DE202017106911U1 - Clothing fabric with a predetermined color, predetermined pattern effect and predetermined fabric properties - Google Patents

Abstract

A garment fabric in a predetermined required optical color and having a predetermined required pattern effect and predetermined physical properties, wherein the garment fabric is made according to the following steps: (i) providing a first plurality of n yarns, the denier total of n yarns of a first denier (Ii) providing at least one further plurality of m yarns, the denier total of m yarns corresponding to another denier number (D); (iii) forming a plurality of multilayer yarns, each multi-ply yarn is made of at least two yarns, each multi-ply yarn being made of one yarn of the first plurality of n yarns and the yarn of one of the other pluralities of m yarns and the denier numbers of all the yarns of the multi-ply yarn together being the required yarn count; Provide denier number for a knitting process; and (iv) knitting the multi-ply yarn made of the first yarn variety with the at least one further yarn variety by a knitting process to form a multi-ply garment fabric, each yarn being formed of a plurality of fibers made of a polymer material wherein the fibers are produced in a spin dyeing process and the fibers are dyed during the spin dyeing process; wherein when knitting the multilayer yarn made from the first plurality of n yarns with the at least one further plurality of m yarns to form the multi-layered cloth fabric the garment fabric is made to have the predetermined required optical color and the predetermined required pattern effect without optically visible changes in the required optical color and the required pattern effect; and wherein the first plurality of n yarns and the at least one further plurality of m yarns are selected to provide the predetermined optical color and the predetermined pattern effect as well as the predetermined physical properties.

Description

Technical area

The present invention relates to a garment fabric and a garment fabric making system, the present invention particularly relates to a colored garment fabric and a colored garment fabric providing system.

Background of the invention

There are many methods and methods of dyeing such apparel materials and apparel fabrics in the textile manufacturing industry.

Techniques used in the textile and clothing dyeing arts in the art include the conventional batch dyeing process. This process is carried out in a high temperature pressurized dyeing apparatus, and dyes such as disperse paints, including Dystar Dianix, of 1 micron size are pre-wetted in water with a dyeing liquor in a suitable dye to water ratio of usually about 1: 8 dispersed as a dispersion in the water. In such a high temperature dyeing process, the dispersed dye may be provided to provide the ratio or percentage of disperse dye to the fabric weight with a pH buffering system formed from yarn or fibers.

In such a method, the dyeing process is started at room temperature, which is then raised to a high temperature of about 130 ° C to 135 ° C. The temperature is raised by temperature control at about 1.5 ° C per minute to a temperature of 90 ° C and then held at the temperature of 90 ° C for a period of about 10 minutes to determine the dye leveling or uniformity of the on a fabric surface to support distributed dye. The temperature is then raised to the required temperature of about 130 ° C to 135 ° C for a period of 30 minutes to 40 minutes to prevent penetration of the dye into the web, e.g. into a polyethylene terephthalate (polyester) polymer produced fabric.

The dye bath in which the fabric resides is then lowered from a temperature as high as possible to prevent the residual oligomer from adhering to the fabric, usually at a rapid cooling rate of 132 degrees Celsius, to room temperature, often at room temperature Intermediate temperature of 80 degrees Celsius, which promotes the reduction of wrinkling in the fabric.

The fabric is then usually washed out at room temperature, which consists of more than one washout in water, which usually has a room temperature. After the washing process step, the fabric is subjected to a reduction clear (RC) treatment step, thereby washing out the fabric in a bath, typically the equivalent of about two grams per liter of 100% solid caustic soda (sodium hydroxide ) and hydro (sodium hydrosulfite).

This is followed by a neutralization step in which the fabric is treated in a neutralizing acid solution, usually acetic acid, for example at 0.5cc / liter for a period of about 30 minutes at room temperature, to remove any remaining alkali materials used in the reductive post-purification step used to neutralize.

Typically, a softening process is then used in which the fabric is treated with a plasticizer at about 4% for a further approximately 30 minutes, for example, with a hydrophilic plasticizer such as Tubingal GSO from CHT, which provides a soft feel on the hand ,

Another dyeing process used in the prior art for dyeing cloth, such as fabric, is the foam dyeing process. In this process, the fabric is heated to a temperature of about 10 degrees Celsius to 20 degrees Celsius above room temperature to provide a softer fabric which is then pulled through a foam dye.

The foam is typically about 10 times larger in volume than water and is intended as a dye transport medium that applies the paint to the fabric as the fabric is drawn through two opposing rollers.

Subsequently, a drying process is required to dry the fabric. The foam dyeing process is commonly used for dyeing carpet and dyeing large amounts of fabric.

Another method of dyeing fabrics used in the art is the cold pad dwelling method. This process is commonly used in the art for dyeing cellulosic materials and for dyeing cotton knit fabrics. Approximately 1/3 of the cotton wool dyeing in Europe is done according to this procedure.

The pad-cold dyeing method involves a technique or process in which paddle-dyeing first begins by soaking the prepared cloth with a premixed dyeing liquor, then passing it through a set of rollers. The rollers, also known as paddlers, effectively push the dye into the fabric. In this cold-padding process, the excess dyeing solution is also removed. After removal of the excess dye, the fabric is then "wound up", the winding being done by storage in rolls or boxes, which usually takes at least 4-12 hours. The wraps are usually sealed with plastic films that prevent the absorption of carbon dioxide and evaporation of water. Finally, at the end of the reaction, the fabrics are usually washed in vats, trees or other washers.

Another method of dyeing fabrics used in the art is dyeing with carbon dioxide, which is also known in the art as vapor phase dyeing. This is a recent development in the field of textile and fabric dyeing processes where a fabric is dyed under steam without the need for water. The entire process is done in a closed environment to prevent contamination of the environment and the environment.

Subject of the invention

It is an object of the present invention to provide a garment fabric made according to a method and a system for providing a garment fabric which overcomes or ameliorates at least some of the disadvantages associated with the prior art.

Brief summary of the invention

The present invention may encompass many broad forms. Embodiments of the present invention may include any or any combination of the various broad forms described herein.

1. (i) Bereitstellen einer ersten Vielzahl von n Garnen, wobei die Denier-Gesamtzahl von n Garnen einer ersten Denier-Zahl (D₁) entspricht;
2. (ii) Bereitstellen mindestens einer weiteren Vielzahl von m Garnen, wobei die Denier-Gesamtzahl von m Garnen einer weiteren Denier-Zahl (D₂) entspricht;
3. (iii) Bilden von mehreren mehrlagigen Garnen, die jeweils aus mindestens zwei Garnen hergestellt sind, wobei jeder mehrlagige Garn aus einem Garn aus der ersten Vielzahl von n Garnen und aus dem Garn aus einer der weiteren Vielzahlen von m Garnen hergestellt ist und die Denier-Zahlen aller Garne des mehrlagigen Garns gemeinsam die geforderte Garn-Denier-Zahl für ein Strickverfahren bereitstellen; und
4. (iv) Verstricken des mehrlagigen Garns, das aus der ersten Garnvielzahl hergestellt ist, mit der mindestens einen weiteren Garnvielzahl durch ein Strickverfahren, so dass ein mehrlagiger Bekleidungsstoff gebildet wird,

wobei jedes Garn aus mehreren Fasern, die aus einem Polymermaterial hergestellt sind, gebildet ist, wobei die Fasern in einem Spinnfärbeverfahren hergestellt und die Fasern während des Spinnfärbeverfahrens gefärbt werden;In a first aspect, the present invention provides a garment fabric in a predetermined required optical color and having a predetermined required pattern effect and predetermined physical properties, wherein the garment fabric is made according to a method comprising the steps of:

1. (i) providing a first plurality of n yarns, the denier total of n yarns corresponding to a first denier number (D ₁ );
2. (ii) providing at least one further plurality of m yarns, the denier total of m yarns corresponding to another denier number (D ₂ );
3. (iii) forming a plurality of multi-ply yarns each made of at least two yarns, each multi-ply yarn being made of one of the first plurality of n yarns and the yarn of one of the further pluralities of m yarns, and the denier Numbers of all the yarns of the multi-ply yarn together provide the required yarn denier number for a knitting process; and
4. (iv) knitting the multi-ply yarn made of the first yarn variety with the at least one further yarn variety by a knitting process to form a multi-ply garment fabric;

wherein each yarn is formed of a plurality of fibers made of a polymeric material, wherein the fibers are made in a spin dyeing process and the fibers are dyed during the spin dyeing process;

wherein when knitting the multi-ply yarn made of the first plurality of n yarns with the at least one further plurality of m yarns to form the multi-ply cloth fabric, the cloth fabric is made to have the predetermined required optical color and the predetermined required pattern effect without optically visible changes in the required optical color and the required pattern effect; and

wherein the first plurality of n yarns and the at least one further plurality of m yarns are selected to provide the predetermined optical color and the predetermined pattern effect as well as the predetermined physical properties.

The first denier number (D ₁ ) and the further denier number (D ₂ ) are preferably in a range of 45 denier to 200 denier.

Each yarn of the first plurality of n yarns and each yarn of the at least one further plurality of m yarns consists of a number p of fibers, where p is in the range of 40 to 300 and each fiber has a largest cross-sectional diameter in the range of 0.2 microns to 1.1 microns.

The polymeric material from which each yarn of the first plurality of n yarns and each yarn of the at least one other plurality of m yarns is preferably selected from the group consisting of polyethylene terephthalate, polyester, acrylic, polyolefin, nylon 6 and nylon 66 and mixtures thereof.

The polymer material used in the spin dyeing process preferably has an irregular shape with a maximum dimension in the range of 1.5 to 4 mm. The polymeric material may be provided in an irregular shape having dimensions of about 3.3mm x 3mm x 2.2mm.

The spin dyeing process uses a masterbatch pigment wherein the particle size of the masterbatch is less than the denier number of fibers from which the yarn is made.

The masterbatch pigment preferably has a particle size in the range of 20 nanometers to about 2 micrometers.

The spin dyeing process preferably comprises incorporating a plasticizer to impart a soft effect to the knitted garment fabric.

The spin dyeing process preferably comprises introducing a matting agent in the range of about 0.4 to 1.5 weight percent to impart the required degree of dulling to the knitted garment fabric. The matting agent is preferably TiO ₂ .

The knitting method is preferably an industrial knitting method performed by an automatic knitting machine. The knitting method is preferably carried out with a circular knitting machine.

The first yarn variety and the at least one further yarn variety preferably have the same yarn size.

Preferably, all the yarns of the first plurality of n yarns have the same denier number, so that each yarn has a denier number of (D ₁ ) / n, and all the yarns of the at least one other plurality of m yarns have the same denier Number so that each yarn has a denier number of (D ₂ ) / m.

The first denier number (D ₁ ) preferably corresponds to the further denier number (D ₂ ).

The first yarn variety and the at least one further yarn variety are preferably made from one and the same polymer material.

The required optical color and the required pattern effect may preferably be a homogeneous color effect. Alternatively, the required optical color and the required pattern effect are a regular pattern effect or an irregular pattern effect.

The required optical color and the required pattern effect may be a pattern selected from the group consisting of a melange pattern, stripes, jacquard, motifs, and the like.

In a second aspect, the present invention provides a garment article made of a garment fabric according to the first aspect.

1. (i) Vermischen eines Masterbatch-Farbstoffs in der geforderten Farbe mit einem geschmolzenen Polymermaterial zur Bildung eines geschmolzenen Polymermaterials in der geforderten Farbe;
2. (ii) Extrudieren des geschmolzenen Polymermaterials durch mehrere Spinndüsen, um mehrere spinngefärbte Fasern in der geforderten Farbe zu bilden, wobei die Spinndüsen eine Größe haben, die etwa dem 2 bis 3-fachen der geforderten Größe für die Fasern, aus denen ein Garn herzustellen ist, entspricht; und
3. (iii) Aufwickeln von mehreren Fasern zur Bildung eines spinngefärbten Garns für die spätere Herstellung eines Bekleidungsstoffs.

In a third aspect, the present invention provides a spun-dyed yarn composed of spun-dyed fibers for producing a garment fabric in a predetermined required optical color and having a predetermined required pattern effect and predetermined physical properties, wherein the spun-dyed yarn is produced according to a method. the following steps include:

1. (i) mixing a masterbatch dye in the required color with a molten polymer material to form a molten polymeric material in the required color;
2. (ii) extruding the molten polymer material through a plurality of spinnerets to form a plurality of spun-dyed fibers of the required color, the spinnerets having a size about 2 to 3 times the required size for the fibers from which a yarn is to be made , corresponds; and
3. (iii) winding several fibers to form a spun-dyed yarn for later manufacture of a garment fabric.

The yarn preferably has a denier in a range of 45 denier to 200 denier.

Each yarn preferably consists of a number of fibers in the range of 40 to 300.

Each fiber of the yarn preferably has a largest cross-sectional diameter in the range of 0.2 μm to 1.1 μm.

The polymeric material is preferably made of materials from the group comprising polyethylene terephthalate, polyester, acrylic, polyolefin, and mixtures thereof.

The polymeric material used to form the molten polymeric material is preferably provided in an irregular shape having a maximum dimension in the range of 1.5 to 4 mm. The polymeric material is preferably provided in an irregular shape having dimensions of about 3.3mm x 3mm x 2.2mm.

The masterbatch pigment has a particle size that is less than the denier number of fibers from which the yarn is made.

The masterbatch pigment preferably has a particle size in the range of 20 nanometers to about 2 micrometers.

The method may further comprise a step of introducing a plasticizer into the molten polymeric material to impart a soft effect to the knitted garment fabric prior to extruding the molten polymeric material.

The preparation of the yarn may further include a step of introducing a matting agent in the range of about 0.4 to 1.5 weight percent into the molten polymeric material to impart the required degree of matting to the knitted garment fabric prior to extruding the molten polymeric material , The matting agent is preferably TiO ₂ .

