alcohol, or to be provided with self-adhesive crepe strips.

In the context of the invention, however, it is also possible to first use the upper made of raw ochaitmaterial with a Provide a coating that covers the lower edge of the shaft or the lasting allowance Freillliit to which the sole is to be molded. the Covering is preferably done by means of a template.

The coating is preferably carried out by means of a polyvrethane image probe Production from isocyanates and active hydrogen fat atoms Links. Pourable or sprayable polyurethane elastomer, preferably based on a polyester film, or an i-olyurethane coating material can be used. The latter is by suitable solvents, e.g. 3. Dimethylformamide, ecig ester or tetrahydrofuran made spreadable and applied to the upper part of the shoe Plastic backing paints can be used, such as 3. networkable polishing solutions for transparent or pigmented fabric coatings.

109821/1433 " ⁸ "

BATH ORIGINAL

If special designs are required on the shaft, these can be achieved, for example in the case of a polyurethane coating, by processing the coating at an elevated temperature. A special design can also be created by subsequent processing, such as. Sanding, or by pressing against forms with AIRBAG. In addition, it is possible to provide the shoes or the shaft with a particularly thick layer at the points of preferred wear, such as the heel, ankle and / or toe areas, for example through a longer dwell time of the jet could be achieved in those areas when spraying. It may, however, the whole shoe f by applying a further coating reinforced Verden '.

Furthermore, after the sole has been coated with a release agent, the entire shoe can be dipped in a solution, whereupon the sole is cleaned by brushing or the like. Suitable solutions are, for example, PVC plastisol or a lacquer solution known per se. The release agent can be a paraffin or a petrol-based one ^: “V ach spas be, but also a silicone compound.

The method of the invention will now be exemplified Hand outlined drawing. 1, 2, 7 and 8 show Textile or plastic material covered shoe lasts in view, ^ FIGS. 5 and 4 a shoe last covered with leather-like material in view and overview and Fig. 5> and 6 shoe lasts with the shoe pulled on during the spraying process in section.

In the method shown in FIG. 1, a last in the longitudinal direction with a substantially tubular, highly elastic Textile, plastic material or the like 2 coated, which thanks to its elasticity, fits snugly against the groin. In the area of the inguinal tip 3 and the heel section 4- Textile material sewn together by horizontal seams 5 and 6, after which the sections 7 and 8 protruding over the strips are folded down according to the arrows 9 and 10. The seams 5 and 6 can also be omitted. Sections 7 and 8 ″ / then just turn over and attach to the sole section, e.g. by stapling,

109821 / U33 - 9 -. "

........ BAD ORIGINAL

Hot melting, gluing or the like attached. This gives a shaft blank, on which a sole can be injected. After or before cutting out the opening for the bone section of the foot the upper can be coated.

In the example after the Pig. 2, a tubular textile material 2 is pushed over the last, which in the toe section of the last 3 is sewn and turned over as in the example of FIG. In the heel section 4- the textile, material 2 sewn together by a substantially vertical seam 11 along the heel contour, and the protruding IJmaterial is turned over to the side according to the arrow 12.

In the embodiment according to FIG. 7, the textile material 2 is cut obliquely so that it is placed on the strips 1 after being pulled over with the cut edges 29 and jo parallel to the sole or ankle part lies, with the cutting edge 29 forming the ankle opening.

Fig. 8 shows a drawn textile material 2, which over the Heel through a vertical iTaht 31 and over the instep through a oblique seam 32 is sewn.

However, a textile part in the shape of a stocking can also be used produced v / earth, which is then pulled over the - ^ οΐ3Ϊ3η. This Hosiery is especially used when, due to an extreme last formation, a hose pulled over it no longer is present in all sections.

3 and 4 show a strip 1 on which a Shaft blank made of leather-like material is pulled up. This "Ohaft Blank consists of two on the right and left on the ledge Sections 13 through a seam 14 in the instep and toe sections and are sewn together by a U-seam 15 in the heel section. The parts 13 are also by seams 16 and 17 ndt an inner sole 18 sewn, as shown in FIG. According to a special design of the shoe upper can be known per se Way, several sections can be sewn together.

