DE102023203790A1 - Cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the prophylaxis and relief of erythropoietic protoporphyria - Google Patents
Cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the prophylaxis and relief of erythropoietic protoporphyria Download PDFInfo
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- DE102023203790A1 DE102023203790A1 DE102023203790.4A DE102023203790A DE102023203790A1 DE 102023203790 A1 DE102023203790 A1 DE 102023203790A1 DE 102023203790 A DE102023203790 A DE 102023203790A DE 102023203790 A1 DE102023203790 A1 DE 102023203790A1
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- iron oxide
- cosmetic
- preparations
- acid
- Prior art date
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- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 32
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 26
- 206010036186 Porphyria non-acute Diseases 0.000 title claims description 9
- 201000008220 erythropoietic protoporphyria Diseases 0.000 title claims description 9
- 238000011321 prophylaxis Methods 0.000 title 1
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- SZVJSHCCFOBDDC-UHFFFAOYSA-N iron(II,III) oxide Inorganic materials O=[Fe]O[Fe]O[Fe]=O SZVJSHCCFOBDDC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 16
- JEIPFZHSYJVQDO-UHFFFAOYSA-N iron(III) oxide Inorganic materials O=[Fe]O[Fe]=O JEIPFZHSYJVQDO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 13
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- 229910021519 iron(III) oxide-hydroxide Inorganic materials 0.000 claims abstract description 9
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
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Abstract
Kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen, welche umfassen:eine Pigmentkombination ausa) 0,01 - 70 Gew.-% roten Eisenoxids (Fe2O3)b) 0,01 - 70 Gew.-% schwarzen Eisenoxids (Fe3O4)c) 10 - 99,98 Gew.-% gelben Eisenoxids (FeO(OH)) wobei die Summe aus a), b) und c) 100 Gew.-% ergeben.Cosmetic or dermatological preparations which comprise: a pigment combination of a) 0.01 - 70% by weight of red iron oxide (Fe2O3)b) 0.01 - 70% by weight of black iron oxide (Fe3O4)c) 10 - 99.98% by weight .-% yellow iron oxide (FeO(OH)) where the sum of a), b) and c) results in 100% by weight.
Description
Die erythropoetische Protoporphyrie (EPP) ist eine seltene, vererbbare Stoffwechselstörung der Hämsynthese und zählt zu der Gruppe der Porphyrien, einer Gruppe von Stoffwechselerkrankungen, die mit einer Störung des Aufbaus des roten Blutfarbstoffs Häm einhergehen. Betroffen sind die Enzyme der Hämbiosynthese - je nachdem, welches der Enzyme einen Defekt aufweist, reichern sich spezifische Zwischenprodukte der Hämsynthese in den verschiedenen Organen an und verursachen die für die jeweilige Porphyrie typischen Symptome.Erythropoietic protoporphyria (EPP) is a rare, heritable metabolic disorder of heme synthesis and belongs to the group of porphyrias, a group of metabolic diseases that are associated with a disruption in the production of the red blood pigment heme. The enzymes of heme biosynthesis are affected - depending on which of the enzymes has a defect, specific intermediate products of heme synthesis accumulate in the various organs and cause the symptoms typical of the respective porphyria.
Die durch den fehlgeleiteten Hämaufbau entstandenden Protoporphyrinmoleküle gelangen durch Lichtabsorption in einen energetisch angeregten Zustand. Bei Abgabe der Energie entstehen Sauerstoffradikale, die Strukturen im Gewebe angreifen und zerstören können (Oxidativer Stress). Entzündungsreaktionen und Einbeziehung des Immunsystems sind die Folge (Jucken und Anschwellen der dem Sonnenlicht ausgesetzten Haut).The protoporphyrin molecules created by the misdirected heme buildup enter an energetically excited state through light absorption. When the energy is released, oxygen radicals are created that can attack and destroy structures in the tissue (oxidative stress). The result is inflammatory reactions and involvement of the immune system (itching and swelling of skin exposed to sunlight).
Die Haut der Betroffenen reagiert am sensibelsten auf Licht im Bereich der Wellenlänge von etwa 400 Nanometer, da Protoporphyrin Licht von dieser Wellenlänge besonders gut absorbiert: Die Hauptabsorptionsbande von Protoporphyrin liegt bei 400 nm (UV-A-Strahlung/ Soret-Bande), weitere Absorptionsbanden existieren zwischen 500 und 625 nm.The skin of those affected reacts most sensitively to light in the wavelength range of around 400 nanometers, as protoporphyrin absorbs light of this wavelength particularly well: The main absorption band of protoporphyrin is at 400 nm (UV-A radiation/Soret band), other absorption bands exist between 500 and 625 nm.
Das für die Lichtunverträglichkeit verantwortliche Protoporphyrin weist folgende Struktur auf:
Die erythropoetische Protoporphyrie äußert sich klinisch hauptsächlich durch eine schmerzhafte (Sonnen-)Lichtempfindlichkeit, gelegentlich auch durch eine Photodermatose.Erythropoietic protoporphyria is clinically manifested primarily by painful (sun) sensitivity to light, occasionally also by photodermatosis.