• eine Strickbaugruppe zum Stricken von mehreren Garnen für die Herstellung eines mehrlagigen gestrickten Bekleidungsstoffs in einer vorbestimmten geforderten optischen Farbe und mit einem vorbestimmten geforderten Mustereffekt und vorbestimmten physikalischen Stoffeigenschaften;
• ein Spulengatter zum Tragen von mehreren Spulen; und
• mehrere Führungselemente, die zur Führung von n Garnen von n Spulen zur Strickbaugruppe zum Verstricken mit m Garnen von m Spulen angeordnet sind, wobei jedes Führungselement mindestens eines der n Garne und mindestens eines der m Garne zur Strickbaugruppe führt zur Herstellung eines mehrlagigen Garns für das Verstricken mit einem weiteren mehrlagigen Garn mittels der Strickbaugruppe zum Verstricken des mehrlagigen Garns mit dem weiteren mehrlagigen Garn zur Herstellung des mehrlagigen Bekleidungsstoffs, wobei n und m ganze Zahlen von zwei oder mehr sind;
• wobei beim Stricken des mehrlagigen Garns zur Bildung eines mehrlagigen Bekleidungsstoffs der Bekleidungsstoff so hergestellt wird, dass er die vorbestimmte geforderte optische Farbe und den vorbestimmten geforderten Mustereffekt und die vorbestimmten physikalischen Stoffeigenschaften ohne optisch sichtbare Veränderungen bei der geforderten optischen Farbe und dem geforderten Mustereffekt aufweist; und
• wobei das Garn aus den n Garnen und das Garn aus den m Garnen so ausgewählt sind, dass sie die vorbestimmte optische Farbe und den vorbestimmten Mustereffekt sowie die vorbestimmten Stoffeigenschaften bereitstellen.

In a fourth aspect, the present invention provides a system for producing a multi-layered garment fabric in a predetermined required optical color and having a predetermined required pattern effect and predetermined physical properties from a plurality of yarns in the required optical color and pattern, consisting of a plurality of spun-dyed ones Polymer fibers, the system comprising:

• a knitting assembly for knitting a plurality of yarns for producing a multi-layered knitted fabric in a predetermined required optical color and having a predetermined required pattern effect and predetermined physical properties;
• a creel for carrying a plurality of coils; and
• a plurality of guide members arranged to guide n yarns of n spools to the knitting assembly for knitting with m yarns of m spools, each guide member leading at least one of the n yarns and at least one of the m yarns to the knitting assembly to produce a multi-ply yarn for knitting with another multi-ply yarn by means of the knitting assembly for knitting the multi-ply yarn with the further multi-ply yarn to produce the multi-ply garment fabric, wherein n and m are integers of two or more;
• wherein, in knitting the multi-ply yarn to form a multi-ply garment fabric, the cloth fabric is made to have the predetermined required optical color and the predetermined required pattern effect and the predetermined physical properties without optically visible changes in the required optical color and the required pattern effect; and
• wherein the yarn of the n yarns and the yarn of the m yarns are selected to provide the predetermined optical color and the predetermined pattern effect as well as the predetermined fabric properties.

The system is preferably an industrial automatic knitting machine, and the system is preferably a circular knitting machine.

• eine Maschenware aus mehreren mehrlagigen Garnen, die jeweils aus mindestens zwei Garnen bestehen, wobei jeder mehrlagige Garn aus einer Vielzahl von n Garnen und einer weiteren Vielzahl von m Garnen hergestellt ist,
• wobei die Denier-Gesamtzahl der n Garne einer ersten Denier-Zahl (D₁) entspricht; und m Garne, wobei die Gesamtzahl der m Garne einer weiteren Denier-Zahl (D₂) entspricht, wobei die Denier-Zahlen aller Garne des mehrlagigen Garns gemeinsam die geforderte Garn-Denier-Zahl für den gestrickten Stoff bereitstellen;
• wobei jedes Garn aus mehreren farbigen und spinngefärbten Fasern aus einem Polymermaterial hergestellt ist und die Vielzahl von n Garnen und die Vielzahl von m Garnen die vorbestimmte optische Farbe und den vorbestimmten Mustereffekt und die vorbestimmten physikalischen Stoffeigenschaften bereitstellen.

In a fifth aspect, the present invention provides a multi-ply knitted garment fabric in a predetermined required optical color and having a predetermined required pattern effect and predetermined physical properties and without optically visible changes in the required optical color and pattern effect, the apparel fabric comprising :

• a knit fabric comprising a plurality of multi-ply yarns, each consisting of at least two yarns, each multi-ply yarn being made from a plurality of n yarns and a further plurality of m yarns,
• wherein the denier total of the n yarns corresponds to a first denier number (D ₁ ); and m yarns, wherein the total number of m yarns corresponds to another denier number (D ₂ ), the denier numbers of all the yarns of the multi-ply yarn together providing the required yarn denier number for the knitted fabric;
• wherein each yarn is made of a plurality of colored and spun-dyed fibers of a polymer material, and the plurality of n yarns and the plurality of m yarns provide the predetermined optical color and the predetermined pattern effect and the predetermined physical properties.

The first denier number (D ₁ ) and the further denier number (D ₂ ) are preferably in a range of 45 denier to 200 denier.

Each yarn of the plurality of n yarns and each yarn of the plurality of m yarns may preferably consist of a number p of fibers, where p ranges from 40 to 300 and each fiber has a largest cross-sectional diameter in the range of 0.2 μm to 1 , 1 μm has.

The polymeric material from which each yarn is made from the plurality of n yarns and each yarn from the plurality of m yarns is preferably selected from the group comprising polyethylene terephthalate, polyester, acrylic, polyolefin, nylon 6 and nylon 66, and blends thereof ,

The spun-dyed fibers preferably comprise a matting agent in the range of about 0.4 to 1.5 weight percent to impart the required degree of matting to the knitted garment fabric. The matting agent is preferably TiO ₂ .

The plurality of m yarns and the plurality of n yarns have the same yarn size.

All the yarns of the plurality of n yarns may have the same denier number, so that each yarn has a denier number of (D ₁ ) / n, and all the yarns of the further plurality of m yarns have the same denier number, so that each yarn has a denier number of (D ₂ ) / m.

The first denier number (D ₁ ) may correspond to the further denier number (D ₂ ).

The plurality of m yarns and the plurality of n yarns may be made of one and the same polymer material.

The required optical color and the required pattern effect may be a homogeneous color effect, a regular pattern effect or an irregular pattern effect.

The required optical color and the required pattern effect may be a pattern selected from the group consisting of a melange pattern, stripes, jacquard, motifs, and the like.

In a sixth aspect, the present invention provides an article of clothing made from a multi-layer knitted garment fabric according to the fifth aspect.

list of figures

In order to gain a more thorough understanding of the invention set forth above, a more particular description of the invention briefly described above will be given with respect to particular embodiments thereof, which are illustrated in the accompanying drawings. The drawings shown herein may not be to scale, with any reference to dimensions in the drawings or the following description being limited to the disclosed embodiments.

• 1 eine schematische Darstellung einer beispielhaften Ausführungsform eines Spinnfärbeverfahren, das bei der vorliegenden Erfindung durchgeführt wird;
• 2 ein Beispiel für eine Querschnittgeometrie einer Spinndüse zur Verwendung beim Extrudieren der spinngefärbten Fasern gemäß der vorliegenden Erfindung;
• 3a eine schematische Darstellung eines Beispiels für eine Rundstrickmaschine aus dem Stand der Technik, bei der die vorliegende Erfindung implementiert werden kann;
• 3b zu Veranschaulichungszwecken ein weiteres Beispiel einer schematischen Darstellung eines Beispiels für eine Rundstrickmaschine aus dem Stand der Technik, bei der die vorliegende Erfindung implementiert werden kann;
• 3c eine schematische Darstellung einer Strickmaschine aus den obigen 3a und 3b;
• 3d ein Beispiel für die Art und Weise, wie die vorliegende Erfindung bei einer Strickmaschine implementiert werden kann;
• 4a eine fotografische Darstellung eines Beispiels für einen gestrickten, spinngefärbten Stoff, der Barre-Effekte aufweist;
• 4b eine vergrößerte Ansicht des Beispiels für den gestrickten, spinngefärbten Stoff aus 4a, der Barre-Effekte aufweist;
• 4c eine fotografische Darstellung eines Beispiels für einen gestrickten, spinngefärbten Stoff, bei dem Barre-Effekte entsprechend der vorliegenden Erfindung vermieden werden; und
• 4d eine vergrößerte Ansicht des Beispiels des gestrickten, spinngefärbten Stoffs aus 4c, bei dem Barre-Effekte entsprechend der vorliegenden Erfindung vermieden werden.

Any change in these dimensions that enables the present invention to function according to its intended purpose is considered to be within the scope of the present invention. It is thus to be understood that these drawings are merely illustrative of the typical embodiments of the invention and, thus, are not to be considered as limiting the scope of the invention, and the invention will be described and illustrated by the accompanying drawings with additional particularity and additional details. Show:

• 1 a schematic representation of an exemplary embodiment of a spin dyeing process, which is carried out in the present invention;
• 2 an example of a cross-sectional geometry of a spinneret for use in extruding the spun-dyed fibers according to the present invention;
• 3a a schematic representation of an example of a circular knitting machine of the prior art, in which the present invention can be implemented;
• 3b for illustrative purposes, another example of a schematic representation of an example of a prior art circular knitting machine in which the present invention may be implemented;
• 3c a schematic representation of a knitting machine from the above 3a and 3b ;
• 3d an example of how the present invention can be implemented in a knitting machine;
• 4a a photographic representation of an example of a knitted, spun-dyed fabric having Barre effects;
• 4b an enlarged view of the example of the knitted, spun-dyed fabric 4a that has barre effects;
• 4c a photographic representation of an example of a knitted, spun-dyed fabric, are avoided in the barre effects according to the present invention; and
• 4d an enlarged view of the example of the knitted, spun-dyed fabric from 4c in which bar effects according to the present invention are avoided.

Detailed Description of the Preferred Embodiments

The present invention provides a garment fabric and system for producing fibers and yarns for the manufacture of fabrics for use in commercial implementation in the apparel industry.

The present invention further provides fibers and yarns for forming a garment fabric for use in commercial implementation in the apparel industry.

The apparel industry requires that fabrics meet colorfastness, weight, softness, degree of matting or gloss and breathability or wicking requirements for such apparel fabrics to be suitable.

In order to meet the required optical requirements, such fabric for use in clothing must also be free of visually detectable defects, such as bar-effects or "weft-band" effects, in which streaks or lines of a different color are present extend along or across the knitted fabric, are visible to the naked eye, which is unacceptable in the garment industry. There are numerous processes in the field of dyeing and making apparel fabrics to color such fabrics, including the above-mentioned prior art processes.

However, such methods have shortcomings and disadvantages when used for the production of clothing fabrics, such as lack of color fastness, lack of durability and repeatability of color, fading, deterioration by ultraviolet, manufacturing cost, difficult manufacturing process, excessive consumption of Resources such as water, high power and power consumption, long process cycle times, the use of toxic chemicals in processing, and the fact that people involved in manufacturing may be exposed to such toxic chemicals, excessive waste and disposal requirements, and disposal highly toxic and corrosive waste by-products.

Of prime importance in garment manufacture in terms of coloration are the color fastness and repeatability and color fastness properties. Bleaching or changing the color of clothing reduces the longevity of clothing because such effects are considered undesirable by users.

In particular, in industrial applications where longevity of a particular color is required, such as work uniforms or sports uniforms, where a particular color is required and the team members are to wear uniforms of the same color, a lack of color fastness results in being a garment has a limited usage time. Moreover, in cases where a particular color is associated with a brand or color of a uniform, it is important that the garment have a consistent color, thus providing a high degree of repeatability in the manufacture of the color of the materials used for the apparel are to be used, is required.

Materials used in the manufacture of apparel fabrics must have inherent physical properties that result in such materials being applicable to the manufacture of clothing, the specific properties of a fabric from which apparel is made, and its fibers suitable physical properties Properties such as strength, flexibility, denier classification. As such, materials for making apparel fabrics must have suitable physical properties in addition to color fastness and repeatability.

Knitting methods used in the apparel industry must provide a fabric that does not have optical defects and is colorfast without any changes or defects such as bar-effects or "weft-banding" effects.

1. (i) spinngefärbte Fasern zur Bildung von Garn für ein Strickverfahren, das sich zur Anwendung bei der Herstellung eines Bekleidungsstoffs eignet; und
2. (ii) ein Garn und ein Strickverfahren, das einen Bekleidungsstoff bereitstellt, der keine optisch sichtbaren Fehler, wie etwa Barre-Effekte oder „Schussbanden“-Effekte aufweist, so dass sich der Bekleidungsstoff zur Verwendung bei der Herstellung von Bekleidung eignet und die Erwartungen der Industrie hinsichtlich der Stoffe für derartige Bekleidung erfüllt.

To provide such a fabric suitable for use in the manufacture of clothing and meeting the needs of the apparel industry, the present invention provides:

1. (i) spun-dyed fibers to form yarn for a knitting process suitable for use in the manufacture of a garment fabric; and
2. (ii) a yarn and knitting method that provides a garment fabric that does not have optically visible defects, such as bar effects or "weft" effects, so that the garment fabric is suitable for use in the manufacture of clothing and the expectations of the garment fabric Industry in terms of fabrics for such clothing.

Spun-dyed fiber and spun-dyed yarn for use in the manufacture of apparel fabrics in accordance with the present invention have color fastness and repeatability, and avoid the deficiencies associated with the prior art, including the deficiencies noted above, as fibers and yarns are provided. which are dyed during the manufacturing process.

The present invention is accomplished by providing a method and system for making a garment fabric wherein the garment fabric is formed from spun-dyed colored fibers having appropriate physical and dimensional parameters and properties and for producing a garment fabric in a required color for use to be used in clothing.

Accordingly, and in accordance with the present invention, there is provided a method and system for making apparel fabrics in which colored fibers of a suitable size and material properties are made for use in the manufacture of apparel fabrics.

In order to provide a fabric suitable for use as garment, the present invention provides a method and system in which the fibers from which a yarn is made, prior to the manufacture of the yarn from which the fabric is made, and prior to manufacture of the garment fabric are made to have the required color, which is in contrast to the prior art, in which the fiber and / or yarn and / or the fabric for the garment fabric after the manufacture of the fiber and / or the yarn and / or the fabric to be dyed.

By providing fibers which are dyed upon manufacture of the fibers, the fibers are formed to have the required color during the manufacturing process, providing the fibers with a uniform color throughout the thickness of the fiber. This provides monofilaments having excellent color fastness which are resistant to fading by ultraviolet ("UV") effects.

In addition, and most importantly, the use of such a fiber to make a garment for the manufacture of garment fabrics achieves easy repeatability of color between batches.

In accordance with the present invention, a spin dyeing process is used to provide such colored fiber to provide colored fibers having a suitable size for making apparel fabrics.

To use a spin dyeing process to provide a spun-dyed apparel fabric, the inventors of the present invention have implemented a process in which:

(i) new fibers having a low denier in the range of 0.4 to 2.2 denier are prepared for use in producing a yarn suitable for use in the manufacture of a garment fabric according to the present invention.