1O0821 / U33 - ¹⁰ '

BATH ORIGINAL "

The Pig. 5 shows a last I ¹ with a shoe upper part 1, which is provided with an inner sole 20 and onto which an outer sole 21 is injection molded. The strip 1 ′ and the spray nozzle 22 are connected to an electrostatic voltage source 23. In order to avoid a coating of the outsole 21 during the spraying process and to direct the spray 24 exactly onto the ^{upper section of the shoe, the lower section of the last I 1 has} an insulating layer 25 which avoids the electrostatic charging of the section of the sole 21 a special design of the insulating layer 25, the electrostatic charge on the upper part of the shoe can be designed in such a way that a stronger electrostatic charge takes place in the upper sections and thus a continuous transition in the color shade from bottom to top takes place during painting.

6 shows a last 1 covered with an upper 19 just after the injection molding of the soles 21 in the injection mold 26. The surface 27 of the injection mold 25 is coated with a film 2S, which means that the surface 27 is soiled during the spraying process prevented by the spray 2 ¹ V. Instead of the film 28, however, the surface can also be coated with a release agent or have an easily detachable coating. Due to the molded lips 33 resting between the sole 21 and the upper leather 19, a narrow strip of the upper leather 19 in the immediate area of the sole 21 is not sprayed. This can be coated with a small island after demolding. However, a narrow wheel can also be used, the peripheral edge of which is painted with paint and allows the mfm to roll over the section to be coated.

As mentioned, the shoe upper can during the coating can also be covered with a stencil at its lower edge only later the sole, z. B. a Polyurethansoiile molded will.

It should be noted that the erfindungsge ;; ^i: SSE coating has nothing to do with the usual application einos lacquer finish, as is commonly before leaving the factory to finished shoes

108821/1433

20S5327

sprayed on v / ird. Rather, the coating proposed according to the invention is always one that
it is only permitted to speak of a finished shoe in the usual sense.

109821 / U33

Claims (1)

Patent claims: 1. Process for the manufacture of shoes by molding a Sole on a shoe upper, characterized in that the shoe upper is produced from a raw upper material, its Surface 'can be connected to the sole without further processing, and that only the area of the shoe upper not covered by the sole by applying at least one cover layer is completed. 2. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that first the sole is molded onto the upper and this subsequently is provided with the cover layer or layers. 5. The method according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized gekennaeichnet, that the sole is attached to the upper by injection molding in a mold provided with a suitable release agent on the inside, whereupon the shaft surface is finished after defoning takes place, and that any traces of paint present on the sole are then removed. 4. The method according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that that the form is provided on its surface with a release layer or coated with a release agent, and that the The upper is provided with the cover layer after the sole has been molded on in the mold, whereupon the shoe is optionally imprinted after removal from the mold The area between the sole and the upper is repainted. 5. Method according to one of Claims 1 or 2, characterized in that that the shaft is dipped in a coating agent, after the sole has been provided with a release agent coating, if necessary, so that it is subsequently removed from any adherent Coating agent residues can be cleaned 109821/1433 BATH 6. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that first the shoe upper with the exception of the lower shaft edge or lasting allowance is coated and then the sole is molded onto the uncoated part of the shoe upper will · 7. Procedure according to. Claim 6, characterized in that when Coating the preferably listed upper part of the shoe, the lower edge of the upper or the lasting allowance is covered by a template. 8. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the shaft surface by electrostatic Spray painting is completed as long as the shoe upper is still on a metal strip and possibly on the mold for the sole is located. 9. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized that the coating is made from a polyurethane-forming mixture. 10 · The method according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the shoe upper is made of undyed, in particular Pale leather, is made. 11. The method according to claim 10, characterized in that the The top layer of the leather is repelled in a known manner before it is processed into the upper part. 12. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the shoe upper is made of a material, the surface is matt (velor) or roughened. 13. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 9i, characterized in, that the shoe upper made of an artificial leather; / ird. 109821 / U33 bad o _R1Q , nal 14. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 9 »characterized in that that the shaft is made of a bound or unbound ■ textile material, preferably a tricot material will. 15 · Method according to one of Claims 1 to 9 »characterized in that that the shaft is made of an optionally perforated plastic film, preferably a shrink film. 16. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 9 »characterized in that that the shaft is made of foam, preferably polyurethane foam. 17. The method according to any one of claims 14 to 16, characterized in that that the textile material or the plastic film is used in tubular form. . 18. The method according to claim 17 *, characterized in that the Hose is sewn or welded diagonally in the bidding area. DEUTSCHf SEMPElIT GUMMIWERK GES.M.B.H. 109821/1433 L ^ - 1 blank page