Die ersten Symptome zeigen sich meistens zwischen dem ersten und zehnten Lebensjahr und äußern sich dann in Vermeidungsverhalten gegenüber Sonnenlicht und Hyperaktivität. In 20-30 % der Fälle kann es zu einer leichten Beeinträchtigung der Leberfunktion kommen.The first symptoms usually appear between the ages of one and ten and then manifest themselves in avoidance behavior towards sunlight and hyperactivity. In 20-30% of cases, mild impairment of liver function may occur.
Bei ca. 5 % der Betroffenen treten schwere Leberschäden auf. Aber alleine schon die Konfliktsituation, die aus kindlichem Bewegungsdrang und Sonnenlichtvermeidung resultiert, wäre problematisch genug.Severe liver damage occurs in around 5% of those affected. But the conflict situation that results from the child's need to move and avoid sunlight alone would be problematic enough.
Aufgabe der vorliegenden Erfindung war es daher, Linderung der Symptome der erythropoetischen Protoporphyrie zu verschaffen. Insbesondere war es eine Aufgabe der Erfindung, einfach anzuwendende Mittel zur Verfügung zu stellen, die von den oft kindlichen oder jugendlichen Patienten auch akzeptiert werden können.The object of the present invention was therefore to provide relief from the symptoms of erythropoietic protoporphyria. In particular, it was an object of the invention to provide easy-to-use means that can also be accepted by often child or adolescent patients.
Diese Aufgaben werden gelöst durch kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen, welche umfassen:
- eine Pigmentkombination aus
- a) 0,01 - 70 Gew.-% roten Eisenoxids (Fe2O3)
- b) 0,01 - 70 Gew.-% schwarzen Eisenoxids (Fe3O4)
- c) 10 - 99,98 Gew.-% gelben Eisenoxids (FeO(OH))
- a pigment combination
- a) 0.01 - 70% by weight of red iron oxide (Fe 2 O 3 )
- b) 0.01 - 70% by weight of black iron oxide (Fe 3 O 4 )
- c) 10 - 99.98% by weight of yellow iron oxide (FeO(OH))
Erfindungsgemäß ist ferner die kosmetische Verwendung auf der menschlichen Haut aufzutragender Zubereitungen, welche umfassen:
- eine Pigmentkombination aus
- a) 0,01 - 70 Gew.-% roten Eisenoxids (Fe2O3)
- b) 0,01 - 70 Gew.-% schwarzen Eisenoxids (Fe3O4)
- c) 10 - 99,98 Gew.-% gelben Eisenoxids (FeO(OH))
- a pigment combination
- a) 0.01 - 70% by weight of red iron oxide (Fe 2 O 3 )
- b) 0.01 - 70% by weight of black iron oxide (Fe 3 O 4 )
- c) 10 - 99.98% by weight of yellow iron oxide (FeO(OH))
Verschiedene Arbeitsgruppen haben sich bereits versucht, dem mit hohem Leidensdruck behafteten Phänemen der EPP Linderung zu verschaffen. So beschreiben Alvise Sernicola et al. in Frontiers in Medicine, Dezember 2021 Kombinationen aus verschiedenen organisch-chemischen Lichtschutzfiltern und einem unbestimmten synthetischen Eisenpigment als Schutz vor den Wellenlängen des elektromagnetischen Spektrums, bei dem Protoporphyrin maximale Lichtabsorption aufweist. Es handelt sich aber hier um in-vitro-Ergebnisse, ferner fehlen wichtige Angaben zum Eisenpigment.Various working groups have already tried to provide relief from the highly distressing phenomenon of EPP. Alvise Sernicola et al. in Frontiers in Medicine, December 2021 Combinations of various organic chemical light protection filters and an undetermined synthetic iron pigment as protection against the wavelengths of the electromagnetic spectrum where protoporphyrin has maximum light absorption. However, these are in vitro results and important information about the iron pigment is missing.
Erfindungsgemäß ist es aber möglich, einen effektiven Schutz gegen die Symptome der EPP zu erzielen, mit einem Minimaleinsatz, und vorteilhaft sogar ohne den Einsatz organischchemischer Lichtschutzfilter.According to the invention, however, it is possible to achieve effective protection against the symptoms of EPP with minimal use, and advantageously even without the use of organic chemical light protection filters.
So sind eine vorteilhafte Verkörperung der vorliegenden Erfindung kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen, welche umfassen:
- eine Pigmentkombination aus
- a) 0,01 - 70 Gew.-% roten Eisenoxids (Fe2O3)
- b) 0,01 - 70 Gew.-% schwarzen Eisenoxids (Fe3O4)
- c) 10 - 99,98 Gew.-% gelben Eisenoxids (FeO(OH))
- a pigment combination
- a) 0.01 - 70% by weight of red iron oxide (Fe 2 O 3 )
- b) 0.01 - 70% by weight of black iron oxide (Fe 3 O 4 )
- c) 10 - 99.98% by weight of yellow iron oxide (FeO(OH))
Insbesondere vorteilhaft sind solche Zubereitungen, die maximal 0,50 Gew.-% an organisch-chemischen Lichtschutzfiltern, und ganz besonders bevorzugt überhaupt keine organischchemische Lichtschutzfilter enthalten.Preparations which contain a maximum of 0.50% by weight of organic-chemical light protection filters, and most preferably no organic-chemical light protection filters at all, are particularly advantageous.