According to the present invention, the usual denier ranges and fiber diameters used in the present invention as well as the denier number of yarns containing such fibers are shown below: TABLE 1 Size and quantity ranges of fibers and yarns min typical Max fiber 0.4 denier 1 denier 2.2 denier Fiber / filament Diameter 0.2 microns Diameter 0.5 microns Diameter 1.1 microns twine 45 denier 75 denier 200 denier

Unless a monofilament is used in a knitting process which is made in a single-strand yarn dyeing process in accordance with the present invention, yarns are subsequently made into multiple fibers to produce a garment fabric.

Denier "D" yarns and a number "f" of fibers applicable for use in the present invention are, for example, as follows: TABLE 2 Example of the number of fibers per yarn and the denier numbers of the yarn and the fibers Ratio of yarn denier to number of fibers Denier of the fiber 45D / 48f each filament corresponds to 0.9375D 75D / 36f each filament corresponds to 2.08333D 75D / 72f each filament corresponds to 1.04166D 100D / 192f each filament corresponds to 0.5208D 150D / 288f each filament corresponds to 0.5208D.

(ii) The coloring is provided during the spin dyeing process using a masterbatch pigment in which the particle size is suitably sized to produce fibers having such a fine denier number, the masterbatch pigment being in a low nanometer range of 20 nanometers and optionally having a size down to the micrometer range, such as a size of 1 micron for yellow dyes and 2 microns for turquoise dyes. The particle size is usually less than the denier number of the fiber from which the yarn is formed, for example, the size of the masterbatch is about 0.06 microns.

(iii) A polymer material that can be used to make the garment fabric is used.

In accordance with the present invention, synthetic materials suitable for use in the manufacture of colored fibers include polymeric materials such as nylon, polyester, acrylic, and polyolefin, as well as blends thereof.

Further, in order to use a spin dyeing process to provide a spun-dyed apparel fabric, the inventors of the present invention have found that perceptible optical color change of a garment fabric is caused by barre effects or "weft-banding" effects, visually exhibiting a visual change in the fabric color. which is usually a stripe effect that may cause a fabric not to be suitable for use in the apparel industry due to the market's rejection of such materials in color uniformity, where color uniformity is generally a requirement for apparel fabrics represents.

The inventors of the present invention have also discovered parameters that influence the formation of such a barre effect or "shotbanding" effect, and the inventors herein continue to provide a method by which such a barre effect or "weft-banding" effect can be significantly mitigated or reduced to produce a spun-dyed fabric, which is a garment fabric that meets the industrial and commercial requirements for a fabric for the garment industry, and also provides the advantages mentioned above and below the production of spun-dyed fibers and a fabric made from a yarn having such spun-dyed fibers.

Accordingly, the present invention provides a method and system for making a garment fabric made from a yarn composed of spun-dyed fibers and suitable for the manufacture of garments.

EXAMPLE OF A SPINNING DYE PROCESS AND SYSTEM OF THE INVENTION

Regarding 1 is a schematic representation 100 an exemplary embodiment of a spin dyeing process, which is used in the present invention.

step 1 - Mix

It becomes a masterbatch pigment 110 provided having a particle size which is smaller than the denier number of the fibers from which the yarn is formed. A polymer material 120 from which the fibers are to be made, eg polyethylene terephthalate ("PET") for the formation of a nylon fiber, is provided in the form of a chip. Such chips used are usually sized to have a maximum dimension in the range of 2mm to 3mm and are provided in an irregular shape with dimensions of about 3.3mm x 3mm x 2.2mm. In accordance with the present invention, a spin dyeing process has been developed with a masterbatch pigment 110 used with a particle size in the range of 20 nanometers to 4 microns, so that fibers / filaments in a size range of 0.4 to 2.2 denier can be made, so that they are applicable in the manufacture of a substance having properties that suitable for use in the manufacture of clothing. A maximum dye content of 4.2% by weight is usually introduced for use in the present invention.

A mixing device 130 is provided to perform a mixing step and the masterbatch pigment 110 with the polymer material 120 mixed therein until a suitably mixed mixture is present.

In this step, additives can be introduced, such as the introduction of a plasticizer.

To provide a fiber for forming a yarn for the manufacture of a garment fabric having a suitable gloss, a matting agent may also be incorporated into the mixture of the pigment and the PET chip, such as TiO ₂ . For example, about 0.6% by weight of TiO _{2 may} be incorporated to provide a semi-matte apparel fabric and about 1.2% by weight of TiO _{2 may} be incorporated to provide a fully matte finished fabric.

The mixing step is usually carried out at room temperature or at the ambient temperature of the place where the mixing is carried out.

Step 2 - Melting

After the mixing step 1 becomes a melting step 2 carried out the melting of the mixture of the masterbatch pigment 110 and the polymer material 120 and the above additives at a temperature of about 280 to 290 degrees Celsius within a reaction chamber 140 brought about so that the polymer material 120 , which then due to the masterbatch pigment 110 is colored, in a suitable molten and viscous form.

Stirring by mechanical means, such as a stirring mechanism, is preferably used to provide additional uniform distribution and mixing, resulting in a uniformly colored viscous material.

Step 3 - Cool

A cooling step is then carried out, in which the molten mixture is cooled to about 160 degrees Celsius, so that the mixture remains in a viscous state.

Step 4 - Extrude

After the cooling step, the viscous material is then extruded through a plurality of spinnerets consisting of a plurality of openings, the spinnerets having a size corresponding to about 2 to 3 times the required fiber size.

Examples of fiber sizes which can be used in the present invention are mentioned above in Table 1.

In accordance with the present invention, to ensure that the garment fabric has suitable breathability through wicking, the spinnerets have a cross-sectional geometry such that longitudinal recesses or longitudinal folds are formed along the length of the extruded fiber. An example of such a suitable cross-sectional geometry is in 2 shown.

Regarding 2 is an extruded fiber 200 shown having a cross-sectional geometry and a shape that are dependent on the spinneret from which it is extruded.

In the present example, the fiber has 200 a cross-sectional geometry with 4 protrusions 210 , As shown form tabs 210 along with a neighboring protrusion therebetween recesses or folds 220 , The skilled person will understand and recognize that if multiple fibers 200 be wrapped so as below by step 5 described yarn is formed, the seams cause gaps or gaps to be formed in the yarn, which provides a breathability by the wicking effect for a garment knitted from such a yarn.

step 5 - Wrap

To provide the required yarn for subsequent knitting to produce a garment fabric, the extruded fibers are stacked on multiple spools 150 wound to form a yarn, a number of fibers is wound onto each spool.

Examples of the number of fibers wound on a spool to form a required yarn according to the present invention are shown in Table 2 above. A typical number of fibers used to form a yarn according to the present invention comprises 72 fibers.

In the process of winding, the fibers that make up the yarns are usually intertwined by local fusion, resulting in a bond between the fibers that holds the fibers together as a yarn and prevents the yarn from falling apart.

In the process of winding, the fibers are cooled to about 140 degrees Celsius to 150 degrees Celsius.

The wound yarn is a pre-oriented yarn ("POY"), and at this stage of the process it is not suitable for making a garment fabric by knitting.

Depending on the type of yarn to be used, the yarn is then processed so that (A) a filament yarn or (B) a stack yarn is obtained by subsequent processing.

filament yarn

1. (i) Funktionalität;
2. (ii) optischer Eindruck als Garn für die Stoffproduktion; und
3. (iii) Griff- oder Tastattribute, die dazu führen, dass das Garn die geeigneten Tastattribute aufweist, so dass beim Verstricken zu einem Bekleidungsstoff der Stoff die geforderte und für die Bekleidungsindustrie geeignete Textur aufweist.

To provide a filament yarn, after the above step 5 then a step for stretching 160 in which the yarn is stretched, thereby adjusting the size or denier number of the yarn. The stretching step involves a texturizing process to impart features to the yarn and make it suitable for the manufacture of garment fabric, imparting the following attributes to the yarn:

1. (i) functionality;
2. (ii) visual impression as yarn for fabric production; and
3. (iii) Gripping or tactile attributes that result in the yarn having the appropriate tactile attributes such that when knitted into a garment fabric, the fabric has the required texture suitable for the garment industry.

In the texturing process, the yarn may be treated to be a Drawn Textured Yarn ("DTY") or an Air Textured Yarn ("ATY").

In accordance with the embodiments of the present invention, the yarn is preferably a draw-textured yarn comprising a "false twisted" by techniques known in the art so as to give the yarn an elastic attribute as a crimp, as known to those skilled in the art. As is known to the person skilled in the art, friction disks and heat setting can be used in such a method, for example.

Accordingly, the yarn is given the above three attributes in (i), (ii) and (iii), resulting in that it is for knitting garment fabric applied to a spindle 170 is wound, is suitable.

After such processing of the yarn, a garment fabric can be produced by a knitting method.

Stapelgarnbildung

When a staple yarn is needed, the POY yarn becomes by using a cutting process 180 and a spinning process 190 , as used in cotton spinning, cut to length, for example, to a length of 2.5 centimeters.

A yarn having a high "TPI" (Turns Per Inch) may be made by high twisting techniques known to those skilled in the art to provide a yarn having the required properties suitable for the manufacture of a garment fabric ,

It should be noted that while the spin dyeing processes are used for the production of large colored fibers formed from materials such as acrylic, nylon / polyamide and polyester for other technical fields, such use is directed to the production of fibers for use in manufacture is limited by industrial products such as nylon or synthetic ropes, fish and safety nets and the like with limited colors such as navy blue, red and black.

However, the fibers produced in such industries are not suitable for use in the garment fabric industry because the fibers have an excessively large cross-section or excessively large denier so that the fibers are not applicable for use in the manufacture of apparel fabrics are.

In addition, the particle size of pigments used in prior art spin dyeing processes can not be exploited to produce fibers having a size suitable for the manufacture of apparel fabrics that can provide the required color fastness and repeatability of color between batches Offer.

Moreover, such a prior art yarn is not suitable for making a garment fabric because such yarn does not have the required breathability, texture, elastic properties or optical properties.

Example of a spin finish method of the present invention

By way of example, a general comparison between a conventional high temperature dyeing process for polyester and a spin dyeing process for polyester according to the present invention will be described.

With reference to Table 3, the parameters of a conventional high temperature polyester dyeing process and a spin dyeing process are shown.

By way of background, with reference to Table 3, a conventional high temperature polyester dyeing process and its process parameters are described below, wherein the dye employed is a disperse dye and the color depth is a medium color.

In the present example, a 1000 kg batch and fabric (eg, fabric) in a 1: 8 dark color ratio using a high temperature stainer with 4 tubes are used, each tube having a load of about 250 kg has.

1. 1. es wird ein Vorbehandlungsprozess für die Entfernung von Stricköl und Schmutz während des Strickvorgangs angewandt, wie durch das 1. Bad dargestellt ist;
2. 2. es wird ein Färbevorgang angewandt, bei dem es sich um einen färbenden Prozess zum Aufbringen einer Vordispersion handelt, die ein aufgelöster Dispersionsfarbstoff mit einem pH und einer Temperatur-Färbekurve ist, wird durch das 2. Bad dargestellt;
3. 3. anschließend wird ein Auswaschprozess angewandt, der durch das 3. und das 4. Bad dargestellt ist;
4. 4. anschließend wird eine reduktive Nachreinigung angewandt, um den nicht fixierten Farbstoff unter einer Reduktionsbedingung in einem stark alkalischen Bad zu entfernen, wie durch das 5.Bad dargestellt ist;
5. 5. anschließend wird ein Auswaschprozess angewandt, wie durch das 6. und das 7. Bad dargestellt ist,
6. 6. anschließend wird ein Neutralisierungsschritt angewandt, der die Verwendung einer Säure für die Entfernung des konzentrierten Alkalis umfasst, um einen hautfreundlichen pH-Wert zu bieten, wie durch das 8. Bad dargestellt ist; und
7. 7. anschließend wird ein Weichmachungsschritt angewandt, bei dem ein Weichmacher aufgebracht wird, wie durch das 9. Bad dargestellt ist.

A summary of the process parameters used for the two processes is shown in Table 3, with the steps of the workflow being the following, showing the subdivisions Duration, Chemicals Used, and Quantities, Temperatures, and Water Volumes:

1. 1. a pre-treatment process is used for the removal of knitting oil and dirt during the knitting operation, as represented by the 1st bath;
2. 2. a dyeing process is used, which is a coloring process for applying a predispersion, which is a dissolved disperse dye having a pH and a temperature dyeing curve, is represented by the 2nd bath;
3. 3. Subsequently, a washout process is used, which is represented by the 3rd and the 4th bath;
4. 4. then a post-reductive reductive treatment is used to remove the unfixed dye under a reducing condition in a strongly alkaline bath, as indicated by the 5th bath;
5. 5. then a washout process is applied as shown by the 6th and 7th baths,
6. 6. then apply a neutralization step involving the use of an acid to remove the concentrated alkali to provide a skin-friendly pH, as shown by the 8th bath; and
7. 7. Subsequently, a softening step is used wherein a plasticizer is applied as shown by the ninth bath.

1. 1. es wird ein Spülschritt angewandt, der durch das 1. Bad dargestellt ist bei dem ein Spülschritt angewandt wird, und
2. 2. nach dem Spülschritt wird ein Weichmachungsschritt angewandt, wie durch das 2. Bad dargestellt ist.

Still referring to Table 3, the steps of a spin dyeing process and process parameters for a spun dyed polyester are shown, with the procedure and steps being as follows:

1. 1. It is applied a rinsing step, which is represented by the 1st bath in which a rinsing step is applied, and
2. 2. After the rinsing step, a softening step is used, as shown by the 2nd bath.

By comparison, it can be seen that in the conventional high-temperature dyeing process for polyester compared to processing a spun-dyed material with only 2 steps 9 Bath steps are used and significantly more water is used at higher temperatures.

