DE1460551A1 - Process for leaching cloths containing keratin fibers - Google Patents

Description

Process for lustering cloths containing keratin fiber,

The invention relates to the sizing of keratin fiber-containing tissues, and more particularly to that
Luster for permanent finishing of keratin fiber-containing cloths.

A well-known luster process is paper ironing. The paper ironing is generally considered a last
Equalizing and smoothing the texture of a woolen cloth that is used at the same time to improve the feel and shine
of the cloth. A paper-ironed woolen cloth
can be described as shiny without being lascivious, and have a feel that is silky but firm

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is. The paper ironing is generally carried out by placing damp woolen cloth in individual gaps between sheets of paper (generally glossy cardboard) in a pile in a hydraulic press and then pressing and heating the pile of wool and paper for several hours. A distinction is made between variants of this general method, such distinctions depending on whether the press is a horizontal or a vertical press and whether the pressing is carried out in a stationary press, or whether the cloth is processed with an intermittent feed device . In its simplest form, the press itself consists of a lower and upper heavy metal plate, which are fastened together by 4 steel arms. A hydraulic press presses the lower platen, which carries the load of cloths folded between the papers and electric heating plates, (glossy cardboard with electric heating elements) against the upper platen. The electric heating plates in the pile of cloth and paper are then connected to the circuit , so that the heat is evenly distributed through the layers of the cloth. Prints from 3.5 to 70 kg / cm (50 to 1000 psi) and temperatures of about 21.1 O ⁰ - 93.3 ⁰ C (70 to 200 ⁰ I ¹⁾ and time periods of up to 16 hours are commonly used . It will be understood that the period of time is the length of time that the cloth is held stationary and pressed. If an intermittent feed device is used, the cloth is additionally pressed for an equal or shorter time after each advance of the cloth.

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While a towel with the desired look and feel is obtained by means of paper hangers, the shine imparted to the towel is not a permanent gloss, but is lost when the towel is exposed to moisture or dampened. A lustrous cloth with somewhat greater durability can be obtained by decating. In a decatizing process, wool and worsted yarn are "treated" by placing the cloth between layers of decatizing cloths and then pulling it onto a perforated drum equipped with a steaming and evacuation system. The steam is passed through the material from the inside to the outside , and then this treatment reversed if necessary. The vacuum pump draws the steam a "b after the end of the treatment. It is important to note the difference between the two types of decating, which are full decating and half decating. Semi-decating is carried out at atmospheric pressure with steaming and vacuum treating on the same tree. In the case of VoIldekatieren, the process is carried out at a pressure higher than atmospheric pressure, with steam treatment and vacuum treatment on the same tree, but in a car, clave chamber when steaming and in a separate vacuum stand ¹¹ when evacuating Gloss finish that is permanent against dampening or the influence of moisture.

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H60551.

There are certain advantages to both ironing paper as well as in the Dekatier-Lüstrieren. Both ways of working, however, are not expensive the glaze finish and especially the durability against moisture. From this it is clearly evident 'that a process that has the best features of both paper · ^ ironing as well as decating combined, and additionally gives the gloss finish a high level of durability, a significant advance in iPextile finishing would represent.

It is therefore the subject of the invention to contain a keratin fiber To deliver cloth with a gloss finish that has great durability · Furthermore is The subject of the invention is a method for producing a keratin fiber-containing lüstrierte lynx with a to deliver high finish resistance.

Finally, it is still a subject of the invention Method for the permanent! Lustering of a keratin fiber-containing Juchs, through a process that the best properties of paper ironing and bed catwalking united*

According to the invention, it has now been found that a permanent gloss finish can be obtained on a keratin fiber-containing textile by treating the keratin fiber-containing fabric with a reducing agent,

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the bo treated cloth sheets of paper; under conditions that are not sufficient to fix essential ropes of the reducing agent treated keratin fibers, and then the paper-pressed 3 pouch treated with steam and pressure under conditions sufficient to fix a substantial part of the reducing agent treated keratin fibers , preferably under conditions sufficient to permanently fix essentially all of the reducing agent treated keratinous fibers. It is preferred that the steam and pressure to which the paper-pressed compartment is exposed are the same as those applied in full decatizing. It is clear that the paper-pressed textile need not consist entirely of ueratin fibers, but can be a mixture of keratin and fine keratin fibers. "If a mixed cloth is used, the mixed cloth can have less than $ 100> but more than $ 35" the remainder being either synthetic or naturally occurring keratin fibers. Typical keratin fibers that can be used as fibers are, for example, sheep woxie, lajra wool, mohair, camel hair, alpaca, cashmere, vicuna, llama, angora wool and the like.