Es ist vorteilhaft, Verhältnisse von a) : b) : c) im Bereich von a = 0,05 bis 10 zu B = 0,05 bis 10 zu c = 10 bis 95 zu wählen, insbesondere von a = 0,1 bis 10 zu B = 0,1 bis 10 zu c = 10 bis 90.It is advantageous to choose ratios of a) : b) : c) in the range from a = 0.05 to 10 to B = 0.05 to 10 to c = 10 to 95, in particular from a = 0.1 to 10 to B = 0.1 to 10 to c = 10 to 90.
Die Prozentangaben sind auf den Reingehalt der Oxide gemäß der jeweiligen chemischen Formel bezogen. Nicht berücksichtigt sind dabei gegebenenfalls vorliegende Verunreinigungen wie etwa Spuren Wassers.The percentages are based on the pure content of the oxides according to the respective chemical formula. Any impurities that may be present, such as traces of water, are not taken into account.
Gelbes Eisenoxid wird auch Eisenoxidgelb genannt. Seine Farbe ähnelt dem natürlicher Goldocker und wird mit DIN 3:6:1 angegeben. In Kosmetikprodukten wird es in der Liste der Inhaltsstoffe als CI 77492 (INCI) aufgeführt.Yellow iron oxide is also called iron oxide yellow. Its color is similar to that of natural gold ocher and is given as DIN 3:6:1. In cosmetic products it is listed in the ingredient list as CI 77492 (INCI).
Rotes Eisenoxid wird auch Eisenoxidrot genannt Wie Eisenoxidgelb ist Eisenoxidrot gut deckend, preisgünstig und hochwetterecht, zeigt aber ebenfalls den typischen trüben Farbton. Je nach Teilchengröße können Eisenoxidrotpigmente sehr gelbstichig (kleine Teilchengröße) bis sehr blaustichig (grobe Teilchen) eingestellt werden In Kosmetikprodukten wird es in der Liste der Inhaltsstoffe als CI 77491 (INCI) aufgeführt.Red iron oxide is also called iron oxide red. Like iron oxide yellow, iron oxide red has good coverage, is inexpensive and highly weatherproof, but also has the typical cloudy color. Depending on the particle size, iron oxide red pigments can have a very yellow cast (small particle size) to a very blue cast (coarse particles). In cosmetic products it is listed in the list of ingredients as CI 77491 (INCI).
Schwarzes Eisenoxid wird auch Eisenoxidschwarz genannt. In Kosmetikprodukten wird es in der Liste der Inhaltsstoffe als CI 77499 (INCI) aufgeführt.Black iron oxide is also called iron oxide black. In cosmetic products it is listed in the ingredient list as CI 77499 (INCI).
Die erfindungsgemäße Zubereitung ist bevorzugt als Kosmetikum formuliert. Auch als dermatologische Zubereitung mit dann entsprechenden therapeutisch wirksamen Inhaltsstoffen ist erfindungsgemäß, ebenso wie deren Verwendung zur Herstellung pharmazeutischer Produkte.The preparation according to the invention is preferably formulated as a cosmetic. The invention also applies as a dermatological preparation with corresponding therapeutically active ingredients, as does its use for the production of pharmaceutical products.
De Zubereitung kann sowohl als Gel, Hydrodispersion als auch emulsionsbasierend formuliert werden.The preparation can be formulated as a gel, hydrodispersion or emulsion-based.
Die erfindungsgemäße Zubereitung ist vorteilhaft dadurch gekennzeichnet, das sie in Form einer wässrigen oder wässrig-alkoholischen Lösung, eines Öls, einer Emulsion (W/O, O/W, W/Si, Si/W oder multiple Emulsion, Makro-, Mikro- oder Nanoemulsion), einer Dispersion, einer Pickering-Emulsion, eines Gels oder eines Hydrodispersionsgels vorliegt.The preparation according to the invention is advantageously characterized in that it is in the form of an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solution, an oil, an emulsion (W/O, O/W, W/Si, Si/W or multiple emulsion, macro-, micro- or nanoemulsion), a dispersion, a Pickering emulsion, a gel or a hydrodispersion gel.
Die Zubereitung kann erfindungsgemäß auch in Form einer dünnflüssigen, sprühfähigen wässrigen oder wässrig-alkoholischen Lösung, in Form eines Gels, in einer Wachsmatrix, einer Stiftform, als Salbe, Creme oder Lotion (ggf. sprühbar) vorliegen.According to the invention, the preparation can also be in the form of a thin, sprayable aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solution, in the form of a gel, in a wax matrix, in a stick form, as an ointment, cream or lotion (possibly sprayable).
Ganz besonders vorteilhaft können Zubereitungen gemäß der vorliegenden Erfindung in Form von Pudern vorliegen.Preparations according to the present invention can be particularly advantageous in the form of powders.