Conventional high temperature polyester dyeing vs. Spun-dyed polyester (based on a ratio of 1000 kg batch in a dyeing liquor to the product of 1: 8, dark color Conventional high temperature dyeing Bath no. function Duration (min) used chemical amount temperature Amount of water (I) 1 do the washing up 30 Cleaning agent 0.5 g / l 4 kg 50 C 8000 Second To dye 240 Dyes + pH buffer - 132 C 8000 Third wash out 20 - - room 8000 4th wash out 20 - - room 8000 5th Reductive post-cleaning 30 Etching agent + hydros each 32 kg 80 C 8000 6th wash out 30 - - room 8000 7th wash out 30 - - room 8000 8th. neutralization 30 Acetic acid 0.5 cc / l 4 kg room 8000 9th softening 30 Plasticizer 4% 40 kg 50 C 8000 Total consumption time 460 Total consumption of water 72000 Corresponds to: 72 liters / kq of fabric Table 3 - Process parameters and process steps spin dyeing Bath no. function Duration (min) used chemical amount temperature Amount of water (I) 1. do the washing up 30 Cleaning agent 0.5 g / l 4 kg 50 C 8000 Second softening 30 Plasticizer 4% 40 kg 50 C 8000 Total consumption time 60 Total consumption of water 16000 Corresponds to: 16 liters / kg of fabric

With reference to Table 4 below, a parameter comparison between a conventional high temperature polyester dyeing process and the spin dyeing process is as follows:

Table 4 - Summary of the advantages of the present invention Environmental benefits of spun dyed polyester • Water savings of 77% or 56 liters per 1 kg of polyester • Reduced power consumption by 168 kW per 1 ton of polyester: Main pump at 24k W / h Winch at 4 kW / h Total 28 kW / hx 6 hours reduced cycle time = 168 kW • Reduced energy consumption (steam) by 5,082,880 KJ per 1 ton of polyester dyeing temperature at 132-30 (room temperature) = 102 degrees Celsius Reductive post-treatment (wastewater treatment plant) 80 - 30 = 50 degrees Celsius

1. (i) auf der Basis von 9 Millionen kg Stoff bei 56 Liter Wasser pro kg Stoff wird eine Einsparung von Wasser von etwa 504,000,000 Liter pro Jahr erreicht;
2. (ii) eine Verringerung des Stromverbrauchs um 1,512,000 kW pro Jahr bei 168 kW pro Tonne x 9000 Tonnen
3. (iii) eine Verringerung des Energieverbrauchs durch Dampf um 45,75 Milliarden KJ, insgesamt 5,082,880 kJ pro Tonne x 9000 Tonnen
4. (iv) keinerlei Ausstoß von Chemikalien, da bei der vorliegenden Erfindung die einzigen verwendeten Chemikalien ein Weichmacher und ein Reinigungsmittel sind und die vorliegende Erfindung keinen toxischen Schlamm erzeugt und keinerlei Chemikalien an die Umwelt abgegeben werden.

By way of example, for a factory producing 36 million articles of clothing per year, by employing the present invention to use garments, the following environmental and economic benefits arise compared to the usual and currently used in the art high temperature dyeing of polyester:

1. (i) on the basis of 9 million kg of substance with 56 liters of water per kg of substance, a saving of water of about 504,000,000 liters per year is achieved;
2. (ii) a reduction in electricity consumption by 1,512,000 kW per year at 168 kW per tonne x 9,000 tonnes
3. (iii) a reduction of steam energy consumption by 45.75 billion KJ, totaling 5.082.880 kJ per tonne x 9000 tonnes
4. (iv) no emission of chemicals, since in the present invention the only chemicals used are a plasticizer and a cleaning agent and the present invention does not produce toxic sludge and does not release any chemicals to the environment.

ADVANTAGES OF THE SPINNING TREATMENT PROCESS OF THE PRESENT INVENTION

As shown in Tables 3 and 4 and explained above, the method and system according to the present invention offer distinct advantages over the prior art method.

1. (a) Farbechtheit. Stabilität und Wiederholbarkeit
   • - Bereitstellung einer Faser mit einer hohen Farbechtheit, die sich für die Verwendung in Textilstoffen eignet
   • - Bereitstellung einer Faser mit einer hohen Farbstabilität und einer Beständigkeit gegenüber einer Schädigung durch UV, die sich für die Verwendung in Textilstoffen eignet
   • - Bereitstellung eines Verfahrens zum Bereitstellen einer Faser, die sich für die Verwendung in Textilstoffen eignet, wobei die Wiederholbarkeit der Faserfarbe zwischen Produktionschargen leicht wiederholbar ist
2. (b) Kosteneinsparung / wirtschaftliche Vorteile:
   • - deutliche Reduzierung des Wasserverbrauchs
   • - deutliche Reduzierung des Stromverbrauchs im Vergleich zum Verbrauch im Stand der Technik für Pumpen, Winden und dergleichen sowie eine reduzierte Zykluszeit, wodurch weniger Strom erforderlich ist
   • - deutliche Reduzierung des Energieverbrauchs aufgrund niedrigerer thermischer Anforderungen und eines geringeren Bedarfs an Dampf
3. (c) Umweltbezogene Vorteile:
   • - aufgrund der geringeren Anzahl an Zyklen und der erhöhten Temperaturen und aufgrund der Vermeidung eines Hochtemperatur-Färbezyklus und der Verkürzung des Reinigungszyklus werden von dem System der vorliegenden Erfindung deutlich weniger Wärmebelastungen an die Umwelt abgegeben.
   • - Vermeidung von toxischen Abfällen und des Freisetzens derartiger Abfälle in die Umwelt
4. (d) OHS-Attribute (engl. Occupational Health and Safetv) (Arbeitsschutz-Attribute)
   • - keine Verwendung von toxischen Chemikalien und somit eine geringere Wahrscheinlichkeit, dass Produktionsarbeiter und die Umwelt toxischen Chemikalien ausgesetzt sind
   • - niedrigere Umgebungstemperaturen am Arbeitsplatz, was bessere Arbeitsbedingungen schafft

Such advantages include:

1. (a) color fastness. Stability and repeatability
   • - Providing a high color fastness fiber suitable for use in textiles
   • - Providing a fiber with high color stability and resistance to UV damage suitable for use in fabrics
   • To provide a method of providing a fiber suitable for use in fabrics wherein the repeatability of the fiber color between production batches is readily repeatable
2. (b) Cost Savings / Economic Benefits:
   • - significant reduction of water consumption
   • - Significant reduction in power consumption compared to the prior art consumption of pumps, winches and the like and a reduced cycle time, whereby less power is required
   • - Significant reduction in energy consumption due to lower thermal requirements and lower demand for steam
3. (c) Environmental benefits:
   • due to the reduced number of cycles and elevated temperatures and due to the avoidance of a high temperature dyeing cycle and the shortening of the cleaning cycle, the system of the present invention releases significantly less heat load to the environment.
   • - Avoidance of toxic waste and the release of such waste into the environment
4. (d) OHS attributes (Occupational Health and Safetv) (occupational health and safety attributes)
   • - no use of toxic chemicals and thus less chance of production workers and the environment being exposed to toxic chemicals
   • - lower ambient temperatures in the workplace, which creates better working conditions

Production and production of a knitted garment fabric according to the present invention

As mentioned above, in addition to the breathability, texture and elastic properties required of a garment fabric, it is required that such garment fabric be free from optical defects.

Such common optical defects include bar-effects or "weft-banding" effects which may be introduced during the knitting process provided by the present invention to form a spun-dyed yarn fabric to provide a uniform color to garment fabrics for the apparel industry.

1. (i) periodische Änderung der Feinheit des Schussgarns, die sich aus der Exzentrizität der Rollen oder mechanischen Defekten in den Vorspinnprozessen ergeben
2. (ii) Mischen von Schussgarnen mit unterschiedlichen Feinheiten, unterschiedlichem Verdrehungsgrad, unterschiedlichen Ausrichtungen beim Zwirnen und unterschiedlichen Glanzgraden, insbesondere bei Filamenten
3. (iii) Vermischen von gesponnenen gemischten Garnen, die aus synthetischen Fasern mit unterschiedlichen Mischproportionen hergestellt sind
4. (iv) Herstellung eines Fehlers in Filamenten, wie etwa eine Schwankung der Denier-Zahl
5. (v) unterschiedliche Feinheiten bei den Schussgarnen
6. (vi) übermäßiges Strecken bei den Schussgarn-Zuführgarnkörpern, insbesondere bei Filamenten
7. (vii) Schwankung der Schussdichte und unterschiedliche Zwirne
8. (viii) Farbe oder Farbton benachbarter Gruppen von Schussgarnen
9. (ix) Unterschiede bei der Mischzusammensetzung oder den verwendeten Baumwollstoffen.

There are many causes of the Barre effect in the pulp industry, including:

1. (i) periodic change in the fineness of the weft yarn resulting from the eccentricity of the rolls or mechanical defects in the roving processes
2. (ii) blending weft yarns having different fineness, degree of twist, different twisting directions and different gloss levels, especially filaments
3. (iii) blending of spun mixed yarns made of synthetic fibers having different mixing proportions
4. (iv) Making a defect in filaments, such as a fluctuation in denier number
5. (v) different finenesses in weft yarns
6. (vi) excessive stretching in weft yarn supply bodies, particularly filaments
7. (vii) variation in weft density and different twist
8. (viii) Color or color of adjacent groups of weft yarns
9. (ix) differences in the blending composition or cotton fabrics used.

It has been found that a knit fabric using a yarn as described above according to the present invention has a barre effect.

One method in which the barre effect of knits can be somewhat mitigated is to provide a color evaluation method and a knit adjustment method. As known to those skilled in the art, an industrial knitting process involves interweaving multiple yarns which are inserted in a corresponding number of spools around which the yarns are wound. In the pulp industry numerous arrangements are used, for example 102 or 114 bobbins holding the corresponding yarn to be knitted.

To evaluate the color, a knitted sample is formed from each bobbin, and then the color parameters of the fabric are evaluated, then, depending on the color rating of a particular bobbin, assigned a specific position on the creel, which can be used to formulate a barre. To mask or overcome an effect or a banding effect from a resulting fabric which may be caused by a small change in the denier number of the fibers and other factors contributing thereto, including those mentioned above.

In such a prior art method, there are numerous color parameters that can be evaluated, either by eye or by electronic image capture and subsequent computer analysis. Such parameters include darkness, brightness, hue, color intensity, or the like.

1. (i) ein schlauchförmiges Abstricken in Form eines schlauchförmigen strumpfartigen Artikels, wobei der Strumpf für jede Spule mit einem vorbestimmten Durchmesser hergestellt wird,
2. (ii) ein Prüfstreifen mit einer vorbestimmten Größe wird in den Strumpf eingeführt und der Strumpf darüber gespannt,
3. (iii) die Farbparameter des Strumpfs werden bewertet, wobei die Farbparameter über eine vorbestimmte Messlänge bewertet werden, und
4. (iv) in Abhängigkeit von den bewerteten Farbeigenschaften wird eine Spule an einer Stelle des Spulengatters des Strickmaschinensystems angeordnet, um den Barre-Effekt zu reduzieren.

According to the prior art, the following method can be used:

1. (i) a tubular knit in the form of a tubular stocking-like article wherein the stocking is made for each coil having a predetermined diameter,
2. (ii) a test strip of a predetermined size is inserted into the stocking and the stocking stretched over it,
3. (iii) the color parameters of the stocking are evaluated, the color parameters being evaluated over a predetermined measurement length, and
4. (iv) depending on the evaluated color characteristics, a bobbin is placed at a location of the creel of the knitting machine system to reduce the barre effect.

For example, for a tubular sample that is stretched over a test strip, the strip will have a required color, such as a dark color or a white color, depending on the color of the evaluated fabric. For example, an optical evaluation may be performed when the fabric is "dark" or "light", with a reel position on a creel selected and changed accordingly.

To mask the Barre effect, numerous adjustments can be made and coils adjusted, for example, as a dark / light / dark / light change criterion, or as a dark / dark / light / light change criterion or as dark / dark / light / dark / dark / light-criterion.

Although such a method reduces the Barre effect to some extent, however, the inventors of the present invention have found that in a knitted garment fabric made from spun-dyed yarn according to the present invention, the Barre effect is only about 60% 70% of cases can be sufficiently reduced.

In the above technique, it takes about half a day to evaluate the yarn from the bobbins and obtain an arrangement of the bobbins on the creel to eliminate a barre effect. Due to a success rate of about 60% to 70%, once a necking process has begun and the existence of a barre effect has been established, this has a very detrimental effect in that large run lengths of the fabric must be discarded if the barre effect in the Act exists.

In contrast to a non-spun-dyed fabric from the prior art, which can be slightly reworked in the presence of a Barre effect, only disposal is possible in spun-dyed knitted fabrics.

1. (i) übermäßige Einrichtzeiten für die anfängliche Spuleneinstellung;
2. (ii) es ist möglicherweise eine weitere Verstellung und Umordnung der Spulen erforderlich, nachdem die Produktion begonnen hat;
3. (iii) es sind speziell ausgebildete Fachkräfte zur Ausführung einer derartigen Spulenumordnungstechnik erforderlich;
4. (iv) bei einer derartigen Technik gibt es aufgrund der menschlichen Bestimmung der Spulenanordnung aufgrund der Erfahrung eine Inkonsistenz, wobei die menschliche Bewertung die Wiederholbarkeit beeinträchtigt;
5. (v) wenn in einer Produktionsserie ein Barre-Effekt auftritt, ist es erforderlich, dass Fachkräfte anwesend sind, um Gegenmaßnahmen durchzuführen, was in der Bekleidungsindustrie nicht immer möglich ist, da Strickdurchläufe häu24 Stunden pro Tag durchgeführt werden und entsprechend ausgebildetes Personal nicht immer 24 Stunden am Tag vor Ort in Bereitschaft steht;
6. (vi) die Anwendung einer derartigen Technik basiert auf eine menschliche Beurteilung zwischen Produktionsabläufen beim Stricken des Bekleidungsstoffs, was zu einer Inkonsistenz zwischen den Läufen in Abhängigkeit von der Einheitlichkeit einer Person oder zwischen unterschiedlichen Personen führt;
7. (vii) weitere Parameter, wie etwa die Garnspannung, kann auch den Barre-Effekt beeinflussen, und somit kann es bei unterschiedlichen Strickmaschinen unterschiedliche Anforderungen hinsichtlich des Einrichtens und der Anordnung der Spulen geben;
8. (viii) Parameter außerhalb der Kontrolle der Bedienpersonen der Strickmaschine können die Ergebnisse der Verringerung des Barre-Effekts beeinträchtigen und darüber hinaus zu einem unerwarteten Barre-Effekt führen, der nur schwer zu korrigieren ist;
9. (ix) die Ausfallzeit beim anfänglichen Einrichten der Spulen zur Reduzierung des Barre-Effekts sowie eine Unterbrechung des Strickens für die Korrektur eines Barre-Effekts verursachen erhebliche Betriebskosten;
10. (x) da spinngefärbte Gestricke mit Barre-Effekt nicht korrigiert werden können, entstehen aufgrund der Entsorgung von nicht verwendbaren Stoffen und von Entsorgungskosten hohe finanzielle Verluste.