The conferred by the process of the invention

Finish durability and siff are maintained

■. ■■. ■■., ·. ■■■ · ■. '. . ■ · '■. ■. .,. ■■ ..-'- in the sense of destroying the existing fixation, subsequent

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Shaping and finally fixing in the new shape. "The The reaction that seems to take place when it is fixed in the new form is the reestablishment of the cystine bond the keratin fibers that have previously been broken down by contact with the hedging agent. The split ones Bonds are easily reunited to restore some or all of the disulfide bonds. While that the keratin fibers remain essentially chemically unchanged by the reduction and the oxidation some relocations of the cystine bonds seemingly common with some changes in hydrogen bonding taking place. These changes in the location of the cystine bond and Changes in hydrogen bonding provide a reshaped fiber. The reshaping of the fiber gives the individual Keratin fibers according to the invention, their ability to shape the gloss finish cloth gives them greater resistance to rent·

Becomes a lusty finish with increased resistance to the effects of water, steam and dry cleaning if desired, a reducing agent is used which has the characteristic cystine bond of the keratin fibers can break. Among the suitable reducing agents are the lower alkanolamine sulfites, such as monoethanolamine sulfite and isopropanolamine sulfite, and others containing up to 8 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain such as n-propanolamine sulfite, n-butanolamine sulfite, dimethylbutanolamine sulfite, Dirnethylhexanolamine sulfite and the like,

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metallic]? o: raaldehydsulfosylate, such as zinc formaldehyde sulfoacylate, alkali sulfoxylates, such as sodium formal & ehydsulfoxylate, alcaliborohydrides, such as i-sodium borohydride, potassium jrliydride and i-sodium potassium barhydride, alkali sulphite, such as -satrihaaulphite Metabieulfit, AmmoniiamMoiAlfit, latriumsulfid, latriumhydrosulfid, Satritaflliypcfi> Liospliit "Sodiumiiosulfat" Jatriumdithioi3cat _r TitatLdllolfiä,> Söhlefelic acid, mercaptanic acids such as water-soluble sodium sulfate / mercaptanic acids like water-glycated sodium sulfate: .töff c uad sodium f or potassium hydrosulfite, allsylmergaptans such as Bu ^ yI- or Ithy! mercaptans and mercaptan glycols such as B- methanoethanol and mixtures of these reagents

, Result se when the Beaktiomemittel in conjunction with a low molecular weight PpIyhydroxyverbindung ^{H 11} is used as an aid substance are obtained, which can act ale swelling agent · urea provides the desired on and leichtesten available; Aids, though each other. Means that suitably swell keratinous fibers in an aqueous medium. For example, guanidine bonds such as the hydrochloride, formamide, lijN-dimethylfoTmamide, acetamide ,; v> 33iii9urea. Phenol, lithium salts such as chloride, bromide and iodide and the like are similarly useful.

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H60551 Under the name "low molecular weight polyhydroxy

Compound * is understood to be a compound with »more than a hydrosyl group and a molecular weight not higher than about 4000. These compounds are the most readily available and desired compounds from the point of view of ease of application from ethylene glycol, a particularly preferred group includes ύοώ slycols the polyfunctional glycols with terminal hydroxyl groups separated by 2 to 10 methylene groups, including of course the preferred ethylene glycol, as well as ferric ethylene glycol, 3-tetraisethylene glycol, pentamethylene glycol, hexamethylene glycol and decamethylene glycol or such glycols as 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol , Bioethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol or the like.

Polyfunctional compounds with more than 2 hydroxyl groups include the polyfunctional alcohol glycerols like glycerin and diethylglyüerin as well as Trimethylolethane, iErimethylolbutane, tris-hydroxymethylaminomethane and another one, glycol ethers, such as the water-soluble ones or dispersible polyethylene glycols or Polypropylene glycols with molecular weights no greater than about 4000 also give satisfactory results, with whom they are used according to the invention.