Kosmetische Zubereitungen in Puderform wie beispielsweise Lidschatten oder Rouge sind seit Jahrhunderten bekannt. Als „gegossene Puder“ werden diejenigen Produkte bezeichnet, die in der Weise erhalten werden, dass man eine feste teilchenförmige Phase mit einem Bindemittel (im allgemeinen einer Fettphase) zum Erhalt einer fluiden Paste in einem Lösungsmittel mischt, die fluide Paste durch Eingießen in geeignete Behältnisse (Tiegel) aufteilt und danach das Lösungsmittel abdampft (Kompaktpuder). Die Vorteile der gegossenen Puder liegen einerseits in der Möglichkeit, dank der Auswahl eines geeigneten Lösungsmittels verschiedene Inhaltsstoffe in die Zubereitung einzuführen, und andererseits in der freien Auswahl in Bezug auf Form und Material des Tiegels, was die Herstellung zahlreicher Endprodukte gestattet.Cosmetic preparations in powder form, such as eye shadow or blush, have been known for centuries. “Cast powders” are those products which are obtained by mixing a solid particulate phase with a binder (generally a fatty phase) to obtain a fluid paste in a solvent, the fluid paste being poured into suitable containers (crucible) and then the solvent evaporates (compact powder). The advantages of cast powders lie, on the one hand, in the possibility of introducing various ingredients into the preparation thanks to the selection of a suitable solvent, and, on the other hand, in the freedom to choose the shape and material of the crucible, which allows the production of numerous end products.
Kosmetische oder dermatologische Puder könne lose oder fest vorliegen. Feste Puder können gepresst oder gegossen sein. Gegossene Puder weisen gegenüber gepressten Pudern zahlreiche Vorteile auf: Es kommt bei der Abfüllung nicht zu Staubentwicklung, die Form, in die gegossen wird kann frei gewählt werden, es muss nicht entformt werden.Cosmetic or dermatological powders can be loose or solid. Solid powders can be pressed or cast. Cast powders have numerous advantages over pressed powders: There is no dust formation during filling, the shape into which it is poured can be freely chosen, and it does not have to be demoulded.
Der Stand der Technik kennt gepresste Gesichtspuder oder Rouge, die zumeist ölgebunden sind. Zur Herstellung werden Pigmente mit Talkum vermischt, homogenisiert und mit beispielsweise 4,5% Ölen vermischt. Als Öl kann beispielsweise Paraffinöl, Silikonöl oder gleich wirkendes verwendet werden. Diese Pudermischung wird anschließend in Metallpfännchen gepresst und in eine Puderdose eingebracht. Rouge-Produkte können auch bei Verwendung von Ethylen/Acrylat- bzw. Vinyliden-Copolymeren und bestimmten Ölen bei 75°C in entsprechende Behältnisse gegossen werden (Umbach: Kosmetik, Stuttgart: Thieme, 1995).The state of the art knows pressed face powder or rouge, which are mostly oil-based. To produce it, pigments are mixed with talc, homogenized and mixed with, for example, 4.5% oils. For example, paraffin oil, silicone oil or something similar can be used as oil. This powder mixture is then pressed into metal pans and placed in a powder compact. Rouge products can also be poured into appropriate containers at 75°C when using ethylene/acrylate or vinylidene copolymers and certain oils (Umbach: Kosmetik, Stuttgart: Thieme, 1995).
Festen Pudern nahekommende Zubereitungen sind Pastellkreiden. Pastellkreiden für künstlerische Zwecke bestehen aus Pigmenten und Gips oder Kreide. Gebunden werden sie mit Wasser und Gummiarabicum. Sie müssen nach dem Mischen und Formen getrocknet werden, um das Wasser aus der Zubereitung zu entfernen (F.A. Cerver: Patellmalerei, Köln: Könnemann, 1999).Preparations that come close to solid powders are pastels. Pastels for artistic purposes consist of pigments and plaster or chalk. They are bound with water and gum arabic. They must be dried after mixing and shaping to remove the water from the preparation (F.A. Cerver: Patellmalerei, Cologne: Könnemann, 1999).
Auch andere Bindemittel wurden zur Herstellung von Pastellkreiden verwendet: Haferschleim, 3% Leim oder Gelatine, 2% Gummiarabicum, abgerahmte Milch, verdünnte Temperaemulsionen, insbesondere Wachsemulsionen, Tragantgummi. Zusätze von Honig oder Kandis wurden ebenfalls verwendet, dienten vorwiegend der Verminderung der Sprödigkeit der fertigen Kreide (M. Doerner: Malmaterial, 19. Auflage, Berlin: Urania, 2001).Other binders were also used to make pastels: gruel, 3% glue or gelatin, 2% gum arabic, skimmed milk, diluted tempera emulsions, especially wax emulsions, gum tragacanth. Additions of honey or rock candy were also used, primarily to reduce the brittleness of the finished chalk (M. Doerner: Malmaterial, 19th edition, Berlin: Urania, 2001).