Accordingly, in the fabric knitting process for spun-dyed yarn, the following disadvantageous and intolerable attributes are present in the prior art:

1. (i) excessive setup times for the initial spool adjustment;
2. (ii) further adjustment and rearrangement of the bobbins may be required after production has commenced;
3. (iii) Specialist skilled workers are required to carry out such a coil reordering technique;
4. (iv) in such a technique, due to human determination of the coil arrangement, there is an inconsistency due to experience, the human evaluation interfering with repeatability;
5. (v) when a barre effect occurs in a production series, it is necessary that skilled workers be present to take countermeasures, which is not always possible in the apparel industry, since knitting passes are common 24 Hours per day, and trained personnel are not always on standby 24 hours a day;
6. (vi) the application of such a technique is based on a human judgment between production processes in the knitting of the garment fabric, resulting in an inconsistency between the runs depending on the uniformity of a person or between different persons;
7. (vii) other parameters, such as the yarn tension, may also affect the Barre effect, and thus, different knitting machines may have different requirements in terms of set-up and arrangement of the coils;
8. (viii) parameters beyond the control of the operators of the knitting machine may affect the results of the reduction of the barre effect and moreover result in an unexpected barre effect which is difficult to correct;
9. (ix) the down time of initially setting the bobbin reduction coils, as well as the interruption of knitting to correct a barre effect, cause significant operating costs;
10. (x) since spun-dyed knitted fabrics with a barre effect can not be corrected, high financial losses occur due to the disposal of unusable materials and disposal costs.

As will be understood by those skilled in the art, a garment fabric having a barre effect is unacceptable and is immediately rejected by the apparel industry and the market.

As will be understood and understood by those skilled in the art, it should be noted that it is economically unprofitable or acceptable in the apparel industry to use a fabric that meets industry requirements with only a 60% to 70% pass rate, as the loss cost and cost Waiting periods may mean that such a process is not economically viable in the garment industry.

Even if a spun-dyed fabric has the above-mentioned advantages in terms of product, economy, environment, occupational safety and manufacturing cost, such a substance with a barre effect, which can not be avoided, thus can not be realized commercially.

Accordingly, the inventors of the present invention have provided a solution to avoid the presence or occurrence of a barre effect on knitted spun-dyed fabrics which overcomes the above drawbacks while providing all the advantages in terms of product, economy, environment, occupational safety and manufacturing cost are.

Thus, the inventors of the present invention have overcome all the deficiencies and obstacles of prior art fabrics and fabrication techniques to provide a commercially viable and effective spun-dyed apparel fabric that can be accepted by the apparel industry.

1. (i) die geeignete erforderliche Bekleidungsstück-Garn-Denier-Zahl für einen Bekleidungsartikel wird bestimmt, wobei es sich um die Denier-Zahl des geforderten Garns handelt, aus dem der Stoff gestrickt wird,
2. (ii) die geforderte Garn-Denier-Zahl wird durch eine ganze Zahl, die zwei oder mehr beträgt, geteilt,
3. (iii) ein mehrlagiges Garn zum Stricken wird durch mindestens zwei Garne bereitgestellt, wobei die Denier-Zahl aller Garne des mehrlagigen Garns gemeinsam die geforderte Garn Denier-Zahl für den Strickvorgang bereitstellen, und
4. (iv) das Stricken wird unter Verwendung derartiger mehrlagiger Garne durchgeführt.

In order to provide such a garment fabric having no barre effect, the present invention provides a method as follows:

1. (i) determining the appropriate garment yarn denier required for an article of clothing, which is the denier number of the required yarn from which the fabric is knit,
2. (ii) the required yarn denier number is divided by an integer which is two or more
3. (iii) a multi-ply yarn for knitting is provided by at least two yarns, the denier number of all the yarns of the multi-ply yarn together providing the required yarn denier number for the knitting process, and
4. (iv) Knitting is performed using such multi-ply yarns.

If the denier total of the yarn for a fabric 150 Denier, for example, specifies the division of 150 denier by two that two 75 denier yarns are to be used as a "multi-ply" yarn. Alternatively, if a yarn of 150 denier is required for the fabric, for example, then three yarns of 50 denier each may be used to form such a "multi-ply" yarn.

The inventors of the present invention have found and pointed out that the above process consistently provides a garment fabric without a barre effect, which consistently provides a garment fabric that is acceptable in the apparel industry market.

1. (i) eine Abgabe zu 100% eines Bekleidungsstoffs ohne Barre-Effekt;
2. (ii) keine spezifischen Farbbewertungsabläufe und Farbbewertungsanalysen vor der Herstellung erforderlich;
3. (iii) keine speziell ausgebildeten Techniker erforderlich;
4. (iv) keine Inkonsistenz aufgrund von menschlichen Fehlern oder menschlicher Subjektivität;
5. (v) keine Belastung durch lange Ausfallzeiten;
6. (vi) keine hohen und übermäßigen Stoffverlustkosten, Produktionszeitverluste und Entsorgungskosten; und
7. (vii) keine Abhängigkeit von einer willkürlichen Einstellung oder von Maschineneigenheiten oder einer Schwankung der Strickmaschinenparameter.

The above method has the following advantages over the prior art method of reducing the barre effect described above:

1. (i) 100% of a garment fabric without Barre effect;
2. (ii) no specific color assessment procedures and color assessment analyzes required prior to manufacture;
3. (iii) no specially trained technicians required;
4. (iv) no inconsistency due to human error or human subjectivity;
5. (v) not burdened by long downtime;
6. (vi) no high and excessive material loss costs, lost production time and disposal costs; and
7. (vii) no dependence on arbitrary setting or machine characteristics or variation of knitting machine parameters.

Regarding 3a is a schematic representation of an example of a circular knitting machine 300 from the prior art, in which the present invention can be implemented. In such a knitting machine 300 There are several coils 310 , usually 102 or 114 bobbins, which is a yarn 320 included and for weaving a fabric 340 standing on a fabric roll 350 lies on a creel 330 are held.

Although this is not shown in the present diagram, the person skilled in the art is aware that in a circular knitting machine 300 as shown in the present example, which can move a plurality of coils circumferentially. In further and alternative knitting machine arrangements, the spools need not necessarily be circumferentially arranged, rather the yarn may be fed to the knitting machine for insertion into knitting stations by means of a knitting machine for making a knit. Accordingly, from the use of the graph 3a to derive no physical limitations, and there are no physical limitations to derive from, or to introduce or apply thereto any of the inventive concepts of the present invention.

As will also be understood by those skilled in the art, there are numerous methods for implementing the various integers of knitting machines for knitting and subsequently winding a knit fabric, the schematic showing 3a for illustrative purposes only, and the present invention is applied to more complex knitting machine arrangements than in FIG 3a can be implemented explained.

As in 3a to be seen and known to those skilled in the art becomes a yarn 320 from each coil through one or more guides 360 guided, which may be eyelets, with each yarn 320 from each coil then by a tensioning device 370 which is the correct tension of the yarn 320 for knitting, with each yarn thereafter 320 then the knitting assembly is added, then each yarn 320 for example, with a feeder 380 and a latch needle 390 entangled with another yarn to make a knitted yarn 320 existing fabric 340 provide.

Regarding 3b is another example of a schematic representation of an example of a circular knitting machine 300a For the purpose of illustration, the prior art in which the present invention may be implemented is shown. In such a knitting machine 300a are the multiple coils 310a shown to be circumferentially around the axis of the spools of the knitting machine 300a which also is a yarn 320a included, that of tensioning devices 370a is tense, and the interweaving of a substance 340a on a creel 330a are held. As shown, every yarn becomes 320a from each coil 310 for subsequent knitting of the knitting device or guided there.

Regarding 3c is a schematic representation of a knitting machine used in the prior art 300 shown from above, where it is shown several coils 310 which are circumferentially on a creel 330 are arranged. As shown, each yarn runs 320 from each coil 310 for a subsequent entanglement by a tensioning device 370 , In such a prior art system, for a fabric to be made using a yarn of 150 denier on each spool 310 each yarn used has a denier of 150, and the fabric knitted from such yarn is a cloth of 150 denier.

Regarding 3d For example, an example of how the present invention may be implemented in a knitting machine is shown. The present invention provides multi-ply knitting to eliminate bar effects in a knit garment fabric using the novel spun-dyed yarn provided by the present invention.

As described above, when using a system and arrangement as described with reference to FIG 3c the Barre effect is not so reduced as to meet the optical requirements for a garment fabric made from spun-dyed yarn by prior art methods or methods, but with the present invention, by providing a multi-layered knit garment fabric and a system and method of making such a multi-layer garment fabric, the commercially limiting factor of the Barre effect can be prevented.

The present invention provides a knitting machine and method by which a multi-ply yarn can be knit to form a multi-ply knit garment fabric so that there is no visually discernible barrier effect in the garment.

In order to provide such a multi-ply yarn, the inventors of the present invention have found and proved that by knitting by means of the knitting arrangement of a knitting machine in which a multi-ply yarn is supplied to or guided to the knitting structure, such a fabric without barre effect is provided, which is suitable for the clothing industry.

As with the example 3d According to the present invention, the manner in which the present invention can be implemented in a knitting machine is that of knitting a knitting machine 300d several spun-dyed yarns are fed as a multi-ply yarn. As such, the multi-ply fabric is formed from a knit of multi-ply yarns.

In the present example are after the fixtures 370d several guides or eyelets 375D and, as such, the knitting arrangement is fed with a multi-layer spun-dyed yarn, so that knitted fabric is a multi-layer spun-dyed fabric.

If, as mentioned above, the denier total of the yarn for a fabric 150 Denier, for example, specifies the division of 150 denier by two that two 75 denier yarns are to be used as a "multi-ply" yarn. Alternatively, if a 150 denier yarn is required for the fabric, for example, then three 50 denier yarns may be used to form such a "multi-ply" yarn.

In the present example, a two ply yarn is used, and as such is between two adjacent chucks 375D a guide or eyelet 375D intended. Every coil 31d at the creel 330d held on it carries a yarn on it 320d which has half of the required denier number, from which in the present example the fabric is to be made, the yarn 320d from two tensioners through each guide or eyelet 375D is fed so that two yarns 320d with each half of the required denier number of each guide or eyelet 375D and the knitting arrangement is a multilayer yarn, in the present case a two-ply yarn 325d , is supplied. In the present example, there are twelve coils 310d provided, each a yarn 320 carry, and there are twelve jigs 370d and six guides or eyelets 375D intended.

Thus, every guide or eyelet corresponds 375D the coils 310d of which one yarn 320d is recorded. Since the fabric is defined as a two-ply knit, in the present example, each multi-ply yarn comprises 325d that with another multi-layered yarn 325d entangled, two yarns 320d where each yarn 320d from one of the coils 310d comes. Thus, in the present example, there are half as many guides or eyelets 375D like coils 310d or yarns 320d available. As will be understood by those skilled in the art, the example described above represents a method by which a multi-ply yarn can be fed to the knitting arrangement, with many alternative or other embodiments having the same technical effect as falling within the scope of the invention.

Although the present invention is described above in examples in which it is implemented in a homogeneous color fabric made from a fabric of polymeric material, those skilled in the art will recognize and understand that in such an example, the color of the fibers, the extruded during the spin dyeing process, does not necessarily correspond to the fabric produced. It is to be understood that the fabric has a required or predetermined optical color and a required or predetermined pattern effect as well as predetermined physical properties, and the color of the yarn or fibers making up the yarn is determined based on the desired predetermined optical Color effect of the fabric set. As will be understood, parameters such as the matting of the yarn and the manner in which the knitting operation is carried out also affect the optical color and the pattern effect and the predetermined physical properties of the fabric.

Although various parameters define the final physical properties of a fabric, such as the knit density given in the number of warp / wef per inch, those skilled in the art will understand that the denier number of the yarn is a predominant parameter that determines the density of the knitted fabric.

In other embodiments, the denier totals of the multi-ply yarns do not necessarily have to be identical, and the use of such multi-ply denier denier yarns usually produces a uniform knit with a rough surface. In such an embodiment, where thick and thin yarns are used, a jacquard knit can be obtained.

As will also be understood by those skilled in the art, in other or alternative embodiments, the denier number of the yarns forming the multi-ply yarn for knitting in the present invention need not necessarily be identical. For example, in the embodiments described above, 2 75 denier yarns are used to form a multi-ply yarn for entanglement with another multi-ply yarn. In further embodiments where the required denier number of the multi-ply yarn 150 Denier, but the individual yarns may be 40 denier, 50 denier, and 60 denier, for example, without departing from the scope of the present invention.

Moreover, in the above embodiments, although the yarns are made of one and the same polymeric material, as would be appreciated and understood by one skilled in the art, a multi-ply yarn of one polymeric material may be entangled with another multi-ply yarn of another polymeric material. In this case, coils may be used which carry yarns of different polymer materials. For example, a jacquard knit pattern may be formed.

As will be understood, the yarn that forms the multi-ply yarn for subsequent knitting need not necessarily be the same polymeric material as the other yarn and need not necessarily be the same color as the other yarn.

Moreover, as will be understood by those skilled in the art, in further or alternative embodiments, the multi-ply yarn may have a different color than the other multi-ply yarn with which it is entangled to obtain uniform pattern effects such as mélange, stripes, motifs, and the like become.

Accordingly, and as will be appreciated, the present invention is not limited to homogeneous color knit fabrics wherein different spools can support yarns of different colors. Moreover, the denier number of a multi-ply yarn does not have to correspond to that of another multi-ply yarn with which it is entangled and does not necessarily have to be the same color or consist of the same polymer material. Moreover, the individual yarns, each forming the multi-ply yarn, do not necessarily have to have the same denier and, in some alternative embodiments, need not necessarily be made in the same color or from the same polymeric material.

With the present invention, the implementation of a multi-layer knitting process using yarns formed from spun-dyed fibers avoids the commercially prohibitive Barre effect, which will be described below with reference to FIGS 4a and 4b shown and described.

Referring to 4a is an enlarged photographic representation of a portion of a garment item 400a which was knitted using spun-dyed yarns of spun-dyed fibers formed in accordance with the present invention. However, the knitting method and the knitting arrangement used for the production of the cloth were those of Prior art, with reference to 3c and in which a plurality of bobbins each carry a spun yarn of 150 denier entangled to form a 150 denier single-ply fabric. As shown, the clothing fabric 400a clearly the barre effect on how through the lines 410a characterized by a visually recognizable lighter color. As shown, the barre effect is through the lines 410a characterized in the present example have a periodic spacing of about 40 mm.