The reducing agent with / or oline swelling agent or Polyhydroay compound can be applied to the cloth in any desired

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th amount to be applied, depending on the desired Degree of reduction. Generally the best 'results

en
obtained when aqueous solution / mlt about 0.01 "to 20% by weight and in particular from about 1 to 10% by weight reducing agent are applied to the! You. The swelling agent or the polyhydric compound can, if they are applied, on that can be applied by adding to the aqueous solution of the reducing agent in an amount of about 3 to 50 $ and in particular about 5 to 20 (rew »- $. Higher concentrations can be used where the treatment medium is only for a short time is suspended »

In general, the inventive method be done by first getting the keratin fiber ! Treated you with an aqueous solution of a reducing agent. The reducing agent can affect you! by, for example, spraying, slotting, squeezing, simple Dipping, or wetting with! Giggles, which are saturated with the reducing agent solution, applied will. It is desirable that those treated with the reducing agent should also be given time to use the reducing agent can spread out and react before that! will. The reducing agent-treated cloth can therefore rolled up and stored before ironing paper - or partially dried and stored in the open air. After that the bich treated with haysticks aged it is preferably dried, with the! drying

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sufficient to reduce the moisture content of the cloth to one Lower point where essentially no permanent Fixation of the Ruches takes place before the maddening.

aJ

In some cases, however, a "special finish can be obtained if sufficient moisture is left in the cloth to obtain a partially permanent fixation of the cloth during paper pressing. it is preferred that the keratin fiber-containing agent treated with the reducing agent is subjected to mild semi-decating before the paper is pressed. The mild semi-decating smooths the cloth, and allows it to be easily stacked in the paper press. A preferred mild semi-decating is carried out under conditions such as steaming for about 5 seconds, followed by vacuum treatment for 2 seconds. The paper ironing

ο is used at pressures of about 3.5-70 kg / cm (50 to 1000 psi) and preferably 21-35 kg / cm ² (300 to 500 psi). Temperatures of about 2t, 1 - (70 ⁰ F to 200 ° F) 93.3 ° C and preferably from about 37.8 - conducted 65.6 ⁰ O (100 to 150 ⁰ F). The paper ironing is preferably carried out as intermittent paper pressing, with time intervals of approximately 6 to 8 hours, the pressing period being repeated after the cloth has been moved. It will be understood that paper pressing is always carried out under conditions which provide primarily temporary fixation with little or no permanent fixation of the éeratin fibers of the blanket. The paper

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Pressed cloth is then brought to the final full decating, the decating using steam treatment intervals of about 1 to 10 minutes, and preferably about 5 to 6 minutes, and steam treatment intervals of about 2 to 60 minutes and preferably about 15 to 30 minutes. Steaming is carried out at antoclave pressures of about 0.07-7.0 kg / cm (1 to 100 psi), and preferably about 1.05-2.8 kg / cm ² (15 to 40 psi).

The following examples are for illustrative purposes indicated and are not intended to limit the invention

Example 1

A woolen cloth is treated with an aqueous solution containing 6.4 Grew .- ^ monoisopropanolamine sulfite (70 $ aqueous solution) and 0.1 wt .- # non-ionic mordant Surfonic U-95 (surface-active agent of the ethylene oxide adduct type) treated. Since © woolen cloth is geklotat au an 80 ^ strength leuehtaufnähme, wherein the temperature of KLoiHzbades at about 26 t ° C (80 ⁰ F) is held. The cloth is then 20 min. At about ⁰ G 26.7 aged (80 ° F) and 'In an ISO-yard Hunter dryer at 93.3 ⁰ O (200 ⁰ I) · dried Jiaeh drying, the cloth semi-deka advantage in a Cycle of Dampfdurohbruäh +5 sec. Steam treatment, +2 Kin * vacuum pumps. The cloth is then placed in a paper press, each board having heaters 5th * The stack so produced is at pressures of about 18.9 kg / cm ² (270 psi) at temperatures up to 6 NC ° east