In den Zubereitungen gemäß der Erfindung werden erfindungsgemäße Pigmentkombinationen in Konzentrationen von 0,5 bis 15 Gew.-%, bezogen auf den Reingehalt der jeweiligen Pigmente und das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen. Bevorzugt liegen die erfindungsgemäßen Pigmentkombinationen in Konzentrationen von 0,5 bis 15 Gew.-%,In the preparations according to the invention, pigment combinations according to the invention are used in concentrations of 0.5 to 15% by weight, based on the pure content of the respective pigments and the total weight of the preparations. The pigment combinations according to the invention are preferably in concentrations of 0.5 to 15% by weight,
Es ist erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft, wenn die erfindungsgemäße Zubereitung Puderrohstoffe in einer Gesamtmenge von 0.01% bis Gewichts-10%, und bevorzugt in einer Konzentration von 0.1% bis Gewichts-1%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung enthalten.It is advantageous according to the invention if the preparation according to the invention contains powder raw materials in a total amount of 0.01% to 10% by weight, and preferably in a concentration of 0.1% to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
Es ist erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft, wenn die Puderrohstoffe eine mittlere Teilchengröße von 1 bis 100 µm, und erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt, wenn die Puderrohstoffe eine mittlere Teilchengröße von 10-50 µm aufweisen.It is advantageous according to the invention if the powder raw materials have an average particle size of 1 to 100 μm, and preferred according to the invention if the powder raw materials have an average particle size of 10-50 μm.
Die erfindungsgemäße Teilchengröße wird dabei mit dem folgenden Messverfahren bestimmt: Laserlichtstreuung und/oder dynamische Lichtstreuung.The particle size according to the invention is determined using the following measuring method: laser light scattering and/or dynamic light scattering.
Es ist erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft, wenn die Puderrohstoffe gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der Verbindungen Lauroyllysin, Nylon-12, Polymethylsilsesquioxan, Tapiokastärke, Natriumoctenylsuccinatstärke (INCI: sodium starch octenylsuccinate), Aluminiumoctenylsuccinatstärke (INCI: Aluminium starch octenylsuccinate), Distärkephosphat (INCI: Distarch Phosphate), Nylon 6/12, Mica, Silica, Talcum, mikrokristalline Cellulose, Kaolin.It is advantageous according to the invention if the powder raw materials are selected from the group of compounds lauroyl lysine, nylon-12, polymethylsilsesquioxane, tapioca starch, sodium octenyl succinate starch (INCI: sodium starch octenyl succinate), aluminum octenyl succinate starch (INCI: aluminum starch octenyl succinate), distarch phosphate (INCI: distarch phosphate) , Nylon 6/12, Mica, Silica, Talcum, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Kaolin.
Ferner ist vorteilhaft, wenn die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen weitere Metallpigmente, zusätzlich zu den erfindungsgemäßen, enthalten. Die Metallpigmente, bevorzugt Titandioxid und/oder Zinkoxid, können vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung auch in Form kommerziell erhältlicher öliger oder wäßriger Vordispersionen zur Anwendung kommen. Diesen Vordispersionen können vorteilhaft Dispergierhilfsmittel und/oder Solubilisationsvermittler zugesetzt sein.Furthermore, it is advantageous if the preparations according to the invention contain further metal pigments in addition to those according to the invention. The metal pigments, preferably titanium dioxide and/or zinc oxide, can advantageously also be used in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions for the purposes of the present invention. Dispersing aids and/or solubilization agents can advantageously be added to these predispersions.
Die Metallpigmente (Titandioxid, Zinkoxid) können erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft oberflächlich behandelt („gecoatet“) sein, wobei beispielsweise ein hydrophiler, amphiphiler oder hydrophober Charakter gebildet werden bzw. erhalten bleiben soll. Diese Oberflächenbehandlung kann darin bestehen, dass die Pigmente nach an sich bekannten Verfahren mit einer dünnen hydrophilen und/oder hydrophoben anorganischen und/oder organischen Schicht versehen werden. Die verschiedenen Oberflächenbeschichtungen können im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung auch Wasser enthalten.According to the invention, the metal pigments (titanium dioxide, zinc oxide) can advantageously be surface-treated (“coated”), for example a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character should be formed or retained. This surface treatment can consist of providing the pigments with a thin hydrophilic and/or hydrophobic inorganic and/or organic layer using methods known per se. For the purposes of the present invention, the various surface coatings can also contain water.
Die erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen und/oder dermatologischen Formulierungen können wie üblich zusammengesetzt sein und insbesondere zur Behandlung und der Pflege der Haut und/oder der Haare nach einem Sonnenbad und als Schminkprodukt in der dekorativen Kosmetik dienen. Entsprechend können die erfindungsgemäßen Formulierungen - je nach ihrem Aufbau - beispielsweise verwendet werden als Hautschutzcreme, Reinigungsmilch, Sonnenschutzlotion, Nährcreme, Tages- oder Nachtcreme usw. Es ist gegebenenfalls möglich und vorteilhaft, die erfindungsgemäßen Formulierungen als Grundlage für pharmazeutische Formulierungen zu verwenden.The cosmetic and/or dermatological formulations according to the invention can be composed as usual and can be used in particular for the treatment and care of the skin and/or hair after sunbathing and as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics. Accordingly, the formulations according to the invention - depending on their structure - can be used, for example, as a skin protection cream, cleansing milk, sun protection lotion, nutritional cream, day or night cream, etc. It may be possible and advantageous to use the formulations according to the invention as a basis for pharmaceutical formulations.
Zur Anwendung werden die erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen und dermatologischen Formulierungen in der für Kosmetika üblichen Weise auf die Haut und/oder die Haare in ausreichender Menge aufgebracht.For use, the cosmetic and dermatological formulations according to the invention are applied to the skin and/or hair in sufficient quantities in the usual manner for cosmetics.