An enlarged photographic representation of the Barre effect 4a is in 4b shown, the article of clothing 400b has a barre effect going through the lines 400b with a periodic distance of about 40 mm is visually recognizable.

Although the prior art methods described above with respect to the manner in which the Barre effect can be reduced were carefully followed by the inventors of the present invention, it was not possible to demonstrate the existence of the present invention Barre effect repeatedly eliminated, the elimination of the Barre effect could be achieved only in 60% to 70% of the cases, which, as described above, in principle excludes the applicability of such a method and such a material in the garment industry.

In contrast and as referring to 4c and 4d 3 and 4, an enlarged photographic representation of a portion of a 150 denier garment article knitted from 75 denier two ply yarns is shown, according to a method and system in accordance with the present invention as shown in FIG 3d knitted and the yarn is formed from spun-dyed fibers according to the present invention.

The present invention has shown and proved that the Barre effect is avoided, and with reference to 4c is an enlarged photographic representation of a portion of a garment item 400c which was knitted using the spun-dyed yarns of spun-dyed fibers prepared according to the present invention. However, in the present example, the article of clothing was knitted in accordance with the knitting method and the knit arrangement of the present invention as a multi-layered fabric, which is the article of clothing 400c is a two-ply knit fabric using a series of bobbins each holding a yarn of spun-dyed fibers, the yarns each having a denier of 75, resulting in a fabric of 150 denier.

As is clearly apparent, there is no optically visible barre effect in the article of clothing 400c , wherein the clothing fabric from which the article of clothing 400c manufactured meets the above and below requirements of the clothing industry. It is shown a comparable scale of 40mm, which shows no Barre effect within such a period.

In 4d is an enlarged photographic representation of 4c shown with additional magnification, it is shown in the article of clothing 400d As can be seen clearly, there is no visually recognizable barre effect, the clothing fabric from which the article of clothing 400c manufactured meets the above and below requirements of the clothing industry. It is shown a comparable scale of 40mm, which shows no Barre effect within such a period.

As can be seen, due to the implementation of multi-ply, spun-dyed yarn of the present invention, there is no visually discernible or perceptible barrier effect on the apparel article 400c or 400d where any optically visible Barre effect has been avoided, resulting in a spun-dyed fabric suitable for the garment industry.

The inventors of the present invention have found and proved by careful and repeated experiments and analyzes that the implementation of multi-ply spun yarn of the present invention in a knitting process and system according to the present invention avoids the prior art techniques described above to reduce the barre effect, and thereby provide a garment fabric suitable for the garment industry which meets the above repeatability requirements.

Although the optical evaluation and avoidance of the Barre effect as described above shows that a spun-dyed yarn prepared by the spin dyeing method according to the present invention can be used for knits meeting the stringent requirements of the clothing industry understand that other methods of avoiding the barre effect, which, as determined by the inventors of the present invention is caused by the fluctuation of the fiber and yarn denier and the other parameters mentioned above, are also applicable to the present invention and fall within its scope.

1. (i) Farbechtheit, Stabilität und Wiederholbarkeit,
2. (ii) Kosteneinsparung / wirtschaftliche Vorteile,
3. (iii) umweltbezogene Vorteile und
4. (iv) Arbeitssicherheitsattribute (OHS-Attribute)

The present invention provides a spun-dyed fabric which is suitable for the clothing industry and offers the following advantages over the prior art:

1. (i) color fastness, stability and repeatability,
2. (ii) cost savings / economic benefits,
3. (iii) environmental benefits and
4. (iv) Occupational Safety Attributes (OHS Attributes)

By implementing a process for making novel, appropriately sized fibers for making yarns that can be applied to the performance requirements of a garment fabric, and by using a spin dyeing process that uses masterbatch pigment particles of suitable and sufficiently small particle size provided by the present invention, a novel clothing fabric.

In addition, by determining parameters that cause optical defects that are not suitable for apparel fabrics and by determining a method in which such optical defects are avoided by using a multi-ply, spun-dyed yarn, the present invention has a garment fabric having such functional and visual characteristics that the novel fabric is suitable for the clothing industry.

With regard to the global requirements for fabrics suitable for the garment industry, by eliminating the shortcomings of the prior art and offering advantages which include the advantages mentioned above, the present invention provides a useful technical solution to such deficiencies ,

DEFINITIONS

Clothing fabric is defined as a fabric for making clothing, clothing comprising clothing and garments intended to at least partially cover a person's body, clothing items comprising fashion related, non-fashion and sportswear, such as shirts, T-shirts, tops, Jerseys, pullovers, dresses, skirts, shorts, pants, underwear, coats, jackets, scarves, shawls, swimwear and the like.

The apparel industry is defined as the apparel industry, which includes the manufacture of yarn for the manufacture of apparel, the manufacture of apparel fabrics, the wholesale of apparel, the retail sale of apparel, the supply of apparel, and all intermediate steps.

Apparel industry requirements are defined as strict, uncompromising and relentless to the standards of quality, repeatability, efficiency and cost, with clothing articles and their manufacturers and suppliers who can not consistently meet the standards of the apparel industry not being included in the industry or having no economic position in the industry in the industry.

cellulose fiber

Cellulose is a fibrous material of plant origin and forms the basis of all man-made cellulose fibers. Natural cellulose fibers include cotton, flax, hemp, jute and ramie. Cellulose is a polymeric sugar, polysaccharide, made up of repeating 1-4-8-hydro-glucose units linked together by 8 ether compounds.

fastness

It is the term used in the dyeing of textile materials which denotes the resistance of the paint to fading or washing out.

denier

Yarn Strength Definition Unit, defined as mass in grams per 9000 meters.

emulsion paint

Water-insoluble dyes designed to dye polyester at high temperature to allow penetration of the dye into the fiber.

spin dyeing

The mass dyeing of synthetic fibers by mixing the masterbatch pigments with the synthetic material through spinnerets in air and water, forming a colored thread.

foam dyeing

The application by transporting the dyes through foam instead of water. This application is particularly useful with pile fabrics and bulky fabrics, e.g. Carpet, of interest.

Lab dips

The color formulation on a small scale to optimize the colorant mixing proportions and conditions used as a reference in high volume dyeing.

masterbatch

Solid or liquid additives for coloring plastics that enable a processor to economically dye the crude polymer during the plastic manufacturing process. For spin dyeing polyester, the masterbatch is blended with a polyester chip and melt spun to form the colored yarn.

microfiber

The term to define the strength of a synthetic fiber, where it has been agreed in the marketplace that a yarn count whose fineness is less than or equal to a denier or decitex per yarn is referred to as a microfiber.

micrometer

The unit for expressing the size of a tiny object, where one micrometer equals 10 ^-6 .

oligomer

The short-chain polymer, which decomposes under chemical influences or temperature effects by chain termination.

polyester

A type of synthetic fiber obtained by the reaction of dicarboxylic acids with dihydric alcohols and commonly abbreviated to PET, PETE by the full name polyethylene terephthalate. It was introduced to the market in the 1950s for its outstanding performance in wrinkle freedom. Dupont sells its polyester fiber under the brand names Dacron and Terylene.

Synthetic fibers

They are formed by extruding fiber-forming materials through spinnerets in air and water, forming a thread. Synthetic fibers consist of synthetically produced polymers or small molecules, such as petroleum-based or petrochemicals. These materials are polemized into long, linear chemicals that join adjacent carbon atoms. Different chemical compounds are used to produce different fiber types. Synthetic fibers account for about half of fiber uses, and are used in all fields of fiber and textile technology. Although many classes of synthetic polymer-based fibers have been evaluated as potentially valuable economic products, four of them - nylon, polyester, acrylic, and polyolefin - dominate the market. These four products account for about 98 percent per volume of synthetic fiber production, with polyester alone accounting for 60 percent.

Embodiments:

• Ausführungsform 1. Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Bekleidungsstoffs in einer vorbestimmten geforderten optischen Farbe und mit einem vorbestimmten geforderten Mustereffekt und vorbestimmten physikalischen Stoffeigenschaften, wobei das Verfahren folgende Schritte umfasst:
  1. (i) Bereitstellen einer ersten Vielzahl von n Garnen, wobei die Denier-Gesamtzahl von n Garnen einer ersten Denier-Zahl (D₁) entspricht;
  2. (ii) Bereitstellen mindestens einer weiteren Vielzahl von m Garnen, wobei die Denier-Gesamtzahl von m Garnen einer weiteren Denier-Zahl (D₂) entspricht;
  3. (iii) Bilden von mehreren mehrlagigen Garnen, die jeweils aus mindestens zwei Garnen hergestellt sind, wobei jedes mehrlagige Garn aus einem Garn aus der ersten Vielzahl von n Garnen und aus dem Garn aus einer der weiteren Vielzahlen von m Garnen hergestellt ist und die Denier-Zahlen aller Garne des mehrlagigen Garns gemeinsam die geforderte Garn-Denier-Zahl für ein Strickverfahren bereitstellen; und
  4. (iv) Verstricken des mehrlagigen Garns, das aus der ersten Garnvielzahl hergestellt ist, mit der mindestens einen weiteren Garnvielzahl durch ein Strickverfahren, so dass ein mehrlagiger Bekleidungsstoff gebildet wird, wobei jedes Garn aus mehreren Fasern, die aus einem Polymermaterial hergestellt sind, gebildet ist, wobei die Fasern in einem Spinnfärbeverfahren hergestellt und die Fasern während des Spinnfärbeverfahrens gefärbt werden;
  wobei beim Verstricken des mehrlagigen Garns, das aus der ersten Vielzahl von n Garnen hergestellt ist, mit der mindestens einen weiteren Vielzahl von m Garnen zur Bildung des mehrlagigen Bekleidungsstoffs der Bekleidungsstoff so hergestellt wird, dass er die vorbestimmte geforderte optische Farbe und den vorbestimmten geforderten Mustereffekt ohne optisch sichtbare Veränderungen bei der geforderten optischen Farbe und dem geforderten Mustereffekt aufweist; und
• wobei die erste Vielzahl von n Garnen und die mindestens eine weitere Vielzahl von m Garnen so ausgewählt sind, dass sie die vorbestimmte optische Farbe und den vorbestimmten Mustereffekt sowie die vorbestimmten physikalischen Stoffeigenschaften bereitstellen.
• Ausführungsform 2. Verfahren nach Ausführungsform 1, wobei die erste Denier-Zahl (D₁) und die weitere Denier-Zahl (D₂) in einem Bereich von 45 Denier bis 200 Denier liegen.
• Ausführungsform 3. Verfahren nach Ausführungsform 1 oder Ausführungsform 2, wobei jedes Garn aus der ersten Vielzahl von n Garnen und jedes Garn aus der mindestens einen weiteren Vielzahl von m Garnen aus einer Anzahl p Fasern besteht, wobei p im Bereich von 40 bis 300 liegt und jede Faser einen größten Querschnittdurchmesser im Bereich von 0,2 µm bis 1,1 µm hat.
• Ausführungsform 4. Verfahren nach einer der vorhergehenden Ausführungsformen, wobei das Polymermaterial, aus dem jedes Garn aus der ersten Vielzahl von n Garnen und jedes Garn aus der mindestens einen weiteren Vielzahl von m Garnen hergestellt ist, aus der Gruppe ausgewählt ist, die Polyethylenterephthalat, Polyester, Acryl, Polyolefin, Nylon 6 und Nylon 66 und Mischungen daraus umfasst.
• Ausführungsform 5. Verfahren nach einer der vorhergehenden Ausführungsformen, wobei das bei dem Spinnfärbeverfahren verwendete Polymermaterial eine unregelmäßige Form mit einer maximalen Abmessung im Bereich von 1,5 bis 4 mm hat.
• Ausführungsform 6. Verfahren nach Ausführungsform 5, wobei das Polymermaterial in einer unregelmäßigen Form mit Abmessungen von etwa 3,3 mm x 3 mm x 2,2 mm bereitgestellt wird.
• Ausführungsform 7. Verfahren nach einer der vorhergehenden Ausführungsformen, wobei bei dem Spinnfärbeverfahren ein Masterbatch-Pigment verwendet wird, wobei die Partikelgröße des Masterbatches geringer ist als die Denier-Zahl der Fasern, aus denen das Garn hergestellt ist.
• Ausführungsform 8. Verfahren nach einer der vorhergehenden Ausführungsformen, wobei das Masterbatch-Pigment eine Partikelgröße im Bereich von 20 Nanometer bis etwa 2 Mikrometer hat.
• Ausführungsform 9. Verfahren nach einer der vorhergehenden Ausführungsformen, wobei das Spinnfärbeverfahren das Einbringen eines Weichmachers umfasst, um dem gestrickten Bekleidungsstoff einen weichen Effekt zu verleihen.
• Ausführungsform 10. Verfahren nach einer der vorhergehenden Ausführungsformen, wobei das Spinnfärbeverfahren das Einbringen eines Mattierungsmittels im Bereich von etwa 0,4 bis 1,5 Gew.-% umfasst, um dem gestrickten Bekleidungsstoff den geforderten Grad an Mattierung zu verleihen.
• Ausführungsform 11. Verfahren nach Ausführungsform 10, wobei es sich bei dem Mattierungsmittel um TiO₂ handelt.
• Ausführungsform 12. Verfahren nach einer der vorhergehenden Ausführungsformen, wobei es sich bei dem Strickverfahren um ein industrielles Strickverfahren handelt, das mit einer automatischen Strickmaschine durchgeführt wird.
• Ausführungsform 13. Verfahren nach einer der vorhergehenden Ausführungsformen, wobei das Strickverfahren mit einer Rundstrickmaschine durchgeführt wird.
• Ausführungsform 14. Verfahren nach einer der vorhergehenden Ausführungsformen, wobei die erste Garnvielzahl und die mindestens eine weitere Garnvielzahl die gleiche Garnstärke haben.
• Ausführungsform 15. Verfahren nach einer der vorhergehenden Ausführungsformen, wobei alle Garne aus der ersten Vielzahl von n Garnen die gleiche Denier-Zahl haben, so dass jedes Garn eine Denier-Zahl von (D₁)/n hat, und wobei alle Garne aus der mindestens einen weiteren Vielzahl von m Garnen die gleiche Denier-Zahl haben, so dass jedes Garn eine Denier-Zahl von (D₂)/m hat.
• Ausführungsform 16. Verfahren nach einer der vorhergehenden Ausführungsformen, wobei die erste Denier-Zahl (D₁) der weiteren Denier-Zahl (D₂) entspricht.
• Ausführungsform 17. Verfahren nach einer der vorhergehenden Ausführungsformen, wobei die erste Garnvielzahl und die mindestens eine weitere Garnvielzahl aus ein und demselben Polymermaterial hergestellt sind.
• Ausführungsform 18. Verfahren nach einer der vorhergehenden Ausführungsformen, wobei es sich bei der geforderten optischen Farbe und dem geforderten Mustereffekt um einen homogenen Farbeffekt handelt.
• Ausführungsform 19. Verfahren nach einer der Ausführungsformen 1 bis 17, wobei es sich bei der geforderten optischen Farbe und dem geforderten Mustereffekt um einen regelmäßigen Mustereffekt oder einen unregelmäßigen Mustereffekt handelt.
• Ausführungsform 20. Verfahren nach Ausführungsform 19, wobei es sich bei der geforderten optischen Farbe und dem geforderten Mustereffekt um ein Muster handelt, das aus der Gruppe ausgewählt ist, die ein Melangemuster, Streifen, Jacquard, Motive und dergleichen umfasst.
• Ausführungsform 21. Erfindungsgemäßer Bekleidungsstoff, der gemäß dem Verfahren nach einer der Ausführungsformen 1 bis 20 hergestellt ist.
• Ausführungsform 22. Bekleidungsartikel, der aus einem Bekleidungsstoff hergestellt ist, der gemäß dem Verfahren nach einer der Ausführungsformen 1 bis 20 hergestellt ist.