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(HO ⁰ P) pressed for about 8 hours. After heating for a further 2 hours, the heating elements are then turned off and the stack temperature is allowed to drop evenly during the remaining time of the 8 hours peeled off and then stacked again, the textile part that was previously wrapped around the outside of the box is now placed in the center of the box. The stack of reoriented cloths is then put back into the press and the previous press treatment repeated for the same 8 hours. At the end of this second 8 hours, the cloth is removed from the tenderloin and placed in a decatation unit, followed by a decatation cycle of 6 1/2 minutes penetration, 2 1/2 minutes steam flow from the outside to the inside, 2 1/2 minutes / 2 min. Steam flow from the inside to the outside and then subjected to 20 min. Evacuation. Subject to the Vblldekatieren, the cloth is examined and determined that it has a finish of increased gloss, which is permanent against steam decating, balt water decating and 3 successive dry cleanings ·

Example 2

A 90 f> Wool - 10 ^ Dacron (polyester fiber) cloth with an aqueous solution containing 0.01 Gtew.-ji Hatriummetabisulfit and 3 wt - $ padded glycerol.. The cloth is padded to an 80 # length moisture absorption, whereby

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the temperature of the padding solution at 26.7 ° 0 (80 ⁰ F) is held. Bas cloth is then aged about 20 min ^(0] 8O?) At a temperature of about 26.7 ⁰ C and then in a 180 yard Buntertrockaer at 95 |. Dried 3 ° E (200 ° P). Ba * dried cloth is placed in a paper press, every 5th box having heating elements. The stack so produced is pressed at pressures of about 21 kg / em (500 pel) at temperatures of about 21,1 ⁰ O (70 ⁰ I) for about 8 hrs ·. After heating for 2 hours, the heating elements are turned off and the stack temperature is allowed to drop evenly during the remaining time of the 8 hours and then stacked again, with the files previously located on the outer edge of the cardboard box now reaching the center of the cardboard box. The stack of reoriented blanket is then returned to the press and the above process repeated for the same 8 hours. At the end of the second 8 hours, the foot is removed from the Bartons and brought into a Yolldekatier-Sinheit and a Cyolus for 10 minutes. Steam-treat and then 60 Hin. Takuum-treatment volldek ^e -.i.ert »where the steaming is carried out under auto Jfclavdruoken of about 5 * £ 53 kg / cm ² (60 peig) _ψ The finished igeb. has a high gloss that is resistant to steam decating.

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U6Ü551

Example 3

A pure wool worsted cloth is padded with an aqueous solution containing 20% by weight of monoethanolamine sulfite. The cloth is padded to SOjSigen wet pickup, wherein the temperature of the padding solution at 26.7 ⁰ C (8O ⁰ F) is held. The cloth is then about 10 min. Allowed to age at a temperature of about 26,7 ⁰ O (8O ⁰ F) and partially dried on a 180 yard Hunter dryer at 93.3 ° C (200 ⁰ F). The partially dried cloth is then placed in a paper press, contains every 5th cardboard heating elements and the thus prepared stack of napkins at pressures of about 35 kg / cm (500 psi) using temperatures of about 93 "3 ⁰ C (200 ⁰ F ) pressed within 8 hours. After heating for about 2 hours, the heating elements are turned off and the stack temperature is allowed to drop evenly during the remaining time of the 8 hours The cardboard boxes are peeled off and then stacked again, the parts of the cloth that were previously wrapped around the outer edges of the cardboard boxes are now brought into the center of the cardboard box. The stack of reoriented cloths is then put back into the press and the above pressing is repeated for the same 8 hours. After the end of these second 8 hours, the cloth is peeled off the cloth and placed in a full decoration unit with a decatieroyelus of one min.

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H60551

treat, then vacuum treat for 3 min, whereby
steaming under pressures of approximately 1.733 kg / cm
(10 psig). Bas preserved cloth possesses
an appealing and lasting shine.

Example 4

A pure wool combed gauze is padded with an aqueous solution containing 5% by weight of aluminum bisulfite. That
Cloth is padded to a 80 $ strength ffeuch tup would take, the temperature of the padding solution at 26.7 ⁰ O (80 P ⁰⁾ is maintained. The cloth is then about 20 min. Allowed to age at a temperature of approximately 26.7 ⁰ G (8O ⁰ P). That with
The reducing agent-dampened cloth is then placed in a paper press, with every 5th cardboard box heating elements
having. The stack so prepared is pressed at pressures of about 3.50 kg / cm (50 psi) and temperatures of about 21 ^° C. (70 ^° I) for about 8 hours. After heating for 2 hours, the heating elements are turned off and the stack temperature can be adjusted to room temperature if necessary. The cloth and cardboard boxes are then removed from the
Remove the press and stack the cloth again, with the part that was first wrapped around the outer edges of the cardboard box entering the center of the cardboard box. Of the
The stack of reoriented blanket is then returned to the press and the above pressing repeated for an identical 8 hours. At the end of the second 8 hours, the cloth is removed from
peeled off the cardboard boxes and placed in a full decoration unit