Die erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen und dermatologischen Formulierungen können kosmetische Hilfsstoffe enthalten, wie sie üblicherweise in solchen Zubereitungen verwendet werden, z. B. Konservierungsmittel, Bakterizide, Parfüme, Substanzen zum Verhindern des Schäumens, Farbstoffe, Pigmente, die eine färbende Wirkung haben, Verdickungsmittel, anfeuchtende und/oder feuchhaltende Substanzen, Fette, Öle, Wachse oder andere übliche Bestandteile einer kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Formulierung wie Alkohole, Polyole, Polymere, Schaumstabilisatoren, Elektrolyte, organische Lösungsmittel und/oder Silikonderivate sowie Moisturizer.The cosmetic and dermatological formulations according to the invention can contain cosmetic auxiliaries such as those commonly used in such preparations, e.g. B. preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, substances to prevent foaming, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, moistening and/or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, Polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents and/or silicone derivatives as well as moisturizers.
Als Moisturizer werden Stoffe oder Stoffgemische bezeichnet, welche kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen die Eigenschaft verleihen, nach dem Auftragen bzw. Verteilen auf der Hautoberfläche die Feuchtigkeitsabgabe der Hornschicht (auch transepidermal water loss (TEWL) genannt) zu reduzieren und/oder die Hydratation der Hornschicht positiv zu beeinflussen.Moisturizers are substances or mixtures of substances which give cosmetic or dermatological preparations the property of reducing the moisture release of the stratum corneum (also called transepidermal water loss (TEWL)) after application or distribution on the skin surface and/or positively increasing the hydration of the stratum corneum to influence.
Vorteilhafte Moisturizer im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind beispielsweise Glycerin, Milchsäure, Pyrrolidoncarbonsäure und Harnstoff. Ferner ist es insbesondere von Vorteil, polymere Moisturizer aus der Gruppe der wasserlöslichen und/oder in Wasser quellbaren und/oder mit Hilfe von Wasser gelierbaren Polysaccharide zu verwenden. Insbesondere vorteilhaft ist beispielsweise Hyaluronsäure.Advantageous moisturizers in the context of the present invention are, for example, glycerin, lactic acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid and urea. Furthermore, it is particularly advantageous to use polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and/or water-swellable and/or water-gellatable polysaccharides. Hyaluronic acid, for example, is particularly advantageous.
Die jeweils einzusetzenden Mengen an kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Hilfs- und Trägerstoffen und Parfüm können in Abhängigkeit von der Art des jeweiligen Produktes vom Fachmann durch einfaches Ausprobieren leicht ermittelt werden.The amounts of cosmetic or dermatological auxiliaries and carriers and perfume to be used can be easily determined by a person skilled in the art by simply trying them out, depending on the type of product in question.
Ein zusätzlicher Gehalt an Antioxidantien ist im Allgemeinen bevorzugt. Erfindungsgemäß können als günstige Antioxidantien alle für kosmetische und/oder dermatologische Anwendungen geeigneten oder gebräuchlichen Antioxidantien verwendet werden.Additional antioxidant content is generally preferred. According to the invention, all antioxidants suitable or common for cosmetic and/or dermatological applications can be used as favorable antioxidants.
Vorteilhaft werden die Antioxidantien gewählt aus der Gruppe bestehend aus Aminosäuren (z. B. Glycin, Histidin, Tyrosin, Tryptophan) und deren Derivate, Imidazole (z. B. Urocaninsäure) und deren Derivate, Peptide wie D,L-Camosin, D-Carnosin, L-Carnosin und deren Derivate (z. B. Anserin), Carotinoide, Carotine (z. B. α-Carotin, β-Carotin, Lycopin) und deren Derivate, Chlorogensäure und deren Derivate, Liponsäure und deren Derivate (z. B. Dihydroliponsäure), Aurothioglucose, Propylthiouracil und andere Thiole (z. B. Thioredoxin, Glutathion, Cystein, Cystin, Cystamin und deren Glycosyl-, N-Acetyi-, Methyl-, Ethyl-, Propyl-, Amyl-, Butyl- und Lauryl-, Palmitoyl-, Oleyl-, γ-Linoleyl-, Cholesteryl- und Glycerylester) sowie deren Salze, Dilaurylthiodipropionat, Distearylthiodipropionat, Thiodipropionsäure und deren Derivate (Ester, Ether, Peptide, Lipide, Nukleotide, Nukleoside und Salze) sowie Sulfoximinverbindungen (z. B. Buthioninsulfoximine, Homocysteinsulfoximin, Buthioninsulfone, Penta-, Hexa-, Heptathioninsulfoximin) in sehr geringen verträglichen Dosierungen (z. B. pmol bis µmol/kg), ferner (Metall)-Chelatoren (z. B. α- Hydroxyfettsäuren, Palmitinsäure, Phytinsäure, Lactoferrin), α-Hydroxysäuren (z. B. Citronensäure, Milchsäure, Apfelsäure), Huminsäure, Gallensäure, Gallenextrakte, Bilirubin, Biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA und deren Derivate, ungesättigte Fettsäuren und deren Derivate (z. B. γ- Linolensäure, Linolsäure, Ölsäure), Folsäure und deren Derivate, Ubichinon und Ubichinol und deren Derivate, Vitamin C und Derivate (z. B. Ascorbylpalmitat, Mg-Ascorbylphosphat, Ascorbylacetat), Tocopherole und Derivate (z. B. Vitamin-E-acetat), Vitamin A und Derivate (Vitamin-A- palmitat) sowie Koniferylbenzoat des Benzoeharzes, Rutinsäure und deren Derivate, α-Glycosylrutin, Ferulasäure, Furfurylidenglucitol, Camosin, Butylhydroxytoluol, Butylhydroxyanisol, Nordihydroguajakharzsäure, Nordihydroguajaretsäure, Trihydroxybutyrophenon, Hamsäure und deren Derivate, Mannose und deren Derivate, Zink und dessen Derivate (z. B. ZnO, ZnSO4) Selen und dessen Derivate (z. B. Selenmethionin), Stilbene und deren Derivate (z. B. Stilbenoxid, Trans-Stilbenoxid) und die erfindungsgemäß geeigneten Derivate (Salze, Ester, Ether, Zucker, Nukleotide, Nukleoside, Peptide und Lipide) dieser genannten Wirkstoffe.The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-camosin, D- Carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives ( e.g. dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl - and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) as well as their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well Sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthionine sulfoximine, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfone, penta-, hexa-, heptathionine sulfoximine) in very low tolerated doses (e.g. B. pmol to µmol/kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, Bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and Derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg-ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) as well as coniferyl benzoate of benzoin resin, rutic acid and its derivatives , α-glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, camosin, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiac acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, hamic acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO4), selenium and its derivatives ( e.g. B. selenomethionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (e.g. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients mentioned.
Die Menge der vorgenannten Antioxidantien (eine oder mehrere Verbindungen) in den Emulsionen beträgt vorzugsweise 0,001 bis 30 Gew.- %, besonders bevorzugt 0,05 bis 20 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,1 bis 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung.The amount of the aforementioned antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the emulsions is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on Total weight of the preparation.
Sofern Vitamin E und/oder dessen Derivate das oder die Antioxidantien darstellen, ist vorteilhaft, deren jeweilige Konzentrationen aus dem Bereich von 0,001 bis 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Formulierung, zu wählen.If vitamin E and/or its derivatives represent the antioxidant(s), it is advantageous to select their respective concentrations from the range of 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.
Sofern Vitamin A, bzw. Vitamin-A-Derivate, bzw. Carotine bzw. deren Derivate das oder die Antioxidantien darstellen, ist vorteilhaft, deren jeweilige Konzentrationen aus dem Bereich von 0,001 bis 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Formulierung, zu wählen.If vitamin A, or vitamin A derivatives, or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant(s), it is advantageous for their respective concentrations to be in the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation, to choose.
Die Lipidphase kann vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus folgender Substanzgruppe: - Mineralöle, Mineralwachse - Öle, wie Triglyceride der Caprin- oder der Caprylsäure, ferner natürliche Öle wie z. B. Rizinusöl; - Fette, Wachse und andere natürliche und synthetische Fettkörper, vorzugsweise Ester von Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen niedriger C-Zahl, z. B. mit Isopropanol, Propylenglykol oder Glycerin, oder Ester von Fettalkoholen mit Alkansäuren niedriger C-Zahl oder mit Fettsäuren; - Alkylbenzoate; - Silikonöle wie Dimethylpolysiloxane, Diethylpolysiloxane, Diphenylpolysiloxane sowie Mischformen daraus.The lipid phase can advantageously be chosen from the following group of substances: - mineral oils, mineral waxes - oils such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, as well as natural oils such as. B. Castor oil; - Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies, preferably esters of fatty acids with low C number alcohols, e.g. B. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerin, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids with a low carbon number or with fatty acids; - alkyl benzoates; - Silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixtures thereof.
Die Ölphase der Emulsionen, Oleogele bzw. Hydrodispersionen oder Lipodispersionen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung wird vorteilhaft gewählt aus der Gruppe der Ester aus gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 3 bis 30 C-Atomen und gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 3 bis 30 C- Atomen, aus der Gruppe der Ester aus aromatischen Carbonsäuren und gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 3 bis 30 C-Atomen. Solche Esteröle können dann vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe Isopropylmyristat, Isopropylpalmitat, Isopropylstearat, Isopropyloleat, n- Butylstearat, n-Hexyllaurat, n-Decyloleat, Isooctylstearat, Isononylstearat, Isononylisononanoat, 2-Ethylhexylpalmitat, 2-Ethylhexyllaurat, 2-Hexyldecylstearat, 2-Octyldodecylpalmitat, Oleyloleat, Oleylerucat, Erucyloleat, Erucylerucat sowie synthetische, halbsynthetische und natürliche Gemische solcher Ester, z. B. Jojobaöl.The oil phase of the emulsions, oleogels or hydrodispersions or lipodispersions in the context of the present invention is advantageously selected from the group of esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and/or or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols of a chain length from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-H exyldecyl stearate, 2- Octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl rucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl rucate and synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, e.g. B. Jojoba oil.