The method to be used for producing the clothing fabric according to the invention is described in the following embodiments 1 to 20 shown:

• embodiment 1 , A method of producing a garment fabric in a predetermined required optical color and having a predetermined required pattern effect and predetermined physical properties, said method comprising the steps of:
  1. (i) providing a first plurality of n yarns, the denier total of n yarns corresponding to a first denier number (D ₁ );
  2. (ii) providing at least one further plurality of m yarns, the denier total of m yarns corresponding to another denier number (D ₂ );
  3. (iii) forming a plurality of multi-ply yarns each made of at least two yarns, each multi-ply yarn being made of one of the first plurality of n yarns and the yarn of one of the further pluralities of m yarns, and the denier Numbers of all the yarns of the multi-ply yarn together provide the required yarn denier number for a knitting process; and
  4. (iv) knitting the multi-ply yarn made of the first yarn variety with the at least one other yarn variety by a knitting process to form a multi-ply garment fabric, each yarn being formed of a plurality of fibers made of a polymer material wherein the fibers are made in a spin dyeing process and the fibers are dyed during the spin dyeing process;
  wherein when knitting the multi-ply yarn made of the first plurality of n yarns with the at least one further plurality of m yarns to form the multi-ply cloth fabric, the cloth fabric is made to satisfy the predetermined required optical color and the predetermined required pattern effect without optically visible changes in the required optical color and the required pattern effect; and
• wherein the first plurality of n yarns and the at least one further plurality of m yarns are selected to provide the predetermined optical color and the predetermined pattern effect as well as the predetermined physical properties.
• embodiment 2 , Method according to embodiment 1 wherein the first denier number (D ₁ ) and the further denier number (D ₂ ) are in a range of 45 denier to 200 denier.
• embodiment 3 , Method according to embodiment 1 or embodiment 2 wherein each yarn consists of the first plurality of n yarns and each yarn of the at least one further plurality of m yarns consists of a number p fibers, where p ranges from 40 to 300 and each fiber has a maximum cross sectional diameter in the range of 0, 2 μm to 1.1 μm.
• embodiment 4 , The method of any one of the preceding embodiments, wherein the polymeric material from which each yarn of the first plurality of n yarns and each yarn of the at least one other plurality of m yarns is made is selected from the group consisting of polyethylene terephthalate, polyester, acrylic, Polyolefin, nylon 6 and nylon 66 and mixtures thereof.
• embodiment 5 , A method according to any one of the preceding embodiments, wherein the polymeric material used in the spin dyeing process has an irregular shape with a maximum dimension in the range of 1.5 to 4 mm.
• embodiment 6 , Method according to embodiment 5 wherein the polymer material is provided in an irregular shape with dimensions of about 3.3 mm x 3 mm x 2.2 mm.
• embodiment 7 , Method according to one of the preceding embodiments, wherein in the spin dyeing process, a masterbatch pigment is used, wherein the particle size of the masterbatch is less than the denier number of the fibers from which the yarn is made.
• embodiment 8th , The method of any preceding embodiment, wherein the masterbatch pigment has a particle size in the range of 20 nanometers to about 2 micrometers.
• embodiment 9 , A method according to any one of the preceding embodiments, wherein the spin dyeing process comprises incorporating a plasticizing agent to impart a soft effect to the knitted garment fabric.
• embodiment 10 , The method of any one of the preceding embodiments, wherein the spin dyeing process comprises incorporating a matting agent in the range of about 0.4 to 1.5 percent by weight to impart the required degree of dulling to the knitted garment fabric.
• embodiment 11 , Method according to embodiment 10 wherein the matting agent is TiO ₂ .
• embodiment 12 , Method according to one of the preceding embodiments, wherein the knitting method is an industrial knitting method performed with an automatic knitting machine.
• embodiment 13 , Method according to one of the preceding embodiments, wherein the knitting method is performed with a circular knitting machine.
• embodiment 14 , Method according to one of the preceding embodiments, wherein the first yarn variety and the at least one further yarn variety have the same yarn thickness.
• embodiment 15 , Method according to one of the preceding embodiments, wherein all the yarns of the first plurality of n yarns have the same denier number, so that each yarn has a denier number of (D ₁ ) / n, and wherein all the yarns of the at least one other Variety of m yarns have the same denier number, so that each yarn has a denier number of (D ₂ ) / m.
• embodiment 16 , Method according to one of the preceding embodiments, wherein the first denier number (D ₁ ) corresponds to the further denier number (D ₂ ).
• embodiment 17 , Method according to one of the preceding embodiments, wherein the first yarn variety and the at least one further yarn variety are made from one and the same polymer material.
• embodiment 18 , Method according to one of the preceding embodiments, wherein the required optical color and the required pattern effect are a homogeneous color effect.
• embodiment 19 , Method according to one of the embodiments 1 to 17 in which the required optical color and the required pattern effect are a regular pattern effect or an irregular pattern effect.
• embodiment 20 , Method according to embodiment 19 wherein the required optical color and the required pattern effect are a pattern selected from the group consisting of a melange pattern, stripes, jacquard, motifs and the like.
• embodiment 21 , Inventive clothing fabric, which according to the method according to one of the embodiments 1 to 20 is made.
• embodiment 22 , An article of clothing made from a garment fabric made according to the method of any one of the embodiments 1 to 20 is made.

• Ausführungsform 23. Verfahren zur Herstellung eines spinngefärbten Garns, das aus spinngefärbten Fasern besteht, zur Herstellung eines Bekleidungsstoffs in einer vorbestimmten geforderten optischen Farbe und mit einem vorbestimmten geforderten Mustereffekt und vorbestimmten physikalischen Stoffeigenschaften, wobei das Verfahren folgende Schritte umfasst:
  1. (i) Vermischen eines Masterbatch-Farbstoffs in der geforderten Farbe mit einem geschmolzenen Polymermaterial zur Bildung eines geschmolzenen Polymermaterials in der geforderten Farbe;
  2. (ii) Extrudieren des geschmolzenen Polymermaterials durch mehrere Spinndüsen, um mehrere spinngefärbte Fasern in der geforderten Farbe zu bilden, wobei die Spinndüsen eine Größe haben, die etwa dem 2 bis 3-fachen der geforderten Größe für die Fasern, aus denen ein Garn herzustellen ist, entspricht; und
  3. (iii) Aufwickeln von mehreren Fasern zur Bildung eines spinngefärbten Garns für die spätere Herstellung eines Bekleidungsstoffs.
• Ausführungsform 24. Verfahren nach Ausführungsform 23, wobei das Garn eine Denier-Zahl in einem Bereich von 45 Denier bis 200 Denier hat.
• Ausführungsform 25. Verfahren nach Ausführungsform 23 oder Ausführungsform 24, wobei jedes Garn aus einer Faseranzahl im Bereich von 40 bis 300 besteht.
• Ausführungsform 26. Verfahren nach einer der Ausführungsformen 23 bis 25, wobei jede Faser des Garns einen größten Querschnittdurchmesser im Bereich von 0,2 µm bis 1,1 µm hat.
• Ausführungsform 27. Verfahren nach einer der Ausführungsformen 23 bis 26, wobei das Polymermaterial aus Materialien aus der Gruppe ausgewählt ist, die Polyethylenterephthalat, Polyester, Acryl, Polyolefin, Nylon 6 und Nylon 66 und Mischungen daraus umfasst.
• Ausführungsform 28. Verfahren nach einer der Ausführungsformen 23 bis 27, wobei das zur Bildung des geschmolzenen Polymermaterials verwendete Polymermaterial in einer unregelmäßigen Form mit einer maximalen Abmessung im Bereich von 1,5 bis 4 mm bereitgestellt wird.
• Ausführungsform 29. Verfahren nach Ausführungsformen 28, wobei das Polymermaterial in einer unregelmäßigen Form mit Abmessungen von etwa 3,3 mm x 3 mm x 2,2 mm bereitgestellt wird.
• Ausführungsform 30. Verfahren nach einer der Ausführungsformen 23 bis 29, wobei das Masterbatch-Pigment eine Partikelgröße hat, die geringer ist als die Denier-Zahl der Fasern, aus denen das Garn hergestellt ist.
• Ausführungsform 31. Verfahren nach einer der Ausführungsformen 23 bis 30, wobei das Masterbatch-Pigment eine Partikelgröße im Bereich von 20 Nanometer bis etwa 2 Mikrometer hat.
• Ausführungsform 32. Verfahren nach einer der Ausführungsformen 23 bis 31, das ferner einen Schritt umfasst, bei dem ein Weichmacher in das geschmolzene Polymermaterial eingebracht wird, um dem gestrickten Bekleidungsstoff vordem Extrudieren des geschmolzenen Polymermaterials einen weichen Effekt zu verleihen.
• Ausführungsform 33. Verfahren nach einer der Ausführungsformen 23 bis 32, das ferner einen Schritt umfasst, bei dem ein Mattierungsmittel im Bereich von etwa 0,4 bis 1,5 Gew.-% in das geschmolzene Polymermaterial eingebracht wird, um dem gestrickten Bekleidungsstoff vor dem Extrudieren des geschmolzenen Polymermaterials den geforderten Grad an Mattierung zu verleihen.
• Ausführungsform 34. Verfahren nach Ausführungsform 33, wobei es sich bei dem Mattierungsmittel um TiO₂ handelt.
• Ausführungsform 35. System zur Herstellung eines mehrlagigen Bekleidungsstoffs in einer vorbestimmten geforderten optischen Farbe und mit einem vorbestimmten geforderten Mustereffekt und vorbestimmten physikalischen Stoffeigenschaften aus mehreren Garnen in der geforderten optischen Farbe und mit dem geforderten Muster, die aus mehreren spinngefärbten Polymerfasern hergestellt sind, wobei das System Folgendes aufweist:
  • eine Strickbaugruppe zum Stricken von mehreren Garnen für die Herstellung eines mehrlagigen gestrickten Bekleidungsstoffs in einer vorbestimmten geforderten optischen Farbe und mit einem vorbestimmten geforderten Mustereffekt und vorbestimmten physikalischen Stoffeigenschaften;
  • ein Spulengatter zum Tragen von mehreren Spulen; und
  • mehrere Führungselemente, die zur Führung von n Garnen von n Spulen zur Strickbaugruppe zum Verstricken mit m Garnen von m Spulen angeordnet sind,
• wobei jedes Führungselement mindestens eines der n Garne und mindestens eines der m Garne zur Strickbaugruppe führt für die Herstellung eines mehrlagigen Garns zum Verstricken mit einem weiteren mehrlagigen Garn mittels der Strickbaugruppe und zum Verstricken des mehrlagigen Garns mit dem weiteren mehrlagigen Garn zur Herstellung des mehrlagigen Bekleidungsstoffs, wobei n und m ganze Zahlen von zwei oder mehr sind;
• wobei beim Stricken des mehrlagigen Garns zur Bildung eines mehrlagigen Bekleidungsstoffs der Bekleidungsstoff so hergestellt wird, dass er die vorbestimmte geforderte optische Farbe und den vorbestimmten geforderten Mustereffekt und die vorbestimmten physikalischen Stoffeigenschaften ohne optisch sichtbare Veränderungen bei der geforderten optischen Farbe und dem geforderten Mustereffekt aufweist; und
• wobei das Garn aus den n Garnen und das Garn aus den m Garnen so ausgewählt sind, dass sie die vorbestimmte optische Farbe und den vorbestimmten Mustereffekt sowie die vorbestimmten Stoffeigenschaften bereitstellen.
• Ausführungsform 36. System nach Ausführungsform 35, wobei es sich bei dem System um eine industrielle automatische Strickmaschine handelt.
• Ausführungsform 37. System nach Ausführungsform 35 oder Ausführungsform 36, wobei es sich bei dem System um eine Rundstrickmaschine handelt.