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M6Ü551

and subjected to a decat cycle of 10 minutes of steaming followed by 60 minutes of vacuum treatment, the steaming being carried out under autoclave pressures of approximately 7 kg / cm (100 psi). Do the great decorating, you will be examined and determined that it has a finish of increased gloss, which is permanent against steam and cold water decorating.

The gloss mentioned in the examples can be defined as the ability of the cloth to reflect light. In order to determine the gloss of the cloth produced according to the invention, in particular to determine the durability of the gloss of this cloth, light reflection measurements are carried out on a Banter lab color difference meter Model D25 manufactured by the Banter Associates laboratory, Inc. The above- mentioned instrument uses a polychromatic light source and a matched set of blocking light photocells. One photocell is illuminated directly by the light source, while the other photocell is illuminated by that of the The measurement is carried out as the difference between the respective photocurrents generated by the photocell which is directly illuminated and the photocell which is illuminated by the light reflected from the cloth. All measurements are carried out with rows of cloths below Using a Illuminated cloth of each row as a comparison sample. Yes measurements are carried out with, *, a reflection angle parallel to the Eetten yarn and parallel

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H6U551

to the Sehussgarn. The comparison sample is regarded as 0, that is, the measurements for each reference sample are subtracted from all other readings in the same series, so that a numerical value is obtained which explains the gloss quality. The numerical value has of course not a unit, but is a valuable means of comparing slanzes, with the higher numerical Display values in the larger GHanz. The at the reflection regulation The information obtained is given in the following üfabelle compiled. Everyone was making fun of rehearsals are prepared according to the procedure of Example 1.

ffuch chain weft

Comparison for Woll-Planell 0.0 0.0 Lustered wool llanell 14.0 ok Comparison for wool-Kannel 0.0 0.0 **
Lustered wool SLannel 11.0 8.0 Comparison for wool elanel 0.0 0.0 Lustered wool flannel 9.0 5.0

Woolen annel with the following properties:

3-7 / 8 stitches pure wool yarn (warp and weft) 1984 (body ends) body passages 40 (selvage ends) edge passages 25 wefts per 2f & οπ.

8-1 / 2 finished ounces per linear yard 55.5 inches of finished width

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U6Ü551

Wool flannel with the following properties:

3-7 / 8 stitches pure wool yarn 5 stitches pure wool chain yarn 3035 body passages 54 selvedge passages 32 wefts per 2.4 cm 12.1 finished ounces per linear yard 60 inches fire finishing width

Wool flannel with the following properties:

5 stitches pure wool yarn (warp and weft) 3035 body passages 54 selvedge passages 40 shots per 2 ßj. cm 11.8 finished ounces per linear yard 60 inches wet sizing width

Claims

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Claims (1)