Ferner kann die Ölphase vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der verzweigten und unverzweigten Kohlenwasserstoffe und -wachse, der Silkonöle, der Dialkylether, der Gruppe der gesättigten oder ungesättigten, verzweigten oder unverzweigten Alkohole, sowie der Fettsäuretriglyceride, namentlich der Triglycerinester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 24, insbesondere 12 bis 18 C-Atomen. Die Fettsäuretriglyceride können beispielsweise vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der synthetischen, halbsynthetischen und natürlichen Öle, z. B. Olivenöl, Sonnenblumenöl, Sojaöl, Erdnußöl, Rapsöl, Mandelöl, Palmöl, Kokosöl, Palmkernöl und dergleichen mehr.Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be chosen from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, as well as the fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18, carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, be advantageously chosen from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, e.g. B. olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.
Auch beliebige Abmischungen solcher Öl- und Wachskomponenten sind vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung einzusetzen. Es kann auch gegebenenfalls vorteilhaft sein, Wachse, beispielsweise Cetylpalmitat, als alleinige Lipidkomponente der Ölphase einzusetzen.Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously in the sense of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.
Vorteilhaft wird die Ölphase gewählt aus der Gruppe 2-Ethylhexylisostearat, Octyldodecanol, Isotridecylisononanoat, Isoeicosan, 2- Ethylhexylcocoat, C12-15-Alkylbenzoat, Capryl-Caprinsäuretriglycerid, Dicaprylylether.The oil phase is advantageously selected from the group 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.
Besonders vorteilhaft sind Mischungen aus C12-15-Alkylbenzoat und 2-Ethylhexylisostearat, Mischungen aus C12-15-Alkylbenzoat und Isotridecylisononanoat sowie Mischungen aus C12-15-Alkylbenzoat, 2-Ethylhexylisostearat und Isotridecylisononanoat.Mixtures of C12-15 alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C12-15 alkyl benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of C12-15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate are particularly advantageous.
Von den Kohlenwasserstoffen sind Paraffinöl, Squalan und Squalen vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung zu verwenden.Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene can be used advantageously in the context of the present invention.
Vorteilhaft kann die Ölphase ferner einen Gehalt an cyclischen oder linearen Silikonölen aufweisen oder vollständig aus solchen Ölen bestehen, wobei allerdings bevorzugt wird, außer dem Silikonöl oder den Silikonölen einen zusätzlichen Gehalt an anderen Ölphasenkomponenten zu verwenden.Advantageously, the oil phase can also contain cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or silicone oils.
Vorteilhaft wird Cyclomethicon (Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxan) als erfindungsgemäß zu verwendendes Silikonöl eingesetzt. Aber auch andere Silikonöle sind vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung zu verwenden, beispielsweise Hexamethylcyclotrisiloxan, Polydimethylsiloxan, Poly(methylphenylsiloxan).Cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is advantageously used as the silicone oil to be used according to the invention. But other silicone oils can also be used advantageously in the context of the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly(methylphenylsiloxane).
Die wässrige Phase der erfindungsgemäßen Formulierungen enthält gegebenenfalls vorteilhaft - Alkohole, Diole oder Polyole niedriger C-Zahl, sowie deren Ether, vorzugsweise Ethanol, Isopropanol, Propylenglykol, Glycerin, Ethylenglykol, Ethylenglykolmonoethyl- oder - monobutylether, Propylenglykolmonomethyl, -monoethyl- oder - monobutylether, Diethylenglykolmonomethyl- oder -monoethylether und analoge Produkte, ferner Alkohole niedriger C-Zahl, z. B. Ethanol, Isopropanol, 1,2-Propandiol, Glycerin sowie insbesondere ein oder mehrere Verdickungsmittel, welches oder welche vorteilhaft gewählt werden können aus der Gruppe Siliciumdioxid, Aluminiumsilikate, Polysaccharide bzw. deren Derivate, z. B. Xanthangummi und/oder Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, jeweils einzeln oder in Kombination.The aqueous phase of the formulations according to the invention optionally advantageously contains alcohols, diols or polyols with a low C number, as well as their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerin, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, Diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products, as well as alcohols with a low C number, e.g. B. ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol and in particular one or more thickeners, which or which can advantageously be selected from the group of silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, e.g. B. xanthan gum and / or hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, each individually or in combination.
Die nachfolgenden Beispiele sollen die vorliegende Erfindung verdeutlichen, ohne sie einzuschränken. Alle Mengenangaben, Anteile und Prozentanteile sind, soweit nicht anders angegeben, auf das Gewicht und die Gesamtmenge bzw. auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen bezogen. Beispiel 1
ZITATE ENTHALTEN IN DER BESCHREIBUNGQUOTES INCLUDED IN THE DESCRIPTION
Diese Liste der vom Anmelder aufgeführten Dokumente wurde automatisiert erzeugt und ist ausschließlich zur besseren Information des Lesers aufgenommen. Die Liste ist nicht Bestandteil der deutschen Patent- bzw. Gebrauchsmusteranmeldung. Das DPMA übernimmt keinerlei Haftung für etwaige Fehler oder Auslassungen.This list of documents listed by the applicant was generated automatically and is included solely for the better information of the reader. The list is not part of the German patent or utility model application. The DPMA assumes no liability for any errors or omissions.
Zitierte PatentliteraturCited patent literature
- WO 9525499 [0030]WO 9525499 [0030]
- US 6395301 [0030]US 6395301 [0030]
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