The method to be used for producing the spun-dyed yarn according to the invention is described in the following embodiments 23 to 34 shown:

• embodiment 23 , A process for producing a spun-dyed yarn consisting of spun-dyed fibers for producing a garment fabric in a predetermined required optical color and having a predetermined required pattern effect and predetermined physical properties, the process comprising the steps of:
  1. (i) mixing a masterbatch dye in the required color with a molten polymer material to form a molten polymeric material in the required color;
  2. (ii) extruding the molten polymer material through a plurality of spinnerets to form a plurality of spun-dyed fibers of the required color, the spinnerets having a size about 2 to 3 times the required size for the fibers from which a yarn is to be made , corresponds; and
  3. (iii) winding several fibers to form a spun-dyed yarn for later manufacture of a garment fabric.
• embodiment 24 , Method according to embodiment 23 wherein the yarn has a denier in a range of 45 denier to 200 denier.
• embodiment 25 , Method according to embodiment 23 or embodiment 24 wherein each yarn consists of a number of fibers in the range of 40 to 300.
• embodiment 26 , Method according to one of the embodiments 23 to 25 wherein each fiber of the yarn has a largest cross-sectional diameter in the range of 0.2 μm to 1.1 μm.
• embodiment 27 , Method according to one of the embodiments 23 to 26 wherein the polymeric material is selected from materials selected from the group consisting of polyethylene terephthalate, polyester, acrylic, polyolefin, nylon 6 and nylon 66 and mixtures thereof.
• embodiment 28 , Method according to one of the embodiments 23 to 27 wherein the polymeric material used to form the molten polymeric material is provided in an irregular shape having a maximum dimension in the range of 1.5 to 4 mm.
• embodiment 29 , Method according to embodiments 28 wherein the polymer material is provided in an irregular shape with dimensions of about 3.3 mm x 3 mm x 2.2 mm.
• embodiment 30 , Method according to one of the embodiments 23 to 29 wherein the masterbatch pigment has a particle size that is less than the denier number of the fibers from which the yarn is made.
• embodiment 31 , Method according to one of the embodiments 23 to 30 wherein the masterbatch pigment has a particle size in the range of 20 nanometers to about 2 microns.
• embodiment 32 , Method according to one of the embodiments 23 to 31 further comprising a step of introducing a plasticizer into the molten polymeric material to impart a soft effect to the knitted garment fabric prior to extruding the molten polymeric material.
• embodiment 33 , Method according to one of the embodiments 23 to 32 further comprising a step of introducing a matting agent in the range of about 0.4 to 1.5 weight percent into the molten polymeric material to impart the required degree of matting to the knitted garment fabric prior to extruding the molten polymeric material ,
• embodiment 34 , Method according to embodiment 33 wherein the matting agent is TiO ₂ .
• embodiment 35 , A system for producing a multi-layered garment fabric in a predetermined required optical color and having a predetermined required pattern effect and predetermined physical properties from a plurality of yarns in the required optical color and pattern, made from a plurality of spun-dyed polymer fibers, the system comprising:
  • a knitting assembly for knitting a plurality of yarns for producing a multi-layered knitted fabric in a predetermined required optical color and having a predetermined required pattern effect and predetermined physical properties;
  • a creel for carrying a plurality of coils; and
  • a plurality of guide elements arranged to guide n yarns of n spools to the knitting assembly for entanglement with m yarns of m spools,
• wherein each guide member guides at least one of the n yarns and at least one of the m yarns to the knitting assembly for producing a multi-ply yarn for knitting with another multi-ply yarn by means of the knitting assembly and knitting the multi-ply yarn with the further multi-ply yarn to produce the multi-ply cloth fabric; where n and m are integers of two or more;
• wherein, in knitting the multi-ply yarn to form a multi-ply garment fabric, the cloth fabric is made to have the predetermined required optical color and the predetermined required pattern effect and the predetermined physical properties without optically visible changes in the required optical color and the required pattern effect; and
• wherein the yarn of the n yarns and the yarn of the m yarns are selected to provide the predetermined optical color and the predetermined pattern effect as well as the predetermined fabric properties.
• embodiment 36 , System according to embodiment 35 , where the system is an industrial automatic knitting machine.
• embodiment 37 , System according to embodiment 35 or embodiment 36 , where the system is a circular knitting machine.

Claims (50)

A garment fabric in a predetermined required optical color and having a predetermined required pattern effect and predetermined physical properties, wherein the garment fabric is made according to the following steps: (i) providing a first plurality of n yarns, the denier total of n yarns of a first denier Number (D ₁ ) corresponds to; (ii) providing at least one further plurality of m yarns, the denier total of m yarns corresponding to another denier number (D ₂ ); (iii) forming a plurality of multi-ply yarns, wherein each multi-ply yarn is made of at least two yarns, each multi-ply yarn being made of one of the first plurality of n yarns and the yarn of one of the further pluralities of m yarns; Denier numbers of all the yarns of the multi-ply yarn together provide the required yarn denier number for a knitting process; and (iv) knitting the multi-ply yarn made of the first yarn variety with the at least one other yarn variety by a knitting process to form a multi-ply garment fabric, each yarn being formed of a plurality of fibers made of a polymer material wherein the fibers are made in a spin dyeing process and the fibers are dyed during the spin dyeing process; wherein when knitting the multi-ply yarn made of the first plurality of n yarns with the at least one further plurality of m yarns to form the multi-ply cloth fabric, the cloth fabric is made to satisfy the predetermined required optical color and the predetermined required pattern effect without optically visible changes in the required optical color and the required pattern effect; and wherein the first plurality of n yarns and the at least one further plurality of m yarns are selected to provide the predetermined optical color and the predetermined pattern effect as well as the predetermined physical properties. Clothing fabric after Claim 1 wherein the first denier number (D ₁ ) and the further denier number (D ₂ ) are in a range of 45 denier to 200 denier. Clothing fabric after Claim 1 or Claim 2 wherein each yarn consists of the first plurality of n yarns and each yarn of the at least one further plurality of m yarns consists of a number p fibers, where p ranges from 40 to 300 and each fiber has a maximum cross sectional diameter in the range of 0, 2 μm to 1.1 μm. The garment fabric of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polymeric material from which each yarn of the first plurality of n yarns and each yarn of the at least one other plurality of m yarns is made is selected from the group consisting of polyethylene terephthalate, polyester, acrylic, Polyolefin, nylon 6 and nylon 66 and mixtures thereof. The garment fabric of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polymeric material used in the spin dyeing process has an irregular shape with a maximum dimension in the range of 1.5 to 4 mm. Clothing fabric after Claim 5 wherein the polymer material is provided in an irregular shape with dimensions of about 3.3 mm x 3 mm x 2.2 mm. The garment fabric of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the spin dyeing process uses a masterbatch pigment wherein the particle size of the masterbatch is less than the denier number of the fibers from which the yarn is made. The garment fabric of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the masterbatch pigment has a particle size in the range of 20 nanometers to about 2 micrometers. The garment fabric of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the spin dyeing process comprises incorporating a plasticizer to impart a soft effect to the knitted garment fabric. The garment fabric of any one of the preceding claims wherein the spin dyeing process comprises incorporating a matting agent in the range of about 0.4 to 1.5 weight percent to impart the required degree of dulling to the knitted garment fabric. Clothing fabric after Claim 10 wherein the matting agent is TiO ₂ . The garment fabric according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the knitting method is an industrial knitting method performed with an automatic knitting machine. The garment fabric of any of the preceding claims, wherein the knitting process is performed with a circular knitting machine. The garment fabric of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the first yarn variety and the at least one other yarn variety have the same yarn size. The garment fabric of any one of the preceding claims, wherein all yarns of the first plurality of n yarns have the same denier number so that each yarn has a denier number of (D ₁ ) / n, and wherein all the yarns are of the at least one other Variety of m yarns have the same denier number, so that each yarn has a denier number of (D ₂ ) / m. A garment fabric according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the first denier number (D ₁ ) corresponds to the further denier number (D ₂ ). The garment fabric of any of the preceding claims, wherein the first yarn variety and the at least one other yarn variety are made from the same polymeric material. Clothing fabric according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the required optical color and the required pattern effect is a homogeneous color effect. Clothing fabric according to one of the Claims 1 to 17 in which the required optical color and the required pattern effect are a regular pattern effect or an irregular pattern effect. Clothing fabric after Claim 19 wherein the required optical color and the required pattern effect are a pattern selected from the group consisting of a melange pattern, stripes, jacquard, motifs and the like. An article of clothing made from a garment material made from the garment fabric of any one of Claims 1 to 20 is made. A spin-dyed yarn made from spun-dyed fibers for producing a garment fabric in a predetermined required optical color and having a predetermined required pattern effect and predetermined physical properties, wherein the spun-dyed yarn is prepared according to the following steps: (i) blending a masterbatch dye in the required color with a molten polymer material to form a molten polymer material in the required color; (ii) extruding the molten polymer material through a plurality of spinnerets to form a plurality of spun-dyed fibers of the required color, the spinnerets having a size about 2 to 3 times the required size for the fibers from which a yarn is to be made , corresponds; and (iii) winding a plurality of fibers to form a spun-dyed yarn for later manufacture of a garment fabric. Spun dyed yarn after Claim 22 wherein the yarn has a denier in a range of 45 denier to 200 denier. Spun dyed yarn after Claim 22 or Claim 23 wherein each yarn is made of a number of fibers in the range of 40 to 300. Spun dyed yarn after one of Claims 22 to 24 wherein each fiber of the yarn has a largest cross-sectional diameter in the range of 0.2 μm to 1.1 μm. Spun dyed yarn after one of Claims 22 to 25 wherein the polymeric material is selected from materials selected from the group comprising polyethylene terephthalate, polyester, acrylic, polyolefin, nylon 6 and nylon 66, and mixtures thereof. Spun dyed yarn after one of Claims 22 to 23 wherein the polymeric material used to form the molten polymeric material is provided in an irregular shape having a maximum dimension in the range of 1.5 to 4 mm. Spun dyed yarn after Claim 27 wherein the polymer material is provided in an irregular shape with dimensions of about 3.3 mm x 3 mm x 2.2 mm. Spun dyed yarn after one of Claims 22 to 28 wherein the masterbatch pigment has a particle size that is less than the denier number of the fibers from which the yarn is made. Spun dyed yarn after one of Claims 22 to 29 wherein the masterbatch pigment has a particle size in the range of 20 nanometers to about 2 microns. Spun dyed yarn after one of Claims 22 to 30 wherein the spun-dyed yarn comprises a plasticizer, wherein the plasticizer is incorporated into the molten polymeric material to impart a soft effect to the knitted garment fabric prior to extruding the molten polymeric material. Spun dyed yarn after one of Claims 22 to 31 wherein the spun-dyed yarn further comprises a matting agent, wherein the matting agent is incorporated in the molten polymeric material in a range of about 0.4 to 1.5 percent by weight to provide a garment fabric knitted from the spun-dyed yarn prior to extruding the molten polymeric material to give the required degree of matting. Spun dyed yarn after Claim 32 wherein the matting agent is TiO ₂ . A system for producing a multi-layered garment fabric in a predetermined required optical color and having a predetermined required pattern effect and predetermined physical properties from a plurality of yarns in the required optical color and pattern, made from a plurality of spun-dyed polymer fibers, the system comprising: a knitting assembly for knitting a plurality of yarns for producing a multi-layered knitted fabric in a predetermined required optical color and having a predetermined required pattern effect and predetermined physical properties; a creel for carrying a plurality of coils; and a plurality of guide members arranged to guide n yarns of n spools to the knitting assembly for knitting with m yarns of m coils, each guide member guiding at least one of the n yarns and at least one of the m yarns to the knitting assembly for producing a multi-ply yarn Knitting with another multi-ply yarn by means of the knitting assembly and knitting the multi-ply yarn with the further multi-ply yarn to make the multi-ply garment fabric, wherein n and m are integers of two or more; wherein when knitting the multi-ply yarn to form the multi-ply garment fabric, the cloth fabric is made to satisfy the predetermined required optical color and the predetermined one required pattern effect and the predetermined physical properties of the material without optically visible changes in the required optical color and the required pattern effect; and wherein the yarn of the n yarns and the yarn of the m yarns are selected to provide the predetermined optical color and the predetermined pattern effect as well as the predetermined fabric properties. System after Claim 34 , where the system is an industrial automatic knitting machine. System after Claim 34 or Claim 35 , where the system is a circular knitting machine. A multi-layered knitted garment fabric in a predetermined required optical color and having a predetermined required pattern effect and predetermined physical properties and having no optically apparent changes in the required optical color and pattern effect, the garment fabric comprising: a knit fabric of a plurality of multi-layer yarns, respectively consist of at least two yarns, each multi-ply yarn being made of a plurality of n yarns and a further plurality of m yarns, the total denier of the n yarns corresponding to a first denier number (D ₁ ); and m yarns, wherein the total number of m yarns corresponds to another denier number (D ₂ ), the denier number of all the yarns of the multi-ply yarn together providing the required yarn denier number for the fabric; wherein each yarn is made of a plurality of colored and spun-dyed fibers of a polymer material, and the plurality of n yarns and the plurality of m yarns provide the predetermined optical color and the predetermined pattern effect and the predetermined physical properties. Multi-layer, knitted garment fabric after Claim 37 wherein the first denier number (D ₁ ) and the further denier number (D ₂ ) are in a range of 45 denier to 200 denier. Multi-layer, knitted garment fabric after Claim 37 or Claim 38 wherein each yarn of the plurality of n yarns and each yarn of the plurality of m yarns consists of a number p of fibers, where p is in the range of 40 to 300 and each fiber has a largest cross-sectional diameter in the range of 0.2 μm to 1 , 1 μm has. Multilayer, knitted garment fabric according to one of Claims 37 to 39 wherein the polymer material from which each yarn of the plurality of n yarns and each yarn of the plurality of m yarns is made is selected from the group consisting of polyethylene terephthalate, polyester, acrylic, polyolefin, nylon 6 and nylon 66, and blends thereof includes. Multilayer, knitted garment fabric according to one of Claims 37 to 40 wherein the spun-dyed fibers comprise a dulling agent in the range of about 0.4 to 1.5 weight percent to impart the required degree of dulling to the knitted garment fabric. Multi-layer, knitted garment fabric after Claim 41 wherein the matting agent is TiO ₂ . Multilayer, knitted garment fabric according to one of Claims 37 to 42 wherein the plurality of m yarns and the plurality of n yarns have the same yarn size. Multilayer, knitted garment fabric according to one of Claims 37 to 43 , wherein all yarns of the plurality of n yarns have the same denier number, so that each yarn has a denier number of (D ₁ ) / n, and wherein all the yarns of the further plurality of m yarns have the same denier number so that each yarn has a denier number of (D ₂ ) / m. Multilayer, knitted garment fabric according to one of Claims 37 to 44 , wherein the first denier number (D ₁ ) corresponds to the further denier number (D ₂ ). Multilayer, knitted garment fabric according to one of Claims 37 to 45 wherein the plurality of m yarns and the plurality of n yarns are made of one and the same polymer material. Multilayer, knitted garment fabric according to one of Claims 37 to 46 , wherein the required optical color and the required pattern effect is a homogeneous color effect. Multilayer, knitted garment fabric according to one of Claims 37 to 47 in which the required optical color and the required pattern effect are a regular pattern effect or an irregular pattern effect. Multi-layer, knitted garment fabric after Claim 48 wherein the required optical color and the required pattern effect are a pattern selected from the group consisting of a melange pattern, stripes, jacquard, motifs and the like. Articles of clothing consisting of a multi-layered, knitted clothing fabric according to one of Claims 37 to 49 is made.

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