Patent application 1. laüBtrlr Ahren for keratinfaserhaltige! Euehe, by gelcen & seichnet _v that fold paper ironed out the and then subjecting thus treated laughing a steam and pressure treatment · 2. Terfahren according to JDaspraeh 1, characterized in that aan as steam and pressure treatment makes a great decorating 3 IÄBtrier experience, thus marked net, that sam treated a keratin-containing compartment with a reducing agent _v ironed the thus treated search paper, and then decated the treated compartment great · 4o Terfahren according to claim 3 _t, characterized in that the keratin-containing compartment used is one which contains only leratinous fibers. 5. LttetrierTerfahren, characterized in that Bank treats a compartment containing keratin fibers with a reducing agent that can break down the characteristic oystine bonds of the keratin, ironing the paper treated with the reducing agent under conditions that are not sufficient to permanently fix the compartment and then the cloth under conditions fully decorated, 909808/0422 - 20 - U-27 which are sufficient for a considerable part of the ait reducing agent treated keratin fibers permanently fix.' 6. The method according to claim 5 »characterized in that one is used as a keratin fiber-containing cloth uses one that contains only keratin fibers 7. Registration procedure, marked thereby e t that one treats a search containing keratin fibers with an aqueous solution of a seduction agent that can split the characteristic qystine bonds of keratin, the search dries, the cloth presses paper and intestines The search is so fully decated that a considerable amount of the reducing agent treated ceratin fibers become permanent is fixed » 8. The method according to claim 7, characterized in that the keratin fiber-containing cloth uses one that contains only keratin fibers 9 lascivious process, characterized in that that one treats a keratin fiber-containing cloth with a reducing agent that has the characteristic The oystin bonds of keratin can break down with the help of a reducing agent Pressing treated cloth under conditions which are insufficient to make the cloth permanent fix it and then fully decate it, with the great decatation 909808/0422 - 21 ■ - "1A-27 868: is performed using a steaming interval from about 1 "to 10 min. and a message interval from about 2 to 60 min. with steaming at steam pressures of about 1.105 - 8.033 kg / cm · 10 · The method of claim 9 »characterized geke η η ζ η calibration et _f comprises using a keratinfaserhaltiges cloth containing only geratinfaaera. 11. The method according to claim 9 »characterized by g e k e η η, that a steam treatment of about 3 to 6 minutes and a vacuum treatment are used when fully decatizing from about 15 to 30 hin. undertakes, with the Steam at autoclave pressures of approximately 2.083-3.833 kg / cm is made 12. Luscious behavior, characterized in that Ban treats a fox containing keratin fibers with a reducing agent which the characteristic cystine bindings to whom. Can split keratin, the search treated with reducing agent _{presses paper at pressures of about 3 tons} 50 - 70 kg / cm and temperatures of about 21.1 - 93> 3 ^Ο 0 (70 to 200 ⁶ I) and then the cloth is fully decated under conditions, which are sufficient to permanently fix a considerable rope of the keratin fibers treated with reducing agent · 909808/0422 - 22 - U-2T868 1480551 13ο method of claim 12 _t characterized in that fold as a keratinfaserhaltiges used containing only Seratinfasern · ! (300 "to 500 psi) and temperatures of 35 kg / cm of about 37.8 - - 14. The method according to claim 10, characterized in that one presses paper when printing of about 21! Applies 65.6 ⁰ C. 15 · Histri er method, characterized in that a keratin-containing cloth is treated with a reducing agent which can break down the characteristic bonds of keratin, the reducing agent treated cloth at pressures of about 3.5 70 kg / om and temperatures of about 21.1 - 93.3 ⁰ O paper presses and then the search fully decated, the Yoll decatation with beating treatments of about 1 to 10 Hin. and yakuum treatments are carried out for about 2 to 60 minutes and the steaming is carried out at autoclave steam pressures of about 1.103 - 8.033 kg / cm 16 · The method according to claim 15, characterized in that the keratin fiber-containing cloth one with only keratin fibers used 17. üüatrierverfahren, thereby marked i- n e t that you can use a keratinous cloth with a 909808/0422 - 23 - 1A-27 Reducing agent ", which can break down the characteristic cystine bonds of keratin, presses the cloth treated with reducing agent at pressures of» about 3.5 - 70 kg / cm and temperatures of about 37 # 8 65.6 ° G and then fully decated, with the Yolecating is carried out using a steam treatment interval of approximately 3 to 6 minutes and a vacuum treatment interval of approximately 15 to 30 minutes , the steaming being carried out at autoclave pressures of approximately 0.5 to 2.80 kg / cm. 18. Terfahren according to claim 15 »characterized in that the keratin fiber-containing Tuen uses one that contains only keratin fibers. 19 · Loosening process, characterized in that a keratin fiber-containing cloth is treated with an aqueous solution of a reducing agent that can break down the characteristic cystine bonds of keratin, the cloth treated with the reducing agent dries, the cloth at pressures of about 3 »5 - 70 kg / cm and temperatures of about ^{37.8-65.6 0} O, and then fully decating the cloth, the fully decating using a steam treatment of about 3 to 6 minutes and a turbo treatment of about 15 to 30 minutes Steaming is performed at autoclave pressures of approximately 1.05-2.80 kg / cm. , 20. Lustered towel according to claim 1. 909808/0422